This was such a helpful video! I appreciate that you took the time to document your mistakes AND shared them with us. There a lots of videos that have warned us of things NOT to do, but, as a new weaver, I don’t always understand the WHY. Thank you!
I made my own warp tensioning device based exactly on your video. Thank you for sharing that, as well as these tips with us. I've got a 32" rigid heddle and my current project is a very complicated design (Eight curtain panels that are 30" x 72" each) for the whole width with 8/2 cotton, and the tensioning device is a game changer. It will make panels 4 - 8 go much more smoothly. 😄
I have tried this... I have a 24" Ashford rigid heddle loom on an Ashford new style stand. (Looks like yours.) How do you keep the loom from tilting forward as the warping goes along? Mine always gets tighter toward the middle of the heddle and the back of the stand rises up.
I think you are probably pulling the double loop through for too long, or maybe pulling your threads too tightly. Once the loop is through, seperate and only pull the loose thread through and gently place the threads on the warping board. This should stop the warp pulling on the your Rigid heddle. Give this a go, and let me know if it worked. Good luck!
Do you think this is possible with a warping mill if not using too much tension? Also,does the warp tensioning device help with the issue of the edge threads having to line up right on top of each other ( or you get weird selvedge issues)
Hi there. To be honest, I’m not sure but give it a go and let me know! I haven’t had this issue with the edge threads at all, I’m wondering if the selvedges are too tight?
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane Thanks, I will! The issue is that when I wind it on (iether my ashford or my cricket) if the last thread drops down so it is beside the roll of yarn that has been created, then that is shorter and therefore tighter than the others. Sometimes to the extent that I have to replace it (or just cut it off). I know other people who also have this issue sometimes, but some who don't.
Ooohhh I get it now! Yes, this is tricky if you use the full length of the reed, or your warp seperater isn’t the full length of the back beam. I think this could be avoided by using a more rigid way of separating your warp when winding on, such as thin wooden slats that go the full length on the back beam. Let me know how you go!
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane I'm thinking the tensioning device might do the trick! I use slats from miniblinds rather than paper when winding on, helps a bit.
I’m just about to try this with a warping mill. Only going with a shortish 4m warp, as I’m not sure how it will go. Using my 15” Cricket, which I don’t like as much as my Ashford and this will be a random piece of cloth, scarf width. Do yu have a website? I can take photos and send to you
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
This was such a helpful video! I appreciate that you took the time to document your mistakes AND shared them with us. There a lots of videos that have warned us of things NOT to do, but, as a new weaver, I don’t always understand the WHY. Thank you!
You are welcome! So glad you found this helpful!
Great tips. I've just bought this warping board so couldn't be more timely. Thanks for sharing :-)
Ooooh! I’m excited to see your weaving for clothing in 2024.
Me too! I need to get on the Slow Fashion bandwagon. It will be fun to plan and weave my own clothes
I don't see the link to the tension device.
Thanks for letting me know! I have added in the description 😊
This is a great and informative video I’ve never seen this trick but I will be doing this the next time I warp my loom
Glad it was helpful!
I made my own warp tensioning device based exactly on your video. Thank you for sharing that, as well as these tips with us. I've got a 32" rigid heddle and my current project is a very complicated design (Eight curtain panels that are 30" x 72" each) for the whole width with 8/2 cotton, and the tensioning device is a game changer. It will make panels 4 - 8 go much more smoothly. 😄
Good luck with your curtains, how exciting
Bravo You for showing how not to do things as well as how to do them. Makes everyone feel better when they make mistakes.
Thank you!
Thanks for the tips Steph. I'm a newby at weaving and enjoying watching and learning from your videos. ❤
You are so welcome!
Don't cross your warp , might make nice merch ☺️
Haha!
I have tried this... I have a 24" Ashford rigid heddle loom on an Ashford new style stand. (Looks like yours.) How do you keep the loom from tilting forward as the warping goes along? Mine always gets tighter toward the middle of the heddle and the back of the stand rises up.
I think you are probably pulling the double loop through for too long, or maybe pulling your threads too tightly. Once the loop is through, seperate and only pull the loose thread through and gently place the threads on the warping board. This should stop the warp pulling on the your Rigid heddle. Give this a go, and let me know if it worked. Good luck!
Incredibly helpful, thank you!
You are welcome!
Thanks for sharing your hard earned lessons with us!
You are welcome 😊
Great use of those paper bags from coles and woollies!
Haha! They are literally perfect once cut up!
Thank you for sharing your wisdom ❤❤❤
You are so welcome!
You did an amazing job on explaining this, but all this told me was this looks like the most painful way ever to warp a RHL 😞
It takes a bit to get used to, but I love it now!
Do you think this is possible with a warping mill if not using too much tension?
Also,does the warp tensioning device help with the issue of the edge threads having to line up right on top of each other ( or you get weird selvedge issues)
Hi there. To be honest, I’m not sure but give it a go and let me know! I haven’t had this issue with the edge threads at all, I’m wondering if the selvedges are too tight?
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane Thanks, I will! The issue is that when I wind it on (iether my ashford or my cricket) if the last thread drops down so it is beside the roll of yarn that has been created, then that is shorter and therefore tighter than the others. Sometimes to the extent that I have to replace it (or just cut it off). I know other people who also have this issue sometimes, but some who don't.
Ooohhh I get it now! Yes, this is tricky if you use the full length of the reed, or your warp seperater isn’t the full length of the back beam. I think this could be avoided by using a more rigid way of separating your warp when winding on, such as thin wooden slats that go the full length on the back beam. Let me know how you go!
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane I'm thinking the tensioning device might do the trick! I use slats from miniblinds rather than paper when winding on, helps a bit.
I’m just about to try this with a warping mill. Only going with a shortish 4m warp, as I’m not sure how it will go. Using my 15” Cricket, which I don’t like as much as my Ashford and this will be a random piece of cloth, scarf width. Do yu have a website? I can take photos and send to you