ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2022
- #Landrover #LandroverDiscovery #LR3
After 6 years we realized that we ran the wrong type of oil for 6 years, since we own our Land Rover Discovery 3. In this video we explain the details how we selected now the correct oil - hopefully.
Enjoy the video and thanks for watching.
Vera & Christian from LR Time
The oil we selected is the Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 C3 (DPF) which had the best price at the time we made this video.
Alternatively, there is also the Magnatec 5W-40 B3 for cars without DPF.
For the LR4 with DPF, the 5W40 C4 is also usable.
Stay away from ACEA A5/B5, C1, C2 and C5 clasified oils.
In any case, we are not liable for any vehicle damage. Use our recommendation at your own risk and do your own research. ,
We are not liable for any harm you do to your car, your engine, your surroundings or to yourself. Use the information given in this video at your own risk. The videos we provide are primarily for entertainment and not to be used as instructions. Any products and spare parts we use in our videos are chosen by us and not provided by any sponsors. We do not recommend the parts we use in our videos as we mostly use Aftermarket low-cost brands due to cost.
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/ lrtime - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Best quote of the day "And i need content for my videos and luckily Land Rover never lets you down". That was a 100% LOL moment! Thanks!
This is without doubt,hands down, the best car video channel on the net 👍🏿. I don’t have a LR, but I do have a Toyota and a Merc, and these stories are still so interesting and the banter between you two is irrepressible. I’m a huge fan now after 5 videos, keep up the good work, regards from Oz 🇦🇺
😀🙏🙋♀️
watching Sunday Church again
My friend, you have in Germany one of the best oils, Ravenol. I made a huge research to compare oils, and Castrol is, at max, common oil. Ravenol had way best performance in that engine.
Hi guys, I really have a lot of fun watching you. So much info in a so lightweight way and always so funny and so happy. Congrats from Brazil and keep doing your amazing job! 👏
Cheers for content - I vaguely remember doing the same research years ago and settling on Penrite HPR5 (might be hard to get in sunny Germany). It seems to cover all the bases but, like always, you roll the dice, you take your chances. Thanks again!
Hello from from Slovakia
What a gem channel so much information so many constructive comments what a comunity
You sir deserve a medal and a lot more subscribers than what you have currently
Thank you for all your hard work 💪
I was concerned that the LR engine runs at such low oil pressure, then I checked what my Toyota should be and it's only 2.2 bar although Toyotas don't have oil pressure gauges so I don't have to worry until the red light comes on. Oil specification is also critical with my Landcruiser, it recommends anything that's been in the ground more than 2 million years. 😅 looking forward Vera's engine rebuild.
OMG! Just when I thought I was getting to understand what 5W30 means. Now I learn that it is not enough, I have to learn about ACEA ratings.
Hello guys, great information about oil change. I had the same problem with my 2010 LR4, you can't trust these internet sites without doing a little research and following the owner manual. OMG, love the videos, stay safe.
Ah, I know this too. Owners manual knows best. I have old French car and manual says 15w40. All the internet sites say 5w40 (preferred). When i bought the car (10 years ago) it was always smoking a bit. (In the history papers of the car was stated also that they were putting in 5w40 and sometimes10w40.) I drive a long time now with 15w40 and smoking is long gone and engine sounds still healthy. Car is 30+ years now.
Christian was on fire with his repartee and ably supported by Vera with her corrections and OMGs. Great detective work regarding the proper oils etc. The finishing off with wall papering techniques showed your range of skills. Your episodes never disappoint! Thanks. 👍🏻🙏🦘
Great explanation on the oil, I am off to check mine right now, thanks Vera and Christian
A standard oil filter can only go down to a specific micron size that it can catch and all the smaller stuff gets through. That smaller stuff acts as an abrasive. What I do it put 3 bar magnets of similar size to the oil filter around it so that all those particles stick to the inside. You'd be really surprised how much actually collects where they are!
bit like a fernox filter? good point
I absolutely love what you guys are doing, it's like myth busters for broken krank guessing. love the madness in the method🤪
So much detail and laughter, love it
I have not finished watching the video but I was compelled to comment. I do not know if this is the longest lecture on oil but its the best. Thanks.
This is great, I never knew you could have so much fun and so many OMG's changing the oil and filter. Being a Toyota owner I find your programmes fascinating. I watched it right to the very end! That was a great idea too to put the strong magnet in the sump. I had several VW Beatles and they had a magnetic sump plug, no filter just the magnetic plug. My first Beatle was a 1960 model, really reliable too! Keep on keeping on. When you going to get a Range Rover? They are a lot of fun too.
Thanks. This Sunday will be a interesting storry too. Including Toyota jokes as well. And lost of Aussi references. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian Japanese engines including Toyota, Yanmar, are the most reliable and bulletproof diesel engines ever, you could use oils like quaker state, valvoline, duckhams, Castrol, motul, these oils will never cause any damage to these engines
IMO the 1960s Beatles were the best. ;)
Hi from New Zealand, love the videos a great source of information keep em coming. In my diesel engine maintenance career we would always pull an oil sample as well as complete a "flo stick" test to check for fuel dilution in the lube oil as a small amount of fuel dilution can adversely effect oil viscosity and hence oil pressure, would be interesting to see the result from a flo stick test with the oil from the engine in this video.
You have a great channel I cannot believe you did not notice this you are one of the most thorough people I know and a very clever man , and your wife is lovely
Yes, should have noticed this before but I simply did not even considder that the oil-finder website are so unreliable. Really shocking. Almost destroit our engine this way. Christian
What a great video, you guys are so invested in this and these vehicles, at least you know they have issues.
Hi Christian, you are doing well to change to 5W40. This engine has a conceptional problem and the crankschaft bearings are too small. The engine was constructed for a sedan and east/west mounting. So it had to be as short as possible.
The most critical of the bearing is the idle, especially at high temperature. So to get more reserve against seized bearings and snapped crankshaft, you have to maintain the viscosity of the oil in idle at high temp. as high as possible.
A good HtHs value is also positive. You can take the titanium edge 5W40 C3 oil. But as you dont have a particle filter you can use also the mobil1 peak life 5W50. You would experience a little bit more fuel consumption, but its the best one. Not only for your crankshaft but also for not koking the turbo bearings. Thats not coming from me, but from OEM colleagues.
I used the 5W50 in a 190 HP TD5 Defender with variable turbo and I had never problems.
5W30 is a marketing measure to get CO2 value down and you certifie your engine with this oil when you launch it into the market. That enables you to make PR in the showroom with low CO2 values. But its very critical close to the limit. Especially when the engine is old or you had a hihg number of DPF regenerations.
5W40 is better, 5W50 the best. You can see it easily on the pressure of your oil pump. Inside the bearing its different, but its increase mathematically the width of your bearing surface and therefore decreases the stress in idle at high temperature.
Good luck!
@michael this is good information, but I'm trying to work out that it's a choice between trying to preserve/ extend the life of your crankshaft & bearings by going up to 5W/40 or even 50 - vs - keeping the DPF happy. If I go up to 5w/40 or 50 will it croak my DPF? as the current 5W/30 is low SAPS designed to work with the DPF. Cheers.
@@tyronemessiah4479 Hi Tyrone, for the DPF its important to choose an oil with low ashes. The ashes in the DPF are increasing accumulative during the life cycle of the DPF. They dont quit with the regeneration. Pay attention to the abreviation "C3". This indicates a still tolerable ash content of the engine oil for engines equipped with DPF. The highest viscosity I found in synthetic oils not passing the C3 specs is the 5W40 edge turbo diesel from castrol. on 5W30 oils you may find lower ashes but its cheap (300 Eur?) to bring your exhaust equipment with a clogged DPF to a special company which burns also the ashes out of your DPF. And then, if not damaged before, its like new. You should then reset your regeneration algorithm! with a diagnose tool. Its much more expensive to buy a new engine. The weakest point of your engine seems to be the width of the bearings. And this can only be partly compensed by using a higher viscosity. Keep in mind that you have a lubrification gap between Crankshaft and bearing. on the outer sides the dynamic oil pressure is 0 because the oil escapes into atmosphere, towards the oil pan. the bigger the gap, the thinner the oil, the smaller is the real usable bearing width which has to withstand the forces. So the only parameter you can influence is the oil viscosity. The influence is not marginal! Cheers
Just one more remark: The higher viscosity of the engine oil does not only benefit the dynamic lubrification principle and the load on the bearings, it also increases the oil pressure in idle and therefore the supply of the bearings. It works against the natural worn of the oil pump and the lower thickness of the oil in idle and high temperatures. The weakest moment in your lubrification circuit which may damage your bearing is after a hot engine run on the motorway going into idle, i.e. stopping at a gas station etc. From studies I know that the supply pressure after the oil pump can drop down to 0.4 bar without damaging the engine in idle. But a study is not always representative for all engines. And an oil pressure after the oil pump is varying in each position of the lub circuit.
Mine doesn't have a DPF so what 5w40 should I get ? The Magnatec C3 or B3 ?
I'm actually using the Motul 913D A5/B4 and I don't have any sound like this at idle.. any thoughts ?
@@raph4013 Hi Ralph, I am not an engine Guru. But what I know is that the C Spec is only qualifying the modern diesel engines with Exhaust afttertreatment regarding ashes and sulphur, but at the same times accepting disadvantages regarding low friction chemicals, causing partly these ashes which may clogg the DPF. C is only a matter when you have DPF or CatCon.
The noise on Veras LR3 sounds more like a leakage of the exhaust manifold, which is common on this engine. This may vary with the engine temperature. The low frequence of the noise sound like one cylinder in combustion mode and leaking through the manifold gasket.
Go for synthetic oil, not lower than 40, Diesel spec. Go for an oil with HtHs above 3.5 cP. If you find something with a Viscosity of 50, it wont harm, it only stays "stiffer" at higher oil temperature meanwhile the 30 is like water at that temperature. So go for (0-5) W(40-50), HTHS >3,5 cP, B3 Spec w/o DPF (C3 in case of DPF). Change it after 10.000 km.
For the DPF guys only: Your oil is getting diluted by each DPF regeneration. The Diesel fuel doesnt evaporate! So change your oil frequently when doing short trips only or slow driving in mild climatic conditions. The regeneration intervall is going from 1000 km when normal driving to 3500 km when towing only, even at slow speed. The reason is that at higher loads, as in case of towing, the egr is being closed and you have reduced particles passing the DPF. At the same time, being above 350 Centi Degrees, the DPF is self regenerating a certain amount of the filtered particles. When you have a Diagnosis tool you can see how the driving style is influencing the Regeneration frequency. But thats only important for the DPF vehicles. If you dont have a DPF you have none of these problems.
This time I joined the "oh, my God" chorus when I saw you finding those metal pieces! While an engine rebuild is interesting to watch, I hope it doesn't come to that in this case.
Good luck, and Happy Easter! 🐰🥚
I have a Subaru and made it to the end of the video too. I remember owning Volvo S60R and constantly doing research and repairs. This video reminded me of those times.
Your version of OMG is one of the best heard.
Subscribed.
Thanks. Subaru is popular here as well but they are expensive and thirsty. Thanks for subscribing. Christian
Just love your posts, don’t change and don’t stop posting, it’s a love hate relationship with our discos but wouldn’t be without them
Interesting video and always good to pickup on the original specification. I run a diverse fleet of road vehicles, construction machines, agricultural tractors, air cooled commercial lawn mowers, two stroke strimmers, etc, etc. Fortunately there is a small oil manufacturer in the UK called Morris Lubricants and they have a really good technical department. I am extremely careful to use the correct oils and always start with the manufacturer's specification. I have found that Morris has discontinued oils recommended for my 2004 Discovery II and replaced with a very recently developed oil. Morris has made the point that modern oils can be totally unsuitable for very old engines as it is possible to over specify oils. However I don't think that it is correct to say that just because an oil was developed after an engine that it cannot possibly be suitable oil. Oil manufacturers are extremely knowledgeable and if they recommend a modern oil for a very old vehicle then you can be confident (if you double check with them) that it is a very suitable oil. But I agree with the thrust of your video that most people fail to take sufficient care with specifying their oil relative to the manufacturer's specification. Something else that I have found worthwhile is regularly changing the coolant with a suitable high specification anti freeze and using bottled spring water instead of tap water if you live in a hard water area e.g. the South East of Olde England !
I watched the “worst engine ever built” vid before this one, really good and made so much sense especially the cross drilled crank oil supply issues. I was expecting a reasonable increase in oil pressure at higher revs but not that much, what was the oil pressure at idle with 5w40? I’ll be switching to 5w40 shortly. By the way the constant Toyota and Mercedes quips had me roaring! 🤣 Great work guys thank you.
Today I also changed to 5W-40 C3, and it is immediately more quiet. Thnx for all the effort all the hours of LR fun and entertainment! Keep up the good work. 👍👍
💪👍🙋♀️Vera
Love your videos guys, always make me chuckle. Thanks so much.
Great content. I was in the same position. I drive a Mitsubishi Lancer Cedia with a 2.0L 4G94 engine. Recommended oil is 10W-30 API SJ/+. Last year I filled 5W-30 Idemitsu fully synthetic A5/B5 C2 oil. Within 4 months and 4000 km, I could hear a knocking noise at cold start for the first few seconds. I researched a lot like you and came to the conclusion that I did a mistake by just selecting the oil based on nearby viscosity (10W-30 was not available in full synthetic) and not focusing on API/ACEA classifications. Last month I changed the oil to 5W-40 Mobil Super fully synthetic API SN+, ACEA A3/B4. Thereafter I could feel an immediate improvement in that cold start knocking noise. It really worked. It's sad that car manufacturers are trading off engine longevity for fuel economy and emissions targets. These classifications should be represented more clearly to a common person.
I think your conclusion in regard to the manufacturer is dead accurate 👍. Christian
Good to know that the change improved the oil pressure. I recently used an oil manufacturer's website to see what gear box oil my auto D3 needed and it gave me a completely wrong specification. I hope the engine continues to give you reliable service and doesn't let you down. This should make you laugh. I went to change the gearbox oil yesterday on the back of your video and before my trip to Norway next week. When I took the skid pan off to drain the oil the replacement metal sump pan on the auto box, fitted for the previous owner, didn't have a drain plug fitted in it. As such no way of draining the oil 😱 OMG OMG was the first thing I said 🤣 see you next Sun and I will be watching from my DFDS cabin on route to Amsterdam from Scotland via Newcastle 😁
My automatic also has no drain plug. You can still drain the oil by removing the pan, which you have to do anyway to change the filter and replace the mechatronic sleeve, so long as you can get all the tech screws out.
Love your attention to detail! Great videos - thanks.
thanks for this deep talk about the correct oil! will help me with my oil change coming soon ☀️
Cheers, Christian and Vera! Sorry to hear about the metal particles. Hope it won't be all kaput too soon. Mine was still OK at the last oil change, now at 230k km. I also switched to 5W40 since last year, and all is fine, knock wood.
We should have done this much earlier too. I ordered now 4W40 for our LR4 as well. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian 4W40 or 5W40?
I use the cheapest 5w30 from Asda and on a few occasions Iv used 5w40 £20 for 5L had the car 12 years now a still sound like new 2 changes a year great video 👍ps Iv cut the skid plate so I can access the drain plug easier and bolted a square plate over that
see this was what I used to do, every time they had an offer on oil I would buy some and it didn't do any harm.
Great video. Very informative about the oil and very humorous presentation. I love the interaction between you 2 very funny👍
Love your channel. So much fun watching!! All the way from Australia.
Hi, as always a very interesting video , personally as I don’t have a DPF here in the UK for my D3 I’ve been using Millers XF Premium Engine Oil C1 5w30 STJLR.03.5003 and for the auto gearbox mannol AG55 , hope ur both keeping well 👍👍
If you don't have a DPF then you don't have to use an ACEA C1 oil. You can use any diesel-grade motor oil you wish.
Strange since l sold my LR 3 the only thing that isn’t drained now - is my bank balance, such a wonderful vehicle with such a rubbish engine/money pit.
Sorry for gloating again.. should have got the 4.4 V8 gas. No issues in 180k miles
Gray lettering on white background was done to save electricity (CO2). In case someone prints the webpage, they save toner and electricity. They have have saved half a ton of CO2 (the same amount of CO2 that one of the programmers exhaled in one year). Good job of exploring the surface of an issue.
@@pwatom22 that’s what I have and she has a lot of power and has been a faithful vehicle with over 180k. I feel like she’s just gotten broken in.
Let my 4.4V8 go 3 years ago,big mistake,she's comfortable into 300, 000ks now,replaced with V6SCV6,yeah,sure is nicer at the expense of a new engine,coolant hose kit(s)! Waterpump again.
V8 4.4,new blood every 10k,bullet-proof.
Well said , I’ve had all sorts of land rovers including 110’s , 90’s , Discovery’s and a Rangerover over the years , the worst was the Range Rover L322 V8 diesel which had great power but literally fell to bits over the two years of ownership which was such a shame as it was so comfortable , in the end after so many bills including one for the catastrophic destruction of both turbos whilst driving to the airport then the handbrake seized on whilst driving and burnt out the rear brakes I had it repaired and traded it in loosing thousands of pounds , I’ve been driving my little 2 litre diesel 4x4 Skoda yeti now for a couple of years and have done around 50 thousand miles with not one problem ( genuine truth 💯) , it’s unbelievable how reliable the diesel Skoda is , I know it’s not as good off roading but the usual trip in a field or a flooded area it drives faultlessly which let’s face it is probably more then most Land Rover owners do.
Yup oil selection is an absolute nightmare now and yes you need to do your own research for your own application depending on what you do with your vehicle.
I do like Castrol Magnatec too , used to use it in my 200 TDI's . I have a couple of 300TDI's now and once they're running I'll probably use it again.
Loved the Idiocracy reference with the lemonade.
I’ve seen a few comment about removing the DPF and EGR. A few years ago I had a w163 ML270 cdi. I found an interesting thread on how to build and install a really simple circuit that tricked the ecu into thinking the EGR was working. It worked beautifully. Less smoke and better fuel efficiency. I didn’t get around to this but another suggestion was to cut the top of the cat open, remove its guts, replace guts with straight pipe and then TIG the top back on. The pipe stopped resonance and the cut & shut was not visible from y set the car.
Sure something equally stealthy can be done on the crank breakers in the discovery 3 🤔
I’m planning to get a D3 soon so really enjoy your video context. Thank you and greetings from Oz.
OMG! For as much as I'd love to see another TDV6 teardown, I REALLY hope your motor is fine. But metal particles... 🤕
not to mention all the bearing particles, which are not magnetic
I think A is for gasoline engines and B is for diesel. Diesel oil requires more antiwear additives than petrol only oils, so that's what were missing from your oil that whole time. Most oils are suitable for both diesel and gasoline engines, which is why you see A3/B3, A3/B4, etc. printed on them.
Lovely Sunday content. thanks, love from England.
I am from Australia, and I have just purchased a Ford Territory 2.7 V6 turbo diesel. Thank you very much for sharing your experiences.
Thanks for this video guys, my Discovery has done 180,000 miles and it runs like a dream but on start up the length of time before the engine runs quiet (full oil pressure) has always been a bit too long imo, this video gave me the confidence to switch to 5w40 which I had been considering anyway, since then it's been less than a second as aposed to 3-4 seconds. I haven't compared with a gauge like you but I'm confident the oil pressure has improved, the engine runs quieter and smoother aswell. I love my Discovery, its a challenge to maintain but also very rewarding and a comfortable drive and serves our family well
Are you still happy you changed to 5W-40? All good with the car?
@@chrisd4642 Yes it's been running nicely and seems to reach oil pressure much quicker. Due to be changed again now and I will be continuing with 5w40
Thanks Will. I have just changed mine at 240k miles with 5W-30 C3 magnatec, but will move to 5W-40 next time - maybe I’ll do a short interval (2-3k miles). Glad to hear it’s running well 👍🏼
@@willfrench3693 there should be no difference on cold start as viscosity is the same when cold. The difference is under heavy load where 5w40 ia better
@@kize32 agreed, I wasn't talking about cold start up
I totally understand everything about the oil 'characteristics' but the differences are so small that only after several hundred thousand Toyota miles would it shorten the life of the engine? Don't beat yourself with a Birch branch and feel wrong.
Correct answer, I think...Unless oil is subjected to extremes of heat, the actual differences in the performance of oil of a certain viscosity is, indeed, small. Some brands of oil are better than others, but clean oil is nearly always better than dirty oil. Land Rover owners should use the viscosity and specification that the manufacturer recommends, change their oil regularly, and not get too fixated on the hope that somehow, somewhere, there's an undiscovered "magic oil" that can prevent their Land Rovers from being plagued with reliability issues.
Amazing information and details. Much appreciated thank you both
Back in the day I had a 2005 D3 tdv6 manual similar to yours. Being a resident of Queensland Australia I like you believed that 5w30 oil was too thin! I asked the LR dealer to put the Castrol Magnatec 10w40 oil in it for a trial. Only difference was a small decrease in fuel economy maybe about 0.5l/100km. Because the engine had low km it didn’t suffer the rattle in the top end that Vera’s LR had. Be interesting how your LR performs with the heavier grade oil? Good work again, cheers Peter.
I'm starting to think that Christian has a advertising deal with Toyota.🤣🤣
Imagine the surprise we will have the day when he rolls in with a Toyota and offers us a tutorial on how to make some German coffee for the upcoming videos
😂🤣😂🤣😂
I went away from the LR spec years ago, mainly to bump the viscosity up to a 5w40. I get my oil analysed at every oil change and I ended up with better wear results with non LR spec oils. Currently running valvoline synpower MST 5w40 as my normal synpower 5w40 was unavailble at last purchase - thanks to covid related supply issues! It is a DPF compatible oil but its a C3 which I prefer of C1 & C2. Oh and I disagree with you in regards to the main and big end bearing not seeing higher temps, there is a lot of shear loads going through through bearings there so locally the temp will be quite high. During summer here with my camper trailer in tow I reguallt see the engine oil temps at 120deg at the sump
What engine do you have
@@jmoney1674 2.7td
The Land Rover oil isn't good, they use ACEA C1 as the basis of the latest spec for the TDV6. In the latest 3L engines with DPF fuel dilution is a problem, it will consistently "make oil" about .5L to 1L within the 10k mile interval. Using C3 oil almost makes the dilution go away, the volume of oil seems to remain unchanged between services. I think ideally using ACEA E9 5W40 would reduce the number of engine failures seen and also increasing the frequency of changes to around 5k miles.
Even in the 4.4L petrol engine the 5W30 recommendation doesn't seem great, I've been using 5W40 for around 40k miles and I think it runs better and much quieter. I can tell when the oil shears down as the engine gets noisier.
My view is LR wants to get the best fuel numbers they can get and only care that the car survives the warranty period. Plus they like selling JLR spec'd oils for $20 per liter.
Hello Shane, thanks for your feedback (and your videos). If I understand you correctly, then it is possible that the A5/B5 could cause issues for the main- and pin bearings? I thought so too but I could not find evidence that such high temps occur in these areas. This is why I made a opposite statement in the video. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian The A5/B5 is a spec that in my opinion is targeting fuel economy as they are specifically designed to use low viscosity oils. I personally feel that the fuel economy targets of these types of oil (including the older A1/B1 spec) will sacrifice some wear protection in exchange for the improvement to fuel economy numbers. It is becoming increasingly common to see low viscosity oils (0w-20 etc...) as manufacturers chase fuel economy targets. When I first got my D3 I was using Vavoline Synpower FE 5w-30 - meet the ford M2C-913 spec and is (currently) a A5/B5. Now running 5w-40 Valvoline synpower which is A3/B3. My oil samples between the two are a little bit of a mixed bag for results, wear rates of iron are improved with the 5w40 in the range of 17% improvement, however I do see an increase to lead (typically a bearing wear metal, but could also be anti-wear additives) in the range of 57%, but a decrease to copper of 46% (bearings). Interestingly I did have one run on mobil 1 5w40 (the only true synthetic oil I've run) and that showed a 20% increase in iron over the 5w30 (34% worse than the other 5w40 oils) , but only an 8% increase in lead (33% improvement compared to the other 5w40 oils) but a 41% improvement to copper (which was an improvement over the rest of the 5w40 oils) . So just to confuse the whole show, looking purely at my sample results I would argue that on the basis of copper in the samples there is an improvement to bearing wear - the lead results don't really fit in, but lead can be an anti wear additive which may or may not be what I'm seeing. I would say that if it was true bearing wear then copper and lead should move in similar directions together which I'm not seeing. The lower viscosity oils are worse for iron wear and from my results these engines are quite high for iron wear compared to others I've looked at - typically around double, however the bearing wear results are on the low side typically (I've seen much worse results from toyotas for bearing wear - but then again these were old 1HZ engines so the oil generally is in much worse condition for less km's travelled). Well this turned out to be a long winded post. If you want to see my data to draw your own conclusions then I'm happy to share it
Greetings from a Cruiser owner - great show, thank you!
Hey ihr beiden, "zis is ze longest oil change information you have ever heard" zat ist der brüller! So much technical knowledge / experience, served on a platform wiz(th) a lot of humour, thank you so much! Your presentation is excellent, it could be "furztrocken" but it is so well packaged that my wife is asking me why am I giggling so silly.
And there is a cute lady, who actually hears a slight ticking noise in her cars' engine, and says to her hubby to check it out! Champions!
Unfortunately there is nothing new with manufacturers selling you the wrong stuff 🙁
For example VW PDI engines originally had a specific oil with extra zinc as the cam lobes for the unit injectors had very high pressures. VW changed the formula in their recommended oil which had less of the zinc compounds. So VW PDI engines gained a bad reputation for wearing their cams.
I have the old Rover V8 in my LR and use a specific classic oil with the appropriate zinc etc levels.
Manufacturers get away with this mis representations as they have the little star or very small print absolving them of responsibility.
I always thought it was Molybdenum that PD engines needed.
@@MrAvant123 When VW (EU/UK) changed the 505.01 spec to the long life 507.00 they removed the ZDDP as it caused issues with DPF. Molybdenum sulfide causes problems with catalytic converters and was removed some time before. There is a brand called Liqui Moly who do a VW spec 505.01 and the used oil analysis charts I've seen on various VW TDI forums show it has almost no MoS2 in it.
I'm not an oil specialist but I did spend 3 hours teaching one how to drive off road and we discussed this change. At the time I had an old TDI and the Mrs had a TDI PD. My words are not gospel however 🙂
Just love you two, thanks great engineers and lovely people.
Very interesting I work in a petrol station and when people ask if a particular oil on the shelf is suitable for their car, I always say "check your manual for the answer" .
Decorating bonus video on how to hang wallpaper all good education 👍
Hi guys, love the German humour throughout the video. On the subject of oils I have more than average knowledge of oils, I have a dislike towards Castrol engine oils as they have a tendency to produce hard shalacs at high temperatures. I have had this knowledge since the mid 1960's I have repaired a Toyota corolla with low oil pressure that had a blocked oil pickup that had only had Castrol oil used in it. Took me 2 hours with a wire brush to remove as much as I could and clear the pickup.
I own a Australian Ford territory 2012 awd diesel which is basically the same engine as the Land Rover. My oil of choice for this engine in Australia is Mobil super 3000 XE 5w 30, it is a C3 rated oil. Remembering most of Western Australia never sees minimum temperatures below - 5 C and frequently see summer temperatures above 43 C and sometimes as high as 48+.
If Castrol was the only oil I could get locally I would drive 100km to get Mobil, Valvoline, Shell, Caltex, Penrite, Fuchs, Nulon. IMHO Mobil make the best value for money products and Shell and Valvoline are not far behind them.
Ps. Love the videos.
Fantastic accent, I can listen to you guys all day!
Oh, and your advice is great.
I drive three Toyotas and I still watched your channel. You guys are a hoot to watch.
Thanks
Most mesmerizing oil analysis video I've ever seen...
I admire you for your mechanical skills, but a master wallpaper hanger as well, I am in awe🤩.
I put my R R in for an oil change and the skid plate was never seen again... strange!
Great video as usual!
Thank you
I’m using for my 13 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 Ravenol RUP 5W40 C3 for long time very happy with it!
❤Dear Vera and Christian,
I am learning so much from you about this beautiful piece of technology😮the land Rover series 3 and 4.
I just watched your latest about snorkel installation on an lr4 , and as of today I'm turning mine to the back.
By the way, the 'bush' in Australia, is anywhere about 40 km outside of a major city and covers an area of about 3 million square kilometres . cheers Guy
😃👍🙋♀️Vera
Well done on your oil change & wall papering. I put my oil pan in a plastic bag & when I use it to change oil I leave the bag on to line the oil drain pan to keep the pan clean drain the pan into your containers remove the turn inside out (oily on the inside) then put your waste in there rags, filters boxes etc & your pan stays nice & clean
In Australia we have a saying. "As busy as one armed wall paper hanger"..ha ha ...could nearly fit your guys. Love your work. keep it up.
Eye opening,thank-you again 👍
Your 100% correct Christian, Always the manual, always, this difference is what may be causing the engine failures.
Thanks. Christian
Toyota owner here, former Range Rover owner! Love your comments, and love your show! Keep it up
Thanks. Highly appreciated. Toyota owner comments count twice in the stats. Christian
Vera, thank you for proofing Christians commentary. Who ever heard of bar of temperature? I am glad you are there to pickup all these little mishaps and remove all that unnecessary confusion.
Excellent video. I was dreading an engine rebuild just because you have done one so recently and you don't deserve another one yet. Who knew that oil could be so interesting.
I always thought you could use an oil that " meets specifications or higher "
I thought this too but it is not the case. "Higer" ACEA is in some cases even worse that older ratings. I did not know any of this until I did the research for this video. Christian
A very enlightening video. I checked my car on the oil website and it gave a non-recommended oil for my Tucson. Land Rover obviously built their engine for oils from the future lol :-)
That must be the explanation ! Christian
Well done i changed my defender engine as holiday and when doing road test fuel pump seized so 3.5 days of holiday on landrover and now little house work done lol
I now use 5W40 Magnetic in my 2010 xf v6 diesel with 148k miles & its definitely a little quieter, Thanks for the info Christian 👍
Evening Vera. Hope you’ve both had a lovely Easter Sunday 🐣 I think only Christian could talk about engine oil for half hour and make it very interesting 🧐 I’ve a MK7 1.6 tdci Golf and I’ll definitely look up the right oil instead of just putting 5W 30 lol 😂 Hanging wall paper is just another skill that this fantastic man has 🤩 🥰 For Vera from the U.K. 🏴
😃🙋♀️Vera
Thanks, LR Time. I have two LR4 since 2014 no wrong. Only my lastest 2016 LR4 SDV6 with DPF has the same noise as the video showed. I will change to Magnatec 5W40 DPF (C3) or C4 before I go France this Christmas.
👍💪🙋♀️Vera
I'm a Mercedes person my self with a 2003 E class and use 5w30 Halfords a British brand which I have no problems with. And also have used Petronas brand. When I was in the army stationed in Hohne 94-98 we had the land rovers, we used military oil OMD 80 later 90 for all our vehicles. I love your video and bless you.
Thanks. 👍 Christian
Ahahahah😂 you did not mention hearing the gudgeon pin must be like new ,once again another great video great humour , oil is now something I will be looking at more closely thank you both
Hi Christian & Vera! I am using Penrite (Aussie oil) HPR30 20W/60 here in Oz on my 235000km V8 D2. Keeps her running nice and smooth! 5W/30 is like water- it is recommended but no good for a worn V8!
The problem is the watery rubbish 5w30 is used for better fuel economy emissions... It's a great joke and companies like penrite will tell you straight up not to use it
"if this were a Toyota..." lol your not wrong. I spend my time replacing worn out parts. and this Toyota owner loves your content from the US
Hi Cristian & Vera , thank you very much for your advice . I have a RRS TDV6 2005 with almost 350 kms . I switched to 5w40 the oil pressure increases faster and the engine sounds better 🎉🎉🎉
👌👌👌👍🙋♀️
I'm amazed they still make woodchip wallpaper! Love the stuff about the oil BTW 🤗
Excellent video, important points done with humour. I totally confirm what you say about the attitude behind oil companies catalogue. They list whatever they have, absolutely true, I know because I work with many of these companies data, totally wrong 🤦♂️😁
You are great !!
I bought a Disco 3 just because your videos!!
That is so great 😅👍🙋♀️Vera
I've done exactly the same on my Toyota Yaris T Sport, switched to 5W40, when the owners manual's preferred grade is 10w30 (largely obsolete now)..
I'm just glad to have a car that:
a) Specifies oil on the API scale - all API grades are backwards compatible.
b) Would probably do just fine with basically any modern oil 5w30 or thicker in the crankcase.
I had this same issue in finding the correct oil. As I could not find a quality A3 B3 oil but it's available in the Castrol 10 /40 but not in the 5/30 so I ended up using the A5 reluctantly as I presumed it was a later better quality. I am about to do an oil change so will consider the C3 5/40 from now on.
Same problem with same engines in Jaguars. The supplier websites often show different from the handbook spec. Later with DPF all should use C1 to 934b but it seems even some garages will fill with the wrong spec and from that DPF issues appear in older cars. On another note ... always paper from the window end first or any joint line can highlight with a shadow - surprised that detail slipped German precision 😁. Nowadays I use a wallpaper that you paste the wall rather than the paper - much easier and cleaner 😎
Wow I love you guys! As you say, life is full of endless filming possibilities when you own a Land Rover, having owned more than twenty I can whole heartedly agree. We sold our VW Touareg to go back to a Land Rover again - a LR3 which in the 11 months we have owned it has had 4 air springs (under warranty thankfully), 2 compressors, a new battery, new front brake discs, new AC blower fan and now its coming up for its annual 12 months registration test (like TUV or MOT test) the exhaust is blowing a little. We changed a tyre on the VW... If I ever retire, I may buy a Toyota. I haven't done wallpapering for decades, I remember doing it in Germany oddly enough. I also remember in Germany, three of the houses we rented (in Bergen near Celle and two places near Minden) had no kitchens, just a pair of taps sticking out of the wall, quite normal for a rented house in those days. I installed 3 IKEA kitchens and never took them out. At that time, apart from a Porsche I had either 110 Land Rover County's or Range Rovers, both ideal for collecting flat pack kitchens from IKEA.
Hello Cliff, funny story for sure. And the LRs fit right in. Think about how boring a Toyota would have been. Yes, it is for sure a good retirement vehicle. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian And just as I think about looking at the exhaust, the suspension collapses. Now fitting its third compressor....!!!!
I love the dry humor !!!
Good thing…I live in South Africa and have a 2.7tdv6 with 280k in the clock…I have run the same oil as you for several years ..but had noticed the same ticking noise (valve train lash adjusters I think)..I recently replaced the oil pump ..and the rattle seems to get worse..anyway like you I have decided to ditch the 10w/30 Castro a5 ..our climate here is never below 10 degrees …I have gone to 10w/40 and the rattle improved ..I will go to 15w/50 at my next oil change ..our temp ranges generally from 10 degrees to 40 degrees C…I also think that the internal wear in the engine needs a thicker oil to compensate..I have not done the oil pressure tests..but will do..as I suspect it’s low…thx for the insight you guys are certainly helping a lot of us…
Thank you Craig. Please write me a email if you ever test W50 oil in your high mile engine. Thanks. Christian(a)LRTime.de.
Used to fill these tdv6 with Mobil 5/30 acea A3/B3 and went to 5/40 at high mileage or if they worked hard for a living. Sounds like you are right about this. Oil changes were good at no more than 10k in miles as the modern high spec oils are not cheap and unlike my old 3.5 Mazda on 15/40, seems extravagant to do every 5/6 k miles. Pity these tdv6 are so lightly built especially the bottom end. If you decide to pull the motor, there is a UK company with a bespoke conversion to BMW M57 diesel. If I was in Germany I know what I would do! Great work.
I hope it will let our engine run a bit longer. I am sure it was on the way out to heaven the way it rattled in the bottom end. A different engine is no option in Germany because of the TÜV. Thanks for your feedback. Christian
Just stumbled on your channel, you and your wife are so funny. I am not a techie, but my two personal cars are Toyotas, a Camry 2.4L engine with over 250,000 miles, and a Corolla with over 190,000 miles. They are both with their original engines and automatic transmissions, I do oil changes every 5000 miles on them. Your video is very entertaining and I will be watching from now on. Good luck folks.
Thank you very much. Please excuse our Toyota references in every video. We like Toyota a lot and Toyota drivers even more. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian Oh, no problems, please. As a matter of fact, I am watching other videos of yours right now.
Hi Christian and Vera, enjoyed your video, very informative, we look forward to them every Sunday night here in Perth. I use Castrol Edge 5w30 A3/B4 oil in my 2008 RRS TDV6 no DPF with 390,000km. change the oil myself every 10,000 km. Tow horse float every month just like driving miss daisy, nice and easy and so far no issues, haven’t lost the horse yet. Changing to the 5w40 makes sense as the km mount up, will give it a go. Thanks again. 👍
That’s a lot of km in a warm climate. Very well 👍 Thanks, Christian
How does A3/B3 or A3/B4 compare to C1? In South Africa, many of the 5W40 recommended oils are either A3/B4 or C1.
@@ndundas c1 oil are obsolete same as A3B3 oil so you can refer to ACEA data sheet online for alternatives
@@paulwhite1542 apologies, I originally meant C3. I think I now know the diff between A3/B4 and C3 😉
OMG , I think I love this channel .
Hi guys I understand that your oil keeps changing I use40 in my engine I do agree the oil companies Change there oils for years happy holidays take care phill&christine from England 🏴 south east
I'm wondering if your engine noise isn't timing chain tensioner. Of course it's got an oil leak, it's LandRover, if there's no oil leaks it has no oil, saves on having a dipstick.
As a fascinated Toyota driver, (ex LandRover), I have to say Christian, your talents are many and varied, great wallpaper hanging. 👍
LOL Vera said "she will do the magnet, and Christian can do the tasting" lol your videos are so entertaining
I am now going to check my owners manual for my Mall crawling SDV6 better to be safe than sorry . Again you both are the best . Video liked as it should be .
I will use 5W40 C3 or C4 from now on in our SDV6. No more water like 5w30. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian
Thank you for your kind reply Christian . I have spent a few hours since investigating . My own opinion is now in alignment with yours . No more dinosaur water for ours. From here on, going forward, it will be 5w40 . Increasing the oil pressure slightly. Will be beneficial to the engines overall lubrication . I believe with correct oil pump oil replacement intervals. A lot of the TD/SD engines reliability issues , with snapped cranks could well be totally avoided ... Again your content is the best LRover related on TH-cam. Looking forward to next Sunday . kind regards Dara
Vera, good choice there. I’d rather use the magnet on the oil rather than taste it too. Although new grease often looks so good you could eat it
Super. Thank you.
Hi my name is MUNENE (means BIGGS) based in Nairobi, Kenya. I have a Disco 3 2007, that I bought ex UK in 2014. From earlier on I choose 5W 40 basically because 5W 30 scared the hell out of the engine an I used it for about 3 oil changes at intervals of 5000 KM. 5W 40 makes the car feel stronger, doesn't rattle apart from engine start and stays consistent throughout. I usually put Total 9000 but change it about every 5000 KM.
Hi again here just done my oil change and for the first time put in SHELL HELIX HX8 5W 40 API SN PLUS, API SN, ACEA A3/B4
Sounds like a good choice. Christian
Arg, don´t do that. Bad luck. Now you have to drive twice as long during next full moon. Christian