landrover has been turning drivers into Mechanics for 70 years why stop now LOL and who wants a Toyota not me Land rovers all the way, thanks for the video .
Christian and Vera, you should be Land Rover’s chief engineers, then we would have Land Rover products more reliable than Toyota. Every day is a school day and your videos are living proof of that, no matter how big or small. Excellent 👌
Hi, I’m an ex D3 and D4 owner, fantastic cars. I am now a Toyota owner after over 30 years of owning Land Rovers. Your Toyota comments are so funny, it’s true, they just work without any issues. I went to Toyota because I just didn’t have the time to keep up with the constant repairs and high maintenance with the Land Rovers. I really miss the Discovery 4 though, but now I have a life and money in the bank! Great content, although I’ve gone over to the dark side I’ll still be sticking around with you guys, great and unique channel, you make a great team.
I will borrow Vera’s words today… OMG 🤣🤣🤣 I have changed the oil to 5W40 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!! 😱😱😱😱😱😱 My Disco now runs quieter, smoother, balanced. It’s impressive the difference it makes. I’m committed to make my Disco last longer than a Toyota 😜😜😜😜 THANK YOU guys for the time taken to research and test this!!!! I’m so happy I followed your advice!!! 🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻
Land Rover are the leading experts in making changes that cost more and are worse from a structural or reliability standpoint compared to their previous variants. I can confirm this as a long time owner from RRC, Series and original Defender.
Just changed the 5wdumbass oil in my 2011 Range Rover Sport for 5w40 C3 and the first thing I noticed is the engine is noticeably quieter! Makes sense, but didn't really expect it, so a nice little bonus. 121k miles (200k km) on the clock now, so hopefully this change will keep it running smooth for many more years. Thank you guys, und vielen dank! 🙂
Definitely check your oil pressure with a hydraulic gauge, could be your Chinese one is, god for bid, faulty. No video is boring with you both in it, always entertaining and informative
Hi Christian, I bought my 2016 Disco 4 in July this year and about 2 wks ago, I got Service Required indication came up. I saw your video. You changed to 5w40 oli on Disco 3, and I, too, was going to change to 5w40. But my 3.0 SDV6 has start/stop, dpf filter and Adblue, I kind of chickened out fearing it may cause engine problems and used 5w30 oil(landrover Jaguar specification) and You were right in saying that 5w30 oil is just like pouring water, it's so thin and it worried me, if this watery oil would be sufficient enough to keep engine parts well lubricated. Then I added ZX1 Lube Oil, which is protection/friction free lubricant for essential engine parts. After doing the service, my God what a difference that ZX1 Lube oli made. The engine runs very quiet and silky smooth and on top of it the best thing happened is that I used to get with normal driving 26 mpg and now I'm get nearly 28.7 mpg. I'm delighted. But I think I'll switch to 5w40 on my next service.
You can change the oil ‘weight’ dependent on climate and session… a oil suitable for Finland is going to be different to Africa, the operating temperature ranges are vastly different. People get to hung up on ‘what the manual says’, it’s a guide. The additive package and quality of the oil is what peopled should focus on.
@@sheilamorrison1954you would think they would closely match but they don’t, data logging shows oil temperatures lag behaving water temps a lot, partly due to localised heating of the coolant in the heads around the exhaust ports plus the coolant temp sensor normally being located in the coolant path between the head and radiator. Oil temps take so much more time and miles to get to operating temperatures than anyone expects especially on cold days where oil might not actually get to temp for most journeys. This delta can be as large as 20-30 minutes or more!
Another great video, I have watched for 18 months now and enjoyed every one. I couldn't believe I did not think to put 5w-40 in my own Disco 3 but within a week of you doing Vera's I did mine, I have changed the oil pump (and belts) twice on my 176000 mile (not Euro KM,s) and the engine runs very quiet and smooth in fact previously I had a Discovery Sport with the same engine with only 60000 mile on it and that engine was defiantly louder than my Disco. Anyway we all know just regular engine oil changes will prolong the life of any engine I usually go no longer than 3-6 thousand miles between oil changes. I changed the oil after your oil change but also I added Wynns additive which has the consistency of honey (as used by Derick on Vice Grip Garage) which I have used over the years. So heading towards a quarter million miles (hopefully) unless you would like to do an engine refirb for me Christian lol that was a great series of videos. Keep up the fantastic content all the best Phil and Louise
I've just switched my 2006 D3 2.7TDV6 with 230,000k's from 5W-30 to 5W-40 fully synthetic Castrol edge a3/b4 🤫🤞🏻 I live in Australia where my temps vary from -7c to 40c depending on the season. I tow horses often and love the car even thought the gearbox I'd Crap!!!! I love your show and watch it often. Thank you 🥰❤️💯👌😎
2.7 and 3.0 hdi engine was originally designed for 5W-40 and then due to marketing and idea of less internal friction and lower fuel consumption changed to 5W-30. Than suddenly in Norway we had maby engine failures related to oil because it showed that 5W-30 brake apart by oil shreading and high tempts just over 5000 km. I would reccomend 5W-40 quarc 9000 total ineo. Magnatec oil you showed is branded as synthetic but its actually semi synthetic with esters.
Good point about the oil. Since new, I have used 5W-30 oils, but recently as the engine is ever-so-slightly tired, I put in a hefty squirt of gear oil! That quietened it down nicely, and SEEMS to have improved compression & starting. So 5W40 is the way to go. (Also, I have been using an anti friction additive Activ-8 in my engines for years, greatly reduces wear in the long run.) Good vid, thanks.
@@chrisparsons771180w-90 gear oil; probably only about 100ml, just to see how it goes. I don't want to increase the internal friction unnecessarily. Crude, I admit!
The chances the low oil pressure is due to the oil pump is low. At the end of the day, the oil pump creates flow. Pressure is achieved with the bearings.
Arh. I think you already have the answer Christian. Swop out the pump now so you can rule it out or in as the fault. Very entertaining video again. Love your German logic.
The most entertaining oil change video ever . My vote is for changing the oil pump as soon as possible for Vera's piece of mind. I like how the Mall Crawler caught lunch for you like a cat , bringing you a present for being nice to it lol
you two are a couple or wonderful characters, love the entertainment value of the video but also appreciate that you pass along much technical information. If it were my decision I would opt to replace the oil pump ASAP because it is essential to the engine. Could be when you do the replace you will find some other problem that was causing loss of pressure or lack of oil feed to the pump? Whatever the case I see it as a problem that needs solving sooner than later because you are risking accelerated wear....even in just the summer months interval.
My eyes have been opened with regard to oil types. My wife's 2007 Camry was the subject of oil use issues that some thought should result in a recall and engine repair or replacement. You may not know, but Toyota would test the oil consumption by filling to the proper level and then "sealing" the system. They would recheck the level after the owner drove the car 1000 miles and brought it back to the dealer again. Toyota would not repair an engine unless it used over 1 quart of oil in 1000 miles. During the effective time of the tests (age and mileage), her car did not consume oil. Later on, it began using a great deal of oil - possibly half the capacity - between oil changes. For some reason, I felt I could not use oil other than the type (5W20) marked on the oil filler cap. A friend suggested I try another weight oil to see if it helped with the consumption. I switched to 10W40 oil, and the oil consumption practically stopped. This seems to have allowed us to use the car for another 50,000 or more miles so far - beyond what seemed to be where it was worn out, based on oil consumption. In some cases, the dealer is not going to help with a problem, and you have nothing to lose by trying something the dealer does not recommend.
Oil Cap viscosity markings are to satisfy the EPA. It is not, usually for the health of the engine. And yes, 5/20 whether in a mazda, toyota, honda or Ford, GM, Chrysler.... They do burn quick. So the 30s and 40s are better when at operating temps. If you do live in the colder parts of the US, i would suggest a 5/40 vs a 10/40 for better cold starts....but remains the same when hot. (in Alaska, u may require to go 0/40 vsa 5/40)
Excellent Sunday morning video as always. I would replace the oil pump with an OEM one from LR. However, I am also looking forward to some more excellent engine out videos in the future. Land-Rover proudly turning owners into mechanics since 1948
Great overview on the service on both of your Land Rovers.. love the banter between you guys.. thank god you speak very good English.. I must say most us lazy Brits only speak English.. great channel.. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This was the most fun video of oil change and maintenance I've seen in a while. Love the banter and comments between you two and the maintenance being performed. 👍🏻
Your graphic is perfect. Love that. I have a 1993 Range Rover Classic petrol. I upgraded my oil to 20w50. Manual calls for 10w40. But using the right oil for the right climate matters. Love the videos. You two crack me up.
Thank you so much for this step-by-step instruction for an oil change. I just made the first oil change on my new old LR4 and it worked out perfectly. Btw I used a pizza cardboard from a supermarket pizza which I placed over this frame as a shield which made the oil run smoothly into the bucket. Not a single drop spilled 🙂
I vote for an early replacement of the oil pump. That way you will know for sure the problem was with the pump and not fixed through any other changes as part of the rebuild. Thanks for the video, I learned a few things from it.
My 2012 D4 sump bash plate has 13mm head bolts the same as the D3. I suspect the previous owner / LR garage gorilla rounded off the 13mm heads and replaced them with whatever they had to hand. Your torx head bolts actually look like seat bracket bolts. I also use a Femco quick drain on the drain hole, and I also use the suction tube. Well done for finding the reason for the differences in the oil filter, I have often wondered, but never investigated. I have used 5w40 in my D3 in the past when it was working a lot in the south of France. I currently use 5w30 C2 PAS spec in my D4 but am considering changing to 5w40 C3 The D4 has vacuum supplied engine mounts, and if you see the actuator arms on EGR cooler valve are rattling, the vacuum pipe to the engine mounts is compromised. (My engine builder, Marko at QP Online) told me this. I have used Ravenol STF 0870 for years, but now Ravenol tell me that The new RAVENOL Transfer Fluid DTF-1 replaces the RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870! I use a 5 litre garden pressure sprayer to fill my diffs, much easier than all that pumping. And I have found that fill to spill on the diffs and transfer box takes just under the measured amount of oil, so fill to spill it is. My cost per km on my 320,000km D4 for the last 215,000km is €0.21/km including a full engine rebuild due to a snapped crankshaft at 198,000km.
You can reuse your copper washer again, it work hardens. But It's just a matter of glowing it with a blowtorch to make the copper soft again. And C4 oil is only available as 5W-30.
Just to clarify a few points: D4 engine bash plate uses the same bolts as a D3, somebody has changed them to torque. Not all world regions have a DPF fitted to the D4 (no DPF on the D4 in Australia) I actually don't agree with blowing out air filter, simply replace it. I recommend to all my customers to do a service every 10K changing engine oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter. At the end of the day the best thing you can do to an engine is change the oil on a regular basis. While I am certainly not a Land Rover fan boy remember that the V6 2.7 and 3.0 is a rubbish Ford engine. I'm a small workshop and I have probably done at least 30 engine replacements on both the D3 and D4. Saying that I can show many D4 models that have over 300K and running well. As always keep up the fun videos.
Christian is right the change of oil from 5w30 to 5 w40 is due to global warming, a few years ago the winter was colder in Germany, now Christian can even afford to cut less wood for heating because the harsh winters have disappeared. Nice video thank you. 😎😎😎
Surely in South Africa the temperature is a lot hotter than Germany/Europe. That’s why they run 5w40 instead of using 5w30 like we do here in Europe. Great video 👍🏻
These videos make my week 👍and as an English man who owns a defender I can say this video sums up completely why the U.K gave the world Land-rover and Germany gave us Mercedes Benz😂😂
I think you're wonderful for divulging you're information and understanding of oil and how it can drastically affect the life of the engine under extreme loads and so on. I thank you both for being so helpful and entertaining, best regards and have a great weekend...PS keep clicking that torque wrench, Alan Millyard does a similar thing with a hacksaw and hand sawing everything when he has other perfectly good tool that can do the job in a tenth of the time, it amuse him and me, also he has a mad channel on motor bikes and is rather eccentric, you may find him entertaining, I know i do!
😂😂Cracking up, what a hoot of a channel. I’m now a subscriber and it will be my Sunday night viewing complete with beer and chips. Great work, from Oz 🇦🇺
Heh Christian, I presume JLR are meeting with you to discuss establishing that "Centre of Excellence for Quality and Reliability" in your garage. Yes? It will be a fascinating meeting I am sure. Well done. Best wishes to Vera. I enjoy your work so much.
Hi guys, cracking channel, the oil drain pan you don't like to use because you can't check for metallic particles I use all the time, however I put a gauze inside the hole that lets the oil through but collects any bits of metal that's in the oil and I don't have to search the old with a magnet, my wife is not best pleased, I used her flour sieve for the gauze, keep on keeping on guys.
In the US the ford f150 diesel has the same engine basically and almost everyone including ford dealers uses 5w40 HDEO oil, ford sells the magic 5w30 oil under their own label but from what I gather they advise for severe duty to use 5w40 ACEA E9 oil.
I do the same, always have done and always buy Diesel specific engine oil. I have run Toyota 4x4's for decades, in the handbook the range of approved oils is huge depending on typical local ambient temperature, am yet to have any issues with any of them save a failed alternator once.
I liked your reaction about he oil filter size differences. Totally agree with you but I have a super solution for this little issue. Just use the oil filter and the top housing from LR3 and install it on your LR4. The only difference is that the earlier model has a higher housing top by 5 ish cm
Watching back some of your older videos. Very useful knowledge presented in a light hearted way which makes it easy to watch. Glad to see the support for your channel continue to grow ( I can tell by the length of the Patreon roll) Keep up the good work.... we Discovery owners need the backup.😁😁👨🔧👩🔧
Landrover has a long history of speccing oil that barely works for its products.. You know like atf in manual gearboxes etc.. ....love your video guys....
Vera, tell Christian that the only way you're going to let him wait until winter to replace the oil pump is if he buys a replacement engine that can be fitted immediately in the event of a catastrophic failure. I suspect the reason Christian isn't in a rush to fix it is because he thinks there's some other problem and a new oil pump won't help. If that IS correct, and the engine requires a major rebuild, the cost of buying a new oil pump is going to be insignificant compared to the cost of rebuilding the engine so it won't really matter if you try a new oil pump before starting more major work.
As they've all said, another good video,now Vera got the new oil pump, there's only one thing left to do haha, another interesting set to watch,thanks again guys
Hey guys, randomly ended up here from vw touareg videos, 5w 30 only good for early stage of vehicle life i personally have always ran petrol boxer engines or turbo diesel cars 10-40w regardless of the deal oil company made with an car company. Few things to consider offcourse is if a vehicle fitted with a dpf, you may have to avoid small trips thats all!
Hello Christian and Vera, great video guys very entertaining as always. I am using 5W-40 on my 2010 LR4 V8 5.0 petrol engine for about 3 years now and no problems to report about that. I just replaced the engine valve covers and gaskets, spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, engine belts, thermostat, engine oil and filter, and radiator coolant. All very easy to do, but removing the original fuel injectors was a real problem and a pain. Next on the schedule would be the transfers case oil change, thanks for the video. Take care and stay safe. Onax
@@fredbrackely Yeap, I had the same problem. The usual Land Rover oil leak on the passenger side and the driver side was fine. But I went ahead and did both as I did not want to do it again in the future. To remove the fuel injectors get the special tool because those are a pain. My LR4 is running like new again, now it feels like the V-8 5.0 has new life, 142 MPH on the autobahn no sweat and I pull back on the gas pedal simply because I wanted.
I remember you saying that premature was not a good word for us guys ! I say leave it in, enjoy your vacation then do it as part of the engine overhaul. Another great video. I’ve ordered the magnatec 5w-40 DPF version for my next oil change. I’m trusting you guys more than my own mechanic !!
I ordered a pump and I intend to change it this week. The big benefit is, that we all will learn if a cheap pump can really be the reason for low idle pressure and slow build up. Video will be out in 2-3 weeks because we got to fix the rear brakes first. Christian
Hello Christian and Vera! Thank you for leading me to this video. I am also experienced in automotive, but this is my first Diesel engine. I have done a lot of research on the DPF oils and can add a couple of things I've read from the manufacturers - with C1 and C4, they don't make it in a 5w40, only 5w30. I also don't want to criticize, but just bounce some ideas off of each other, that C3 is actually considered a mid-SAPS oil, not low-SAPS like C1 and C4 (C4 has the higher HTHS rating). I don't know if this was a mistake or not, but with LR calling for a low-SAPS engine oil, do you all have any concern over using a mid-SAPS oil in regard to the DPF clogging over time?
@@TobiasCat-nb9lg This sounds like you are talking about gasoline spec though, which of course any oil could be interchangeable. I understand some oils will better protect the engine, but my concern about this post is clogging the DPF with mid-SAPS when the spec calls for low SAPS.
Once again, I firmly believe you made a good decision. What would really make this more interesting is, if you haven't disposed of the old 5W-30, you could get a small sample (100 ml or so) for a used oil analysis and do the same with the 5W-40 after 2 oil changes with the same oil for consistency purposes. One suggestion I would make though is to replace air filters as opposed to blowing them out with compressed air. Part of this is because the filter media is not designed for the type of air pressure you would see out of an air compressor. The other being, you cannot clean the filter out completely and end up loosening dirt that could make it's way into the intake when the filter is put back in service. This could also show up as elevated silicone levels in a used oil analysis. With that being said, considering the South African A3/B4 recommendation, which is essentially a full SAPS oil, you could take that up a notch and use a heavy duty engine oil that's has an ACEA E7 rating with a much more robust additive package than any other regular oil. Something like Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 comes to mind. As for the differential, 75W-140 is a great choice. Yes, fuel economy may take a slight hit, but in the grand scheme of things, offers better protection for your gears. I notice you also used vollsynthetisch labelled oil, which in Germany means it's POA based, making it an even better choice!
Thanks for the feedback. I thought about a oil analysis but I would not be able to interpret the data. The air filter was only 8 month old and this is why I put it back in. I only checked if there was dust using a air gun. It was not my intention to clean the filter. Talk to you see Cagri, Christian
Hello Vera and Christian, great video as always. I like the fact that you always explain clearly your actions. You should work for Land Rover as their technical adviser.
My understanding is that different oil viscosity can be used depending on ambient temperature. Probably not the case so much with modern oils, but likely why landrover may have specified 5w40 in South Africa and 30 in germany.
good job every sunday !!! it s like my wife, much things to do !!! The prius ,the land ,the Pajero, the wood , garden ,house, birth incoming in July !!! But we are alive , so enjoy !!Best Regards from Burgundy
Yes you are correct about the engine not being worn out between services. Your cheap oil pump seems to be the concern from what you are telling us, genuine pump only in my book…..but thats only my opinion. It seems there is a pattern here, the HP fuel pump was a concern too after replacing it, the new pump cured the concern.
Prefilling of oil filters mean to introduce a cup of unfiltered oil into the engine when starting. Caterpillar does not allow this procedure to avoid any oil contamination during oil change. Of course in the quiet atmosphere of a home garage it seems different but better safe than sorry.
You do good work and explain your work very well. I must admit I cringe everytime I see those certain green bottles. Had to recondition many engines for a particular manufacturer that exclusively use this oil. They may have improved their formula but after many engine failures due this particular oil I recommended going to a oil brand we used on all engines. Problem solved never seen those again for those problems. Hello from 🇦🇺
OMG - I vote to the replace the oil pump now before any premature wear to your engine. And do a full engine out rebuild in the autumn! Loving your videos on a Sunday 🙂
I use Shell Ultra 5w40 in my LR4 and LR3 (before I sold it with 320 000 km) The Discovery 4 now have just over 200 000 km and I did change all the other oils ( I also used the Liqui Moly 75w140 in both diffs and the Ravenol in the transfer case , including the gearbox ( ZF did the change) I am very interested in the App and they way you reset the service light...More info on that will be appreciated. Johan- Cape Town
Hi Johan, There is a way i found on the web, just google reset service light and I got a result something in the order of open bonnet, open driver door, ignition on but engine not running and pressing the brake and fuel down for 60s if I remember correctly...
I love watching you too you make a good pairing if I was you I would replace the oil pump and if it's possible check the main bearings on the crankshaft keep doing your thing I love watching you on Sunday morning
Another great video 👍 Christian you could make changing an Air filter video worth watching 😆 as for the oil pressure issue, I would definitely look at changing the oil pump now to help with future diagnosis of the pressure problem.
Breakfast time viewing as always here in Australia 🇦🇺 Great video as always thanks 🙏🏼 If you order a service kit you will get all new filters including the air conditioning filters for the cabin just replace the filters I only blow filters if I really need to especially when I’ve been off road!
Tip. I hate removing oil drain plugs because (a) they a habit of dropping into the used oil, and (b) I often get a squirt of oil down the sleeve of my overall. I installed an oil drain valve some years ago and it's great - really quick and no mess.
Another top video. I am going to change to 5w40 on the next service. I do a fair amount of short runs for work and the school run here in the UK. QUESTION? For a while now I have had a small amount of oil pooling ontop of the oil cooler on my D4. We know its not leaking oil but the tech said it is likely to be vapour from around all the hoses in and around the throttle body. Could the 5w30 be getting so thin it escapes past seals? The cooler is good and the plastic filter housing is not cracked. MY2010.
Hello Christian . If your worry is the HTHS , there are 5w-30 C3 oils . Going from C2 to C3 there is a significant difference and makes sense. Going from 5w-30 to 5w-40 ... for sure will not hurt but not benefit much either... Engine oils - never run out of arguments 🙂 L.E. Since it would be crazy to have a D4 as the only vehicle in the family I also own a small Toyota hybrid bought from new. Despite the fact that the owner manual and all official documentation states 0w-20 oil should be used, at the annual inspection, dealers from Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg all put in 5w-30. And I don't think it is because of the hot climate :) . I even asked why they do this, the answer was invariable - for better protection, that the 0w-20 trades protection for fuel efficiency and they don't even bother to have it on stock.
The trend to save fuel this way is bad. OEM s will do anything to officially reduce fuel consumption. At the end, it does not save much at all. W20 oil should be banned 😂😬. Christian
You are olon a contentious subject! There are endless arguments here on YT on this subject. I also have opinions. Firstly one needs to bear with that the manufacturer does not care about longevity (quite the opposite) but they do care about emission certification and warranty claims. So they will specify a grade of oil that ticks both boxes - lowest possible drag, consistent with low claims due lubrication failure. Also the additve packages have changed. Zinc is excellent anti wear agent but it poisons catalytic converters, so it was replaced with poor substitutes. Beyond that it is up to the owner to choose the right oil for the conditions they are driving in. I'm in South Africa where we have extremes. I have seen - 12c before dawn and +34 by midday in winter and in summer +52c at the same location. The handbook for my old Landcruiser may say 10w-30 but I use 5w-40 and am extremely gentle until up to temperature on cold mornings.
Thanks for the info and feedback out of South Africa. We also got extreme conditions here. Check our next video at the end scenes. I revel the big secret why I drive a Discovery 4 and not a What Cruiser. Christian
Your videos are the highlight of my TH-cam week! Thank you! I had a thought ( which doesn't happen very often, and when it does, is normally not very impressive) but, isn't your aftermarket oil pressure guage causing your pressure problem?
Hello Sean, I also tried a direct mounted oil gauge. Not the best one either but it does read higher on my LR4... Yes, the chineese electrical gauge sucks. Christian
The trend for large volume American engines is smaller, less surface area oil filters. The idea is that their efficiency increases at a higher rate over time than larger, older oil filter designs.
I love your Toyota banter😂. I'm seriously torn between a disco 4 and a lc5 land cruiser. My thinking is this; Toyota= less insurance costs(for me at least, Outstanding reliability; Great resale prices even at 300k miles; Service once a year whether it needs it or not😂. D4= more refined drive and quieter; Cheaper parts(because you need them) ; Better looking vehicle : Oil change once a month to try my best at keeping it running; Off road both are very capable machines. Not sure what to do?
You two on You tube , very funny have better British humour than many Brits I know , you must have watched Black Adder at some point, so not being a Land Rover driver but you are making me somewhat interested in this vehicle , can’t afford new so which model and series would you advise myself to start to look at keeping in mind not as talented as your with knowledge and mechanical minded as yourself. Wow you two make my soul smile.
In my LR 3 V8 4.4 I use Castrol 5w30 however i then add STP oil treatment and it makes a huge difference to the engine sound (much smoother). Not sure what others think of STP versus Liqui Molly.
landrover has been turning drivers into Mechanics for 70 years why stop now LOL and who wants a Toyota not me Land rovers all the way, thanks for the video .
😂
Christian and Vera, you should be Land Rover’s chief engineers, then we would have Land Rover products more reliable than Toyota. Every day is a school day and your videos are living proof of that, no matter how big or small. Excellent 👌
Hi, I’m an ex D3 and D4 owner, fantastic cars. I am now a Toyota owner after over 30 years of owning Land Rovers. Your Toyota comments are so funny, it’s true, they just work without any issues. I went to Toyota because I just didn’t have the time to keep up with the constant repairs and high maintenance with the Land Rovers. I really miss the Discovery 4 though, but now I have a life and money in the bank!
Great content, although I’ve gone over to the dark side I’ll still be sticking around with you guys, great and unique channel, you make a great team.
What toyota have you got? Do they make a 7 seater??
@@rikstar. Hi, I have a Hilux and a CH-R. The Land Cruiser has a seven seat option.
You two make a great comedic duo. Love your work.
I will borrow Vera’s words today… OMG 🤣🤣🤣 I have changed the oil to 5W40 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!! 😱😱😱😱😱😱
My Disco now runs quieter, smoother, balanced. It’s impressive the difference it makes. I’m committed to make my Disco last longer than a Toyota 😜😜😜😜
THANK YOU guys for the time taken to research and test this!!!! I’m so happy I followed your advice!!! 🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻🏋🏻
Last longer than a toyota😂😂😂😂😂. You could run a landcruser without oil and it would last longer than the LR 😂.
And you're trolling a Landrover post tut tut@@sliderdriver1
Land Rover are the leading experts in making changes that cost more and are worse from a structural or reliability standpoint compared to their previous variants. I can confirm this as a long time owner from RRC, Series and original Defender.
Just changed the 5wdumbass oil in my 2011 Range Rover Sport for 5w40 C3 and the first thing I noticed is the engine is noticeably quieter! Makes sense, but didn't really expect it, so a nice little bonus. 121k miles (200k km) on the clock now, so hopefully this change will keep it running smooth for many more years. Thank you guys, und vielen dank! 🙂
“It’s not leaking, it’s shiney”. That is beautiful!
Definitely check your oil pressure with a hydraulic gauge, could be your Chinese one is, god for bid, faulty. No video is boring with you both in it, always entertaining and informative
We do that, I am sure it's in one of our vidoes. We put a gauge on the schrader valve and tape it to the front window. 👍🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian hey you two. Do you have a link to the video for this please? Thank you.
@@paulfurness4888 best check out „engine oil and oilpump“ playlist. It should be there.👍🙋♀️
Hi Christian, I bought my 2016 Disco 4 in July this year and about 2 wks ago, I got Service Required indication came up. I saw your video. You changed to 5w40 oli on Disco 3, and I, too, was going to change to 5w40. But my 3.0 SDV6 has start/stop, dpf filter and Adblue, I kind of chickened out fearing it may cause engine problems and used 5w30 oil(landrover Jaguar specification) and You were right in saying that 5w30 oil is just like pouring water, it's so thin and it worried me, if this watery oil would be sufficient enough to keep engine parts well lubricated. Then I added ZX1 Lube Oil, which is protection/friction free lubricant for essential engine parts. After doing the service, my God what a difference that ZX1 Lube oli made. The engine runs very quiet and silky smooth and on top of it the best thing happened is that I used to get with normal driving 26 mpg and now I'm get nearly 28.7 mpg. I'm delighted. But I think I'll switch to 5w40 on my next service.
You can change the oil ‘weight’ dependent on climate and session… a oil suitable for Finland is going to be different to Africa, the operating temperature ranges are vastly different. People get to hung up on ‘what the manual says’, it’s a guide. The additive package and quality of the oil is what peopled should focus on.
oil weight is directly proportional to its mass !
The operating temp will be very close. The engines have a cooling system with a thermostat for a reason......
@@sheilamorrison1954you would think they would closely match but they don’t, data logging shows oil temperatures lag behaving water temps a lot, partly due to localised heating of the coolant in the heads around the exhaust ports plus the coolant temp sensor normally being located in the coolant path between the head and radiator. Oil temps take so much more time and miles to get to operating temperatures than anyone expects especially on cold days where oil might not actually get to temp for most journeys. This delta can be as large as 20-30 minutes or more!
Engine wear is in the equation also.
Wider tolerances in a worn engine will need a ticker oil than when the engine was new⚠️
Another great video, I have watched for 18 months now and enjoyed every one. I couldn't believe I did not think to put 5w-40 in my own Disco 3 but within a week of you doing Vera's I did mine, I have changed the oil pump (and belts) twice on my 176000 mile (not Euro KM,s) and the engine runs very quiet and smooth in fact previously I had a Discovery Sport with the same engine with only 60000 mile on it and that engine was defiantly louder than my Disco.
Anyway we all know just regular engine oil changes will prolong the life of any engine I usually go no longer than 3-6 thousand miles between oil changes. I changed the oil after your oil change but also I added Wynns additive which has the consistency of honey (as used by Derick on Vice Grip Garage) which I have used over the years. So heading towards a quarter million miles (hopefully) unless you would like to do an engine refirb for me Christian lol that was a great series of videos. Keep up the fantastic content all the best Phil and Louise
I've just switched my 2006 D3 2.7TDV6 with 230,000k's from 5W-30 to 5W-40 fully synthetic Castrol edge a3/b4 🤫🤞🏻 I live in Australia where my temps vary from -7c to 40c depending on the season. I tow horses often and love the car even thought the gearbox I'd Crap!!!! I love your show and watch it often. Thank you 🥰❤️💯👌😎
2.7 and 3.0 hdi engine was originally designed for 5W-40 and then due to marketing and idea of less internal friction and lower fuel consumption changed to 5W-30. Than suddenly in Norway we had maby engine failures related to oil because it showed that 5W-30 brake apart by oil shreading and high tempts just over 5000 km. I would reccomend 5W-40 quarc 9000 total ineo. Magnatec oil you showed is branded as synthetic but its actually semi synthetic with esters.
Good point about the oil. Since new, I have used 5W-30 oils, but recently as the engine is ever-so-slightly tired, I put in a hefty squirt of gear oil! That quietened it down nicely, and SEEMS to have improved compression & starting. So 5W40 is the way to go. (Also, I have been using an anti friction additive Activ-8 in my engines for years, greatly reduces wear in the long run.) Good vid, thanks.
Hi what weight of gear oil did you use & roughly how much of a squirt,300ml,500ml ?
@@chrisparsons771180w-90 gear oil; probably only about 100ml, just to see how it goes. I don't want to increase the internal friction unnecessarily. Crude, I admit!
I am doing an oil change next week on my D3 with 5W-40 C3 Yes! thanks so much for the tips and videos on how to do it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Replace oil pump now to make sure that is the reason for low oil pressure before you pull the engine 😊
The chances the low oil pressure is due to the oil pump is low. At the end of the day, the oil pump creates flow. Pressure is achieved with the bearings.
Arh. I think you already have the answer Christian. Swop out the pump now so you can rule it out or in as the fault. Very entertaining video again. Love your German logic.
Regarding the oil pump..
If in doubt..? whip it out..
I loved the Land Rovers when I was a trainee technician coz they always gave me work to do, especially the Range Rovers
The most entertaining oil change video ever .
My vote is for changing the oil pump as soon as possible for Vera's piece of mind.
I like how the Mall Crawler caught lunch for you like a cat , bringing you a present for being nice to it lol
I love your sense of humour about Toyota owners.
Cheers from Australia
you two are a couple or wonderful characters, love the entertainment value of the video but also appreciate that you pass along much technical information. If it were my decision I would opt to replace the oil pump ASAP because it is essential to the engine. Could be when you do the replace you will find some other problem that was causing loss of pressure or lack of oil feed to the pump? Whatever the case I see it as a problem that needs solving sooner than later because you are risking accelerated wear....even in just the summer months interval.
My eyes have been opened with regard to oil types. My wife's 2007 Camry was the subject of oil use issues that some thought should result in a recall and engine repair or replacement. You may not know, but Toyota would test the oil consumption by filling to the proper level and then "sealing" the system. They would recheck the level after the owner drove the car 1000 miles and brought it back to the dealer again. Toyota would not repair an engine unless it used over 1 quart of oil in 1000 miles. During the effective time of the tests (age and mileage), her car did not consume oil. Later on, it began using a great deal of oil - possibly half the capacity - between oil changes. For some reason, I felt I could not use oil other than the type (5W20) marked on the oil filler cap. A friend suggested I try another weight oil to see if it helped with the consumption. I switched to 10W40 oil, and the oil consumption practically stopped. This seems to have allowed us to use the car for another 50,000 or more miles so far - beyond what seemed to be where it was worn out, based on oil consumption. In some cases, the dealer is not going to help with a problem, and you have nothing to lose by trying something the dealer does not recommend.
Oil Cap viscosity markings are to satisfy the EPA. It is not, usually for the health of the engine. And yes, 5/20 whether in a mazda, toyota, honda or Ford, GM, Chrysler.... They do burn quick. So the 30s and 40s are better when at operating temps. If you do live in the colder parts of the US, i would suggest a 5/40 vs a 10/40 for better cold starts....but remains the same when hot. (in Alaska, u may require to go 0/40 vsa 5/40)
Excellent Sunday morning video as always. I would replace the oil pump with an OEM one from LR. However, I am also looking forward to some more excellent engine out videos in the future. Land-Rover proudly turning owners into mechanics since 1948
Great overview on the service on both of your Land Rovers.. love the banter between you guys.. thank god you speak very good English.. I must say most us lazy Brits only speak English.. great channel.. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This was the most fun video of oil change and maintenance I've seen in a while. Love the banter and comments between you two and the maintenance being performed. 👍🏻
Your graphic is perfect. Love that.
I have a 1993 Range Rover Classic petrol. I upgraded my oil to 20w50. Manual calls for 10w40. But using the right oil for the right climate matters. Love the videos. You two crack me up.
Also it depends how worn the engine is.
Unipart used to suggest thinner oils for newer engines and thicker for older ⚠️
Thank you so much for this step-by-step instruction for an oil change. I just made the first oil change on my new old LR4 and it worked out perfectly. Btw I used a pizza cardboard from a supermarket pizza which I placed over this frame as a shield which made the oil run smoothly into the bucket. Not a single drop spilled 🙂
Now every search I do on yt for my landrover I add LR Time and I know I am seeing a very good and informative video. 👍
I vote for an early replacement of the oil pump. That way you will know for sure the problem was with the pump and not fixed through any other changes as part of the rebuild. Thanks for the video, I learned a few things from it.
Hello from USA (Michigan)! I just discovery you both today. I like that you have fun with each other and when you explain things! Very nice!!
😀🙏We lived in Michigan for almost 10 years, in Rochester Hills. 🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian That's where I live!! 🙂
My 2012 D4 sump bash plate has 13mm head bolts the same as the D3. I suspect the previous owner / LR garage gorilla rounded off the 13mm heads and replaced them with whatever they had to hand. Your torx head bolts actually look like seat bracket bolts. I also use a Femco quick drain on the drain hole, and I also use the suction tube. Well done for finding the reason for the differences in the oil filter, I have often wondered, but never investigated. I have used 5w40 in my D3 in the past when it was working a lot in the south of France. I currently use 5w30 C2 PAS spec in my D4 but am considering changing to 5w40 C3
The D4 has vacuum supplied engine mounts, and if you see the actuator arms on EGR cooler valve are rattling, the vacuum pipe to the engine mounts is compromised. (My engine builder, Marko at QP Online) told me this.
I have used Ravenol STF 0870 for years, but now Ravenol tell me that The new RAVENOL Transfer Fluid DTF-1 replaces the RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870! I use a 5 litre garden pressure sprayer to fill my diffs, much easier than all that pumping. And I have found that fill to spill on the diffs and transfer box takes just under the measured amount of oil, so fill to spill it is.
My cost per km on my 320,000km D4 for the last 215,000km is €0.21/km including a full engine rebuild due to a snapped crankshaft at 198,000km.
You can reuse your copper washer again, it work hardens. But It's just a matter of glowing it with a blowtorch to make the copper soft again. And C4 oil is only available as 5W-30.
Just to clarify a few points: D4 engine bash plate uses the same bolts as a D3, somebody has changed them to torque. Not all world regions have a DPF fitted to the D4 (no DPF on the D4 in Australia) I actually don't agree with blowing out air filter, simply replace it. I recommend to all my customers to do a service every 10K changing engine oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter. At the end of the day the best thing you can do to an engine is change the oil on a regular basis. While I am certainly not a Land Rover fan boy remember that the V6 2.7 and 3.0 is a rubbish Ford engine. I'm a small workshop and I have probably done at least 30 engine replacements on both the D3 and D4. Saying that I can show many D4 models that have over 300K and running well. As always keep up the fun videos.
Christian is right the change of oil from 5w30 to 5 w40 is due to global warming, a few years ago the winter was colder in Germany, now Christian can even afford to cut less wood for heating because the harsh winters have disappeared. Nice video thank you. 😎😎😎
😅👍 I had my oven running until last week. 🙋♀️Vera
That's called weather. Stick around long enough and you'll realise that it's different every year. 😉
Surely in South Africa the temperature is a lot hotter than Germany/Europe. That’s why they run 5w40 instead of using 5w30 like we do here in Europe.
Great video 👍🏻
Running 5W40 C-3 in my 4.4 SDV8 L405. Thanks for doing the leg work.
These videos make my week 👍and as an English man who owns a defender I can say this video sums up completely why the U.K gave the world Land-rover and Germany gave us Mercedes Benz😂😂
Please change oil pump now it will be cheaper in the long run . You both are a pleasure to watch .
Christian and Vera fantastic entertainment and video presentation,that engine of yours is so clean inside from your oil change))) 🇬🇧❤️
Thank you for sharing this experience. It was a pleasure to watch you.
I wouldn’t change that oil pump yet but keep monitoring it closely. Also, make sure to keep us posted on that JLR business meeting!
They make a great team and a great couple.very entertaining
I think you're wonderful for divulging you're information and understanding of oil and how it can drastically affect the life of the engine under extreme loads and so on. I thank you both for being so helpful and entertaining, best regards and have a great weekend...PS keep clicking that torque wrench, Alan Millyard does a similar thing with a hacksaw and hand sawing everything when he has other perfectly good tool that can do the job in a tenth of the time, it amuse him and me, also he has a mad channel on motor bikes and is rather eccentric, you may find him entertaining, I know i do!
I really like to see you. they are a very funny couple with good energy .. big hug and kiss from portugal.
😃👍We'll come down to Portugal one day. 🙋♀️Vera
😂😂Cracking up, what a hoot of a channel. I’m now a subscriber and it will be my Sunday night viewing complete with beer and chips. Great work, from Oz 🇦🇺
Heh Christian, I presume JLR are meeting with you to discuss establishing that "Centre of Excellence for Quality and Reliability" in your garage. Yes?
It will be a fascinating meeting I am sure. Well done. Best wishes to Vera. I enjoy your work so much.
You do better than i, after working on all my cars the Land Rover makes me want to bang my head on the work bench some times. Still loving you videos
😅👍🙋♀️Vera
I work on a German car brand in Australia, I just wish the manufacturer had a sense of humour like you two!
Hi guys, cracking channel, the oil drain pan you don't like to use because you can't check for metallic particles I use all the time, however I put a gauze inside the hole that lets the oil through but collects any bits of metal that's in the oil and I don't have to search the old with a magnet, my wife is not best pleased, I used her flour sieve for the gauze, keep on keeping on guys.
In the US the ford f150 diesel has the same engine basically and almost everyone including ford dealers uses 5w40 HDEO oil, ford sells the magic 5w30 oil under their own label but from what I gather they advise for severe duty to use 5w40 ACEA E9 oil.
5w-40 on all diesel no exception is what I use on all diesel, help with fuel/oil dilution, oil sheering, oil pressure and oil consumption.
I do the same, always have done and always buy Diesel specific engine oil.
I have run Toyota 4x4's for decades, in the handbook the range of approved oils is huge depending on typical local ambient temperature, am yet to have any issues with any of them save a failed alternator once.
I liked your reaction about he oil filter size differences.
Totally agree with you but I have a super solution for this little issue.
Just use the oil filter and the top housing from LR3 and install it on your LR4.
The only difference is that the earlier model has a higher housing top by 5 ish cm
Watching back some of your older videos. Very useful knowledge presented in a light hearted way which makes it easy to watch. Glad to see the support for your channel continue to grow ( I can tell by the length of the Patreon roll) Keep up the good work.... we Discovery owners need the backup.😁😁👨🔧👩🔧
Yes, without our wonderful Patrons we not be doing TH-cam videos anymore. 👍🙋♀️
Landrover has a long history of speccing oil that barely works for its products.. You know like atf in manual gearboxes etc.. ....love your video guys....
Vera, tell Christian that the only way you're going to let him wait until winter to replace the oil pump is if he buys a replacement engine that can be fitted immediately in the event of a catastrophic failure.
I suspect the reason Christian isn't in a rush to fix it is because he thinks there's some other problem and a new oil pump won't help.
If that IS correct, and the engine requires a major rebuild, the cost of buying a new oil pump is going to be insignificant compared to the cost of rebuilding the engine so it won't really matter if you try a new oil pump before starting more major work.
As they've all said, another good video,now Vera got the new oil pump, there's only one thing left to do haha, another interesting set to watch,thanks again guys
Hey guys, randomly ended up here from vw touareg videos,
5w 30 only good for early stage of vehicle life i personally have always ran petrol boxer engines or turbo diesel cars 10-40w regardless of the deal oil company made with an car company.
Few things to consider offcourse is if a vehicle fitted with a dpf, you may have to avoid small trips thats all!
Hello Christian and Vera, great video guys very entertaining as always. I am using 5W-40 on my 2010 LR4 V8 5.0 petrol engine for about 3 years now and no problems to report about that. I just replaced the engine valve covers and gaskets, spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, engine belts, thermostat, engine oil and filter, and radiator coolant. All very easy to do, but removing the original fuel injectors was a real problem and a pain. Next on the schedule would be the transfers case oil change, thanks for the video. Take care and stay safe.
Onax
I'm about to do the engine valve cover gaskets myself. I have a small oil leak on the passenger side bank.
@@fredbrackely Yeap, I had the same problem. The usual Land Rover oil leak on the passenger side and the driver side was fine. But I went ahead and did both as I did not want to do it again in the future. To remove the fuel injectors get the special tool because those are a pain. My LR4 is running like new again, now it feels like the V-8 5.0 has new life, 142 MPH on the autobahn no sweat and I pull back on the gas pedal simply because I wanted.
I remember you saying that premature was not a good word for us guys ! I say leave it in, enjoy your vacation then do it as part of the engine overhaul. Another great video. I’ve ordered the magnatec 5w-40 DPF version for my next oil change. I’m trusting you guys more than my own mechanic !!
😅👍 🙋♀️Vera
I ordered a pump and I intend to change it this week. The big benefit is, that we all will learn if a cheap pump can really be the reason for low idle pressure and slow build up. Video will be out in 2-3 weeks because we got to fix the rear brakes first. Christian
Hello Christian and Vera! Thank you for leading me to this video. I am also experienced in automotive, but this is my first Diesel engine. I have done a lot of research on the DPF oils and can add a couple of things I've read from the manufacturers - with C1 and C4, they don't make it in a 5w40, only 5w30. I also don't want to criticize, but just bounce some ideas off of each other, that C3 is actually considered a mid-SAPS oil, not low-SAPS like C1 and C4 (C4 has the higher HTHS rating). I don't know if this was a mistake or not, but with LR calling for a low-SAPS engine oil, do you all have any concern over using a mid-SAPS oil in regard to the DPF clogging over time?
@@TobiasCat-nb9lg This sounds like you are talking about gasoline spec though, which of course any oil could be interchangeable. I understand some oils will better protect the engine, but my concern about this post is clogging the DPF with mid-SAPS when the spec calls for low SAPS.
Danke für das Video. Gute und wichtige Informationen, die zum Werterhalt des Disco beitragen.
Another excellent video 🙂.
Change the oil pump now , just to be sure.
My Sunday ritual, watching Christian and Vera 🙌
Thanks. Christian
If you reuse a copper washer re-anneal it so it’s soft again 👍
Once again, I firmly believe you made a good decision. What would really make this more interesting is, if you haven't disposed of the old 5W-30, you could get a small sample (100 ml or so) for a used oil analysis and do the same with the 5W-40 after 2 oil changes with the same oil for consistency purposes.
One suggestion I would make though is to replace air filters as opposed to blowing them out with compressed air. Part of this is because the filter media is not designed for the type of air pressure you would see out of an air compressor. The other being, you cannot clean the filter out completely and end up loosening dirt that could make it's way into the intake when the filter is put back in service. This could also show up as elevated silicone levels in a used oil analysis.
With that being said, considering the South African A3/B4 recommendation, which is essentially a full SAPS oil, you could take that up a notch and use a heavy duty engine oil that's has an ACEA E7 rating with a much more robust additive package than any other regular oil. Something like Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 comes to mind.
As for the differential, 75W-140 is a great choice. Yes, fuel economy may take a slight hit, but in the grand scheme of things, offers better protection for your gears. I notice you also used vollsynthetisch labelled oil, which in Germany means it's POA based, making it an even better choice!
That’s some good info!
Thanks for the feedback. I thought about a oil analysis but I would not be able to interpret the data. The air filter was only 8 month old and this is why I put it back in. I only checked if there was dust using a air gun. It was not my intention to clean the filter. Talk to you see Cagri, Christian
It’s interesting, I think Mobil Delvac will be the best solution under operating conditions in Russia. In my region it’s +40 C, and in winter -40 C
Hello Vera and Christian, great video as always. I like the fact that you always explain clearly your actions. You should work for Land Rover as their technical adviser.
I love your video content but even if it's not so good Vera smile brightens everybody's day
😊🙏Thank you 🙋♀️Vera
You guys make a great team and lovely couple
My understanding is that different oil viscosity can be used depending on ambient temperature. Probably not the case so much with modern oils, but likely why landrover may have specified 5w40 in South Africa and 30 in germany.
good job every sunday !!! it s like my wife, much things to do !!! The prius ,the land ,the Pajero, the wood , garden ,house, birth incoming in July !!! But we are alive , so enjoy !!Best Regards from Burgundy
Jean, if you work through lunch, the day has 25h! Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian lol thanks!!!
Yes you are correct about the engine not being worn out between services.
Your cheap oil pump seems to be the concern from what you are telling us, genuine pump only in my book…..but thats only my opinion.
It seems there is a pattern here, the HP fuel pump was a concern too after replacing it, the new pump cured the concern.
Always used 5W40 A3/B4 in my Ford Territory SZ here in Australia. No issues in over100K KM.
Yup, the Ford Territory 2.7 litre TDV6 engine (similar to Discovery 3) is not equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter, so no need for ACEA C oils.
Prefilling of oil filters mean to introduce a cup of unfiltered oil into the engine when starting. Caterpillar does not allow this procedure to avoid any oil contamination during oil change. Of course in the quiet atmosphere of a home garage it seems different but better safe than sorry.
You do good work and explain your work very well. I must admit I cringe everytime I see those certain green bottles. Had to recondition many engines for a particular manufacturer that exclusively use this oil. They may have improved their formula but after many engine failures due this particular oil I recommended going to a oil brand we used on all engines. Problem solved never seen those again for those problems. Hello from 🇦🇺
OMG - I vote to the replace the oil pump now before any premature wear to your engine. And do a full engine out rebuild in the autumn! Loving your videos on a Sunday 🙂
Great video as always. Replace that oil pump you know it's the right thing to do.
Haha just discovered this channel, I don't own a rover but I love the sense of humour.
Poor berrdy… love you guys.
I just did 190,000 miles in my TD4 oil changed every 6000, never let me down, just drove Ancona to Ville dieu les poiles . No problems.
💪👍🙋♀️Vera
Definitely replace the oil pump now. Don't risk running low oil pressure for any longer 👍happy wife, happy life and in this case a happy Tdv6 😎
Evening Vera and Christian 🤩 Another full of humour with good technical information video on your LR 🤣 x
I use Shell Ultra 5w40 in my LR4 and LR3 (before I sold it with 320 000 km) The Discovery 4 now have just over 200 000 km and I did change all the other oils ( I also used the Liqui Moly 75w140 in both diffs and the Ravenol in the transfer case , including the gearbox ( ZF did the change)
I am very interested in the App and they way you reset the service light...More info on that will be appreciated.
Johan- Cape Town
Hi Johan, There is a way i found on the web, just google reset service light and I got a result something in the order of open bonnet, open driver door, ignition on but engine not running and pressing the brake and fuel down for 60s if I remember correctly...
I love watching you too you make a good pairing if I was you I would replace the oil pump and if it's possible check the main bearings on the crankshaft keep doing your thing I love watching you on Sunday morning
That is the plan, when we change the oil pump, to remove the sump and check the bearings. 💪👍🙋♀️Vera
Moi aussi je voudrais un autocollant 👍👍👍meilleur chaîne de mécanique discovery 3/4 au monde 💪💪💪
Thanks for the video, those fluid changes look easy to do!
I'd vote for changing the oil pump sooner than later.
Another great video 👍 Christian you could make changing an Air filter video worth watching 😆 as for the oil pressure issue, I would definitely look at changing the oil pump now to help with future diagnosis of the pressure problem.
Breakfast time viewing as always here in Australia 🇦🇺
Great video as always thanks 🙏🏼
If you order a service kit you will get all new filters including the air conditioning filters for the cabin just replace the filters I only blow filters if I really need to especially when I’ve been off road!
Tip. I hate removing oil drain plugs because (a) they a habit of dropping into the used oil, and (b) I often get a squirt of oil down the sleeve of my overall. I installed an oil drain valve some years ago and it's great - really quick and no mess.
I would change now, you know first hand how much work and money it takes when the engine goes boom 🤯👍
Another top video. I am going to change to 5w40 on the next service. I do a fair amount of short runs for work and the school run here in the UK. QUESTION? For a while now I have had a small amount of oil pooling ontop of the oil cooler on my D4. We know its not leaking oil but the tech said it is likely to be vapour from around all the hoses in and around the throttle body. Could the 5w30 be getting so thin it escapes past seals? The cooler is good and the plastic filter housing is not cracked. MY2010.
Hello Christian .
If your worry is the HTHS , there are 5w-30 C3 oils . Going from C2 to C3 there is a significant difference and makes sense. Going from 5w-30 to 5w-40 ... for sure will not hurt but not benefit much either... Engine oils - never run out of arguments 🙂
L.E.
Since it would be crazy to have a D4 as the only vehicle in the family I also own a small Toyota hybrid bought from new. Despite the fact that the owner manual and all official documentation states 0w-20 oil should be used, at the annual inspection, dealers from Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg all put in 5w-30. And I don't think it is because of the hot climate :) . I even asked why they do this, the answer was invariable - for better protection, that the 0w-20 trades protection for fuel efficiency and they don't even bother to have it on stock.
The trend to save fuel this way is bad. OEM s will do anything to officially reduce fuel consumption. At the end, it does not save much at all. W20 oil should be banned 😂😬. Christian
You are olon a contentious subject!
There are endless arguments here on YT on this subject.
I also have opinions.
Firstly one needs to bear with that the manufacturer does not care about longevity (quite the opposite) but they do care about emission certification and warranty claims.
So they will specify a grade of oil that ticks both boxes - lowest possible drag, consistent with low claims due lubrication failure.
Also the additve packages have changed. Zinc is excellent anti wear agent but it poisons catalytic converters, so it was replaced with poor substitutes.
Beyond that it is up to the owner to choose the right oil for the conditions they are driving in.
I'm in South Africa where we have extremes.
I have seen - 12c before dawn and +34 by midday in winter and in summer +52c at the same location. The handbook for my old Landcruiser may say 10w-30 but I use 5w-40 and am extremely gentle until up to temperature on cold mornings.
Thanks for the info and feedback out of South Africa. We also got extreme conditions here. Check our next video at the end scenes. I revel the big secret why I drive a Discovery 4 and not a What Cruiser. Christian
Your videos are the highlight of my TH-cam week! Thank you!
I had a thought ( which doesn't happen very often, and when it does, is normally not very impressive) but, isn't your aftermarket oil pressure guage causing your pressure problem?
Hello Sean, I also tried a direct mounted oil gauge. Not the best one either but it does read higher on my LR4... Yes, the chineese electrical gauge sucks. Christian
You guys are the greatest! Thanks for all your hard work!
This guy & his wife are fun and highly informative. Euro-Pros for sure 👍🏻👍🏻
🚙💨💨
The trend for large volume American engines is smaller, less surface area oil filters. The idea is that their efficiency increases at a higher rate over time than larger, older oil filter designs.
I love your Toyota banter😂. I'm seriously torn between a disco 4 and a lc5 land cruiser.
My thinking is this;
Toyota= less insurance costs(for me at least,
Outstanding reliability;
Great resale prices even at 300k miles;
Service once a year whether it needs it or not😂.
D4= more refined drive and quieter;
Cheaper parts(because you need them) ;
Better looking vehicle :
Oil change once a month to try my best at keeping it running;
Off road both are very capable machines.
Not sure what to do?
You two on You tube , very funny have better British humour than many Brits I know , you must have watched Black Adder at some point, so not being a Land Rover driver but you are making me somewhat interested in this vehicle , can’t afford new so which model and series would you advise myself to start to look at keeping in mind not as talented as your with knowledge and mechanical minded as yourself. Wow you two make my soul smile.
In my LR 3 V8 4.4 I use Castrol 5w30 however i then add STP oil treatment and it makes a huge difference to the engine sound (much smoother). Not sure what others think of STP versus Liqui Molly.
It‘s a V8 so no need to not go by the LR spec, like we do on the V6. We, however, do not use additives. 👍👌🙋♀️
Thanks . I always enjoy and learn from you.. and laugh as well.