Try adding a soapy solution of water, to allow the tire "set" correctly. The soap and rubber combination allows the side wall to 'slip' into the bead easier.
That was a good tip for new tractor owners Neil. However, the dry dusty seal you have on the bead of that tire may still leak air slowly. Before you start to fill the tire if you spray the bead with soapy water and give it a wipe you can all but eliminate that slow leak from happening. Before there were ratchet straps we used to use chain and a pry bar stuck through the links to put around the center of the tire and then twist the chain with the pry bar to tighten the chain around the tire and get the beads to spread and meet both sides of the rim.
I used a ratchet strap on a small tire on a dump cart. I guess I put just a little too much air in the tire because when I went to release the strap, the buckle hit my knuckles hard enough to make them sore for days. I'm having an L2502 delivered this week! Sorry, Texas resident and you're too far away. I love your videos! I'm learning so much!
I recently subscribed to your channel. I just paid $80,000.00 cash on a Kubota L3560 tractor with a cab. With the price came a snowblower, mid-range loader bucket, box blade, snowblower, and a log grapple plus $2000.00 for delivery. I am 58 years old and thought that hydraulics would compensate for my older age and it has! I live in Alaska where we have had a record snowfall of 120 inches! I have been shoveling all my roofs off so the roofs would not collapse under the weight of the snow. My neighbor's garage roof and greenhouse roof have collapsed under the 10 plus feet of snow that we have received. Your U Tube channel is awesome and very informative, keep up the good work! I really need your expertise to maintain my tractor! I am an 82nd Airbourne ranger combat veteran that loves my country but not so much my representatives! God bless my friend and stay safe with the madman Putin on the rampage! BUY SOME IODINE TABLETS! FOR RADIATION! Raymond Peterson.
I may be the only person that you find that has iodine tablets in my kitchen. I live only a couple miles from Three Mile Island, they provide them to us.
I've done similar -- but not (yet) with my BX25D! Three "tips" include: 1. Take a damp (water) rag and WIPE both the inner side of rim and outside of tire. If there's crud on either, it will (again) leak shortly after your "fix" 2/ Complementary to above, I smear Dawn or similar dish-washing detergent about entire rim before seal/air input, too. This insures a better seal and does not hurt rubber. 3/ Rather than purchase of/use of the ratchet strap, i HIGHLY recommend simply tying a length of rope into a lop but a few inches in diameter larger than the off-rim tire. Insert a piece of wood dowel, tree branch, or whatever you may have at hand and start twisting it. Generally, parallel with ground underneath the tire/wheel is required. Then, when it appears squnched enough (technical term) to accept air, just step on branch/dowel end to hold it sealed while inflating. Upon inflation, you then can safely un-wind your branch/dowel. No worries/chance of snap from the ratchet strap. My suggestions.... george in Potsda, New York
How often should a tire come off the rim? Have a Kioti CK3510SE with only 130 hrs. Had a back tire come off the rim and rimguard run all over my lawn. This was at around 80 hours. The about at 110 hours a front tire came off the rim. I am spot on with servicing, greesing, torques, air as well as garaged when not in use. There's a long list of what's gone wrong with this tractor which led to 5 trips back to the dealer. Frustrated Kioti owner. Thank you for sharing the tip.
Appears majority of best practices have been listed - one more suggestion, once tire is seated, inflate to at least 2x your preferred running pressure, then reduce as appropriate. Why you may ask. This allows the bead to fully seat to the wheel, preventing tire/wheel slip, deflation due to poorly seating and ensures fully seated around the entire wheel.
Sometimes after you wipe down the bead you can hook your air hose on with air flowing and turn the tire slowly it will just enough for the bead to make contact and inflate not always but sometimes. If it does not then my go to is the strap. Always great information and tips from Neal . Keep up the great vedios
So appreciate this method as it was a little challenging at first but with soap and water and a little pulling, we got the tire inflated on my lawn tractor. Thank you
Great video as always. Just one tip. While you’re all set up check and fill all tires. It could have been a tire pressure issue that caused the first tire to come off the rim.
That's how I've done it for years. Used to do trailer work (many moons ago) and the tires we got were stacked in piles for extended periods and crushed flat. The tie down trick works even when a "burp tank" won't. I've occasionally used the ether and toss a kitchen match from as far away as possible, have someone ready with the hose if you choose to try this technique, and be careful. I've never personally heard of someone getting hurt with the method, or catching their equipment on fire, but the risk is sure there. I highly recommend the tie down method in nearly all cases. Less dramatic, and at my stage in life, that's fine with me. Minimum drama here, thank you. Thanks for another real world video.
I used this method, and lost the bead several times in a row. I finally learned about "bead sealant" which I used. I have not lost the bead since. I wish someone had told me sooner about bead sealant: fairly cheap and available from most auto parts dealers.
Yeh the starter fluid/WD-40 trick can backfire (pun intended). My wife met your sister-in-law Kim at a party in San Antonio this week. She said she was a "hoot and 1/2".
Had a flat on my bx23s no where near my house and shop. I didn't have a ratchet strap. I did have a little 12 volt compressor. Since the front end loader was holding the tire less front end up. I used the down rigger on the backhoe as a sort of press to squeeze it down just enough to get the bead to seat. It did the job. You have to get creative with what you have available.
This just worked for me! thanks so much for posting. Did this for rear tire on Kabota B3030. Also thanks below for the suggestion of adding soapy water!
everything you said, but with a couple of additions. usually when the tire comes off the bead, there's all sorts of mud and dirt jammed in there. It's a good idea to get a wet soapy rag/brush/sponge/whatever, and clean the tire and the bead surface. the soap also helps the bead seal faster and smoother (plus the soap bubbles will tell you if you've got a leak)
This also works with rope and a stick. I've done it. Just tie the rope around the tire and the stick and twist the stick until you get pressure on the tire. Love these fixes.
Been there, done that - works very well, but WATCH OUT for the spinning ratchet wheel when you release the strap tension, that wheel will spin like a circular saw blade (I can show you the scars).
Very useful tip. Last time mine came off the bead I just took it off and to a local tire shop to reset it. However, I could have saved $15 and the time driving if I had known about this.
Take the schrader valve out of the valve stem to get more air flow. Also get a locking tire chuck so your hands are not right next to the tire in case something goes wrong.
One potential issue with this method is some air chucks are spring loaded and require the core in place to release the spring in the chuck for air to flow.
It worked for me after I added some dish soap and kept trying to get enough air between the wheel and tire. The tire popped right in. Then I removed the strap and added air to 30 psi. Thank you.
I had to use that same method on a walk behind snowblower. It was New & not yet used sitting up at the cabin. 🤷♂️ I was very glad I had been introduced to that method years prior, but never needed till then.
This was the first method I thought to seal a bead on a lawn tractor tire, but it's still a 1/2" away. Will update if I find another suggestion that works.
Dude.....your a rental companies nightmare. Flat tie, bent grill guard, and dented hood. Nothing parties like a rental! All kidding aside, good info on the tire fix Neil.
I've done basically the same thing except i didn't have a ratchet strap available. I simply used a chain connected with a bit of slack to it. Then put a bar between the chain and the tire then twisted the chain with the bar. Accomplishes the exact same thing. Just an option in case folks can't find a ratchet strap. I happen to carry a length of chain on my tractor at all times anyway.
I would have tried to wipe the rim first, to get off any dirt that got in. Haven't had to do this with my Kubota... but I had a wheelbarrow that EVERY spring... Finally bought tire sealant and (hopefully, seem to have) solved that slow leak issue.
I have that problem with every small pneumatic tire. I just go to Harbor Freight and replace them with the flat free tires as needed. Much less hassle.
Tore the valve stem out of my right front wheel doing tornado cleanup in Mayfield Kentucky on Wednesday. In that situation, this would not work (no valve stem) but this is a great hack, great job, Neal. Thanks again to Smith's Tire Service and Repair for getting me back in operation so quickly. They also replaced a trailer tire that blew on my way into town.
Hey Neil. Stopped by at both locations to say hello. The new place is huge. Nice! Sorry we missed you. I just bought a new LX3310HSTC from Vince at Murphy's. Stop by to see Cummins and Bricker. Working to get a Baumalight prototype MS348 for the loader with a power pack summer 2022. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for videos. Great information
I had that problem on L3400 too many times to count. Always came back to a leak in the metal valve stems. Ended up buying tubes about 5 years ago, and haven't had that problem since.
Thanks for the trick. I had the same problem tire flat one morning. I inflated the tire but the loss of air persisted. The cause was dirt and tiny rocks that was caught on the bead. Had to take the tire to the tire shop where they removed the tire from the rim. They cleaned the rim and the tire bead, reassembled the tire/wheel, put sealant on the bead and inflated the tire. The cause of the problem was slightly under inflated tires moving a heavy loads turning in sharp circles.
Had a Kubota M59 get a complete flat while lifting a pallet on a job last week. Luckily I had a ratchet strap in the truck, worked like a charm, even with a tiny job site compressor
Soap up the tire,it helps it conform to the rim, take out the valve core,it let's a higher volume of air into the tire,be ready to put it back in once the tire seats. Starting fluid works great, make sure the wheel is on the tractor Put some fluid in the tire let it vaporize run some fluid outside the tire make a trail on the ground away from the tire,lite the trail,be ready to air the tire as soon as the tire expands!!!
This happens to me all the time when clearing brush. It never fails that I'll bust off a valve stem and by the time I notice it the tire is off the rim. I use a come-a-long. The cable squeezes the tire a little better and the longer handle gives you more leverage.
With the dust and dirt on that tire, I would have put my glasses on first, in case it launched a piece of dirt when the bead seated. I also agree with the other commenters on the use of a locking tire chuck if you have one. Be safe out there with compressed air, and keep the great content coming.
Where was this video a couple of years ago when I needed it?! 🤣 But the easiest way, for me, is take the wheel off, take it to the dealer, let them fix it, and then put it back on the tractor. 🤣🤣🤣
I’ve put starter fluid on them and lit them. Few tips: - Keep the garden hose handy just in case. - Take the valve stem out first. - I’d never do it on a tire still attached to the unit. - Only use it as a last option. 99% of tires I’ve ever worked with didn’t need the “explosive” technique. People over do it because they just like playing with fire.
I just had this happen 5 days ago. I removed the valve core and pushed the air hose (no air chuck in it) over the valve stem. It injected enough air volume to reseat the beads. I put the valve core back in and aired it up.
Great video. Always great info. Thanks. I’m a new LX owner and I would like to know more about diesel fuel additives. Especially storage and winter. Have you done videos on that topic? Thanks
Geez Neil why didn't ya just call AAA LOL. Your method works pretty well, I've done that on lawn/garden tractor tires several times. I pull the shrader valve out of the valve stem prior to trying to reseat the bead though, as it gives full air flow through the valve stem...the shrader valve is pretty restricting when it comes to trying to seat a tire bead...that's why tire shops do this as well. This shows you don't need fancy tire shop stuff to fix a tire that's come off the bead...happens quite often on farm equipment.
Try jacking it up like you did, but take the core out of the valve stem and pull the tire with your hand to close off little leaks while you’ve got the air going to it. Your little compressor may not be able to put enough air through the hose to blow the tire up, but most with a 10 or 20 gallon tank have enough air reserve in them to easily inflate a tire with the valve core removed. Once you get 15 or 20 PSI in the tire stop putting air in and put the valve core back in before you lose too much air and it comes back off the rim.
I saw an inflated strap used in a tire shop before. Similar idea. Inflation tanks have probably replaced. I know a guy that lost the tip of his thumb when the bead popped on.
I’d put soapy water on the bead . I have used just a piece of rope a put it around the tire and tie it. Put a bar in and twist until it seals . Tire guys use either Allot.. sometime you can get it to seat by just playing with it
Shoot...........I was expecting a ether fireball. I worked at a tire shop years ago, they had a set of big rubber donuts that ranged from 12" to 18" rim sizes, you would soap them up and roll them on the rim, they took up the gap, and you could start air and as the tire inflated it would push them off the rim. They worked slick, used them on tire machines, but they would have worked on situations like this too. I would love to have a set for my tire machine instead of the ratchet strap treatment, but can't find them. Maybe they were a safety hazard and that ended them?
Good way of checking for leaks is to fill a weed sprayer with soap water and spray the whole tire with it and look for bubbles. Go heavy on the dish soap.
Only thing I could add would be to clean/ inspect the bead of the wheel and tire the best you can to prevent future slow leaking problems. That and investigate / plug whatever caused the air loss to begin with to hopefully fix the actual cause of the problem instead of just addressing the symptom. Soapy water works good for mounting lube, compared to going in dry, makes a world of difference. The higher the temperature of the assembly the better, left inside a heated shop to thaw out overnight when it’s winter can make what was an impossible mount happen like butter. Overall I found the “cheetah” air tanks are the most reliable, safest and least amount of labor. Most the shops I worked at had scary looking home made ones, I ordered a regular one online and after using it I’d say it was far to expensive and don’t recommend doing that because it’s really just a shiny copy of those home made ones that had a pipe hammered into the shape of a duck bill. If this is a common problem you or your shop deal with I suggest making your own cheetah tank. But definitely try to clean the bead and plug the hole or whatever to save a future headache. Of course when it’s a loaner or rental, reality boys, strap it together, blow some air in it and send it home. It’s only your problem as long as it’s yours.
Extremely rare for a tire to break the bead unless driven flat, messick should know better. Starter fluid not encouraged but highly effective. The cheetah inflator is much faster, they are so inexpensive now (chinese), should be part of every tool arsenal. To the safety police: KMA
When mounting trailer tires at my house on the floor. I’ve had good luck pulling the valve core and using a blow gun to to inflate the tire to set beads. You can get a lot of air shot in there pretty fast like an actual tire machine. Get that first real fast blast of air in the tire for rapid expansion.
I do believe you mean you remove the valve stem core, the the valve stem! Removal of the valve stem would require breaking the bead seal to replace the valve stem, whereas the core removal just requires a tool design for that purpose!
First wear safety glasses, clean the bead with a damp cloth with a product like glass clean, take the valve core out, put the air filler on, and hit the tire face until it beads. And put the valve core back in when done
Try adding a soapy solution of water, to allow the tire "set" correctly. The soap and rubber combination allows the side wall to 'slip' into the bead easier.
thanks Neil for the suggestion
That was a good tip for new tractor owners Neil. However, the dry dusty seal you have on the bead of that tire may still leak air slowly. Before you start to fill the tire if you spray the bead with soapy water and give it a wipe you can all but eliminate that slow leak from happening. Before there were ratchet straps we used to use chain and a pry bar stuck through the links to put around the center of the tire and then twist the chain with the pry bar to tighten the chain around the tire and get the beads to spread and meet both sides of the rim.
I used a ratchet strap on a small tire on a dump cart. I guess I put just a little too much air in the tire because when I went to release the strap, the buckle hit my knuckles hard enough to make them sore for days. I'm having an L2502 delivered this week! Sorry, Texas resident and you're too far away. I love your videos! I'm learning so much!
I recently subscribed to your channel. I just paid $80,000.00 cash on a Kubota L3560 tractor with a cab. With the price came a snowblower, mid-range loader bucket, box blade, snowblower, and a log grapple plus $2000.00 for delivery. I am 58 years old and thought that hydraulics would compensate for my older age and it has! I live in Alaska where we have had a record snowfall of 120 inches! I have been shoveling all my roofs off so the roofs would not collapse under the weight of the snow. My neighbor's garage roof and greenhouse roof have collapsed under the 10 plus feet of snow that we have received. Your U Tube channel is awesome and very informative, keep up the good work! I really need your expertise to maintain my tractor! I am an 82nd Airbourne ranger combat veteran that loves my country but not so much my representatives! God bless my friend and stay safe with the madman Putin on the rampage! BUY SOME IODINE TABLETS! FOR RADIATION!
Raymond Peterson.
I may be the only person that you find that has iodine tablets in my kitchen. I live only a couple miles from Three Mile Island, they provide them to us.
I have used this method several times on smaller tires on zero turn, works great and a lot safer than other methods
I've done similar -- but not (yet) with my BX25D! Three "tips" include:
1. Take a damp (water) rag and WIPE both the inner side of rim and outside of tire. If there's crud on either, it will (again) leak shortly after your "fix"
2/ Complementary to above, I smear Dawn or similar dish-washing detergent about entire rim before seal/air input, too. This insures a better seal and does not hurt rubber.
3/ Rather than purchase of/use of the ratchet strap, i HIGHLY recommend simply tying a length of rope into a lop but a few inches in diameter larger than the off-rim tire. Insert a piece of wood dowel, tree branch, or whatever you may have at hand and start twisting it. Generally, parallel with ground underneath the tire/wheel is required. Then, when it appears squnched enough (technical term) to accept air, just step on branch/dowel end to hold it sealed while inflating. Upon inflation, you then can safely un-wind your branch/dowel. No worries/chance of snap from the ratchet strap.
My suggestions....
george in Potsda, New York
How often should a tire come off the rim? Have a Kioti CK3510SE with only 130 hrs. Had a back tire come off the rim and rimguard run all over my lawn. This was at around 80 hours. The about at 110 hours a front tire came off the rim. I am spot on with servicing, greesing, torques, air as well as garaged when not in use. There's a long list of what's gone wrong with this tractor which led to 5 trips back to the dealer. Frustrated Kioti owner. Thank you for sharing the tip.
💥 That’s exactly what I do. Now to find that pesky leak and plug it.
*Keep on tractoring!*
Appears majority of best practices have been listed - one more suggestion, once tire is seated, inflate to at least 2x your preferred running pressure, then reduce as appropriate. Why you may ask. This allows the bead to fully seat to the wheel, preventing tire/wheel slip, deflation due to poorly seating and ensures fully seated around the entire wheel.
Sometimes after you wipe down the bead you can hook your air hose on with air flowing and turn the tire slowly it will just enough for the bead to make contact and inflate not always but sometimes. If it does not then my go to is the strap. Always great information and tips from Neal . Keep up the great vedios
So appreciate this method as it was a little challenging at first but with soap and water and a little pulling, we got the tire inflated on my lawn tractor. Thank you
Great video as always. Just one tip. While you’re all set up check and fill all tires. It could have been a tire pressure issue that caused the first tire to come off the rim.
That's how I've done it for years. Used to do trailer work (many moons ago) and the tires we got were stacked in piles for extended periods and crushed flat. The tie down trick works even when a "burp tank" won't. I've occasionally used the ether and toss a kitchen match from as far away as possible, have someone ready with the hose if you choose to try this technique, and be careful. I've never personally heard of someone getting hurt with the method, or catching their equipment on fire, but the risk is sure there. I highly recommend the tie down method in nearly all cases. Less dramatic, and at my stage in life, that's fine with me. Minimum drama here, thank you.
Thanks for another real world video.
I used this method, and lost the bead several times in a row. I finally learned about "bead sealant" which I used. I have not lost the bead since. I wish someone had told me sooner about bead sealant: fairly cheap and available from most auto parts dealers.
If one bead is still on. I use a locking air chuck. Hook up to tire with shop air and pull tire toward the side that is unseated.
I have used this method of seating tires back on the rim for years. Has worked every time for me
Yeh the starter fluid/WD-40 trick can backfire (pun intended).
My wife met your sister-in-law Kim at a party in San Antonio this week. She said she was a "hoot and 1/2".
That grille guard and hood look sweet! Is that a custom design?
Had a flat on my bx23s no where near my house and shop. I didn't have a ratchet strap. I did have a little 12 volt compressor. Since the front end loader was holding the tire less front end up. I used the down rigger on the backhoe as a sort of press to squeeze it down just enough to get the bead to seat. It did the job. You have to get creative with what you have available.
This just worked for me! thanks so much for posting. Did this for rear tire on Kabota B3030. Also thanks below for the suggestion of adding soapy water!
Glad it helped!
everything you said, but with a couple of additions. usually when the tire comes off the bead, there's all sorts of mud and dirt jammed in there. It's a good idea to get a wet soapy rag/brush/sponge/whatever, and clean the tire and the bead surface. the soap also helps the bead seal faster and smoother (plus the soap bubbles will tell you if you've got a leak)
A bottle of soapy water goes a long way to help the bead to seal and seat up as well. The strap method has always been my go to in the field.
This also works with rope and a stick. I've done it. Just tie the rope around the tire and the stick and twist the stick until you get pressure on the tire. Love these fixes.
I've done that I've also used grease they both work
Very cool tip. Now I have to find a video of the explosion method.
Thanks!!!!! My tire went flat during our snow storm this weekend. Will give this a try this evening.
Been there, done that - works very well, but WATCH OUT for the spinning ratchet wheel when you release the strap tension, that wheel will spin like a circular saw blade (I can show you the scars).
Very useful tip. Last time mine came off the bead I just took it off and to a local tire shop to reset it. However, I could have saved $15 and the time driving if I had known about this.
Take the schrader valve out of the valve stem to get more air flow. Also get a locking tire chuck so your hands are not right next to the tire in case something goes wrong.
One potential issue with this method is some air chucks are spring loaded and require the core in place to release the spring in the chuck for air to flow.
@@coypatton3160 use the end of a hose! Don't need that valve to are a tire you need it to keep it in !
Good advice! That's what the I find works for me.
REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR VIDEOS, SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE SOMETHING BEFORE.
It worked for me after I added some dish soap and kept trying to get enough air between the wheel and tire. The tire popped right in. Then I removed the strap and added air to 30 psi. Thank you.
I had to use that same method on a walk behind snowblower. It was New & not yet used sitting up at the cabin. 🤷♂️ I was very glad I had been introduced to that method years prior, but never needed till then.
Good job with the tire change
I have used that method. Like it.
Worked like a charm. Thanks!
Worked like a dream. Saved my morning. Thank you.
This was the first method I thought to seal a bead on a lawn tractor tire, but it's still a 1/2" away. Will update if I find another suggestion that works.
I used this method for my little trailer tires most tire shops won't do them.
Dude.....your a rental companies nightmare. Flat tie, bent grill guard, and dented hood. Nothing parties like a rental! All kidding aside, good info on the tire fix Neil.
Thankyou for this video my tyre has just come off and although I haven't got it back on yet I feel more confident that I can get it on thankyou
I've done basically the same thing except i didn't have a ratchet strap available. I simply used a chain connected with a bit of slack to it. Then put a bar between the chain and the tire then twisted the chain with the bar. Accomplishes the exact same thing. Just an option in case folks can't find a ratchet strap. I happen to carry a length of chain on my tractor at all times anyway.
Thank you for the video
Thanks worked like a charm!!
I would have tried to wipe the rim first, to get off any dirt that got in. Haven't had to do this with my Kubota... but I had a wheelbarrow that EVERY spring... Finally bought tire sealant and (hopefully, seem to have) solved that slow leak issue.
I have that problem with every small pneumatic tire. I just go to Harbor Freight and replace them with the flat free tires as needed. Much less hassle.
Tore the valve stem out of my right front wheel doing tornado cleanup in Mayfield Kentucky on Wednesday. In that situation, this would not work (no valve stem) but this is a great hack, great job, Neal. Thanks again to Smith's Tire Service and Repair for getting me back in operation so quickly. They also replaced a trailer tire that blew on my way into town.
Hey Neil. Stopped by at both locations to say hello. The new place is huge. Nice! Sorry we missed you. I just bought a new LX3310HSTC from Vince at Murphy's. Stop by to see Cummins and Bricker. Working to get a Baumalight prototype MS348 for the loader with a power pack summer 2022. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Thanks for videos. Great information
I had that problem on L3400 too many times to count. Always came back to a leak in the metal valve stems. Ended up buying tubes about 5 years ago, and haven't had that problem since.
Thanks for the trick. I had the same problem tire flat one morning. I inflated the tire but the loss of air persisted. The cause was dirt and tiny rocks that was caught on the bead. Had to take the tire to the tire shop where they removed the tire from the rim. They cleaned the rim and the tire bead, reassembled the tire/wheel, put sealant on the bead and inflated the tire. The cause of the problem was slightly under inflated tires moving a heavy loads turning in sharp circles.
Great tip, never thought about doing it that way.
Had a Kubota M59 get a complete flat while lifting a pallet on a job last week. Luckily I had a ratchet strap in the truck, worked like a charm, even with a tiny job site compressor
Soap up the tire,it helps it conform to the rim, take out the valve core,it let's a higher volume of air into the tire,be ready to put it back in once the tire seats.
Starting fluid works great, make sure the wheel is on the tractor
Put some fluid in the tire let it vaporize run some fluid outside the tire make a trail on the ground away from the tire,lite the trail,be ready to air the tire as soon as the tire expands!!!
Use a cheetah type bead seater and a Milton locking chuck for continuous air flow. Works every time with out the danger.
Worked like a dream! Thanks for the tip!
Kubota should include valve protectors on all of the front tires. I have ripped the valve off twice working in mud and rocks on L3800.
👍🏼 Fully agree! 😎✌🏼
My B model has them.
@@JR-es5zl yeah I've seen them on some of the models that's why I am aware that there's no excuse for for them not to be on every single rim
This happens to me all the time when clearing brush. It never fails that I'll bust off a valve stem and by the time I notice it the tire is off the rim. I use a come-a-long. The cable squeezes the tire a little better and the longer handle gives you more leverage.
Nice tip, thanks.
That front guard all bent up… which is cool. My entire front grill is all messed up as well
Been there and done that Neil. I've heard of using eather or starting fluid but, as you said extremely dangerous.
good tip, thank you
Great idea. I never would have thought to try that!
With the dust and dirt on that tire, I would have put my glasses on first, in case it launched a piece of dirt when the bead seated. I also agree with the other commenters on the use of a locking tire chuck if you have one.
Be safe out there with compressed air, and keep the great content coming.
Very simple and educational. Big thx
I’m guessing that is out of your rental fleet. If that’s the case just “send it” down the road as is and blame it on the last renter. 😉
Total pain to do, thanks for the instructions 😁😁😁🧿🧿🧿🧡🧡🧡🚜❤️
@1:13 -- What happened to the front of that tractor? It looks like something fell on the hood and the front grill protector?
Where was this video a couple of years ago when I needed it?! 🤣 But the easiest way, for me, is take the wheel off, take it to the dealer, let them fix it, and then put it back on the tractor. 🤣🤣🤣
What did you do to the grill guard ? I am not surprised, those guards are pathetic, the one on my 6060 is always shaking.
Thanks- this will come in handy as some point.
This would be great for wheelbarrow tires.
I’ve put starter fluid on them and lit them.
Few tips:
- Keep the garden hose handy just in case.
- Take the valve stem out first.
- I’d never do it on a tire still attached to the unit.
- Only use it as a last option.
99% of tires I’ve ever worked with didn’t need the “explosive” technique. People over do it because they just like playing with fire.
I do that all the time but I do try to not let them get that way. Have been guilty of using starter fluid.
That's exactly the way I do it 👍 it's a whole lot safer that way 👍🚜😎
I just had this happen 5 days ago. I removed the valve core and pushed the air hose (no air chuck in it) over the valve stem. It injected enough air volume to reseat the beads. I put the valve core back in and aired it up.
Can you do a video on the proper tire pressure gauge regarding ballast tractor tires. Love your videos, thank you.
Great video. Always great info. Thanks. I’m a new LX owner and I would like to know more about diesel fuel additives. Especially storage and winter. Have you done videos on that topic? Thanks
Geez Neil why didn't ya just call AAA LOL. Your method works pretty well, I've done that on lawn/garden tractor tires several times. I pull the shrader valve out of the valve stem prior to trying to reseat the bead though, as it gives full air flow through the valve stem...the shrader valve is pretty restricting when it comes to trying to seat a tire bead...that's why tire shops do this as well.
This shows you don't need fancy tire shop stuff to fix a tire that's come off the bead...happens quite often on farm equipment.
As always, great video, very informative!
1 can of either and 1 bic lighter!, works every time for me!.
Hair spray, wd40, starter fluid (either), brake cleaner .. the list goes on
On some tires the only thing that works is starting fluid, but I remove the valve before doing any method, it slows down the air volume too much.
Got to be a good story about what happened to that grill guard and hood.
It's a secondhand tractor, there might be, but I don't know it.
Try jacking it up like you did, but take the core out of the valve stem and pull the tire with your hand to close off little leaks while you’ve got the air going to it.
Your little compressor may not be able to put enough air through the hose to blow the tire up, but most with a 10 or 20 gallon tank have enough air reserve in them to easily inflate a tire with the valve core removed. Once you get 15 or 20 PSI in the tire stop putting air in and put the valve core back in before you lose too much air and it comes back off the rim.
I saw an inflated strap used in a tire shop before. Similar idea. Inflation tanks have probably replaced. I know a guy that lost the tip of his thumb when the bead popped on.
Sometime this past summer
I Put a 14 ply skid steer tire on our
Case 85XT By hand rear tire
Is there more to the story?
@@jimputnam2044 yes I did it in 20 minutes
@@jimputnam2044 I was rather quite pleased with myself
I've been doing that forever works great
Dam good demo - this will happen to me sooner than later but at least i know what to attempt- thanks
Do they make a bolt together front wheel for tractors to make DIY easier?
Use a heavy enough ratchet strap. I aired up a UTV tire and the ratchet missed my head by about 4 inches when the strap failed. Life lessons.
Thats because you put too much air in it .LOL
I’d put soapy water on the bead . I have used just a piece of rope a put it around the tire and tie it. Put a bar in and twist until it seals . Tire guys use either Allot.. sometime you can get it to seat by just playing with it
Cool Idea. Thanks.
Shoot...........I was expecting a ether fireball. I worked at a tire shop years ago, they had a set of big rubber donuts that ranged from 12" to 18" rim sizes, you would soap them up and roll them on the rim, they took up the gap, and you could start air and as the tire inflated it would push them off the rim. They worked slick, used them on tire machines, but they would have worked on situations like this too. I would love to have a set for my tire machine instead of the ratchet strap treatment, but can't find them. Maybe they were a safety hazard and that ended them?
Good way of checking for leaks is to fill a weed sprayer with soap water and spray the whole tire with it and look for bubbles.
Go heavy on the dish soap.
I always try that strap method First, but at times I have had to do the wd40 method...
it works well i have used it many times.
Only thing I could add would be to clean/ inspect the bead of the wheel and tire the best you can to prevent future slow leaking problems.
That and investigate / plug whatever caused the air loss to begin with to hopefully fix the actual cause of the problem instead of just addressing the symptom. Soapy water works good for mounting lube, compared to going in dry, makes a world of difference. The higher the temperature of the assembly the better, left inside a heated shop to thaw out overnight when it’s winter can make what was an impossible mount happen like butter.
Overall I found the “cheetah” air tanks are the most reliable, safest and least amount of labor. Most the shops I worked at had scary looking home made ones, I ordered a regular one online and after using it I’d say it was far to expensive and don’t recommend doing that because it’s really just a shiny copy of those home made ones that had a pipe hammered into the shape of a duck bill.
If this is a common problem you or your shop deal with I suggest making your own cheetah tank.
But definitely try to clean the bead and plug the hole or whatever to save a future headache.
Of course when it’s a loaner or rental, reality boys, strap it together, blow some air in it and send it home. It’s only your problem as long as it’s yours.
Extremely rare for a tire to break the bead unless driven flat, messick should know better. Starter fluid not encouraged but highly effective. The cheetah inflator is much faster, they are so inexpensive now (chinese), should be part of every tool arsenal. To the safety police: KMA
An FEL sure make it easier!
When mounting trailer tires at my house on the floor. I’ve had good luck pulling the valve core and using a blow gun to to inflate the tire to set beads. You can get a lot of air shot in there pretty fast like an actual tire machine. Get that first real fast blast of air in the tire for rapid expansion.
I do believe you mean you remove the valve stem core, the the valve stem! Removal of the valve stem would require breaking the bead seal to replace the valve stem, whereas the core removal just requires a tool design for that purpose!
Yep you caught my mistake. Valve core is what I meant.
Explosions are much more fun!!!
I had a air chuck that clips on and stays. Then pulled on tire. Filled fairly quickly.
First wear safety glasses, clean the bead with a damp cloth with a product like glass clean, take the valve core out, put the air filler on, and hit the tire face until it beads. And put the valve core back in when done
Most times hitting the tire with a sledge isnt needed as the missing core lets in enough air