I have lots of gauges and have given up just taking a sipe by eye when I feel the chain needs it the two-in-one is a really good beginner tool and great if just cutting firewood. Thanks for video.
Totally agree with your information,I’ve found that practice makes perfect with these chain sharpeners,found this out the hard way on several occasions.
I have a 2 in 1 sharpener, it works fine on some chains but bad on others. The 2 in 1 rides on the back of the cutter in front of the tooth you're sharpening so if the cutter slopes rearward more than a stihl chain does it removes too much from the depth gauge, if the slope is perfect it works perfect. Oregon .325 semi chisel was the worst, the cutters get quite short at the back and the 2 in 1 took the depth gauges down way too far.
@@nseric1233 I have noticed the same thing on some chains. I will make another part of this on the weekend showing what the 404 2 in 1 does to Stihl 46RS. It's a wild ride holding on after using it! Oddly it works better on Oregon chain in 404 than on the Stihl chains
I have a 2/1 and don’t care for it. It does not take the drags ( rakers) down enough. You and everyone seems to love them. I would pay someone to take mine!
@@alittleofthisandalittleofthat Honestly I own 2 of these and don't use either of them. The reason for recommending them is they are the most idiot proof way of sharpening chains for people that are new or don't care enough about learning the details of how to sharpen chain
@@fabzacres-blackcat kind of defeats the purpose of the guide though. I still think they are a good thing for most people, just wanted to show what's happening with it
@@SawChainTheories I’d respectfully disagree … the guide is going to allow most folk to achieve better results sharpening the tooth proper as the height is set and 2-handed operation afforded. The raker gets set conventionally using a progressive gage so as the tooth wears back a specific angle 📐 is maintained throughout the chains life. New .025 may be acceptable, by the time the witness marks are a whisker away that same chain may need .045 to cut satisfactorily. Thats another issue with the 2-1 , once you get past 1/2 tooth the tool removes excessive raker , almost dangerous if ask me. The push/pull reactive forces exceed what most would consider safe. It only takes a few minutes to adjust the rakers anyhoo and you know they are set properly to each tooth. If you’re clever you can get at least a sharpening or 3 in before you need to touch the rakers again anyways 😉
@@fabzacres-blackcat The shape is easier to use.... I'm on the fence with this one. I get it but don't know if I would recommend it. More people can probably use one of these than the other types of file holder
@@SawChainTheories my point is that the tool as purchased can remove excessive material from the raker especially as the tooth itself gets filed back. There’s much greater risk to the operator of something going wrong with an overly aggressive chain. Leaving 1/2 of the life of a chain on the table is unacceptable to me. Just my 2c experience- not trying to start a ruckus
@@fabzacres-blackcat I'll try it on some spare links and try to measure what happens as it keeps going further back. You could very well be right, I don't have a lot of experience with these guides so I'll look into it some more
@@gavinhankinson9158It’s interesting to learn and most people find the double bevel files easier to use. Just keep an eye out for some cheap full chisel chain to practice on and be prepared to waste a chain or 2 learning the process. Once you get the hang of filing with them, its easy but it is a steep learning curve at the beginning.
I have lots of gauges and have given up just taking a sipe by eye when I feel the chain needs it the two-in-one is a really good beginner tool and great if just cutting firewood. Thanks for video.
Totally agree with your information,I’ve found that practice makes perfect with these chain sharpeners,found this out the hard way on several occasions.
Very good test and visualization!
I have a 2 in 1 sharpener, it works fine on some chains but bad on others.
The 2 in 1 rides on the back of the cutter in front of the tooth you're sharpening so if the cutter slopes rearward more than a stihl chain does it removes too much from the depth gauge, if the slope is perfect it works perfect.
Oregon .325 semi chisel was the worst, the cutters get quite short at the back and the 2 in 1 took the depth gauges down way too far.
@@nseric1233 I have noticed the same thing on some chains. I will make another part of this on the weekend showing what the 404 2 in 1 does to Stihl 46RS. It's a wild ride holding on after using it!
Oddly it works better on Oregon chain in 404 than on the Stihl chains
I have a 2/1 and don’t care for it. It does not take the drags ( rakers) down enough. You and everyone seems to love them. I would pay someone to take mine!
@@alittleofthisandalittleofthat Honestly I own 2 of these and don't use either of them. The reason for recommending them is they are the most idiot proof way of sharpening chains for people that are new or don't care enough about learning the details of how to sharpen chain
That's an interesting observation. I find my 2in1 doesn't take the depth gauge down enough.
Just take the center file out and set the rakers using a progressive gage
@@fabzacres-blackcat kind of defeats the purpose of the guide though. I still think they are a good thing for most people, just wanted to show what's happening with it
@@SawChainTheories I’d respectfully disagree … the guide is going to allow most folk to achieve better results sharpening the tooth proper as the height is set and 2-handed operation afforded. The raker gets set conventionally using a progressive gage so as the tooth wears back a specific angle 📐 is maintained throughout the chains life. New .025 may be acceptable, by the time the witness marks are a whisker away that same chain may need .045 to cut satisfactorily. Thats another issue with the 2-1 , once you get past 1/2 tooth the tool removes excessive raker , almost dangerous if ask me. The push/pull reactive forces exceed what most would consider safe. It only takes a few minutes to adjust the rakers anyhoo and you know they are set properly to each tooth. If you’re clever you can get at least a sharpening or 3 in before you need to touch the rakers again anyways 😉
@@fabzacres-blackcat The shape is easier to use.... I'm on the fence with this one. I get it but don't know if I would recommend it. More people can probably use one of these than the other types of file holder
@@SawChainTheories my point is that the tool as purchased can remove excessive material from the raker especially as the tooth itself gets filed back. There’s much greater risk to the operator of something going wrong with an overly aggressive chain. Leaving 1/2 of the life of a chain on the table is unacceptable to me. Just my 2c experience- not trying to start a ruckus
@@fabzacres-blackcat I'll try it on some spare links and try to measure what happens as it keeps going further back. You could very well be right, I don't have a lot of experience with these guides so I'll look into it some more
Nice video what is the make of the flat file
@@gavinhankinson9158 it's a Pferd double level file. Got to wear down the middle somehow to get your value out of them so they get used for everything
@SawChainTheories I'm thinking about trying to square file on the stihl 261c-m just to see how hard it is
@@gavinhankinson9158It’s interesting to learn and most people find the double bevel files easier to use. Just keep an eye out for some cheap full chisel chain to practice on and be prepared to waste a chain or 2 learning the process. Once you get the hang of filing with them, its easy but it is a steep learning curve at the beginning.
They feel so fast because they are so fast. Just come out and say you’re a husky guy and don’t like aggressive chain
@@saltymofo5870 you got me, that's why I own 1 Chinese husky clone and a pile of Stihl saws