Everything you said made sense to me I’m a gunsmith student and you gave clear information about the parts and why they work as they do. Good job friend.✅
Thank you ! I appreciate that ! And thank you for watching,Smithing is an art and I enjoy it but I’m no gun smith by any means so I appreciate your kind comment!
Lol 😂 thanks for letting me know I’m not the only one ! I can never just leave things alone ! And I’m of the mindset if it can be done then I can do it , the information is out there so I’ll figure it out.
@@americantrucker9813 absolutely. That’s how I started building my own guns 20 years ago. I love to figure out ways to make things better. I haven’t changed anything on my prodigy yet but when I do there won’t be a part left untouched.
@@jessedavis4699 that’s awesome! That’s what makes it so much fun, I enjoy tinkering with just about anything but it’s especially enjoyable to make a gun that was 1,500 equal to a $6,000 gun and the only difference left is the price & logo or trademark. But thank you for watching & let me know how it goes with your Prodigy!
Just an interesting thought. You ever think about working on other folks guns? God bless brother. Thanks for the prodigy videos. Mine gets sent to my ffl next week!
Actually, I do do work on other peoples guns but just friends and family and I don’t charge people because I just enjoy doing this kind of stuff. But I’m always open to help anybody who needs help so reach out if you need anything! God Bless You & Yours ! Sorry for the delayed response. I actually didn’t get a notification for your comment.
Wow.... that sear sprig is way different than I thought it should be. My prodigy broke at 3-3.5 from the factory. But everyone said to do the egw kit. That's what I get for fiddling lol
Thanks for the tutorial, going to try this tmrw when my infinity trigger/ignition kit shows up. EGW is out of stock everywhere atm. Will be the first time attempting something like this so I appreciate you uploading some instructions.
You’re very welcome! And you can get the EGW ignition kit on eBay. I seen many sellers with it in stock. Also you can try EGWs website, Dawson precision, AtlasGunworks might but they’re almost always out.
EGW is drop in and so is the Atlas trigger with the stock grip. I haven’t tried the infinity stuff so I can’t speak on it though I think their prices are high and I don’t think it could be worth it but that’s just my opinion. But I enjoy thinking it’s my thing and I don’t mind having to learn and make things work it’s part of the fun and I get to share and help out good people along the way !
If you have any issues let me know and I’ll do my best to get you squared away. I have a disassembly and reassembly Atlas trigger install video as well as a trigger job video that should walk you through anything you might need to know and help with any issues you may have as well as to ensure your trigger is safe for use
Thank you very much. I appreciate that and it is an aftermarket slide stop. The one in this video is an extended slide stop for a 1911 .45 acp from a seller on TH-cam called Klonimus. It requires some fitting modification to fit, I believe I have some videos on this, but the current one that I use and highly recommend is the intermediate slide stop from TriArch systems, it requires very little fitting, but zero modifications to fit properly, it is in fact, designed for a double stack 1911
Put in an egw kit. Didn't mess with the sear spring. But had trigger follow. Thanks for the video, tore my prodigy apart to do the trigger, and try another sear spring. But my grip screws would not come out even after heating and quenching. So they are toast. Waiting on screws now since they are a size up from normal 1911 screws. If I ever become a smith I'll have to have a set of drawers full of screws.
Yeah, those screws are crap! They are the first things I had to replace on mine. You can get the group chat screws from AtlasGunworks or Cheely customs and Dawson precision the grip screw kit is a must and it has the replacement front grip screw the tiny ones.
Why people think a GOOD TRIGGER JOB is how light the break is? 1) For me the Grip safety needs to be tuned to the trigger bow, would be the first on my list. The grip safety 20%/30% pushed in to give the trigger bow enough clearance is needs to safety fire. 2) Address the sear and hammer angles are perfect stoned and polished. 3) Very positive reset. 5) I would a dress the be over travel if any. Thats Just Me 🤷
And you said it perfect. “For me” xyz. That’s you. Other people know what they like. Idk why people want a heavy trigger. But that’s them. I want to win if I’m ever in a battle for my life because I like me lol. Bill drills are a main staple in practice sessions.
I think you miss understood me or I didn't translate my thoughts correctly. Let me ask you, you answered me with, "And i disagree that’s what most people think". What type of pistol do you think most new 2011 owners owned and still own before the flood of 2011 came to market? Would you agree with me, it's most likely a striker fired pistol? It wasn't until Staccato blew up the 2011 market in the law enforcement and civilian side in 2019 that the 2011 fever spread like the Corona virus? Every one else was still making pistols for competition shooters or people with deep pockets. One more question for you. You said, "Most 2011s have no grip safety (it’s a liability)". Then why would you take off a working grip safety and put what looks like to me a Cheely E2 grip with a safety on your pistol? You could have gotten the L2 grip and keep your working grip safety your pistol came with.
I did a trigger job on my prodigy DS it’s now got a 2 pound trigger very sweet, but I didn’t buy any new parts. I took the parts that were in it and polished them up put it back together adjusted the spring for the trigger. it’s working sweet now.
And just make sure you don’t have any hammer follow 2 pounds is definitely as light as I would go with the prodigy, making sure you have a positive reset
Only mistake I saw was your left hand in front of the muzzle with a loaded magazine in the gun. I like what you have replaced on the Prodigy, at some point is it really a Prodigy anymore?
I installed the egw kit, atlas trigger and atlas guide rod. The slide sticks once it’s completely racked back. You can almost let it go gently and it’ll stay for a second. When I test the trigger I press and hold the trigger and rack the slide,the slide gets stuck until I release the trigger. I’m green to the 1911/2011 world. Your videos have gotten me this far so I figured you’d be the guy to reach out to haha! If you have any ideas I’d really appricate it! Thank you
Sorry your having issues and thank you I appreciate that and I’m definitely the guy to help you out ! So your slides hanging on the disconnector I’m guessing there’s increased pressure on it with the installation of the new EGW kit, did you use the supplied sear spring? If so they’re seriously over sprung and require fine tune. Your options are to lighten the middle leaf on the sear spring which will lighten your trigger pull and trigger reset force I’d recommend watching my trigger job lightening trigger pull video or if you like the pull weight and reset profile I’d recommend cutting a ramp into the disco rail on your slide at the bottom of the breach face it’s nothing crazy it’s factory on many guns like my atlas Nyx basically you just sand with a dremel until the disco rail and is above the disconnector and you make it a nice smooth ramp and it will cycle so much smoother and more reliably and overall one of the best upgrades you can do. I should make a video on how to do that, if your interested I’ll make one this weekend just let me know
@@americantrucker9813 Thank you man your Awsome!I have watched it but I’m going to watch it again and give it a try. Hell yeah I’d be very interested in that video sounds like an Awsome upgrade very much worth doing
@@americantrucker9813 Sorry I didn’t answer your question so I didn’t use the sear that came with the egw kit I purchased 1911 Colt sear spring and used that. Should I have used the one in the kit? The only reason I did that is cuz my brother in law got his all customized by skips gunz and that’s what he was running
No worries and it’s really doesn’t matter what sear Spring you use they are all pretty much similar unless you get some cheap Chinese junk from wish lol but just about everyone I’ve got needed tuned they’ve all been Over Spring which makes sense if the left leaf is too light you’ll have hammer follow and if the middle leafs too light it can fail to reset the trigger and or hammer follow. It usually don’t take much simply bending the left leaf back a little but make sure to test for hammer follow and weigh the trigger pull. If you at 3.5lbs or heavier than you shouldn’t have any issues. Any lighter than 3.5lbs and you’ll need more Pre-Travel and over-travel in the trigger not much but some @ 3.5 lbs I’ve found it to be the sweet spot you can eliminate all pre-travel & Over travel.
On my prodigy, I still use the factory guide rod. I don’t think it makes much of a difference to be honest but I do have an EGW tooless guide rod in my Atlas which is identical to the prodigy and it’s very nice. I think it just comes down to your personal preference. I would recommend the EGW Keyed Reverse plug, I have a video on my channel that shows my prodigy with it. It fills the gap between the barrel, and the guide rod and I think it makes a very Flush seamless look!
I use EGW ignition kits and I have both lightened and solid and their both great it’s just whatever you prefer I do like the feel of the solid more but again it’s just subjective
Not a dumb question my friend! And thank you I appreciate that ! So I have had many finishes on my prodigy it’s been a bit of a test dummy (you can check out my channel for other finishes) but the finish in this video was almost a copy cat of my Koenig’s finish because I really like the stainless steel on black but the black is cerakote and the stainless steel is bare metal (sand blasted) and hand polished
@@americantrucker9813 Man I’ve noticed the different looks and this is by far my favorite look of any 2011… it’s almost like you’ve taken a vision of mine and made it a reality! Ive been wanting a “terminator” finish like a “battle worn stainless steel” look and this is the closest I’ve seen to it! Not to say i want to copy but is this something someone else could replicate? 😅🤙🏼
It is most definitely something you can replicate and you can replicate it from home if you want. You can get a sand blaster from harbor freight fairly cheap and than disassemble the gun get the grip off and than blast off the black only what you want to take off and tape the rest and than to get the brushed steel look you’ll need to sand in one direction and start from finer to coarse and stop at the desired finish. Or you can probably send it out to get done.
Hello, I put the tooless kit in my springfield prodigy and now the frame and slide seem to wiggle a little from side to side. Is this normal? I pull the trigger back and I get 3 trigger clicks, not two. Is this normal as well?
Hey, it’s sounds to me the Toolless guidrod isn’t the correct length (doesn’t mean it is that’s just weird) A little play in your slide to frame fitment doesn’t hurt anything as long as your Barrel to Slide lock up is Super tight and No wiggle from there and you hear 3 clicks or your hammer physically stops on 3 different positions?
Wow, I have watched so many videos online that was very informative but yours by far was the best I’m subscribing right now I’m following thumbs up and always gonna comment. I spent all night and all morning trying to install my egw kit i’m still waiting for my High ambidextrous safeties to come in so I installed the ones that came with the prodigy and I’m having so much trouble. It is super hard to place on safety ones the guns put up together I have to fight it so hard. When I say hard I mean hard. What should I do, in the meantime while I wait for the other safeties?
I appreciate that very much my friend and I should be able to help you out. Can you elaborate a little bit more on what you mean when you say it is super hard to place on safeties? do you mean once the safeties are installed? You’re having a hard time engaging the safety by flipping it up? or you are having a hard time getting the safety into the hole and on the gun?
All 1911s & 2011s are single action triggers. What do you mean single stage ? Can you try to elaborate on what you think a single stage is and how mine is a Single Stage vs how it was before?
@@americantrucker9813 ok my trigger has like a couple millimeters of take up before the wall or “slack” it’s minimal but I want none. Do I adjust the tabs on the bow out more or is that done with the sear spring? I have egw internals and atlas flat faced medium trigger as well. I agree the egw sear spring is ridiculously heavy.
@@americantrucker9813 the fact there is 0 pretravel. In other videos I heard you say “it’s more like a button than trigger” because of zero pretravel. It’s like immediately on the wall then breaks.
You simply move the tabs out on the bow to remove all pre-travel. And you can have Zero pre-travel as my prodigy is with a 3.5lbs trigger. My Atlas has very Minimal pre-travel with a 2lbs trigger. If I remove all pre-travel on the Atlas the trigger will not be Safe. To test this simply, do you trigger adjustments and preform the safety checks (in my video) you’ll make sure you have full Hammer & sear engagement via cocking hammer (2 locks) and than lock the slide back and drop it (empty chamber) and if it drops the hammer add weight on the Left leaf of the sear spring or middle which is the trigger bow spring that controls trigger reset) and than preform the same test with your finger on the trigger.
That is the Cheely L2 aluminum Grip Module! It can be found at ccgunworks.com if your going to invest in a grip module they are expensive but worth it ($550) id recommend the E2 Aluminum Grip Module.
@@AYYO_Dora I forgot to add that you can use the aluminum grip module on a D 2011 platform that uses grip modules like the staccato and other similar 2011
@@AYYO_Dora and it’s not a bad idea to have a back up grip in case you drop it and the polymer grip breaks. I do believe the polymer grips are impossible to get right now.
@americantrucker9813 I ordered the commander length prodigy about a week ago and it finally arrived this past Tuesday. It's my first 2011 platform. If I enjoy the Prodigy then I'll eventually move up to a Bul or possibly staccato, but I was hesitant dropping 1500 on a pistol let alone 2k+ for a staccato unless I really fall in love with the platform lol.
How did you get it to be stainless. It looks like a raw metal. Amazing looking. I would love to have mine that color configuration but I can’t find any others that are stainless.
@@NoelLewis-g7b you are perfectly fine my friend I understand so I sandblasted it and then hand sanded it, you can go up to 5000 grit to make it shiny or stay at about 1000 and brush in One Direction to get a brushed steel look. What you are going for if this is what you would like I would suggest just doing the exterior. Leaving the internals coated to protect from corrosion. You won’t have any issues with corrosion on the exterior of the gun because I’m sure you will clean the gun and give it a polish every now and again if it needs it. Raw carbon steel is not hard to maintain, it would only be a problem internally where you cannot see and you don’t clean unless you were to break this gun down once a month entirely to inspecting & clean.
@@americantrucker9813thank you so much. I definitely want it to look the way yours does. Raw. Not polished. I def keep my guns cleaned and oiled, but I don’t want to break them down to the internals regularly. I don’t have the time for that. I have too many guns and too little time after shooting. I’m a firefighter so you would think I have an abundance of free time, but I would rather not utilize it cleaning that deeply into the internals. You also blasted the polymer lower too, is that correct? I truly appreciate your fast response and input on all this. Im learning how to work on my own guns even though I have a gunsmith as a close friend. I just bought a prodigy and I’m trying to do as much as I can to upgrade it and fix the problems everyone seems to have, before they happen to mine. Like fixing the feed ramp issues and taking off the cerakote that’s overdone inside on the moving parts.
@user-dz8qv2me9x no do not do anything to the polymer lower. My grip module is aluminum, that is why mine looks different it is a Cheely Aluminum L2 grip, the aluminum grip module is an amazing upgrade! well worth the $550 and the grip can be used on any 2011 regardless of brand-name, I would recommend getting the E2 grip over the L2 grip but that is just my preference. I totally understand not wanting to disassemble entirely, so that is why I suggest leaving the cerakote on most of the internals with the exception of a few spots but you can let those spots break in on their own. And you’re very very welcome. Let me know how it goes.”!
@@americantrucker9813thank you and I will absolutely keep you posted on the progress. I’m considering getting it sent out to be custom ported/comped.
I did my ignition kit from EGW. Dunno why but the lightened hammer doesn’t lock back n hammer follows. It’s fine with stock hammer. It’s like it just doesn’t push back far enough. Nice video
So with the EGW hammer it actually has a different brake position so if you have the atlas trigger and you adjusted the trigger to get rid of the pre-travel and over travel, that might be your culprit so what I’m thinking is your trigger is basically pulled because it cannot go forward enough so pre-travel adjustment If I’m wrong about that then I would say try using the old sear spring.
@@americantrucker9813 right on. I’ll check er out. Like with the slide back if I pushed the hammer a hair farther down than the slide would it locked back. It’s perfectly normal with original hammer. Prolly somthin dumb I’m sure
@@Sabtaj65 I’m not exactly sure without looking at it, but I had that same issue and it was because of the atlas trigger was set up for a different hammer & ignition kit. I wouldn’t think you got a Bad EGW kit just because they make Really great stuff but it’s always possible. If that isn’t the issue, then I’m thinking the left arm on the sear spring isn’t putting enough weight but if you didn’t bend it than that’s probably not likely if non of that works try it without the Safeties and if that’s not it call EGW I’m sure they’ll replace it for free and if it happens again, send me your gun lol because I need to see this!
@@americantrucker9813 I haven’t tried to re-install the egw hammer. It would lock back if I (while holding slide back) barely pushed it down with my thumb. I have not changed the hammer strut and that may be the culprit as it’s still a mim part. Everything feels great as of now but I’m gonna get a new hammer strut and upgrade the safety as well. So I’m gonna wait to try the new hammer again then
There’s 2 solid options. If you don’t want to modify your Grip or the slide stop the only option is the TriArc 2011 intermediate Slide stop it’s the only extended slide stop in the world designed specifically for 2011s that I’m aware of but you’ll need to Fit it to your gun. It’s easy I made a video on how to do that. Or you can get a Klonimus 1911 .45 ACP extended slide stop from eBay and with some modifications make it fit. They both work great I’d recommend the TriArc it can be found at www.triarcsystems.com
I highly recommend the Atlas Trigger I personally prefer the Flat Medium in whatever color. You’ll need The 2011 Bow it is separate from the trigger shoe which is pretty cool, because you can buy multiple trigger shoes in different colors. Or if you are like me and you set your trigger over travel with red Loctite. And then, if you change your internals and the screw strips, you only have to replace the trigger shoe which is pretty cheap.
Not technically because it’s hammer follow it’s a mechanical failure not a modification and the gun will not run like that it will typically jam after 2 shots because it’s faster than the guns rate of fire 🔥
my opinion, people dont need to change those parts for better trigger pull or something. Just bend that sear spring correctly, can already give me a good 2.2 lbs trigger pull by slow pull and 1lbs by quick pull. (have done this yesterday for my prodigy 5"). Well a Atlas Gunworks Trigger is a very good choice for prodigy. ;)
I’m not sure if you watched the video, but I have explained plenty of times that modifications are not needed but people know that we don’t modify our guns because we have to we do it because we want to, we like to, and it’s just an enjoyable hobby, some people golf, and some people love customizing & shooting guns
@@ngirardo86 well I appreciate the tip, my friend, but I don’t have any use for a better one. I don’t work on guns for a living and I don’t work on anyone else’s guns so it does the trick for me. To each his own as I always say.
Everything you said made sense to me I’m a gunsmith student and you gave clear information about the parts and why they work as they do. Good job friend.✅
Thank you ! I appreciate that ! And thank you for watching,Smithing is an art and I enjoy it but I’m no gun smith by any means so I appreciate your kind comment!
Lol, every time I watch your videos you’re prodigy’s different. I thought I was the only one that loved to play with my guns.
Lol 😂 thanks for letting me know I’m not the only one ! I can never just leave things alone ! And I’m of the mindset if it can be done then I can do it , the information is out there so I’ll figure it out.
@@americantrucker9813 absolutely. That’s how I started building my own guns 20 years ago. I love to figure out ways to make things better. I haven’t changed anything on my prodigy yet but when I do there won’t be a part left untouched.
@@jessedavis4699 that’s awesome! That’s what makes it so much fun, I enjoy tinkering with just about anything but it’s especially enjoyable to make a gun that was 1,500 equal to a $6,000 gun and the only difference left is the price & logo or trademark. But thank you for watching & let me know how it goes with your Prodigy!
Just an interesting thought. You ever think about working on other folks guns? God bless brother. Thanks for the prodigy videos. Mine gets sent to my ffl next week!
Actually, I do do work on other peoples guns but just friends and family and I don’t charge people because I just enjoy doing this kind of stuff. But I’m always open to help anybody who needs help so reach out if you need anything! God Bless You & Yours ! Sorry for the delayed response. I actually didn’t get a notification for your comment.
Wow.... that sear sprig is way different than I thought it should be. My prodigy broke at 3-3.5 from the factory. But everyone said to do the egw kit. That's what I get for fiddling lol
I can tell you the sear spring I got from eqw was way over powered and I had to tune it. What issue are you having now?
Thanks for the tutorial, going to try this tmrw when my infinity trigger/ignition kit shows up. EGW is out of stock everywhere atm. Will be the first time attempting something like this so I appreciate you uploading some instructions.
You’re very welcome! And you can get the EGW ignition kit on eBay. I seen many sellers with it in stock. Also you can try EGWs website, Dawson precision, AtlasGunworks might but they’re almost always out.
How did your install go? Was looking at the I finty kit since they say it’s drop it. Any issues ?
EGW is drop in and so is the Atlas trigger with the stock grip. I haven’t tried the infinity stuff so I can’t speak on it though I think their prices are high and I don’t think it could be worth it but that’s just my opinion. But I enjoy thinking it’s my thing and I don’t mind having to learn and make things work it’s part of the fun and I get to share and help out good people along the way !
@@americantrucker9813 thanks for the info. I’ll go ahead and order the EGW kit and the trigger. Hopefully I don’t run into any isssues
If you have any issues let me know and I’ll do my best to get you squared away. I have a disassembly and reassembly Atlas trigger install video as well as a trigger job video that should walk you through anything you might need to know and help with any issues you may have as well as to ensure your trigger is safe for use
great video i would like to ask about the slide release it seems to be longer than standard could you let me know where you picked it up.
Thank you very much. I appreciate that and it is an aftermarket slide stop. The one in this video is an extended slide stop for a 1911 .45 acp from a seller on TH-cam called Klonimus. It requires some fitting modification to fit, I believe I have some videos on this, but the current one that I use and highly recommend is the intermediate slide stop from TriArch systems, it requires very little fitting, but zero modifications to fit properly, it is in fact, designed for a double stack 1911
Put in an egw kit. Didn't mess with the sear spring. But had trigger follow. Thanks for the video, tore my prodigy apart to do the trigger, and try another sear spring. But my grip screws would not come out even after heating and quenching. So they are toast. Waiting on screws now since they are a size up from normal 1911 screws. If I ever become a smith I'll have to have a set of drawers full of screws.
Yeah, those screws are crap! They are the first things I had to replace on mine. You can get the group chat screws from AtlasGunworks or Cheely customs and Dawson precision the grip screw kit is a must and it has the replacement front grip screw the tiny ones.
Why people think a GOOD TRIGGER JOB is how light the break is? 1) For me the Grip safety needs to be tuned to the trigger bow, would be the first on my list. The grip safety 20%/30% pushed in to give the trigger bow enough clearance is needs to safety fire. 2) Address the sear and hammer angles are perfect stoned and polished. 3) Very positive reset. 5) I would a dress the be over travel if any. Thats Just Me 🤷
Thanks for watching! And i disagree that’s what most people think. Most 2011s have no grip safety (it’s a liability).
And you said it perfect. “For me” xyz. That’s you. Other people know what they like. Idk why people want a heavy trigger. But that’s them. I want to win if I’m ever in a battle for my life because I like me lol. Bill drills are a main staple in practice sessions.
I think you miss understood me or I didn't translate my thoughts correctly. Let me ask you, you answered me with, "And i disagree that’s what most people think". What type of pistol do you think most new 2011 owners owned and still own before the flood of 2011 came to market? Would you agree with me, it's most likely a striker fired pistol? It wasn't until Staccato blew up the 2011 market in the law enforcement and civilian side in 2019 that the 2011 fever spread like the Corona virus? Every one else was still making pistols for competition shooters or people with deep pockets. One more question for you. You said, "Most 2011s have no grip safety (it’s a liability)". Then why would you take off a working grip safety and put what looks like to me a Cheely E2 grip with a safety on your pistol? You could have gotten the L2 grip and keep your working grip safety your pistol came with.
Awesome video, can’t wait to adjust my trigger. Thanks for the help!
Your very welcome! I’m here to help !
@@americantrucker9813hey brother could I get a list of everything you did to your prodigy so I can make mine just like yours please
Thanks for the video!!! I actually like the non editing 😂
You’re very welcome my friend! and I’m happy to hear that because I don’t know how to edit 😂
I did a trigger job on my prodigy DS it’s now got a 2 pound trigger very sweet, but I didn’t buy any new parts. I took the parts that were in it and polished them up put it back together adjusted the spring for the trigger. it’s working sweet now.
That’s awesome that’s what I like to hear! did my video help you at all? I wasn’t sure if you were saying this helped you do that.
And just make sure you don’t have any hammer follow 2 pounds is definitely as light as I would go with the prodigy, making sure you have a positive reset
So when you get hammer follow and you empty the magazine, that's a problem?
Lol 😂
Only mistake I saw was your left hand in front of the muzzle with a loaded magazine in the gun. I like what you have replaced on the Prodigy, at some point is it really a Prodigy anymore?
I installed the egw kit, atlas trigger and atlas guide rod. The slide sticks once it’s completely racked back. You can almost let it go gently and it’ll stay for a second. When I test the trigger I press and hold the trigger and rack the slide,the slide gets stuck until I release the trigger. I’m green to the 1911/2011 world. Your videos have gotten me this far so I figured you’d be the guy to reach out to haha! If you have any ideas I’d really appricate it! Thank you
Sorry your having issues and thank you I appreciate that and I’m definitely the guy to help you out ! So your slides hanging on the disconnector I’m guessing there’s increased pressure on it with the installation of the new EGW kit, did you use the supplied sear spring? If so they’re seriously over sprung and require fine tune. Your options are to lighten the middle leaf on the sear spring which will lighten your trigger pull and trigger reset force I’d recommend watching my trigger job lightening trigger pull video or if you like the pull weight and reset profile I’d recommend cutting a ramp into the disco rail on your slide at the bottom of the breach face it’s nothing crazy it’s factory on many guns like my atlas Nyx basically you just sand with a dremel until the disco rail and is above the disconnector and you make it a nice smooth ramp and it will cycle so much smoother and more reliably and overall one of the best upgrades you can do. I should make a video on how to do that, if your interested I’ll make one this weekend just let me know
@@americantrucker9813
Thank you man your Awsome!I have watched it but I’m going to watch it again and give it a try. Hell yeah I’d be very interested in that video sounds like an Awsome upgrade very much worth doing
@@americantrucker9813
Sorry I didn’t answer your question so I didn’t use the sear that came with the egw kit I purchased 1911 Colt sear spring and used that. Should I have used the one in the kit? The only reason I did that is cuz my brother in law got his all customized by skips gunz and that’s what he was running
No worries and it’s really doesn’t matter what sear Spring you use they are all pretty much similar unless you get some cheap Chinese junk from wish lol but just about everyone I’ve got needed tuned they’ve all been Over Spring which makes sense if the left leaf is too light you’ll have hammer follow and if the middle leafs too light it can fail to reset the trigger and or hammer follow. It usually don’t take much simply bending the left leaf back a little but make sure to test for hammer follow and weigh the trigger pull. If you at 3.5lbs or heavier than you shouldn’t have any issues. Any lighter than 3.5lbs and you’ll need more Pre-Travel and over-travel in the trigger not much but some @ 3.5 lbs I’ve found it to be the sweet spot you can eliminate all pre-travel & Over travel.
@@americantrucker9813
Ok sounds like a plan I’m going to give it a try and I’ll let you know how it goes.Again thanks for the help bro your the shit!
one piece guide rod, no tool needed? What brand model do you suggest? thank you!
On my prodigy, I still use the factory guide rod. I don’t think it makes much of a difference to be honest but I do have an EGW tooless guide rod in my Atlas which is identical to the prodigy and it’s very nice. I think it just comes down to your personal preference. I would recommend the EGW Keyed Reverse plug, I have a video on my channel that shows my prodigy with it. It fills the gap between the barrel, and the guide rod and I think it makes a very Flush seamless look!
Which ignition kit did you all do the lightened hammer or the solid hammer?
I use EGW ignition kits and I have both lightened and solid and their both great it’s just whatever you prefer I do like the feel of the solid more but again it’s just subjective
The finish on this is absolutely wild!! Is this a custom finish or rubbing on the original finish? Sorry for the dumb question
Not a dumb question my friend! And thank you I appreciate that ! So I have had many finishes on my prodigy it’s been a bit of a test dummy (you can check out my channel for other finishes) but the finish in this video was almost a copy cat of my Koenig’s finish because I really like the stainless steel on black but the black is cerakote and the stainless steel is bare metal (sand blasted) and hand polished
@@americantrucker9813 Man I’ve noticed the different looks and this is by far my favorite look of any 2011… it’s almost like you’ve taken a vision of mine and made it a reality! Ive been wanting a “terminator” finish like a “battle worn stainless steel” look and this is the closest I’ve seen to it! Not to say i want to copy but is this something someone else could replicate? 😅🤙🏼
It is most definitely something you can replicate and you can replicate it from home if you want. You can get a sand blaster from harbor freight fairly cheap and than disassemble the gun get the grip off and than blast off the black only what you want to take off and tape the rest and than to get the brushed steel look you’ll need to sand in one direction and start from finer to coarse and stop at the desired finish. Or you can probably send it out to get done.
Hello,
I put the tooless kit in my springfield prodigy and now the frame and slide seem to wiggle a little from side to side. Is this normal? I pull the trigger back and I get 3 trigger clicks, not two. Is this normal as well?
Hey, it’s sounds to me the Toolless guidrod isn’t the correct length (doesn’t mean it is that’s just weird) A little play in your slide to frame fitment doesn’t hurt anything as long as your Barrel to Slide lock up is Super tight and No wiggle from there and you hear 3 clicks or your hammer physically stops on 3 different positions?
Wow, I have watched so many videos online that was very informative but yours by far was the best I’m subscribing right now I’m following thumbs up and always gonna comment. I spent all night and all morning trying to install my egw kit i’m still waiting for my High ambidextrous safeties to come in so I installed the ones that came with the prodigy and I’m having so much trouble. It is super hard to place on safety ones the guns put up together I have to fight it so hard. When I say hard I mean hard. What should I do, in the meantime while I wait for the other safeties?
I appreciate that very much my friend and I should be able to help you out. Can you elaborate a little bit more on what you mean when you say it is super hard to place on safeties? do you mean once the safeties are installed? You’re having a hard time engaging the safety by flipping it up? or you are having a hard time getting the safety into the hole and on the gun?
I am going to make a quick short video on how to install the safeties and take them off and talk about some issues you might have with them.
Video is finished and uploading now should be finished and ready to watch in a few minutes!
Why am I missing the part where you make it single stage like that?!?!
All 1911s & 2011s are single action triggers. What do you mean single stage ? Can you try to elaborate on what you think a single stage is and how mine is a Single Stage vs how it was before?
@@americantrucker9813 ok my trigger has like a couple millimeters of take up before the wall or “slack” it’s minimal but I want none. Do I adjust the tabs on the bow out more or is that done with the sear spring? I have egw internals and atlas flat faced medium trigger as well. I agree the egw sear spring is ridiculously heavy.
@@americantrucker9813 the fact there is 0 pretravel. In other videos I heard you say “it’s more like a button than trigger” because of zero pretravel. It’s like immediately on the wall then breaks.
You simply move the tabs out on the bow to remove all pre-travel. And you can have Zero pre-travel as my prodigy is with a 3.5lbs trigger. My Atlas has very Minimal pre-travel with a 2lbs trigger. If I remove all pre-travel on the Atlas the trigger will not be Safe. To test this simply, do you trigger adjustments and preform the safety checks (in my video) you’ll make sure you have full Hammer & sear engagement via cocking hammer (2 locks) and than lock the slide back and drop it (empty chamber) and if it drops the hammer add weight on the Left leaf of the sear spring or middle which is the trigger bow spring that controls trigger reset) and than preform the same test with your finger on the trigger.
What grip module is that? It looks slightly thinner than the factory grip, but maybe that's just camera tricks.
That is the Cheely L2 aluminum Grip Module! It can be found at ccgunworks.com if your going to invest in a grip module they are expensive but worth it ($550) id recommend the E2 Aluminum Grip Module.
@@americantrucker9813 thank you for the info!
@@AYYO_Dora I forgot to add that you can use the aluminum grip module on a D 2011 platform that uses grip modules like the staccato and other similar 2011
@@AYYO_Dora and it’s not a bad idea to have a back up grip in case you drop it and the polymer grip breaks. I do believe the polymer grips are impossible to get right now.
@americantrucker9813 I ordered the commander length prodigy about a week ago and it finally arrived this past Tuesday. It's my first 2011 platform. If I enjoy the Prodigy then I'll eventually move up to a Bul or possibly staccato, but I was hesitant dropping 1500 on a pistol let alone 2k+ for a staccato unless I really fall in love with the platform lol.
Which EGW kit should you buy?
Whichever one you’d like honestly. I’m pretty sure the kits are similar just different hammers
How did you get it to be stainless. It looks like a raw metal. Amazing looking. I would love to have mine that color configuration but I can’t find any others that are stainless.
Never mind. You just said you sandblasted it lol. I have no patience sorry
@@NoelLewis-g7b you are perfectly fine my friend I understand so I sandblasted it and then hand sanded it, you can go up to 5000 grit to make it shiny or stay at about 1000 and brush in One Direction to get a brushed steel look. What you are going for if this is what you would like I would suggest just doing the exterior. Leaving the internals coated to protect from corrosion. You won’t have any issues with corrosion on the exterior of the gun because I’m sure you will clean the gun and give it a polish every now and again if it needs it. Raw carbon steel is not hard to maintain, it would only be a problem internally where you cannot see and you don’t clean unless you were to break this gun down once a month entirely to inspecting & clean.
@@americantrucker9813thank you so much. I definitely want it to look the way yours does. Raw. Not polished. I def keep my guns cleaned and oiled, but I don’t want to break them down to the internals regularly. I don’t have the time for that. I have too many guns and too little time after shooting. I’m a firefighter so you would think I have an abundance of free time, but I would rather not utilize it cleaning that deeply into the internals. You also blasted the polymer lower too, is that correct? I truly appreciate your fast response and input on all this. Im learning how to work on my own guns even though I have a gunsmith as a close friend. I just bought a prodigy and I’m trying to do as much as I can to upgrade it and fix the problems everyone seems to have, before they happen to mine. Like fixing the feed ramp issues and taking off the cerakote that’s overdone inside on the moving parts.
@user-dz8qv2me9x no do not do anything to the polymer lower. My grip module is aluminum, that is why mine looks different it is a Cheely Aluminum L2 grip, the aluminum grip module is an amazing upgrade! well worth the $550 and the grip can be used on any 2011 regardless of brand-name, I would recommend getting the E2 grip over the L2 grip but that is just my preference. I totally understand not wanting to disassemble entirely, so that is why I suggest leaving the cerakote on most of the internals with the exception of a few spots but you can let those spots break in on their own. And you’re very very welcome. Let me know how it goes.”!
@@americantrucker9813thank you and I will absolutely keep you posted on the progress. I’m considering getting it sent out to be custom ported/comped.
I did my ignition kit from EGW. Dunno why but the lightened hammer doesn’t lock back n hammer follows. It’s fine with stock hammer. It’s like it just doesn’t push back far enough. Nice video
So with the EGW hammer it actually has a different brake position so if you have the atlas trigger and you adjusted the trigger to get rid of the pre-travel and over travel, that might be your culprit so what I’m thinking is your trigger is basically pulled because it cannot go forward enough so pre-travel adjustment If I’m wrong about that then I would say try using the old sear spring.
@@americantrucker9813 right on. I’ll check er out. Like with the slide back if I pushed the hammer a hair farther down than the slide would it locked back. It’s perfectly normal with original hammer. Prolly somthin dumb I’m sure
@@Sabtaj65 I’m not exactly sure without looking at it, but I had that same issue and it was because of the atlas trigger was set up for a different hammer & ignition kit. I wouldn’t think you got a Bad EGW kit just because they make Really great stuff but it’s always possible. If that isn’t the issue, then I’m thinking the left arm on the sear spring isn’t putting enough weight but if you didn’t bend it than that’s probably not likely if non of that works try it without the Safeties and if that’s not it call EGW I’m sure they’ll replace it for free and if it happens again, send me your gun lol because I need to see this!
Did you ever resolve your issue?
@@americantrucker9813 I haven’t tried to re-install the egw hammer. It would lock back if I (while holding slide back) barely pushed it down with my thumb. I have not changed the hammer strut and that may be the culprit as it’s still a mim part. Everything feels great as of now but I’m gonna get a new hammer strut and upgrade the safety as well. So I’m gonna wait to try the new hammer again then
Where did you get the grip for the Prodigy?
Ccgunworks.com
What slide stop are you using?
There’s 2 solid options. If you don’t want to modify your Grip or the slide stop the only option is the TriArc 2011 intermediate Slide stop it’s the only extended slide stop in the world designed specifically for 2011s that I’m aware of but you’ll need to Fit it to your gun. It’s easy I made a video on how to do that. Or you can get a Klonimus 1911 .45 ACP extended slide stop from eBay and with some modifications make it fit. They both work great I’d recommend the TriArc it can be found at www.triarcsystems.com
Is that medium Atlas trigger?
Indeed my friend
I highly recommend the Atlas Trigger I personally prefer the Flat Medium in whatever color. You’ll need The 2011 Bow it is separate from the trigger shoe which is pretty cool, because you can buy multiple trigger shoes in different colors. Or if you are like me and you set your trigger over travel with red Loctite. And then, if you change your internals and the screw strips, you only have to replace the trigger shoe which is pretty cheap.
Great video !!!! Thank you !!!! 🙂
You’re welcome my friend!!
So you "accidentally" made it full auto one time? Lol..
Not technically because it’s hammer follow it’s a mechanical failure not a modification and the gun will not run like that it will typically jam after 2 shots because it’s faster than the guns rate of fire 🔥
GEOMETRY
my opinion, people dont need to change those parts for better trigger pull or something. Just bend that sear spring correctly, can already give me a good 2.2 lbs trigger pull by slow pull and 1lbs by quick pull. (have done this yesterday for my prodigy 5"). Well a Atlas Gunworks Trigger is a very good choice for prodigy. ;)
I’m not sure if you watched the video, but I have explained plenty of times that modifications are not needed but people know that we don’t modify our guns because we have to we do it because we want to, we like to, and it’s just an enjoyable hobby, some people golf, and some people love customizing & shooting guns
Get a better trigger gauge. That wheeler is trash
@@ngirardo86 well I appreciate the tip, my friend, but I don’t have any use for a better one. I don’t work on guns for a living and I don’t work on anyone else’s guns so it does the trick for me. To each his own as I always say.
very goofy video
@@fabianomatteucci9551 I’m glad you enjoyed it