FREE CRIMPER! First Issue with TS10 Flex Wing! How To Determine Hydraulic Fitting Threads.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- We'll make some hydraulic hoses to fix an issue with my RhinoAg TS10 Flex Wing mower.
Incredible offer from Discount Hydraulic Hose for a Free Hose Crimper with purchase.
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I buy field replaceable fittings from DHH, and also buy my hose in bulk. I use these to make all of my hydraulic hoses. This is a cost effective way of making your hoses. I have never had a field replaceable fitting fail, nor have I had a tech claim the field replaceable fittings were vulnerable. If I had a spare $5K, I would get the deal from DHH. However, for the average tractor pilot, I would make this recommendation. I also buy dual wire 3/8" in bulk. Dual wire is not necessary in many cases, but the cost difference is negligible. DHH has a thread ID guide that is comprehensive. Thanks for turning me on to them.
Cool machine! I’d probably end up buying every fitting except the one I need 🤣
Tim I have in my experience working for a Deere dealership your PTO shaft has a slight twist in it. I've replaced a few of them on batwing mowers. Remove the shaft and safety shield and lay a straight edge along the shaft. It only takes the slightest twist to cause the shaft to do this.
It's kind of a kludge and you'd have to get off the tractor but you could put a ball valve on the mower between the up and down hoses. Valve open the wings float, valve closed for folding. Should be pretty cheap and you have everything you need for making the hoses. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing.
The crimper is a neat tool to have! Great that the two hose set up for the cylinders takes care of the binding issue.
Like to see Rino move the placement of the grease fitting or add a second one. Seems like that would solve the problem. Nice work around on your part.
It's that whole "everything mechanical will eventually fail" bummer it's happening to ya buddy! Stay safe and cool out there!
Great video Tim ! My batwing finish mower is single hose gravity down too.
I like the idea of power up and power down, just not sure I would remember to always put it in float , which I am sure would make for an interesting cut quality. lol
Will be interesting to see what you come up with for your tractors lacking the float function.
Your big tractors have float float function, so power down should work. I am concerned about not having float on mine.
I'm fortunate we have a local store who makes them for me. In a pinch I can go to Tractor Supply Company and pick up any and all fittings. Nice instructional video. Thanks!
Tim it always takes and old farmer to figure out and fix it. Good job brother!
Coolest bi wing Mower I ever saw had a dual front wheel at hitch and duals in rear center. Each wing floated all based upon terrain conditions. Guy could independently raise one side and blades stopped at 15 degrees and keep mowing with center and opposite side.
Owning this mower and have not encountered any issues , but I always appreciate a heads up of what could come . Thanks Tim
That is a nice setup, but speaking from experience you will never have enough different fittings. Inventory of fittings and will creep higher and higher. All of a sudden you will have $8,000 to $10,000 of fittings and hoses sitting on your shelves that you can look at every time you set foot in your shop. Having gone through this once already I think it would be best to really understand threads and fittings but have a hydraulic shop that you can purchase what you need.
Great educational vid on the confusing world of hydraulic fittings.
Be aware that many of the import compact tractors will have metric fittings instead of JIC, ORB, or NPT. I made hoses within a dealership for 40+ years and ran into all sort of strange fittings on some of the European, Japanese, Korean, and Chinese imported tractors. And yes, there is a JIC 45 degree fitting; not very common but I had some Ford tractor power steering lines use them. I always preferred the Weatherhead Coll-O-Crimp system because we did not have to look up and dial in crimp specs and the die collets came in 2 half-moon pieces, which were quick to change out. I agree with your assessment about going with 3/8 inch - 2 wire braid hose (Yes, there is single braid, and 4 wire braid also.). But good information for the average small tractor (under 60 hp) owner out there. I enjoyed watching it. Thank you!
Fantastic info on hydraulic hose making and man that deal sounds tempting!!!
Having your own crimper is so handy. We use to have one that we used with our press. I guess those went away do to safty.
Awesome, thanks for the details. I now have a much better understanding of hydraulic hoses.
Hydraulics are so cool and interesting. Thanks for covering this topic.
Good information Tim
Tim, very educational video. Nice hydraulic setup. I’m going to look into one . Thanks
When I saw the title with the mower picture, I thought it was about a hay crimper. Really wish I could justify having the crimper in my shop, but the rule is that new toys have to at least pay for themselves, and we have a shop in town that is open 7 days a week that will make hoses.
After hours? Maybe you don’t work after hours, I dunno.
@@TractorTimewithTim I work second shift, so my work time is most peoples' "off hours".
I have been told to start two threads back and use yellow (fuel resistant) teflon tape on NPTF. Seems to be working fine.
Thank you. Great tutorial on pipe threads.
Good marketing move by them. Another great video.
Wish everyone would use JIC connectors. Old Kubota tractors can use JIS which are easy to confuse with JIC. Then add in BSPT, BSPP, NPT, metric pipe thread... It can get real tricky to know what you need
The other kind of fitting is FS or face seal. Most of the fittings Deere uses are FS. These have straight thread nuts that pull a two parallels surfaces, the male surface generally has an embedded o-ring. JIC are like Fs but have a conical flare mated connection. There is also JIS which has a 30° flare instead of the 37° JIC flare. Only NPT use a sealant; it's required because the sealing joint is thread that collapse into the mating thread surface as the taper enlargens. You need sealant because it's helical mated surface and it isn't a perfect seal. And it's a thread which are just open space helixes. The threads should collapse into each other and fill the voids, but you don't want to rely on that. You want to fill any voids that may not get filled.
You can divert that “lower” hose oil into case drain and have a float or on smaller tractors may be easier to swap with loader function and use loader up and down to have float when mowing or divert that valve
Nice video Tim. Sure like the thoughts of running that flex wing.
I thought my JD canopy looked good in the box so I have fan BXX10591 ordered from Green Parts. I saved again on shipping by using TTWT.
Thanks!
Very imformative thank you Tim
Great video! Thank you for posting 😀
Thanks for posting! It seems like you would have to be doing a lot of hydraulics work to make that cost effective. It could save a lot of break down time.
Exactly. Breakdown time is the key.
…and this inventory doesn’t go bad, so it doesn’t have to be used immediately.
Just a minor correction, the tool you are measuring sizes with is more correctly referred to as a digital caliper. It slides on the ruler. Micrometers are shaped like a c-clamp with a threaded thimble you lightly tighten until it slides gently on the surface you are measuring.
As for the issue with the wings, I mowed expressways many (okay, 50 plus) years ago and we had trouble with the wings going down. If you hit something hard, it would put a twist in the pto shafts. A wing would come up fine, but then would not go back down, Understand, there has been much improvement in materials and methods since then, but something to consider..
Sounds similar.
Great video!
Great video. It would be nice if you could incorporate a float valve into the cutter hydraulics and it wouldn't matter what tractor you are using.
You will like to have two way hydraulics.... Power up and power down.. enjoyed this... Great Video.... Something wrong with the hitch on the TS-10.... What that us no Clue.. 😮😅
That's an awesome deal, especially when Murphy's law comes into effect!
I think it’s awesome, I love tools and I would be all over it if I didn’t have to finances approval.😂
hope your deck still floats for terrain!
That would be awesome to have but i do up to 1 1/4 inch hoses for the wetline on my truck. I just spent $200 on a 3/4" hose so maybe I'm not as far off from it being worthwhile as i think. We had some problems with our woods batwing mower and have considered doing what you just did
Just add a zerk?
Why go from what could be a FREE fix, cleaning the PTO shaft and lubing, to an expensive fix? Since the wings are meant to float, won't this "fix" be an issue? ETA: I see mentioned the float issue in the end.
We took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly….greased it up..could never get it to slide freely.
Hey Tim, in the spiirt of asking someone experienced and wiser, I'd like to ask your opinion ; In prior videos I'd noticed you using an impact wrench when doing work on tractors etc. So, it got me thinking (as I'm looking at cordless tools, and never used an impact driver/wrench before) ;
How could one determine what Torque one might end up using for DIY around the home, small holding and any future compact tractors?
I guess, simply put; What sort of torque amounts do you find most common with your range of tractors?
I’m kinda ashamed of my answer, but most folks use the old German approach. Gutentight! There is some experience gained from years of mishaps and success. One begins to realize “that bolt is kinda small, it won’t allow much torque, so take it easy”. But I do not use torque specs except in specific instances.
There are approved torque specs for each size and grade bolt which you can lookup online.
Further, the new Milwaukee impacts have Bluetooth, allowing you to set torque specs. However, the impact hammering nature makes this less than perfectly accurate.
Not sure I have helped much. Instead, you have forced me to admit another area where I am less than perfect :-)
I would like to just give you one other idea with your pto shaft problems on your mower. I own a woods mower and I have bent 2 pto shafts now on my mower. I have replaced the slip clutch’s and set them correctly every year but, every now and then I have the splines on the shaft bend and that causes the mower wing to not fold or unfold like you have.
Not really the right way to fix the original problem!!! Still have a sticky PTO shaft!!!!
If the grease comes in at the bottom of the shaft, wont gravity stop it from going up? Could you turn the shafts around? That way whenever it's in the folded position, lubrication has a small chance to cover the whole shaft.
Tim, could you make an H-shaped fitting, where the middle 'cross' section (of the H) is a ball valve and the 2 legs are the Lift and the Lower hydraulic hoses for the wings? So when the ball valve is closed, you can lift and lowers the wings, as you designed since the hydraulic lines aren't connected. Then when you open the ball, the fluid can pass from the Lift side of the cylinder to the Lower side, which should act like a Float setting. At least this make sense to me, Im a Mechanical Engineer, not a Hydraulic Engineer... hah!!!
I was thinking maybe a manually operated inline shutoff valve in-between the the lift and lowering hoses of the would allow the wings to float. Think of the capital H. the uprights on the H is the lift and lowering hoses, and the crossbar on the H is the hose that has the shut off valve. Valve open allows the fluid to flow either direction as the wings float across the terrain. Valve closed allow the wings to be raised and lowered. The only problem is can you reach the valve from the operators seat or do you have to get off the tractor every time you need to raise or lower the wings. Maybe someone makes an electric shutoff valve.
Just my pondering for a quick inexpensive solution to obtaining floating wings!
I have to take my pto shaft apart and grease the entire length of the shaft and put back together to prevent the sticking.
Cant you drill and tap the outer sleave on the shaft to add a second grease fitting?
Well done Tim! I’ve used hydraulics for years and still have to take a picture or a sample to get done what I need. One thing that puzzles me on my 4052R with 4th and 5th hydraulic SCV’s, only the 4th SCV has a float position. Can it be that much more expensive for the float feature? On larger AG tractors all SCV’s have float positions. Just curious. Blessings.
Great information not sure it would make sense for me, but I appreciate the background on the hoses and fittings. One question, I don't see anything on the link or from the video that says when the offer expires?
Not sure on expiration
Tim could you put cup grease on the drive and slide the other one on top to get both pieces sliding back and forth I just have a 6' hog no wing.. be safe and cool.. Steve from WV
Tried it.
@@TractorTimewithTim ok tim
My first thought was to tap another zerk fitting into the dry end of the pto shaft so that you could lubricate both ends with a grease gun.
@@garymeyer3294yes. We took it apart, greased it thoroughly inside and out…could not get it to slide freely. So, already rusted I guess.
Cut 4 to 6 inches off the shaft. Depending on the length now.
A farmer can never have too many hose fittings and hose mark my words 😂
great interesting video :)
If it is a problem with pto shaft then why is it only doing on the one side. But your fix is the way it should have been done from the factory.
To keep cost down they use gravity down,its also so it floats most tractors dont have a 2way float valve .If you take the pto shaft apart use a chip brush and a cheap tub of grease brush it on the shaft inner re assemble .Do it once a year & your good .
What fuel cans do you use ?
I've just bought some military Scepter fuel cans as I've had issues with all the other makes,I've tryed
Vents need to be installed on all the new stuff.
If he had a Massey 1700M or 1800M he would have built in float on the remotes and the remotes can be set to single acting.
I have. Had several 15 ft bush hogs doesn’t make since to spend money adding these hoses the wings will float with the ground in float position!
I think you totally missed the issue. oh well.
If you want to spend the money that’s your choice good luck and will keep watching
Micrometer? You're using a dial caliper
Whatever.
Tim I watch south main auto and he makes me laugh he says crimping wires pouring concrete and sealing threads is the thing that makes every one mad he says I wish I do all three every video because he get so many comments
It's not a perfect way to get float - but.... if you can get the wings past the point of where they hang up on the "down path" then shut off the tractor - Stopping the flow of hydraulic fluid, and cycle through raise/lower on the valve (like removing pressure when removing a loader) gravity will pull them all the way down and once they are down, there will be a very low amount of pressure in both sides of the cylinder creating a bit of a shock of sorts. If the valve is left "closed" once the tractor is turned on, it "shouldn't" get additional pressure from bleeding. It's not a perfect float, but it's better than locking them in place creating the potential for larger pressure spikes on uneven ground.
Not sure I get it. One must allow oil back and forth to the tractor to allow the wings to go up and down as terrain requires.
@TractorTimewithTim if it drains to tank without flow on the other side, it's not going to have pressure and as the raise portion of the cylinder "fills" without a feed itll pull a vacuum. Cycling the valve will allow tank "air" to enter during opposite movements. This will create a small air bubble (likely in just the lines) which will act like a shock absorber, since air is compressible. Give it try, I like eating crow. But... be sure you have a good bit of stored gravity energy left in the down cycle, then lower a few inches, go the other way on the valve, lower a few inches, Go the other way. Till your wings are on the ground fully. Then hold each valve open for a few seconds, then see how it acts when float would be helpful.
@@MakerBreakerFixer I don't think so, Matt. It will not be able to raise because there is no way for the oil to leave the cylinder...it has nowhere to go.
The only way to get float is to have p->a, a->b, b->t AND p->t at the same time. In other words everything open. I have thought quite a bit about this. Without free flow of oil in both directions through both lines, no worky.
I have noticed on the previous video, from the TS10, the left pto shaft is shaking more then the right one ... does that also have something to do with it ?
Interesting.
A float valve on a 1025R that fits in with the electric switch valve controls? Is that possible? That would be awesome!
Not presently available. Unfortunately. I’m still looking :-)
Wouldn’t it be easier to add a grease fitting at the other end of shaft?
I don’t think it would help, honestly. Definitely not now that it is rusted. We took it apart and greased it as best we could…but still could not get it to slide freely.
At what rpm would you engage a 72" finish mower? I also use soft start.
Just fast enough to keep from killing the engine.
I start it now at the lowest it will idle with no issues. But it does seem smoother at 1200.
👍👍
If both sides are the same from the factory and the other side works fine, I believe you're missing something causing that issue. Most average people can't afford that fix.
Most people can't afford $150 for 3 hoses? Whatever. I clearly explained the issue.
The other side has the same type and size pto shaft without issue. It doesn't matter, I don't see any reason to modify the factory design. I would rather find the issue. Modify isn't always the best solution.
@@rayarnett2249fair enough.
@TractorTimewithTim PLEASE don't take me wrong , I love watching the things you do with smaller tractors. One question: When u put pressure to both sides of the cylinder, is it still going to float with the contour of the ground? I would think it would be more rigid.
@@rayarnett2249no worries, Ray.
Yes, you have hit upon a limitation with the TS10 no matter whether we have one-way or two way cylinders.
To use this mower properly, you must run the wings in ‘float’ position via the hydraulic valve.
So, you need a valve which supports float. You can use the loader raise / lower circuit, as it supports float.
0:34 Dave’s not here man
That's not a micrometer, it's a vernier caliper.
🇨🇦👍
Dave's not here, man ............... pffffffffff. ha ha ha
A cruddy commercial?
STOP USING LITHIUM
I no longer watch TTWT videos that don’t involve Dave. Thanks for giving me the nod early on to shut this one down Tim. I’m trying to start an online campaign to change your channel name to Tractor time with Tim, Dave, and Christi . TTWTD&C. JIC should not be your favorite fitting because of cost Tim. It should be your favorite fitting because you can attach and reattach it 1000 times with no thread tape or O-ring damage fyi…
Oh you are being so difficult today!!!