vgamesx1 Nah, I meant that you didn't knew that similar category youtubers usually comment on each other's channels to advertise. it's pretty common to notice if you have no life and are on youtube 24x7 :(
@@staror890 I took the panel from a Dell Inspiron 15R (5520). But the actual model or part number of the screen I really don’t know. I had to throw it away because I needed the LED strip for another project.
I'm in the process of building one like this (actually I've already build it but I want to frame it like a fake window) and my observations are as follows: -LEDs are very cold white, much cooler than overcast sky or flash LED in phones to the point that I'm thinking about adding some warming filter to fix that -Every manufacturer uses different nomenclature, in Samsung pad marked as "VLED" next to LED tape was a wrong one and only soldering directly to the fuse (next to the laptop connector marked VBL) resolved issue. VBL (Samsung), VLED (LG) and VBLP (AU) were correct ones. Enable and PWM are usually next to each other. -Align all screens in same direction if you keep diffusor layers. Otherwise you may end up with one "window" getting darker and other going brighter and vice versa when changing angle of view -Some screens look bad without diffusors, you may see LEDs on edge or strange patterns on back plastic part -Some of those diffusing layers collect fingerprints like crazy, messing up fresnel lens effect. I guess that in a long run there shall be some clear plastic screen in front of the screen. -Those screens tend to operate from around 6V and well over 12V too. I'm currently running them at 15V with no issues. They auto adjust current, so brightness stays the same. -They are bright, but not super bright. 4x 15.6 inch draw around 10W total (around 1A at 10V) but give slightly less light than 5W corn LED bulb.
My panels doesn't have a VLED contact point, it just says VLED next to the fuse shown in the video, where do I solder it? I don't know how to "solder it to the fuse directly"
I know I know... you have been bathed in praise often enough but seriously, I just cannot stop myself from joining the club. Your videos are cheerful and explain practically everything we need to know without unnecessary details or becoming too technical. This project sounds like amazing fun, thanks for sharing!
The amount of broken laptop screens I've chucked away over the last 2 years must be close to around 50 - 60 ! Got 10 broken laptops sat in cupboard and gonna use these screens for drop lighting on my media centre wall :D
Pulled a 55" Samsung TV from the dumpster. Screen and plastic frame was smashed but other internals were still good. Man, this thing is bright! 😎 Not sure what I'm going to do with it but just had to try after watching your channel.
I used the internal power supply with everything else other than the led unplugged, just as a test. I eventually removed all the LEDs and boards, hot glued a long strip of RGB lights that change with music and made it into a large hanging color changing disco light!
A TIP FOR ANYONE TRYING THIS: After soldering and testing for functionality, put GOBS of hot glue over the connections (and about an inch leading up to them) to secure the wires and prevent the tiny, delicate copper pads from being irreparably ripped from the surface of the circuit board. IF this disaster does strike, you may be able to use the next nearest (even smaller) pads "downstream" from the correct ones. Ask me how I know...
@@antonfilimonov9131 Sorry, I didn't notice your comment sooner. I don't think I'll be making a video of the results but, basically, I followed the instructions in this video. I honestly can't remember if I used my multimeter to find the next copper pad, or if I just prodded around a powered wire to random pads (because: what's the worst that could happen if it's already trashed lol) then just soldered to a working pad and added lots of hot glue. I wired in a switch, connected it to an old 13.5V power brick (can't remember where I salvaged it from) and used some thin, stainless steel fishing leader wire to hang the screen from a nail that was already randomly sticking out of the wall above and to the side of my work desk in my rental apartment. I turned the screen vertically to hang in "portrait mode" and with the stainless wire I made a loop joining the two top corners and a loop joining the two bottom corners of the screen, such that the top edge leans away from the wall and projects its light downwards somewhere around a 45° angle. It's not the most elegant, nor the brightest light fixture, but it does help illuminate my desk without taking up space on it. I hope your project worked/works out. Cheers.
Thank you for this tutorial. I own three 15.6 led panels, I decided to pair two of them to do this. FYI (board tags in order) : - AU Optronics : LED_EN, LED_PWM and V_LED - LG : LED_EN, PWM and VLED
Hi, there is a TK component on pads near VLED on my LG panel, do you happen to know whether I should solder there or find and empty pad? There is really nothing empty near the word VLED
Oh my God you have the best ideas ever! You know that feeling you get when you immediately want to purchase something after seeing a really good advert for it, even though you'd never heard of it before and don't necessarily need it? That's the feeling I get when I see these videos, that I NEED to build it! Never stop making these awesome videos!
Holy F. Do you really experience that feeling from advertising? Turn in your man card, child, and turn decision making over to someone in your life with those skills. Hmmm... sounds uber critical, but you will thank me in the long run. 🤔🤷♂️👍
@@JohnFelipo unhappy to watch failure happen, I suppose. Maybe even 5 years after the fact 🤔 Hope you have been enjoying your consumer programming in the meantime. Well spotted 🤔👍
I was given a broken LCD/LED monitor. I removed the cracked LCD panel, the board that drives it, the speakers, buttons, connecting cables, and the outer diffusion layer. The LED-driver circuit was on the same board as the start-up circuit. I burnt out the start-up circuit that makes it switch itself off (because there no input connected to it), using a 12v DC adapter. Now it lights up by default using the LED strip and driver circuit already in it and stays lit. It also runs on a 12v DC power supply input. No extra parts were needed and I didn't have to do any soldering. To finish it off I just put a switch on the power cable. It is really bright, and does look very similar to daylight, lighting up the whole room. I imagine that if it was on the ceiling inside a campervan it would be quite indistinguishable from a skylight.
I have a dark room and I've been dreaming of such thing! You're such a smart man. One of those videos when I wish I could klik thumbs up multiple times:D
LCD layers are transparent? Oh man, imagine making a smart window or something like that using the LCD layers placed up against the glass. Displaying the time, news, perhaps using it as a computer monitor... Next project?
[noise of Chinese workers running to they workplaces to make the cheapest one] :) Now seriously :). A LCD screen let light pass when they show white color, and block it to show black, so if some special app is designed with white background and black text, for example, they could in theory show the time. Maybe the other polarising layers from behind should be kept too maybe
they are still hard to see without a backlight. What you are thinking about is magic mirror, a famous DIY advanced project. I have yet to see a window blind implementation of it where a window is replaced with an LCD layer , when you want some privacy the LCD displays a dark brown or dark blue scren so that the window is harder to see through.
I had this Innolux screen from a bit more recent lenovo laptop, and LED_EN as well as PWN voltage had to be 3.3V and allowed 5V max. So the version of 6V was already too much. I had to calculate a voltage divider to create 3.3V, which required 500 and 200 ohm resistors. There was also an extra power supply marked VCCS, which needed 3.3V as well, but unlike the others its limit was only 3.6V max. And finally, the PWN point was nowhere to be found. I had to connect the PWM voltage wire straight to the pin at the flat cable connector. So some screens are bit more complex these days.
Thanks for this! I didn't need to connect to VCCS but your resistor values got my screen to stop blinking. (For anyone else's reference, I'd say it was 3 or 4 blinks per second)
Okay, so I really admire this project and want to do it myself. I burned through like 4 panels (which are tougher to come by then expceted, and I live in a big city), the golden contacts on the boards either rip off too easily, or are tough to to get the solder to stick (even a proffessinal at work has had his difficaulties). Takind the panels apart is not too easy as well, putting them back togehter a bit tricky aswell. The video makes it look quite simple. Dont want to hate, as said I really like this vid and the project but be prepared to encounter some problems =)
if you're a painter then you should have a steady-enough hand to handle simple soldering. Every step of this project is documented, so you can just copy what Matt is doing. You don't need to be tech savvy to imitate.
Great video, I just used it to convert 2 old cracked screens I was going to throw out... Im using them as under shelf lighting in my workshop they work well.
Sometimes, the LVDS connector has LED_EN and PWM pins sitting right next to each other. You can short them and then only provide power to either or attach a wire to those two pins directly. Thanks for the tutorial!
@@benjamin_markus yeah I also had a lot of fun trying to recover tiny pin points that were accidentally yanked out, that's why I try to avoid those as much as possible
DIY Perks: I know that this is a super old video at this point. But I've just pulled down a damaged laptop screen and giving it a go. My pads are as follows: VLEDIN, LED_EN, and PWM_LED. Just in case you want to update the description still!
If MacGyver had a sidekick, it would have been you for sure man. I want to know how you learned this stuff!!!! AAHH. Home made VR Headset anytime soon? Thanks for posting this. Very inspirational your videos are.
I went a did this without the diffusion layers and put a layer of clear acrylic over the said screen instead. It’s BY FAR the CHEAPEST and BEST light table I’ve ever owned as an artist. I’m never going to trust an art store that just sells over priced electronics.
Got myself a screen! In passing I visited a pc repair shop in leicester and asked if they have any broken screens. He then just gave me one for FREE. Now all i need is a power supply and the resistors. PS. the solder contacts are tiny!
@@solidu5s he wired them together in parallel so you need the same power supply and resistor that he used i am trying to figure out what resistor i need tho
This is a pretty neat tutorial! Bookmarked for future use & will probably be on the lookout for cheap cracked/smashed/faulty screens, because at the end of the day, I'm not too fussed about the LCD part, just the backlight :)
I broke some connections on the PCB connected to the screen, but then I discovered that it's not necessary at all. You can simply attach a power supply directly to the LED stripe at the bottom of a screen. Only thing that changes is that now you need 24 V. This worked in my case at least, I didn't test it with other screen backlights.
Just a heads up for anyone looking to actually try this, any type of LED/LCD screen emits massive amounts of blue-spectrum light that usually gets filtered before actually being displayed into your eyes (usually a polarization filter in front of the screen or back light inside the monitor itself). Removing this filter, and using the screens as described in this video can cause unbelievably severe headaches that last much longer than a usual migraine, and can persist if the screen are used long-term. Check the spectrum of light being emitted from any monitor before removing any filters, and be safe :)
hell crap XD i was just going to try this out, never thought of the blue light and its filters though. Thanks for the tip ! u just saved lots of wasted hard work for me xd
If you check out the video again, you'll notice that he does recommend leaving the filters on the LED, although the reason he gives is that it gives a nice 3D shadow effect. Leave the filters on and you should be fine.
If you leave the filters then you won't have the problem you are describing. Furthermore if you are paranoid you can always buy filters for screens and mount them in there.
All of your videos are very good and informative. Never knew we can make a window lamp from broken screen. I got one broken monitor screen. I will try with that one. Thanks for upload.
+TrocaderoKillen That was my thought exactly! Maybe a potmeter of sorts? Or would that just cause malfunction and just act weird like LED/halogen lamps on a 'normal' dimmer? Great video btw! It just keeps on being refreshing how you are able to come up with stuff like this!
+TrocaderoKillen You could use a PWM pulse generator connected between the 6v and the PWM solder pad. Something like this: www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Programmable-RGB-LED-Dimmer-PWM-Control-Board-3-3v-5V-voltage-New-/381292961830?hash=item58c6d4e026:g:DcQAAOSwpdpVeqwB I do not guarantee it would work, but the theory is correct :)
Hope someone still reads this: I wonder how the whole thing should be connected to the power if i only want to use one single screen. Should i still use an 12v/1.5A adapter and the two 180 Ohm resistors? Sorry I'm kind of new to this hobby. I'm also wondering if it would be possible to connect the resistors directly to the adapter, since i could get my hands on one without plug-ending. Thanks in advance!
The 12V will stay the same, since you only have a single screen 1.5A are not necessary, as he said the LEDs are very efficient. The screen I had only required 275mA per its datasheet. However more doesn't hurt, so if you have a 12V/1.5A adapter, it should be fine. Regarding the two resistors, they build a voltage divider to get 6V from the 12V supply. Here it is important, that they have the same value to split the 12V in half. So yes 180 Ohm are fine, but another value would also be ok, as long as both are the same. I used 130 Ohm for mine, because I had them lying around. You can connect the resistors directly to the adapter, but you will have your wire fixed to the screen. Soldering some kind of plug in between makes the whole thing more easy to use. If you connect them directly, make sure that the adapter is fully discharged before soldering.
@@ProMoonLight well this is very help full It would of been more helpful before I spent 15 dollars on one with 2 amps for my one screen so what you are saying is that a 1 amp 12 volt power supply will work for only one screen if so I am very confused with how this works
Very soon yeah - had some stuff that I've had to do the past month which has meant that I haven't been able to work on any videos, but now that it's all done expect some good ones! :)
This is very clever, low cost and simple. I think a larger floor standing light perhaps 2 panels wide and 4 panels long would look very elegant. Very inventive, thank you,
One Idea I had about that voltage divider and pwm thing: Wouldn't it be a good idea to use an arduino (e.g. Uno) instead? It converts the output voltage automatically to 5V and the PWM pins can be used to dim the light via a microcontroller. Not only that you could do fancy time dependend variation, choosing a different controller might even give you bluetooth or wifi support.
Btw: "representing the human race to an advanced civilization" Do you mean presenting the human race to an advanced civilization or represent the human race? Pick one.
would the colour temperature given off by the laptop screens be suitable for video? I was thinking the same as this project is cheaper and easier than the led strip light panel
Really glad I came across this project, I have access to a great number of cracked screens so I might very well give it a go. In theory you could even build a large frame to house it all and make it that extra bit sturdy.
No, the backlight is not powered by the enable or pwm pin, it's only controlled by them. In this case the pwm has 100% duty cycle (connected to dc) , if you want to dim the backlight, in this panel you switch on/off the backlight rapidly.. Better monitors marketed as flicker free are using DC dimming instead of PWM approach. Pwm introduces flickering which can be bothersome.
Just took apart an old monitor. Unfortunately it had fluorecent light in it, which arent very efficient, but I got them working and they are very, very bright. There are four little bulbs and they really do look like someone just took a full size fluorecent lamp and used a shrink ray on it! The bulbs are facing into a 10mm thick Plexiglas panel with a very nice looking, etched pattern on it to distribute the light. And then 4 different foils ontop to equal out the brightness everywhere! I think I'll use the bulbs in my workshop as tiny miniature Lights. They look really awesome :D
Our minds seem to think alike. I'm the only person I've met before seeing your video by chance that repurposes old laptop screens as a stable platform to breath new life into something new it couldn't do before... One thing I realized a long time ago was the value of old laptops that don't work or have broken screens is that their screens make wonderful bases (frames) for building my own custom solar panels. I used the laptop because with the screen (newly redone with solar cells instead of LCD panel) still attached was an easy way to directly aim the solar panel adjacent 90º straight at the sun. You discovered the value of a laptop's broken screen as merely a frame and backboard for your LED light panel creation. But I think you should leave them attached to the laptop! Why? If you should reattach the screens after you've made the light panels out of them back to the hinge(s) on the laptop it came from, you can then use the old battle axe as convenientl sufficiently weighted base which can not only hold your LED light panels upright without having to wrangle up any additional custom hardware to hold and the light off the floor, but because laptop screens stay open at a wide range of user-selectable angles anywhere from ~5º to ~180º typically, you can use this arrangement to easily aim and hold in place for you the direction and vertical angle of your new flat light. And two more things about sticking with the original computer as a base to leave the light panel attached to is the laptop base also allows you to fold your light panel back down against your dead laptop and snug it up parallel to the base which would protect your LED light from accidental bump or drop breakage during transport or moving. mAs well as it just really makes for an interesting conversation piece and its a unique piece of hybrid reuse recycling to be proud of. it to the base the closed position thus the remaining half of the laptop protects the shape and integrity of your LED light panel while its being transported and these can be used to aim light in outdoor areas without much worry of them blowing over because of that weighted old laptop base you kept them attached to. Why get rid of a good thing? Keep the rest of the laptop as a nice wighted bases to hold the screens pointing in any direction from horizon to virtually straight up, protect them from blowing over in the wind, and protect them from abuse in transport. There is also a way you can (if the laptops battery, power supply and charge controller circuits still work, use the existing power-switch, power adaptor, and battery to not only power the light with a high-quality DC battery-filtered (no AC ripple riding on DC) clean battery backed-up source of power or to power the light outdoors where there are no immediate power utilities nearby. and you can even reuse the laptop to do all this AND charge your cell-phone even from the existing USB port on the laptop which tend to work still wether an OS even loads up or not on the laptop. Even if the motherboard or CPU on the laptop is pretty much hosed on the laptop, chances are its original 19.5 Volt power-supply, the backlight on the screen and sometimes even the battery are still usable and useful features you can use to make yourself a folding battery-powered cell-phone charging, light angle and direction-holding "flat-top panel-light!" Think of the possibilities. You can set the laptop on a high shelf and angle the screen at the ceiling for nice indirect diffuse ambient lighting for subtle movie scenes or relaxed office work. BONUS: Heck if you really want to go all out, intercept the audio signal to the laptop speakers right at the start of the first amplifier, break the circuit connection to the main board solder in your own stereo wires and run them to the back or side panel where the headphone hack is and break the jack connections to the mainboard and wire the cable to the jack. Now you can plug-in an iPod or your cellphone and use it to play music as well. (You may have to additionally solder in a potentiometer to the feedback resistor or logic line that controls the audio amplifier create a new control for setting the audio volum if the laptop does not have a manual volume dial switch (most don't) so you can control the volume yourself in cause the default volume is set to 0 digitally at power by the laptop hardware. Go that far? Heck I would to make a nice multifunctional piece of hardware that does all the tricks you want it to. Whatever helps you have to carry less hardware around that can be done all in one box just by making subtle alterations to the functionality or connectivity of what's already there is a good thing worth pursuing!
I have two questions: 1. Can we additionally hook it up with Arduino and control its spectrum? 2. Can we also build it in such a way to be used as Camera flash? I would love to know both the above please.....waiting!
Is there a good video that explains volts, watts, and ohms? I've never taken a class that taught me them and I've always wanted to learn what they are and how to properly do the math with them for these kinds of projects.
Cool, thanks for the quick response. If you ever need an any graphics for the show let me know, I'm interested to help the show, especially on 'green' projects. Cheers! www.delaneydigital.com/
DIY perks Can you tell me why you say it have to be laptop screens? I have a bunch of old computer monitors that i would like to use for this project, if it is possible.
Awsome, thanks for this Tutorial!I immediately took apart my old Laptop, making the Light really only took me about 15 Minutes :D So cool.But the Board is making noise when its beeing used. I have 12.05 V and 0.368 A, wich is 4.4W. Everything should be fine there. The only diffrence is that i had to use two 300 Ohm Resistors, as I did not have any 180 Ohm around. Any ideas on how to fix this Problem? Thanks :)
+DIY Perks You found the Problem! Thanks ;) To round things up i'd love to use the Laptops power adaptor, however it has 19V and I'm afraid that a Voltage regulator might cause the same issue again. Any ideas?
Many years later... the times they are dark and light is what I need right now. But that damn board doesn't tell me where PWM and LED_EN is. So I found them another way: looked up the specification of the panel, where I found the connector described with all signals. Tested continuity on all pads and found both within a minute. Let there be light!
Hi I have an old laptop that doent work anyway it was like 10 years old or so anyway I was wondering could you make a simple tutorial on how to turn this into a second monitor with out buying any extra parts so just using the laptop please.
+Mohammed Qureshi I'm sure if you use Google you will eventually end up with something. And no, you probably can not use the laptops own controller board.
+Mohammed Qureshi You will most likely not be able to do this if it is broken, because then the parts you need are most likely damaged. But if you get it working, let me know! Best of luck to you my good sir!
I found every contact point except the ground pad. The closest thing I found is the GND pad but I'm not sure if I should use that one. Does anyone have a similar problem?
I connected everything and unfortunately it's not working :/ I'm not sure what I did wrong but I will try again as soon as I lay hands on another display.
+ArcSmith Try on the big unnamed pad first and if it doesnt work then try it on the gnd pad. If you can, try it out without soldering first. I had my brother help me and we just put the wires on the pad and watched if it worked and then we soldered if it did
The end result looked pretty damn good! Thumbs up!
+GreatScott! Heh funny seeing you here. :)
+vgamesx1 You don't really get youtube don't you?
Thanks very much! :)
ps Why? because I simply wasn't expecting a youtuber I like to watch another youtuber that I also like..?
Dude don't be an arse..
vgamesx1 Nah, I meant that you didn't knew that similar category youtubers usually comment on each other's channels to advertise. it's pretty common to notice if you have no life and are on youtube 24x7 :(
One year ago I broke two panels trying to do this. Yesterday I was able to complete this project successfully!
hey would you be able to tell me the model number of the screen you got to work with this please ?
@@staror890 I took the panel from a Dell Inspiron 15R (5520). But the actual model or part number of the screen I really don’t know. I had to throw it away because I needed the LED strip for another project.
i probably had the same monitor as you. how did you find the ground?
@@oshapermadi usually ground is a big copper square. Also there are some pads labeled “GND” or “Ground”
just broke 2 panels I guess I have to wait a year
I'm in the process of building one like this (actually I've already build it but I want to frame it like a fake window) and my observations are as follows:
-LEDs are very cold white, much cooler than overcast sky or flash LED in phones to the point that I'm thinking about adding some warming filter to fix that
-Every manufacturer uses different nomenclature, in Samsung pad marked as "VLED" next to LED tape was a wrong one and only soldering directly to the fuse (next to the laptop connector marked VBL) resolved issue. VBL (Samsung), VLED (LG) and VBLP (AU) were correct ones. Enable and PWM are usually next to each other.
-Align all screens in same direction if you keep diffusor layers. Otherwise you may end up with one "window" getting darker and other going brighter and vice versa when changing angle of view
-Some screens look bad without diffusors, you may see LEDs on edge or strange patterns on back plastic part
-Some of those diffusing layers collect fingerprints like crazy, messing up fresnel lens effect. I guess that in a long run there shall be some clear plastic screen in front of the screen.
-Those screens tend to operate from around 6V and well over 12V too. I'm currently running them at 15V with no issues. They auto adjust current, so brightness stays the same.
-They are bright, but not super bright. 4x 15.6 inch draw around 10W total (around 1A at 10V) but give slightly less light than 5W corn LED bulb.
Did you use identical panels? Is the color temp the same between the four?
Yes, an unnaturally cold white
Cheers!
My panels doesn't have a VLED contact point, it just says VLED next to the fuse shown in the video, where do I solder it? I don't know how to "solder it to the fuse directly"
The Fuse will usually be marked TX or something and usually looks brighter/different compared to the active and passive SMD components
I know I know... you have been bathed in praise often enough but seriously, I just cannot stop myself from joining the club. Your videos are cheerful and explain practically everything we need to know without unnecessary details or becoming too technical. This project sounds like amazing fun, thanks for sharing!
The amount of broken laptop screens I've chucked away over the last 2 years must be close to around 50 - 60 !
Got 10 broken laptops sat in cupboard and gonna use these screens for drop lighting on my media centre wall :D
Cool! Got any pics/vids?
I did this and it worked like a charm. Got it done and running in just over an hour. Got my sub!
What resistor did you use?
Are u using one adapter or four different adapter for each plz tell
Did you use cool or warm colour LEDs?
@@lukewilkinson3778 I just used the laptops leds
@@moinkhan10 im confused too
This is actually excellent to fake sun in places that don't get a lot of sunlight in winter, would help with SAD I imagine!! Love this so much!
Pulled a 55" Samsung TV from the dumpster. Screen and plastic frame was smashed but other internals were still good. Man, this thing is bright! 😎 Not sure what I'm going to do with it but just had to try after watching your channel.
nice!
How did you get it to light up?
I used the internal power supply with everything else other than the led unplugged, just as a test. I eventually removed all the LEDs and boards, hot glued a long strip of RGB lights that change with music and made it into a large hanging color changing disco light!
@@htdcntrctr9458 noice
A TIP FOR ANYONE TRYING THIS: After soldering and testing for functionality, put GOBS of hot glue over the connections (and about an inch leading up to them) to secure the wires and prevent the tiny, delicate copper pads from being irreparably ripped from the surface of the circuit board. IF this disaster does strike, you may be able to use the next nearest (even smaller) pads "downstream" from the correct ones. Ask me how I know...
Could you share your results?
Ya I was doing this and ripped a pad off luckily there was a fuse to connect to
@@antonfilimonov9131 Sorry, I didn't notice your comment sooner. I don't think I'll be making a video of the results but, basically, I followed the instructions in this video.
I honestly can't remember if I used my multimeter to find the next copper pad, or if I just prodded around a powered wire to random pads (because: what's the worst that could happen if it's already trashed lol) then just soldered to a working pad and added lots of hot glue.
I wired in a switch, connected it to an old 13.5V power brick (can't remember where I salvaged it from) and used some thin, stainless steel fishing leader wire to hang the screen from a nail that was already randomly sticking out of the wall above and to the side of my work desk in my rental apartment. I turned the screen vertically to hang in "portrait mode" and with the stainless wire I made a loop joining the two top corners and a loop joining the two bottom corners of the screen, such that the top edge leans away from the wall and projects its light downwards somewhere around a 45° angle.
It's not the most elegant, nor the brightest light fixture, but it does help illuminate my desk without taking up space on it. I hope your project worked/works out. Cheers.
@@crackedthieves I'm glad to hear you got it back up and running.
Do I need to use a different resistor for one panel? I dont want to burn the backlight.
Thank you for this tutorial. I own three 15.6 led panels, I decided to pair two of them to do this.
FYI (board tags in order) :
- AU Optronics : LED_EN, LED_PWM and V_LED
- LG : LED_EN, PWM and VLED
Hi, there is a TK component on pads near VLED on my LG panel, do you happen to know whether I should solder there or find and empty pad? There is really nothing empty near the word VLED
Oh my God you have the best ideas ever! You know that feeling you get when you immediately want to purchase something after seeing a really good advert for it, even though you'd never heard of it before and don't necessarily need it? That's the feeling I get when I see these videos, that I NEED to build it! Never stop making these awesome videos!
Holy F. Do you really experience that feeling from advertising? Turn in your man card, child, and turn decision making over to someone in your life with those skills. Hmmm... sounds uber critical, but you will thank me in the long run. 🤔🤷♂️👍
@@sp10sn you seem unhappy
@@JohnFelipo unhappy to watch failure happen, I suppose. Maybe even 5 years after the fact 🤔 Hope you have been enjoying your consumer programming in the meantime. Well spotted 🤔👍
Cool - I've been wanting an LED light tracing box - with this I bet I can make my own!
Now i never need to leave my room!
I was given a broken LCD/LED monitor. I removed the cracked LCD panel, the board that drives it, the speakers, buttons, connecting cables, and the outer diffusion layer. The LED-driver circuit was on the same board as the start-up circuit. I burnt out the start-up circuit that makes it switch itself off (because there no input connected to it), using a 12v DC adapter. Now it lights up by default using the LED strip and driver circuit already in it and stays lit. It also runs on a 12v DC power supply input. No extra parts were needed and I didn't have to do any soldering. To finish it off I just put a switch on the power cable. It is really bright, and does look very similar to daylight, lighting up the whole room. I imagine that if it was on the ceiling inside a campervan it would be quite indistinguishable from a skylight.
This is simply genius. Also I love the way you explain things and your sweet voice. I haven't built this yet and I already feel relaxed.
Such a COOl idea! Can't wait to engineer this thing a bit further even with a wooden frame to make it really look a regular window.
are you done?
I was thinking the exact thing. : )
Earthgal im done. i used one screen as a lamp above my table. check out my ig @rish_kenobi
I have a dark room and I've been dreaming of such thing! You're such a smart man. One of those videos when I wish I could klik thumbs up multiple times:D
This would work well for studio lighting too!
so theres only the one power adapter running all four screens? and you just run the four wires off it to each of the screens?
LCD layers are transparent?
Oh man, imagine making a smart window or something like that using the LCD layers placed up against the glass. Displaying the time, news, perhaps using it as a computer monitor...
Next project?
[noise of Chinese workers running to they workplaces to make the cheapest one] :)
Now seriously :). A LCD screen let light pass when they show white color, and block it to show black, so if some special app is designed with white background and black text, for example, they could in theory show the time. Maybe the other polarising layers from behind should be kept too maybe
they are still hard to see without a backlight. What you are thinking about is magic mirror, a famous DIY advanced project.
I have yet to see a window blind implementation of it where a window is replaced with an LCD layer , when you want some privacy the LCD displays a dark brown or dark blue scren so that the window is harder to see through.
Can't we use sunlight as a backlight :D :D
th-cam.com/video/DS2gupWJ9Vo/w-d-xo.html
Slot machines are already doing this.
Nice modification. Although when i try to relax, i usually turn off any displays in front of me, instead of turning 4 of them on.
I had this Innolux screen from a bit more recent lenovo laptop, and LED_EN as well as PWN voltage had to be 3.3V and allowed 5V max. So the version of 6V was already too much. I had to calculate a voltage divider to create 3.3V, which required 500 and 200 ohm resistors. There was also an extra power supply marked VCCS, which needed 3.3V as well, but unlike the others its limit was only 3.6V max. And finally, the PWN point was nowhere to be found. I had to connect the PWM voltage wire straight to the pin at the flat cable connector. So some screens are bit more complex these days.
Thanks for this! I didn't need to connect to VCCS but your resistor values got my screen to stop blinking. (For anyone else's reference, I'd say it was 3 or 4 blinks per second)
If the LCD is broken in the right way, leaving them in could also look pretty cool.
Obviously, but interesting.
+TMTGAU Modern art basically.
It's all trash but this trash would look rad.
Exactly, it would be less about light and more about a cool thing to hang in your house.
This is a high level channel: clear and stylish explanations, together with full effectiveness. Thums up
Okay, so I really admire this project and want to do it myself. I burned through like 4 panels (which are tougher to come by then expceted, and I live in a big city), the golden contacts on the boards either rip off too easily, or are tough to to get the solder to stick (even a proffessinal at work has had his difficaulties). Takind the panels apart is not too easy as well, putting them back togehter a bit tricky aswell. The video makes it look quite simple. Dont want to hate, as said I really like this vid and the project but be prepared to encounter some problems =)
Make Sure to put hot glues on the connections after soldering them so they won't ripp off
_"Hey buy this 400$ lightbox for your professional videos and ..."_
Lol nope gotta take a few spare old broken laptop monitors! :D
light balance may be (more than) a bit off.
light balance may be (more than) a bit off.
+Shreyas Rao just fit a gel into it behind the diffusion layer to fix that.
These could also be used for food or product photography.
That's what I am going to do!
He he! yes.
Need more LED in my diet.
That's exactly what I thought!
It wasn't very tasty, but it did work well for product photography.
And also for viewing negatives.
i wish i was tech savvy to make this, this would help so much when i'm painting
if you're a painter then you should have a steady-enough hand to handle simple soldering. Every step of this project is documented, so you can just copy what Matt is doing. You don't need to be tech savvy to imitate.
Great video, I just used it to convert 2 old cracked screens I was going to throw out... Im using them as under shelf lighting in my workshop they work well.
Could you share your results?
Sometimes, the LVDS connector has LED_EN and PWM pins sitting right next to each other. You can short them and then only provide power to either or attach a wire to those two pins directly.
Thanks for the tutorial!
Matvey Ovinov argh, this is exactly the thing I should’ve done instead of trying to solder to both connectors and as a result frying both as well
@@benjamin_markus yeah I also had a lot of fun trying to recover tiny pin points that were accidentally yanked out, that's why I try to avoid those as much as possible
It would be awesome if you mande an updated version of this :0
The VLED may also be called and VCC. Your welcome :)
DIY Perks: I know that this is a super old video at this point. But I've just pulled down a damaged laptop screen and giving it a go. My pads are as follows: VLEDIN, LED_EN, and PWM_LED. Just in case you want to update the description still!
VLEDin won't power up the led panel u should use instead LEDin
@@christm45 I don't see ledin
Could you share your results?
I love your channel mate, I'm so happy I decided to go back and watch all of your videos!
These DIY projects are never getting old 🥳👍
You could add a wooden frame around it to make it look like a real window :D
+iooi Maybe cut a hole in it and a hole in the wall behind it for ultra realistic
+iooi ... Sarcasm...
erekllama
Ikr
+Manny Calavera and hang a thin white curtain, which would defuse the light with a natural look
+Manny Calavera Brilliant
If MacGyver had a sidekick, it would have been you for sure man. I want to know how you learned this stuff!!!! AAHH. Home made VR Headset anytime soon? Thanks for posting this. Very inspirational your videos are.
I Think the same when the video almost end and he is sit int he floor. =)
Would be really great if you actually could do this full-time!
Had this video saved for years and finally to the point in my basement remodel where I’m gonna build a few to make my home office less of a cave
I went a did this without the diffusion layers and put a layer of clear acrylic over the said screen instead. It’s BY FAR the CHEAPEST and BEST light table I’ve ever owned as an artist. I’m never going to trust an art store that just sells over priced electronics.
Got myself a screen! In passing I visited a pc repair shop in leicester and asked if they have any broken screens. He then just gave me one for FREE. Now all i need is a power supply and the resistors. PS. the solder contacts are tiny!
Can I power just one with the powersupply or would I need different resistors if I'm using just 1 screen.
@@solidu5s he wired them together in parallel so you need the same power supply and resistor that he used i am trying to figure out what resistor i need tho
these videos are soothing and you're very polite haha
This is a pretty neat tutorial! Bookmarked for future use & will probably be on the lookout for cheap cracked/smashed/faulty screens, because at the end of the day, I'm not too fussed about the LCD part, just the backlight :)
I broke some connections on the PCB connected to the screen, but then I discovered that it's not necessary at all. You can simply attach a power supply directly to the LED stripe at the bottom of a screen. Only thing that changes is that now you need 24 V. This worked in my case at least, I didn't test it with other screen backlights.
You can also use these panels for grow lights.
Ok I did this bought 4x 5k iMacs and took the screens off thx I love it
Idea is really awesome, I wonder how I'd be more difficult if I'd want to regulate intesity of brightness...
Just find yourself a dimming-curcuit and hook it up to the PWM contact.
Fantastic........all those years i have been throwing screens away i could have made the most amazing Saturday night fever dance floor!!!
I damaged four screens before I could correctly solder without destroying pads, but I finally got it! Thanks for the vid. Hope to see more.
Just a heads up for anyone looking to actually try this, any type of LED/LCD screen emits massive amounts of blue-spectrum light that usually gets filtered before actually being displayed into your eyes (usually a polarization filter in front of the screen or back light inside the monitor itself).
Removing this filter, and using the screens as described in this video can cause unbelievably severe headaches that last much longer than a usual migraine, and can persist if the screen are used long-term. Check the spectrum of light being emitted from any monitor before removing any filters, and be safe :)
hell crap XD i was just going to try this out, never thought of the blue light and its filters though. Thanks for the tip ! u just saved lots of wasted hard work for me xd
If you check out the video again, you'll notice that he does recommend leaving the filters on the LED, although the reason he gives is that it gives a nice 3D shadow effect. Leave the filters on and you should be fine.
If you leave the filters then you won't have the problem you are describing. Furthermore if you are paranoid you can always buy filters for screens and mount them in there.
sponsored by Windows xD
Groan ! 🙄🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂🤣🤣🤪🤪🤪
Remind me to Windows 10 default Hero wallpaper
Windows XD? Did this come before or after XP?
Nah. Linux be in here faking windows theme for free
i have one more idea to use these lights as a three point lighting for video production.
thought the same
cool :D
+anurag mehta These are very useful for my closeup shots I use a similar DIY solution.
+X-BASS :)
All of your videos are very good and informative. Never knew we can make a window lamp from broken screen. I got one broken monitor screen. I will try with that one. Thanks for upload.
Thanks! It's amazingly powerfull!
And for the records vled can also be vled_in 😉
Ooh thanks. Now I'm left with where the ground is xD
Hi! Is there any way to dim the light?
+TrocaderoKillen put a curtain over it, or add more diffusers
+TrocaderoKillen That was my thought exactly! Maybe a potmeter of sorts? Or would that just cause malfunction and just act weird like LED/halogen lamps on a 'normal' dimmer?
Great video btw! It just keeps on being refreshing how you are able to come up with stuff like this!
+TrocaderoKillen I guess you could build a cirquit which puts out a PWM signal, then connecting it to the PWM contact on the panels cirquitboard
+TrocaderoKillen You could use a PWM pulse generator connected between the 6v and the PWM solder pad. Something like this: www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Programmable-RGB-LED-Dimmer-PWM-Control-Board-3-3v-5V-voltage-New-/381292961830?hash=item58c6d4e026:g:DcQAAOSwpdpVeqwB
I do not guarantee it would work, but the theory is correct :)
+TrocaderoKillen you could try to get a pwm dimmer and use the pwm pin to do the dimming... :D
Hope someone still reads this:
I wonder how the whole thing should be connected to the power if i only want to use one single screen. Should i still use an 12v/1.5A adapter and the two 180 Ohm resistors? Sorry I'm kind of new to this hobby. I'm also wondering if it would be possible to connect the resistors directly to the adapter, since i could get my hands on one without plug-ending. Thanks in advance!
Uli yes, the voltage has to be the same. He connected the four panels parallel so the voltage is not changing.
@@5h4rk1337 maybe you can help me i know i need 2 180 ohm resistors but what about wattage and everything else?
@@5h4rk1337 so the wiring is parallel to lit all of the panel?
The 12V will stay the same, since you only have a single screen 1.5A are not necessary, as he said the LEDs are very efficient. The screen I had only required 275mA per its datasheet. However more doesn't hurt, so if you have a 12V/1.5A adapter, it should be fine. Regarding the two resistors, they build a voltage divider to get 6V from the 12V supply. Here it is important, that they have the same value to split the 12V in half. So yes 180 Ohm are fine, but another value would also be ok, as long as both are the same. I used 130 Ohm for mine, because I had them lying around. You can connect the resistors directly to the adapter, but you will have your wire fixed to the screen. Soldering some kind of plug in between makes the whole thing more easy to use. If you connect them directly, make sure that the adapter is fully discharged before soldering.
@@ProMoonLight well this is very help full
It would of been more helpful before I spent 15 dollars on one with 2 amps for my one screen so what you are saying is that a 1 amp 12 volt power supply will work for only one screen if so I am very confused with how this works
Are you thinking of uploading a new video anytime soon? Dying for a new project to be blown away by.
Very soon yeah - had some stuff that I've had to do the past month which has meant that I haven't been able to work on any videos, but now that it's all done expect some good ones! :)
Cracked an old screen open that I had laying around and it has exactly the same board. Today is my lucky day
my best creative youtuber ever
0:50 I have one laptop exactly like that and guess what, I just removed the lcd screen! xD
Mine is also same but I'm watching in it
Brilliant!
As an extension to this project, how hard would it be to add a PWM controller to the light so that the light would become dimmable?
Four years later I have the same question
What a fantastic idea and look. Just what i need for my dark unit. Im not at all sure i could make it, zero experience, but, wow, it looks sp great.
This is very clever, low cost and simple. I think a larger floor standing light perhaps 2 panels wide and 4 panels long would look very elegant. Very inventive, thank you,
One Idea I had about that voltage divider and pwm thing: Wouldn't it be a good idea to use an arduino (e.g. Uno) instead? It converts the output voltage automatically to 5V and the PWM pins can be used to dim the light via a microcontroller. Not only that you could do fancy time dependend variation, choosing a different controller might even give you bluetooth or wifi support.
Someone give this man a beer 🍺
You look like the guy that I would trust in representing the human race to an advanced civilization...or the first android...
MikeyWuzHear true that!
he looks like chris martin
yeah he's got android face
lol, yeah, base that on APPEARANCE. smh
Not the brightest LED in the panel are you? lol..
Btw: "representing the human race to an advanced civilization"
Do you mean presenting the human race to an advanced civilization or represent the human race?
Pick one.
Thanks for the info - I've actually been looking into making a compact DIY light table for tracing drawings :)
This would actually be really cool to adapt into a soft box for video production..
would the colour temperature given off by the laptop screens be suitable for video? I was thinking the same as this project is cheaper and easier than the led strip light panel
danobot You could always put a white sheet in front of it to make it a more basic white tone.
Really glad I came across this project, I have access to a great number of cracked screens so I might very well give it a go. In theory you could even build a large frame to house it all and make it that extra bit sturdy.
How did he setup the wiring for the three other monitors?
can you add a potentiometer before that PWM ? just to have a variable brightness ?
No, the backlight is not powered by the enable or pwm pin, it's only controlled by them. In this case the pwm has 100% duty cycle (connected to dc) , if you want to dim the backlight, in this panel you switch on/off the backlight rapidly.. Better monitors marketed as flicker free are using DC dimming instead of PWM approach. Pwm introduces flickering which can be bothersome.
You could put it onto the wires going from the board to the backlight?
That looks brutally convincing.
Just took apart an old monitor. Unfortunately it had fluorecent light in it, which arent very efficient, but I got them working and they are very, very bright. There are four little bulbs and they really do look like someone just took a full size fluorecent lamp and used a shrink ray on it!
The bulbs are facing into a 10mm thick Plexiglas panel with a very nice looking, etched pattern on it to distribute the light. And then 4 different foils ontop to equal out the brightness everywhere!
I think I'll use the bulbs in my workshop as tiny miniature Lights. They look really awesome :D
"Do it yourself, he said, it would be easy he said"
Me: ha... ha..... ha..........
@Deplorable Cat me, an over ambitious minor who is broke af
hehehe it is pretty tough. The solder becomes little beads and at times runs all over the board LOL
@@brotherzak7 Then you can not do it. You dont have the money.
Could you do the same with a big led TV? One is standing in the trash room.
th-cam.com/video/8JrqH2oOTK4/w-d-xo.html
@@brandon_nope was looking for a comment like this😂😂😂
@@brandon_nope That video involves changing the leds. I want to use the original power supply and leds. Im assuming the procedure will be the same.
@@LEO-xo9cz did you ever find a video for your tv project? I'm looking for one myself. One without replacing the LEDs.
@@pp7915 Hi Phillip. After much mucking about I figured out i just need an 18v power supply. I wired the strips in parallel and it works.
I like how he says "how to make" like we are gonna wake up and start search for false windows tutorials
haha i found this by literally googling "how to make a fake window- lights plus curtains"
Yikes, that's exactly what I was looking for because I'm trying to make a realistic window with scenery from the elder scrolls. 😅
@@TheMorriganTakesWing hehe
Perks’ like a big brother we never had.
Our minds seem to think alike. I'm the only person I've met before seeing your video by chance that repurposes old laptop screens as a stable platform to breath new life into something new it couldn't do before... One thing I realized a long time ago was the value of old laptops that don't work or have broken screens is that their screens make wonderful bases (frames) for building my own custom solar panels. I used the laptop because with the screen (newly redone with solar cells instead of LCD panel) still attached was an easy way to directly aim the solar panel adjacent 90º straight at the sun. You discovered the value of a laptop's broken screen as merely a frame and backboard for your LED light panel creation. But I think you should leave them attached to the laptop! Why?
If you should reattach the screens after you've made the light panels out of them back to the hinge(s) on the laptop it came from, you can then use the old battle axe as convenientl sufficiently weighted base which can not only hold your LED light panels upright without having to wrangle up any additional custom hardware to hold and the light off the floor, but because laptop screens stay open at a wide range of user-selectable angles anywhere from ~5º to ~180º typically, you can use this arrangement to easily aim and hold in place for you the direction and vertical angle of your new flat light. And two more things about sticking with the original computer as a base to leave the light panel attached to is the laptop base also allows you to fold your light panel back down against your dead laptop and snug it up parallel to the base which would protect your LED light from accidental bump or drop breakage during transport or moving. mAs well as it just really makes for an interesting conversation piece and its a unique piece of hybrid reuse recycling to be proud of. it to the base the closed position thus the remaining half of the laptop protects the shape and integrity of your LED light panel while its being transported and these can be used to aim light in outdoor areas without much worry of them blowing over because of that weighted old laptop base you kept them attached to. Why get rid of a good thing? Keep the rest of the laptop as a nice wighted bases to hold the screens pointing in any direction from horizon to virtually straight up, protect them from blowing over in the wind, and protect them from abuse in transport. There is also a way you can (if the laptops battery, power supply and charge controller circuits still work, use the existing power-switch, power adaptor, and battery to not only power the light with a high-quality DC battery-filtered (no AC ripple riding on DC) clean battery backed-up source of power or to power the light outdoors where there are no immediate power utilities nearby. and you can even reuse the laptop to do all this AND charge your cell-phone even from the existing USB port on the laptop which tend to work still wether an OS even loads up or not on the laptop. Even if the motherboard or CPU on the laptop is pretty much hosed on the laptop, chances are its original 19.5 Volt power-supply, the backlight on the screen and sometimes even the battery are still usable and useful features you can use to make yourself a folding battery-powered cell-phone charging, light angle and direction-holding "flat-top panel-light!" Think of the possibilities. You can set the laptop on a high shelf and angle the screen at the ceiling for nice indirect diffuse ambient lighting for subtle movie scenes or relaxed office work.
BONUS: Heck if you really want to go all out, intercept the audio signal to the laptop speakers right at the start of the first amplifier, break the circuit connection to the main board solder in your own stereo wires and run them to the back or side panel where the headphone hack is and break the jack connections to the mainboard and wire the cable to the jack. Now you can plug-in an iPod or your cellphone and use it to play music as well. (You may have to additionally solder in a potentiometer to the feedback resistor or logic line that controls the audio amplifier create a new control for setting the audio volum if the laptop does not have a manual volume dial switch (most don't) so you can control the volume yourself in cause the default volume is set to 0 digitally at power by the laptop hardware. Go that far? Heck I would to make a nice multifunctional piece of hardware that does all the tricks you want it to. Whatever helps you have to carry less hardware around that can be done all in one box just by making subtle alterations to the functionality or connectivity of what's already there is a good thing worth pursuing!
I have two questions:
1. Can we additionally hook it up with Arduino and control its spectrum?
2. Can we also build it in such a way to be used as Camera flash?
I would love to know both the above please.....waiting!
no i dont think so, there are no modules for it, thats why the arduino and raspberry pi suck
Is there a good video that explains volts, watts, and ohms? I've never taken a class that taught me them and I've always wanted to learn what they are and how to properly do the math with them for these kinds of projects.
Try looking at The Organic Chemistry Tutor's video, Voltage Current and Resistance
Its pretty helpful
Try the engineering mindset and the orgainic tutor
What if you used working screens and made it look like you’re in a different location using a video loop found on TH-cam and such.
This would make really great light boxes...i think
I enjoyed it so much thank you for the creativity and for sharing it. Can you please show how to connect all four together at the end?
Unless they are flicker free panels, arent they bad for you in terms of eye strain?
We're powering them at full brightness, so no flickering - the flickering happens if they're dimmed via PWM.
Cool, thanks for the quick response. If you ever need an any graphics for the show let me know, I'm interested to help the show, especially on 'green' projects. Cheers! www.delaneydigital.com/
Dutch Trucker my mum said the fluorescent lights hurt people and they said they were elergect to computers
DIY perks Can you tell me why you say it have to be laptop screens? I have a bunch of old computer monitors that i would like to use for this project, if it is possible.
I would guess efficiency and voltages involved in powering each type of screen are different
Awsome, thanks for this Tutorial!I immediately took apart my old Laptop, making the Light really only took me about 15 Minutes :D So cool.But the Board is making noise when its beeing used. I have 12.05 V and 0.368 A, wich is 4.4W. Everything should be fine there. The only diffrence is that i had to use two 300 Ohm Resistors, as I did not have any 180 Ohm around. Any ideas on how to fix this Problem?
Thanks :)
Might be something to do with your power adapter. First step would be to try it with a different one.
+DIY Perks You found the Problem! Thanks ;)
To round things up i'd love to use the Laptops power adaptor, however it has 19V and I'm afraid that a Voltage regulator might cause the same issue again. Any ideas?
how to control the brightness for those panels
can u do video for that
just add a dimmer to the end of the circuit
Find the data sheet for the panel and look at the dimming section. Recreate the recommended PWM signal with an arduino.
WOW . . that looks really good and natural . .
Many years later... the times they are dark and light is what I need right now. But that damn board doesn't tell me where PWM and LED_EN is.
So I found them another way: looked up the specification of the panel, where I found the connector described with all signals. Tested continuity on all pads and found both within a minute.
Let there be light!
Christian Bednarek useful comment
I have a ccfl screen. Can i make use of that in some way
+umer salim i'm interested in this as well
+Glebs Litvjaks Thx man i'll give it a try. i'm kinda of new to the electronics scene. :D thank you again.
+Glebs Litvjaks My inverters input pins are numbered from TP4 to 8. I am sure TP8 is ground. But how can I determine the others?
Is this the guy from fsociety?
+István Nagy Brighton.
Any one selling these panels ? I would appreciate the info !
Regards
well done algorithm, your magic has worked
2021...this is my "Elgato" cheap key light, I'm trying to work something with a raspberry to control the intensity of the light...I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
Hi I have an old laptop that doent work anyway it was like 10 years old or so anyway I was wondering could you make a simple tutorial on how to turn this into a second monitor with out buying any extra parts so just using the laptop please.
Check out this awesome Instructable.
www.instructables.com/id/Old-laptop-screen-into-Monitor
Need to buy a controller board cant I use the old laptop one also I would find it easier to watch someone do it
+Mohammed Qureshi I'm sure if you use Google you will eventually end up with something. And no, you probably can not use the laptops own controller board.
ah ok thank you anyway :D
+Mohammed Qureshi You will most likely not be able to do this if it is broken, because then the parts you need are most likely damaged. But if you get it working, let me know! Best of luck to you my good sir!
I found every contact point except the ground pad. The closest thing I found is the GND pad but I'm not sure if I should use that one. Does anyone have a similar problem?
+Luka Repusic GND is the same as the ground pad :)
+DIY Perks Thanks for the reply, I'll try it out tomorrow! :)
I connected everything and unfortunately it's not working :/
I'm not sure what I did wrong but I will try again as soon as I lay hands on another display.
What if there is something labeled gnd and a big unnamed pad?
+ArcSmith Try on the big unnamed pad first and if it doesnt work then try it on the gnd pad.
If you can, try it out without soldering first. I had my brother help me and we just put the wires on the pad and watched if it worked and then we soldered if it did
Who are those fools who gave down thumbs ?
Thus is very useful project for home interior ! 👍
my goodness! i've thrown away soo many laptop parts I'm legit kicking myself!!! this would be a game changer in my house 😅 great video XD !
if you put it up horizontally with a bit of tweaking in the center gaps you can make it look like the Windows 10 logo
THANK YOU BRO IT WORK
I AM FINDING THIS FROM LONG TIME
Voltage divider on a 12v rail? Are you mad man? Switch that shit.
It's so low wattage on that sense line that very little power is wasted.
+MSI2k What's wrong with it, explain please.
+MSI2k 0,4W is wasted which is... I don't know, for me it's too much. Any other options that are more efficient?
+Mariusz Kozłowski 0.4W? Did he say what values of the resistors he's used?
Yes, 180Ohm x2 = 360Ohm, 12V / 360Ohm = 33mA. 33mA * 12V = 0,4W.
5:18 looks like a man with one missing arm and a dangeling... well... you know... xD