Honda Civic G8 FN2 Spaceship Wishbone Lower Control Arm Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ธ.ค. 2020
- Making this as i’ve seen no other clip on the whole internet about doing this.
I seem to be pioneering replacing parts on this car:))
The car has 150k miles but the noise was apparent after say 130k and it went significantly worse, the car still drove just fine, i’d say i could of run it for another 20k miles easy but it began to bug me.
Enjoy!!
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Email: parallaxvisualsltd@gmail.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Oh man. Done the rear bushings last week.....never again. This looks just as frustrating. Nice video and yes, much needed. Kudos
yeah this is a bit more dificult than the rear bushings if i'm honest. it's worth it tho, the car feels stiffer now, less jerkyness in 1st and second gear.
Thx for the video m8.
Any time!
Very good job my friend ,, well done. Which company are the FRONT LH SUSPENSION LOWER WISHBONE ARM BALL and FRONT INNER BUSH ?
check the video description please. the link is there
Noise is from shock absorbers covers and the hard foam mount , check that as is common thing on Honda civic to fail.
i was suspecting the shock absorber bearing on top. the big mushroom looking thing that fixes the spring to the top of the shock's shaft.
i’ve replaced those also and that got rid of some fast ticktak noises I was having over bad roads.
Overall this car is a bit noisier than any other cars that have more suspension components.
Yes, car is noisy even when the suspension is 100 percent ok, but anyway simple to carry out the repair and parts not expensive.
The world needed this video, thanks!
Did the trailing arm bushing (the one that comes with the new arm) unbolt easily from the car? Trying to get mine off today and it won't come off.
yeah the bushing that come with the arm are the easy part.
what i found difficult was cracking the bolt that connects to the wheel hub assembly, even with that special splitter tool , one broke on me and i had to buy a new one for the other side, that’s 1 hard part and 2, extracting the bushing that stays on the car after you remove the arm, that’s the realy hard part , you need a propper bush extractor set to do it.
@@ParallaxVisuals hi, what is the bushing called thats connected to the car? (the one you needed the bush extractor for). I can get the wishbone and control arm bushing in a set, just no idea what the one on the car is called! thanks
@@magoomagoon i got them as a complete set, i suggest you do the same as they will fit together nicely.
@@ParallaxVisuals ah, just ignore me, it is included with the pack... I thought it was a separate bushing!
Too much coffee and not enough sleep is my excuse 😂
Anyway thanks for a great video!
@@magoomagoon good luck fitting it!
Good Video. Mine Wish bones have to be changed as well but they are expensive still even for a 15 year old car. Thank you
if you take care of that 15 yr old car it might last you A LOT of miles.
@@ParallaxVisuals Yes, that is what I am counting on. it has only 60K miles and very clean, its like New.
@@senanfoutchedjev2401 i’m on 170000 miles and it’s flawless so far , as a bonus it qualifies for all the ultra low emission zones ( i’ve got tge 1.8l petrol)
@@ParallaxVisuals Yes, mine is the 1.8 Petrol as well.
@@senanfoutchedjev2401 I only changed mine because the bushings were bad on them.
Technically you can only replace the bushings on them providing that the ball joints on them are still ok.
Good video thanks, I am planning on doing this job soon. Is your bushing push/pull kit one from eBay? Also, could you have gotten better access by lowering the ARB a bit?
yeah the push pull kit is from ebay.
lifesaver kit that is.
what is the arb?
@@ParallaxVisuals Yeah I have that kit now, and the wishbones you recommended so thanks. Just need to fit them... the ARB is the anti-roll bar (the black bar that was in your way)
@@fnstirling i think i’ve actually removed the anti roll bar to have access in the end.
Couple more bolts and you can remove that part of subframe and do this on the bench you need both sides up so the ARB can swing down though
I didn't want to disconnect the brake lines and have to bleed the brakes after.
@@ParallaxVisuals you don't need to touch the brake the piece with the bush pressed into it comes off when you take the arb plates off and unscrew the bolts it doesn't matter for you now jobs done, but for the next guy watching it might be useful. The main point is front suspension jobs lift both sides every time.
hello! @@marcogarofalo6343 this is for the rear not the front. I think you're confusing things. On the rear in order to take the whole torsion bar off you do need to disconnect the brake whoses and the handbrake line.
This video is the front wishbone bushes I think you may be a little confused my friend 😅 haha
ha, you're right@@marcogarofalo6343 it is the front ones:))
Now that you've said it, I wish I'd replaced the bushes instead of the whole wishbone as the new ones broke after 2 years...
Hi, i have a question for you if is possible.. i have the front sospension that has just the back rubber (the one that you can see at minute 5) that is gone.. if i unscrew the 2 bolts (the 19 and 17 bolt that mantein the back rubber of the front suspension on the frame) can i remove it easily from the entire suspension? Because i would like to remove just the 2 bolts and change the back rubber, because the front rubber and the wheel rubber are ok.. i would like yo know if when i unscrew the 17 and 19 bolt is easy yo remove the back rubber.. thank you
I've replaced my whole wishbne assembly, mine came complete with the back rubber bush already pressed in. I did try to press out the old one but failed as it was in there tight. Honestly I think you should remove the whole control arm.
I thought "hey maybe I should change them myself, would really change the ride". Hmm, maybe during the summer .😂
It's not that hard really, especially if you use the screwdriver shoving method:)
Great Job, but will be fantastic if you can add details such as, we're did u bought the bushings, what is the part number ? a link to the tools used will be great as well. I soon have to do the same job on my car which is now 12 yrs old and has 170K but she still runs great, and i intend to reach the full million :)
Broo! you and me both with the million, I', on 195k miles atm but I feel the same way, I just love this car.
Ok so the wishbones in the clip were purchased off ebay, a company called Wishbone Warehouse.
I'm sad to say that I had to replace the drivers side wishbone a while ago because th ball joint developped some play....the other side is fine.... but if you think about it, the original wishbones lasted 15 years and I've replaced them because the bushings went bad on them NOT the balljoints....and these " new "ones lasted not even 2 years.....so suffice to say I won't recomend Wishbone Warehouse :))
The tools I've used are bushing press tools of ebay here:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284354587584?epid=4011591923&hash=item4234daabc0:g:JHAAAOSwypJg3WtX&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OeOaRV4xVcpk1x3abvKN0m4gAMlkdaimecOxI4u4wwVhvGKtHYHSZtx2rJBvWeNlQ%2BA0MGkVzuwhh0kVUeOF4FS6PN03%2B718ROJOGJ0TAobfnU7PK11QLAgai6RJKazjEr%2FKXC9H09CZRGN0NAhrvpDoA9SKQWaekjwWpzvm0fE88SbCgZcLgGGUqhsWUKez6%2BAAeAk5uATl3ytx%2FC0tCVPDAPQ4Z0I1Kz5q0oGOgpWT398emLVy%2FxbFPoG1i12X3bsytj%2BZWaNJ7zpUsyXyM7NXLRdfMskPrjRiunJvuBS%7Ctkp%3ABFBMoruJvPth
@@ParallaxVisuals thank you !
Hope you did ARB bushes at the same time as they're the easiest to do....
yup, I used abs bushes not metal ones.
How did you get the inner bolt (19) out? I tried breaker bar and other methods, but I cant get it out. The 17 (outer bolt) is easy.
I have an extendable ratchet wrench, extended that to the maximum and that did the trick for me.
Usualy when a bolt doesn't want to go out I try the following :
WD40/GT95 spray initially, don't be shy with it, try and get it in any spots you can , try the wrench again, if that fails, get a hammer, hammer the bolt on the sides, top etc, try not to destroy the hex head, try the wrench again, more wd40/gt95 , more banging, try the impact tool.
You'd be surprised what wd40 can do together with a hammer and some persistance.
Your bolt might be rusted on the upper part, that would be the worst case scenario.... i honestly wish it's not that because you'll probably end up breaking it in the whole and would have to re-drill / re-thread the whole thing after.
Good luck!
Thanks, getting myself one of those balljoint seperators, instead of busting out the acetylene :p
Well, it worked for the 1st one xD but the tool exploded on the other side. Ended up using a wrench and a hammering a balljoint seperator fork in underneath it. Two blows and it came apart Pictures : imgur.com/a/Ic3x2Nw
(this kills the grommit if you're just taking it apart)
I had a cheap balljoint sepparator tool, it broke after the first one. I got mad and bought an expensive one from Machine Mart I believe.
That one is still strong to this day and it had some use with various ball joints.
I found that the secret is to tighten the bolt as much as you can and then leave it like that for a minute, spray some wd40 in there and it litteraly pops put, you don't have to tighten it until it pops.
Also don't forget to oil the tightening screw of the tool.
I hope that make s sense.
ey bro, where do u buy the bushing? do you have the oem reference please? thanks u! i need install the same like you thanks!
hello, bought them on ebay, the link is in the description but I had to replace them 2 years later. Buy them from a respectable retailer instead. save yourself the hassle of doing it again later
Did you have any other symptoms besides the noise? My car (2.2 diesel) is pulling annoyingly to the right even after several alignments. Mechanics can't find the problem but I know something is wrong and I suspect that worn bushings are messing up the geometry of the front under some conditions.
i’d say if it’s pulling to one side it might be something to do with the top hat of the shock absorber or the join between the knuckle
and the shock absorber.
It could very well be the bushings messing up the wheel castor .
Mine was making excessive noise hence i’ve replaced them both.
Check the wheel bearing also, that could cause problems as well. you can tell if it has play or if your break pads are worn uneven.
good luck with it!
@@ParallaxVisuals Thank you for the response. The problem is that I changed the shocks and insisted on changing top mounts with bearings so they're new. It got a bit better after this but still has a pull. One alignment shop says it's from cheap tyres which are not perfectly round but rather elyptical. Another says that a car can do this if caster is off (for example if the car was in an accident and one wheel caster is different than the other). But on the alignment machine my car is streight, so I figured that maybe if bushing are bad the whole control arm is moving and distorting caster angle....but I don't know anymore :(
Did you find out what the problem was buddy?
@@reiannaidoo Well, after replacing several items things got a little bit better after each - replacing top mounts, then shocks, then springs. Springs made a very big difference. Last summer I replaced the mentioned bushings and that made the biggest difference (I think). So the problem is mostly solved. Now I just had my steering rack replaced and soon I will get and alignment with camber bolts and adjustment similar to "fast road Setup". Hopefully that will improve things even more.
hi mate. thanks for the great video. can i get the OEM number of the bush that you pressing in ?
Hello! I got the ones in this clip from ebay, wouldnt recomend that tho.
I had to replace them again 2 years later.
Ended up getting them from a local shop here instead.
What is the part name / brand / number?
these ones here from Wishbone Warehouse UK : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-HONDA-CIVIC-MK8-06-12-FRONT-LOWER-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-WISHBONE-ARMS-BUSHES/362470532196?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
This is left side what about right side?? I unscrew screw and hitting some component cant pull it out so I cant remove control
on the other side it’s the same thing.
bare in mind the thread reverses on the other side.
@@ParallaxVisuals I just could not pull screw out coz some engine components there blocking me to doit.. Not sure if I have to remove first ball joint than front bushing (holding on 2 screw) and last one be that one long screw
hi anyone knows wich press set shou i get to do this job?
I've used this one :
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145111876682?hash=item21c957844a:g:kRkAAOSwAkRkdpZv&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NUFh8dMg0%2FQbtUY1%2BEdLIPhOF863EGMsg%2FGYnLK0OfqfacxpwNHEyxw8iiprKhlaV8Lrt%2FjL2%2BLZ1BP4GWXZwzBEwI0KoSWtBaNnmNMKo3M26ZSYLcOKFAmCC2V%2FUIOEqp5yGz61STSwpTKcXdl9vEUtkcJMI0VP73u3Nj1oIvizqbApsyQONkq9y3UQ4nKdIQnAPynEbllFX8kSTOb0dJqVu2DahCMUbR%2BIWJDGrFPPNxCZtlqne1qrpJLdokcQhi9TQ3swJ1Njl4t%2FHjzSvboZSQe1WfeOAJrPRr90TzV%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9yHlbPcYg
BUT you'll need to make another bigger cillinder for the receiving end of the bushing.
Thats not a FN2. The FN2 is only the Type R.
it's possible to change the ball joint alone?
not in Eu/UK models sadly
@@ParallaxVisuals thank you for reply, unfortunately I bought the wrong ones, the black ones, and I was trying to see if I can change only the bushings and the ball joint, but it's sad that you can't . Thank you for the video, is the only video with this kind of arms for this car 😊
What the hell with the compressor, man?!
yeah, it's the opposite of quiet that compressor, sadly i needed it for my impact wrench.
8:37 Your Drive Shaft is Broken (Mine is broken in same place) At the end of the Drive Shaft Dampener
yeah, that’s pretty common.
that dampener gets damaged water builds up there and it literally eats the metal
shaft away.
This is another thing on the list to replace on cars say after 12 years from the factory production date.
@@ParallaxVisuals Ive been out of MOT since 6th and finally the drive shaft has been delivered. I first thought to slide the dampener over the crack, get my MOT and then replace in due time (avoid pumps meanwhile lol). oh well... Good luck with yours
@@ParallaxVisuals Hi, can you tell me how hard it is to just replace the S shaped bushing encased in metal that is on one end of the control arm. I purchased just that part instead of the whole arm. Am in two minds to replace that or sell it on and buy the whole control arm (my ball joint might be bad). I suppose I will decide that when I replace the drive shaft and see state of ball joint.
@@MMD-z6z honeslty I recommend replacing the whole control arm .
It’s easier than taking the bushes out.