so your check engine light is on and the code is for EGR or Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve... sit back and ill explain where it goes and how to check it without computers?
You Just tought me that I can keep it plugged in while unbolted to see if it opens and closes, thank you fr that. Otherwise I would have never knew if that would be okay
! am an ASE Master Tech and I own a '95 1/2 Jimmy. There is a scanner that will pull codes for this vehicle and it works with the "Torque" app and bluetooth. It will not do "Mode 6." These EGR valves can stick open because of carbon and the fix is an EGR gasket with a screen built in to it. There is not a separate system that measures EGR flow. So, if you get a P0401 99% of the time it is a bad valve. Thanks!
wtf did you just say dude ? so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
It's not recommended to blow compressed air through the egr valve, if doing so may result in chunks of carbon to be logged down in the intake ports or into the combustion chambers and can result in internal damage such as valve seat damage cylinder wall gauging which results in loss of compression and oil burning and rough idle and defiantly poor gas milage! the only way to clean the port is a small cleaning brush and vacuum cleaner and carb spray.
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
I am getting the same code but my truck wont start... ran fine last night. fixed it today and it was a ground wire in the trailer hitch. the ground was broken and it was causing the truck to not start at all.
Wish us he would of actually shown us the removal of all the crap in the way of getting the egr valve out and maybe even the tools required. Not a single video on youtube doing it to this motor inside a suv/truck chassis
You only need a basic socket set. You can't have someone hold your hand for every little thing. If you can't figure out how to take two bolts out then maybe working on your car isn't for you.
Use paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes will flash from engine light.
Diagnose it don't do what he says like just replacing random chit that you don't know is broke it's more common that spider injector's act up on vortec engine's.
I have 1997 s10 2.2. It has this same egr valve as this video. I did the test, it wasnt working, bought a new one....still not working, the new one is also not opening and closing. What is the next step to try to fix my truck? And how? Thanks for any help
can these parts be cleaned n how... I'm getting the egr code but my car is not running ruff n is idling normal.. n drives smoothly on a 2000 GM Yukon Denali
I had a p1406 at first, then I bought a new one EGR valve, then installed, then it showed the p0401 like it's not enough, then I bought another for 60 bux previous was 35, and it still not working good. P1406 came back and now I have p0140 there:( 3 freaking codes now
My smog system has been removed everything blocked off and I am getting egr codes and truck stumbles and hesitates around 1900 rpms to 2500 rpms when above 55
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor same here with my truck
I have a 2000 blazer and when I try to start it, it acts like its really trying to start, but it won't turn over. A guy used his code reader and told me he thought it could be my EGR valve. Is that a common problem?
We don't even know if he fixed it he probably had to replace spider injection on that vortec and paid for a EGR that could easily be cleaned and checked for function.
Ya unmetered air enters and the fuel system tries to compensate - I scribed the egr on a piece of aluminum 30 thou thick, and cut out the shape and bolted the aluminum in it’s place then you can run it and watch the pintle
Had a 94 Sonoma 4'3...bought new taken care of...biggest piece of shit ever. Constant egr problems after 30k miles...not to mention...fuel pump,,,the injection system...altenator.AC.front end.power windows,,mirrions,,wipers...everything you could think of broke on that hunk of junk.Swore me off GM forever.
Mike Brewer got a 2000 jimmy 4.3. You aint lyin. Bought it cause it was sitting in a field with 95k on it. Some dumbass kid slaughtered the 4l60e in it (i have no idea how). It sat for 4 months before I bought it. I have replaced fuel pump, filter, spider, fpr, maf, egr, pcv, vacuum lines, and lucifers left testicle. Runs great now, but f%@$ this thing.
Forgot the control arms and 2 computers...1st under warranty 2nd one cost me $1000 bucks.It was a beautiful truck too....an SLE with the very rare purple paint.Finally got rid of that monstrosity after the 5th EGR valve. and the dreaded code 32.. Only the 94-96 HO 4'3's had that particular part. Left me on the side of the road many times.One time had a new one put I at the dealer and didn't even make it home..I will say the engine.trans and cooling system were fantastic....no troubles there..but I went back to a new Nissan truck..and I still have it 15 years later. Only been stranded twice with a dead battery and once a 1ten year old radiator hose broke.. I will probably die before this truck.
Mike Brewer yeah. It is hangin in there at the moment. I have done a 350 swap on two s10s. I am almost tempted to fix the next problem with a good ol "bye bye 4.3" action. I just dont know if I am prepared for the mpg loss lol. Arkansas doesnt have inspections so you can do it right
Eli..I might add the replacement Egr's were the "improved" ones with the screen to prevent them from clogging up....but the screens burned up in no time
Mike Brewer if the computers werent so damn touchy, could have bypassed the egr all together. But noooooo. Gm wants every chinese ass part to work in harmony
Every damn time! I had to clean the screen on mine every six months for a couple years. Now the light still comes on now matter what. I replaced the EGR valve on a wing and a prayer, but that didn't work either. So now I just live with it. Runs the same as ever.
Cuz I did the same and that mf just would not and could not leave me the hell alone, I like the 4.3 but that shit was pissing me off lol ditched the 4.3 and went with the 5.7 and best choice I’ve ever made lol this one had way more mileage than my old 4.3 and yet the old egr on this one doesn’t care at all 😂 one thing is certain tho the 5.7 hella quicker and snappier, with a bit more torque, slapped some 295’s cooper cobras in the back and slotted rotors in the front 😎 shit sails, I love this piece of shit, but now I wanna go ls to see what the fuss is about and or 454 but they expensive
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor fuck it someone call me if you know, 2564583744 4.3 engine by the way
It's not recommended to blow compressed air through the egr valve, if doing so may result in chunks of carbon to be logged down in the intake ports or into the combustion chambers and can result in internal damage such as valve seat damage cylinder wall gauging which results in loss of compression and oil burning and rough idle and defiantly poor gas milage! the only way to clean the port is a small cleaning brush and vacuum cleaner and carb spray.
Most of the carbon lodges in the top of the tubes on the v8 LS engines. The proper way to do clean that out on the v8 LS engine is to take it to someone that can heat the bolts in the bottom of the V8 engines that have that tube. In this case this is a 4.3L and removing and cleaning the intake makes a huge diff once the new valve is in it. U won't be throwing carbon down an already partially blocked intake by trying to a half assed clean job. The 4.3L intake porting for the EGR can at times cake up severely and in almost every 4.3L I have ever worked on if the valve is caked up and the port at the top of the intake is also caked up inside the intake. THEN it needs to come off>>> (THE REASONS YOU SEE FOLKS REPLACING NEW EGR VALVES). When only the top of the intake port is clear the valve itself is new. It will only functions for few 1000 miles and ya got the problem right back plus you start burning valves up. The people with the 4.8L on up are lucky GM got wise to their mistakes on mounting the EGR on the intake it self so when they went to the HEMI clone motors known as the LS engine they also designed that beautiful plastic wonder called the Vortek intake that works like a gem. The LS motor tube assembly for a new QUALITY part is about 80 bucks you can even buy a cheap EGR for about 40 bucks on EBAY. As stated take it to someone that can get those little bolts in the bottom of the tube out without stripping em and having to remove the exhaust manifold. A blocked EGR can effect compression and not just a running engine but a static compression test can show lower than normal cylinder pressures. Had it happen here. Nearly told a customer his 4.3 engine was shot only 100 pounds a cylinder. Once the manifold was cleaned out and new EGR was in place the engine compression jumped up to 135lbs a cylinder. Not impressive by any means but for a 4.3 4.8 and the 5.3 motor about 140lbs is a normal used engine. Anything above 160 is a phenomenon okay. I have seen 190K 5.3L with 170lbs & 160 a cylinder. The 4.8 with a clean EGR will check out at about 140 to 160 a cyl. Never ever just replace 4.3L intake mounted EGR valve and spray it with air & carb cleaner. THE PROPER PROCEDURE IS TO REMOVE THE INTAKE AND TAKE IT TO A SHOP THAT HAS A DIP TANK. Any machine shop will have your intake for 3 to 6 days. I let em sit in the acid for 3 days myself. Anything less ya still have gum and gunk inside the intake. Then I run my brushes thru em. That also makes the remaining shit fly out onto me all over the work bench and at times out the other side of the intake port holes. Never just slap a new EGR on a 4.3L intake and do a half assed clean out job. A new valve will start making the engine run lean and start frying valves and tops of pistons. A 4.3L intake is not easy easy to remove but easy enough that you can git it done. Remember to mark your distributor on the 4.3L with a distributor. I hope I helped here and nobody bites my head off. Replacing the valve and half assed cleaning is only prolonging a total engine failure or engine burn up.
Thank you! We're coming up on the 10 year anniversary of this video and it's still helping people. How awesome!
You Just tought me that I can keep it plugged in while unbolted to see if it opens and closes, thank you fr that. Otherwise I would have never knew if that would be okay
Great video! Short, easy, simple way to test an electronic egr valve.
GREAT! My NOX emissions are too high so this is an easy way to see if my EGR is bad before I spend $60 for a replacement. THX!
! am an ASE Master Tech and I own a '95 1/2 Jimmy. There is a scanner that will pull codes for this vehicle and it works with the "Torque" app and bluetooth. It will not do "Mode 6." These EGR valves can stick open because of carbon and the fix is an EGR gasket with a screen built in to it. There is not a separate system that measures EGR flow. So, if you get a P0401 99% of the time it is a bad valve. Thanks!
wtf did you just say dude ? so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
I have a 95 1/2 Blazer, which fortunately has OBDII. Got the P0401 "EGR flow insufficient" code going right now, so looks like a new valve for me.
The screen in mine burned out in no time...fix my ass
someone is going to have to do a video where they clip together all of your expressions on the intros. haha. good vid!
It's not recommended to blow compressed air through the egr valve, if doing so may result in chunks of carbon to be logged down in the intake ports or into the combustion chambers and can result in internal damage such as valve seat damage cylinder wall gauging which results in loss of compression and oil burning and rough idle and defiantly poor gas milage! the only way to clean the port is a small cleaning brush and vacuum cleaner and carb spray.
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
How do you know if the signal is toast? What voltage should it be?
I am getting the same code but my truck wont start... ran fine last night.
fixed it today and it was a ground wire in the trailer hitch. the ground was broken and it was causing the truck to not start at all.
Wish us he would of actually shown us the removal of all the crap in the way of getting the egr valve out and maybe even the tools required. Not a single video on youtube doing it to this motor inside a suv/truck chassis
It has two bolts on it, all you do is unscrew them and then unplug it.
You only need a basic socket set. You can't have someone hold your hand for every little thing. If you can't figure out how to take two bolts out then maybe working on your car isn't for you.
man its two bolts.... doesnt sound like you should even be messing with it
2 10 mm bolts on the front of the engine at eye level, easy peasy
Use paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes will flash from engine light.
Bad egrs wont always trigger a fault
My point was that its ez to run codes because he acts like its not
Diagnose it don't do what he says like just replacing random chit that you don't know is broke it's more common that spider injector's act up on vortec engine's.
I have 1997 s10 2.2. It has this same egr valve as this video. I did the test, it wasnt working, bought a new one....still not working, the new one is also not opening and closing. What is the next step to try to fix my truck? And how? Thanks for any help
GOOD VID✔
The best thing to do is a mercruiser intake swap on the 4.3L. Delete that POS spider injector once and for all.
can these parts be cleaned n how... I'm getting the egr code but my car is not running ruff n is idling normal.. n drives smoothly on a 2000 GM Yukon Denali
Bought a new one and still the same code, how do you know if your signal is toast.
I had a p1406 at first, then I bought a new one EGR valve, then installed, then it showed the p0401 like it's not enough, then I bought another for 60 bux previous was 35, and it still not working good. P1406 came back and now I have p0140 there:( 3 freaking codes now
My smog system has been removed everything blocked off and I am getting egr codes and truck stumbles and hesitates around 1900 rpms to 2500 rpms when above 55
I have changed the entire ignition system and the only codes are for the smog and egr. Any thoughts?? It is a 1997 Yukon 4wd 5.7
Sounds like a clogged catilatic converter
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
same here with my truck
You gotta have it programmed out
The problem with this video is the fact that it does not show exactly what the EGR valve looks like.
I have a 2000 blazer and when I try to start it, it acts like its really trying to start, but it won't turn over. A guy used his code reader and told me he thought it could be my EGR valve. Is that a common problem?
distributor cap mostly
okeye1388... was it the egr
okeye1388 distributor cap is bad
its the fuel pump. these vehicles blazer/jimmy must have a full 55psi to start
Thanks
We don't even know if he fixed it he probably had to replace spider injection on that vortec and paid for a EGR that could easily be cleaned and checked for function.
When I start with the egr off the engine revs up high is that normal
Ya unmetered air enters and the fuel system tries to compensate - I scribed the egr on a piece of aluminum 30 thou thick, and cut out the shape and bolted the aluminum in it’s place then you can run it and watch the pintle
Had a 94 Sonoma 4'3...bought new taken care of...biggest piece of shit ever. Constant egr problems after 30k miles...not to mention...fuel pump,,,the injection system...altenator.AC.front end.power windows,,mirrions,,wipers...everything you could think of broke on that hunk of junk.Swore me off GM forever.
Mike Brewer got a 2000 jimmy 4.3. You aint lyin. Bought it cause it was sitting in a field with 95k on it. Some dumbass kid slaughtered the 4l60e in it (i have no idea how). It sat for 4 months before I bought it. I have replaced fuel pump, filter, spider, fpr, maf, egr, pcv, vacuum lines, and lucifers left testicle. Runs great now, but f%@$ this thing.
Forgot the control arms and 2 computers...1st under warranty 2nd one cost me $1000 bucks.It was a beautiful truck too....an SLE with the very rare purple paint.Finally got rid of that monstrosity after the 5th EGR valve. and the dreaded code 32.. Only the 94-96 HO 4'3's had that particular part. Left me on the side of the road many times.One time had a new one put I at the dealer and didn't even make it home..I will say the engine.trans and cooling system were fantastic....no troubles there..but I went back to a new Nissan truck..and I still have it 15 years later. Only been stranded twice with a dead battery and once a 1ten year old radiator hose broke.. I will probably die before this truck.
Mike Brewer yeah. It is hangin in there at the moment. I have done a 350 swap on two s10s. I am almost tempted to fix the next problem with a good ol "bye bye 4.3" action. I just dont know if I am prepared for the mpg loss lol. Arkansas doesnt have inspections so you can do it right
Eli..I might add the replacement Egr's were the "improved" ones with the screen to prevent them from clogging up....but the screens burned up in no time
Mike Brewer if the computers werent so damn touchy, could have bypassed the egr all together. But noooooo. Gm wants every chinese ass part to work in harmony
Delete the egr and problem solved .
Let me guess egr light code came back on half year later lol
Every damn time! I had to clean the screen on mine every six months for a couple years. Now the light still comes on now matter what. I replaced the EGR valve on a wing and a prayer, but that didn't work either. So now I just live with it. Runs the same as ever.
Cuz I did the same and that mf just would not and could not leave me the hell alone, I like the 4.3 but that shit was pissing me off lol ditched the 4.3 and went with the 5.7 and best choice I’ve ever made lol this one had way more mileage than my old 4.3 and yet the old egr on this one doesn’t care at all 😂 one thing is certain tho the 5.7 hella quicker and snappier, with a bit more torque, slapped some 295’s cooper cobras in the back and slotted rotors in the front 😎 shit sails, I love this piece of shit, but now I wanna go ls to see what the fuss is about and or 454 but they expensive
sounds like some tweeker bs
so my car sounds like shit right, just ruh ruh ruh stutter sound, i have change the air flow cause it said, then i gave a descent tune up, new sparks and wires, but for some reason it kicks back when i accerlerate like around 5 RPM do you know why ? i also put a new crank shaft sensor
fuck it someone call me if you know, 2564583744 4.3 engine by the way
Lazaro Gaspar had the same problem on my Tahoe.....had my 3,5,7 wires mixed up....
It's not recommended to blow compressed air through the egr valve, if doing so may result in chunks of carbon to be logged down in the intake ports or into the combustion chambers and can result in internal damage such as valve seat damage cylinder wall gauging which results in loss of compression and oil burning and rough idle and defiantly poor gas milage! the only way to clean the port is a small cleaning brush and vacuum cleaner and carb spray.
Most of the carbon lodges in the top of the tubes on the v8 LS engines. The proper way to do clean that out on the v8 LS engine is to take it to someone that can heat the bolts in the bottom of the V8 engines that have that tube. In this case this is a 4.3L and removing and cleaning the intake makes a huge diff once the new valve is in it. U won't be throwing carbon down an already partially blocked intake by trying to a half assed clean job. The 4.3L intake porting for the EGR can at times cake up severely and in almost every 4.3L I have ever worked on if the valve is caked up and the port at the top of the intake is also caked up inside the intake. THEN it needs to come off>>> (THE REASONS YOU SEE FOLKS REPLACING NEW EGR VALVES). When only the top of the intake port is clear the valve itself is new. It will only functions for few 1000 miles and ya got the problem right back plus you start burning valves up. The people with the 4.8L on up are lucky GM got wise to their mistakes on mounting the EGR on the intake it self so when they went to the HEMI clone motors known as the LS engine they also designed that beautiful plastic wonder called the Vortek intake that works like a gem. The LS motor tube assembly for a new QUALITY part is about 80 bucks you can even buy a cheap EGR for about 40 bucks on EBAY. As stated take it to someone that can get those little bolts in the bottom of the tube out without stripping em and having to remove the exhaust manifold. A blocked EGR can effect compression and not just a running engine but a static compression test can show lower than normal cylinder pressures. Had it happen here. Nearly told a customer his 4.3 engine was shot only 100 pounds a cylinder. Once the manifold was cleaned out and new EGR was in place the engine compression jumped up to 135lbs a cylinder. Not impressive by any means but for a 4.3 4.8 and the 5.3 motor about 140lbs is a normal used engine. Anything above 160 is a phenomenon okay. I have seen 190K 5.3L with 170lbs & 160 a cylinder. The 4.8 with a clean EGR will check out at about 140 to 160 a cyl. Never ever just replace 4.3L intake mounted EGR valve and spray it with air & carb cleaner. THE PROPER PROCEDURE IS TO REMOVE THE INTAKE AND TAKE IT TO A SHOP THAT HAS A DIP TANK. Any machine shop will have your intake for 3 to 6 days. I let em sit in the acid for 3 days myself. Anything less ya still have gum and gunk inside the intake. Then I run my brushes thru em. That also makes the remaining shit fly out onto me all over the work bench and at times out the other side of the intake port holes. Never just slap a new EGR on a 4.3L intake and do a half assed clean out job. A new valve will start making the engine run lean and start frying valves and tops of pistons. A 4.3L intake is not easy easy to remove but easy enough that you can git it done. Remember to mark your distributor on the 4.3L with a distributor. I hope I helped here and nobody bites my head off. Replacing the valve and half assed cleaning is only prolonging a total engine failure or engine burn up.