That is one wonderful looking Tucano. Also great save with the diorama, in order to stop the dreaded tail sitting effect. To solve you issue with the weight to stop the tail sitting effect (for future builds of tricycle landing gear aircraft models). I'd recommend getting a cheap set of fishing weights/ fishing line sinkers. They really handy for stopping tail stitting and are also really handy if you want to pick up fishing as a hobby!
Great build and it's a great kit. I know I mentioned it in the live stream but for those who don't know the real aircraft was replaced by the beech craft /Raytheon T-6 Texan 11 which is an American licensed made copy of the Swiss Pilatus PC-9M.
@@ModelMinutes I think part of the reason it was replaced is the tucano can't carry weapons (not including the Brazilian Embraer super tucano which is a different aircraft which can carry weapons) where as the Pilatus PC-9M / Beech craft Raytheon T-6 Texan 11 was designed from the outset to have a secondary light strike ground attack role plus the endurance of the tucano with a full tank of fuel is only about an hour where as the PC-9M /Texan 11 has an endurance of about 3 hours on a full tank of gas.
I have to say that I have found your videos extremely helpful in furthering my own skillset in this hobby. The diorama base you made for this kit was the perfect thing for the 1:72 scale Tamyia Spitfire Mk.I that I am building for my grandfather to display next to a Gun Camera (from a Spitfire) that is in his rather large Camera Collection. I suspect I will be making a LOT of these smaller bases for my future fighters (and larger ones for Bombers) in the future.
@@ModelMinutes mate, i find myself referring to your videos often when doing various builds and have shared this video in particular with a modelling group I am in, specifically for the diorama base
The reason you are getting a rough finish on your varnish could be down to a few things. Your air pressure may be too high, or you may be holding the air brush too far from the model. (I suspect the latter, given what I could see in the vid) This causes the varnish to dry in mid air as its flying to the model, resulting in a rough finish. With gloss coats you want to spray them on quite heavy and wet... just before it starts to pool up. Hence working in bright light really helps to see whats happening. Using a specialised thinner rather than water will help too.. only a few quid. It is quite a fine art and notoriously difficult to get a smooth gloss coat. However, it is almost certainly not the airbrush itself. Luckily gloss coats can be polished down pretty well to improve the finish, either with a microfiber cloth or wet sand with very fine sandpaper. Also, never spray the canopy.
I won a flight in one with the Shorts Test Pilot with the Air Training Corps in Belfast. I have the same model to build but unfortunately I can’t find my log book to remember which airframe I flew in. But I still have a great memory of that day. So different from the Bulldog and Chipmunks we were used to. 😊 Thanks for the insight into the build. I’ll use this advice soon hopefully.
Show how old I am I remember Raymond Baxter in 1983 farnbourough air show on BBC1 those days when they showed it on a Sunday afternoon and there was a tender out for basic trainer this was one and three others one was I think built by Britton Normand the brief was also to have a hawk style cockpit now it’s been replaced wheres the time gone,great job with the kit I’ve too had to do some work on kits with I’ll fitting parts a TU 144 comes to mind I got in a nice little shop at west Drayton station some years ago ,doubt he’s still there ,all the best Mark
Good job - impromptu diorama time! I have a sheet of lead on hand for this sort of thing, but have certainly considered getting liquid gravity as others have mentioned. My dad has just finished another Tucano and this time managed to get it to sit correctly so it can be done!
Amazing Brazilian plane, so great almost everyone has/had at least one for training, and as if that wasn't enough it looks beautiful, I would recommend building a FAB EMB-314 Super Tucano sometime later just to add to the collection, I believe Hobby Boss has one.
Did you thin the Black paint? I know it's meant to be airbrush ready but I like to add a couple of drops of Vallejo flow improver and even a couple of drops of Vallejo airbrush thinner to their model air paints. I use a cheap 30 AUD ebay airbrush and it goes down nice and smooth when I do this. I did note when I used model air paint straight from the bottle it was a bit rough looking and tends to clog the airbrush.
thanks for the info, i dont recall thinning my paint in this one, it seemed to be ok straight out of the bottle, but perhaps i'll add a few drops next time
@@Kickback-dm7zt Found a preowned one of the Display Team Tucano for about £20. A bit steep by Matt's reckoning but I'm willing to pay that, though I'll need to get hold of some decals to turn it into a 72(R) Sqn Tucano 😊
Matt, ref gluing canopies. When you were building the XXX Dodge Charger I also watched the TH-cam channel World of Wayne do the same kit. He mentioned using Micro Krystal Klear glue for transparent parts as it apparently dries clear and avoids fogging. It seems to be similar to the decal solutions you use.. have you tried it?
Matt, just a though ref filler. I know you do a test fit first, so you probably know in advance where the gaps will be. Would it work to put the filler in /then/ so when the parts are glued and pressed together the filler expands and fills all the gaps? It would save faffing about afterwards with a cocktail stick. All you have to do then is let the glue and filler dry and sand off the excess.
An interesting idea but I fear that it could be quite messy without a great deal of care. It may also not work for some of the gaps due to the angles and things
Very good indeed Matt. Love the signature tune at the end who is that buy? Would like to know is possible it seemed to go very well with summing ove the build and implementation on its taxi plinth.
Nose-weights... I bought a tin of 500 airgun pellets around 5 yrs ago - price sticker on it says £3.49 - Still got around a hundred left. They weigh almost 1g each and can be squashed with pliers to fit anywhere there's a gap. I use 1 pellet per gram required, plus a little blu-tack to hold them, and job's a good-un.
Matt, ref the base. How about just scoring the lines you want for concrete slabs, then if necessary bend the card along the score lines if you want wider gaps. Flatten it out, glue it down, and all the gaps have to be equal :) That way you know in advance the base fits. Yep, I'm lazy *lol* PS if you do separate slabs, maybe a /slightly/ different shade to suggest a prior repair.
Interesting idea - i think this would only work on a model with a high part count already, because on smaller kits you would only end up leaving out a couple of parts
hey there , watching your videos helped me cope with the loss of my nan yesterday, is it possible to do a mulity colour amercain aircraft from ww2 please
Sorry to hear that Martin, my condolences. I have a Revell p47 with the two tone blue in the stash, but I might also have some other things as well. A lot of US aircraft kits just seem to feature schemes for bare metal which is a shame as there were some colourful ones
Quite ironic that the tooling is good, because the RAF's Short's built Tucanos are notorious for their liberal tolerances so that not only does not one quite feel the same to fly, but if you precisely line them up at one end on the flight line, you get a wiggly line with the other ends.
@@ModelMinutes I think that was the attraction for Short's and the Government over the RAF's preferred choice of the Pilatus PC9, because the PC9 was built like a 3rd and later generation aircraft, in being largely manufactured from precisely machined billet sections, whereas the Tucano was made like a Spitfire or a Hunter, out of hand fabricated and shaped parts from sheet and alloy tubes. This was how Belfasts and Skyvans had been built, and the situation being as it was in NI, it was better to spend money on employing people rather than CNC machine tools. The downside was that maintenance was a nightmare, everything even swapping out ejection seats would be complicated by these variation in tolerances, I recall at least one needing to be scrapped, when the RAF technicians swapping out a rear ejection seat concluded that due to the difficulty in getting the seat out due to numerous conflict with parts of the cockpit structure that was "different" than intended, they could not guarantee a safe ejection.
In the instructions www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/9/5/142695-55-instructions.pdf it says "Surfaces to be painted should be clean - before parts are removed from the sprue, wash in warm, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly". During the manufacture process various oils and things can get on the plastic, particularly mould release agents - these prevent the plastic sticking to the moulds but also stop paint from sticking to the plastic too. Washing the plastic parts gives a clean surface for cements and paints. Sometimes I don't bother, but if you watch my recent video about the Humbrol Gen2 paints you will see what happens when the plastic is oily.
@@ModelMinutes sorry again error on my. These are two separate questions, washing ok well covered. Re instructions, do you build from experience and instinct or actually read them? Bob
That is one wonderful looking Tucano. Also great save with the diorama, in order to stop the dreaded tail sitting effect. To solve you issue with the weight to stop the tail sitting effect (for future builds of tricycle landing gear aircraft models). I'd recommend getting a cheap set of fishing weights/ fishing line sinkers. They really handy for stopping tail stitting and are also really handy if you want to pick up fishing as a hobby!
Haha! Not sure I have time for fishing but I’ll look at getting something for nose weight 😂
Great build and it's a great kit. I know I mentioned it in the live stream but for those who don't know the real aircraft was replaced by the beech craft /Raytheon T-6 Texan 11 which is an American licensed made copy of the Swiss Pilatus PC-9M.
great info! :D
@@ModelMinutes you are very welcome Matt
@@ModelMinutes I think part of the reason it was replaced is the tucano can't carry weapons (not including the Brazilian Embraer super tucano which is a different aircraft which can carry weapons) where as the Pilatus PC-9M / Beech craft Raytheon T-6 Texan 11 was designed from the outset to have a secondary light strike ground attack role plus the endurance of the tucano with a full tank of fuel is only about an hour where as the PC-9M /Texan 11 has an endurance of about 3 hours on a full tank of gas.
@@ModelMinutes just got myself some matchbox kits (mostly for nostalgia reasons). 👍
Nice save with that little diorama to hide the tailsitting! Quite nicely tooled and very well built! I love all of your models :)
Thank you very much!
@@ModelMinutesyeah your work is amazing man
Looks great in black. Good work on the build!
Thanks! :D
What brand of airbrush do you use?
@@Kickback-dm7zt i was using the cheap one that came with my starter set compressor
I have to say that I have found your videos extremely helpful in furthering my own skillset in this hobby. The diorama base you made for this kit was the perfect thing for the 1:72 scale Tamyia Spitfire Mk.I that I am building for my grandfather to display next to a Gun Camera (from a Spitfire) that is in his rather large Camera Collection. I suspect I will be making a LOT of these smaller bases for my future fighters (and larger ones for Bombers) in the future.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
@@ModelMinutes mate, i find myself referring to your videos often when doing various builds and have shared this video in particular with a modelling group I am in, specifically for the diorama base
Lovely build, enjoyable to watch and now makes me want to pick one of these up myself!
Thanks very much 😊 I hope you enjoy if you do get one
Hello again from South Africa. Thanks Matt, much enjoyed. Take care
Thanks! You too!
For an old kit its not all that bad.... looks great in the black... and love you solution to the tail tipping :-) no one would ever know....
Haha! That was my hope! Apart from everyone who watches this video that is lol
Have built one of those a while ago and now seeing this one think I need another one.
it's not a bad kit on the whole
Definitely not. If you test your fitting properly is a very enjoyable build
The reason you are getting a rough finish on your varnish could be down to a few things.
Your air pressure may be too high, or you may be holding the air brush too far from the model. (I suspect the latter, given what I could see in the vid)
This causes the varnish to dry in mid air as its flying to the model, resulting in a rough finish.
With gloss coats you want to spray them on quite heavy and wet... just before it starts to pool up.
Hence working in bright light really helps to see whats happening.
Using a specialised thinner rather than water will help too.. only a few quid.
It is quite a fine art and notoriously difficult to get a smooth gloss coat.
However, it is almost certainly not the airbrush itself.
Luckily gloss coats can be polished down pretty well to improve the finish, either with a microfiber cloth or wet sand with very fine sandpaper.
Also, never spray the canopy.
Thanks for the info! I'll try and keep these points in mind for next time :D
@@ModelMinutes np! Model looked great btw, love all the decals! :)
I won a flight in one with the Shorts Test Pilot with the Air Training Corps in Belfast. I have the same model to build but unfortunately I can’t find my log book to remember which airframe I flew in.
But I still have a great memory of that day. So different from the Bulldog and Chipmunks we were used to. 😊
Thanks for the insight into the build. I’ll use this advice soon hopefully.
Sounds like a really cool experience!
@@ModelMinutes 😊
10/10 as always Matt
Thanks!
Show how old I am I remember Raymond Baxter in 1983 farnbourough air show on BBC1 those days when they showed it on a Sunday afternoon and there was a tender out for basic trainer this was one and three others one was I think built by Britton Normand the brief was also to have a hawk style cockpit now it’s been replaced wheres the time gone,great job with the kit I’ve too had to do some work on kits with I’ll fitting parts a TU 144 comes to mind I got in a nice little shop at west Drayton station some years ago ,doubt he’s still there ,all the best Mark
Thanks for watching! yeah, i guess things change, it is surprising how quick aviation tech moves on
Good job - impromptu diorama time!
I have a sheet of lead on hand for this sort of thing, but have certainly considered getting liquid gravity as others have mentioned. My dad has just finished another Tucano and this time managed to get it to sit correctly so it can be done!
That's a great idea!
I use liquid gravity. Can't recommend it enough.
Amazing Brazilian plane, so great almost everyone has/had at least one for training, and as if that wasn't enough it looks beautiful, I would recommend building a FAB EMB-314 Super Tucano sometime later just to add to the collection, I believe Hobby Boss has one.
thanks for the suggestion!
Really nice finish, great job! 👏
Thanks 😊
Thank you, a nice build and review.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Did you thin the Black paint? I know it's meant to be airbrush ready but I like to add a couple of drops of Vallejo flow improver and even a couple of drops of Vallejo airbrush thinner to their model air paints. I use a cheap 30 AUD ebay airbrush and it goes down nice and smooth when I do this. I did note when I used model air paint straight from the bottle it was a bit rough looking and tends to clog the airbrush.
thanks for the info, i dont recall thinning my paint in this one, it seemed to be ok straight out of the bottle, but perhaps i'll add a few drops next time
It turned out OK and at 5pounds u can't say no . Nice little build .
Thanks for watching 😊
Looks good 👍🏻 I have the poppy edition in my stash
Very cool :D
“The cockpit bathtub thing”
Best quote
:P
Love models that are in black! Idk what's with war vehicles in black but they always look so good.
look a bit stealthy i guess, and hides the dirt haha
Nice build 👍
Thanks 👍
Hi
Follow up:
Why did you choose not to paint the inside of the wheel wells?
And if you had, what colour would you have chosen?
Bob
England
I did paint the inside of the wheel wells using Vallejo 71.001 White airbrush acrylic at timestamp 08:15
@@ModelMinutes think I am using incorrect terminology, viewing underside when wheels are down there is a space not painted?
Nice work!
Thanks 😊
Any advice for where to get these Matt? I've struggled to find them anywhere, even Ebay!
Try French eBay and model suppliers .
I found mine there👍🏼
Try king kit or kit krazy.
I found mine in a shop a few years back, as for now it seems hard to find online
@@Kickback-dm7zt Found a preowned one of the Display Team Tucano for about £20. A bit steep by Matt's reckoning but I'm willing to pay that, though I'll need to get hold of some decals to turn it into a 72(R) Sqn Tucano 😊
@@adder3597 go for it. You can always get the decals at a later stage
Nice build Mark. As someone else suggested, small fishing weights to solve nose weight problems.
Good tip!
just one thing to note: if you use lead weights and glue them in with a melting glue it will melt the plastic and warp it
I either just place them in a convenient space ( may rattle a bit) or wedge in with a little blue Tack. If they are lead you can cut them to size.
@@stuartwren5526 I just use PVA so it doesnt react
Yes - don't want to make it angry.! 😁
Matt, ref gluing canopies. When you were building the XXX Dodge Charger I also watched the TH-cam channel World of Wayne do the same kit. He mentioned using Micro Krystal Klear glue for transparent parts as it apparently dries clear and avoids fogging. It seems to be similar to the decal solutions you use.. have you tried it?
i've not tried that product yet
@@ModelMinutes might be helpful to you :)
Matt, just a though ref filler. I know you do a test fit first, so you probably know in advance where the gaps will be. Would it work to put the filler in /then/ so when the parts are glued and pressed together the filler expands and fills all the gaps? It would save faffing about afterwards with a cocktail stick. All you have to do then is let the glue and filler dry and sand off the excess.
An interesting idea but I fear that it could be quite messy without a great deal of care. It may also not work for some of the gaps due to the angles and things
Very good indeed Matt. Love the signature tune at the end who is that buy? Would like to know is possible it seemed to go very well with summing ove the build and implementation on its taxi plinth.
The music tracks i used are from epidemic sound and listed in the description (cant remember specifically which one it was at the end)
@@ModelMinutes Thanks Matt I'll check them out and again a great vid on the build. Looking forward to the next one. Dean.
@@deanburn3400 thanks for watching 😊
I have dyspraxia and find some sets frustrating is there any simple military sets out there?
The new Airfix starter sets are pretty simple to do, worth taking a look
Sweet !
Thanks!
Nose-weights... I bought a tin of 500 airgun pellets around 5 yrs ago - price sticker on it says £3.49 - Still got around a hundred left. They weigh almost 1g each and can be squashed with pliers to fit anywhere there's a gap.
I use 1 pellet per gram required, plus a little blu-tack to hold them, and job's a good-un.
that's pretty cool :D
Looks amazing!
Thanks!
Matt, ref the base. How about just scoring the lines you want for concrete slabs, then if necessary bend the card along the score lines if you want wider gaps. Flatten it out, glue it down, and all the gaps have to be equal :) That way you know in advance the base fits. Yep, I'm lazy *lol* PS if you do separate slabs, maybe a /slightly/ different shade to suggest a prior repair.
good ideas! I think i tried scoring once before but made a slight bulge where the lines were and i didn't really like the look of it
Hey. Matt hope your well try buying liquid gravity from amazon its amazing i use it on all
My tri landing gear planes
I use it too
I'll check it out!
There’s something about turboprop aircraft that really speaks to me
Hey Model Minutes, I think I’ve got a good challenge idea for you. Can you build a model using the least amount of parts that are available?
Interesting idea - i think this would only work on a model with a high part count already, because on smaller kits you would only end up leaving out a couple of parts
@@ModelMinutes yes, I agree but I would be interested in seeing this. Not sure about others though.
Nicely done! Miracles do happen.. finally commenting on a post the same day! *lol*)
£25 plus postage on Ebay seems pretty steep for the scale.
Yeah that is a bit expensive
i cant wait also i want to see you build a ww1 kit
I've got an inter-war model kit coming soon
Втавить шуруп...это круто!!Красиво получилось моделька.😊
thanks very much!
hey there , watching your videos helped me cope with the loss of my nan yesterday, is it possible to do a mulity colour amercain aircraft from ww2 please
Sorry to hear that Martin, my condolences. I have a Revell p47 with the two tone blue in the stash, but I might also have some other things as well. A lot of US aircraft kits just seem to feature schemes for bare metal which is a shame as there were some colourful ones
@@ModelMinutes thank you , I means alot as she used to live near a us airbase during ww2
Nice plane, i think you should try more weatering
It would seem that these planes were kept quite clean in raf service, but I can certainly look at doing more in future videos
prety well done O_O
thanks!
Quite ironic that the tooling is good, because the RAF's Short's built Tucanos are notorious for their liberal tolerances so that not only does not one quite feel the same to fly, but if you precisely line them up at one end on the flight line, you get a wiggly line with the other ends.
wow, thanks for the fascinating info!
@@ModelMinutes I think that was the attraction for Short's and the Government over the RAF's preferred choice of the Pilatus PC9, because the PC9 was built like a 3rd and later generation aircraft, in being largely manufactured from precisely machined billet sections, whereas the Tucano was made like a Spitfire or a Hunter, out of hand fabricated and shaped parts from sheet and alloy tubes. This was how Belfasts and Skyvans had been built, and the situation being as it was in NI, it was better to spend money on employing people rather than CNC machine tools. The downside was that maintenance was a nightmare, everything even swapping out ejection seats would be complicated by these variation in tolerances, I recall at least one needing to be scrapped, when the RAF technicians swapping out a rear ejection seat concluded that due to the difficulty in getting the seat out due to numerous conflict with parts of the cockpit structure that was "different" than intended, they could not guarantee a safe ejection.
Now, washing? What? Why? When? Never heard of this before!
Are you following the instructions?
Enjoyed
Bob
England
In the instructions www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/9/5/142695-55-instructions.pdf it says "Surfaces to be painted should be clean - before parts are removed from the sprue, wash in warm, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly".
During the manufacture process various oils and things can get on the plastic, particularly mould release agents - these prevent the plastic sticking to the moulds but also stop paint from sticking to the plastic too. Washing the plastic parts gives a clean surface for cements and paints.
Sometimes I don't bother, but if you watch my recent video about the Humbrol Gen2 paints you will see what happens when the plastic is oily.
@@ModelMinutes sorry again error on my. These are two separate questions, washing ok well covered. Re instructions, do you build from experience and instinct or actually read them?
Bob
@@BobMuir100 most kits follow a similar format for building, but I do read the instructions because otherwise I will miss things
Cool music.
Thanks - links are in the description
Eh I’d agree that it’s a good kit but I think you need to upgrade your airbrush to something like a H&S Ultra
i also agree