You did it right getting that original J10. Do not listen what you wife says, it is an awesome truck, even in that condition. Greetings from Germany .......
These jeep trucks all had crazy door opening angles until the 1980s when they limited the swing...so nearby cars would not get whacked by your Jeep doors opening three feet out. It is a J10 which designates the cargo carrying capacity -1/2 ton. J20 is 3/4 ton rated. Honcho was an option package exclusive to the J10 trucks, and basically included the stickers, the 15x8 steel wheels, some of which were 8-spokers, some were Chevy Rally wheels. Stock tire size for the Honcho was 31x10.50x15. Your tires are slightly oversized, but they fit without lift...usually. Honcho package included some other little things which I forget. The bed is a 7-foot long bed. Your wheelbase is 119". There was a J10 option with the longer (131") wheel base and longer 8-foot bed. The J20 only came with the 8-foot bed in the mid 1970s until its demise in 1986. Your axles will be full width Dana44s. Not the smaller Dana44s off the Wagoneers or Cherokee Choiefs of that era. The front axles swap between J10, J20 and Cherokee Chief. The rear axles only swap between J10 and J20 because of their wider spring perch width and wider frame. The Dana44s are some of the most easily modded and upgraded axles out there. The current JK Jeeps run Dana44s, but nothing is common but the name now. There are selectable lockers, positrac (track-loc) and other traction aids available for the Dana44 axles. You will need to know spline count and diameter of the axle shafts when ordering. I do not recall what that would be off the top of my head. The knob is a foot-well vent control Pull to open. The ducting for these is fed through the grill in front of the windshield, behind the hood, near your wipers. The ducting will likely be full of leaves, dirt, bugs and all kinds of crud. They also leak, so your floorboards will be ventilated with cancer, most likely. The small mystery box on the firewall above your power brake booster is the windshield wiper motor. You can swap a newer unit on from a 1979 to 1991 FSJ (Full Size Jeep) but it requires some grinding and drilling. The engine is an AMC V8. They came in Jeeps from 1970 to 1991. They were all carbureted. The stock carbs were junk. The engine displacement will be cast into the side of the engine block beneath the motor-mount brackets. It will be a 304, 360, or 401. They all have the same external dimensions, The 360 and 401 share heads and valve size. The 304 was pitiful. The 360 and 401 can be built up with minor expense. They do not take parts from any other engine family. The distributor changed over the years and was manufactured by AC Delco (GM), Prestolite (Dodge), and Motorcraft/Duraspark (Ford). depending on the year. the base and gear are all AMC, but the top of the distributors would change to accept the components built by the Big Three. Your distributor is aftermarket. Keep that. The stock models are hard to deal with and tune. Consider it a free upgrade, as most are $300. You may not need a lift. I run 285/75x16s on my J-trucks with no lift and they dont rub. That figures out to an inch smaller than the tires you have. I did run 305/70x16s on one of trucks and it did bite some lugs at full stuff with the front tires turned. Usually the inner fender-flare lip just needs to be bent up. Definitely kill the mold and anything else growing in it. The windshield defroster ducting will likely have mold growing in it and that will cause severe respiratory issues. same for the seats. 45 year old polyurethane foam is basically dust waiting to choke you. The 1976 "Full time 4-wheel-drive" unit available would not be bolted to a stick-shift transmission. That is not stock. Full time 4WD would be a Borg Warner Quadratrac. Look them up online. They are specialized. ALL part time 4WD transfer-cases used part-time hubs. Depending on what is under the truck you may need to buy some parts because they have been wrecked by abuse - like driving a locked up 4WD transfer case on dry pavement. this wrecks your whole drive train over time. get it checked out. Finally, if it runs and drives, turns and stops, and there are no really noticeably vibrations or clunks or whines, I'd say you scored! Good Luck!
I had one when i was still in highschool the previous owner put a 350 small block and a th350 when it ran it ran great but i didnt have the knowledge or money to fix everything wrong with it so i sold to this guy who fixed the rust and painted it bright yellow and i think he took the engine out to put a 304 back in it but never finished it so its been sitting at his shop for the last 10 years
It’s got a cool aggressive stance. Good luck with the restoration. It’ll probably cost a good 5 to 8k to getting it looking great but you won’t regret it. They are a good investment.
i have a 1984 j10 really strong vehicles i had a tug of war with my nissan and my j10 it dragged the nisan all over the road these are military/civilian vehicles people dont think they can do anything well they can
HI there. We have a 1976 jeep honcho. it's taken apart. we need to find a home for all the parts. We have a bed, body, hood, engine, and frame. anyone interested? it's in san Jose California.
The wife is not happy …… you crack me up.great find
That trucks incredible....seat upholstery alone is worth a TON
You did it right getting that original J10.
Do not listen what you wife says, it is an awesome truck, even in that condition.
Greetings from Germany .......
"Walkie this is talkie" love that ! You payed what it's worth. It looks square! Glad you're young. You have alot of work ahead of you !
Have not seen one of these in forever. Great find.
I had a 1980 j10 honcho had the step side bed. It was one tough truck it would go anywhere. Had the 360 with th400 wish I'd have never sold it.
That box by the brake booster is your windshield wiper motor. Love the truck nice find!
These jeep trucks all had crazy door opening angles until the 1980s when they limited the swing...so nearby cars would not get whacked by your Jeep doors opening three feet out.
It is a J10 which designates the cargo carrying capacity -1/2 ton. J20 is 3/4 ton rated. Honcho was an option package exclusive to the J10 trucks, and basically included the stickers, the 15x8 steel wheels, some of which were 8-spokers, some were Chevy Rally wheels. Stock tire size for the Honcho was 31x10.50x15. Your tires are slightly oversized, but they fit without lift...usually. Honcho package included some other little things which I forget. The bed is a 7-foot long bed. Your wheelbase is 119". There was a J10 option with the longer (131") wheel base and longer 8-foot bed. The J20 only came with the 8-foot bed in the mid 1970s until its demise in 1986.
Your axles will be full width Dana44s. Not the smaller Dana44s off the Wagoneers or Cherokee Choiefs of that era. The front axles swap between J10, J20 and Cherokee Chief. The rear axles only swap between J10 and J20 because of their wider spring perch width and wider frame. The Dana44s are some of the most easily modded and upgraded axles out there. The current JK Jeeps run Dana44s, but nothing is common but the name now. There are selectable lockers, positrac (track-loc) and other traction aids available for the Dana44 axles. You will need to know spline count and diameter of the axle shafts when ordering. I do not recall what that would be off the top of my head.
The knob is a foot-well vent control Pull to open. The ducting for these is fed through the grill in front of the windshield, behind the hood, near your wipers. The ducting will likely be full of leaves, dirt, bugs and all kinds of crud. They also leak, so your floorboards will be ventilated with cancer, most likely.
The small mystery box on the firewall above your power brake booster is the windshield wiper motor. You can swap a newer unit on from a 1979 to 1991 FSJ (Full Size Jeep) but it requires some grinding and drilling.
The engine is an AMC V8. They came in Jeeps from 1970 to 1991. They were all carbureted. The stock carbs were junk. The engine displacement will be cast into the side of the engine block beneath the motor-mount brackets. It will be a 304, 360, or 401. They all have the same external dimensions, The 360 and 401 share heads and valve size. The 304 was pitiful. The 360 and 401 can be built up with minor expense. They do not take parts from any other engine family.
The distributor changed over the years and was manufactured by AC Delco (GM), Prestolite (Dodge), and Motorcraft/Duraspark (Ford). depending on the year. the base and gear are all AMC, but the top of the distributors would change to accept the components built by the Big Three. Your distributor is aftermarket. Keep that. The stock models are hard to deal with and tune. Consider it a free upgrade, as most are $300.
You may not need a lift. I run 285/75x16s on my J-trucks with no lift and they dont rub. That figures out to an inch smaller than the tires you have. I did run 305/70x16s on one of trucks and it did bite some lugs at full stuff with the front tires turned. Usually the inner fender-flare lip just needs to be bent up.
Definitely kill the mold and anything else growing in it. The windshield defroster ducting will likely have mold growing in it and that will cause severe respiratory issues. same for the seats. 45 year old polyurethane foam is basically dust waiting to choke you.
The 1976 "Full time 4-wheel-drive" unit available would not be bolted to a stick-shift transmission. That is not stock. Full time 4WD would be a Borg Warner Quadratrac. Look them up online. They are specialized. ALL part time 4WD transfer-cases used part-time hubs. Depending on what is under the truck you may need to buy some parts because they have been wrecked by abuse - like driving a locked up 4WD transfer case on dry pavement. this wrecks your whole drive train over time. get it checked out.
Finally, if it runs and drives, turns and stops, and there are no really noticeably vibrations or clunks or whines, I'd say you scored!
Good Luck!
thanks for the info! your the best!
@@rwallaceiv Yep. Good luck. Have fun.
Seems clean enough. Like that it has power steering and brakes. AC would make it perfect.
I had one when i was still in highschool the previous owner put a 350 small block and a th350 when it ran it ran great but i didnt have the knowledge or money to fix everything wrong with it so i sold to this guy who fixed the rust and painted it bright yellow and i think he took the engine out to put a 304 back in it but never finished it so its been sitting at his shop for the last 10 years
It’s got a cool aggressive stance. Good luck with the restoration. It’ll probably cost a good 5 to 8k to getting it looking great but you won’t regret it. They are a good investment.
i have a 1984 j10 really strong vehicles i had a tug of war with my nissan and my j10 it dragged the nisan all over the road these are military/civilian vehicles people dont think they can do anything well they can
That is a j10. J20s are 8 lug. Gas millage will suck anyway but it's smiles per miles.
2000 is a fair price.
I have a 1980 J10 Honcho from my grandpa. It needs a new engine though. Does anybody know how I could get a new engine for it??
Yeah happy wife happy life!!! Better sell it too me.🤔 she is gonna be mad! 😅
The wife isn't happy? Well, it is better to ask for forgiveness than for permission.
HI there. We have a 1976 jeep honcho. it's taken apart. we need to find a home for all the parts. We have a bed, body, hood, engine, and frame. anyone interested? it's in san Jose California.