No more 5W-30 ever again - Land Rover Discovery 4 - Transfer Case and Diff oil change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- #Landrover #LandroverDiscovery #LR3
In this episode we convert our Land Rover Discovery 4 to 5W-40 C3 oil. Never again will we run 5W-30 in any vehicle again unless it is under warranty. We are convinced that the additional protection value of 5W-40 oil over 5W-30 is in the long run most important.
Every LR4 Diesel has a DPF. So we use ACEA C3 low SAPS oil but with non-reduced HTHS. We will stay away from low SAPS with reduced HTHS as recommendet bey Land Rover, such as the C1, C2 and C5. ACEA C4 is a good choice too but there is no Magnatec 5W40 C4 and we do not want to go with the more expensice Edge brand.
We also show how to do a transfercase and differential oil change on the Discovery 4 in this episode.
For the Rear Differential we used Liqui Moly SAE 75-W140 GL5 Hypoid oil.
For the transfercase we used Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 with a TF-0753 clasification.
Thanks for watching,
Vera & Christian ,
We are not liable for any harm you do to your car, your engine, your surroundings or to yourself. Use the information given in this video at your own risk. The videos we provide are primarily for entertainment and not to be used as instructions. Any products and spare parts we use in our videos are chosen by us and not provided by any sponsors. We do not recommend the parts we use in our videos as we mostly use Aftermarket low-cost brands due to cost.
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landrover has been turning drivers into Mechanics for 70 years why stop now LOL and who wants a Toyota not me Land rovers all the way, thanks for the video .
😂
Christian and Vera, you should be Land Rover’s chief engineers, then we would have Land Rover products more reliable than Toyota. Every day is a school day and your videos are living proof of that, no matter how big or small. Excellent 👌
Quality is culture lol , they can never get there where Toyota is 😂😂😂
Hi, I’m an ex D3 and D4 owner, fantastic cars. I am now a Toyota owner after over 30 years of owning Land Rovers. Your Toyota comments are so funny, it’s true, they just work without any issues. I went to Toyota because I just didn’t have the time to keep up with the constant repairs and high maintenance with the Land Rovers. I really miss the Discovery 4 though, but now I have a life and money in the bank!
Great content, although I’ve gone over to the dark side I’ll still be sticking around with you guys, great and unique channel, you make a great team.
What toyota have you got? Do they make a 7 seater??
@@rikstar. Hi, I have a Hilux and a CH-R. The Land Cruiser has a seven seat option.
You can change the oil ‘weight’ dependent on climate and session… a oil suitable for Finland is going to be different to Africa, the operating temperature ranges are vastly different. People get to hung up on ‘what the manual says’, it’s a guide. The additive package and quality of the oil is what peopled should focus on.
oil weight is directly proportional to its mass !
The operating temp will be very close. The engines have a cooling system with a thermostat for a reason......
@@sheilamorrison1954you would think they would closely match but they don’t, data logging shows oil temperatures lag behaving water temps a lot, partly due to localised heating of the coolant in the heads around the exhaust ports plus the coolant temp sensor normally being located in the coolant path between the head and radiator. Oil temps take so much more time and miles to get to operating temperatures than anyone expects especially on cold days where oil might not actually get to temp for most journeys. This delta can be as large as 20-30 minutes or more!
You two make a great comedic duo. Love your work.
I will borrow Vera’s words today… OMG 🤣🤣🤣 I have changed the oil to 5W40 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!! 😱😱😱😱😱😱
My Disco now runs quieter, smoother, balanced. It’s impressive the difference it makes. I’m committed to make my Disco last longer than a Toyota 😜😜😜😜
THANK YOU guys for the time taken to research and test this!!!! I’m so happy I followed your advice!!! 🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻
Last longer than a toyota😂😂😂😂😂. You could run a landcruser without oil and it would last longer than the LR 😂.
And you're trolling a Landrover post tut tut@@sliderdriver1
Land Rover are the leading experts in making changes that cost more and are worse from a structural or reliability standpoint compared to their previous variants. I can confirm this as a long time owner from RRC, Series and original Defender.
Definitely check your oil pressure with a hydraulic gauge, could be your Chinese one is, god for bid, faulty. No video is boring with you both in it, always entertaining and informative
We do that, I am sure it's in one of our vidoes. We put a gauge on the schrader valve and tape it to the front window. 👍🙋♀️Vera
Hi Christian, I bought my 2016 Disco 4 in July this year and about 2 wks ago, I got Service Required indication came up. I saw your video. You changed to 5w40 oli on Disco 3, and I, too, was going to change to 5w40. But my 3.0 SDV6 has start/stop, dpf filter and Adblue, I kind of chickened out fearing it may cause engine problems and used 5w30 oil(landrover Jaguar specification) and You were right in saying that 5w30 oil is just like pouring water, it's so thin and it worried me, if this watery oil would be sufficient enough to keep engine parts well lubricated. Then I added ZX1 Lube Oil, which is protection/friction free lubricant for essential engine parts. After doing the service, my God what a difference that ZX1 Lube oli made. The engine runs very quiet and silky smooth and on top of it the best thing happened is that I used to get with normal driving 26 mpg and now I'm get nearly 28.7 mpg. I'm delighted. But I think I'll switch to 5w40 on my next service.
“It’s not leaking, it’s shiney”. That is beautiful!
Replace oil pump now to make sure that is the reason for low oil pressure before you pull the engine 😊
The chances the low oil pressure is due to the oil pump is low. At the end of the day, the oil pump creates flow. Pressure is achieved with the bearings.
Arh. I think you already have the answer Christian. Swop out the pump now so you can rule it out or in as the fault. Very entertaining video again. Love your German logic.
Regarding the oil pump..
If in doubt..? whip it out..
I vote for an early replacement of the oil pump. That way you will know for sure the problem was with the pump and not fixed through any other changes as part of the rebuild. Thanks for the video, I learned a few things from it.
I am doing an oil change next week on my D3 with 5W-40 C3 Yes! thanks so much for the tips and videos on how to do it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You can reuse your copper washer again, it work hardens. But It's just a matter of glowing it with a blowtorch to make the copper soft again. And C4 oil is only available as 5W-30.
This was the most fun video of oil change and maintenance I've seen in a while. Love the banter and comments between you two and the maintenance being performed. 👍🏻
Good point about the oil. Since new, I have used 5W-30 oils, but recently as the engine is ever-so-slightly tired, I put in a hefty squirt of gear oil! That quietened it down nicely, and SEEMS to have improved compression & starting. So 5W40 is the way to go. (Also, I have been using an anti friction additive Activ-8 in my engines for years, greatly reduces wear in the long run.) Good vid, thanks.
Hi what weight of gear oil did you use & roughly how much of a squirt,300ml,500ml ?
@@chrisparsons771180w-90 gear oil; probably only about 100ml, just to see how it goes. I don't want to increase the internal friction unnecessarily. Crude, I admit!
I've just switched my 2006 D3 2.7TDV6 with 230,000k's from 5W-30 to 5W-40 fully synthetic Castrol edge a3/b4 🤫🤞🏻 I live in Australia where my temps vary from -7c to 40c depending on the season. I tow horses often and love the car even thought the gearbox I'd Crap!!!! I love your show and watch it often. Thank you 🥰❤️💯👌😎
My 2012 D4 sump bash plate has 13mm head bolts the same as the D3. I suspect the previous owner / LR garage gorilla rounded off the 13mm heads and replaced them with whatever they had to hand. Your torx head bolts actually look like seat bracket bolts. I also use a Femco quick drain on the drain hole, and I also use the suction tube. Well done for finding the reason for the differences in the oil filter, I have often wondered, but never investigated. I have used 5w40 in my D3 in the past when it was working a lot in the south of France. I currently use 5w30 C2 PAS spec in my D4 but am considering changing to 5w40 C3
The D4 has vacuum supplied engine mounts, and if you see the actuator arms on EGR cooler valve are rattling, the vacuum pipe to the engine mounts is compromised. (My engine builder, Marko at QP Online) told me this.
I have used Ravenol STF 0870 for years, but now Ravenol tell me that The new RAVENOL Transfer Fluid DTF-1 replaces the RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870! I use a 5 litre garden pressure sprayer to fill my diffs, much easier than all that pumping. And I have found that fill to spill on the diffs and transfer box takes just under the measured amount of oil, so fill to spill it is.
My cost per km on my 320,000km D4 for the last 215,000km is €0.21/km including a full engine rebuild due to a snapped crankshaft at 198,000km.
Tip. I hate removing oil drain plugs because (a) they a habit of dropping into the used oil, and (b) I often get a squirt of oil down the sleeve of my overall. I installed an oil drain valve some years ago and it's great - really quick and no mess.
Thank you so much for this step-by-step instruction for an oil change. I just made the first oil change on my new old LR4 and it worked out perfectly. Btw I used a pizza cardboard from a supermarket pizza which I placed over this frame as a shield which made the oil run smoothly into the bucket. Not a single drop spilled 🙂
you two are a couple or wonderful characters, love the entertainment value of the video but also appreciate that you pass along much technical information. If it were my decision I would opt to replace the oil pump ASAP because it is essential to the engine. Could be when you do the replace you will find some other problem that was causing loss of pressure or lack of oil feed to the pump? Whatever the case I see it as a problem that needs solving sooner than later because you are risking accelerated wear....even in just the summer months interval.
Another great video, I have watched for 18 months now and enjoyed every one. I couldn't believe I did not think to put 5w-40 in my own Disco 3 but within a week of you doing Vera's I did mine, I have changed the oil pump (and belts) twice on my 176000 mile (not Euro KM,s) and the engine runs very quiet and smooth in fact previously I had a Discovery Sport with the same engine with only 60000 mile on it and that engine was defiantly louder than my Disco.
Anyway we all know just regular engine oil changes will prolong the life of any engine I usually go no longer than 3-6 thousand miles between oil changes. I changed the oil after your oil change but also I added Wynns additive which has the consistency of honey (as used by Derick on Vice Grip Garage) which I have used over the years. So heading towards a quarter million miles (hopefully) unless you would like to do an engine refirb for me Christian lol that was a great series of videos. Keep up the fantastic content all the best Phil and Louise
Christian is right the change of oil from 5w30 to 5 w40 is due to global warming, a few years ago the winter was colder in Germany, now Christian can even afford to cut less wood for heating because the harsh winters have disappeared. Nice video thank you. 😎😎😎
😅👍 I had my oven running until last week. 🙋♀️Vera
That's called weather. Stick around long enough and you'll realise that it's different every year. 😉
The most entertaining oil change video ever .
My vote is for changing the oil pump as soon as possible for Vera's piece of mind.
I like how the Mall Crawler caught lunch for you like a cat , bringing you a present for being nice to it lol
If you reuse a copper washer re-anneal it so it’s soft again 👍
They make a great team and a great couple.very entertaining
5w-40 on all diesel no exception is what I use on all diesel, help with fuel/oil dilution, oil sheering, oil pressure and oil consumption.
I do the same, always have done and always buy Diesel specific engine oil.
I have run Toyota 4x4's for decades, in the handbook the range of approved oils is huge depending on typical local ambient temperature, am yet to have any issues with any of them save a failed alternator once.
Great overview on the service on both of your Land Rovers.. love the banter between you guys.. thank god you speak very good English.. I must say most us lazy Brits only speak English.. great channel.. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hello Vera and Christian, great video as always. I like the fact that you always explain clearly your actions. You should work for Land Rover as their technical adviser.
Your graphic is perfect. Love that.
I have a 1993 Range Rover Classic petrol. I upgraded my oil to 20w50. Manual calls for 10w40. But using the right oil for the right climate matters. Love the videos. You two crack me up.
Also it depends how worn the engine is.
Unipart used to suggest thinner oils for newer engines and thicker for older ⚠️
I wouldn’t change that oil pump yet but keep monitoring it closely. Also, make sure to keep us posted on that JLR business meeting!
I loved the Land Rovers when I was a trainee technician coz they always gave me work to do, especially the Range Rovers
I think you're wonderful for divulging you're information and understanding of oil and how it can drastically affect the life of the engine under extreme loads and so on. I thank you both for being so helpful and entertaining, best regards and have a great weekend...PS keep clicking that torque wrench, Alan Millyard does a similar thing with a hacksaw and hand sawing everything when he has other perfectly good tool that can do the job in a tenth of the time, it amuse him and me, also he has a mad channel on motor bikes and is rather eccentric, you may find him entertaining, I know i do!
I love your sense of humour about Toyota owners.
Cheers from Australia
Hey guys, randomly ended up here from vw touareg videos,
5w 30 only good for early stage of vehicle life i personally have always ran petrol boxer engines or turbo diesel cars 10-40w regardless of the deal oil company made with an car company.
Few things to consider offcourse is if a vehicle fitted with a dpf, you may have to avoid small trips thats all!
Once again, I firmly believe you made a good decision. What would really make this more interesting is, if you haven't disposed of the old 5W-30, you could get a small sample (100 ml or so) for a used oil analysis and do the same with the 5W-40 after 2 oil changes with the same oil for consistency purposes.
One suggestion I would make though is to replace air filters as opposed to blowing them out with compressed air. Part of this is because the filter media is not designed for the type of air pressure you would see out of an air compressor. The other being, you cannot clean the filter out completely and end up loosening dirt that could make it's way into the intake when the filter is put back in service. This could also show up as elevated silicone levels in a used oil analysis.
With that being said, considering the South African A3/B4 recommendation, which is essentially a full SAPS oil, you could take that up a notch and use a heavy duty engine oil that's has an ACEA E7 rating with a much more robust additive package than any other regular oil. Something like Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 comes to mind.
As for the differential, 75W-140 is a great choice. Yes, fuel economy may take a slight hit, but in the grand scheme of things, offers better protection for your gears. I notice you also used vollsynthetisch labelled oil, which in Germany means it's POA based, making it an even better choice!
That’s some good info!
Thanks for the feedback. I thought about a oil analysis but I would not be able to interpret the data. The air filter was only 8 month old and this is why I put it back in. I only checked if there was dust using a air gun. It was not my intention to clean the filter. Talk to you see Cagri, Christian
It’s interesting, I think Mobil Delvac will be the best solution under operating conditions in Russia. In my region it’s +40 C, and in winter -40 C
These videos make my week 👍and as an English man who owns a defender I can say this video sums up completely why the U.K gave the world Land-rover and Germany gave us Mercedes Benz😂😂
In the US the ford f150 diesel has the same engine basically and almost everyone including ford dealers uses 5w40 HDEO oil, ford sells the magic 5w30 oil under their own label but from what I gather they advise for severe duty to use 5w40 ACEA E9 oil.
My Sunday ritual, watching Christian and Vera 🙌
Thanks. Christian
The trend for large volume American engines is smaller, less surface area oil filters. The idea is that their efficiency increases at a higher rate over time than larger, older oil filter designs.
Hello from USA (Michigan)! I just discovery you both today. I like that you have fun with each other and when you explain things! Very nice!!
😀🙏We lived in Michigan for almost 10 years, in Rochester Hills. 🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian That's where I live!! 🙂
A trick for transmission oil - put the bottle with oil to the hot water to warm it up before filling up the transmission or differential
Now you tell me after I broke a sweat Lol. Good idea. Christian
Prefilling of oil filters mean to introduce a cup of unfiltered oil into the engine when starting. Caterpillar does not allow this procedure to avoid any oil contamination during oil change. Of course in the quiet atmosphere of a home garage it seems different but better safe than sorry.
Running 5W40 C-3 in my 4.4 SDV8 L405. Thanks for doing the leg work.
Please change oil pump now it will be cheaper in the long run . You both are a pleasure to watch .
I liked your reaction about he oil filter size differences.
Totally agree with you but I have a super solution for this little issue.
Just use the oil filter and the top housing from LR3 and install it on your LR4.
The only difference is that the earlier model has a higher housing top by 5 ish cm
Thank you for sharing this experience. It was a pleasure to watch you.
In my LR 3 V8 4.4 I use Castrol 5w30 however i then add STP oil treatment and it makes a huge difference to the engine sound (much smoother). Not sure what others think of STP versus Liqui Molly.
It‘s a V8 so no need to not go by the LR spec, like we do on the V6. We, however, do not use additives. 👍👌🙋♀️
I really like to see you. they are a very funny couple with good energy .. big hug and kiss from portugal.
😃👍We'll come down to Portugal one day. 🙋♀️Vera
I work on a German car brand in Australia, I just wish the manufacturer had a sense of humour like you two!
I love how instead of offering a separate 1 euro drain plug O-ring, LR wants you to buy a 20 Euro drain plug (with an "integrated" O-ring). I have reused the drain plug on my Velar several times and not had any leaks. This is one reason I'll never buy another LR/RR.
My understanding is that different oil viscosity can be used depending on ambient temperature. Probably not the case so much with modern oils, but likely why landrover may have specified 5w40 in South Africa and 30 in germany.
In Moscow, I fill in mineral monograde oil sae30 (30w30) in winter and sae30 or sae40 in summer.
There is a lot of thickener sludge from synthetics and semi-synthetics. I change mineral oil every 5000 km or 200 hours.
Engine - Jaguar aj41 or 448pn. =)
I heard that A5/B5 is avoided in Russia as well due to the reduced HTHS. We change oil before 12tkm. Not after 24 tkm as LR recommends. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian We also have 99.9% of people trying to buy the best A5 / B5 oil for their car. Although the manuals for 4.4: oil A1/A3 or API SJ\SL & ACEA B1/B3 - for 2.7. If someone buys A1\B1, he will be anathema for daring to buy such a muck for the motor.
In a previous post, I indicated the viscosity of the oil I drive in winter. And no problem starting the engine. Today's mineral oils freeze from 5w to 15w on the oil passport. This is important in the Russian continental winter.
There was an experiment, beyond the Arctic Circle, closer to Norway, sae50 was poured into an old car in frost -25 \ -17C and there were no problems starting the engine. At such low temperatures, the fluidity of the oil is no longer important, but the health of the battery is important. Since the confident start of the motor is standardized by starting currents, which are guaranteed not lower than -18C.
Therefore, I'm surprised why you fill in 5w30\40, if in your climate you can safely fill in 10\15\20w ... At the same time, there will be less depressants, a thickener in the oil, that is, there will be more oil in the oil.
And, yes, I drive API SD =)
Hello Christian .
If your worry is the HTHS , there are 5w-30 C3 oils . Going from C2 to C3 there is a significant difference and makes sense. Going from 5w-30 to 5w-40 ... for sure will not hurt but not benefit much either... Engine oils - never run out of arguments 🙂
L.E.
Since it would be crazy to have a D4 as the only vehicle in the family I also own a small Toyota hybrid bought from new. Despite the fact that the owner manual and all official documentation states 0w-20 oil should be used, at the annual inspection, dealers from Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg all put in 5w-30. And I don't think it is because of the hot climate :) . I even asked why they do this, the answer was invariable - for better protection, that the 0w-20 trades protection for fuel efficiency and they don't even bother to have it on stock.
The trend to save fuel this way is bad. OEM s will do anything to officially reduce fuel consumption. At the end, it does not save much at all. W20 oil should be banned 😂😬. Christian
Watching back some of your older videos. Very useful knowledge presented in a light hearted way which makes it easy to watch. Glad to see the support for your channel continue to grow ( I can tell by the length of the Patreon roll) Keep up the good work.... we Discovery owners need the backup.😁😁👨🔧👩🔧
Yes, without our wonderful Patrons we not be doing TH-cam videos anymore. 👍🙋♀️
I would change now, you know first hand how much work and money it takes when the engine goes boom 🤯👍
Now I'm super curious about the meeting with JLR.
😬 it was bad. Unfortunately. Much worse than I expected. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian please do tell us.
@@Vera_and_Christian Sounds like they are on a gagging agreement mission?
@@Vera_and_Christian JLR can't take a joke or some kind of int. property dispute.. Anyway, let us know if/how we can help.
@@haanjamiis Everything we have seen technically appears to be factually correct and the personal opinions expressed also seem legitimate personal opinions. I think most viewers will happily write stinking letters to LR and spread the word if they try to take down this fabulous channel. Look at the experience of Shedlock2000 who was in the worse position of trying to bale out of a lemon Defender lease, being disgracefully served with NDA terms.
Hi guys, cracking channel, the oil drain pan you don't like to use because you can't check for metallic particles I use all the time, however I put a gauze inside the hole that lets the oil through but collects any bits of metal that's in the oil and I don't have to search the old with a magnet, my wife is not best pleased, I used her flour sieve for the gauze, keep on keeping on guys.
Christian and Vera fantastic entertainment and video presentation,that engine of yours is so clean inside from your oil change))) 🇬🇧❤️
Heh Christian, I presume JLR are meeting with you to discuss establishing that "Centre of Excellence for Quality and Reliability" in your garage. Yes?
It will be a fascinating meeting I am sure. Well done. Best wishes to Vera. I enjoy your work so much.
OEM oil pumps are cheaper from a Peugeot / Citroën dealer. That's what I fitted to my Jaguar XJ 2.7.
I remember you saying that premature was not a good word for us guys ! I say leave it in, enjoy your vacation then do it as part of the engine overhaul. Another great video. I’ve ordered the magnatec 5w-40 DPF version for my next oil change. I’m trusting you guys more than my own mechanic !!
😅👍 🙋♀️Vera
I ordered a pump and I intend to change it this week. The big benefit is, that we all will learn if a cheap pump can really be the reason for low idle pressure and slow build up. Video will be out in 2-3 weeks because we got to fix the rear brakes first. Christian
Landrover has a long history of speccing oil that barely works for its products.. You know like atf in manual gearboxes etc.. ....love your video guys....
Hello Christian and Vera, great video guys very entertaining as always. I am using 5W-40 on my 2010 LR4 V8 5.0 petrol engine for about 3 years now and no problems to report about that. I just replaced the engine valve covers and gaskets, spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, engine belts, thermostat, engine oil and filter, and radiator coolant. All very easy to do, but removing the original fuel injectors was a real problem and a pain. Next on the schedule would be the transfers case oil change, thanks for the video. Take care and stay safe.
Onax
I'm about to do the engine valve cover gaskets myself. I have a small oil leak on the passenger side bank.
@@fredbrackely Yeap, I had the same problem. The usual Land Rover oil leak on the passenger side and the driver side was fine. But I went ahead and did both as I did not want to do it again in the future. To remove the fuel injectors get the special tool because those are a pain. My LR4 is running like new again, now it feels like the V-8 5.0 has new life, 142 MPH on the autobahn no sweat and I pull back on the gas pedal simply because I wanted.
Yes you are correct about the engine not being worn out between services.
Your cheap oil pump seems to be the concern from what you are telling us, genuine pump only in my book…..but thats only my opinion.
It seems there is a pattern here, the HP fuel pump was a concern too after replacing it, the new pump cured the concern.
You are olon a contentious subject!
There are endless arguments here on YT on this subject.
I also have opinions.
Firstly one needs to bear with that the manufacturer does not care about longevity (quite the opposite) but they do care about emission certification and warranty claims.
So they will specify a grade of oil that ticks both boxes - lowest possible drag, consistent with low claims due lubrication failure.
Also the additve packages have changed. Zinc is excellent anti wear agent but it poisons catalytic converters, so it was replaced with poor substitutes.
Beyond that it is up to the owner to choose the right oil for the conditions they are driving in.
I'm in South Africa where we have extremes.
I have seen - 12c before dawn and +34 by midday in winter and in summer +52c at the same location. The handbook for my old Landcruiser may say 10w-30 but I use 5w-40 and am extremely gentle until up to temperature on cold mornings.
Thanks for the info and feedback out of South Africa. We also got extreme conditions here. Check our next video at the end scenes. I revel the big secret why I drive a Discovery 4 and not a What Cruiser. Christian
To save the cost of buying a new oil sump plug for every oil change (which is recommended), you could instead buy the _rubber gasket_ for the sump plug. For the _Discovery 3_ , I use the _Dorman 097-139 Rubber Drain Plug Gasket, Fits M14_ .
When changing the engine air filter on my Discovery 3, I also usually clean the _Mass Air Flow (MAF)_ sensor and _Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)_ sensor with an electrical sensor cleaner. It's supposed to improve fuel efficiency and performance.
We do that also. 👍😃🙋♀️Vera
I cleaned the sensor 2 or 3 videos back. I also bought seal rings but they do not fit as well. I must have gotten a bad brand. Thanks. Christian
Hello from Kazakhstan. I think that for the engine to be better protected, additional parameters need to be considered.
Certainly, oil viscosity is crucial. I believe that for greater protection, a more viscous oil like w50 with a stronger base and fewer polymers added to increase viscosity would be suitable. The difference in fluidity between w40 and w50 oils is not significant, but the HTHS value and viscosity(100 to 150 degrees) favor w50. This is because the oil can heat up beyond 110-120 degrees, and during this process, the viscosity can drop significantly. If you measure oil pressure at 110-120 degrees, the pressure can be below 1 bars, even in a new engine. In reality, this is very low, especially if you are driving on mountain serpentine roads or moving on autobahns at high speeds. Therefore, more viscous oil will help increase pressure.
Next, the original oil pressure sensor should be replaced with one that gives a warning if the pressure drops below 1 bar.
And most importantly, the coolant and oil temperatures should be lowered. I believe the ideal parameter is 80-90 degrees for the oil all time. Structurally, the oil cooler is not in the most optimal place. This can be improved by modifying the oil cooling system, moving the cooler from its standard location to a separate radiator that cools the oil with the airflow during movement. The oil filter can also be placed separately. These solutions exist and are used in racing tuning. Replacing the thermostat with a colder variant that opens at 82 degrees can further enhance cooling efficiency and protect the engine under varying operational conditions.
Additionally, it is very important to change the oil every 5,000-6,000 kilometers.
Thank you!
Another excellent video 🙂.
Change the oil pump now , just to be sure.
Considering oil viscosity is based on ambient temperature and therefore engine block temperature the chosen viscosity can change based on time of year or overall temperature for your area.
Your videos are the highlight of my TH-cam week! Thank you!
I had a thought ( which doesn't happen very often, and when it does, is normally not very impressive) but, isn't your aftermarket oil pressure guage causing your pressure problem?
Hello Sean, I also tried a direct mounted oil gauge. Not the best one either but it does read higher on my LR4... Yes, the chineese electrical gauge sucks. Christian
Definitely replace the oil pump now. Don't risk running low oil pressure for any longer 👍happy wife, happy life and in this case a happy Tdv6 😎
I guess if you say Toyota enough times you could end up having one, then where would we be, nothing to do in your spare time then. Might need to brush up on your coffee making. Your LandRovers provide part of my Sunday night entertainment, always something to do there.
I love watching you too you make a good pairing if I was you I would replace the oil pump and if it's possible check the main bearings on the crankshaft keep doing your thing I love watching you on Sunday morning
That is the plan, when we change the oil pump, to remove the sump and check the bearings. 💪👍🙋♀️Vera
As they've all said, another good video,now Vera got the new oil pump, there's only one thing left to do haha, another interesting set to watch,thanks again guys
LR Time is addictive! (And this coming from a D2 owner in Australia)
This D2a owner, in Melbourne uses 5W-40 to suit the temps from the snow to the desert!
😅👍🙏🙋♀️Vera
You are asking a pump designed for 5W30 to push a thicker oil.. your oil pressure may well drop. In SA, with higher ambient temps, the 5w40 would have a similar consistency. Consider a quick test back to 5W30 using a cheap oil. Save the 5W40 (if you wish to re-use it) just in case :)
@teevee2145 It's viscosity is higher therefore it is thicker.
Please don’t risk it replace the oil pump ASAP, excellan channel
OMG - I vote to the replace the oil pump now before any premature wear to your engine. And do a full engine out rebuild in the autumn! Loving your videos on a Sunday 🙂
Another great video 👍 Christian you could make changing an Air filter video worth watching 😆 as for the oil pressure issue, I would definitely look at changing the oil pump now to help with future diagnosis of the pressure problem.
Just checked my D3 (2008) servicing records, have been using C3 5W/40 (mag prof) since at least 2013.
I love your video content but even if it's not so good Vera smile brightens everybody's day
😊🙏Thank you 🙋♀️Vera
Mobil 0W40 with with Toyota 0W20 provide a good 0W30 oil.
Did several oil analysts and the results came back excellent.
Only an oil analysts report truely provide true information.
You guys are the greatest! Thanks for all your hard work!
Great video as always. Replace that oil pump you know it's the right thing to do.
Evening Vera and Christian 🤩 Another full of humour with good technical information video on your LR 🤣 x
if anyone is interested my 2003 Toyota MR2 is sort of broken 'brake back plate dust guard has fell off -UK MOT failure ' I do intend to fix this but on my 1971 series 3 land rover it needs a total rebuild the the twin carburetors which will have to wait till I have 2 weeks off work 😂 great video
Danke für das Video. Gute und wichtige Informationen, die zum Werterhalt des Disco beitragen.
hi guys. i got my sticker and Patch.. although i think it would make a great set of videos to wait until the Autumn to do your Oil pump, i would rather see preventative measures to ensure the engine makes it to November and maintain a long life. you're videos never boring, always has some fun factor in it.
You two on You tube , very funny have better British humour than many Brits I know , you must have watched Black Adder at some point, so not being a Land Rover driver but you are making me somewhat interested in this vehicle , can’t afford new so which model and series would you advise myself to start to look at keeping in mind not as talented as your with knowledge and mechanical minded as yourself. Wow you two make my soul smile.
This guy & his wife are fun and highly informative. Euro-Pros for sure 👍🏻👍🏻
🚙💨💨
Moi aussi je voudrais un autocollant 👍👍👍meilleur chaîne de mécanique discovery 3/4 au monde 💪💪💪
LR specifies 5W-30 Low SAPS C1 oil on the 3.0 liter D4, with a viscosity of approx. 10 mm2/s at 100ºC and 54 mm2/s at 40ºC.
CASTROL MAGNATEC 5W-40 DPF C3 has 13,9 mm2/s at 100ºC, which is close to +40% more. At 40ºC the viscosity is 89 mm2/s, which is +65 % compared to C1. It looks like a big step up and sulphur content is +40% compared to C1.
Would you consider using Ravennol HDS 5W-30 C4 in the 3.0 liter D4 ? This oil offers same Low SAPS as C1 with approx. 12 mm2/s viscosity at 100ºC and 72 mm2/s at 30ºC.
Use cooking oil quiet as quiet can be
I use Shell Ultra 5w40 in my LR4 and LR3 (before I sold it with 320 000 km) The Discovery 4 now have just over 200 000 km and I did change all the other oils ( I also used the Liqui Moly 75w140 in both diffs and the Ravenol in the transfer case , including the gearbox ( ZF did the change)
I am very interested in the App and they way you reset the service light...More info on that will be appreciated.
Johan- Cape Town
Hi Johan, There is a way i found on the web, just google reset service light and I got a result something in the order of open bonnet, open driver door, ignition on but engine not running and pressing the brake and fuel down for 60s if I remember correctly...
Hi guys!
Thank you for your love to Disco that you are sharing with us! Absolutely love watching your channel 🤗
I know that you runs diesel engines on your both Discos, but maybe you can still express and share your own opinion about which engine oil would you prefer to use if you’ve had a gasoline V8 5.0 engine?
I own 2012 Discovery 4 with gasoline V8 5.0 liters engine (engineered by Ford as far as I know, maybe I’m wrong) and it has 93000 kilometers on clock, on the oil cap it says to use Castrol 5W20 which later was switched to 0W20. As per my request to LR international support the recommendation is to use engine oils with following requirements SAE 5W20 WSS-M2C925-A or SAE 0W20 STJLR.51.5122.
I enjoyed you both I would check oil pressure first by a gauge.
Change the oil pump now, Vera is always right! I thought you would know that by now Christian!!!!😄
You guys make a great team and lovely couple
So glad I own a V8 Crusier. I use 5W40 oil in it too.
Putting the oil filter into the cap first isn't really a problem on D3. When you start rotating the cap (and the filter with it) plug will snap/fall into the drain hole. I never had to put the filter into the housing first on mine.