Hello, good afternoon and thank you for your video, it is very helpful for those of us who have this problem. I would like to ask you a question in case you can help me please. I have already cleaned the module and I would like to test it before mounting it on the motorcycle, I know the positive and negative, but would I know which cable powers the front ABS motor? When I mounted it on the motorcycle, when I pressed the front brake, the engine did not sound, but it did sound when I pressed the rear brake. I would be very grateful for your help. thank you very much for your work
Hi, Alfonso! The circuitry is symetric. Look closer to the electronic board and the wires to each motor come on the same side where the motor is. Most important is that BOTH motors work at the SAME time, no matter which brake lever is active (hand or foot). That is why this unit is called "integral ABS". The fact they do not react as they should, means the ABS unit has problems... I would check the microcontact from hand switch...Or even the connector of the unit (the contacts)... I hope you will sort it out...
Salut! Nici nu s-au gasit vreodata!.... Din perspectiva BMW unitatea ABS nu trebuie reparata, ci inlocuita ($$$$).... Noi, muritorii de rand, preferam sa incercam s-o reparam.... Iar senzori poti gasi cumparand unitati dezafectate (functionale sau nu...) si folosind piesele lor...eBay e un loc bun de cautare...
Dear Mr. Petrescu, many thanks for your excellent video. Have you gone further on the idea of installing the next generation abs in your bike? If so, please, let us know how to do it. Thanks in advance for your answer.
I'm getting code 430B Pressure modulator, Pump Motor Front, so is this referring to the pressure sensors, if not what is it referring to? Thanks in advance. 2004 BMW R1150GS
Hi! The error could be from front power circuit with no pressure... The sensor works.... Just the motor does not spin or the pump is broken (more likely the motor's brushes are worn out).. If you try to repair, follow my video up to opening the motor and you will see... I suggest getting first a "donor" unit of same kind to have spare parts.... Good luck!
dear sir I've been watching your videos since my gs 1200 2005 started having strange brake behavior and I really could use your advice. everything to this day works fine on the abs but she started losing a very small amount of fluid though the abs unit overfill and now, after 2 years she empties overnight the front brake tank. everything goes out through the abs overfill. what do you think could be the problem? best regards
Very helpful videos, thank you. At 4m 51s you point out a metal ring which if removed allows parts and springs to escape. I seem to have a rod, a spring and a stepped piece (on each circuit). Can you clarify where these pieces go. I think the rod goes in the side hole and the spring followed by the stepped piece go in the top hole.
Frankly, I did the video long time ago and I do not remember their positions. But I remember they are from the command circuits, for circulating the brake fluid through the relief valve back to the reservoir. I will look for my "demo" unit to open it and see what is the set up for those parts, and post it here.
Hi Cristinel, great videos, all of them. I have 2005 K1200S and my rear brake pump actually seized and cracked that star shaped piece that rotates. I got the second hand unit today and will try to make it work. I believe I've heard you saying that the original 'computer' (printed circuit board) should be kept because if using new computer, it will throw an error and will need resetting by BMW. Is that true? I guess two sensor cables will have to stay with the new unit while other four( 4x motor and 4x solenoid) are attached to the old PCB. what is your take on that?
Your case is easy to fix.. Just pull out from the donor unit one motor - it has the pump attached (the pump is the "star shaped piece that rotates") and put it in your unit... nothing else (if no other issues)... Yes, if you change the board, this new board must be paired (by software) with the data bus of your bike, that is other way it will not exchange data on the bus with other devices (tacho, brake lights, cruise control) and all these will not work anymore... And guess who has the only programming stations?....right! BMW service! and for some $$$... So, as long as your board is OK, keep it! I did not really understand your question about the sensor cables... Can you rephrase it?
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Thanks Christinel, I did not want to dismantle completely the ABS module I purchased on eBay just to extract the pump. I tried the motors before fitting and both were good and pumps running. I only switched the PCB (kept my old PCB) and after bleeding and running the ABS (stationary) I did not get the fast flashing red light. I'll ride the bike tomorrow to test the brakes/ABS on the road. The pressure sensor cables (flat ones) with square black and white multi pin connectors have to remain on the spare ABS module that I purchased on eBay and plug into my PCB. I really got inspired by your videos. If I did not find that information on internet, I would not have attempted to dismantle the original ABS module and purchase spare/used one in an attempt to repair mine. My rear brake was always pretty weak. I only use rear brake on traffic light at an incline, otherwise I only use front brake. When I opened up the motor/pump to find out why the motor is not running, I found that one of the nine pins was dislodged and badly scored the pump casing. The metal plate was found with pittings as if it was corroded or something, the star shaped impeller (I think it is impeller) was cracked. When I removed the impeller and pins, assembled everything back the motor was running smooth, but pump was obviously not pumping any longer. If you are interested I can send you the photo of the damage I found. I guess I'll need your email address.
@@petarlolic6881 Nice work! And pump failure is very uncommon, but not impossible. No wonder not to have rear brakes with a bad pump... And at this ABS unit type, it does not matter if you use hand brake or foot pedal, the system activates BOTH power circuits (front 60% and rear 40%), but with a bad pump, that (rear) circuit was almost inexistent... Changing the boards is very straight forward, just keep track of the connectors to reconnect them in the same position, no pins skipped... Wish you all the best with the road test!
A good friend of mine warned me about the whizzy brakes, now I know why!!! The design of the servo brake system is faulty and no I have no plan to repair the unit. I will convert to conventional brakes using the parts from a non-abs R model. The rear cylinder and flex line will be replaced and the front distribution manifold and flex lines will be replaced. I am astonished that there has been no recall mandating the replacement of servo brake system at BMWs expense.
Hold your horses! You do not need to replace anything to change to conventional brakes! You need just to REMOVE some lines and make 2 (two) small lines. I have made a video on this. Look for it!
The lines are overdue for replacement anyway, by using the oem non abs parts a mechanic will be able to sign off as complying with none abs oem hydraulic configuration.
Appreciate a lot your tutorials. How is that possible , after bleeding all brake circuits - both control (command) and both power ones - the front brake fixed itself , I mean still works after braking hard but the rear servo assist stops ? As long as the pressure sensors are the same for front/rear ( I suppose , I saw only 2 ) , where could be the fault ? I noticed that ABS doesn`t work on rear wheel , it stays blocked when braking hard and rear servo stops . Before bleeding front servo stopped as well but changing the brake fluid fixed it.
Hi! There is a perfect logical explanation to that: the unit measures pressure in each circuit and, if one of those is not right (as it should be), the unit "switch off" ABS assistance on that circuit. The big issue with locking the wheel when braking can happen only once (hard braking) - I explained in my video why... The unit should switch to "residual braking" after that. If the wheel remain locked, then must be another issue - in the piston area/return valve - the servo build pressure, but cannot release it. Also check release valves in the command circuit (sometimes they jam). Good luck!
Thanks for your answer . As long as after a hard braking only rear servo stops sometimes, I guess it might be a fail of the rear solenoid - electromagnet to retract the piston in the rear power circuit in order to release the high pressure trough that valve. But this seems to be an electric/ electronic issue , so why changing the fluid fixed the problem in the front circuit which is working fine since ? :) What is the role of that `release valve` in the command circuit ? I found that part called metering cylinder , and have no idea what is doing . Do the brake fluid from all circuits communicate directly somehow ? Or is completely separate in each circuit ?
@@szilardvasiliu3938 About the self-repair of front circuit after purge and bleed> The channels for passage of brake fluid are very thin, and it is common that they might be clogged with residue (from wear of moving parts, in time). Probably after changing the fluid, that obstruction was removed, and the system returned to work normal. About the locking of rear caliper> Told you, the high pressure built is not released... Reason? Multiple (I indicated some)! You have take one by one and analyze it... Good thing> the unit is symetrical, so you can swap pieces used for the front circuit with the ones used for the rear circuit. If the fault moves to the other circuit, you have the culprit! Pressure sensors> they are 4 (one for each independent circuit), not 2, but you see only 2 "blocks", as there are 2 sensors in a block. Of course, when you change a "block", in fact you change 2 sensors at once. One block serves either the 2 command circuits, or the 2 power circuits. And last, yes, ALL 4 circuits are separated (isolated in terms of brake fluid) - 2 command and 2 power - they do NOT communicate with each other (or they should not, if sealing are OK...). I hope this helps you, Chris
Cristinel Petrescu dear Mr Chris, on my K1200gt 2006 I have got error “too high pressure in rear braking circuit”, I am going to disassemble the module this weekend. I assume it’s a fault of pressure sensor. The question: “ is it possible to replace pressure sensors from other dead unit?”
Hallo Cristinel .i think the Point up 24:00 in your Video is exactly the Problem wich i have now in my Bike since 2 Days . a K 1200 GT . Diagnostic sayd : Comand Circuit 15 Bar .. Power Circuit 70 Bar .in the Front Wheel Circuit . Becourse of this to high pressure in the Power Circuit the Computer decided to release the Pressure and only Rest Break Function is on .my Workshop sayd a Complet new Unit is needed and it will cost 2400 Euros ..Did you have a Idea to fix this Problem cheaper ?i mean that my Problems came after a Hard Break .... Is the Power Circuit Pressure really to high ... or did the Sensor only think it ?What is exactly the Damage in this Area what makes this Problem ?Maybe you have explained it in this Video , but my English is to bad that i maybe overheard it ...
Hallo, Meier, sorry for the late answer... My best guess is that the pressure sensor in the power brake circuit is defective and should be replaced. This is why I bought two other units (defective or not well maintained) to have spare parts for my unit... :) I was looking for that diagram, but I could not find it anymore.. I remember very well it was in a German Forum... Good luck with it!
Hi Cristinel, very informative tutorials! I would be very interested in a link to the document you are refering to in your video?
Hello, good afternoon and thank you for your video, it is very helpful for those of us who have this problem. I would like to ask you a question in case you can help me please. I have already cleaned the module and I would like to test it before mounting it on the motorcycle, I know the positive and negative, but would I know which cable powers the front ABS motor? When I mounted it on the motorcycle, when I pressed the front brake, the engine did not sound, but it did sound when I pressed the rear brake. I would be very grateful for your help. thank you very much for your work
Hi, Alfonso! The circuitry is symetric. Look closer to the electronic board and the wires to each motor come on the same side where the motor is. Most important is that BOTH motors work at the SAME time, no matter which brake lever is active (hand or foot). That is why this unit is called "integral ABS". The fact they do not react as they should, means the ABS unit has problems... I would check the microcontact from hand switch...Or even the connector of the unit (the contacts)... I hope you will sort it out...
Hi Cristinel and thanks a lot!
Salut .. nu se gasesc senzori aia ceramici de pressiune pe nicaieri de cumparat pentru noi muritori de rand ?
Salut! Nici nu s-au gasit vreodata!.... Din perspectiva BMW unitatea ABS nu trebuie reparata, ci inlocuita ($$$$).... Noi, muritorii de rand, preferam sa incercam s-o reparam.... Iar senzori poti gasi cumparand unitati dezafectate (functionale sau nu...) si folosind piesele lor...eBay e un loc bun de cautare...
Dear Mr. Petrescu, many thanks for your excellent video. Have you gone further on the idea of installing the next generation abs in your bike? If so, please, let us know how to do it. Thanks in advance for your answer.
I did not have the time for that project... Maybe in the future... I still have the bike, the issue is still there, so I did not give up.... :)
Nice video's you have there. Many thanks !!! could you please tell us where you have found the diagram? or share the pdf ? thanks in advance (y)
Not sure... That was a long time ago... May be from a forum (I did a lot of research on internet at that time...)
see www.motorroller-info.de/html/abs_bmw.html
I'm getting code 430B Pressure modulator, Pump Motor Front, so is this referring to the pressure sensors, if not what is it referring to? Thanks in advance. 2004 BMW R1150GS
Hi! The error could be from front power circuit with no pressure... The sensor works.... Just the motor does not spin or the pump is broken (more likely the motor's brushes are worn out).. If you try to repair, follow my video up to opening the motor and you will see... I suggest getting first a "donor" unit of same kind to have spare parts.... Good luck!
dear sir
I've been watching your videos since my gs 1200 2005 started having strange brake behavior and I really could use your advice. everything to this day works fine on the abs but she started losing a very small amount of fluid though the abs unit overfill and now, after 2 years she empties overnight the front brake tank. everything goes out through the abs overfill. what do you think could be the problem?
best regards
Very helpful videos, thank you. At 4m 51s you point out a metal ring which if removed allows parts and springs to escape. I seem to have a rod, a spring and a stepped piece (on each circuit). Can you clarify where these pieces go. I think the rod goes in the side hole and the spring followed by the stepped piece go in the top hole.
Frankly, I did the video long time ago and I do not remember their positions. But I remember they are from the command circuits, for circulating the brake fluid through the relief valve back to the reservoir. I will look for my "demo" unit to open it and see what is the set up for those parts, and post it here.
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 That would be great.
Hi, I have found it in a forum long time ago... Can't remember exactly where...
Hi Cristinel, great videos, all of them. I have 2005 K1200S and my rear brake pump actually seized and cracked that star shaped piece that rotates. I got the second hand unit today and will try to make it work. I believe I've heard you saying that the original 'computer' (printed circuit board) should be kept because if using new computer, it will throw an error and will need resetting by BMW. Is that true? I guess two sensor cables will have to stay with the new unit while other four( 4x motor and 4x solenoid) are attached to the old PCB. what is your take on that?
Your case is easy to fix.. Just pull out from the donor unit one motor - it has the pump attached (the pump is the "star shaped piece that rotates") and put it in your unit... nothing else (if no other issues)...
Yes, if you change the board, this new board must be paired (by software) with the data bus of your bike, that is other way it will not exchange data on the bus with other devices (tacho, brake lights, cruise control) and all these will not work anymore... And guess who has the only programming stations?....right! BMW service! and for some $$$... So, as long as your board is OK, keep it! I did not really understand your question about the sensor cables... Can you rephrase it?
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 Thanks Christinel, I did not want to dismantle completely the ABS module I purchased on eBay just to extract the pump. I tried the motors before fitting and both were good and pumps running. I only switched the PCB (kept my old PCB) and after bleeding and running the ABS (stationary) I did not get the fast flashing red light. I'll ride the bike tomorrow to test the brakes/ABS on the road.
The pressure sensor cables (flat ones) with square black and white multi pin connectors have to remain on the spare ABS module that I purchased on eBay and plug into my PCB.
I really got inspired by your videos. If I did not find that information on internet, I would not have attempted to dismantle the original ABS module and purchase spare/used one in an attempt to repair mine. My rear brake was always pretty weak. I only use rear brake on traffic light at an incline, otherwise I only use front brake. When I opened up the motor/pump to find out why the motor is not running, I found that one of the nine pins was dislodged and badly scored the pump casing. The metal plate was found with pittings as if it was corroded or something, the star shaped impeller (I think it is impeller) was cracked. When I removed the impeller and pins, assembled everything back the motor was running smooth, but pump was obviously not pumping any longer. If you are interested I can send you the photo of the damage I found. I guess I'll need your email address.
@@petarlolic6881 Nice work! And pump failure is very uncommon, but not impossible.
No wonder not to have rear brakes with a bad pump... And at this ABS unit type, it does not matter if you use hand brake or foot pedal, the system activates BOTH power circuits (front 60% and rear 40%), but with a bad pump, that (rear) circuit was almost inexistent...
Changing the boards is very straight forward, just keep track of the connectors to reconnect them in the same position, no pins skipped... Wish you all the best with the road test!
A good friend of mine warned me about the whizzy brakes, now I know why!!!
The design of the servo brake system is faulty and no I have no plan to repair the unit.
I will convert to conventional brakes using the parts from a non-abs R model.
The rear cylinder and flex line will be replaced and the front distribution manifold and flex lines will be replaced. I am astonished that there has been no recall mandating the replacement of servo brake system at BMWs expense.
Hold your horses! You do not need to replace anything to change to conventional brakes! You need just to REMOVE some lines and make 2 (two) small lines. I have made a video on this. Look for it!
The lines are overdue for replacement anyway, by using the oem non abs parts a mechanic will be able to sign off as complying with none abs oem hydraulic configuration.
Appreciate a lot your tutorials. How is that possible , after bleeding all brake circuits - both control (command) and both power ones - the front brake fixed itself , I mean still works after braking hard but the rear servo assist stops ? As long as the pressure sensors are the same for front/rear ( I suppose , I saw only 2 ) , where could be the fault ? I noticed that ABS doesn`t work on rear wheel , it stays blocked when braking hard and rear servo stops . Before bleeding front servo stopped as well but changing the brake fluid fixed it.
Hi! There is a perfect logical explanation to that: the unit measures pressure in each circuit and, if one of those is not right (as it should be), the unit "switch off" ABS assistance on that circuit.
The big issue with locking the wheel when braking can happen only once (hard braking) - I explained in my video why... The unit should switch to "residual braking" after that. If the wheel remain locked, then must be another issue - in the piston area/return valve - the servo build pressure, but cannot release it.
Also check release valves in the command circuit (sometimes they jam).
Good luck!
Thanks for your answer . As long as after a hard braking only rear servo stops sometimes, I guess it might be a fail of the rear solenoid - electromagnet to retract the piston in the rear power circuit in order to release the high pressure trough that valve. But this seems to be an electric/ electronic issue , so why changing the fluid fixed the problem in the front circuit which is working fine since ? :)
What is the role of that `release valve` in the command circuit ? I found that part called metering cylinder , and have no idea what is doing . Do the brake fluid from all circuits communicate directly somehow ? Or is completely separate in each circuit ?
@@szilardvasiliu3938 About the self-repair of front circuit after purge and bleed> The channels for passage of brake fluid are very thin, and it is common that they might be clogged with residue (from wear of moving parts, in time). Probably after changing the fluid, that obstruction was removed, and the system returned to work normal.
About the locking of rear caliper> Told you, the high pressure built is not released... Reason? Multiple (I indicated some)! You have take one by one and analyze it... Good thing> the unit is symetrical, so you can swap pieces used for the front circuit with the ones used for the rear circuit. If the fault moves to the other circuit, you have the culprit!
Pressure sensors> they are 4 (one for each independent circuit), not 2, but you see only 2 "blocks", as there are 2 sensors in a block. Of course, when you change a "block", in fact you change 2 sensors at once. One block serves either the 2 command circuits, or the 2 power circuits.
And last, yes, ALL 4 circuits are separated (isolated in terms of brake fluid) - 2 command and 2 power - they do NOT communicate with each other (or they should not, if sealing are OK...).
I hope this helps you,
Chris
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 thanks a lot !
Cristinel Petrescu dear Mr Chris, on my K1200gt 2006 I have got error “too high pressure in rear braking circuit”, I am going to disassemble the module this weekend. I assume it’s a fault of pressure sensor. The question: “ is it possible to replace pressure sensors from other dead unit?”
Thanks, thanks, thanks....!!!
Buenas donde se puede conseguir ese esquema e información?
Hi! All I have found is from internet (forums).
@@cristinelpetrescu1081 gracias
Hallo Cristinel .i think the Point up 24:00 in your Video is exactly the Problem wich i have now in my Bike since 2 Days . a K 1200 GT . Diagnostic sayd : Comand Circuit 15 Bar .. Power Circuit 70 Bar .in the Front Wheel Circuit . Becourse of this to high pressure in the Power Circuit the Computer decided to release the Pressure and only Rest Break Function is on .my Workshop sayd a Complet new Unit is needed and it will cost 2400 Euros ..Did you have a Idea to fix this Problem cheaper ?i mean that my Problems came after a Hard Break .... Is the Power Circuit Pressure really to high ... or did the Sensor only think it ?What is exactly the Damage in this Area what makes this Problem ?Maybe you have explained it in this Video , but my English is to bad that i maybe overheard it ...
Hallo, Meier, sorry for the late answer... My best guess is that the pressure sensor in the power brake circuit is defective and should be replaced. This is why I bought two other units (defective or not well maintained) to have spare parts for my unit... :) I was looking for that diagram, but I could not find it anymore.. I remember very well it was in a German Forum... Good luck with it!
Ok Thanks .. i drive with this Unit now …. rhelectronics.de/de/neu-und-gebrauchtgeraete/neue-steuergeraete/rh-second-life-kit-am0/
Hi Cristinel
Curiosity!!! Can I replace the Dot4 brake oil by the Dot5 on the BMW K1200R with ABS?
You should NOT mix Dot4 brake oil with Dot5... Replace is also part mixing... So, the answer is NO...