Hi, Patrick...thank you for your video, that's indeed impressive, this week is my first to see that "thermal run away" since I've shifted from the HA210N06 N-channel MOSFET with the HY5608; to overcome the former component over heating problem. Then after observations I've found out that this message also displays when "power supply inefficiency" emerge, that means the power supply is struggling to provide both bed and hot end when that happen during printing, Voila, here is the blue screen again... As remedy to this problem I've substituted my power supply with another one delivering enough juice in therm of current flow according to the system requirement.
Thanks! Helpful video.. i ran into the same issue, ordered a new thermistor because that's what I thought it was, turns out when I opened it up, on of the cables (same one on yours) tore off from the solder, I should have checked it first because my gut was telling me that. Thanks again for the excellent video!
I am glad the video helped you out. Also, its good to have some extra parts. I have had to replace the thermistor on mine, in fact when I order replacement parts I usually order 2 of them so I have a backup :)
I replaced my MK3 heat bed wires with Silicon flex wires for heat beds you can find them on Ebay. Also dump the filament core and plastic spiral wrap and just use a electrical cloth wrap, this will let the wires to flex more evenly and reduce the work that the Y stepper has to do to move the stiff heat bed wires around. I did a video on this back when Prusa came out with the changes to the heat bed and the hot end assembly.
I did the same 3 years ago and not had a problem since. I'm having a problem with the hotend now so I'm looking to track down that. Ultraflex Silicon wire is the best
@@dee5556 When I had a problem with the hot end it ended up being a intermittent heater element. Not the wires running to the element but inside the element it's self. Took some time to find that one. Its faster to just replace the element and parts.
I havent done any maintainence on my Prusa Mk2 since 2018 and it prints beautifully every day. I tell a lie, I greased the linear bearings last week. Thats it though.
Just bolt the wires onto the heatbed like Prusa did. The parts that are under constant movement strain need to be mechanically secured. Simply drill holes for small bolts on the copper contacts, crimp lugs onto the wires, and bolt the wires on. It's a permanent fix.
Great video most likely you can do the same upgrade buy drilling small holes on the bed pads and get the cables or buy a crimping tool and crimp your own cable terminals.
Nice you fixed it. Does your bed led work, as you soldered the cables in opposite way as before. This is not an issue for the bed as it is a big (mean shape not its resistance) resistor but the led has an anode and a cathode so wiring for this one matters.
I did not think about that I will have to go look at it after I get it back together. Of course I can just reverse the cords as they are connected to the motherboard (if fact I may have accidentally done that)
Hi, Patrick...thank you for your video, that's indeed impressive, this week is my first to see that "thermal run away" since I've shifted from the HA210N06 N-channel MOSFET with the HY5608; to overcome the former component over heating problem. Then after observations I've found out that this message also displays when "power supply inefficiency" emerge, that means the power supply is struggling to provide both bed and hot end when that happen during printing,
Voila, here is the blue screen again...
As remedy to this problem I've substituted my power supply with another one delivering enough juice in therm of current flow according to the system requirement.
Thanks! Helpful video.. i ran into the same issue, ordered a new thermistor because that's what I thought it was, turns out when I opened it up, on of the cables (same one on yours) tore off from the solder, I should have checked it first because my gut was telling me that. Thanks again for the excellent video!
I am glad the video helped you out.
Also, its good to have some extra parts.
I have had to replace the thermistor on mine, in fact when I order replacement parts I usually order 2 of them so I have a backup :)
I replaced my MK3 heat bed wires with Silicon flex wires for heat beds you can find them on Ebay. Also dump the filament core and plastic spiral wrap and just use a electrical cloth wrap, this will let the wires to flex more evenly and reduce the work that the Y stepper has to do to move the stiff heat bed wires around. I did a video on this back when Prusa came out with the changes to the heat bed and the hot end assembly.
Cool found the video th-cam.com/video/M6TsgB9yxXw/w-d-xo.html
I did the same 3 years ago and not had a problem since. I'm having a problem with the hotend now so I'm looking to track down that. Ultraflex Silicon wire is the best
@@dee5556 When I had a problem with the hot end it ended up being a intermittent heater element. Not the wires running to the element but inside the element it's self. Took some time to find that one. Its faster to just replace the element and parts.
Glad you found and fixed the break ... John Q
Thanks for your advice before that led me down this path to finding the real problem
I havent done any maintainence on my Prusa Mk2 since 2018 and it prints beautifully every day. I tell a lie, I greased the linear bearings last week. Thats it though.
This video it’s really helpful, thank you
I am glad you liked it :)
Just bolt the wires onto the heatbed like Prusa did. The parts that are under constant movement strain need to be mechanically secured. Simply drill holes for small bolts on the copper contacts, crimp lugs onto the wires, and bolt the wires on. It's a permanent fix.
Great video most likely you can do the same upgrade buy drilling small holes on the bed pads and get the cables or buy a crimping tool and crimp your own cable terminals.
That thought crossed my mind...
Just a little to chicken to try it out ;)
Nice you fixed it. Does your bed led work, as you soldered the cables in opposite way as before. This is not an issue for the bed as it is a big (mean shape not its resistance) resistor but the led has an anode and a cathode so wiring for this one matters.
I did not think about that I will have to go look at it after I get it back together.
Of course I can just reverse the cords as they are connected to the motherboard (if fact I may have accidentally done that)
Thank you for sharing ，
mean while may i know what software you use for the recording?
I use Camtasia
Get a pair of alligator clips and slip them on your probes. Easy no hands testing.