2 things I would suggest: Tape the socket to the extension to ease removal after installing new plug, and use silicone dielectric grease inside the boots so the boot does not bond to the spark plug.
BILL Don't use the AMPMETER it only goes up to 20 amps your 12 volt alternator puts out more than 20 amps !!!! The ampmeter you have is for the 6 volt system with a generator. Just get a voltmeter for the tractor like BORIS has.
@@billstmaxx Keeping in mind the starter motor draws more than 20 amps . So consequently the gauge will be overdrawn on the negitive discharge side and burn out. When you fix the lights on the tractor the current draw will make the alternator produce higher amperage exceeding your 20 amp gauge.
None of the meters on Steiner tractor say it’s for 6 or 12 volt. Also none of their 12 volt conversion kits include a meter with it. We changed out jubilee to 12 volt and we didn’t change the meter.
The neg. - terminal DON'T go to ground on an ammeter gauge. It goes to the load . Just follow the old wire on the induction AM present gauge, as it should be OK.
Smashing job done bill :-D, well worth the special tool. If the fuel usage does not go down, blame the wife lol no no joking :-D, check the air sensor for muck. Having a nice day to work on the car is always good :-D
You can put tons of miles on yota engines Nissan to. These pitch cars after forty thousand just getting broke in. My mother’s Jeep almost two hundred thousand miles new cam shaft fine. Ram 1500 04 over two hundred thousand and climbing. Tune up here their plugs oil changes belt timex watch keeps on ticking. Have not touched the hemi she did need a new radiator hoses typical but dang for never needing much in as many miles. My dads 84 gmc over a million odometer went over 999999 kinds of mileage one rebuild he just didn’t like the addiction to the fuel pump.
I would clean the throttle body with the spray type of Seafoam...careful not to spray the MAF sensor, as well as change the PCV valve. With the condition of the engine air filter....may as well change the cabin air filter as well.
We are on stay at home orders here. Can go to work and for supplies. I had a 2005 Corolla. Had 102,000 miles when I hit a damn deer and totaled it. Was about to do plugs on it and clean the throttle plate. I suspect the later was the main issue with mine at idle and loss of MPG
I also left a comment about that so called mechanic that just drops the plugs into the holes just because he didn't have the right tools. Just terrible careless technique
No, don't put anything on the threads! Why are so many still doing this, its a damn myth, every spark plug manufacturer says to not use anything on the threads!
I've always put a little bit on plug threads and NEVER had issues. Even the Permatex silver stuff is rated to 1600F (870C). The threads in the head are never going to see temps anywhere close to that high. Just don't go overboard with the stuff. A tiny bit goes a long way. With longer service intervals for plugs these days it's just extra insurance to prevent seizure, especially in aluminum heads. Spark plug manufacturers saying not to use it has nothing to do with whether or not it works or is needed. It's purely a liability issue on their end.
So what? It still has nothing to do with why they say not to use it. As I said it's purely a liability issue for them (ie. they have no control over what people use and how they use it, so they simply state not to use it in order to cover their ass). Used correctly, anti-seize will cause zero issues and provide some added insurance during plug removal later on down the line. All it takes is one plug seizure and/or stripped out threads for someone to wish they'd have used a bit of anti-seize.
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
Hearing you make fun of every loud car/truck that goes by was the best part 🤣
2 things I would suggest: Tape the socket to the extension to ease removal after installing new plug, and use silicone dielectric grease inside the boots so the boot does not bond to the spark plug.
For a Canadian car that engine looks in good shape with the crap you guys go through in the winters LOL
They love the salt here. If this was 20 years ago that Toyota would have been a pile of rust lol
Clean the throttle body, that should fix that low idle when coming to a stop.
Actually the spark plug change we’ve noticed has solved that issue. This comment about a week after the video.
You left the screwdriver under the bonnet
I was gonna say
I did. Lol. Got it back.
BILL Don't use the AMPMETER it only goes up to 20 amps your 12 volt alternator puts out more than 20 amps !!!! The ampmeter you have is for the 6 volt system with a generator. Just get a voltmeter for the tractor like BORIS has.
Good thought there. But if your battery is good it shouldn’t be drawing very much.
@@billstmaxx Keeping in mind the starter motor draws more than 20 amps . So consequently the gauge will be overdrawn on the negitive discharge side and burn out. When you fix the lights on the tractor the current draw will make the alternator produce higher amperage exceeding your 20 amp gauge.
None of the meters on Steiner tractor say it’s for 6 or 12 volt. Also none of their 12 volt conversion kits include a meter with it. We changed out jubilee to 12 volt and we didn’t change the meter.
The neg. - terminal DON'T go to ground on an ammeter gauge. It goes to the load . Just follow the old wire on the induction AM present gauge, as it should be OK.
Bill when it is time can you do a video changing the oils on the tractors and do a video changing the Deere 2032r to mower mode
We have lots coming for those
Get on her bud! :)
If you still have hesitation try an injector cleaner or you got a hold of bad go go juice
Holy hell that huge gap , wow !
Great video Bill,stay safe and healthy
Did you notice better fuel mileage? I just changed mine after 150 000km. They still look okay. Have the same burn marks on the plugs.
Smashing job done bill :-D, well worth the special tool.
If the fuel usage does not go down, blame the wife lol no no joking :-D, check the air sensor for muck.
Having a nice day to work on the car is always good :-D
Nice video keep making them
You can put tons of miles on yota engines Nissan to. These pitch cars after forty thousand just getting broke in. My mother’s Jeep almost two hundred thousand miles new cam shaft fine. Ram 1500 04 over two hundred thousand and climbing. Tune up here their plugs oil changes belt timex watch keeps on ticking. Have not touched the hemi she did need a new radiator hoses typical but dang for never needing much in as many miles. My dads 84 gmc over a million odometer went over 999999 kinds of mileage one rebuild he just didn’t like the addiction to the fuel pump.
I would clean the throttle body with the spray type of Seafoam...careful not to spray the MAF sensor, as well as change the PCV valve. With the condition of the engine air filter....may as well change the cabin air filter as well.
Njk is better than denso?
We are on stay at home orders here. Can go to work and for supplies.
I had a 2005 Corolla. Had 102,000 miles when I hit a damn deer and totaled it. Was about to do plugs on it and clean the throttle plate. I suspect the later was the main issue with mine at idle and loss of MPG
We just went through the same thing on my granddaughter's Toyota.
The owners manual calls for a 14 mm spark plug socket
I also left a comment about that so called mechanic that just drops the plugs into the holes just because he didn't have the right tools. Just terrible careless technique
Lots of fake iridium plugs out there. Your new plugs look suspicious.
Plug gaps checked?
I had pre checked them all earlier
@@billstmaxx Nice!
Show me all the next one
U are very funny
(there 's a car holy cow is awesome can't wait l'm still ready for zombies it's gonna be awesome )
OMG Bill 🤣
Could have gotten another 80k out those old plugs
No, don't put anything on the threads! Why are so many still doing this, its a damn myth, every spark plug manufacturer says to not use anything on the threads!
I've always put a little bit on plug threads and NEVER had issues. Even the Permatex silver stuff is rated to 1600F (870C). The threads in the head are never going to see temps anywhere close to that high. Just don't go overboard with the stuff. A tiny bit goes a long way. With longer service intervals for plugs these days it's just extra insurance to prevent seizure, especially in aluminum heads. Spark plug manufacturers saying not to use it has nothing to do with whether or not it works or is needed. It's purely a liability issue on their end.
@@deathk26 No, they have done testing and found that it is just not needed, ,there is a coating that is baked on.
So what? It still has nothing to do with why they say not to use it. As I said it's purely a liability issue for them (ie. they have no control over what people use and how they use it, so they simply state not to use it in order to cover their ass). Used correctly, anti-seize will cause zero issues and provide some added insurance during plug removal later on down the line. All it takes is one plug seizure and/or stripped out threads for someone to wish they'd have used a bit of anti-seize.
@@deathk26 You like many others still don't get it, no wonder the myth continues.