Thanks, few vids out there in English dealing with the Himalayan cone set adjust. The Himmy has the design challenge of the cable resistance. With many other bikes like the Harley, the cables are free and not touching the forks. That has been my biggest challenge in trying to get a good adjustment, the forks always ended up too loose and clunking when riding over rocks and such. I brought the bike to a motorcycle mechanic friend and he had the same problem. So instead of trying to get it right on the bench, I simply did as you said and tightened it down, backed off until it was moving freely and it clunked less. So did the procedure again and rode the bike until the noise stopped. The forks ended up feeling a little tighter than I would like, but it is what it is. The most important indicator is that the bearing assembly is not rattling around on rough surfaces. A tighter adjustment makes the bike a little more stable on highways and less nimble like you would want on a Ninja or sport bike. Anyhow well done and helpful vid. But like I said, the Himmy distinct design makes the adjustment a little more challenging than most other bikes.
True mate, that has been the biggest issue. There is a lengthy workaround which involves detatching as many cables and hoses, but too tedious. I am glad you were able to resolve the issue without going through all of that ;) Cheers
@@leuheanrede Almost, It began clunking again so I am going to have to adjust them after only a couple more weeks of light street riding. I believe when the mechanic replaced the bearings, they were not seated correctly. So with riding over bumpy surfaces the bearings are pushed further into the seat, loosen up, and then begin rattling. This might be a problem with the seats themselves. The original race went bad after only 3,000km which is highly unusual for any bike. But I will simply tighten down the bearing, back off, and repeat what you suggested until the problem is finally resolved. Sometimes we simply need to be aware of the symptoms, analyze the likely problem and persist correcting the symptoms until we have resolution.
Hahaha, thanks brother, but i say, its still getting through to fellow riders no. Idea is always to keep the bike rolling and riders happy :), none the less, super super thanks for sticking around for so long and motivating me all the way, Sincere thanks bro. :)
Hello mate! I just want to tell you this. When I bought my Himma last year, I don't even know how to turn a bolt in a bike whether clockwise or anticlockwise to open it! And that's when I found your channel. I have been following your videos since then. And now this week, I have done 90% of the third service which is mentioned in the periodical maintenance of the owners manual all by myself on my Himma! And that has become possible because of YOU ❤️ & an another nice youtuber! Just steering bearings check & throttle body cleaning is all left! Man, I just wanted to let you know that you are helping someone with all the knowledge you learnt and virtually being a Guru to someone like me who lives on the opposite side of our country! ❤️ I wish I meet you one day and shake a hand with you and say looooots of thanks!!! ❤️
Helo mate and brother, such such kind words you have spoken, you cant even believe how much it means, you were so so kind, Thanks a ton bro. Idea has always been to keep things simple and also keep every Himalayan and their owner happly so that proper and timely maintenance can keep the cost low and also pro long the service and replacement interval in check. So kindly you have spoken, I thank you again :) For any particular issues or query feel free to shoot a email - solacedrecluser@hotmail.com Lets keep our rides on road and out of service center, Thanks a ton mate :D Happy DIYing and happy riding, cheers :)
@@blackspark3 good general rule is lefty loosey, righty tighty, unless its the crankshaft nut, thats a left hand threaded one, but if you are in there you have major trouble. Glad you are getting confidence about doing the basic servicing yourself. Remember, if you don't know, ask before doing, it can save you a lot of money.
@@mattyb7736Yes, that's a good advice, Lefty loosey... I learned it quickly when I started to work. But before doing this service, I had few stripped & broken bolts not because of how to turn it but because of using wrong tools. I learnt from my mistakes & realised it's important to have quality and right tools. So started investing on it. And it helped during this service. And that last line, I second that. 👍🏽
@@blackspark3 I can't stress enough the importance of spending money on good quality tools. As you have found out, using the wrong, or poor quality ones can get expensive in replacement parts costs. As the old saying goes "experience costs, but the knowledge is priceless "
in my new gixxer after refilling fork oil, the bike started to pull towards right side. i feel it difficult to overtake and less confident. the show room guy also couldn't fix.
I see that you have replaced your brake cables with steel ones. Could you tell me how you procured those steel lines and the brand. I am skeptical on the length of aftermarket ones because of variation of length sometimes. HEL cables are a lil too expensive.
hey mate, trust me when i say this, its all about being cost effective. and on that note, just buy the parts from RE, these cables included. there are a lot of vids on why and how to get the super expensive part fitted. but trust me OEM parts almost always can get the job done, some with extra looking after, but they will hold no less. cheers :)
@@amaanmohammad1190 no no, don't get me wrong, they are already fitted with steel braided lines from factory. I just meant to recommend that we shouldn't go for after market ones. I case a replacement is required, sticking with original steel braided ones from RE service center will be really cost effective ;) cheers
Small tip for Himalayan Rider... try to Use NTN cone set bearing... its really smooth :) . .. where to find this spanner for Handle ??? .. thanks for such informative videos
bro I have a new Honda CB350RS and only 1300kms completed. There was a clicking noise rarely in steering. Visited service center and they tightened the steering. thereafter my vehicle goes out of balance even in slight rough roads. any advise please
Hey mate, yes that means its loose and needs proper adjustment. but remember if its starts to bind that might mean its too tight. Also a closer inspection for conset is important to see if its within service-able limit. Cheers :)
@@leuheanrede whenever I do hard my handle noise problem get solved but then it's getting very hard , and after some time handle get loose after a week
I am seeing same problem. The right side movement is not as free as left side when put in double stand. Km -6500 & no click sound Do I need the replacement of bearings or can be adjusted ?
The fork stem on my himalayan is not aligned to the triple clamp. It is slightly protruding out by 2 mm.. also the left fork stem is little higher than the right stem by 1 mm.. is that ok?
Thank-you for another useful video man. I haven't done that adjustment on my Himalayan yet but I've done it on another bike of mine, and what I did was to loosen the *bottom* steering plate pinch bolts rather than the top ones, to make the system free to move up and down. Are there any particular reason why you went for the top plate instead? Just curious.
Hey mate, you did it absolutely right. Idea is that they should be easy to rotate, the only caveat is that if you do it by lifting the front wheel and loosen the top bracket, it makes the torsional forces rightly applied to the bottom bearing thus applying the correct amount and making it easier to get it right on the first go. The way you did it is good but might need minor tweeks later, thats it ;) cheers :)
Hi, my handlebar had wobbling issues after 80. Today my mechanic loosened the coneset and wobbling disappeared. 😮 Normally it has to be tightened right
Hahaha, yes indeed, the bike is holding up nicely thus far but few mods kinda DIYS are on the way, I did one on cleaning the fuel filter too. the link - th-cam.com/video/p7fjxNhw3nI/w-d-xo.html but more's on the way, Thanks and cheers :)
have you ever had this issue when taking your hands of the handlebar while driving, the motorcycle immediately start leaning to the right! Me and a couple of friends with Himalayans have this same issue and searching what could be the cause of that. I'm talking about completely new Euro5 Himalayans that have this issue from day 1.
Hey mate, here you go, seems unavailable at the moment and also the link is for 32 and 40 mm but we just need 32 mm for steering stem, 40 can come in handy for rear suspension but 32 will do the same with minor fiddling. cheers :) www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07PKLRHCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Big fan of yours. And I just received my Himalayan. I wanted to ask you if I should go ahead and use Motul instead of liquid gun. Svc said they'll let me put it, but if in case something goes wrong with the engine, RE will not let me claim warranty. What should i do? What engine oil you use?
Hey mate, thanks :). and congrats, great bike, just small maintenance bits now and then and you will sure see many many happy miles ;) About Motul, there is a problem, I hope I can explain it. So keeping it short, all engine oils tend to evaporate( without getting into details), some evaporate less, some evaporate more. Even in Motul the perticular series 300v 15w50, is the one that I have been using for decades now, its a gem of an oil but when it comes to evaporation, it is quite significant. So where normal oil would evaporate say 100 ml in 1000-2000 kms, 300v would evaporate 100 ml in 500 to 700 kms. That said, where liquid gun would evaporate about say 200 to 250 ml in 5000 kms, Motul 300v would evaporate about 400 to 500, roughly speaking. Its not a problem considering the smoothness but can be very expensive as regular check and topup is required. If missed, any engine running on lower than required level of oil will prematurely wear out the internal running parts and can even lead to catastrophic engine failures. Trust me there are plenty of cases. Every manufacture recommends checking up oil level every 500 to 1000 kms and topping up as and when required. So say if our engine takes 1600 ml of oil we need to buy and stock extra 1000 ml (1 ltrs) for topping up requirements. Again it all depends on how we ride, if we are always revving it to redline, figures will vary drastically as more heat means more evaporation. so whenever moving out of manufactures recommendation, extra diligence and check and if found low, a topup before every ride is required. Most of us dont want to go into that kind of commitment, its understandable too :) Other oils from Motul like 5100 and 7100 are slightly better when it comes to evaporation but not even close to the smoothness level of 300 v. I can go on and on but let me tell you that I dont take my bikes to service center, ever, ever. Most of them have are over 50000 kms and running on 300v from day one pretty much, rest are running on 5100 or 7100, yes topup as said is quite often in case of 300v when compared to rest, but wont change it for anything :D, always stock a liter or even 2 and never miss checking and topping up if required before every ride. A bit excessive I know, but well worth in long run as I dont buy bikes to sell, they are all keepers. Was I scared by service center guys, yes you bet. I was just there to buy oil filter for first service and the service manager just lashed out saying why are you not bringing it here, i narrated how I always service at home, his next question, which oil? my reply, motul and as expected, he said engine will fail and seize. I even posted a video of the story :) - th-cam.com/video/ekHPqQKgVKc/w-d-xo.html 20000 kms on till date, daily commutes and tours to extreme places, no complains, I can tell you this though that last year ride to Sach pass, Zanskar and Leh and back total 2800 kms done and by the end of journey 500-600 ml was topped up. Yes indeed, extra oil is on the top of my list when touring. Last thing. RE recommends change interval of 10000 kms, I have never stretched beyond 5000 kms change interval and never will. All this being said, i am so so sorry, as I cant answer the question directly :D Sincere apologies, Cheers
@@leuheanrede I read your reply last night but didn't have the reply to justify the effort you put in replying to me. Even if I had half your knowledge and skills regarding motorcycle, I could have gone ahead and chosen to not follow RE SVCs. But since I am dearly lacking in DIY, I have no option but to follow the svc like a sheep. Maybe one day when I'm confident in my motorcycle knowledge and skills I can go down the path you have. Till then i need to tell myself that Liquid gun is only mildly inferior to Motul 5100.
@@hemantakaushik4635 I forgot so say congrats mate. Edited later but still many congrats. And to be honest I don't know that much :) I believe I could have kept the reply short by just saying that whatever oil is being used, just keep an eye on oil and do make it a good practice to top up. Rest is all easy ;) cheers
@@leuheanrede I plan to use the oil provided by the svc and keep a litre of that with me to top up. And yes. Thank you. Keep up your good work. We're always there to appreciate it.
@@hemantakaushik4635 thanks mate🤓 and yes that is a good practice to keep engine at its healthiest. Enjoy this magnificent machine, happy riding. Cheers
This is slightly off topic but have you ever experienced palm pain while riding the Himalayan ( throttle hand ) , my throttle hand gets sore sometimes after riding in traffic ( repeated front brake use ) . I checked if the handle is bent. If the throttle is tight or if the brake lever is tight. Seems like I'll have to get an adjustable brake lever for easier reach . Any idea what might be causing the trouble?
Hey mate, yes same thing happened to me too, I tried to move the brake and clutch lever but found that they were interfering with the switchgear assembly. Now moving those switch gear assembly was kinda tricky as they come with a small tab inside them that sits on the holes on the handle bar on each side. There was no other option but to take those tabs out. And since that day, every thing was easy peasy :). Two vids I did on the same, hopefully they make sense ;) cheers th-cam.com/video/mL2SvD191xI/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/sQ6_DzmYWto/w-d-xo.html
Hey amte, same thing happen to me, th-cam.com/video/4lBFTqSN2SA/w-d-xo.html :) It did take some time for the rear seat to arrive, I suggest you wait for it, second option is gonna be coslty but you can also look for touring accessory rear seat that is about 2300 approx. but trust me, wait for the stock one to arrive, keep touring seat as last option. Cheers :)
Thanks mate, really glad you found them useful. Idea is to keep it simple and keep the bike out of showroom, no less keep the cost managed too ;). yes please do contact for any queries by shooting a mail to - solacedrecluser@hotmail.com cheers :)
Thanks mate, but you are being too kind :) I am just sharing little basic so that hopefully the bike and rider can keep enjoying this simple brilliant machine:)
Thanks mate, I wanted to cover as many basic points as possible, I thinks I still missed 1 or 2 but no less, thanks and glad you found this useful. Cheers :)
Hey buddy, really appreciate your channel, very very informative and to the point, I’ve found solutions to all my problems in your posted videos. I too am a Himalayan owner, I’ve been facing one major issue in my bike is the fuel economy issue, on highway I hardly achieve a 25km/l and city economy is just bizarre. What could be the possibile issues? I’ve tried nomatter what but never crossed a 25km average. Hoping for a response from your end. Thanks for these amazing videos btw :)
Hey mate, really glad you have found these vids useful :) and for fuel economy, city riding at paces about 70-80 can get us about 28-32 so 25 is slightly worrisome. I would start with changing to new air filter along with correct gapping of spark plug, if beyond spec, spark needs to be changed too, Bosch UR5CC is stock one. Also how many kms has the bike done, please do let me know, how the first 2 steps go. as it can be slightly long process as I cant ride the bike online and pin point the issue, but checking that clutch plates are in good health, idle setting, TPS setting and throttle body cleaning would be the following steps, cheers :)
@@leuheanrede Hey, the bike is ridden 16000 KMS i had a look at the filter, it seems pretty decent, just that the casing has some rust, so maybe due to water penetration, is it required to change the filter if it had gotten wet? Talking about The spark plug, i do not face any issues while ignition, the bike starts on my first attempt, but will still have a look. For the clutch plates also will have to have a look. Idle is at about 1.2k rpm as the manual suggests also. Thanks for the points will definitely look. What is the ideal fuel economy for a Himalayan, city and highway
Hey, If the basic checks are good, next thing will be checking for valve clearance, improper or out of spec can again lead to low fuel economy. And may I recommend changing the air filter, slight penetration is ok but if it was proper wet, the mesh would have thinned and hardened thus adversely affecting the airflow. As for fuel economy, not sure what others are getting but it does depend on riding style and riding condition too. I have managed to squeeze out best of 32 to 34 kmpl on occasions when riding sedately and worst of 18 to 20 kmpl when going nuts :D cheer :)
most helpful video ever, these mechanics in the showroom don't even know how to do this properly🙌
Thanks, few vids out there in English dealing with the Himalayan cone set adjust. The Himmy has the design challenge of the cable resistance. With many other bikes like the Harley, the cables are free and not touching the forks. That has been my biggest challenge in trying to get a good adjustment, the forks always ended up too loose and clunking when riding over rocks and such. I brought the bike to a motorcycle mechanic friend and he had the same problem. So instead of trying to get it right on the bench, I simply did as you said and tightened it down, backed off until it was moving freely and it clunked less. So did the procedure again and rode the bike until the noise stopped. The forks ended up feeling a little tighter than I would like, but it is what it is. The most important indicator is that the bearing assembly is not rattling around on rough surfaces. A tighter adjustment makes the bike a little more stable on highways and less nimble like you would want on a Ninja or sport bike. Anyhow well done and helpful vid. But like I said, the Himmy distinct design makes the adjustment a little more challenging than most other bikes.
True mate, that has been the biggest issue. There is a lengthy workaround which involves detatching as many cables and hoses, but too tedious.
I am glad you were able to resolve the issue without going through all of that ;)
Cheers
@@leuheanrede Almost, It began clunking again so I am going to have to adjust them after only a couple more weeks of light street riding. I believe when the mechanic replaced the bearings, they were not seated correctly. So with riding over bumpy surfaces the bearings are pushed further into the seat, loosen up, and then begin rattling. This might be a problem with the seats themselves. The original race went bad after only 3,000km which is highly unusual for any bike. But I will simply tighten down the bearing, back off, and repeat what you suggested until the problem is finally resolved. Sometimes we simply need to be aware of the symptoms, analyze the likely problem and persist correcting the symptoms until we have resolution.
This channel is so underrated.
Hahaha, thanks brother, but i say, its still getting through to fellow riders no. Idea is always to keep the bike rolling and riders happy :), none the less, super super thanks for sticking around for so long and motivating me all the way, Sincere thanks bro. :)
This is great, are you on instagram bro?
@@cptpug hey mate, I am on insta by the same name leuheanrede or solaced recluser. Cheers and happy DIYing :)
You know himalayan better than royal enfield himself. Thanks buddy.
Hello mate! I just want to tell you this.
When I bought my Himma last year, I don't even know how to turn a bolt in a bike whether clockwise or anticlockwise to open it!
And that's when I found your channel. I have been following your videos since then.
And now this week, I have done 90% of the third service which is mentioned in the periodical maintenance of the owners manual all by myself on my Himma! And that has become possible because of YOU ❤️ & an another nice youtuber!
Just steering bearings check & throttle body cleaning is all left!
Man, I just wanted to let you know that you are helping someone with all the knowledge you learnt and virtually being a Guru to someone like me who lives on the opposite side of our country! ❤️
I wish I meet you one day and shake a hand with you and say looooots of thanks!!! ❤️
Helo mate and brother, such such kind words you have spoken, you cant even believe how much it means, you were so so kind, Thanks a ton bro.
Idea has always been to keep things simple and also keep every Himalayan and their owner happly so that proper and timely maintenance can keep the cost low and also pro long the service and replacement interval in check. So kindly you have spoken, I thank you again :)
For any particular issues or query feel free to shoot a email - solacedrecluser@hotmail.com
Lets keep our rides on road and out of service center, Thanks a ton mate :D Happy DIYing and happy riding, cheers :)
@@leuheanrede I now enjoy working with my bike as much as I was riding with it. And you taught me that. So, you deserve all such kind words! 🤩
@@blackspark3 good general rule is lefty loosey, righty tighty, unless its the crankshaft nut, thats a left hand threaded one, but if you are in there you have major trouble. Glad you are getting confidence about doing the basic servicing yourself. Remember, if you don't know, ask before doing, it can save you a lot of money.
@@mattyb7736Yes, that's a good advice, Lefty loosey... I learned it quickly when I started to work. But before doing this service, I had few stripped & broken bolts not because of how to turn it but because of using wrong tools. I learnt from my mistakes & realised it's important to have quality and right tools. So started investing on it. And it helped during this service.
And that last line, I second that. 👍🏽
@@blackspark3 I can't stress enough the importance of spending money on good quality tools. As you have found out, using the wrong, or poor quality ones can get expensive in replacement parts costs. As the old saying goes "experience costs, but the knowledge is priceless "
Many of the guys at the service centre also don't know this adjustment !! Thanks man
My pleasure mate. Thanks and happy DIYing. Cheers🙂
U rock man ...I literally learned everything about my Himalayan from ur videos...keep up the good work...👍👍👍🎉🎊
Thanks mate, Really glad to hear it, Its a lovely machine that just needs minor tweaking ;) cheers
Hello from Brazil! Thank you for share your knowledge about the Himalayan!
Thanks mate, really kind of you and really glad you found this useful :) cheers
Thanks for another no nonsense diy video, really useful.
Thanks again mate :) trying to keep thing to the point and thus simple, your motivation keeps me on track ;) thanks again, cheers :)
Very informative video i was searching this thing for long time. Thanks
Thanks mate, I am glad you found this useful. Cheers 🙂
Bro I am getting Tak Tak sound from the front what should the sound about plz let me know
@@vinitsawant1984 check for lose conset, then other lose nuts or bolts
Bro which size of c spanner?
32
Hey 32mm right? He also mentioned 25mm in the comments thats why i was confused. @@adhitya8870
Bro does using aom nylon cone set cap makes it more smooth with tight cone set
Clear the concept of this cone set Thankyou
Your my Godsend Bike care teacher😉
Hey mate, naah, just sharing a little i know, but glad you found it useful, cheers :)
All content is very informative. Thank you for taught me.
Thanks mate, I am really glad you have found these useful, have a good one ;) cheers
Can someone tell me what is the size and dimension of the hex socket cap bolts ? M8x50 or M8x30 ? Need it as I may have almost rounded off one.
Thats m8 30 mm mate👍
Thanks mate ! @@leuheanrede
in my new gixxer after refilling fork oil, the bike started to pull towards right side. i feel it difficult to overtake and less confident. the show room guy also couldn't fix.
I see that you have replaced your brake cables with steel ones. Could you tell me how you procured those steel lines and the brand. I am skeptical on the length of aftermarket ones because of variation of length sometimes. HEL cables are a lil too expensive.
hey mate, trust me when i say this, its all about being cost effective. and on that note, just buy the parts from RE, these cables included. there are a lot of vids on why and how to get the super expensive part fitted. but trust me OEM parts almost always can get the job done, some with extra looking after, but they will hold no less. cheers :)
@@leuheanrede You wouldn't recommend steel lines then ?
@@amaanmohammad1190 no no, don't get me wrong, they are already fitted with steel braided lines from factory. I just meant to recommend that we shouldn't go for after market ones. I case a replacement is required, sticking with original steel braided ones from RE service center will be really cost effective ;) cheers
Small tip for Himalayan Rider... try to Use NTN cone set bearing... its really smooth :) . .. where to find this spanner for Handle ??? .. thanks for such informative videos
Thanks mate, indeed, I have those in stock, next time I have to change them I will certainly go for after market ones, cheers :)
bro I have a new Honda CB350RS and only 1300kms completed. There was a clicking noise rarely in steering. Visited service center and they tightened the steering. thereafter my vehicle goes out of balance even in slight rough roads. any advise please
Bro conset tools link❤
Is there any possibility of the cone set making weird vibrating sound? On slow speeds?
Hey mate, yes that means its loose and needs proper adjustment. but remember if its starts to bind that might mean its too tight. Also a closer inspection for conset is important to see if its within service-able limit.
Cheers :)
@@leuheanrede Thanks for your inputs buddy!
My pleasure mate ;)
My apache make ghat ghat noise from handle whenever i rode on off-road pot hole and some time when i press brake hard
Hi mate, get coneset checked and adjusted. Cheers
@@leuheanrede whenever I do hard my handle noise problem get solved but then it's getting very hard , and after some time handle get loose after a week
I am seeing same problem. The right side movement is not as free as left side when put in double stand.
Km -6500 & no click sound
Do I need the replacement of bearings or can be adjusted ?
The fork stem on my himalayan is not aligned to the triple clamp. It is slightly protruding out by 2 mm.. also the left fork stem is little higher than the right stem by 1 mm.. is that ok?
I can feel my bike wobbling up and own even on straight road i can feel the tyers wobbling up and down can it be this problem?
Check wheel alignment
Thank-you for another useful video man. I haven't done that adjustment on my Himalayan yet but I've done it on another bike of mine, and what I did was to loosen the *bottom* steering plate pinch bolts rather than the top ones, to make the system free to move up and down. Are there any particular reason why you went for the top plate instead? Just curious.
Hey mate, you did it absolutely right. Idea is that they should be easy to rotate, the only caveat is that if you do it by lifting the front wheel and loosen the top bracket, it makes the torsional forces rightly applied to the bottom bearing thus applying the correct amount and making it easier to get it right on the first go. The way you did it is good but might need minor tweeks later, thats it ;) cheers :)
Should handelbar be too free?
Very well explained 👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻
Thanks mate, happy DIYing, cheers
Hi, my handlebar had wobbling issues after 80. Today my mechanic loosened the coneset and wobbling disappeared. 😮 Normally it has to be tightened right
After long time service video❤️😍😍
Hahaha, yes indeed, the bike is holding up nicely thus far but few mods kinda DIYS are on the way, I did one on cleaning the fuel filter too. the link - th-cam.com/video/p7fjxNhw3nI/w-d-xo.html
but more's on the way, Thanks and cheers :)
@@leuheanrede ❤️❤️
Sir I have the problem too wit the coneset but I am not getting the c spanner.. So can u help me to get it... Please
Hey brother, can you please mention the size of the c spanner, to adjust the T stem ?
32
have you ever had this issue when taking your hands of the handlebar while driving, the motorcycle immediately start leaning to the right! Me and a couple of friends with Himalayans have this same issue and searching what could be the cause of that. I'm talking about completely new Euro5 Himalayans that have this issue from day 1.
Same here man..got any fix to it
Kindly share the link to purchase that c wrench of yours
Hey mate, here you go, seems unavailable at the moment and also the link is for 32 and 40 mm but we just need 32 mm for steering stem, 40 can come in handy for rear suspension but 32 will do the same with minor fiddling. cheers :)
www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07PKLRHCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@leuheanrede thank you so much
Thank you for this video my friend, cordially François
Thanks mate, glad you found this useful. Happy DIYing, cheers :)
Big fan of yours. And I just received my Himalayan. I wanted to ask you if I should go ahead and use Motul instead of liquid gun. Svc said they'll let me put it, but if in case something goes wrong with the engine, RE will not let me claim warranty. What should i do? What engine oil you use?
Hey mate, thanks :). and congrats, great bike, just small maintenance bits now and then and you will sure see many many happy miles ;)
About Motul, there is a problem, I hope I can explain it. So keeping it short, all engine oils tend to evaporate( without getting into details), some evaporate less, some evaporate more. Even in Motul the perticular series 300v 15w50, is the one that I have been using for decades now, its a gem of an oil but when it comes to evaporation, it is quite significant. So where normal oil would evaporate say 100 ml in 1000-2000 kms, 300v would evaporate 100 ml in 500 to 700 kms.
That said, where liquid gun would evaporate about say 200 to 250 ml in 5000 kms, Motul 300v would evaporate about 400 to 500, roughly speaking.
Its not a problem considering the smoothness but can be very expensive as regular check and topup is required. If missed, any engine running on lower than required level of oil will prematurely wear out the internal running parts and can even lead to catastrophic engine failures.
Trust me there are plenty of cases.
Every manufacture recommends checking up oil level every 500 to 1000 kms and topping up as and when required. So say if our engine takes 1600 ml of oil we need to buy and stock extra 1000 ml (1 ltrs) for topping up requirements.
Again it all depends on how we ride, if we are always revving it to redline, figures will vary drastically as more heat means more evaporation.
so whenever moving out of manufactures recommendation, extra diligence and check and if found low, a topup before every ride is required. Most of us dont want to go into that kind of commitment, its understandable too :)
Other oils from Motul like 5100 and 7100 are slightly better when it comes to evaporation but not even close to the smoothness level of 300 v.
I can go on and on but let me tell you that I dont take my bikes to service center, ever, ever. Most of them have are over 50000 kms and running on 300v from day one pretty much, rest are running on 5100 or 7100, yes topup as said is quite often in case of 300v when compared to rest, but wont change it for anything :D, always stock a liter or even 2 and never miss checking and topping up if required before every ride. A bit excessive I know, but well worth in long run as I dont buy bikes to sell, they are all keepers.
Was I scared by service center guys, yes you bet. I was just there to buy oil filter for first service and the service manager just lashed out saying why are you not bringing it here, i narrated how I always service at home, his next question, which oil? my reply, motul and as expected, he said engine will fail and seize.
I even posted a video of the story :) - th-cam.com/video/ekHPqQKgVKc/w-d-xo.html
20000 kms on till date, daily commutes and tours to extreme places, no complains, I can tell you this though that last year ride to Sach pass, Zanskar and Leh and back total 2800 kms done and by the end of journey 500-600 ml was topped up. Yes indeed, extra oil is on the top of my list when touring.
Last thing. RE recommends change interval of 10000 kms, I have never stretched beyond 5000 kms change interval and never will.
All this being said, i am so so sorry, as I cant answer the question directly :D
Sincere apologies, Cheers
@@leuheanrede I read your reply last night but didn't have the reply to justify the effort you put in replying to me. Even if I had half your knowledge and skills regarding motorcycle, I could have gone ahead and chosen to not follow RE SVCs. But since I am dearly lacking in DIY, I have no option but to follow the svc like a sheep. Maybe one day when I'm confident in my motorcycle knowledge and skills I can go down the path you have. Till then i need to tell myself that Liquid gun is only mildly inferior to Motul 5100.
@@hemantakaushik4635 I forgot so say congrats mate. Edited later but still many congrats. And to be honest I don't know that much :)
I believe I could have kept the reply short by just saying that whatever oil is being used, just keep an eye on oil and do make it a good practice to top up. Rest is all easy ;) cheers
@@leuheanrede I plan to use the oil provided by the svc and keep a litre of that with me to top up.
And yes. Thank you. Keep up your good work. We're always there to appreciate it.
@@hemantakaushik4635 thanks mate🤓 and yes that is a good practice to keep engine at its healthiest. Enjoy this magnificent machine, happy riding. Cheers
post a link or send me a link for tank knee pads you have on your bike. I will get them.
Hello Sir, yes sent, will be working on that other thing too, do check you email ;) i am a bit lazy in doing that :D cheers :)
After tightening the lock nut the handle becomes again tighter
This is slightly off topic but have you ever experienced palm pain while riding the Himalayan ( throttle hand ) , my throttle hand gets sore sometimes after riding in traffic ( repeated front brake use ) . I checked if the handle is bent. If the throttle is tight or if the brake lever is tight. Seems like I'll have to get an adjustable brake lever for easier reach . Any idea what might be causing the trouble?
Hey mate, yes same thing happened to me too, I tried to move the brake and clutch lever but found that they were interfering with the switchgear assembly. Now moving those switch gear assembly was kinda tricky as they come with a small tab inside them that sits on the holes on the handle bar on each side. There was no other option but to take those tabs out. And since that day, every thing was easy peasy :). Two vids I did on the same, hopefully they make sense ;) cheers
th-cam.com/video/mL2SvD191xI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/sQ6_DzmYWto/w-d-xo.html
@@leuheanrede thanks a lot . I'll check them out asap.
@@madhav5955 😊🙂
Sir I had lost my rear seat sir .... it’s been 3 months ... still no response from RE ... any idea sir 😬 about the product available outside
Hey amte, same thing happen to me, th-cam.com/video/4lBFTqSN2SA/w-d-xo.html :)
It did take some time for the rear seat to arrive, I suggest you wait for it, second option is gonna be coslty but you can also look for touring accessory rear seat that is about 2300 approx. but trust me, wait for the stock one to arrive, keep touring seat as last option. Cheers :)
Hi Leuheanrede as always great information. You are my go to guy when I work on my Himi. Is there anyway I could make contact with you?
Thanks mate, really glad you found them useful. Idea is to keep it simple and keep the bike out of showroom, no less keep the cost managed too ;). yes please do contact for any queries by shooting a mail to - solacedrecluser@hotmail.com
cheers :)
Another amazing video👍👍
Thanks sism glad you enjoyed it, cheers :)
C spanner size
Hey mate, thats a 25 mm c spanner
Cheers
Is it the same process with ktm bikes?
MESSIAH FOR HIMALAYAN OWNERS
Thanks mate, but you are being too kind :) I am just sharing little basic so that hopefully the bike and rider can keep enjoying this simple brilliant machine:)
really super helpful
Thanks mate, I wanted to cover as many basic points as possible, I thinks I still missed 1 or 2 but no less, thanks and glad you found this useful. Cheers :)
Hey buddy, really appreciate your channel, very very informative and to the point, I’ve found solutions to all my problems in your posted videos. I too am a Himalayan owner, I’ve been facing one major issue in my bike is the fuel economy issue, on highway I hardly achieve a 25km/l and city economy is just bizarre. What could be the possibile issues? I’ve tried nomatter what but never crossed a 25km average. Hoping for a response from your end. Thanks for these amazing videos btw :)
Hey mate, really glad you have found these vids useful :) and for fuel economy, city riding at paces about 70-80 can get us about 28-32 so 25 is slightly worrisome. I would start with changing to new air filter along with correct gapping of spark plug, if beyond spec, spark needs to be changed too, Bosch UR5CC is stock one. Also how many kms has the bike done, please do let me know, how the first 2 steps go. as it can be slightly long process as I cant ride the bike online and pin point the issue, but checking that clutch plates are in good health, idle setting, TPS setting and throttle body cleaning would be the following steps, cheers :)
@@leuheanrede Hey, the bike is ridden 16000 KMS i had a look at the filter, it seems pretty decent, just that the casing has some rust, so maybe due to water penetration, is it required to change the filter if it had gotten wet? Talking about The spark plug, i do not face any issues while ignition, the bike starts on my first attempt, but will still have a look. For the clutch plates also will have to have a look. Idle is at about 1.2k rpm as the manual suggests also. Thanks for the points will definitely look. What is the ideal fuel economy for a Himalayan, city and highway
Hey, If the basic checks are good, next thing will be checking for valve clearance, improper or out of spec can again lead to low fuel economy. And may I recommend changing the air filter, slight penetration is ok but if it was proper wet, the mesh would have thinned and hardened thus adversely affecting the airflow.
As for fuel economy, not sure what others are getting but it does depend on riding style and riding condition too. I have managed to squeeze out best of 32 to 34 kmpl on occasions when riding sedately and worst of 18 to 20 kmpl when going nuts :D cheer :)
Thank you so much btother...
good morning.
Very good morning to you too Sir :)
RE should have hired you before making the Himalayan 😂
Hahaha, that would have been the dream job :D
👍
Thank you sweet dear niece, glad you are enjoying them :D