Video helped me a lot! I got my mini z brand new but wouldn’t work right unfortunately after trying everything, it would come on then cut off, I installed a new board and now it starts up great! It’s a little scary at first but so satisfying when I finished thanks to your videos!🙏🏾🙏🏾
That’s awesome to hear the video helped you out! Yeah it’s stressful pulling the chassis apart but so satisfying to do it successfully. Good luck with your build brother!
Bahahaha oh my gosh man, that user name... wow lol But thank you very much for the kind words!!! I was hoping this would help someone out and, I was able to help you out :)
I cant remember the last time i was that careful when doing a full disassembly, i think i have done it one too many times and become jaded. just pull the screws and dump them on a magnet then work out which screw is which by sight (there are 2 different types of threads for the non countersunk screws) if you do this often i recommend the hardened or titanium screw heads and a cheap and soft metal hex screwdriver. this prevents stripping the hex socket on screws and causes damage to the tools and not the screws, any weight savings are secondary to this. one video on my todo list is how to redo stripped threads on the mini-z but thats low on the list of videos coming out. these frames dont stand up to maintenance attrition well and hence why i like metal parts
Blitz Works I thought about getting some harder screws, I ordered the PN racing black screw set since it was drift cheep, but I wish I would have gotten the titanium set. I can always order them when Kenon Hobby opens back up in a couple weeks. I video about how to rethread striped chassis screw holes would be pretty sweet. But if you went to a larger size, I fear the plastic would become even more brittle since there would be less material.
If we don't mention the performance and durability, the design is elegant and better than MA-03. This is pretty easy to tune should anyone want to change spur gear and diff.
Beaver's Hobby True lol but I don’t think the MA-030 is any more durable then a 020. Both unfortunately use very brittle plastic & are sensitive to crashes. I never thought about it but your right, the 020 is pretty elegant with its simplistic straight forward design. However the performance upgrade with the 030 is pretty shocking. I dident think the 030Evo would be so superior but it is. Balance & weight distribution are far superior & the brushless motor gets noticeably longer run time out of the batteries. The 030 platform really blows the 020 out of the water! But that said, I still love my 020, it’s an amazing little car. I plan to use both but have them dedicated to different bodies & wheel bases.
PN Racing, M Power & a few Eagle Racing bits sprinkled in there. I have a video talking about upgrade parts & what’s worth getting (it’s the most watched video on my channel). Short answer is no they don’t really help, but you have to watch the video to get a clearer picture.
I’m not sure if you still reply to comments but I completely disassembled mine to find an issue, reassembled it, and now it won’t turn on at all. I’m worried I am going to buy a new board because I can’t find the problem. Any Ideas? Thanks.
Great video, what would be the best route to put a lipo in there? Could I take the battery case off and solder a battery connector for the grey and black battery wires?
Sorry missed this the first time around, yes you could solder leads to the grey/black terminals & plug in a lipo. Just be careful not to short the board out
Check for dust & debris in the servo area. Just one tiny piece of debris in the right spot or even a single strand of hair can be enough to cause major issues. These littler cars are ridiculously sensitive. Hope this helps & good luck brother!
@@BMR3 after disassembling the whole car I couldn't see anything obstructing the gears themselves. The only thing I noticed was a slight build up of dust on the top side of the tie bar which I cleaned up and seems to have foxed the issue. People have recommended changing to aluminium one to stop the problem in the future. Ridiculously fun little car though although it has already cost me a lot of money with a few upgrades haha
Brilliant video, congrats ! Done that but I did a mistake : now steering works but motor is not working. By any chance, do you have a lead of what I need to check please ?
MKe sure the motor wires are not pinched since that can damage them & also make sure you have the leads screwed down tight to the board. That would be the first things to check
No worries, getting the differentials out is super easy. I think I will film a video today focusing on how to remove AWD differentials. Don’t overthink it, just remove the screws & be careful. It’s hard to mess up ;)
Nope, sorry don't have the time. However, Beaver's Hobby channel does a full tear down & FWD to MA-030 conversion & its the same chassis. check out his video & tell him I sent ya ;)
Hi, i just bought my first Mini Z awd and i'm totally beginner. What is the diferrent between MA-020s and MA-020. Do they share the same body if i want to buy a new body? Thanks
Hello, yes the 020 & 020s share the same body & all the same parts. The only difference is the radio frequency & electronics, everything else is the same.
Thank you thank you so much. Thanks for replying so quick. You are the best. It’s not much tutorial information out there about mini z and you’re like the Jesus of mini z awd
Alexandros Margo bahaha well thank you for saying that but I wouldn’t go that far 😂 I’m happy my channel is able to help you out & get started in mini-z! It’s an awesome hobby & there is a great community out there full of fellow enthusiasts
That's normal when you pick the car up. If you have weight on the suspension, E.G. the car placed on a surface, then the springs will not fall out. Just gotta be careful when you pick the car up, I have lost a couple springs that way. Another thing you can do is look into the Mpower front suspension arms, they have a screw that goes down into the spring & holds them in position.
@@BMR3 Im excited to see you are back. ive resolved the issue and become quite good and dissassembly now. I really appreciate the work you put into your videos.
jeff russell hey Jeff, yep you have to tear the car down completely to access the driveshaft & servo area. Literally remove every part. One thing to note with the servo: it’s not a traditional servo & it’s kinda janky. Only pressure holds the plates together, no screws. So when you remove the servo, make sure to keep pressure on the back plate so the electronic circle thingy doesn’t pop out of place. I dident even realize there was a back plate until I had the servo install in the new chassis & all the other parts in. Then I notice there was a black plate sitting in the old chassis....
Oh man, did you fry yours out? You will have to buy a full replacement board since they come wired in like this: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA020RA-45_p_46291.html
@@BMR3 luckily not, but iam asking cause i couldn't find the servo standalone, only the expensive full replacement board. I thought it is the only way to replace the servo, but today i found something, but i dont know if its the same, used in our AWD series. It should be just a servo for MR03, found it only on a german webshop -> www.rc-tec.de/product_info.php/info/p1334_Ersatz-Servomotor-Mini-Z-2-4-GHz.html and on Joyhobby -> www.joyhobby.co.kr/mall/Item.asp?siteid=joyhobby&itemid=586862&catid=9283 Idk but maybe this could be an alternative?
@@drifthobby6523 Sorry for the late response, your reply was marked as SPAM so i did not see it until now. That motor may work, but im not sure. as long as the power & dimensions are them same it should work
Charlie Horse agreed, it’s good to have a bit of flex in certain areas to help absorb impact from a crash. Too much aluminum & you will end up snapping something that’s difficult to replace. Personally I think it’s best to have plastic camber knuckles & suspension arms up front to help absorb the impact. That way the shock energy doesn’t get transfers down into the servo & small fragile bits. But of course I always go against this thinking and bling everything out 😹
Thanks for this video! Great job. Query, I have the original MA-020 AWD (analog) from when I raced years ago. Looking to jump back in with the newer digital controllers and maybe a brushless motor. My chassis is virtually new hopped up with all aluminum parts from PN Racing; so I really want to keep it. Would this be the correct board: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA-020VE-PRORA-35_p_46202.html
Sorry for the delayed response my friend! Yep thats the brushless FHS board, just make sure you have a compatible controller & you will be good to go :) What all did you upgrade o your car so far?
@@BMR3 What didn't I!?! I have the SAS double-wishbone suspension in the back and front, that's fully adjustable with included shims (NUTS); ceramic bearings all around; high strength Delrin gears; heatsink on the FET; upgraded LSD front and back; and upgraded the drive shaft axle and the bearing brace to aluminum, as well. And I did that like 9 years ago! So essentially exactly what you did with your car here, except mine is analog. I posted pics on the Fbk group you recommended in the other video: facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/?multi_permalinks=1753312331476074¬if_id=1597009980725501¬if_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif
LionTree Media oh shit that’s your car bro?!?! I saw that beautiful chassis the other day on Facebook & I thought to myself “hot damn that thing is maxed out” 😹 Beautiful build man, I love it! Let me know how the electronics conversion goes 😼
@BMR 3 yep...the only thing left to do with that car would be to upgrade it to brushless...which is also why I asked this question! *_LOL_* Wanted your insight.
My RTR car didn't work properly, I fixed the issue with the help of this video. Thx a lot!
Video helped me a lot! I got my mini z brand new but wouldn’t work right unfortunately after trying everything, it would come on then cut off, I installed a new board and now it starts up great! It’s a little scary at first but so satisfying when I finished thanks to your videos!🙏🏾🙏🏾
That’s awesome to hear the video helped you out! Yeah it’s stressful pulling the chassis apart but so satisfying to do it successfully.
Good luck with your build brother!
I've done this now 3X on two different MA020 VE I own, great video for anyone needing to tear these down.
Thanks! Yeah it’s a bit daunting the first time you need to do a chassis swap but my hopes were for this video to help people take the plunge!
Brilliant film mate, I r8 8/8! This was very very helpful to me, thank you for making this so in-depth!
Bahahaha oh my gosh man, that user name... wow lol
But thank you very much for the kind words!!! I was hoping this would help someone out and, I was able to help you out :)
Thank you! I just got an Initial D Trueno readyset yesterday, and this is going to help me change bearings and who knows what else in the future :)
I cant remember the last time i was that careful when doing a full disassembly, i think i have done it one too many times and become jaded. just pull the screws and dump them on a magnet then work out which screw is which by sight (there are 2 different types of threads for the non countersunk screws)
if you do this often i recommend the hardened or titanium screw heads and a cheap and soft metal hex screwdriver. this prevents stripping the hex socket on screws and causes damage to the tools and not the screws, any weight savings are secondary to this.
one video on my todo list is how to redo stripped threads on the mini-z but thats low on the list of videos coming out. these frames dont stand up to maintenance attrition well and hence why i like metal parts
Blitz Works I thought about getting some harder screws, I ordered the PN racing black screw set since it was drift cheep, but I wish I would have gotten the titanium set. I can always order them when Kenon Hobby opens back up in a couple weeks.
I video about how to rethread striped chassis screw holes would be pretty sweet. But if you went to a larger size, I fear the plastic would become even more brittle since there would be less material.
If we don't mention the performance and durability, the design is elegant and better than MA-03. This is pretty easy to tune should anyone want to change spur gear and diff.
Beaver's Hobby True lol but I don’t think the MA-030 is any more durable then a 020. Both unfortunately use very brittle plastic & are sensitive to crashes. I never thought about it but your right, the 020 is pretty elegant with its simplistic straight forward design.
However the performance upgrade with the 030 is pretty shocking. I dident think the 030Evo would be so superior but it is. Balance & weight distribution are far superior & the brushless motor gets noticeably longer run time out of the batteries. The 030 platform really blows the 020 out of the water!
But that said, I still love my 020, it’s an amazing little car. I plan to use both but have them dedicated to different bodies & wheel bases.
Thank You for taking the time to do this, you just helped me big time.. have subbed in way of thanks.
Can't wait to see the chassis swap!
Should be coming soon, I just received all the parts!
Are your aluminum components from pn racing? Do these parts make the car perform better or is it just for aesthetic?
PN Racing, M Power & a few Eagle Racing bits sprinkled in there. I have a video talking about upgrade parts & what’s worth getting (it’s the most watched video on my channel). Short answer is no they don’t really help, but you have to watch the video to get a clearer picture.
I’m not sure if you still reply to comments but I completely disassembled mine to find an issue, reassembled it, and now it won’t turn on at all. I’m worried I am going to buy a new board because I can’t find the problem. Any Ideas? Thanks.
hello brother, sorry for the delayed response. Are you still having issues?
Great video, what would be the best route to put a lipo in there? Could I take the battery case off and solder a battery connector for the grey and black battery wires?
Sorry missed this the first time around, yes you could solder leads to the grey/black terminals & plug in a lipo. Just be careful not to short the board out
Hi mate. Have you ever had a problem with the steering not returning back to centre and locking one way?
Check for dust & debris in the servo area. Just one tiny piece of debris in the right spot or even a single strand of hair can be enough to cause major issues. These littler cars are ridiculously sensitive.
Hope this helps & good luck brother!
@@BMR3 after disassembling the whole car I couldn't see anything obstructing the gears themselves. The only thing I noticed was a slight build up of dust on the top side of the tie bar which I cleaned up and seems to have foxed the issue. People have recommended changing to aluminium one to stop the problem in the future. Ridiculously fun little car though although it has already cost me a lot of money with a few upgrades haha
Brilliant video, congrats ! Done that but I did a mistake : now steering works but motor is not working. By any chance, do you have a lead of what I need to check please ?
MKe sure the motor wires are not pinched since that can damage them & also make sure you have the leads screwed down tight to the board. That would be the first things to check
@@BMR3 Awesome, thanks a lot. One of my screws wasn’t screw down enough, even if I thought it was...
@@TheMonkeyman399 Awesome, I’m happy to help! I had the same issue where I dident tighten down one screw 😹
Is it easy to get the diff out? Is it easy to break something?
No worries, getting the differentials out is super easy. I think I will film a video today focusing on how to remove AWD differentials.
Don’t overthink it, just remove the screws & be careful. It’s hard to mess up ;)
@@BMR3 thanks 😁😀😄🤗😆😁😀😄🤗
Would you be able to show a tear down on your MA030?
Nope, sorry don't have the time. However, Beaver's Hobby channel does a full tear down & FWD to MA-030 conversion & its the same chassis. check out his video & tell him I sent ya ;)
Hi, i just bought my first Mini Z awd and i'm totally beginner. What is the diferrent between MA-020s and MA-020. Do they share the same body if i want to buy a new body? Thanks
Hello, yes the 020 & 020s share the same body & all the same parts. The only difference is the radio frequency & electronics, everything else is the same.
Thank you thank you so much. Thanks for replying so quick. You are the best. It’s not much tutorial information out there about mini z and you’re like the Jesus of mini z awd
Alexandros Margo bahaha well thank you for saying that but I wouldn’t go that far 😂
I’m happy my channel is able to help you out & get started in mini-z! It’s an awesome hobby & there is a great community out there full of fellow enthusiasts
When I try to put my front suspension back together the springs are so loose they fall out. What did I do wrong?
That's normal when you pick the car up. If you have weight on the suspension, E.G. the car placed on a surface, then the springs will not fall out.
Just gotta be careful when you pick the car up, I have lost a couple springs that way. Another thing you can do is look into the Mpower front suspension arms, they have a screw that goes down into the spring & holds them in position.
@@BMR3 Im excited to see you are back. ive resolved the issue and become quite good and dissassembly now. I really appreciate the work you put into your videos.
Thank you brother! Hopefully I can start uploading regularly again soon.
Have a wonderful day!
So I have to do that to put my aftermarket drive shaft and steering servo in?
jeff russell hey Jeff, yep you have to tear the car down completely to access the driveshaft & servo area. Literally remove every part.
One thing to note with the servo: it’s not a traditional servo & it’s kinda janky. Only pressure holds the plates together, no screws. So when you remove the servo, make sure to keep pressure on the back plate so the electronic circle thingy doesn’t pop out of place.
I dident even realize there was a back plate until I had the servo install in the new chassis & all the other parts in. Then I notice there was a black plate sitting in the old chassis....
What aftermarket Servo did you buy and where?
You can’t fit after market servos unfortunately, you will need to lift the stock “servo” out of the originals chassis.
Hey man, i want to ask if its possible to buy the servo motor? I cant find it anywhere..
Oh man, did you fry yours out? You will have to buy a full replacement board since they come wired in like this: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA020RA-45_p_46291.html
@@BMR3 luckily not, but iam asking cause i couldn't find the servo standalone, only the expensive full replacement board. I thought it is the only way to replace the servo, but today i found something, but i dont know if its the same, used in our AWD series. It should be just a servo for MR03, found it only on a german webshop -> www.rc-tec.de/product_info.php/info/p1334_Ersatz-Servomotor-Mini-Z-2-4-GHz.html
and on Joyhobby -> www.joyhobby.co.kr/mall/Item.asp?siteid=joyhobby&itemid=586862&catid=9283
Idk but maybe this could be an alternative?
@@drifthobby6523 Sorry for the late response, your reply was marked as SPAM so i did not see it until now.
That motor may work, but im not sure. as long as the power & dimensions are them same it should work
Damn Japanese made that platform all tight lol.
Lol it’s super tight upfront, putting in the servo components was major pita. But I happily deal with it since I love this scale
@@BMR3 haha its supposed to be easier I thought since it's a small scale, oooh I was wrong🤦♂️.
Charlie Horse lol spot on, the smaller the scale the bigger the hassle. lol & surprisingly not much cheeper
@@BMR3 running those aluminum hopup parts are pretty pricey. I like the car to flex for better handling etc. On certain parts on plastic.
Charlie Horse agreed, it’s good to have a bit of flex in certain areas to help absorb impact from a crash. Too much aluminum & you will end up snapping something that’s difficult to replace.
Personally I think it’s best to have plastic camber knuckles & suspension arms up front to help absorb the impact. That way the shock energy doesn’t get transfers down into the servo & small fragile bits.
But of course I always go against this thinking and bling everything out 😹
Thanks for this video! Great job. Query, I have the original MA-020 AWD (analog) from when I raced years ago. Looking to jump back in with the newer digital controllers and maybe a brushless motor. My chassis is virtually new hopped up with all aluminum parts from PN Racing; so I really want to keep it. Would this be the correct board:
www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA-020VE-PRORA-35_p_46202.html
Sorry for the delayed response my friend! Yep thats the brushless FHS board, just make sure you have a compatible controller & you will be good to go :)
What all did you upgrade o your car so far?
@@BMR3 What didn't I!?! I have the SAS double-wishbone suspension in the back and front, that's fully adjustable with included shims (NUTS); ceramic bearings all around; high strength Delrin gears; heatsink on the FET; upgraded LSD front and back; and upgraded the drive shaft axle and the bearing brace to aluminum, as well. And I did that like 9 years ago! So essentially exactly what you did with your car here, except mine is analog. I posted pics on the Fbk group you recommended in the other video: facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/?multi_permalinks=1753312331476074¬if_id=1597009980725501¬if_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif
LionTree Media oh shit that’s your car bro?!?! I saw that beautiful chassis the other day on Facebook & I thought to myself “hot damn that thing is maxed out” 😹
Beautiful build man, I love it! Let me know how the electronics conversion goes 😼
@BMR 3 yep...the only thing left to do with that car would be to upgrade it to brushless...which is also why I asked this question! *_LOL_* Wanted your insight.
th-cam.com/play/PLLu7glLTd8gMjWUsBN4zUkMcazuFUEAqm.html
申請人必須先係香港做野，😜😜😂😇😇