Technically both, I keep old but if I feel it worn I often replace with new and give my bike project my old parts to use on bikes they service if they think worth keeping
I’m a fan of doing these things yourself and favoring parts that are serviceable. Shimano dealer manuals have all of the servicing details and are easy to find online, even going back several decades. It’s fun and satisfying to service these things yourself. These GCN videos, Park Tools videos and others, show you what you need to do. Every project gets easier as you learn, and it’s great not having to wait days or weeks for a bike shop to do something you can handle.
@@kokonanana1 At least they used to be 😅. Steel frames can be aligned (bent) back after mild crashes. Btw, one of the best bike repair youtube channels is RJ the bike guy. Top notch stuff. Cheers!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! The proper service will stretch the life of all your bicycle components immensely. This care is not rocket science. You don't need a PHD to maintain your bike. Many businesses, not just bicycle component companies, want you to buy new. That is why they build them the way they do. It makes your wallet thinner and theirs thicker. Maintain your bike with repair instead of replace so you can reduce your contribution to land fills. I have been a professional mechanic since 1976. A lot of the newer mechanics see replacement as the quick and easy service they call repair. I show pros and amateurs how service, repair and replace are dramatically different.
Most people don't have 10k to spend on a new bike. He is actually trying to help the industry.. Most people don't know how to build a bike so they will take it to a shop somewhere and pay them at least something. Semper Fi Merica
@@cwwcww7465 There is a difference between 'The Economics of War' and 'The War of Economics'. In 'The War of Economics', you can't appease Consumer and Industry together.
My bike is older than Alex so the components are serviceable in the extreme. I'm not getting younger or faster, so a modern bike is a complete turnoff considering just how many new tools I'd need to buy to maintain it at the same level. Threaded BB, rim brakes, mechanical derailleurs, external cables, downtube shifters... all easy to service and maintain. That said, I will still scan the auction sites for replacement parts like front derailleurs, levers, etc. because the supply of parts, particularly in NOS condition, is limited. I just dropped low triple digits for a replacement freewheel because finding them unworn with good cog differentials is becoming needle in a haystack level activity. At any rate, every new part upgraded-- even the power link connector in the new SRAM chain-- usually requires a companion Park tool.
I am agreed with you, I started riding during 90s and stop before millennium. And just back to cycling last year, to my surprise. everything became so expensive and need to be replaced whenever problems arise.
It's a real shame manufacturers don't sell rebuild kits for disc brake calipers. Some models are quite prone to piston seal leaks (Shimano BR-RS785), and sometimes you accidentally crack a piston. If you could get the right square seal and replacement pistons, a perfectly-good caliper could be saved
Hope does this, you can buy everything you need including tools to fix a caliper. Shimano, Sram, TRP and Magura all won't sell you parts to fix or have even the option of factory rebuild, they will just sell you a new caliper
Pedals and derailleur springs are perfect applications for a water displacing lubricant like WD40. Chris Horner gave this tip which I've incorporated into my maintenance routine.
Haven't had any problems with wheel hub bearings on my bikes for years, the modern greases and lubricants seem to be very good. The wheel rims generally wear out before the bearings do.
Recently revived a dead shifter for a neighbour, a previous helpful person had lubricated with some very sticky oil. Shifters only need a very light oil!
A quick squirt of silicon spray will usually free up sticky shifters. I'd be wary of soaking them in degreaser/isopropyl etc, you could end up with a gritty feel you can't get rid of.
Remove your pedals from the bike and service those threads occasionally. I had my pedal come apart on the way to work one day; got it to the shop riding on the spindle, they couldn't take it off to put new pedals in. I ended up leaving with new crankset, BB (they couldn't get the preload right and I had worn some grooves in it), and pedals all because it was seized. Way more time and money than I wanted to spend.
Depending on the materials of the components and the conditions under which the bike is ridden and stored, it may be best to use mounting paste/anti-seize compound on such threads (pedal, BB spindle, BB shell).
Great video on bike maintenance. I think you it would have been better if you used an older bike that had worn components as your demonstrator vs. a modern bike with electronic shifting and disc brakes.
I wouldn't just drown the shifters in degreaser or other cleaning product, but try to take them apart and clean the insides with coton swabs or whatever needed for precision cleaning. And I would apply any lubricant to the actual pivot points there too. That being said, I had my prvious bike about 9 years and previous owner had it about a year (combined we put about 45000 km on it) and it had some cheapish Shimano shifters. A few times I cleaned them when I suspected tha the sluggish shfting was caused by them. It never was. It was always the cables. The aluminium frame failed before the shifters. (The frame actually snapped in half, but it lasted pretty good considering I also ride in the winter here in Finland.) On to the cables. After a few attempts at lubricating the housings I found out they work best if you dont really use any lubricants in there. Most modern cable housings have a some sort of self lubricating or otherwise slippery plastic layer in them. Any added lubricant just collects dust and forms some sort of gunk in there that makes shifting sluggish and brakes stick. With no lubricant it takes much longer before I have to do anything to them and I have never had any problems with the cables rusting. One more thing. Cheaper shomano free hub bodies are not serviceable according to the manufacturer. There are videos about how to make a tool to open them. Once you have the tool, they are actually pretty easy to service. Only other things needed are grease and about 50 pieces of 1/8" bearing balls... and maybe a small screwdriver or some sort of pick to take off some round springs. The first one I serviced has now been in use for a few winters and I think it actually feels better than the newer one I have on my summer wheels. Only when turning it by hand wihtout the cassette though. When riding I can't feel any difference. Before maintenance it was sticking and did not engage every time.
Unless the cups and cones are hardened, it's not a good idea to run ceramic balls in those hubs. Wear will actually be accelerated as ceramic is harder than steel.
@@sbccbc7471 The original Ultegra wheels didn't have them. However, thry were upgraded because of widespread adoption of ceramic balls. Also, Shimano warned about overtightening the cones as the could and sometimes deformed the hollow axles.
Seeing how my newest bike is 25years old I repair and rebuild everything I would like to pick up a newer bike, but then I will loose compatibility with my large parts collection. eBay has become the source for replacement parts. Just don't expect them to be as good as they are described. Speaking of which I need to get to work and two bikes that are in parts right now.
Nice presentation Alex but you had me do a double take on the ease of throwing worn unserviceable parts into the "bin." Metal is infinitely recyclable and expensive and should be kept out of 'landfills.' Some plastics are also recyclable. We should always look into recycling before throwing things away. As consumers, we should as much as possible, put our money toward dealers and manufacturers who make serviceable, recyclable products.
Bit about wheels with cartridge bearings wasn't clear. You can just replace the bearings with new cartridge bearings. Pretty easy to do and a better idea than trying to lever open the bearing cartridge.
@@zedddddful Exactly. All hyperglide. Sunrace also makes compatible cassettes and with different gear combinations, and so does Miche (italian manufacturer for some Campagnolo components).
I use a couple of 9 speed setups. Spares are cheap and relatively common to get. These are just not Aluminium or Titanium cassettes and derailleurs with carbon fiber parts
I have a Ultegra 8070 Di2 shifter with worn pistons/seals. Apparently Shimano don't replace these so I'll have to replace the shifter. If anyone knows of a way to repair this let me know!
I did the service for the C50 Wheels and it turned out horribly. There is friction now in the free hub and It cannot free wheel without loosening the cones excessively. Local bike shop is having trouble as well with it.
@@sbccbc7471 Nothing visibly wrong with the cups and cones. Bearings all look fine. Local bike shop cant figure it out and is contacting Shimano. I regret doing this 1 year service for these wheels.
So I just got into cyclling and I just noticed that the bike I have (Rockrider ST 100 from decathlon) is not enough for my needs, which is to commute to a 26km daily ride, because of that I´ve decided to get a better bike and Im not sure what to go for, at the moment Im thinking about these 2 options: Road Bike: Van Ryzel EDR AF ULTEGRA (from Decathlon) Or Trekking Ebike: RIVERSIDE 500 E (also from Decatlhon) Since I never owned or drove neither a Road Bike or an E-bike Im not sure what to pick, can anyone help me out?
This is a BIG question! We think you need to ask yourself what sort of riding will you be doing. If you are looking to push the miles, fitness and make cycling a hobby, the road bike will be a great option. If you want a bike for everyday use and you are looking to build cycling into your everyday life, the Ebike might be for you 🙌
You'd be surprised what some people with more money than sense throw away! My LBS is full of like-new tires customers discard when changing... other things I've seen people throw away include wheels that only needed a simple hub service and an entire mtb groupset 😑
Yes, the most common of which is inner tubes. One puncture and they want a new one, either that or they had no clue inner tubes can be patched, but not all shops have inner tube patches in their workshops.
@@adamweb I've seen people recommend changing the cassette every time they change the chain or every 3 chains. I changed chain wheels and cassette after about 23,000 miles. Chainwheels are worn out but the cassette could go on a bit longer.
long story short ,, old bike 20-40 year old , with bit of greece and oil will work for one other 20 years , new bike build in the last 10 years , just thow it away after 5 years , or one year if you are racing , if is aluminun you can recile it if carbon will end up in land field like all the plastic
And please don't throw most of these parts into the bin. Pop them in the recycling. Most of these are mainly metalic so can easily be recycled, but not if they go to landfill.
Would it have been too hard to find a bike with a spec that is representative of what the masses use? The bike you are using has shockingly bad tyre clearance.
Considering the Triggers broom of mismatchy Ultegra/105/Roval/Crank Bros/Ztto that my Canyon is, this is good stuff. Still sub 8kg for an alloy frame, i dont care.
I hate this thing of throwing things away because they are not serviceable not only bikes but things in general. Cell phones, once battery dies it is useless, smart watches pretty much any electronic stuff is disposable and newer generations are happy with that even though they claim to be "greener". Next big disposable thing are electric cars when a battery would be more expensive than the car's residual value. No one seems to care to try to stop this nonsense.
“DISCLAIMER!!! If you’re doing al of the above the first few (idk.10x) times, be prepared that you’ll damage some stuff, that can cost you from a 100£ to a new frame/bike.” Would be nice to hear it from time to time in your videos!!! Best regards, all pro mechanics that have to fix this sh*t (1h work&angry customer-when billed, instead of 10min easy fix)
I'm not a pro mechanic however I do my maintenance myself and did custom builds too but I never damaged a frame at maintenance. The only frame which was damaged was the one of my commuter where I replaced the bottom bracket after 3 years and because the factory where the bike was built had the glorious idea to mount it without any grease it was seized and took some of the bb thread with it (there's still enough to hold it however). With the BB I mounted I never had such problems since I lubricate the thread
@@simonm1447 I had a similar experience with a grease-free threaded BB on my commuter/gracel bike. After 12K km I decided to replace it and found I couldn't move one side. Neither side was lubricated. Fortunately, By applying WD-40 a few times and buying a full ring- type BB wrench I got it off without damaging the thread. The full ring wrench made all the difference. As you say, thread now well lubed.
When stuff wears out, it’s upgrade time. Stop being skinflints and have some pride in your bikes 🥱… These are all good tips, but servicing stuff doesn’t work if a bike has been neglected for 2/3 years…rust/corrosion/breakages cannot be resolved with fettling.
Do you always service your old parts or just buy new? ⚙
Technically both, I keep old but if I feel it worn I often replace with new and give my bike project my old parts to use on bikes they service if they think worth keeping
I try to service and repair, but currently frustrated by Shimano hydraulic shifters and calipers not repairable because of the lack of spares.
some are service parts some will be replaced when needed
Service whenever possible. Replace only when worn out or damaged.
Never had a part replaced that hadn't died a gruesome death xD
I’m a fan of doing these things yourself and favoring parts that are serviceable. Shimano dealer manuals have all of the servicing details and are easy to find online, even going back several decades. It’s fun and satisfying to service these things yourself. These GCN videos, Park Tools videos and others, show you what you need to do. Every project gets easier as you learn, and it’s great not having to wait days or weeks for a bike shop to do something you can handle.
Bicycles are relatively simple machines!
@@kokonanana1 At least they used to be 😅. Steel frames can be aligned (bent) back after mild crashes. Btw, one of the best bike repair youtube channels is RJ the bike guy. Top notch stuff. Cheers!
@@KarlosEPM A few years back, I needed to bend a steel frame to fit a wider hub and found a selection of great RJ the Bike Guy videos
The simplest is swiping your card and tossing the bike at the mechanic. No grease on your fingers needed and the bike just fixes itself.
As a professional bike mechanic for over 15 years, I love this video! Fix it, don’t replace unless absolutely necessary!
even better... service it, maintain it and rarely need to fix anything or replace.
Yes yes yes! Fixing bikes is so important 🙌 The less waste the better!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! The proper service will stretch the life of all your bicycle components immensely. This care is not rocket science. You don't need a PHD to maintain your bike. Many businesses, not just bicycle component companies, want you to buy new. That is why they build them the way they do. It makes your wallet thinner and theirs thicker. Maintain your bike with repair instead of replace so you can reduce your contribution to land fills. I have been a professional mechanic since 1976. A lot of the newer mechanics see replacement as the quick and easy service they call repair. I show pros and amateurs how service, repair and replace are dramatically different.
Good video. Definitely need more emphasis on servicing rather than replacing. Really rewarding to know how to maintain your own bike.
Alex encouraging riders to save their old bikes and NOT buy new? Alex is about to be fired! We wheel miss you!
Most people don't have 10k to spend on a new bike.
He is actually trying to help the industry..
Most people don't know how to build a bike so they will take it to a shop somewhere and pay them at least something.
Semper Fi Merica
@@cwwcww7465 There is a difference between 'The Economics of War' and 'The War of Economics'. In 'The War of Economics', you can't appease Consumer and Industry together.
My bike is older than Alex so the components are serviceable in the extreme. I'm not getting younger or faster, so a modern bike is a complete turnoff considering just how many new tools I'd need to buy to maintain it at the same level. Threaded BB, rim brakes, mechanical derailleurs, external cables, downtube shifters... all easy to service and maintain. That said, I will still scan the auction sites for replacement parts like front derailleurs, levers, etc. because the supply of parts, particularly in NOS condition, is limited. I just dropped low triple digits for a replacement freewheel because finding them unworn with good cog differentials is becoming needle in a haystack level activity. At any rate, every new part upgraded-- even the power link connector in the new SRAM chain-- usually requires a companion Park tool.
I am agreed with you, I started riding during 90s and stop before millennium. And just back to cycling last year, to my surprise. everything became so expensive and need to be replaced whenever problems arise.
It's a real shame manufacturers don't sell rebuild kits for disc brake calipers. Some models are quite prone to piston seal leaks (Shimano BR-RS785), and sometimes you accidentally crack a piston. If you could get the right square seal and replacement pistons, a perfectly-good caliper could be saved
Hope does this, you can buy everything you need including tools to fix a caliper. Shimano, Sram, TRP and Magura all won't sell you parts to fix or have even the option of factory rebuild, they will just sell you a new caliper
SRAM has kits to replace pistons and all the seals
Pedals and derailleur springs are perfect applications for a water displacing lubricant like WD40. Chris Horner gave this tip which I've incorporated into my maintenance routine.
I remember that my Campag idler wheels on the rear mech had cup and cone serviceable bearings with separate balls.
Haven't had any problems with wheel hub bearings on my bikes for years, the modern greases and lubricants seem to be very good. The wheel rims generally wear out before the bearings do.
Full-contact seals allow bearings to last longer, at the expense of bearing friction.
Yeah, 6 months for a wheel bearing change sounded mad to me
Recently revived a dead shifter for a neighbour, a previous helpful person had lubricated with some very sticky oil. Shifters only need a very light oil!
Alex, i Love that Casio watch!
4:57 when the ring tapped the paint job 😢
I mean SPD-SL pedals are serviceable just saying.
A quick squirt of silicon spray will usually free up sticky shifters. I'd be wary of soaking them in degreaser/isopropyl etc, you could end up with a gritty feel you can't get rid of.
Remove your pedals from the bike and service those threads occasionally. I had my pedal come apart on the way to work one day; got it to the shop riding on the spindle, they couldn't take it off to put new pedals in.
I ended up leaving with new crankset, BB (they couldn't get the preload right and I had worn some grooves in it), and pedals all because it was seized. Way more time and money than I wanted to spend.
Depending on the materials of the components and the conditions under which the bike is ridden and stored, it may be best to use mounting paste/anti-seize compound on such threads (pedal, BB spindle, BB shell).
@@KarlosEPM I'd say using anti-seize is standard practice. Nobody installs pedals dry, except wrench monkeys.
Most of the stuff I personally ride is SRAM. And I Service almost everything, and have taken apart almost everything.
Great video on bike maintenance. I think you it would have been better if you used an older bike that had worn components as your demonstrator vs. a modern bike with electronic shifting and disc brakes.
Also Alex,
Can the channel give an opinion on the quality of a CAAD 10 Cannondale?
Thinking of building another bike for the Virginia mountains.
Thank you 🫂
I wouldn't just drown the shifters in degreaser or other cleaning product, but try to take them apart and clean the insides with coton swabs or whatever needed for precision cleaning. And I would apply any lubricant to the actual pivot points there too. That being said, I had my prvious bike about 9 years and previous owner had it about a year (combined we put about 45000 km on it) and it had some cheapish Shimano shifters. A few times I cleaned them when I suspected tha the sluggish shfting was caused by them. It never was. It was always the cables. The aluminium frame failed before the shifters. (The frame actually snapped in half, but it lasted pretty good considering I also ride in the winter here in Finland.)
On to the cables. After a few attempts at lubricating the housings I found out they work best if you dont really use any lubricants in there. Most modern cable housings have a some sort of self lubricating or otherwise slippery plastic layer in them. Any added lubricant just collects dust and forms some sort of gunk in there that makes shifting sluggish and brakes stick. With no lubricant it takes much longer before I have to do anything to them and I have never had any problems with the cables rusting.
One more thing. Cheaper shomano free hub bodies are not serviceable according to the manufacturer. There are videos about how to make a tool to open them. Once you have the tool, they are actually pretty easy to service. Only other things needed are grease and about 50 pieces of 1/8" bearing balls... and maybe a small screwdriver or some sort of pick to take off some round springs. The first one I serviced has now been in use for a few winters and I think it actually feels better than the newer one I have on my summer wheels. Only when turning it by hand wihtout the cassette though. When riding I can't feel any difference. Before maintenance it was sticking and did not engage every time.
I had Shimano Ultegra wheels. Ended up replacing the cones and bearings. You can replace the bearings with ceramic, and they will last longer.
Unless the cups and cones are hardened, it's not a good idea to run ceramic balls in those hubs. Wear will actually be accelerated as ceramic is harder than steel.
@@sbccbc7471 The original Ultegra wheels didn't have them. However, thry were upgraded because of widespread adoption of ceramic balls. Also, Shimano warned about overtightening the cones as the could and sometimes deformed the hollow axles.
In the old days I'd use waterproof grease just to save maintenance. The bearings probably weren't efficient, but they weren't sealed either.
Seeing how my newest bike is 25years old I repair and rebuild everything
I would like to pick up a newer bike, but then I will loose compatibility with my large parts collection.
eBay has become the source for replacement parts.
Just don't expect them to be as good as they are described.
Speaking of which I need to get to work and two bikes that are in parts right now.
Nice presentation Alex but you had me do a double take on the ease of throwing worn unserviceable parts into the "bin." Metal is infinitely recyclable and expensive and should be kept out of 'landfills.' Some plastics are also recyclable. We should always look into recycling before throwing things away. As consumers, we should as much as possible, put our money toward dealers and manufacturers who make serviceable, recyclable products.
Bit about wheels with cartridge bearings wasn't clear. You can just replace the bearings with new cartridge bearings. Pretty easy to do and a better idea than trying to lever open the bearing cartridge.
It only needs replacing if the races have gone rough.
Try finding replacements for 9 and 10 Speed equipment.
It's not hard. But you'll have accept the fact that you'll be buying "lower tier" from any brand. Heavier but durable (as well as cheaper).
Not so, Dura Ace can be very cheap, indeed cheaper than Ultegra sometimes
Sora and tiagra are all over the place it's as good as the old high end stuff just a bit heavier.
@@zedddddful Exactly. All hyperglide. Sunrace also makes compatible cassettes and with different gear combinations, and so does Miche (italian manufacturer for some Campagnolo components).
I use a couple of 9 speed setups. Spares are cheap and relatively common to get. These are just not Aluminium or Titanium cassettes and derailleurs with carbon fiber parts
I have a Ultegra 8070 Di2 shifter with worn pistons/seals. Apparently Shimano don't replace these so I'll have to replace the shifter. If anyone knows of a way to repair this let me know!
Great video 👌🏻
Fix it, if at all possible. If you don't know how, YT, Park Tools, etc will help. Also, ask ChatGPT how to do it.
Outstanding 🥰😇
Shimano needs to start having brake pistons and seals available, a leaky seal or stuck piston and you have to toss the entire caliper.
Is that the canondale system 6? Looking good even today. Everyone is copying this bike
I did the service for the C50 Wheels and it turned out horribly. There is friction now in the free hub and It cannot free wheel without loosening the cones excessively. Local bike shop is having trouble as well with it.
Are your cups and cones pitted? How are the ball bearings?
@@sbccbc7471 Nothing visibly wrong with the cups and cones. Bearings all look fine. Local bike shop cant figure it out and is contacting Shimano. I regret doing this 1 year service for these wheels.
how can you tell if your cassette or chain rings need to be replaced?
Some of us ride bikes with an IGH; low maintenance and dead reliable, pretty much just add lube.
Im about to add 105di to my $200 entry level bike
The Scrub a Dub Dub, never gets old 😂
Doesn’t Alex have a lovely garden?
So I just got into cyclling and I just noticed that the bike I have (Rockrider ST 100 from decathlon) is not enough for my needs, which is to commute to a 26km daily ride, because of that I´ve decided to get a better bike and Im not sure what to go for, at the moment Im thinking about these 2 options:
Road Bike:
Van Ryzel EDR AF ULTEGRA (from Decathlon)
Or
Trekking Ebike:
RIVERSIDE 500 E (also from Decatlhon)
Since I never owned or drove neither a Road Bike or an E-bike Im not sure what to pick, can anyone help me out?
This is a BIG question! We think you need to ask yourself what sort of riding will you be doing. If you are looking to push the miles, fitness and make cycling a hobby, the road bike will be a great option. If you want a bike for everyday use and you are looking to build cycling into your everyday life, the Ebike might be for you 🙌
@@gcntech Thanks for the reply! It helped!
Are you implying that some people really toss parts to the bin instead of servicing them?
You'd be surprised what some people with more money than sense throw away! My LBS is full of like-new tires customers discard when changing... other things I've seen people throw away include wheels that only needed a simple hub service and an entire mtb groupset 😑
@@adamweb I get crazy bargains on race bikes whose shifters are stuck due to dry grease. It's mind blowing.
And quite a few upgrade group sets when they prob don’t need to
Yes, the most common of which is inner tubes. One puncture and they want a new one, either that or they had no clue inner tubes can be patched, but not all shops have inner tube patches in their workshops.
@@adamweb I've seen people recommend changing the cassette every time they change the chain or every 3 chains. I changed chain wheels and cassette after about 23,000 miles. Chainwheels are worn out but the cassette could go on a bit longer.
long story short ,, old bike 20-40 year old , with bit of greece and oil will work for one other 20 years , new bike build in the last 10 years , just thow it away after 5 years , or one year if you are racing , if is aluminun you can recile it if carbon will end up in land field like all the plastic
My bike is commonly referred to as triggers bike
Isn't it true that, generaly speaking, greases should not be mixed? Why do they say this, I mean what are the risks?
It's a good idea not to, you could change the properties of both grease types.
@@sbccbc7471 This would have been good to mention when Alex discussed the freehub.
And please don't throw most of these parts into the bin. Pop them in the recycling. Most of these are mainly metalic so can easily be recycled, but not if they go to landfill.
you have not mention headset at all
BSA threaded BB vs BB90😅
My current press fit BB has done 25,000 miles and counting. The previous managed 16,000.
What bike is that in the video?
Instructions unclear. Ended by buying a new bike somehow.
Don't lubricate shifting cables!
Fixing stuff yourself > paying someone else to do it and potentially messing it up (shops)
👍
Would it have been too hard to find a bike with a spec that is representative of what the masses use? The bike you are using has shockingly bad tyre clearance.
Considering the Triggers broom of mismatchy Ultegra/105/Roval/Crank Bros/Ztto that my Canyon is, this is good stuff. Still sub 8kg for an alloy frame, i dont care.
I hate this thing of throwing things away because they are not serviceable not only bikes but things in general. Cell phones, once battery dies it is useless, smart watches pretty much any electronic stuff is disposable and newer generations are happy with that even though they claim to be "greener". Next big disposable thing are electric cars when a battery would be more expensive than the car's residual value. No one seems to care to try to stop this nonsense.
Scrubba dub dub😂
7:10 just google user manuals 😂
Not everybody knows how to do that properly unfortunately. I've been accessing Shimano technical documents long before I worked in a bike shop.
But replacing is the best excuse to upgrade.
That being said I service all my parts that I can service.
👍👍🚴
1st
“DISCLAIMER!!! If you’re doing al of the above the first few (idk.10x) times, be prepared that you’ll damage some stuff, that can cost you from a 100£ to a new frame/bike.”
Would be nice to hear it from time to time in your videos!!!
Best regards, all pro mechanics that have to fix this sh*t (1h work&angry customer-when billed, instead of 10min easy fix)
Haha - important point here GCN
I'm not a pro mechanic however I do my maintenance myself and did custom builds too but I never damaged a frame at maintenance.
The only frame which was damaged was the one of my commuter where I replaced the bottom bracket after 3 years and because the factory where the bike was built had the glorious idea to mount it without any grease it was seized and took some of the bb thread with it (there's still enough to hold it however). With the BB I mounted I never had such problems since I lubricate the thread
@@simonm1447 I had a similar experience with a grease-free threaded BB on my commuter/gracel bike. After 12K km I decided to replace it and found I couldn't move one side. Neither side was lubricated. Fortunately, By applying WD-40 a few times and buying a full ring- type BB wrench I got it off without damaging the thread. The full ring wrench made all the difference. As you say, thread now well lubed.
aging like wine? more like aging like milk ;)
When stuff wears out, it’s upgrade time.
Stop being skinflints and have some pride in your bikes 🥱…
These are all good tips, but servicing stuff doesn’t work if a bike has been neglected for 2/3 years…rust/corrosion/breakages cannot be resolved with fettling.