Try adding a soapy solution of water, to allow the tire "set" correctly. The soap and rubber combination allows the side wall to 'slip' into the bead easier.
That was a good tip for new tractor owners Neil. However, the dry dusty seal you have on the bead of that tire may still leak air slowly. Before you start to fill the tire if you spray the bead with soapy water and give it a wipe you can all but eliminate that slow leak from happening. Before there were ratchet straps we used to use chain and a pry bar stuck through the links to put around the center of the tire and then twist the chain with the pry bar to tighten the chain around the tire and get the beads to spread and meet both sides of the rim.
I recently subscribed to your channel. I just paid $80,000.00 cash on a Kubota L3560 tractor with a cab. With the price came a snowblower, mid-range loader bucket, box blade, snowblower, and a log grapple plus $2000.00 for delivery. I am 58 years old and thought that hydraulics would compensate for my older age and it has! I live in Alaska where we have had a record snowfall of 120 inches! I have been shoveling all my roofs off so the roofs would not collapse under the weight of the snow. My neighbor's garage roof and greenhouse roof have collapsed under the 10 plus feet of snow that we have received. Your U Tube channel is awesome and very informative, keep up the good work! I really need your expertise to maintain my tractor! I am an 82nd Airbourne ranger combat veteran that loves my country but not so much my representatives! God bless my friend and stay safe with the madman Putin on the rampage! BUY SOME IODINE TABLETS! FOR RADIATION! Raymond Peterson.
I may be the only person that you find that has iodine tablets in my kitchen. I live only a couple miles from Three Mile Island, they provide them to us.
I've done similar -- but not (yet) with my BX25D! Three "tips" include: 1. Take a damp (water) rag and WIPE both the inner side of rim and outside of tire. If there's crud on either, it will (again) leak shortly after your "fix" 2/ Complementary to above, I smear Dawn or similar dish-washing detergent about entire rim before seal/air input, too. This insures a better seal and does not hurt rubber. 3/ Rather than purchase of/use of the ratchet strap, i HIGHLY recommend simply tying a length of rope into a lop but a few inches in diameter larger than the off-rim tire. Insert a piece of wood dowel, tree branch, or whatever you may have at hand and start twisting it. Generally, parallel with ground underneath the tire/wheel is required. Then, when it appears squnched enough (technical term) to accept air, just step on branch/dowel end to hold it sealed while inflating. Upon inflation, you then can safely un-wind your branch/dowel. No worries/chance of snap from the ratchet strap. My suggestions.... george in Potsda, New York
Yeh the starter fluid/WD-40 trick can backfire (pun intended). My wife met your sister-in-law Kim at a party in San Antonio this week. She said she was a "hoot and 1/2".
Sometimes after you wipe down the bead you can hook your air hose on with air flowing and turn the tire slowly it will just enough for the bead to make contact and inflate not always but sometimes. If it does not then my go to is the strap. Always great information and tips from Neal . Keep up the great vedios
That's how I've done it for years. Used to do trailer work (many moons ago) and the tires we got were stacked in piles for extended periods and crushed flat. The tie down trick works even when a "burp tank" won't. I've occasionally used the ether and toss a kitchen match from as far away as possible, have someone ready with the hose if you choose to try this technique, and be careful. I've never personally heard of someone getting hurt with the method, or catching their equipment on fire, but the risk is sure there. I highly recommend the tie down method in nearly all cases. Less dramatic, and at my stage in life, that's fine with me. Minimum drama here, thank you. Thanks for another real world video.
Appears majority of best practices have been listed - one more suggestion, once tire is seated, inflate to at least 2x your preferred running pressure, then reduce as appropriate. Why you may ask. This allows the bead to fully seat to the wheel, preventing tire/wheel slip, deflation due to poorly seating and ensures fully seated around the entire wheel.
How often should a tire come off the rim? Have a Kioti CK3510SE with only 130 hrs. Had a back tire come off the rim and rimguard run all over my lawn. This was at around 80 hours. The about at 110 hours a front tire came off the rim. I am spot on with servicing, greesing, torques, air as well as garaged when not in use. There's a long list of what's gone wrong with this tractor which led to 5 trips back to the dealer. Frustrated Kioti owner. Thank you for sharing the tip.
I've got the same brand and none of the issues. Sounds like something wasn't right when you got it. I have over 300 hours and just had the front tire come off the rim because it was low and then I toted a heavy bucket using a chain to hoist it up onto my flatbed...
I used this method, and lost the bead several times in a row. I finally learned about "bead sealant" which I used. I have not lost the bead since. I wish someone had told me sooner about bead sealant: fairly cheap and available from most auto parts dealers.
Had a flat on my bx23s no where near my house and shop. I didn't have a ratchet strap. I did have a little 12 volt compressor. Since the front end loader was holding the tire less front end up. I used the down rigger on the backhoe as a sort of press to squeeze it down just enough to get the bead to seat. It did the job. You have to get creative with what you have available.
So appreciate this method as it was a little challenging at first but with soap and water and a little pulling, we got the tire inflated on my lawn tractor. Thank you
I used a ratchet strap on a small tire on a dump cart. I guess I put just a little too much air in the tire because when I went to release the strap, the buckle hit my knuckles hard enough to make them sore for days. I'm having an L2502 delivered this week! Sorry, Texas resident and you're too far away. I love your videos! I'm learning so much!
everything you said, but with a couple of additions. usually when the tire comes off the bead, there's all sorts of mud and dirt jammed in there. It's a good idea to get a wet soapy rag/brush/sponge/whatever, and clean the tire and the bead surface. the soap also helps the bead seal faster and smoother (plus the soap bubbles will tell you if you've got a leak)
Take the schrader valve out of the valve stem to get more air flow. Also get a locking tire chuck so your hands are not right next to the tire in case something goes wrong.
One potential issue with this method is some air chucks are spring loaded and require the core in place to release the spring in the chuck for air to flow.
Great video as always. Just one tip. While you’re all set up check and fill all tires. It could have been a tire pressure issue that caused the first tire to come off the rim.
This also works with rope and a stick. I've done it. Just tie the rope around the tire and the stick and twist the stick until you get pressure on the tire. Love these fixes.
It worked for me after I added some dish soap and kept trying to get enough air between the wheel and tire. The tire popped right in. Then I removed the strap and added air to 30 psi. Thank you.
I've done basically the same thing except i didn't have a ratchet strap available. I simply used a chain connected with a bit of slack to it. Then put a bar between the chain and the tire then twisted the chain with the bar. Accomplishes the exact same thing. Just an option in case folks can't find a ratchet strap. I happen to carry a length of chain on my tractor at all times anyway.
This just worked for me! thanks so much for posting. Did this for rear tire on Kabota B3030. Also thanks below for the suggestion of adding soapy water!
I had to use that same method on a walk behind snowblower. It was New & not yet used sitting up at the cabin. 🤷♂️ I was very glad I had been introduced to that method years prior, but never needed till then.
I had that problem on L3400 too many times to count. Always came back to a leak in the metal valve stems. Ended up buying tubes about 5 years ago, and haven't had that problem since.
Hey Neil. Stopped by at both locations to say hello. The new place is huge. Nice! Sorry we missed you. I just bought a new LX3310HSTC from Vince at Murphy's. Stop by to see Cummins and Bricker. Working to get a Baumalight prototype MS348 for the loader with a power pack summer 2022. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for videos. Great information
Very useful tip. Last time mine came off the bead I just took it off and to a local tire shop to reset it. However, I could have saved $15 and the time driving if I had known about this.
Dude.....your a rental companies nightmare. Flat tie, bent grill guard, and dented hood. Nothing parties like a rental! All kidding aside, good info on the tire fix Neil.
Had a Kubota M59 get a complete flat while lifting a pallet on a job last week. Luckily I had a ratchet strap in the truck, worked like a charm, even with a tiny job site compressor
Been there, done that - works very well, but WATCH OUT for the spinning ratchet wheel when you release the strap tension, that wheel will spin like a circular saw blade (I can show you the scars).
This happens to me all the time when clearing brush. It never fails that I'll bust off a valve stem and by the time I notice it the tire is off the rim. I use a come-a-long. The cable squeezes the tire a little better and the longer handle gives you more leverage.
Tore the valve stem out of my right front wheel doing tornado cleanup in Mayfield Kentucky on Wednesday. In that situation, this would not work (no valve stem) but this is a great hack, great job, Neal. Thanks again to Smith's Tire Service and Repair for getting me back in operation so quickly. They also replaced a trailer tire that blew on my way into town.
Thanks for the trick. I had the same problem tire flat one morning. I inflated the tire but the loss of air persisted. The cause was dirt and tiny rocks that was caught on the bead. Had to take the tire to the tire shop where they removed the tire from the rim. They cleaned the rim and the tire bead, reassembled the tire/wheel, put sealant on the bead and inflated the tire. The cause of the problem was slightly under inflated tires moving a heavy loads turning in sharp circles.
I would have tried to wipe the rim first, to get off any dirt that got in. Haven't had to do this with my Kubota... but I had a wheelbarrow that EVERY spring... Finally bought tire sealant and (hopefully, seem to have) solved that slow leak issue.
I have that problem with every small pneumatic tire. I just go to Harbor Freight and replace them with the flat free tires as needed. Much less hassle.
With the dust and dirt on that tire, I would have put my glasses on first, in case it launched a piece of dirt when the bead seated. I also agree with the other commenters on the use of a locking tire chuck if you have one. Be safe out there with compressed air, and keep the great content coming.
Extremely rare for a tire to break the bead unless driven flat, messick should know better. Starter fluid not encouraged but highly effective. The cheetah inflator is much faster, they are so inexpensive now (chinese), should be part of every tool arsenal. To the safety police: KMA
This was the first method I thought to seal a bead on a lawn tractor tire, but it's still a 1/2" away. Will update if I find another suggestion that works.
Soap up the tire,it helps it conform to the rim, take out the valve core,it let's a higher volume of air into the tire,be ready to put it back in once the tire seats. Starting fluid works great, make sure the wheel is on the tractor Put some fluid in the tire let it vaporize run some fluid outside the tire make a trail on the ground away from the tire,lite the trail,be ready to air the tire as soon as the tire expands!!!
I just had this happen 5 days ago. I removed the valve core and pushed the air hose (no air chuck in it) over the valve stem. It injected enough air volume to reseat the beads. I put the valve core back in and aired it up.
I’ve put starter fluid on them and lit them. Few tips: - Keep the garden hose handy just in case. - Take the valve stem out first. - I’d never do it on a tire still attached to the unit. - Only use it as a last option. 99% of tires I’ve ever worked with didn’t need the “explosive” technique. People over do it because they just like playing with fire.
First wear safety glasses, clean the bead with a damp cloth with a product like glass clean, take the valve core out, put the air filler on, and hit the tire face until it beads. And put the valve core back in when done
When mounting trailer tires at my house on the floor. I’ve had good luck pulling the valve core and using a blow gun to to inflate the tire to set beads. You can get a lot of air shot in there pretty fast like an actual tire machine. Get that first real fast blast of air in the tire for rapid expansion.
I do believe you mean you remove the valve stem core, the the valve stem! Removal of the valve stem would require breaking the bead seal to replace the valve stem, whereas the core removal just requires a tool design for that purpose!
so the one thing that I've done on my Kubota that I have never regretted is having tubes installed in all the tires...... for those that don't know, the R4 tires don't come with tubes- my dealer told me it was because they are an industrial tire and they can be plugged if you get a hole in a tire. but if you're Kubota came with R1's then they supposedly came with tubes from the factory as they're more of a farming tire. the design of the Kubota rim doesn't have a "bead retention ring" such as found in automotive rims, and this makes it so that if they get a little low on air the tire has a much easier time coming off the Kubota rim than if it had been formed with a decent bead retention ring built into the rim. I found this out, much like Neil did, when i had a tire come off the rim. after dealing with that, all the tires got tubes and I haven't had a problem since. EDIT: for what it's worth, i have a MX series Kubota that came equipped with large R4 skidsteer sized tires on the front, i tried the ratchet strap method, even went and got some of my biggest cargo tie down straps and i couldn't get the beads to flex out to seal to re-air up- another reason i went with tubes.
Great video. Always great info. Thanks. I’m a new LX owner and I would like to know more about diesel fuel additives. Especially storage and winter. Have you done videos on that topic? Thanks
Try jacking it up like you did, but take the core out of the valve stem and pull the tire with your hand to close off little leaks while you’ve got the air going to it. Your little compressor may not be able to put enough air through the hose to blow the tire up, but most with a 10 or 20 gallon tank have enough air reserve in them to easily inflate a tire with the valve core removed. Once you get 15 or 20 PSI in the tire stop putting air in and put the valve core back in before you lose too much air and it comes back off the rim.
Where was this video a couple of years ago when I needed it?! 🤣 But the easiest way, for me, is take the wheel off, take it to the dealer, let them fix it, and then put it back on the tractor. 🤣🤣🤣
Geez Neil why didn't ya just call AAA LOL. Your method works pretty well, I've done that on lawn/garden tractor tires several times. I pull the shrader valve out of the valve stem prior to trying to reseat the bead though, as it gives full air flow through the valve stem...the shrader valve is pretty restricting when it comes to trying to seat a tire bead...that's why tire shops do this as well. This shows you don't need fancy tire shop stuff to fix a tire that's come off the bead...happens quite often on farm equipment.
I’d put soapy water on the bead . I have used just a piece of rope a put it around the tire and tie it. Put a bar in and twist until it seals . Tire guys use either Allot.. sometime you can get it to seat by just playing with it
If you don't have a fancy ratchet strap, you can do this with a simple piece of rope. Tie the rope loosely around the tire, put a stick, pipe or breaker bar under the rope and twist it like a tourniquet to put the pressure on the tire an push the bead out.
I saw an inflated strap used in a tire shop before. Similar idea. Inflation tanks have probably replaced. I know a guy that lost the tip of his thumb when the bead popped on.
Good way of checking for leaks is to fill a weed sprayer with soap water and spray the whole tire with it and look for bubbles. Go heavy on the dish soap.
Assuming that's a 25x8.5-14 tire, would u happen to know what size inner tube fits ? That would be the only way i can still use my tire without replacement and the tires aren't cheap. Thanks
Only thing I could add would be to clean/ inspect the bead of the wheel and tire the best you can to prevent future slow leaking problems. That and investigate / plug whatever caused the air loss to begin with to hopefully fix the actual cause of the problem instead of just addressing the symptom. Soapy water works good for mounting lube, compared to going in dry, makes a world of difference. The higher the temperature of the assembly the better, left inside a heated shop to thaw out overnight when it’s winter can make what was an impossible mount happen like butter. Overall I found the “cheetah” air tanks are the most reliable, safest and least amount of labor. Most the shops I worked at had scary looking home made ones, I ordered a regular one online and after using it I’d say it was far to expensive and don’t recommend doing that because it’s really just a shiny copy of those home made ones that had a pipe hammered into the shape of a duck bill. If this is a common problem you or your shop deal with I suggest making your own cheetah tank. But definitely try to clean the bead and plug the hole or whatever to save a future headache. Of course when it’s a loaner or rental, reality boys, strap it together, blow some air in it and send it home. It’s only your problem as long as it’s yours.
We don't normally see you do anything mechanical, doing what you did with that tire wasn't fully correct, so I expect that. Narrating your videos is your strongest suit. :) lol Spray or pore water at the top of wheel at the bead of the tire on both sides, this will act as a lubricant and help the tire slip back into position and maybe brake-down some of the old tire sealant. Of course, if you have tire sealing lubricant that's even better, as it will seal the tire to the wheel..
Try adding a soapy solution of water, to allow the tire "set" correctly. The soap and rubber combination allows the side wall to 'slip' into the bead easier.
thanks Neil for the suggestion
That was a good tip for new tractor owners Neil. However, the dry dusty seal you have on the bead of that tire may still leak air slowly. Before you start to fill the tire if you spray the bead with soapy water and give it a wipe you can all but eliminate that slow leak from happening. Before there were ratchet straps we used to use chain and a pry bar stuck through the links to put around the center of the tire and then twist the chain with the pry bar to tighten the chain around the tire and get the beads to spread and meet both sides of the rim.
I recently subscribed to your channel. I just paid $80,000.00 cash on a Kubota L3560 tractor with a cab. With the price came a snowblower, mid-range loader bucket, box blade, snowblower, and a log grapple plus $2000.00 for delivery. I am 58 years old and thought that hydraulics would compensate for my older age and it has! I live in Alaska where we have had a record snowfall of 120 inches! I have been shoveling all my roofs off so the roofs would not collapse under the weight of the snow. My neighbor's garage roof and greenhouse roof have collapsed under the 10 plus feet of snow that we have received. Your U Tube channel is awesome and very informative, keep up the good work! I really need your expertise to maintain my tractor! I am an 82nd Airbourne ranger combat veteran that loves my country but not so much my representatives! God bless my friend and stay safe with the madman Putin on the rampage! BUY SOME IODINE TABLETS! FOR RADIATION!
Raymond Peterson.
I may be the only person that you find that has iodine tablets in my kitchen. I live only a couple miles from Three Mile Island, they provide them to us.
I have used this method several times on smaller tires on zero turn, works great and a lot safer than other methods
I've done similar -- but not (yet) with my BX25D! Three "tips" include:
1. Take a damp (water) rag and WIPE both the inner side of rim and outside of tire. If there's crud on either, it will (again) leak shortly after your "fix"
2/ Complementary to above, I smear Dawn or similar dish-washing detergent about entire rim before seal/air input, too. This insures a better seal and does not hurt rubber.
3/ Rather than purchase of/use of the ratchet strap, i HIGHLY recommend simply tying a length of rope into a lop but a few inches in diameter larger than the off-rim tire. Insert a piece of wood dowel, tree branch, or whatever you may have at hand and start twisting it. Generally, parallel with ground underneath the tire/wheel is required. Then, when it appears squnched enough (technical term) to accept air, just step on branch/dowel end to hold it sealed while inflating. Upon inflation, you then can safely un-wind your branch/dowel. No worries/chance of snap from the ratchet strap.
My suggestions....
george in Potsda, New York
Yeh the starter fluid/WD-40 trick can backfire (pun intended).
My wife met your sister-in-law Kim at a party in San Antonio this week. She said she was a "hoot and 1/2".
Sometimes after you wipe down the bead you can hook your air hose on with air flowing and turn the tire slowly it will just enough for the bead to make contact and inflate not always but sometimes. If it does not then my go to is the strap. Always great information and tips from Neal . Keep up the great vedios
If one bead is still on. I use a locking air chuck. Hook up to tire with shop air and pull tire toward the side that is unseated.
That's how I've done it for years. Used to do trailer work (many moons ago) and the tires we got were stacked in piles for extended periods and crushed flat. The tie down trick works even when a "burp tank" won't. I've occasionally used the ether and toss a kitchen match from as far away as possible, have someone ready with the hose if you choose to try this technique, and be careful. I've never personally heard of someone getting hurt with the method, or catching their equipment on fire, but the risk is sure there. I highly recommend the tie down method in nearly all cases. Less dramatic, and at my stage in life, that's fine with me. Minimum drama here, thank you.
Thanks for another real world video.
Appears majority of best practices have been listed - one more suggestion, once tire is seated, inflate to at least 2x your preferred running pressure, then reduce as appropriate. Why you may ask. This allows the bead to fully seat to the wheel, preventing tire/wheel slip, deflation due to poorly seating and ensures fully seated around the entire wheel.
How often should a tire come off the rim? Have a Kioti CK3510SE with only 130 hrs. Had a back tire come off the rim and rimguard run all over my lawn. This was at around 80 hours. The about at 110 hours a front tire came off the rim. I am spot on with servicing, greesing, torques, air as well as garaged when not in use. There's a long list of what's gone wrong with this tractor which led to 5 trips back to the dealer. Frustrated Kioti owner. Thank you for sharing the tip.
I've got the same brand and none of the issues. Sounds like something wasn't right when you got it. I have over 300 hours and just had the front tire come off the rim because it was low and then I toted a heavy bucket using a chain to hoist it up onto my flatbed...
I used this method, and lost the bead several times in a row. I finally learned about "bead sealant" which I used. I have not lost the bead since. I wish someone had told me sooner about bead sealant: fairly cheap and available from most auto parts dealers.
Had a flat on my bx23s no where near my house and shop. I didn't have a ratchet strap. I did have a little 12 volt compressor. Since the front end loader was holding the tire less front end up. I used the down rigger on the backhoe as a sort of press to squeeze it down just enough to get the bead to seat. It did the job. You have to get creative with what you have available.
I have used this method of seating tires back on the rim for years. Has worked every time for me
So appreciate this method as it was a little challenging at first but with soap and water and a little pulling, we got the tire inflated on my lawn tractor. Thank you
That grille guard and hood look sweet! Is that a custom design?
💥 That’s exactly what I do. Now to find that pesky leak and plug it.
*Keep on tractoring!*
I used a ratchet strap on a small tire on a dump cart. I guess I put just a little too much air in the tire because when I went to release the strap, the buckle hit my knuckles hard enough to make them sore for days. I'm having an L2502 delivered this week! Sorry, Texas resident and you're too far away. I love your videos! I'm learning so much!
A bottle of soapy water goes a long way to help the bead to seal and seat up as well. The strap method has always been my go to in the field.
everything you said, but with a couple of additions. usually when the tire comes off the bead, there's all sorts of mud and dirt jammed in there. It's a good idea to get a wet soapy rag/brush/sponge/whatever, and clean the tire and the bead surface. the soap also helps the bead seal faster and smoother (plus the soap bubbles will tell you if you've got a leak)
Take the schrader valve out of the valve stem to get more air flow. Also get a locking tire chuck so your hands are not right next to the tire in case something goes wrong.
One potential issue with this method is some air chucks are spring loaded and require the core in place to release the spring in the chuck for air to flow.
@@coypatton3160 use the end of a hose! Don't need that valve to are a tire you need it to keep it in !
Good advice! That's what the I find works for me.
Great video as always. Just one tip. While you’re all set up check and fill all tires. It could have been a tire pressure issue that caused the first tire to come off the rim.
This also works with rope and a stick. I've done it. Just tie the rope around the tire and the stick and twist the stick until you get pressure on the tire. Love these fixes.
@1:13 -- What happened to the front of that tractor? It looks like something fell on the hood and the front grill protector?
It worked for me after I added some dish soap and kept trying to get enough air between the wheel and tire. The tire popped right in. Then I removed the strap and added air to 30 psi. Thank you.
Thanks!!!!! My tire went flat during our snow storm this weekend. Will give this a try this evening.
I've done basically the same thing except i didn't have a ratchet strap available. I simply used a chain connected with a bit of slack to it. Then put a bar between the chain and the tire then twisted the chain with the bar. Accomplishes the exact same thing. Just an option in case folks can't find a ratchet strap. I happen to carry a length of chain on my tractor at all times anyway.
This just worked for me! thanks so much for posting. Did this for rear tire on Kabota B3030. Also thanks below for the suggestion of adding soapy water!
Glad it helped!
I had to use that same method on a walk behind snowblower. It was New & not yet used sitting up at the cabin. 🤷♂️ I was very glad I had been introduced to that method years prior, but never needed till then.
I had that problem on L3400 too many times to count. Always came back to a leak in the metal valve stems. Ended up buying tubes about 5 years ago, and haven't had that problem since.
I've done that I've also used grease they both work
Worked like a dream. Saved my morning. Thank you.
Hey Neil. Stopped by at both locations to say hello. The new place is huge. Nice! Sorry we missed you. I just bought a new LX3310HSTC from Vince at Murphy's. Stop by to see Cummins and Bricker. Working to get a Baumalight prototype MS348 for the loader with a power pack summer 2022. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Thanks for videos. Great information
REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR VIDEOS, SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE SOMETHING BEFORE.
Very useful tip. Last time mine came off the bead I just took it off and to a local tire shop to reset it. However, I could have saved $15 and the time driving if I had known about this.
Dude.....your a rental companies nightmare. Flat tie, bent grill guard, and dented hood. Nothing parties like a rental! All kidding aside, good info on the tire fix Neil.
Had a Kubota M59 get a complete flat while lifting a pallet on a job last week. Luckily I had a ratchet strap in the truck, worked like a charm, even with a tiny job site compressor
Been there and done that Neil. I've heard of using eather or starting fluid but, as you said extremely dangerous.
Been there, done that - works very well, but WATCH OUT for the spinning ratchet wheel when you release the strap tension, that wheel will spin like a circular saw blade (I can show you the scars).
Thankyou for this video my tyre has just come off and although I haven't got it back on yet I feel more confident that I can get it on thankyou
Good job with the tire change
I used this method for my little trailer tires most tire shops won't do them.
This happens to me all the time when clearing brush. It never fails that I'll bust off a valve stem and by the time I notice it the tire is off the rim. I use a come-a-long. The cable squeezes the tire a little better and the longer handle gives you more leverage.
Tore the valve stem out of my right front wheel doing tornado cleanup in Mayfield Kentucky on Wednesday. In that situation, this would not work (no valve stem) but this is a great hack, great job, Neal. Thanks again to Smith's Tire Service and Repair for getting me back in operation so quickly. They also replaced a trailer tire that blew on my way into town.
Thank you.. this saved me a trip to a repair shop
Thanks for the trick. I had the same problem tire flat one morning. I inflated the tire but the loss of air persisted. The cause was dirt and tiny rocks that was caught on the bead. Had to take the tire to the tire shop where they removed the tire from the rim. They cleaned the rim and the tire bead, reassembled the tire/wheel, put sealant on the bead and inflated the tire. The cause of the problem was slightly under inflated tires moving a heavy loads turning in sharp circles.
Kubota should include valve protectors on all of the front tires. I have ripped the valve off twice working in mud and rocks on L3800.
👍🏼 Fully agree! 😎✌🏼
My B model has them.
@@JR-es5zl yeah I've seen them on some of the models that's why I am aware that there's no excuse for for them not to be on every single rim
Worked like a charm. Thanks!
Use a cheetah type bead seater and a Milton locking chuck for continuous air flow. Works every time with out the danger.
Great tip, never thought about doing it that way.
I would have tried to wipe the rim first, to get off any dirt that got in. Haven't had to do this with my Kubota... but I had a wheelbarrow that EVERY spring... Finally bought tire sealant and (hopefully, seem to have) solved that slow leak issue.
I have that problem with every small pneumatic tire. I just go to Harbor Freight and replace them with the flat free tires as needed. Much less hassle.
With the dust and dirt on that tire, I would have put my glasses on first, in case it launched a piece of dirt when the bead seated. I also agree with the other commenters on the use of a locking tire chuck if you have one.
Be safe out there with compressed air, and keep the great content coming.
Extremely rare for a tire to break the bead unless driven flat, messick should know better. Starter fluid not encouraged but highly effective. The cheetah inflator is much faster, they are so inexpensive now (chinese), should be part of every tool arsenal. To the safety police: KMA
Got to be a good story about what happened to that grill guard and hood.
It's a secondhand tractor, there might be, but I don't know it.
This was the first method I thought to seal a bead on a lawn tractor tire, but it's still a 1/2" away. Will update if I find another suggestion that works.
Soap up the tire,it helps it conform to the rim, take out the valve core,it let's a higher volume of air into the tire,be ready to put it back in once the tire seats.
Starting fluid works great, make sure the wheel is on the tractor
Put some fluid in the tire let it vaporize run some fluid outside the tire make a trail on the ground away from the tire,lite the trail,be ready to air the tire as soon as the tire expands!!!
I do that all the time but I do try to not let them get that way. Have been guilty of using starter fluid.
Worked like a dream! Thanks for the tip!
Do they make a bolt together front wheel for tractors to make DIY easier?
I always try that strap method First, but at times I have had to do the wd40 method...
I have used that method. Like it.
Great idea. I never would have thought to try that!
I just had this happen 5 days ago. I removed the valve core and pushed the air hose (no air chuck in it) over the valve stem. It injected enough air volume to reseat the beads. I put the valve core back in and aired it up.
I’ve put starter fluid on them and lit them.
Few tips:
- Keep the garden hose handy just in case.
- Take the valve stem out first.
- I’d never do it on a tire still attached to the unit.
- Only use it as a last option.
99% of tires I’ve ever worked with didn’t need the “explosive” technique. People over do it because they just like playing with fire.
First wear safety glasses, clean the bead with a damp cloth with a product like glass clean, take the valve core out, put the air filler on, and hit the tire face until it beads. And put the valve core back in when done
Most times hitting the tire with a sledge isnt needed as the missing core lets in enough air
Very cool tip. Now I have to find a video of the explosion method.
Can you do a video on the proper tire pressure gauge regarding ballast tractor tires. Love your videos, thank you.
What did you do to the grill guard ? I am not surprised, those guards are pathetic, the one on my 6060 is always shaking.
When mounting trailer tires at my house on the floor. I’ve had good luck pulling the valve core and using a blow gun to to inflate the tire to set beads. You can get a lot of air shot in there pretty fast like an actual tire machine. Get that first real fast blast of air in the tire for rapid expansion.
I do believe you mean you remove the valve stem core, the the valve stem! Removal of the valve stem would require breaking the bead seal to replace the valve stem, whereas the core removal just requires a tool design for that purpose!
Yep you caught my mistake. Valve core is what I meant.
How did you un-bead the tire?
it was flat and i did not notice. Drove it off the rim.
so the one thing that I've done on my Kubota that I have never regretted is having tubes installed in all the tires...... for those that don't know, the R4 tires don't come with tubes- my dealer told me it was because they are an industrial tire and they can be plugged if you get a hole in a tire. but if you're Kubota came with R1's then they supposedly came with tubes from the factory as they're more of a farming tire. the design of the Kubota rim doesn't have a "bead retention ring" such as found in automotive rims, and this makes it so that if they get a little low on air the tire has a much easier time coming off the Kubota rim than if it had been formed with a decent bead retention ring built into the rim. I found this out, much like Neil did, when i had a tire come off the rim. after dealing with that, all the tires got tubes and I haven't had a problem since. EDIT: for what it's worth, i have a MX series Kubota that came equipped with large R4 skidsteer sized tires on the front, i tried the ratchet strap method, even went and got some of my biggest cargo tie down straps and i couldn't get the beads to flex out to seal to re-air up- another reason i went with tubes.
Great video. Always great info. Thanks. I’m a new LX owner and I would like to know more about diesel fuel additives. Especially storage and winter. Have you done videos on that topic? Thanks
Try jacking it up like you did, but take the core out of the valve stem and pull the tire with your hand to close off little leaks while you’ve got the air going to it.
Your little compressor may not be able to put enough air through the hose to blow the tire up, but most with a 10 or 20 gallon tank have enough air reserve in them to easily inflate a tire with the valve core removed. Once you get 15 or 20 PSI in the tire stop putting air in and put the valve core back in before you lose too much air and it comes back off the rim.
Where was this video a couple of years ago when I needed it?! 🤣 But the easiest way, for me, is take the wheel off, take it to the dealer, let them fix it, and then put it back on the tractor. 🤣🤣🤣
Sometime this past summer
I Put a 14 ply skid steer tire on our
Case 85XT By hand rear tire
Is there more to the story?
@@jimputnam2044 yes I did it in 20 minutes
@@jimputnam2044 I was rather quite pleased with myself
Geez Neil why didn't ya just call AAA LOL. Your method works pretty well, I've done that on lawn/garden tractor tires several times. I pull the shrader valve out of the valve stem prior to trying to reseat the bead though, as it gives full air flow through the valve stem...the shrader valve is pretty restricting when it comes to trying to seat a tire bead...that's why tire shops do this as well.
This shows you don't need fancy tire shop stuff to fix a tire that's come off the bead...happens quite often on farm equipment.
Very simple and educational. Big thx
I’d put soapy water on the bead . I have used just a piece of rope a put it around the tire and tie it. Put a bar in and twist until it seals . Tire guys use either Allot.. sometime you can get it to seat by just playing with it
On some tires the only thing that works is starting fluid, but I remove the valve before doing any method, it slows down the air volume too much.
I had a air chuck that clips on and stays. Then pulled on tire. Filled fairly quickly.
I have the same situation except mine is the big rear wheel. What should I do?
If you don't have a fancy ratchet strap, you can do this with a simple piece of rope. Tie the rope loosely around the tire, put a stick, pipe or breaker bar under the rope and twist it like a tourniquet to put the pressure on the tire an push the bead out.
Thanks worked like a charm!!
I saw an inflated strap used in a tire shop before. Similar idea. Inflation tanks have probably replaced. I know a guy that lost the tip of his thumb when the bead popped on.
Good way of checking for leaks is to fill a weed sprayer with soap water and spray the whole tire with it and look for bubbles.
Go heavy on the dish soap.
As always, great video, very informative!
Assuming that's a 25x8.5-14 tire, would u happen to know what size inner tube fits ? That would be the only way i can still use my tire without replacement and the tires aren't cheap. Thanks
You can do that, but call us in a price for a new tire. It's hardly worth the time and effort to do that. 8772603528
Thanks- this will come in handy as some point.
This would be great for wheelbarrow tires.
Dam good demo - this will happen to me sooner than later but at least i know what to attempt- thanks
I’m guessing that is out of your rental fleet. If that’s the case just “send it” down the road as is and blame it on the last renter. 😉
Sure beats taking the wheel off to get the tire seated with a dump valve bead seating tank. BTW any updates on Kubota getting FEL out to dealers yet?
Use a heavy enough ratchet strap. I aired up a UTV tire and the ratchet missed my head by about 4 inches when the strap failed. Life lessons.
Thats because you put too much air in it .LOL
Tire repair?
Call Messicks for field service!!!
Duh 😉
Total pain to do, thanks for the instructions 😁😁😁🧿🧿🧿🧡🧡🧡🚜❤️
Only thing I could add would be to clean/ inspect the bead of the wheel and tire the best you can to prevent future slow leaking problems.
That and investigate / plug whatever caused the air loss to begin with to hopefully fix the actual cause of the problem instead of just addressing the symptom. Soapy water works good for mounting lube, compared to going in dry, makes a world of difference. The higher the temperature of the assembly the better, left inside a heated shop to thaw out overnight when it’s winter can make what was an impossible mount happen like butter.
Overall I found the “cheetah” air tanks are the most reliable, safest and least amount of labor. Most the shops I worked at had scary looking home made ones, I ordered a regular one online and after using it I’d say it was far to expensive and don’t recommend doing that because it’s really just a shiny copy of those home made ones that had a pipe hammered into the shape of a duck bill.
If this is a common problem you or your shop deal with I suggest making your own cheetah tank.
But definitely try to clean the bead and plug the hole or whatever to save a future headache.
Of course when it’s a loaner or rental, reality boys, strap it together, blow some air in it and send it home. It’s only your problem as long as it’s yours.
We don't normally see you do anything mechanical, doing what you did with that tire wasn't fully correct, so I expect that. Narrating your videos is your strongest suit. :) lol
Spray or pore water at the top of wheel at the bead of the tire on both sides, this will act as a lubricant and help the tire slip back into position and maybe brake-down some of the old tire sealant. Of course, if you have tire sealing lubricant that's even better, as it will seal the tire to the wheel..
That front guard all bent up… which is cool. My entire front grill is all messed up as well
How do I relieve hydraulic pressure before removing lines?
Move the lever around that controls whatever is keeping pressure on the lines.
Nice tip, thanks.