My second car was a Monza red 3500 automatic HBN 616N, a lovely motor, kept it for 3yrs and traded it for a Range Rover which wouldn’t go past a filling station 😂 happy days.
It sounds absolutely superb. Possibly the best barn find ever! My uncle had a humble 2000 in Zircon Blue for about 12 years, lovely car. I believe this is called Monza Red.
Unless it's gone missing, there should be a sticker on the inner wing with colour name and a Rover part number for touch up. The sticker should be near the larger sticker showing the 3500 engine maintenance detail. The firing order should be cast onto the r/h front of the alloy inlet manifold. There is a company called Rimmer Bros, in Lincoln England that specialise in most British Leyland vehicles. You can download some excellent parts catalogues and manuals for the various marques.
Very envious of you Adam, it looks and sounds like a really nice car, I’ve never owned a Rover, but have always admired them, and this V8 appears to be a gem 👍🙂
Congrats!!!! That V8 sounds very good. If it were my car, I would replace the old worn points and condenser with a Pertonix electronic ignition kit right away. If you are keeping the Rover long term, you might want to consider a new 123 Distributor which will allow you to tailor the ignition advance curve with your. iPhone for optimum performance on today's fuels.
Thank you! I really love the sound it makes. I run a 123 in my daily driver XJ6 and I’m happy with it. I’ll start by replacing the pints and getting the correct coil on it. Might be an upgrade in the future.
That was a really nice episode. I always loved the P6's. My mum had a 3500 in the early 70's whilst my dad ran a Range Rover. The sound of these Buick/Rover engines is beautiful.
Really enjoyed the video. This was the top of the Rover collection and a beautiful car to drive. You have done well to get it running again after 12 years.
I had a 3500S (manual) back in the day loved every moment inboard discs at the rear (pain) but the points could be adjusted while the engine was running so a dwell meter hooked up and off you go! 18 mpg local 25 mpg touring hood and trunk lid alloy I think.
Such a lovely car, and that colour suits it so well. Love the styling, being born in the 60's i remember when these were a common sight on the roads. Car of that era were just so different when it came to body styles, back in the day when collision regs and wind tunnels did not dictate how a car should look. So great to see this survivor!
I too have had a P6B, a yellow one, I sold it and bought a '86 XJ6, much regretted, the Rover was the more interesting and better all round to work on. You've got a good 'un there!
What a lovely car Adam , So pleased to see you methodically going through all the checks you done rather than just trying to start the old girl up,I’ve watched so many other people do. It’s in such a lovely condition for a 51 year old car. What is your intention to do with it once you have done all the work on it ? Looking forward to watching the progress on this lovely car.
I had a 3500 s a brilliant car.. always had a bit of fuel vaporisation in hot weather… especially stuck in traffic. Fixed it a bit with a more efficient radiator to keep things cooler if needed opening the bonnet and heater on full blast hahaha. It had a full length sunroof so no problem there. I was going to reroute the fuel line I seem to remember it went along the block in between the block and the exhaust manifold not ideal for keeping fuel cool. Love you videos. You’ll see the p6 will grow on you they’re great cars indeed.
Must check the engine breathers they get blocked and cause oil leaks. These are great engines. Very rarely overheat. Keep the engine oil clean as they have hydraulic tappets.
What a wonderful car this Rover is.Just looking up to it being taken for a good drive.These cars are now a very rare sight ,classic British motoring which is gone for good.
Great videos and love your attention recommissioning before firing up - the old girl deserves some love! My dad always had Rovers - a P4 is my earliest memory, a grey 105 which seemed so boring next to those flash Fords with “fins” and fancy colours. Then he changed to the P6 2000 manual soon after they came out, in white, when the only engine option was a 2 litre. It looked fantastic, like a spaceship after the P4 and made those Fords look, well, just flash! I loved it, but it was a bit cramped after the P4 and being the “baby” I had to sit on the hard “hump” in the middle on the back seat. Later dad had a P5B (“B” for Buick V8) auto Coupe which was like a ship after the 2000. You’ve got a beautiful car there with the best transmission option (I understand the manual could strain the transmission if driven too enthusiastically) and I’d be interested to know what are your plans for this lovely car? I’ve always hankered after one of these but, sadly, not many have survived in the UK because of the road salt used during the winter months. I guess in Sweden they don’t salt the roads but maybe just use winter tyres instead?
Textbook stuff Adam, bravo. 30psi hot at idle is correct. I love those distributors with the outside adjustment. Don’t be tempted to fit electronic ignition the original set up is fine and very reliable with new points and condenser. NB Some cleaning and lubrication is needed, you should be able to turn that adjuster with your fingers. Also check the centrifugal advance balance weights aren’t seized. A full strip down, clean lube and re-build on the bench will pay dividends, improve performance, reliability and fuel economy Re the brakes. Since you’re used to working on Jag rear ends these shouldn’t scare you too much. For rear pads you’ll need to screw the pistons back in. There is a specialist tool for this but a small spanner 11/32 or 3/8 from memory works at the expense of some sore finger ends. It’s doable on axle stands, just a question of finding a “reasonably” comfortable position where you can get both hands in there. Looking great so far, I’m so jealous but my P6 days are long gone now. Best, TonyS South Glos. U.K.
Nice car, remember when i was young in beginning of 1970 to 1975 it was a copper brown painted 3500 with an old man and woman who had it, it was a wery nice car.😇
The P6 was the last ever decent car built by Rover. From then, it was downhill all the way. Buying a new car these days, is about as exciting as shopping for groceries.
Wow, that's beautiful. You don't get them in that condition in the uk.. They dissolve with rust here. It's a lovely car to drive. Like sitting in an armchair
Seem to be the "in" classic at the moment. A few being revived in the UK by TH-camrs, both 2 litre and 3.5 litre versions. Yours has the better bodywork by far. Interesting car and a good one to see restored.
Great result Adam! I think you have lucked out. Hopefully I will slowly acquire some of your skills as I get to know my car better by working on it over the approaching summer.
You made a comment about the dashpots first calling them dampers then changed your mind to dashpots, in fact you were right both times because they are actually CALLED the dashpot dampers, in that on Skinners Union (SU) and Stromberg C.V' (Constant Velocity) carburators that is their entire function - an oil filled reaction type damper that prevents the air inlet barrel and combined fuel supply needle from opening too quickly on a sudden flooring of the accelerator and bogging the car out or stalling it - consider it an early iteration of the accelerator pump theory although in this design it doesnt actually pump any fuel. when looking a carb over stick your finger in the throat and feel the dashpot and try to lift it off its seat it should move smoothly up its bore with limited force, if it doesnt it will NEVER start or at least run properly. back in the day, when we were servicing cars with S.U's and Strombergs ( Rollers, most Leylands and Rootes/ Chryslers) we used to routinely fill the dashpot centre tube with 20w/50 engine oil ( manufacturer recommended) in summer, and neat redex upper cylinder lubricant (which is a much thinner oil akin to ATF) in winter, as a legitimate service item these dampers are in reality a major item often over looked these days by people not used to such old technologies, and not understanding how or even why it works, I've seen countless youtube will it run videos of people attempting to start vehicles such as minis etc after long lay ups and busy pumping the bejeezuss out of the throttle pedal while cranking them over and wondering why it isnt even coughing for them, I just sit and shake my head and smile at them - as since such designs dont even POSSESS an accelerator pump they are achieving absolutely nothing but a tired leg and an engine that struggles with an overly lean start mixture attempting to start from cold. due to wide open throttle valves with no fuel added When attempting to start an SU (or Stromberg) in a single OR multiple equipped vehicle that hasnt run for a long time and you are pouring neat fuel directly into the devices inlet throat DONT be tempted to even TOUCH the accelerator, bite the bullet and LEAVE IT ALONE and just crank it untill it starts at the correct stochiometric rate (fuel to air ratio). another trick to aid recalcitrant fuel delivery is crank it over for a couple of revs while blocking the inlet with your hand this has the effect of using vacuum to help fill the float bowl quicker. oh and older S.U's with manual chokes MUST be started from cold with the choke lever fully OUT - summer or winter, gradually reducing it half inch at a time as the car begins to warm up and the engine starts to hunt as yours did.... it wasnt a misfire it was simply hunting due to over fueling. hope this is a help to any of our younger viewers with little or no experience of such devices fitted to ongoing or projected rebuilds to keep in mind, by the way you were right to put anti sieze compound on the plug threads as ANY steel to aluminium interface that is subjected to high temperature changes ALWAYS results in galvanic corrosion with water as its catyliser which seizes and virtually welds them together solid - and if that happens you can be in a whole world of pain if you damage the plug threads on an alloy cylinder head trying to remove them. also with that in mind NEVER EVER put straight, neat water in the radiator - even if premixed with plain anti freeze, ALWAYS use a stand alone coolant which contains inhibitors to stop galvanic corrosion happening inside the block.
Loved these back in the day...chunky and dense. Parents had a '61 Olds F85 that was the original recipient of this engine...def looked different from the rover iteration
The metal fork next to the points pivot should have a block of thick felt soaked in oil in it, positioned to be in contact with the points cam. It lubricates the cam and prevents the plastic heel of the points wearing too quickly. Without it, or if it is dry, your points will close up very rapidly. Maybe why it died in the first place....
This is very good advice. Back in the pre-EFi days, Contact breaker Checking was a must in these old technology engines' ignition systems. Here's a funny story .. Cue ... Phone call from my son working on his classic 1982 MG 1300 Saloon which would not start after many years of ownership. Any ideas Dad? Yes son, have you checked the Points Gap in the Contact Breakers? What's Contact Breakers Dad? He had previously successfully fitted an MG K-Series VVC 1.8 to his Rover Metro 1.1c as an engine upgrade but was unaware of the old Contact Breaker Points technology. 1.1 c C for carb .. 😉Now with 1.8 VVC K--Series a pocket rocket..
Very nice. The rear brakes are a bit fiddly being inboard. Mind you, so are your Jags so I guess that's not a real issue for you. Great to see it start and run pretty well.
when i was younger man i made an extended backing trip from canada to denver along mostly backroads. alongside the road i encountered many bottles that looked identical to the one in your video. at the time, i was curious as to why they were there and what was in them, although i never investigated. now, many years later...well... let's just say that i can assure you the fluid in them was definitely NOT gasoline.! :)
When it comes to the oil change, please make sure you refill the new oil filter with as much oil as it will take before refitting it. If you don't there is danger of the oil pump not priming! This is a idiosyncratic issue with the Rover V8.
if u got a good p6 they were great especially for comfort over long distances but the quintesential rover is the p5c(b) for buick. if u find a good one buy it if u can
Hi Adam, I'm really interested in your approach to getting the P6 up and running as I have also purchased a very similar car but can't get it to start, BTW I also have a 1973 Daimler Sovereign 4.2 so I'm following you on both fronts, may be its my phone but I find your speaking volume very low and hard to follow, but I admire your organised way of approaching the car problems, thank you.
@@LivingWithAClassic I learned to drive in a 3500 SD1 so have fond memories of that engine. I’m also a Jag man and managed to find and buy my dad’s 1971 XJ6 that he sold in 1977. Hope to get it going again soon
Great job Adam! Looks like you've found yourself a winner. They must have shared the parts bin with Jaguar...I see several familiar looking parts. Again, good job, she sounds great.
Interesting that this car has SU carbs, that should make a change from the Strombergs on the Jaguars. Range Rovers of the early 70s often had Strombergs, Richard from Church House Classics does a lot with those. Triumphs of that era also chopped and changed carburettor models a lot… BL politics and emissions requirements I think.
Cue ... Phone call from my son working on his classic MG which would not start after many years of ownership. Any ideas Dad? Yes son, have you checked the Points Gap in the Contact Breakers? What's Contact Breakers Dad? He had previously successfully fitted an MG K-Series VVC 1.8 to his Rover Metro 1.1c as an engine upgrade but was unaware of the old technology. 1.1 c C for carb .. 😉
As I could not see your tools closely this comment may be off base, but it looks like you are using 1/2" wrench and sockets, professionals use 3/8" wrench and sockets the strength is still there and the walls of the sockets are thinner, that may well solve you fitment issue.
@@LivingWithAClassic it takes me back a few years working on Holdens from the sixties and even this year, keeping an old 460cu on the road. Can't seem to get excited about electric in the same way. Keep up the good work.
How absolutely fantastic, I fear you will struggle to bring yourself to sell this glorious find, perhaps you can persuade your daughter to buy it, she might agree if you promise to look after it for her.
Adam, check out :Wheeler Dealer, season 14, episode 1 featuring a Rover P5B--you may find it helpful. Sincerely, Christopher Charles, Colorado Springs, Colorado
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What a great find, beautiful car
My second car was a Monza red 3500 automatic HBN 616N, a lovely motor, kept it for 3yrs and traded it for a Range Rover which wouldn’t go past a filling station 😂 happy days.
This Rover is in such an excellent state, it makes me jealous!
Exciting project! Thanks for sharing. Door sounds great when closing!
It sounds absolutely superb. Possibly the best barn find ever! My uncle had a humble 2000 in Zircon Blue for about 12 years, lovely car. I believe this is called Monza Red.
I lied. My uncle's was Corsica Blue. Another option was Scarab Blue. If you liked blue cars Rover really spoiled you.
I remember seeing so many of them in Zircon blue when I was a kid, blue must have been the 'in' colour back then!
Unless it's gone missing, there should be a sticker on the inner wing with colour name and a Rover part number for touch up. The sticker should be near the larger sticker showing the 3500 engine maintenance detail. The firing order should be cast onto the r/h front of the alloy inlet manifold. There is a company called Rimmer Bros, in Lincoln England that specialise in most British Leyland vehicles. You can download some excellent parts catalogues and manuals for the various marques.
That's beautiful makes me sad that Rovers no longer with us
Me too! It’s a shame the mark is gone.
Very envious of you Adam, it looks and sounds like a really nice car, I’ve never owned a Rover, but have always admired them, and this V8 appears to be a gem 👍🙂
Congrats!!!! That V8 sounds very good. If it were my car, I would replace the old worn points and condenser with a Pertonix electronic ignition kit right away. If you are keeping the Rover long term, you might want to consider a new 123 Distributor which will allow you to tailor the ignition advance curve with your. iPhone for optimum performance on today's fuels.
Thank you! I really love the sound it makes.
I run a 123 in my daily driver XJ6 and I’m happy with it. I’ll start by replacing the pints and getting the correct coil on it. Might be an upgrade in the future.
That was a really nice episode. I always loved the P6's. My mum had a 3500 in the early 70's whilst my dad ran a Range Rover. The sound of these Buick/Rover engines is beautiful.
Engine sounds great too!!!
I think so too!
Someone obviously loved this car. This is definitely a win!
Really enjoyed the video. This was the top of the Rover collection and a beautiful car to drive. You have done well to get it running again after 12 years.
I had a 3500S (manual) back in the day loved every moment inboard discs at the rear (pain) but the points could be adjusted while the engine was running so a dwell meter hooked up and off you go! 18 mpg local 25 mpg touring hood and trunk lid alloy I think.
Such a lovely car, and that colour suits it so well. Love the styling, being born in the 60's i remember when these were a common sight on the roads. Car of that era were just so different when it came to body styles, back in the day when collision regs and wind tunnels did not dictate how a car should look. So great to see this survivor!
Wonderful vintage barn find! Can't wait to see your Rover charging down the road once again.
I too have had a P6B, a yellow one, I sold it and bought a '86 XJ6, much regretted, the Rover was the more interesting and better all round to work on. You've got a good 'un there!
Fantastic result Adam she sounds great looking forward to seeing the next update 👍
I’m glad you like it!
What a lovely car Adam , So pleased to see you methodically going through all the checks you done rather than just trying to start the old girl up,I’ve watched so many other people do. It’s in such a lovely condition for a 51 year old car. What is your intention to do with it once you have done all the work on it ? Looking forward to watching the progress on this lovely car.
I had a 3500 s a brilliant car.. always had a bit of fuel vaporisation in hot weather… especially stuck in traffic. Fixed it a bit with a more efficient radiator to keep things cooler if needed opening the bonnet and heater on full blast hahaha. It had a full length sunroof so no problem there. I was going to reroute the fuel line I seem to remember it went along the block in between the block and the exhaust manifold not ideal for keeping fuel cool. Love you videos. You’ll see the p6 will grow on you they’re great cars indeed.
Nice sound from that little V8. Nice project Adam, lots of fun for you and your viewers !
Must check the engine breathers they get blocked and cause oil leaks. These are great engines. Very rarely overheat. Keep the engine oil clean as they have hydraulic tappets.
I love that you're saving these British classics, I'm from the UK , my favourite car is the river p5b coupe . Or the princess type r
I hope to own a P5B coupe one day. They’re amazing!
Sunny Spring day in Sweden and the Rover is alive
What a wonderful car this Rover is.Just looking up to it being taken for a good drive.These cars are now a very rare sight ,classic British motoring which is gone for good.
Great videos and love your attention recommissioning before firing up - the old girl deserves some love!
My dad always had Rovers - a P4 is my earliest memory, a grey 105 which seemed so boring next to those flash Fords with “fins” and fancy colours. Then he changed to the P6 2000 manual soon after they came out, in white, when the only engine option was a 2 litre. It looked fantastic, like a spaceship after the P4 and made those Fords look, well, just flash! I loved it, but it was a bit cramped after the P4 and being the “baby” I had to sit on the hard “hump” in the middle on the back seat. Later dad had a P5B (“B” for Buick V8) auto Coupe which was like a ship after the 2000.
You’ve got a beautiful car there with the best transmission option (I understand the manual could strain the transmission if driven too enthusiastically) and I’d be interested to know what are your plans for this lovely car? I’ve always hankered after one of these but, sadly, not many have survived in the UK because of the road salt used during the winter months. I guess in Sweden they don’t salt the roads but maybe just use winter tyres instead?
Textbook stuff Adam, bravo. 30psi hot at idle is correct.
I love those distributors with the outside adjustment. Don’t be tempted to fit electronic ignition the original set up is fine and very reliable with new points and condenser. NB Some cleaning and lubrication is needed, you should be able to turn that adjuster with your fingers. Also check the centrifugal advance balance weights aren’t seized. A full strip down, clean lube and re-build on the bench will pay dividends, improve performance, reliability and fuel economy
Re the brakes. Since you’re used to working on Jag rear ends these shouldn’t scare you too much. For rear pads you’ll need to screw the pistons back in. There is a specialist tool for this but a small spanner 11/32 or 3/8 from memory works at the expense of some sore finger ends. It’s doable on axle stands, just a question of finding a “reasonably” comfortable position where you can get both hands in there.
Looking great so far, I’m so jealous but my P6 days are long gone now.
Best, TonyS South Glos. U.K.
Beautiful car. My barn find is red too
That's got to be on of best Rover V8's out there in unrestored condition- what an amazing find.
I think so too! I have decided to keep this one for myself
Nice car, remember when i was young in beginning of 1970 to 1975 it was a copper brown painted 3500 with an old man and woman who had it, it was a wery nice car.😇
One nice car Adam congratulations on your purchase well done on bringing it back to life can't wait to see more on this car
This reminds me of my very own V8 same colour . 1976. These cars were the Bomb in there days.
The P6 was the last ever decent car built by Rover. From then, it was downhill all the way. Buying a new car these days, is about as exciting as shopping for groceries.
That Rover in red is absolutely beautiful
Agreed!
Love the rover v8. Pity it's not the manual one😊😊. But I would still buy it from you❤️❤️
Well done pour cette magnifique P6 !
Wow, that's beautiful. You don't get them in that condition in the uk.. They dissolve with rust here. It's a lovely car to drive. Like sitting in an armchair
Seem to be the "in" classic at the moment. A few being revived in the UK by TH-camrs, both 2 litre and 3.5 litre versions. Yours has the better bodywork by far. Interesting car and a good one to see restored.
Very easy to work on . That exhaust sound awesome.
This car is saying thankyou ! Adam , you must be pinching your self ! Well done ! And someone else suggested Monza Red .
Great result Adam! I think you have lucked out. Hopefully I will slowly acquire some of your skills as I get to know my car better by working on it over the approaching summer.
you have a great looking and sounding motor she is a head turner what a beauty
that plug socket came in the cars toolkit
i think you will just love this car when you get it road ready they were police car in the uk so they move when you want
It sounds and looks lovely Adam. What a find!
Nice job these rover v8s are so good it's a similar engine as my tvr engine
You made a comment about the dashpots first calling them dampers then changed your mind to dashpots, in fact you were right both times because they are actually CALLED the dashpot dampers, in that on Skinners Union (SU) and Stromberg C.V' (Constant Velocity) carburators that is their entire function - an oil filled reaction type damper that prevents the air inlet barrel and combined fuel supply needle from opening too quickly on a sudden flooring of the accelerator and bogging the car out or stalling it - consider it an early iteration of the accelerator pump theory although in this design it doesnt actually pump any fuel. when looking a carb over stick your finger in the throat and feel the dashpot and try to lift it off its seat
it should move smoothly up its bore with limited force, if it doesnt it will NEVER start or at least run properly.
back in the day, when we were servicing cars with S.U's and Strombergs ( Rollers, most Leylands and Rootes/ Chryslers) we used to routinely fill the dashpot centre tube with 20w/50 engine oil ( manufacturer recommended) in summer, and neat redex upper cylinder lubricant (which is a much thinner oil akin to ATF) in winter, as a legitimate service item
these dampers are in reality a major item often over looked these days by people not used to such old technologies, and not understanding how or even why it works,
I've seen countless youtube will it run videos of people attempting to start vehicles such as minis etc after long lay ups and busy pumping the bejeezuss out of the throttle pedal while cranking them over and wondering why it isnt even coughing for them,
I just sit and shake my head and smile at them - as since such designs dont even POSSESS an accelerator pump they are achieving absolutely nothing but a tired leg and an engine that struggles with an overly lean start mixture attempting to start from cold. due to wide open throttle valves with no fuel added
When attempting to start an SU (or Stromberg) in a single OR multiple equipped vehicle that hasnt run for a long time and you are pouring neat fuel directly into the devices inlet throat DONT be tempted to even TOUCH the accelerator, bite the bullet and LEAVE IT ALONE and just crank it untill it starts at the correct stochiometric rate (fuel to air ratio). another trick to aid recalcitrant fuel delivery is crank it over for a couple of revs while blocking the inlet with your hand this has the effect of using vacuum to help fill the float bowl quicker.
oh and older S.U's with manual chokes MUST be started from cold with the choke lever fully OUT - summer or winter, gradually reducing it half inch at a time as the car begins to warm up and the engine starts to hunt as yours did.... it wasnt a misfire it was simply hunting due to over fueling.
hope this is a help to any of our younger viewers with little or no experience of such devices fitted to ongoing or projected rebuilds to keep in mind,
by the way you were right to put anti sieze compound on the plug threads as ANY steel to aluminium interface that is subjected to high temperature changes ALWAYS results in galvanic corrosion with water as its catyliser which seizes and virtually welds them together solid - and if that happens you can be in a whole world of pain if you damage the plug threads on an alloy cylinder head trying to remove them. also with that in mind NEVER EVER put straight, neat water in the radiator - even if premixed with plain anti freeze, ALWAYS use a stand alone coolant which contains inhibitors to stop galvanic corrosion happening inside the block.
Loved these back in the day...chunky and dense. Parents had a '61 Olds F85 that was the original recipient of this engine...def looked different from the rover iteration
Yes very different cars. The engine ended up being used in a lot of different British cars
Sounds great.
Excellent Adam, the engine sounds very strong and healthy. It would be a joy of a video detailing the engine bay and repainting the black side panels.
There will be a detailing video in the future. I haven’t made my mind up about how far I want to go with the engine bay
@Living With A Classic
To be honest, it doesn't need much, just a clean and freshen up in areas. The whole car is in fantastic condition.
That engine sounds the dogs bollocks. I think you have a gem there. Nice one.
Nice one!. Took me back to my childhood. Dad had an orange V8.
I’m glad you liked it!
The metal fork next to the points pivot should have a block of thick felt soaked in oil in it, positioned to be in contact with the points cam. It lubricates the cam and prevents the plastic heel of the points wearing too quickly. Without it, or if it is dry, your points will close up very rapidly. Maybe why it died in the first place....
This is very good advice.
Back in the pre-EFi days, Contact breaker Checking was a must in these old technology engines' ignition systems.
Here's a funny story .. Cue
... Phone call from my son working on his classic 1982 MG 1300 Saloon which would not start after many years of ownership. Any ideas Dad?
Yes son, have you checked the Points Gap in the Contact Breakers?
What's Contact Breakers Dad? He had previously successfully fitted an MG K-Series VVC 1.8 to his Rover Metro 1.1c as an engine upgrade but was unaware of the old Contact Breaker Points technology.
1.1 c C for carb .. 😉Now with 1.8 VVC K--Series a pocket rocket..
It's not a Jaguar but still a very nice looking car! Interesting to watch you go thru the process to get it going, great work!
Loverly car Adam. You have a spotless feeling for good projects. Congrats!
This car looks like a keeper rather than one to trade on/up!
I think so too
Very nice. The rear brakes are a bit fiddly being inboard. Mind you, so are your Jags so I guess that's not a real issue for you. Great to see it start and run pretty well.
They look to be easier to work on the Jaguar brakes so I hope I’ll be fine
Super jealous! I've been looking at P6s for a little while now. I guess they were all Automatics, because I've never been able to find a stick shift.
Nice job. Car is a winner !!!
Oil pressure is very good 👍
when i was younger man i made an extended backing trip from canada to denver along mostly backroads. alongside the road i encountered many bottles that looked identical to the one in your video. at the time, i was curious as to why they were there and what was in them, although i never investigated. now, many years later...well...
let's just say that i can assure you the fluid in them was definitely NOT gasoline.! :)
Excellent RoverV8......looks mint
It is! Going to be great once I detail the whole car
When it comes to the oil change, please make sure you refill the new oil filter with as much oil as it will take before refitting it. If you don't there is danger of the oil pump not priming! This is a idiosyncratic issue with the Rover V8.
Yes I’m aware it can be an issue on these. I have ordered the correct oil filter with the one was valve also
Great video 😊 thanks
I used to replace the Lucas points with Bosch type and I also had electronic ignition fitted plugs were NGK instead of good old Champion type 8 29:56
if u got a good p6 they were great especially for comfort over long distances but the quintesential rover is the p5c(b) for buick. if u find a good one buy it if u can
I’m going to say you scored a great buy
I think so too
Hi Adam, I'm really interested in your approach to getting the P6 up and running as I have also purchased a very similar car but can't get it to start, BTW I also have a 1973 Daimler Sovereign 4.2 so I'm following you on both fronts, may be its my phone but I find your speaking volume very low and hard to follow, but I admire your organised way of approaching the car problems, thank you.
felt the sense of acomplishment when the motor started. Just a Q, what is the key hole left of the steering coloum for, lock the glovebox?
Yes it is. Both glove boxes have locks on them
Also referred to as shinbins, for obvious reasons.
Blinking marvellous 👍
I’m glad you like it!
@@LivingWithAClassic I learned to drive in a 3500 SD1 so have fond memories of that engine. I’m also a Jag man and managed to find and buy my dad’s 1971 XJ6 that he sold in 1977. Hope to get it going again soon
Congrats, what a joy. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😁
Thank you!
Great job Adam! Looks like you've found yourself a winner. They must have shared the parts bin with Jaguar...I see several familiar looking parts. Again, good job, she sounds great.
Yes som parts seem to be shared with Jaguars of the time and Triumph too
Interesting that this car has SU carbs, that should make a change from the Strombergs on the Jaguars. Range Rovers of the early 70s often had Strombergs, Richard from Church House Classics does a lot with those. Triumphs of that era also chopped and changed carburettor models a lot… BL politics and emissions requirements I think.
Lovely car. Nice work
Exciting
Cue ... Phone call from my son working on his classic MG which would not start after many years of ownership. Any ideas Dad?
Yes son, have you checked the Points Gap in the Contact Breakers?
What's Contact Breakers Dad? He had previously successfully fitted an MG K-Series VVC 1.8 to his Rover Metro 1.1c as an engine upgrade but was unaware of the old technology. 1.1 c C for carb .. 😉
As I could not see your tools closely this comment may be off base, but it looks like you are using 1/2" wrench and sockets, professionals use 3/8" wrench and sockets the strength is still there and the walls of the sockets are thinner, that may well solve you fitment issue.
I had both out and all had too thick walls for the spark plugs here. I have shaved one down now that fits.
That was awesome, well done! That sounds like a tight engine.
Yes it seems to be a good engine. Glad you liked it!
@@LivingWithAClassic it takes me back a few years working on Holdens from the sixties and even this year, keeping an old 460cu on the road. Can't seem to get excited about electric in the same way. Keep up the good work.
It’s petrol for me forever
Well done Adam. Great purchase!
Don’t sell it! MGC next?
Maybe, I do like them and especially in GT form
Lot of good upgrades you can do too!
Very nice what year is that white xj6 I have a s3 1979 xj6 looks the same great vid
It’s a 1977 XJ12. I’m glad you liked it!
Loved this video very intersting adam
Magic!
How absolutely fantastic, I fear you will struggle to bring yourself to sell this glorious find, perhaps you can persuade your daughter to buy it, she might agree if you promise to look after it for her.
That was far too easy ;-)
Been well looked after
Low miles and always been inside has helped
Adam, check out :Wheeler Dealer, season 14, episode 1 featuring a Rover P5B--you may find it helpful. Sincerely, Christopher Charles, Colorado Springs, Colorado
Wow !
Quality Bosch plugs...someone has looked after it.
Yes it has been well looked after
Eddie china or wheeler dealers is to watch for info on this car
best rovers p6
Do you mind me asking what it cost you.
You definitely purchased a bargain.
It's a Buick v8 ,,Buick had made this v8 but did not like it,and rover bought the rights to it and produced it for there cars..
We’ll both yes and no. Originally it’s a Buick V8 however it was redesigned and modified to suit Rover and the European way of driving
please crank up the sound, you are very quiet and getting more difficult to hear, which is terrible ; )
Congratulations Adam and it sounds beautiful. ❤