Thank you so much for this tutorial and pattern. It helped so much! I've drafted drop shoulder patterns without much success in the past and this helped so much! God Bless you! I finally got it right! Not even my mannequin was helping me, but your video did.
@@JSternDesigns I once saw in a library book a method where you lay the dropped shoulder pattern out flat with the front and back pieces lined up at the shoulder and then redraw the armskye so the sleeve is set in adding what you removed from the armskye to the sleeve pattern. I don't have access to the book anymore. So I can only go by memory unless I can find another place where this method is described.
Thank you! I sewed up a longer sheath dress in silk shantung, but the drop shoulder style jacket was just too boxy and the fabric too heavy for a dressy jacket to go over my dress. I'm determined to redeem my lovely fabric.I know the woven requires more ease than does a stretch fabric, and I will be sure to use an appropriate pattern.
Great information and enjoyable tutorial. I am looking to do the opposite - create a slightly dropped shoulder sleeve pattern (more like a shirt sleeve) for a jacket from a set-in sleeve sloper. I have been "experimenting" with small paper pieces and this is what I have discovered so far. If I extend the shoulder of the bodice by 1 inch, I removed that same amount on the sleeve cap by folding over the paper at the top. Before I did that I measured the diagonal from sleeve cap center to the bicep line at the armhole edge on the sleeve sloper. After folding over the inch on the sleeve cap, I then measured out that amount to the bicep line and found it met the bicep line at a point beyond the original length (in my case it was 1" further). Therefore overall the total width of the sleeve at the bicep is now 2". My next step was to measure this new sleeve cap and compare to the neasurement of bodice armholes of front & back. The sleeve cap was just over an inch larger in difference. Since I am not looking to have ease to fit a cap, do I use this measurement to help determine how much to alter the armhole depth of the bodice. My thought was to lower by half an inch at front and back and then remeasure to see how closely it comes to the sleeve cap measurement. Then tweak either less or more depending on my results . Is this the correct approach to arrive at a good fit for the sleeve?? Thank you for any help you may provide. (I"m somewhat new to pattern drafting and am easily confused!)
You are on the right track. A dropped shoulder sleeve cap is flatter than a set in sleeve. So taking an 1" off the cap is a good start. To adjust the ease between the cap and armhole, I would reduce the ease in the cap. Slash across the cap just above the front/back notches and slide it down 1/2". That will get rid of the inch of ease you have. ...Then I would sew a test garment to see how the sleeve is looking. You may need to fine tune the shape of the cap or armhole based on how it fits. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Think I may be able to tackle this adjustment with your very helpful advice. Thank you for taking the time to point me in the right direction.
Thank you so much for this. This is exactly what I needed to know...how to extend a drop shoulder pattern sleeve. I simply cannot master a set in sleeve, no matter how many YT videos I watch.🤯
I had a issue about the armhole. If we are making a drop shoulder shirt then how to draw the armhole of the shirt? Because then the chest would be increased as well, the armhole is going to be straight cut in drop shoulder pattern right?
Right... The dropped shoulder fabric wraps around the ball of the shoulder and down toward the bicep... it really doesn't increase the chest. If the seam between the dropped shoulder and sleeve is below the curve of the underarm (on the shirt portion of the pattern) then the armhole can be straight. Hope this helps! Thanks for drafting along with me
I have a hoodie pattern from Seamwork that has a raglan sleeve that is terrible on my broader than broad shoulders (makes me look like a grid iron player) and I'd love to know how to change it to a regular set in sleeve. Is that possible? Thanks as always for your amazing videos!!
:) ohhhh that's a good one! Drafting a set in sleeve from a raglan sleeve top! I will add that to my short list of tutorials for my new series "Subscriber Q&A" ... LIVE at 1:00 pm est on Wednesdays. This week I'm answering a question about fabric bunching up at the base of the back neckline. I also have a raglan sleeve top question, so I'll group it together for the first Wednesday in May! Thanks for following along with me
Hoping this is the answer for my problem - The Nicola Woven Shirt from Style Arc has an oversized dropped shoulder, which when I raise my arm will pull the whole shirt up and expose my belly area. And we can’t be having that!
I want to make a thrifted quilt into a coat but I want an integral sleeve like the always cardigan coat. Should I do the sleeve straight out or sloped? Thanks (I don’t have a pattern so I’m going to wing it 😂🙈)
The straighter the sleeve, the more fabric will "bunch" under the arm when your arms are down. If the quilt is thick, I think I would slope it down s little bit. :) Thanks for sewing along with me!
Is it possible to convert a large 80's style coat with shoulder pads and raglan sleeves to a sleeves that are more tailored and inset? I've had it for years and love it but want to do the conversion without ruining it 🙄. Any advice welcomed. Thought if this idea but I don't think it would work. Bx
Without seeing it, I think I would take out the shoulder pad and baste along the shoulder seam (if there is one) and the under arm seam to take in the fit of the sleeve. Use the longest stitch length that you can so it's easy to take out if it's not working... Hope that helps!
Hi. Thank you for your tutorial! I have a pattern I like a lot. It has a non- set in sleeve (drop shoulder) with a cuff. It is short sleeved and I want to make an extension to make a long sleeve. Is there a way to send photos to you to avoid confusion? I have NO pattern drafting experience whatsoever. Thank you! Dr. Patrice
@@JSternDesigns yes, I have this exact question 😅 I'm a petite but chubby/wide person and drop shoulder garments look horrible on me! Bought the perfect coat, but it's basically a drop sleeve box of a thing. I understood what you explained on the shoulder part, but I'd have to piece out the sleeve, readjust, and extend the ends? The drop shoulder is only a few inches from elbow 😱 so the remaining sleeve is perfect width already- but, if I alter it to fit the new arm hole, I've left w/a 3/4 sleeve I think 😥😓 Should I just alter my garment differently?
Thank you so much for this tutorial and pattern. It helped so much! I've drafted drop shoulder patterns without much success in the past and this helped so much! God Bless you! I finally got it right! Not even my mannequin was helping me, but your video did.
I'm so happy to hear this helped!! Thanks for watching
By this method you might as well throw out the dropped shoulder pattern and use the pattern that fits you.
That’s so true… but someone asked me how to do it & I love playing with pattern pieces :). Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns I once saw in a library book a method where you lay the dropped shoulder pattern out flat with the front and back pieces lined up at the shoulder and then redraw the armskye so the sleeve is set in adding what you removed from the armskye to the sleeve pattern. I don't have access to the book anymore. So I can only go by memory unless I can find another place where this method is described.
Thank you! I sewed up a longer sheath dress in silk shantung, but the drop shoulder style jacket was just too boxy and the fabric too heavy for a dressy jacket to go over my dress. I'm determined to redeem my lovely fabric.I know the woven requires more ease than does a stretch fabric, and I will be sure to use an appropriate pattern.
My Pleasure!! Fabric choice is important!! Something with a set-in sleeve may be a better choice. Thanks for watching
Thanks so much, really useful tutorial.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. Exactly what I need.
My pleasure! Thank you for drafting along with me!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great information and enjoyable tutorial. I am looking to do the opposite - create a slightly dropped shoulder sleeve pattern (more like a shirt sleeve) for a jacket from a set-in sleeve sloper. I have been "experimenting" with small paper pieces and this is what I have discovered so far. If I extend the shoulder of the bodice by 1 inch, I removed that same amount on the sleeve cap by folding over the paper at the top. Before I did that I measured the diagonal from sleeve cap center to the bicep line at the armhole edge on the sleeve sloper. After folding over the inch on the sleeve cap, I then measured out that amount to the bicep line and found it met the bicep line at a point beyond the original length (in my case it was 1" further). Therefore overall the total width of the sleeve at the bicep is now 2". My next step was to measure this new sleeve cap and compare to the neasurement of bodice armholes of front & back. The sleeve cap was just over an inch larger in difference. Since I am not looking to have ease to fit a cap, do I use this measurement to help determine how much to alter the armhole depth of the bodice. My thought was to lower by half an inch at front and back and then remeasure to see how closely it comes to the sleeve cap measurement. Then tweak either less or more depending on my results . Is this the correct approach to arrive at a good fit for the sleeve?? Thank you for any help you may provide. (I"m somewhat new to pattern drafting and am easily confused!)
You are on the right track. A dropped shoulder sleeve cap is flatter than a set in sleeve. So taking an 1" off the cap is a good start. To adjust the ease between the cap and armhole, I would reduce the ease in the cap. Slash across the cap just above the front/back notches and slide it down 1/2". That will get rid of the inch of ease you have. ...Then I would sew a test garment to see how the sleeve is looking. You may need to fine tune the shape of the cap or armhole based on how it fits. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Think I may be able to tackle this adjustment with your very helpful advice. Thank you for taking the time to point me in the right direction.
Very helpful
Glad to hear that & Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this. This is exactly what I needed to know...how to extend a drop shoulder pattern sleeve. I simply cannot master a set in sleeve, no matter how many YT videos I watch.🤯
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for designing along with me!
Fantastic thank you!
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching!
Hi can teach to cut basic large body draft 🤗thank you!
Thanks for joining me! Can you explain a little more about what you would like to see in an upcoming video?
I had a issue about the armhole. If we are making a drop shoulder shirt then how to draw the armhole of the shirt? Because then the chest would be increased as well, the armhole is going to be straight cut in drop shoulder pattern right?
Right... The dropped shoulder fabric wraps around the ball of the shoulder and down toward the bicep... it really doesn't increase the chest. If the seam between the dropped shoulder and sleeve is below the curve of the underarm (on the shirt portion of the pattern) then the armhole can be straight. Hope this helps! Thanks for drafting along with me
I have a hoodie pattern from Seamwork that has a raglan sleeve that is terrible on my broader than broad shoulders (makes me look like a grid iron player) and I'd love to know how to change it to a regular set in sleeve. Is that possible? Thanks as always for your amazing videos!!
:) ohhhh that's a good one! Drafting a set in sleeve from a raglan sleeve top! I will add that to my short list of tutorials for my new series "Subscriber Q&A" ... LIVE at 1:00 pm est on Wednesdays. This week I'm answering a question about fabric bunching up at the base of the back neckline. I also have a raglan sleeve top question, so I'll group it together for the first Wednesday in May! Thanks for following along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thanks so much, I look forward to it!! :D
Hoping this is the answer for my problem - The Nicola Woven Shirt from Style Arc has an oversized dropped shoulder, which when I raise my arm will pull the whole shirt up and expose my belly area. And we can’t be having that!
I hope so too! keep me posted on how it goes, thanks for watching
I want to make a thrifted quilt into a coat but I want an integral sleeve like the always cardigan coat. Should I do the sleeve straight out or sloped? Thanks (I don’t have a pattern so I’m going to wing it 😂🙈)
The straighter the sleeve, the more fabric will "bunch" under the arm when your arms are down. If the quilt is thick, I think I would slope it down s little bit. :) Thanks for sewing along with me!
@@JSternDesigns thanks so much! ❤️
Is it possible to convert a large 80's style coat with shoulder pads and raglan sleeves to a sleeves that are more tailored and inset? I've had it for years and love it but want to do the conversion without ruining it 🙄. Any advice welcomed. Thought if this idea but I don't think it would work. Bx
Without seeing it, I think I would take out the shoulder pad and baste along the shoulder seam (if there is one) and the under arm seam to take in the fit of the sleeve. Use the longest stitch length that you can so it's easy to take out if it's not working... Hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns thank you for replying. I think I'll just have to bite the bullet. Bx
Hi. Thank you for your tutorial! I have a pattern I like a lot. It has a non- set in sleeve (drop shoulder) with a cuff. It is short sleeved and I want to make an extension to make a long sleeve. Is there a way to send photos to you to avoid confusion? I have NO pattern drafting experience whatsoever. Thank you!
Dr. Patrice
My Pleasure! You can email me a photo at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com and I'll take a look!
I'm not clear on how to alter to the new sleeve.
Hi... sorry for the delay in getting to your question... Do you mean you're not sure how to create a set in sleeve from a dropped shoulder pattern?
@@JSternDesigns yes, I have this exact question 😅 I'm a petite but chubby/wide person and drop shoulder garments look horrible on me! Bought the perfect coat, but it's basically a drop sleeve box of a thing. I understood what you explained on the shoulder part, but I'd have to piece out the sleeve, readjust, and extend the ends? The drop shoulder is only a few inches from elbow 😱 so the remaining sleeve is perfect width already- but, if I alter it to fit the new arm hole, I've left w/a 3/4 sleeve I think 😥😓
Should I just alter my garment differently?