Domnule Petrescu vreau să va felicit pentru acest videoclip, de curând mi-am cumpărat un BMW R1150 RT an fabricație 2014 la care câteodată apare eroarea ABS și după câteva zile dispare , voi schimba lichidul de frână poate voi scăpa de această problemă iar dacă nu voi incerca să repar unitatea ABS după instrucțiunile dumneavoastră din videoclip. Salutări din Hamburg.
Multumesc, Claudiu! Ma bucur ca videoclipul meu este apreciat!...Posibil ca eroarea sa fie de la reziduurile din lichidul de frana si care afecteaza functionarea pistoanelor. Dar cel mai des "cade" motorul de servo pe circuitul din spate din cauza uzurii colectorului sau unul dintre cei doi senzori de presiune.... Nu pot spune cu certitudine decat dupa ce inspectezi continutul.... Incearca mai intai cu schimbarea lichidului... dar vezi cum faci aerisirea... am un clip si cu operatiunea asta (de fapt, doua..)....poate le vizionezi... Succes! PS> acum sunt in Germania (München..) cu tot cu BMW-ul meu... 😉
Great video, exactly what I was looking for.... now I'm off to stage 2 of my iabs ... removing the unit then onto cleaning and refurbishing! Here's to hoping that everything is working inside the unit! Else begins the treasure hunt for parts! Thank you very much for doing the video!
Hej Christinel. Tak for en meget god video om ABS Blok. Det giver en god forståelse at se det og så virker det ikke så svært at gå i gang med det. Glæder mig til at se din video med at samle den igen. Bliv ved med at vise det du gør. Super god forklaring af hvad du gør, Jens , Danmark
Hello Christinel. Thanks a lot for your terrific video and explanation. Thanks to you I could get my ABS unit out and open it. As you have so much experience I hope to get your help with my issue... The ABS functioned all well, till a huge rain came over and after that there was no way of entering the ABS unit with my Elm327-mini. Failurecode on the instrumentpart of the ELM: ABS: no contact Instrumentcombi: 9311 No CAN message (from ABS) und 9312 (No CAN message for speed signal (from ABS). Frame (?): 27EB No CAN message (from ZFE. After I opened the ABS circuit board, it was clear: all wet and most probably burned through. I tried to find a used ABS unit but no luck. I could let it repair at RH Elektroniks in Germany, but that will cost 1300 Euros and they only can do it in winter.. I did find another circuit board, but that has another number. Mine is FTE S2AB90040 (K1200S/k40)) and the one offered is S2AB90037 (K1200RS). Do you know if I can use the offered one without any programming issues (I cannot enter the circuit boards with BMW's inpa/ista)? Best wishes Vincent Drost
Vincent, I am so glad you appreciate my experience! Yet, I no "guru" in this matter, but I can share with you my thoughts.. First, it's most uncommon that water could enter the electronic board's chamber, as this should be well sealed... Most probably it's not water, but brake fluid, and that is bad (I know from my own wxperience...), this can affect circuits and components... Try cu clean it well and check the other orings used for sealing... Changing the board is easy to do, but you will lose the CAN-BUS connection (without reprogramming to be accepted on the BUS). I looked much into this and found out it's much more expensive for me to get such a device (I saw something from China, but did not proceed with it...), so re-programming a unit is pain in the ass... Only a BMW workshop can do it and will not be cheap (not mentioning that BMW does not service used units, only installs new ones...). So, if you change the board, you must reprogram it to be accepted in the system, other way it will not work... My advice: try to revive your board.... Good luck with it! Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Hi Cris, in reality there is one other way if you change the boad. Instead of to reporgramm the board you can simply connect the wires to GND or let them floating depending on the model bike linked to the electronic board. This has to be done inside the abs modulator. Then you can cut/remove the connections /pins going to the bike and so you can install the modulator in all bike models. I did in this way to install a modulator for BMW R 1100S to a BMW R 1150RS.
@@riccardolavorerio6189 Richardo, I realy doubt that could work... Why? Because the ABS unit has also two other functions, one being the speed control, and the other is the brake light, both using the data bus of the whole system, where the ABS unit is linked to... So, no data exchange on the bus with the ECU, no speed control, no brake lights, no ABS.... If you did something that worked, maybe you make a video on it, to share that experience... Best wishes!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 HI Chris, I tried to connect an ABS modulator for BMR R 1100S to my BMW R 1150 RS. As soon I turned the ignition ON, one or both of the electrico motor start to run 100% even without touching the break. Looking in the diagnose I got error like "fail identification code". Then I removed the ABS and I gave the pin 27.28,29, 30 the right configuration for R 1100 S some needs to be connected to GND (pin27) and the other need to be left floating. In thais case when I powered the unit I could hear that the motors were enabled for a short time (Self test) and I could activate the breakes by playing with the right switches. Regarding the speed sensor. My R 1150 RS does have a normal speed sensor with cable, so I do not think there is any issue. The ABS modulator does need to measure the speed anyway. And about the rear liight and break light, they are managed by the ABS modulator, but just with simple combinatory logic. I do not think really than you data through the bus is transferred. I am just closing this ABS unit and I will try also on the bike, but honestly I do not know when...Actually the unit mounted on my bike (I bought some years ago used) is working very well...and in addition I do have the orignial unit repaired (issue was a mulfunction motor that I cleaned and now it seems it is working pretty well). Maybe I can send you some pictures of the motors. I am not very good like you in doing video. Anyway your videos were very very useful! Thank you and Tale Care! Riccardo
Hi Cris, thank you for your great explanation! One question please. Around the minute 45 of this video you showed the pipe of the oil with the blue filter. I guess my filter is dirty. How do you suggest to clean this filter? Is it possible to remove the blue filter from the output oil pipe? The oil pipe mean is the part you need a wrench of size 15mm to remove from the body of the abs modulator. At the end of this pipe there is a blue filter. There is one for the front break and one for the rear one. Thank you so much! Riccardo
BRAVO! Chris for this excellent video which I watched with great interest My problem is that when I dismantled the saddle I realized that I have a BMW RT 1100 equipped with the abs II module and I can’t find any tuto on the net that describes its dismantling . Aziz from Casablanca Morocco
Aziz, thank you for your interest in my video clips. It just happens I had before a K1100LT equipped with an ABS II unit. I remember I have found (not easy) some information an that unit, too. That is not the "integral" type, that means each circuit (front and rear) has its own separate action. All the issues I have heard involving ABS II were electrical. But it is more "secured" than iABS III, as that one does not have the "residual braking" issue... Good luck with it, Chris
Don't worry! The solenoids can be put back. Just take care not to drop any pieces from inside the command channels...Or even if they do, put them back with care...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Maybe you can help me again. I put the unit back together after replacing the ECU, and it gave me weird errors. The unit ran continuously not stopping. I reprogrammed it, and it was generally behaving weird. Hooking it up to the computer, it's showing me ridiculously high pressures on the pressure sensors. Did you run into something like this? Do you have any tips for repairing this?
@@FryChicken You said you replaced the ECU... Yes, this is possible, but veeeery difficult... I wonder how did reprogram it.... It needs BMW programming tool and BMW software... Both are expensive or to be found only in BMW service workshops. I did not try reprogramming the ECU due to these difficulties... About the high pressure values, it's either due to bad sensors, or bad electronic board... When you put the contact, the self testing ends well or not (ABS light slow blinking or quick?)? - this self test is very important...
Hi Christinel, thank you for this helpful video! My motor is BMW R1150RT 2003 model. I have separated the pump as you are telling in the video. The connectors of the motor are diminished, worn out. The part that is touched by the Carbon brush is worn out, defect. The copper is worn out, empty. So I need 2 motors, do you have any recommendation where to buy? I am from Holland, Rotterdam. Have a good evening, Ahmet.
As the unut is official not serviceable, you will not find spare parts to buy... But look on eBay and find a simular unit for sell... Then you salvage the parts you need... Good luck!
Hello Mr. Cristinel I follow your excellent tutorial about how to dismantle the damned FTE unit from my R1150RT year 2001 (the first model!) And I opened and found in general good condition but one motor (the one of the front brake that gave problems) was full of residual dust like in your example and the carbon was quite finished and the place where the carbon touch is a bit black, maybe I have to clean with sandpaper. How can I change carbons? Is possible to adapt some carbons and insert in some way into the rotor? And last question is: Is possible to find a running used motor autside or is possible to contact the manifacturer of the motor that was written in the motor but now invisible? Thank you in advance. I think that if I solve the motor problem the bike return braking like new!
The easyest way is to buy from Ebay an ABS unit (defective), for its components... For sure you will get out at least a good motor from it! Changing the carbon contacts is tricky, as ou can hardly find something that fits... The ABS unit is not meant from BMW to be serviced, so findind parts in a store/workshop is not an option...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 I found two great persons in Modena here in Italy that are able to recontruct the consumed induct (i don't know if is called like so in english) becomed black and are able to recontruct all the rotor and adapt some special carbon (thet consumes very hardly). They give me the motor ready next monday so I can reassemble all and try if the abs unit is working again. Thank you for the suggestions and I will notice you about the progress :-)
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 and it's a scandal that BMW doesn't repair this unit. I will to a bad campaign against BMW because it's like to be stolen of money legally. Vry bad behaviour from BMW!
@@audioqube6593 The reason this kind of unit is not serviced by BMW is because is an old design that has a big issue - in case of malfunction you just remain without brakes at all!... :(
Muy instructivo el vídeo , explica perfectamente cómo reparar esta unidad. Gracias . Solo me gustaría saber donde adquirir las puntas de desatornillador especiales para soltar los tornillos que hay que aflojar al inicio del trabajo
Those screws are locked from factory. They were not supposed to be unscrewed, as BMW did not allow the unit to be serviced. The "work around" was to drill the head of screws, then unscrew using a good plier. I did a small clip showing exactly this procedure. Look for it! Good luck!
If I understand right, you are asking how much costs to have a ABS unit checked? Sorry, I cannot answer that... For your information, the BMW (the firm) does NOT service an ABS unit, they only CHANGE it (in their local service centers). And a new unit is $$$ (expect around 3000 EUR with labor...). That is why many BMW owners try to solve the issues with this unit "in private" (that is for themselves), like me... :)
I have been trying unsuccessfully to find wiring diagram for R1200CL. Would you know where on can be obtained. I need to rewire cluster going into ABS modules ECU. Thanks
Hello Christinel. Thanks for a great and well-filmed video. I see that around the servo pistons, there seems to be a collar on each piston. There are two notches on each collar. I wanted to know if this device (guide, spacer... not sure?) is just a guide or spacer for each piston to slide smoothly into the reservoir chambers, or if the notches must be in a specific position to perform a specific function. Thanks for letting me know your thoughts. The collars are approximately 10 mm wide and sit in front of the o-ring that seals the piston into the reservoir chamber. Vivian
Hi Cristinel thanks for the great video i have a k1200s with the same unit i striped it yesterday, one of the pumps fell from my table and it damaged the ceramic pump plate :( , do you know if you can purchase theses plates All the very best John uk
Hi, John! The answer is no, you cannot find that ceramic pump plate to buy... That is because this unit was not intended by the manufacturer (BMW) to be serviced, only replaced ($$$...). Your solution is to find on an electronic market (like eBay) a similar unit, cheap (even not working), and salvage the parts you need. Good luck!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 thanks for the advice, and your videos your a good man , here is something for you, ! Cristinel i striped out the second servo motor from the body today very gently and carefully you and the ceramic plate was broken in 2 parts just the screws holding it in place , on an ABs system with only 20,000 k of use , very worrying! i’m considering having Phosphor bronze plates made, i took it to a friend model maker engineer today and he says he can make them, i’ll let you know thank you again for your help. kind regards John
@@johnwilliamsfolk7251 How did it go? I also broke the silly porcelain cap by not aligning the screws exactly. It just said crack and it was in ten pieces.
Hi Chris. Very Cool videos. It gave me enough confidence to give it a try. I was going to get the motors rebuild or buy new ones. But you indicated that a bad motor can burn out a transistor. Is this a high possibly?? Thanks. Bob
No, that’s a rare situation... About rebuild : I wonder who would do it... And new ones: hard to find and big $$$$! I suggest you buying a used unit and take motors from it... Good luck! Chris
Hi! You can salvage some of the parts from another unit (you can find some on e-markets like eBay) or the sealing parts from specific producers (I have another video explaining sourcing the sealing O rings). Good luck!
Hi Cristinel, First, thanks for your video's. Can't make it any more clear than this. I dismantled my unit as well and found that the hydraulic pumphead (white ceramic part) was broken, probably during opening or something. As a result, I need to find another one (the other pump head is still intact). Do you happen to have some info on people/companies who can deliver the pump head part ? Also, can the solenoids be actuated by hand easily? It looks my solenoids are stuck. (after 8 years of doing nothing).
Hi Kees, Nice to know you! The pump is not to be found as spare parts, while BMW is against servicing the ABS unit (they only replace them $$$$$). But I suggest looking on e-markets (like eBay) to find a used unit or even a defective one (the probability to have both pumps also dead is almost zero). The solenoid should be manually operated (you feel quite a bit of resistance, but they ought NOT be stucked). Keep up the good work! Post your experience! Chris
Hi cris i dont see on the video the moment you disassemble the top black plastic reservoir hold by 6 ts15 screws on the top of the unit. Any special trick here?
My unit (horizontal mount) is a 2003 from an R1200 CLC. The other one is vertical mount (could be an RS or GS). This kind of ABS unit was in production somewhere between 2002-2006. They are VERY distinctive from the others (before and after), making a "wheezee" noise when working (the servo).... Also, they look very unique (in my video you see both variants).
Hi, Christinel! Thank you for your commitment to save the environment, ;) , and what´s left of our wallets... I´ve changed my both motors in my ABSIII-unit. I´ve also sent the electronic board for testing (no faults colud be found) and the pressure transmitters were also OK. I´ve been bleeding the system with success, after a while, on the command side. But on the Power side the pumps dont deliver any pressure during bleeding procedure (the pumps do run when i apply the breaks gently). i can only bleed manually. When I start the bike the testing goes well. I do not get any failure identification before I try to brake during driving. I get no braking assistance and "residual brakes" code appears. When i hit the breaks hard, the pump/s (?) still run when I´m standing still with ignition on and no breaks are applied. Do you think I still have air in my system anywhere? or is it still something wrong with the electric board or do you have another idea/guess?
Hi, Michael! Another one bites the dust.... lol! I know that feeling... If sealings are ok in the unit, it should not be an issue to bleed the circuits, both command and power. It's unusual not to be able to bleed the power circuits with contact on. If pumps are working, pressure must be built there... My guess pumps are not working well (just the motor to run is not enough...). Not having the right pressure in the power circuits when braking will take the ABS out of work and pass to "residual"... The fact the motor/s continue running can also be linked to that (or even due to presence of brake fluid on the circuit board). So check the pumps for any damage - they are very delicate with those tiny metal pieces and ceramic case. When bleeding the power circuits, you should hear a modulated whirling motor/pump sound, lower and harder as you apply more and more pressure on brake lever (because more load on pump induce a reduction of revs on motor). At the same time, the brake fluid should visibly run faster in the plastic bleeding hose (with the caliper screw a little open). If not, but the motor is spinning, no or little pressure is built - check the pump! I hope it helps. Good luck with it! Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Hi, Christinel! Hope you are well. Just a follow up... You were right about the pumps. But the problem was some what surpricing to me. The rotors rotated the wrong way, so the pumps were sucking on the pressure side and building pressure into the reservoir... So I switched the +/- to the motors. Voila! The bleeding worked fine and no error messages on the panel, the braking works just fine. (Still nervous thou during every self test and start up...) Thank you, again! Mikael
@@mikaelkemi7681 First time I hear that... lol! The motor's electric connections do not have the same width, exactly for this reason (to not power the motor the wrong polarity). In your case, I guess it was a flaw in wiring, giving the possibility of connecting the wrong poles.... Anyhow, what can be a bigger joy than riding a fully functional bike again?.... :)
Salutare. Dețin un Bmw R1100RS din 2000. Iar becurile de la abs clipesc alternativ, am încercat să resetez pompa abs, becurile mi se aprindeau simultan cum ar trebui, dar când plecam de pe loc și parcurgeam 5 metri acceeasi problema persista... Orice informație m-ar ajuta... Nu as vrea sa ajung sa anulez abs-ul. Mulțumesc
Salut! Din cele mentionate, resetul la start al computerului (care include si senzorii de presiune) este OK. Daca din rulaj (fara apasarea franei!) trece in starea de eroare, inseamna ca problema este la senzorii de la roti (citirea impulsurilor), care nu este "sincrona" pe ambele roti (transmite calculatorului ca rotile s-ar roti cu viteze diferite). Deci verifica cei doi senzori sau distanta fata de inelele ABS. Succes!
This a very interesting video. There is one question I have. How do you remove the ABS unit from the bike? It seems impossible as bolts are not accessible. Can anyone help?
Even if they are hard to reach, they are not impossible to open. You should see my other video about reinstalling the unit, where you can see where the bolts are (th-cam.com/video/vmqXL_ysD18/w-d-xo.html). Just use the right hex (allen) key (an extension may be needed). If I remember well, there are two bolts each side. Keep the good work!
Hi Christinel, thank you for your very informative video. I have removed and serviced my unit out of an GS Adventure 2003 model, also replacing all of the O rings as you have described with the special requirements to go into brake fluid. However, I have noticed that the rear circuit which has not been functioning was as a result of a mix of the dissolved rubber of the old brakelines wich came out as a thick tar, and the brake fluid. I saw that the pump mechanism on this was badly pitted and corroded (the Stainless steel plate) , although both the motors I have cleaned as you have showed, and both are working. After reassembly, and with the bleeding sequence, the rear brake worked. However when I went for a test ride, the rear was once again only working on risidual pressure, without servo assistance. I have also noticed that when the bike is switched off the front brake circuit does not brake at all with risidual pressure. Do you have any advice? Do I need to reset something on the Ecu as well? Thanks again for your help and great video.
Adriaan, I am very happy when I see my video clips help others to solve their ABS issues. Your case was almost identical to mine. Regarding your situation, here are my advices: All the 4 (four) circuits (2 command and 2 power brakes) are completely separate. They do NOT communicate with each other in terms of brake fluid, so you need to bleed them ALL, one by one (first the command ones, then the power ones). For the command circuits, you do not need to put contact, the are to be bleeded only manually. For the power circuits you need to put contact, as the pressure will be build in the circuits by the electric pumps. Now about the residual braking... The system works like this> you put contact, the system makes a check. If the check is OK, both red lights on the dashboard flash slowly, together. If they flash alternately, that is a ABS error and system is left only with residual braking. After you roll a few meters, the abs wheel sensors send to the unit pulses, which are also analyzed by the unit. If they are OK, the red flashing lights on the dashboard just switch off and the ABS is functioning. If the signals are NOT right (maybe one wheel sensor is disconnected or defective), the ABS switches to "residual braking" and the red lamps flash alternatively, to show you do NOT have ABS (nor brakes, as in residual braking the force you need to apply on levers to feel any braking effect is BIG!).. I hope this helps... Keep on the good work! Chris
Hi, the solenoids are either good, or bad (circuit discontinued)... So, test the windings with a multimeter and see.... If the solenoid goes short, it will blow the power transistor on the board...
Looks like you have a defective electronic board... The motors are activated through high current transistors. If they get super hot, they might just get shortcuted... and the motors run uncontrolled. Take the board out and look at it... If you start the motorcycle, but ABS 's motors stay silent and they run continuously after pulling the brake lever, the issue is elsewhere, probably the pressure sensors... Good luck!
Hello Cristinel. Very good movies and very nice explained! But of curiosity because you have a Romanian name: are you romanian, or are you ancestors from Romania? I would love to be so! You were telling a nominee that you want to replace the ABS module with one of a newer generation. Do you think it's scary? Do you know how this could be done? I am also interested in having a GS in 2006 with the same type of ABS module. If I can help you with something, please tell me!
Of course I am Romanian ! Changing the ABS unit (because of the bad design of my ABS unit) is a dear project of mine, but the time is not on my side....
Hello i have a bmw r1150rt 2001, pump making noises when ignition turned on. Sometimes pump is activated by pressing front brake but now always. It starts to run Everytime from the rear brake and the pump wont stop running, pump sounds healty. Abs light is flashing and abs doesent work. We changed the brake fluid in the abs unit the right way and it didint help, do you have any tips where to start looking????? Does reading the fault codes help? Thanks for the reply! Edit::: i opened the electic box and the two black things had taken some heat damage. What causes that?
Hi, Zacharias! From your description, I could think only one out of two: either the pressure sensors are giving bad information to the board, or the board itself has a problem... You can start by looking carefully to the board and check the components (mostly the active ones), then change the sensors (taken from onother unit).. See what happens... Good luck!
I manage to buy a bmw gs circuit plate. Eith a diffrent number on the cover but it looks the same, have you anyidea if it works with my rt? Thanks for the reply
@@Zacharias1 It will shure do, but: 1. Considering the electronic board from your unit is OK, move it to the new unit (easy job!) Should work... 2. Do the same as above, but you find out that the symptoms are the same... That means the electronic board (from your unit) is bad... 3. You cannot use the new electronic board, as this is coded for the ECU of the donor motorcycle (to recode it only a BMW workshop can do...). But you can use the components to repair the old board if you can identify the bad components...
Dear Cristinel, I got ABS error on My 2006 R1200GS. Front circuit is is not operational anymore, back circuit still moves brake fluid. Once motor is started by the foot pedal, it never stops unless you turn an ignition off. Seems Servo motors need to be changed (complete flush did not help). ABS Model is FTE S2AB90040. Could you please suggest which motors & brushes are used in the system and possible source, where can I buy them? Many thanks!
Hi! The motors are all the same for this type of ABS unit... You will not find new ones, as BMW does not service this unit, only replace them ($$$$$...). My suggestion, as I did for myself, is to find on eBay a unit (in any condition), as the probability to have both motors bad is very low... Salvage the motors from that unit and use them in yours... Good luck!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Dear Cristinel, thank you so much! I have disassembled ABS block per your video and opened servo motors. There has been some dirt, but brushes and collectors are like new. (I noticed that motors are manufactured in 2011, so seem previous owner has changed whole ABS block). I have checked both motors by 12 V battery, both are operational. Could you please suggest what should I check next? what can be a reason?
@@davitpapiashvili6375 Looks like a sensor issue... They are known to go bad and couse the electronic part (board) go crazy.... Again, my advice is to change them from another unit and see if the problem solves...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Thank you so much dear Cristinel. Could you please specify which sensor? Here in Georgia chances of getting another unit is very low, so in the meantime I am trying find and rectify the cause... Could this sensor issue cause front circuit not to transfer the fluid? Pushing foot pedal while lines were open was moving fluid (Turning Motors), but pushing hand brake was not.
@@davitpapiashvili6375 I suggest you to watch my other video about this i-ABS III type from BMW called "how it works".. You will see there that this system is "integral", that is no matter you pull the hand lever or the foot pedal, BOTH circuits must react as one... Also, in this design, command lines are ISOLATED from the power lines (calipers). With the command line from the front circuit open (at ABS unit), you should also push the brake fluid with the lever... otherwise, not (it's a closed circuit, ONLY for command...)
Hello. The pressure sensor of the front circuit shows me an error. Can I replace such a sensor by taking it from another ABS unit. Are these sensors the same?
Andrei, yes, the sensors in this kind of unit iABS III are all the same, so you can take it from another unit (which you can buy cheap if it has another issue). There is a sensor for the command circuit, and one for the power (servo) circuit. I guess you are referring to the sensor from the power circuit. They are technically equal, but the length of the ribbon cables are different. I hope that helps ... Best regards, Chris
Excellent video. Thank you. However, I need help. I marked the position of the pumps, but not good enough. The only factory identifying marks are dots on the side of the pumps. I don't see any corresponding marks on the body. Or, it would help if you could tell me which holes on the body are IN and OUT of the body. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It might be useful info: the company that makes the motors K.A.G. appears to be an active business and sells the motors for these units. I am also interested in any info on rebuilding parts. Also for those interested there is a Polish company that advertises on French Ebay that appears to sell a real nice ABS elimination package. Freight costs from USA make it questionable from here. Thanks
Hi, Joe! To be sure, if you could PM me with pictures of the parts, it would be easier... In my video I pointed out the reassamble position of the motor unit (pump+motor). Just verify that the two inlets of the pump correspond to the two holes in the housing and the motor electctric terminals are in the presented position. Sometimes a bad motor must be replaced, like in my video (collector and brushes worn out, sealing ring not sealing anymore...).
Yes, in fact I did... but only two... One is in US, www.modulemaster.com, but as far as I know, they suspended repair for this ABS model due to lack of components. The other is in Germany, www.RHelectronics.de, they can repair it and send it back, but it's not cheap (about half of a new one).
Hi, Cris, thank you for sharing. Out of curiosity, what would you do with the pump /generator module that was worn and how would you get the ABS functional again?
Easy: save it for parts... you'll never know when you you need one... As for how to make it functional again, first you need to identify the defective part(s) and replace it/them.
I mean in terms of this video. What did you do with the bad module? Save it for parts/supplement another bad module? Just had a 2nd generation module go bad (2008 R1200GS w/76k miles). I sent the module to a rebuilder.
Hello Cristinel Petrescu !! I live in Brazil and found your video very interesting, my bike BMW K1200R year 2005 with 10,000 miles presented problems in the ABS part number 34517698296 I bought the bike and I want to tidy but I came across very high value you have any idea how I can solve the question ? thankful
If your unit is an ABS III, that's the reason is so expensive to find a substitute... Also, the reason me and others tried to sort this out by themselves... Welcome in the club! In my videos I give some hints for repairs, but only if you consider you can take the chances...
Grateful for the return, in my case ABS and very little different, what I realized is that in 2005 BMW released version II of the same model of bike, all the same and looking at the parts catalog changed only the ABS model the which characterizes to my understanding that had failed in the old design of the ABS, to make a recall they preferred to launch a new version of the bike .. In Brazil with all taxes, the ABS costs $ 5,500 dollars, value greater than the Bike. A US company is developing the tool to do the repair, I think by June it will be ready and will charge $ 750.00. modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs3/ Abs.
Hehehehe... We know that one.... They did it long time ago and then gave up...saying they will do it again soon...which never comes... So, you have just two alternatives: either switch on "classic", that is no ABS, or repair it (if you have technical skills)... I have never heard somebody buying it as new... too expensive.. You might find, though, a good unit from another bike (same ABS model), just change the "top" with the electronic board, and voilla-la! You have a working ABS unit!
Good afternoon I have an ABS module FTE S2AB90039 of a BMW R1150 R and I drip hydraulic under the module, it works but when I lose the hydraulic failure, I know that a repair kit is sold but I can not get them.
I do not think it's from the unit... More from the pipe's connection to the unit... They have a small sealing ring that can brake and than you can loose brake fluid when you pressurize the circuits.
No, you'll never find a "repair kit", as, by the book, the module is NOT to be opened or serviceable.... We do it because the huge cost of a new unit...
Cristinel. I just took another look at it. Appears that the pump would intake from the reservoir through the 2 small holes. but then the larger holes that have O rings are 180 degrees apart. Doesn't make sense. Thanks
In my video you see the pump disassambled. The intakes are the four side holes (where are also two round holes for the two long bolts) and the exits are both holes sealed with orings. Exits then come together in the housing (the power brake chamber).
Cristenel, thanks for your reply. The pump did what it looked like but was a little strange.I can't figure out any way to upload anything to you. I wanted to share a picture of the label on the motor before the brake fluid ate the info. Here is some of the info someone may need (looked on the web as though it can be ordered); K.A.G. ?appelweg 4, 30179 Hannover Typ M42x30/ I+G Spannung: 12v Dr?hzahl: 5450 min-1 being 18,0 Ncm Best. Nr.y. 220217g 03/05/07. 769428 Made in Germany
crazy Joe , I posted an answer to that question. Both holes with Orings are exits, they both come together in the housing in the power servo chamber. So, it makes perfect sense...
If you want to send me a message and/or pictures, better use email, that is"pe.cristi" at gmail.com. The pump is not strange at all and is the least part to be broken. My advice is not to acquire a new motor, but buy a cheap (defective) unit of the same generation (ABS III or i-ABS I) and you'll have the parts you need. Try eBay... It's almost impossible to buy a unit with both motors defective and the price will be the same (beside that, you'll have other spare parts that might be usefull...). All the i-ABS version I (ABS III) units use the same motors, so the labels is not something to focus on.
Am acelasi ABS ca al dvs. si am ceva probleme,. Ma putețiajuta va rog cu reparatia lui,contracost,va rog.Daca imi lasati o adresa de mail,putem comunica mai usor.Multumesc@@cristinelpetrescu1081
Bravo mister Petrescu, best regards from Belgrade SRB!
Domnule Petrescu vreau să va felicit pentru acest videoclip, de curând mi-am cumpărat un BMW R1150 RT an fabricație 2014 la care câteodată apare eroarea ABS și după câteva zile dispare , voi schimba lichidul de frână poate voi scăpa de această problemă iar dacă nu voi incerca să repar unitatea ABS după instrucțiunile dumneavoastră din videoclip. Salutări din Hamburg.
Multumesc, Claudiu! Ma bucur ca videoclipul meu este apreciat!...Posibil ca eroarea sa fie de la reziduurile din lichidul de frana si care afecteaza functionarea pistoanelor. Dar cel mai des "cade" motorul de servo pe circuitul din spate din cauza uzurii colectorului sau unul dintre cei doi senzori de presiune.... Nu pot spune cu certitudine decat dupa ce inspectezi continutul.... Incearca mai intai cu schimbarea lichidului... dar vezi cum faci aerisirea... am un clip si cu operatiunea asta (de fapt, doua..)....poate le vizionezi... Succes! PS> acum sunt in Germania (München..) cu tot cu BMW-ul meu... 😉
Great video, exactly what I was looking for.... now I'm off to stage 2 of my iabs ... removing the unit then onto cleaning and refurbishing! Here's to hoping that everything is working inside the unit! Else begins the treasure hunt for parts! Thank you very much for doing the video!
Glad to be helpful!
Well done Cris, keep going this is very valuable information that will lead to people being able to fix their ABS units themselves, good work.
Hej Christinel. Tak for en meget god video om ABS Blok. Det giver en god forståelse at se det og så virker det ikke så svært at gå i gang med det. Glæder mig til at se din video med at samle den igen. Bliv ved med at vise det du gør. Super god forklaring af hvad du gør, Jens , Danmark
Very good impression form de ABS unit. good explanation of disamble abs unit.
Hello Christinel. Thanks a lot for your terrific video and explanation. Thanks to you I could get my ABS unit out and open it. As you have so much experience I hope to get your help with my issue...
The ABS functioned all well, till a huge rain came over and after that there was no way of entering the ABS unit with my Elm327-mini. Failurecode on the instrumentpart of the ELM: ABS: no contact
Instrumentcombi: 9311 No CAN message (from ABS) und 9312 (No CAN message for speed signal (from ABS).
Frame (?): 27EB No CAN message (from ZFE.
After I opened the ABS circuit board, it was clear: all wet and most probably burned through.
I tried to find a used ABS unit but no luck. I could let it repair at RH Elektroniks in Germany, but that will cost 1300 Euros and they only can do it in winter.. I did find another circuit board, but that has another number. Mine is FTE S2AB90040 (K1200S/k40)) and the one offered is S2AB90037 (K1200RS). Do you know if I can use the offered one without any programming issues (I cannot enter the circuit boards with BMW's inpa/ista)?
Best wishes
Vincent Drost
Vincent, I am so glad you appreciate my experience! Yet, I no "guru" in this matter, but I can share with you my thoughts.. First, it's most uncommon that water could enter the electronic board's chamber, as this should be well sealed... Most probably it's not water, but brake fluid, and that is bad (I know from my own wxperience...), this can affect circuits and components... Try cu clean it well and check the other orings used for sealing... Changing the board is easy to do, but you will lose the CAN-BUS connection (without reprogramming to be accepted on the BUS). I looked much into this and found out it's much more expensive for me to get such a device (I saw something from China, but did not proceed with it...), so re-programming a unit is pain in the ass... Only a BMW workshop can do it and will not be cheap (not mentioning that BMW does not service used units, only installs new ones...).
So, if you change the board, you must reprogram it to be accepted in the system, other way it will not work... My advice: try to revive your board....
Good luck with it! Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Hi Cris, in reality there is one other way if you change the boad. Instead of to reporgramm the board you can simply connect the wires to GND or let them floating depending on the model bike linked to the electronic board. This has to be done inside the abs modulator. Then you can cut/remove the connections /pins going to the bike and so you can install the modulator in all bike models. I did in this way to install a modulator for BMW R 1100S to a BMW R 1150RS.
@@riccardolavorerio6189 Richardo, I realy doubt that could work... Why? Because the ABS unit has also two other functions, one being the speed control, and the other is the brake light, both using the data bus of the whole system, where the ABS unit is linked to... So, no data exchange on the bus with the ECU, no speed control, no brake lights, no ABS.... If you did something that worked, maybe you make a video on it, to share that experience... Best wishes!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 HI Chris, I tried to connect an ABS modulator for BMR R 1100S to my BMW R 1150 RS. As soon I turned the ignition ON, one or both of the electrico motor start to run 100% even without touching the break. Looking in the diagnose I got error like "fail identification code". Then I removed the ABS and I gave the pin 27.28,29, 30 the right configuration for R 1100 S some needs to be connected to GND (pin27) and the other need to be left floating. In thais case when I powered the unit I could hear that the motors were enabled for a short time (Self test) and I could activate the breakes by playing with the right switches. Regarding the speed sensor. My R 1150 RS does have a normal speed sensor with cable, so I do not think there is any issue. The ABS modulator does need to measure the speed anyway. And about the rear liight and break light, they are managed by the ABS modulator, but just with simple combinatory logic. I do not think really than you data through the bus is transferred. I am just closing this ABS unit and I will try also on the bike, but honestly I do not know when...Actually the unit mounted on my bike (I bought some years ago used) is working very well...and in addition I do have the orignial unit repaired (issue was a mulfunction motor that I cleaned and now it seems it is working pretty well). Maybe I can send you some pictures of the motors. I am not very good like you in doing video. Anyway your videos were very very useful! Thank you and Tale Care! Riccardo
Hi Cris, thank you for your great explanation!
One question please. Around the minute 45 of this video you showed the pipe of the oil with the blue filter. I guess my filter is dirty. How do you suggest to clean this filter? Is it possible to remove the blue filter from the output oil pipe? The oil pipe mean is the part you need a wrench of size 15mm to remove from the body of the abs modulator. At the end of this pipe there is a blue filter. There is one for the front break and one for the rear one. Thank you so much! Riccardo
BRAVO! Chris for this excellent video which I watched with great interest
My problem is that when I dismantled the saddle I realized that I have a BMW RT 1100 equipped with the abs II module and I can’t find any tuto on the net that describes its dismantling .
Aziz from Casablanca Morocco
Aziz, thank you for your interest in my video clips. It just happens I had before a K1100LT equipped with an ABS II unit. I remember I have found (not easy) some information an that unit, too. That is not the "integral" type, that means each circuit (front and rear) has its own separate action. All the issues I have heard involving ABS II were electrical. But it is more "secured" than iABS III, as that one does not have the "residual braking" issue...
Good luck with it,
Chris
Bravo Maestre! Am si eu eroare in ABS, voi demonta si eu modulul la K1200RS 2003. Poate reusesc sa-i dau de cap
Salut! Ma bucur ca te inspira clipul meu... Daca ai intrebari, sunt mai mult decat bucuros sa-ti raspund... Succes!
I wish I'd paid more attention. the part you said to not touch, I touched. I pulled the solenoids out. I hope I can put them back if need be.
Don't worry! The solenoids can be put back. Just take care not to drop any pieces from inside the command channels...Or even if they do, put them back with care...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Your video is immeasurably helpful, thank you!
@@FryChicken :)
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Maybe you can help me again. I put the unit back together after replacing the ECU, and it gave me weird errors. The unit ran continuously not stopping. I reprogrammed it, and it was generally behaving weird. Hooking it up to the computer, it's showing me ridiculously high pressures on the pressure sensors. Did you run into something like this? Do you have any tips for repairing this?
@@FryChicken You said you replaced the ECU... Yes, this is possible, but veeeery difficult... I wonder how did reprogram it.... It needs BMW programming tool and BMW software... Both are expensive or to be found only in BMW service workshops. I did not try reprogramming the ECU due to these difficulties... About the high pressure values, it's either due to bad sensors, or bad electronic board... When you put the contact, the self testing ends well or not (ABS light slow blinking or quick?)? - this self test is very important...
Hi Christinel, thank you for this helpful video! My motor is BMW R1150RT 2003 model. I have separated the pump as you are telling in the video. The connectors of the motor are diminished, worn out. The part that is touched by the Carbon brush is worn out, defect. The copper is worn out, empty. So I need 2 motors, do you have any recommendation where to buy? I am from Holland, Rotterdam. Have a good evening, Ahmet.
As the unut is official not serviceable, you will not find spare parts to buy... But look on eBay and find a simular unit for sell... Then you salvage the parts you need... Good luck!
Hello Mr. Cristinel I follow your excellent tutorial about how to dismantle the damned FTE unit from my R1150RT year 2001 (the first model!) And I opened and found in general good condition but one motor (the one of the front brake that gave problems) was full of residual dust like in your example and the carbon was quite finished and the place where the carbon touch is a bit black, maybe I have to clean with sandpaper. How can I change carbons? Is possible to adapt some carbons and insert in some way into the rotor? And last question is: Is possible to find a running used motor autside or is possible to contact the manifacturer of the motor that was written in the motor but now invisible? Thank you in advance. I think that if I solve the motor problem the bike return braking like new!
The easyest way is to buy from Ebay an ABS unit (defective), for its components... For sure you will get out at least a good motor from it! Changing the carbon contacts is tricky, as ou can hardly find something that fits... The ABS unit is not meant from BMW to be serviced, so findind parts in a store/workshop is not an option...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 I found two great persons in Modena here in Italy that are able to recontruct the consumed induct (i don't know if is called like so in english) becomed black and are able to recontruct all the rotor and adapt some special carbon (thet consumes very hardly). They give me the motor ready next monday so I can reassemble all and try if the abs unit is working again. Thank you for the suggestions and I will notice you about the progress :-)
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 and it's a scandal that BMW doesn't repair this unit. I will to a bad campaign against BMW because it's like to be stolen of money legally. Vry bad behaviour from BMW!
@@audioqube6593 Good luck with it! It's great news that more and more people are doing their best to put these units back to work...
@@audioqube6593 The reason this kind of unit is not serviced by BMW is because is an old design that has a big issue - in case of malfunction you just remain without brakes at all!... :(
Ciao, dove posso reperire tutta la serie completa degli O'RING? Grazie mille!!!
Muy instructivo el vídeo , explica perfectamente cómo reparar esta unidad. Gracias . Solo me gustaría saber donde adquirir las puntas de desatornillador especiales para soltar los tornillos que hay que aflojar al inicio del trabajo
Those screws are locked from factory. They were not supposed to be unscrewed, as BMW did not allow the unit to be serviced. The "work around" was to drill the head of screws, then unscrew using a good plier. I did a small clip showing exactly this procedure. Look for it!
Good luck!
Hi sir .Which video is suitable .The sequence of draining the liquid is correct , Thanks for your reply
Hi, Davit! I am not sure I understand your question.... Maybe you can rephrase it...
Quanto mi verrebbe a costare un modulo ABS revisionato? Da installare su BMW R1150R del 2002. Grazie. Luciano da Siena
If I understand right, you are asking how much costs to have a ABS unit checked? Sorry, I cannot answer that... For your information, the BMW (the firm) does NOT service an ABS unit, they only CHANGE it (in their local service centers). And a new unit is $$$ (expect around 3000 EUR with labor...). That is why many BMW owners try to solve the issues with this unit "in private" (that is for themselves), like me... :)
I have been trying unsuccessfully to find wiring diagram for R1200CL. Would you know where on can be obtained. I need to rewire cluster going into ABS modules ECU. Thanks
Hello Christinel. Thanks for a great and well-filmed video. I see that around the servo pistons, there seems to be a collar on each piston. There are two notches on each collar. I wanted to know if this device (guide, spacer... not sure?) is just a guide or spacer for each piston to slide smoothly into the reservoir chambers, or if the notches must be in a specific position to perform a specific function. Thanks for letting me know your thoughts. The collars are approximately 10 mm wide and sit in front of the o-ring that seals the piston into the reservoir chamber. Vivian
Hi Cristinel thanks for the great video i have a k1200s with the same unit i striped it yesterday, one of the pumps fell from my table and it damaged the ceramic pump plate :( , do you know if you can purchase theses plates All the very best John uk
Hi, John! The answer is no, you cannot find that ceramic pump plate to buy... That is because this unit was not intended by the manufacturer (BMW) to be serviced, only replaced ($$$...). Your solution is to find on an electronic market (like eBay) a similar unit, cheap (even not working), and salvage the parts you need.
Good luck!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 thanks for the advice, and your videos your a good man , here is something for you, ! Cristinel i striped out the second servo motor from the body today very gently and carefully you and the ceramic plate was broken in 2 parts just the screws holding it in place , on an ABs system with only 20,000 k of use , very worrying! i’m considering having Phosphor bronze plates made, i took it to a friend model maker engineer today and he says he can make them, i’ll let you know thank you again for your help. kind regards John
@@johnwilliamsfolk7251 Wow! That's a first! I am eager to know how it works out!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 me too :)) ill let you know
@@johnwilliamsfolk7251 How did it go? I also broke the silly porcelain cap by not aligning the screws exactly. It just said crack and it was in ten pieces.
Hi Chris. Very Cool videos. It gave me enough confidence to give it a try. I was going to get the motors rebuild or buy new ones. But you indicated that a bad motor can burn out a transistor. Is this a high possibly?? Thanks. Bob
No, that’s a rare situation... About rebuild : I wonder who would do it... And new ones: hard to find and big $$$$! I suggest you buying a used unit and take motors from it... Good luck! Chris
Hi, great video, Where do you find the spare parts?
Hi! You can salvage some of the parts from another unit (you can find some on e-markets like eBay) or the sealing parts from specific producers (I have another video explaining sourcing the sealing O rings). Good luck!
Hi Cristinel,
First, thanks for your video's. Can't make it any more clear than this.
I dismantled my unit as well and found that the hydraulic pumphead (white ceramic part) was broken, probably during opening or something. As a result, I need to find another one (the other pump head is still intact).
Do you happen to have some info on people/companies who can deliver the pump head part ?
Also, can the solenoids be actuated by hand easily? It looks my solenoids are stuck. (after 8 years of doing nothing).
Hi Kees,
Nice to know you!
The pump is not to be found as spare parts, while BMW is against servicing the ABS unit (they only replace them $$$$$). But I suggest looking on e-markets (like eBay) to find a used unit or even a defective one (the probability to have both pumps also dead is almost zero).
The solenoid should be manually operated (you feel quite a bit of resistance, but they ought NOT be stucked).
Keep up the good work! Post your experience!
Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Thanx for your quick reply. Don't you have a spare one left ;-). I heard you have a broken motor inside......
Hi Christinel! Good work!!!!
Where did you get the new motor?
sincerely Frank
Hi, Frank! from another similar unit (also presented in the video)...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 +-
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Do you happen to have an engine left for sale?
Hi cris
i dont see on the video the moment you disassemble the top black plastic reservoir hold by 6 ts15 screws on the top of the unit. Any special trick here?
It's there... Look at 40:30. No tricks there...
what year models have this unit?
My unit (horizontal mount) is a 2003 from an R1200 CLC. The other one is vertical mount (could be an RS or GS). This kind of ABS unit was in production somewhere between 2002-2006. They are VERY distinctive from the others (before and after), making a "wheezee" noise when working (the servo).... Also, they look very unique (in my video you see both variants).
Great video, I've stripped down my ABS unit, anyone know the spec of all the o-rings as would love to recommission it properly!
Hi, please find my other video "BMW iABS III Sealing parts" where I explain exactly what you are looking for...
What a nice lesson....
Hi, Christinel!
Thank you for your commitment to save the environment, ;) , and what´s left of our wallets...
I´ve changed my both motors in my ABSIII-unit. I´ve also sent the electronic board for testing (no faults colud be found) and the pressure transmitters were also OK.
I´ve been bleeding the system with success, after a while, on the command side. But on the Power side the pumps dont deliver any pressure during bleeding procedure (the pumps do run when i apply the breaks gently). i can only bleed manually.
When I start the bike the testing goes well. I do not get any failure identification before I try to brake during driving. I get no braking assistance and "residual brakes" code appears.
When i hit the breaks hard, the pump/s (?) still run when I´m standing still with ignition on and no breaks are applied.
Do you think I still have air in my system anywhere? or is it still something wrong with the electric board or do you have another idea/guess?
Hi, Michael!
Another one bites the dust.... lol! I know that feeling...
If sealings are ok in the unit, it should not be an issue to bleed the circuits, both command and power. It's unusual not to be able to bleed the power circuits with contact on. If pumps are working, pressure must be built there... My guess pumps are not working well (just the motor to run is not enough...). Not having the right pressure in the power circuits when braking will take the ABS out of work and pass to "residual"... The fact the motor/s continue running can also be linked to that (or even due to presence of brake fluid on the circuit board).
So check the pumps for any damage - they are very delicate with those tiny metal pieces and ceramic case.
When bleeding the power circuits, you should hear a modulated whirling motor/pump sound, lower and harder as you apply more and more pressure on brake lever (because more load on pump induce a reduction of revs on motor). At the same time, the brake fluid should visibly run faster in the plastic bleeding hose (with the caliper screw a little open). If not, but the motor is spinning, no or little pressure is built - check the pump!
I hope it helps.
Good luck with it!
Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081
Hi, Christinel!
Hope you are well.
Just a follow up...
You were right about the pumps. But the problem was some what surpricing to me. The rotors rotated the wrong way, so the pumps were sucking on the pressure side and building pressure into the reservoir... So I switched the +/- to the motors. Voila! The bleeding worked fine and no error messages on the panel, the braking works just fine.
(Still nervous thou during every self test and start up...)
Thank you, again!
Mikael
@@mikaelkemi7681 First time I hear that... lol! The motor's electric connections do not have the same width, exactly for this reason (to not power the motor the wrong polarity). In your case, I guess it was a flaw in wiring, giving the possibility of connecting the wrong poles.... Anyhow, what can be a bigger joy than riding a fully functional bike again?.... :)
Salutare. Dețin un Bmw R1100RS din 2000. Iar becurile de la abs clipesc alternativ, am încercat să resetez pompa abs, becurile mi se aprindeau simultan cum ar trebui, dar când plecam de pe loc și parcurgeam 5 metri acceeasi problema persista... Orice informație m-ar ajuta... Nu as vrea sa ajung sa anulez abs-ul. Mulțumesc
Salut! Din cele mentionate, resetul la start al computerului (care include si senzorii de presiune) este OK. Daca din rulaj (fara apasarea franei!) trece in starea de eroare, inseamna ca problema este la senzorii de la roti (citirea impulsurilor), care nu este "sincrona" pe ambele roti (transmite calculatorului ca rotile s-ar roti cu viteze diferite). Deci verifica cei doi senzori sau distanta fata de inelele ABS. Succes!
This a very interesting video.
There is one question I have. How do you remove the ABS unit from the bike? It seems impossible as bolts are not accessible.
Can anyone help?
Even if they are hard to reach, they are not impossible to open. You should see my other video about reinstalling the unit, where you can see where the bolts are (th-cam.com/video/vmqXL_ysD18/w-d-xo.html). Just use the right hex (allen) key (an extension may be needed). If I remember well, there are two bolts each side. Keep the good work!
Hi Christinel, thank you for your very informative video. I have removed and serviced my unit out of an GS Adventure 2003 model, also replacing all of the O rings as you have described with the special requirements to go into brake fluid. However, I have noticed that the rear circuit which has not been functioning was as a result of a mix of the dissolved rubber of the old brakelines wich came out as a thick tar, and the brake fluid. I saw that the pump mechanism on this was badly pitted and corroded
(the Stainless steel plate) , although both the motors I have cleaned as you have showed, and both are working. After reassembly, and with the bleeding sequence, the rear brake worked. However when I went for a test ride, the rear was once again only working on risidual pressure, without servo assistance. I have also noticed that when the bike is switched off the front brake circuit does not brake at all with risidual pressure. Do you have any advice? Do I need to reset something on the Ecu as well? Thanks again for your help and great video.
Adriaan,
I am very happy when I see my video clips help others to solve their ABS issues.
Your case was almost identical to mine.
Regarding your situation, here are my advices:
All the 4 (four) circuits (2 command and 2 power brakes) are completely separate. They do NOT communicate with each other in terms of brake fluid, so you need to bleed them ALL, one by one (first the command ones, then the power ones).
For the command circuits, you do not need to put contact, the are to be bleeded only manually.
For the power circuits you need to put contact, as the pressure will be build in the circuits by the electric pumps.
Now about the residual braking... The system works like this> you put contact, the system makes a check. If the check is OK, both red lights on the dashboard flash slowly, together. If they flash alternately, that is a ABS error and system is left only with residual braking.
After you roll a few meters, the abs wheel sensors send to the unit pulses, which are also analyzed by the unit. If they are OK, the red flashing lights on the dashboard just switch off and the ABS is functioning. If the signals are NOT right (maybe one wheel sensor is disconnected or defective), the ABS switches to "residual braking" and the red lamps flash alternatively, to show you do NOT have ABS (nor brakes, as in residual braking the force you need to apply on levers to feel any braking effect is BIG!)..
I hope this helps...
Keep on the good work!
Chris
cristinel buenas tardes
te pregunto como puedo sincronizar o probar los selenoides que esten funcionando bien ?
Hi, the solenoids are either good, or bad (circuit discontinued)... So, test the windings with a multimeter and see.... If the solenoid goes short, it will blow the power transistor on the board...
Hello, the servo stays on continuously, it does not turn off, I turn on the motorcycle and it starts and it does not turn off, which can be
Thank you
Looks like you have a defective electronic board... The motors are activated through high current transistors. If they get super hot, they might just get shortcuted... and the motors run uncontrolled.
Take the board out and look at it...
If you start the motorcycle, but ABS 's motors stay silent and they run continuously after pulling the brake lever, the issue is elsewhere, probably the pressure sensors...
Good luck!
Hello Cristinel. Very good movies and very nice explained! But of curiosity because you have a Romanian name: are you romanian, or are you ancestors from Romania? I would love to be so! You were telling a nominee that you want to replace the ABS module with one of a newer generation. Do you think it's scary? Do you know how this could be done? I am also interested in having a GS in 2006 with the same type of ABS module. If I can help you with something, please tell me!
Of course I am Romanian ! Changing the ABS unit (because of the bad design of my ABS unit) is a dear project of mine, but the time is not on my side....
Super !!!
Hello i have a bmw r1150rt 2001, pump making noises when ignition turned on. Sometimes pump is activated by pressing front brake but now always. It starts to run Everytime from the rear brake and the pump wont stop running, pump sounds healty. Abs light is flashing and abs doesent work. We changed the brake fluid in the abs unit the right way and it didint help, do you have any tips where to start looking????? Does reading the fault codes help? Thanks for the reply! Edit::: i opened the electic box and the two black things had taken some heat damage. What causes that?
Hi, Zacharias! From your description, I could think only one out of two: either the pressure sensors are giving bad information to the board, or the board itself has a problem... You can start by looking carefully to the board and check the components (mostly the active ones), then change the sensors (taken from onother unit).. See what happens... Good luck!
Hello again, what can cause the transistors to blow?
@@Zacharias1 Mainly for two reasons: a short on the load (the motor), or overheat (overload due to the motor not rotating).
I manage to buy a bmw gs circuit plate. Eith a diffrent number on the cover but it looks the same, have you anyidea if it works with my rt? Thanks for the reply
@@Zacharias1 It will shure do, but:
1. Considering the electronic board from your unit is OK, move it to the new unit (easy job!) Should work...
2. Do the same as above, but you find out that the symptoms are the same... That means the electronic board (from your unit) is bad...
3. You cannot use the new electronic board, as this is coded for the ECU of the donor motorcycle (to recode it only a BMW workshop can do...). But you can use the components to repair the old board if you can identify the bad components...
Dear Cristinel,
I got ABS error on My 2006 R1200GS. Front circuit is is not operational anymore, back circuit still moves brake fluid. Once motor is started by the foot pedal, it never stops unless you turn an ignition off. Seems Servo motors need to be changed (complete flush did not help). ABS Model is FTE S2AB90040. Could you please suggest which motors & brushes are used in the system and possible source, where can I buy them?
Many thanks!
Hi! The motors are all the same for this type of ABS unit... You will not find new ones, as BMW does not service this unit, only replace them ($$$$$...). My suggestion, as I did for myself, is to find on eBay a unit (in any condition), as the probability to have both motors bad is very low... Salvage the motors from that unit and use them in yours... Good luck!
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Dear Cristinel, thank you so much! I have disassembled ABS block per your video and opened servo motors. There has been some dirt, but brushes and collectors are like new. (I noticed that motors are manufactured in 2011, so seem previous owner has changed whole ABS block). I have checked both motors by 12 V battery, both are operational. Could you please suggest what should I check next? what can be a reason?
@@davitpapiashvili6375 Looks like a sensor issue... They are known to go bad and couse the electronic part (board) go crazy.... Again, my advice is to change them from another unit and see if the problem solves...
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Thank you so much dear Cristinel. Could you please specify which sensor? Here in Georgia chances of getting another unit is very low, so in the meantime I am trying find and rectify the cause... Could this sensor issue cause front circuit not to transfer the fluid? Pushing foot pedal while lines were open was moving fluid (Turning Motors), but pushing hand brake was not.
@@davitpapiashvili6375 I suggest you to watch my other video about this i-ABS III type from BMW called "how it works".. You will see there that this system is "integral", that is no matter you pull the hand lever or the foot pedal, BOTH circuits must react as one... Also, in this design, command lines are ISOLATED from the power lines (calipers). With the command line from the front circuit open (at ABS unit), you should also push the brake fluid with the lever... otherwise, not (it's a closed circuit, ONLY for command...)
Hello. The pressure sensor of the front circuit shows me an error. Can I replace such a sensor by taking it from another ABS unit. Are these sensors the same?
Andrei, yes, the sensors in this kind of unit iABS III are all the same, so you can take it from another unit (which you can buy cheap if it has another issue). There is a sensor for the command circuit, and one for the power (servo) circuit. I guess you are referring to the sensor from the power circuit. They are technically equal, but the length of the ribbon cables are different. I hope that helps ...
Best regards,
Chris
@småfix & sånt Yes.
Buna ziua,sunt interesat de reparatia unui ABS identic cu al dvs.Ma puteti ajuta,va rog?
Bineinteles! Cat pot... Care este problema?
Excellent video. Thank you. However, I need help. I marked the position of the pumps, but not good enough. The only factory identifying marks are dots on the side of the pumps. I don't see any corresponding marks on the body. Or, it would help if you could tell me which holes on the body are IN and OUT of the body. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It might be useful info: the company that makes the motors K.A.G. appears to be an active business and sells the motors for these units. I am also interested in any info on rebuilding parts. Also for those interested there is a Polish company that advertises on French Ebay that appears to sell a real nice ABS elimination package. Freight costs from USA make it questionable from here. Thanks
Hi, Joe! To be sure, if you could PM me with pictures of the parts, it would be easier... In my video I pointed out the reassamble position of the motor unit (pump+motor). Just verify that the two inlets of the pump correspond to the two holes in the housing and the motor electctric terminals are in the presented position. Sometimes a bad motor must be replaced, like in my video (collector and brushes worn out, sealing ring not sealing anymore...).
Chris, have you heard of a company that rebuilds these ABS units. Thanks
Yes, in fact I did... but only two... One is in US, www.modulemaster.com, but as far as I know, they suspended repair for this ABS model due to lack of components. The other is in Germany, www.RHelectronics.de, they can repair it and send it back, but it's not cheap (about half of a new one).
Hi, Cris, thank you for sharing. Out of curiosity, what would you do with the pump /generator module that was worn and how would you get the ABS functional again?
Easy: save it for parts... you'll never know when you you need one...
As for how to make it functional again, first you need to identify the defective part(s) and replace it/them.
I mean in terms of this video. What did you do with the bad module? Save it for parts/supplement another bad module? Just had a 2nd generation module go bad (2008 R1200GS w/76k miles). I sent the module to a rebuilder.
and at the End , where did you get a new Pump Motor ?
Exactly from the other unit you see on video. That is why a spare unit of the same design is useful, even if it is broken... :)
Hello Cristinel Petrescu !! I live in Brazil and found your video very interesting, my bike BMW K1200R year 2005 with 10,000 miles presented problems in the ABS part number 34517698296 I bought the bike and I want to tidy but I came across very high value you have any idea how I can solve the question ? thankful
If your unit is an ABS III, that's the reason is so expensive to find a substitute... Also, the reason me and others tried to sort this out by themselves... Welcome in the club! In my videos I give some hints for repairs, but only if you consider you can take the chances...
Grateful for the return, in my case ABS and very little different, what I realized is that in 2005 BMW released version II of the same model of bike, all the same and looking at the parts catalog changed only the ABS model the which characterizes to my understanding that had failed in the old design of the ABS, to make a recall they preferred to launch a new version of the bike .. In Brazil with all taxes, the ABS costs $ 5,500 dollars, value greater than the Bike. A US company is developing the tool to do the repair, I think by June it will be ready and will charge $ 750.00. modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs3/
Abs.
Hehehehe... We know that one.... They did it long time ago and then gave up...saying they will do it again soon...which never comes... So, you have just two alternatives: either switch on "classic", that is no ABS, or repair it (if you have technical skills)... I have never heard somebody buying it as new... too expensive.. You might find, though, a good unit from another bike (same ABS model), just change the "top" with the electronic board, and voilla-la! You have a working ABS unit!
Good Morning Sir. Where i can to take KIT rubber for this pump? rubber resistence abrasion Oil pression Dot4?
You must use (look for) EPDM rubber. It's the best to stand brake fluid. I made that clear in another video I uploaded, named "sealing parts".
Good afternoon I have an ABS module FTE S2AB90039 of a BMW R1150 R and I drip hydraulic under the module, it works but when I lose the hydraulic failure, I know that a repair kit is sold but I can not get them.
I do not think it's from the unit... More from the pipe's connection to the unit... They have a small sealing ring that can brake and than you can loose brake fluid when you pressurize the circuits.
No, you'll never find a "repair kit", as, by the book, the module is NOT to be opened or serviceable.... We do it because the huge cost of a new unit...
Cristinel. I just took another look at it. Appears that the pump would intake from the reservoir through the 2 small holes. but then the larger holes that have O rings are 180 degrees apart. Doesn't make sense. Thanks
In my video you see the pump disassambled. The intakes are the four side holes (where are also two round holes for the two long bolts) and the exits are both holes sealed with orings. Exits then come together in the housing (the power brake chamber).
Cristenel, thanks for your reply. The pump did what it looked like but was a little strange.I can't figure out any way to upload anything to you. I wanted to share a picture of the label on the motor before the brake fluid ate the info. Here is some of the info someone may need (looked on the web as though it can be ordered);
K.A.G.
?appelweg 4, 30179 Hannover
Typ M42x30/ I+G
Spannung: 12v
Dr?hzahl: 5450 min-1 being 18,0 Ncm
Best. Nr.y. 220217g
03/05/07. 769428
Made in Germany
crazy Joe , I posted an answer to that question. Both holes with Orings are exits, they both come together in the housing in the power servo chamber. So, it makes perfect sense...
If you want to send me a message and/or pictures, better use email, that is"pe.cristi" at gmail.com. The pump is not strange at all and is the least part to be broken. My advice is not to acquire a new motor, but buy a cheap (defective) unit of the same generation (ABS III or i-ABS I) and you'll have the parts you need. Try eBay... It's almost impossible to buy a unit with both motors defective and the price will be the same (beside that, you'll have other spare parts that might be usefull...). All the i-ABS version I (ABS III) units use the same motors, so the labels is not something to focus on.
fire in ABS module on my k1200lt 2007
Fire? Could be a short in the power circuits, even the windings in the motors... Salvage from another unit what is burnt...
I did not know BMW used in 2007 still the integral III ABS unit...
Buna seara,un nr de tel,va rog!Multumesc
Imi pare rau, dar nu pot sa fac public telefonul... Raspund insa cu placere la intrebari pe subiectul clipului...
Multumesc,sunt interesat de reparatia unui ABS identic cu al dvs.Ma puteti ajuta?
@@cristinelpetrescu1081
Am acelasi ABS ca al dvs. si am ceva probleme,. Ma putețiajuta va rog cu reparatia lui,contracost,va rog.Daca imi lasati o adresa de mail,putem comunica mai usor.Multumesc@@cristinelpetrescu1081
Buna ziua,cum pot lua legatura cu dvs pentru o problema legata de ABS la un BMW,va rog?
@@cristinelpetrescu1081
Intreband direct....