Shoulder Impingement .....what are the best stretches, rehab and most important prevention exercises (weight Training, bodyweight, Sports like Swimming?...).
What is the muscle that goes around your knee, I think I strained mine while I was doing overhangs. It hurts like kinda on my hamstring/around towards the side/back of my calf? Does it just need rest?
I think that is why my kid calls the muscle guys peacocks. Certainly the better you look( more control/less movement / better tech.) the better you climb
I think it's also important to note that weight training can be productive when a climber is overcoming finger injuries. For example, I'm currently pretty light when it comes to climbing as I get over a strained pulley. In the meantime, I've used the extra free time to focus on pulling power and antagonist training. Might as well do something productive with all that time off of the wall!
I have always supplemented my climbing with strength, conditioning and mobility work. It takes up a lot of extra time but I have never gotten injured and my body feels amazing.
Great video and really liked the emphasis of 75/25 climb/train. Only recently got back into weightlifting (20 year break from bodybuilding) and morale-fun factor is so much better. I never liked climb training per se so this is more sustainable for me. A lot of weightlifting for me has been about peak contractions and extension of all joints-which I think has helped avoid my getting hurt -eventhough had many bad falls. Feel like my hand and finger strength is getter stronger bcoz of varying grip/weightlifting exercises.
Linked here from Emil’s channel. Great video. Personally I do 100% climbing and it’s actually because of point 2 for weight training. I find lifting weights extremely boring even if I have weights at home. But I love climbing so much I’ll just go do it if I’m feeling down and it makes me feel better. Even if I’m not climbing hard boulders I can do ones that make me feel like I have flow and have a great time. Based on this I think one thing you should make clear is that this is assuming your primary goal is to climb harder. My primary goal is to not be too fat and climbing is enough for me :)
That's great! Climbing is such a great sport as it can keep you healthy and be fun, whereas typical weight training isn't for everyone. It can be hard to maintain because it can be, as you said, boring. Thanks for commenting! (also just keep in mind sometimes cross training a little is helpful just to avoid some injuries so you can keep enjoying the sport you love :) )
yeah, i'm not a big fan of weight training. The only reason i do it is because the closest climbing gym to me is a bit of a drive so i only climb once a week. once i move out and live closer to a climbing gym, i'll probably just climb and maybe do yoga once or twice a week.
you deserve so many more views but I'm so happy I've stumbled across your channel, so much helpful information been watching so many to help my body, thank you!
I feel like I digest more than average weight training and climbing info than the average person and this video had great facts and options about the topic. Well done! Very surprised by the low view count
i was a power lifter before climbing, doing a lot of heaving benching, deadlifting, and squatting and you are 100% right the most dangerous part about weightlifting is doing it incorrectly and it’s difficult to do it correctly without the hours of experience.
Interesting if periodization might be useful here. Like, couple of months of weight training followed by cutting and climbing. I was doing intensive bodybuilding, absolutely loved my look in the mirror, lots of compliments but had to downgrade in bouldering because of bulk. Now I'm getting lean again, no weights, more climbing and my performance grows... I miss my muscles a little, tho...:)
Great video. So many good points. Personally, I think weight training is much lower injury risk than climbing if you avoid absolute max effort. I never go more than 90% effort with weights, so it’s a good workout but staying safe, then save max effort for climbing, or running, which I also enjoy.
Interesting video. I am considering incorporating more weight training into my weekly schedule. And this was a good source of information for that, thanks!
Can't believe how much info obtained in this video. I'm sure it takes so much effort to make the video to cover as much angle and views as possible. Merci!
I’ve been climbing for two years and now I’m doing v10/v12 boulders. My training is 80% weighed and 20% climbing. From my perspective once you’ve learned proper technique is more about how strong you are.
yeah it depends on who you are and how you get stronger, for some people, climbing is the best way to gain muscle, but for some people, lifting works a lot better
I agree, 5 years into climbing now and maxing at v13. Lots of learning during the way and I would say climbing represents 70% of the total volume. I’m pretty much at the stage where strength isn’t a limiting factor but coordination and technique are.
I spend my weekends climbing and climb training. But during the work week: 1) legs 2) upper body climb conditioning, including antagonistic muscle training. 3) climb specific training. 4) legs 5) rest. Weekend: climb climb. I haven't done this long enough to know if its helping or hurting my climbing. I do know I need to train my legs to prevent knee pain (I work manual labor so its hard on my lower body and back). Only spend 1.5 hours on weekdays training (assuming I work only 8 hours that day), then 10 min of jogging for cardio.
One of the final thoughts is an important one. 1) yeah! stick with it. make sure you give it 6-8 weeks and see how it feels 2) write it down so you can know if it is helping or not Side note: I only see 1 rest day in there. which isn't much! make sure you're allowing yourself enough time to rest and recover (or drink plenty of water to try and help the healing process! lol).
@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for your input and I 💯 agree I do need to pay attention to how much rest I need. I’ll admit the work out routine is based on where I’m at on my menstrual cycle and how much allostatic load I’ve built up during my work day. Some days are brutal with a lot of crawling, ladder climbing and overhead presses. Made the mistake of pushing through after a hard day at work and ended up getting injured and sick. And hydration! Super important!
I would like to give my two cents about the topic. In my experience, gaining size is more about eating than the number of reps you do. For me, it's good to alter intensity and volume, both for consistency, tendon health and even strength gains. I didn't got bigger while doing higher volume and intensity. I did got bigger when I got a gym bro fase, but I was eating like a fucking pig. I didn't train volume, just intensity, and got bigger because of my wannabe powerlifter diet
I think it's great that you point out specificity and the difference between strength and hypertrophy training. I have a related question: I started caliesthenics and weight training for bouldering about 1 year ago. Because I was pretty weak initially, i focused on building volume in all kinds of exercises first (from zero to 15 pull-ups, 5 to 25 ring push-ups, etc.). Then, I realized that I gained quite a lot of weight, I went from about 55kg to 62kg (if anything, losing fat on the way). I then switched to strength-training, so doing sets of at most 5 high-intensity reps, and have increased strength without adding more weight since. Because I look pretty burly relative to other boulderers, and 62kg is quite a lot already for a 1,68m male, I recently asked myself whether I built too much muscle (weight) - after all, climbing is easier the lighter you are - and if there is a way to go back on hypertrophy gains without sacrificing (much) strength, do you know if this is possible and if so, what can be done to achieve it?
Use an overall lower training volume with higher intensity to keep your strength gains but not add any more hypertrophy (bodyweight) as he mentions @7:00. Beyond that, it's mostly diet and overall energy balance that determines your leanness level. You could try lowering carbs to drop some water weight, but in my experience, the slight drop in weight (2-3%) is outweighed by a larger drop in strength, intensity and energy.
Personally I find the use of cables, especially obtuse angle dual cables allow for a lot of very climbing specific exercise opportunities. Pulling and pushing from various angles which seem to come up in climbing often and are not possible to recreate via free weights or most machines. Specificity.
@@HoopersBeta precisely. A personal favorite is simply standing feet shoulder width or wider square to midpoint of the structure, cables at about head height, standing a couple feet past the plane of the cables so my extended position is pulling me forward and using a handle. This places me in a position digging my toes down into the ground leaning back slightly and arms in a Y. Then I retract one arm like loading up for a punch while twisting my hips and pivoting my feet to face the same arm. The opposite arm continues to pull me and I must stabilize against it along with tabalizing my core and keeping my feet planted against the forward tilt. Reset and repeat to the other side. Do for reps. This had really done wonders for my ability to keep my hips into the wall when rotating in overhanging situation. It's like doing partial drop knees for power but not quite so extreme. Sounds weird, but it's done wonders for my stability in my ability to keep myself close. That's just one example I've found with the versatility of dual obtuse cables.
I just found your vids a month or two ago. I am hooked. Your advice is fantastic and your videos are entertaining. Between you and Magnus, I have little use for the rest of youtube. Do you see people for one-time consultations? I covid-over-used my hangboard about a year ago and cannot get rid of left shoulder pain and crepitus. I saw a PT here in Portland for quite a while and made a lot of gains but you might have the best climbing specific rehab/recovery input that I could imagine.
I'm only at an early stage, but I might try occasional weight training as an additional way of quantifying my progress. I say this because V grades can vary, but a kilogram is a kilogram.
I'll answer your question before the video even starts. Should you? YES. is it needed? NO. the fact is weight training is good for all athletes that want to take their sport to the next level. the hard part is finding a good program for you and your desired results.
My baby lives in mass and just climbed a v9. I think he understands how to specifically train groups. I think they call the big lifters, “peacocks”. Great sport
Hey Jason! I was wondering if you considered a Olympic Rings workout a good supplement for climbing instead of lifting weights. Hope you keep putting amazing content out!
Yeah I love using rings! One of my training days is working on body calisthenics and some of that includes rings. I even have a cool setup that allows me to perform single arm inverted rows on the rings while using my legs as if cave climbing and reaching to the next hold :) They are helpful in building strength and awareness. I actually do more calisthenics than weight training, BUT, I still thinking lifting weights has it's purpose (I do dead lifts every week and I use weights for my forearm and shoulder prehab). Good question!
Loved the video, very insightful. I was wondering though if this applies to any kind of resistance training like calisthenics or other body weight exercise regimes or strictly to lifting?
Just depends on the circumstances (how each exercise is used). You could build bigger legs with cycling than heavy squats if you wanted to, and you could also build bigger legs with squats than with cycling if you programmed it right. Just depends.
Hello, can you please clarify targeting a specific energy system? From my understanding, as a lead climber, I should focus on endurance style weight training. However, this training style can cause me to put on too much muscle mass? What set and rep ranges can I do to build strength and endurance but not bulk up.
Bodybuilder/Setter here. Just go watch pure strength training vids. Wenning strength would be a good start. I say this because strength and endurance are opposite sides of the training spectrum and if you want to make your goals you need to understand training from outside the climber world because most don't understand training outside of calisthenic movements.
So you recommend spending more time climbing and less time weight training. It may be just me but I find I can't climb as often as I like even without time constraints. My skin and fingers/forearms need at least two days between each session.
I had the same problem because my climbing sessions were way too hard! I climbed all out every single time and never went out of the gym < 4 to 5 hours. This way i could only go for one to two sessions per week. Now i do "only" two to three hours per session with more focus (on technique OR max power OR endurance) and i can easily do 3 sessions per week. Even my skin isn't as damaged as before! I hope this may help you.
This is a great response, Christkind! There are many components to look at as to why you can't climb (esp. if it's a skin issue), and you nailed one of them. Often people feel like they need to do these monsterous sessions to feel absolutely crushed in order to make progress, which just isn't the truth. You should be doing enough work, in an efficient time, and trust the numbers (if you're tracking your training, which you should), not just basing it off of how long you go for. Thanks for commenting!
Low volume, high intensity, so like 3 sets of 5,3, 1-2 reps? Im guessing only top rep matters as long as you are tracking strength gains? Coach Horst loves this set and rep range for the DL. But i have often wondered if this applies to pullups, floor presses, etc
Yeah that's a great model. If you're not warmed up then I typically do 4-5 total sets, 10, 6, 5, 3, 1-2 to get settled in better. It can be used for a lot of strength training from dead lifts to weighted pull ups! Good question
So I play other sports besides climbing and I lift for them, and I have to say climbing alone gets you aesthetic but it doesn't get me as strong for the sports
I’d like to know how to deal with burnout and being disciplined to resist ego. cuz I have a bad habit of being overhyped and climbing for 3 hours. I wanna do a day of weight training and some extra calisthenics without overtraining and fatiguing myself to the point where I feel week and get frustrated
Mark Ripatoe would destroy this guy’s arguments. Science is off. Size mass is based on eating. If you do low reps with high weight it’s called progressive overload. That’s how you get bigger.. not smaller. The bike example is also BS. To much to pick apart.
I started weight lifting and got stronger, unfortunately I put on too much weight doing so. Wish I knew. Now I have to figure how to lose the weight but somehow keeps the gains. Any advice?
I don't want to be funny buuut.... where was the promised science? I'm halfway through didn't see any studies or any data? Just armchair reasoning? I went to the link in the description for "in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles" and there were just more links to videos there?
Could you do a video on nerve related pain in the elbow area? I'm suffering from ulnar nerve pain which is caused by an entrapment in the neck shoulder area and it is slowly getting better. Maybe you have experience with other climbers which had the same issues. Especially in compression boulders the tension in my suffering arm is unbearable... Maybe you got some tips for me, thanks
Good call! Yes, we definitely can. Nerve entrapment unfortunately can be common in climbing due to some of the extreme positions we go into as well as sometimes just overdevelopment of muscles that may entrap the nerves. We'll get to work on it! As for your specific case. Finding out if the compression is indeed coming from your neck versus someplace else (elbow, shoulder, and wrist/hand are also possible) is key to treating it. Then, understanding that once you free up the nerve it still takes a bit to heal/recover is important so we give it time to properly recover.
I've noticed a sore Acromioclavicular (ac) joint after using the moonboard? Could you do a video on rehabbing (exercising/stretching/rom) to assist the ac joint? This videos are awesome thanks.
@@HoopersBeta I know the shoulder is extremely complex but from what I could tell on my own the pain is only at the point of the prominent protruding bone at the end of my clavicle. I didn't notice the pain is much while I was warm and working on the moon board but afterwards it was quite sore for almost 2 weeks. I rehabbed it for a few weeks and it's doing much better but now I'm trying to figure out what I can strengthen to prevent that from happening again. I had a project I was working on where I had to cut feet and grab with a very outreached arm. I'm assuming I didn't protect or engage my shoulder enough before waiting that arm. I didn't fall on my shoulder on my shoulder.
The assumption you make me be the correct one. Not engaging your shoulders, particularly when cutting feet, is common but is a mistake which places a lot of strain and stress on the shoulders and can cause numerous injuries. Proper shoulder training, warm ups, and practice on keeping them engaged while climbing may be your solution.
There's a big misconseption that weight training immediately makes you "bulk out". Even with hyoertrophy training, gaining muscle is hard! especially if you're already a trained athlete, Also I'd say calorie consumption is a bigger factor than the type of training you do.
Great additional point! Often people will start weight training and then think they need to consume drastically increase their calorie consumption perhaps pre and post-workout, and they often over do it. That in it's own may add to them feeling "bulked out" when really they may just be over-eating. It's a tough balance sometimes!
@@HoopersBeta additional point? This should be one of the primary points, since all these climbers are wary of gaining muscle, thinking the +10lbs of noobie gains from 12 months of dedicated lifting will lower them a solid grade purely off of weight.
We have some body weight and resistance band videos but no, haven't done that yet. We will keep it in mind, although! We have just been keeping them more simple, equipment wise, since we started doing more training videos around the time that the pandemic started.
Weight lifting can be beneficial for teenagers, absolutely. It can help reduce injury risk particularly if they have good guidance and they don't try and lift too much weight too quickly. That can be a hard balance with teenagers because they will get strong fast thanks to all the hormones circulating in their body.
Do calisthenics, if you learn to front lever, one arm pullup now before you finish growing you'll pick it up quick because you're light then you've just got to maintain as you grow, way harder to learn as an adult when you weigh more :)
hm, im currently doing bodyweight and weight training 100% of the time, I’ve only tried climbing once, I loved it, but I want to keep my main focus on calisthenics, what is your advice?
Climbing is bodyweight training? hah! Find balance! Slightly reduce some of your other training and incorporate climbing once or twice a week. But most importantly, do the things you love!
The statement “specificity and weight training is very important” is at best inaccurate, at worst, plain wrong. Specific muscles will probably be trained quite well just climbing. But there is little to no reason that accomplished climbers, climbing routes or bouldering, should at least deadlift, squat and bench press/press at least 1.5-2 times their own body weight. No reason at all.
@@frommetoyou5450 the bicep muscle is attached to the shoulder. Its actually the main muscle supporting the shoulder, from what I know. So I think its a descent exercise to warm the shoulder up. Although rotator cuffs are also important to warm up...
Ok so i'm a beginner in climbing, think skinny girl who hasn't done much sports and basically has spaghetti arms (can't do a single pull up) . i climb 3 days a week but I've gotten to a point where i seem to get stuck at a certain level and can't do any more difficult climbs because of weakness. so i started some weight training to get stronger to climb better.. now iv'e definitely gotten so sore and tired from weight training that my climbing suffered even more from it. got any tips of how to train better?
You cant do everything at once. If you are trying to get strong in the gym, make that you priority for 4 weeks while doing easier and less frequent climbing training. After that lower the gym volume and start climbing more.
Finding that balance is important. Your initial improvements in climbing may have been more based upon improving your technique (with some neurological and physical changes as well). Think, improved tension, improved foot placement, learning to not overgrip, etc. Like you mentioned, you are newer at this, so the adaptations will come slowly, but they will come if you are patient. 1) make sure you aren't over doing it. If you're sore, you may need to rest. Think of your life / work schedule and try to base your training around that. 2) find a healthy balance, you can still get stronger by continuing to climb, but you may want to supplement it with some weight training. 3) work on different styles of climbing! Cave climbing will work your muscles in a different manner than slab climbing will. 4) make sure it stays fun. If you love climbing, you will need to do some training to become better at it, but don't lose sight of the ultimate goal: to have fun climbing :)
you only get sore when it's new and your body is not used to it. Keep at it and you won't feel all that sore from it anymore. If you reach 10 pullups, you'll probably add half a grade. If your core improves a lot as well, you'll add another half grade. Add some finger strength and you'll add another grade. So all this can get you from say v3 to v5 in 2 to 6 months depending on your dedication. Since you're a beginner, better climbing technique probably gets you one to two additional grades up as well so that's where the most gains might come from. So in a dream world you can go from v3 to v7 in a year. More realistically, v3 to v5 unless you're insane and climbing is your life. Good luck :)
@Hooper"s Beta i used to do alot of fitness and muscle gain (volume), there were 2 types of training: 1)volume and ability to lift more wheight and 2) strength endurance Just for climbing i would say you want endurance and strength without the volume and weight.. Which is achieved by plenty of repetition with lower weight instead of like 4 reps with heavy weight because that would give you volume? If i wanted to be shreded and lift max weights i did lower weight high rep and cardio (running) body building = heavy weight and low reps (im stating this because you say the opposite in your video)
I thought bicep curls are great for getting blood into the elbows and injury prevention. especially if you're working on high impact moves like one arm chinup
Got an injury or training-related topic you'd like us to cover? Comment and let us know!
Antagonist workouts, how often & when to schedule in training plans (can you do it on off days?)
Shoulder Impingement .....what are the best stretches, rehab and most important prevention exercises (weight Training, bodyweight, Sports like Swimming?...).
how to deal with wrist pain and building up more resistance in the wrist joint
What is the muscle that goes around your knee, I think I strained mine while I was doing overhangs. It hurts like kinda on my hamstring/around towards the side/back of my calf? Does it just need rest?
Just got a dislocated elbow and working on rehabbing it, pretty brutal
The better you look the better you climb! That’s the rules!!!
Dang it!! How could I forget the most important rule? Look good feel good. Feel good send hard. Duh. Thanks for the addition / correct.
I think that is why my kid calls the muscle guys peacocks. Certainly the better you look( more control/less movement / better tech.) the better you climb
He had the same pull up ( finger hold) device. He is starting med school next year.
If you didn't look rad, did you even send?
Shirtless-bouldering-bro-ology! Magnus Mitbo sends his blessings
I think it's also important to note that weight training can be productive when a climber is overcoming finger injuries. For example, I'm currently pretty light when it comes to climbing as I get over a strained pulley. In the meantime, I've used the extra free time to focus on pulling power and antagonist training. Might as well do something productive with all that time off of the wall!
I agree! it's a great time to focus on other areas / weaknesses that you may have noticed. Great share!
One of the most informative climbing related training videos I’ve come across. Definitely going to apply this knowledge to my routine. Sick vid bruv
Thought I'd mention Emil gave you a shout-out in his latest video, congrats!
Awesome! Appreciate the shout-out and love to see new faces here :)
I have always supplemented my climbing with strength, conditioning and mobility work. It takes up a lot of extra time but I have never gotten injured and my body feels amazing.
Fantastic! Happy to hear :)
Great video and really liked the emphasis of 75/25 climb/train. Only recently got back into weightlifting (20 year break from bodybuilding) and morale-fun factor is so much better. I never liked climb training per se so this is more sustainable for me. A lot of weightlifting for me has been about peak contractions and extension of all joints-which I think has helped avoid my getting hurt -eventhough had many bad falls. Feel like my hand and finger strength is getter stronger bcoz of varying grip/weightlifting exercises.
Linked here from Emil’s channel. Great video. Personally I do 100% climbing and it’s actually because of point 2 for weight training. I find lifting weights extremely boring even if I have weights at home. But I love climbing so much I’ll just go do it if I’m feeling down and it makes me feel better. Even if I’m not climbing hard boulders I can do ones that make me feel like I have flow and have a great time. Based on this I think one thing you should make clear is that this is assuming your primary goal is to climb harder. My primary goal is to not be too fat and climbing is enough for me :)
That's great! Climbing is such a great sport as it can keep you healthy and be fun, whereas typical weight training isn't for everyone. It can be hard to maintain because it can be, as you said, boring. Thanks for commenting!
(also just keep in mind sometimes cross training a little is helpful just to avoid some injuries so you can keep enjoying the sport you love :) )
yeah, i'm not a big fan of weight training. The only reason i do it is because the closest climbing gym to me is a bit of a drive so i only climb once a week. once i move out and live closer to a climbing gym, i'll probably just climb and maybe do yoga once or twice a week.
you deserve so many more views but I'm so happy I've stumbled across your channel, so much helpful information
been watching so many to help my body, thank you!
Thank you! :)
These vids keep getting better! Thanks for the insights and for the laughs!
I feel like I digest more than average weight training and climbing info than the average person and this video had great facts and options about the topic. Well done! Very surprised by the low view count
So killer, dudes. Thanks for putting in all of the thorough effort!
i was a power lifter before climbing, doing a lot of heaving benching, deadlifting, and squatting and you are 100% right the most dangerous part about weightlifting is doing it incorrectly and it’s difficult to do it correctly without the hours of experience.
Thanks for your comment and adding in your experience / expertise!
Good job & funny as usual ! Thanks ! I recommand your channel to every climbers i know :)
Awesome! Recommendations like that are super helpful so thank you for your support.
Interesting if periodization might be useful here. Like, couple of months of weight training followed by cutting and climbing. I was doing intensive bodybuilding, absolutely loved my look in the mirror, lots of compliments but had to downgrade in bouldering because of bulk. Now I'm getting lean again, no weights, more climbing and my performance grows... I miss my muscles a little, tho...:)
I still train weights.Why? Because even though I love climbing, there is more to life. Having a bit of additional strength is great.
Great video. So many good points. Personally, I think weight training is much lower injury risk than climbing if you avoid absolute max effort. I never go more than 90% effort with weights, so it’s a good workout but staying safe, then save max effort for climbing, or running, which I also enjoy.
this channel is so good!
Interesting video. I am considering incorporating more weight training into my weekly schedule. And this was a good source of information for that, thanks!
When I don't climb. I do squats and antagonist muscles. From what I know, antagonist muscles is one of the best ways to prevent injury.
Balance is always super important so yes, working antagonist muscles is a good use of your time.
100% I do a well round leg workout, push exercises, then pull if I have time or energy left over.
Rad info, rad video. Thank you for the effort and time put into this
I've been looking for info about weight training and climbing for a long long time. Never found something good enough. Just did, thank you!
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful.
Can't believe how much info obtained in this video. I'm sure it takes so much effort to make the video to cover as much angle and views as possible. Merci!
Haha yes! It certainly does. Thank you for taking the time to share your appreciation for the work!
exactly what i've been looking for! thank you!
I’ve been climbing for two years and now I’m doing v10/v12 boulders. My training is 80% weighed and 20% climbing. From my perspective once you’ve learned proper technique is more about how strong you are.
yeah it depends on who you are and how you get stronger, for some people, climbing is the best way to gain muscle, but for some people, lifting works a lot better
Because i love climbing my weighted training will be never more than my climbing.maybe around 60% climbing and 40 % strengthening.
I agree, 5 years into climbing now and maxing at v13. Lots of learning during the way and I would say climbing represents 70% of the total volume. I’m pretty much at the stage where strength isn’t a limiting factor but coordination and technique are.
I weight trained for 10 years prior to climbing. Got v8 in my first year, my experience was learning technique not getting strong.
I spend my weekends climbing and climb training. But during the work week:
1) legs
2) upper body climb conditioning, including antagonistic muscle training.
3) climb specific training.
4) legs
5) rest.
Weekend: climb climb.
I haven't done this long enough to know if its helping or hurting my climbing. I do know I need to train my legs to prevent knee pain (I work manual labor so its hard on my lower body and back). Only spend 1.5 hours on weekdays training (assuming I work only 8 hours that day), then 10 min of jogging for cardio.
One of the final thoughts is an important one. 1) yeah! stick with it. make sure you give it 6-8 weeks and see how it feels 2) write it down so you can know if it is helping or not
Side note: I only see 1 rest day in there. which isn't much! make sure you're allowing yourself enough time to rest and recover (or drink plenty of water to try and help the healing process! lol).
@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for your input and I 💯 agree I do need to pay attention to how much rest I need.
I’ll admit the work out routine is based on where I’m at on my menstrual cycle and how much allostatic load I’ve built up during my work day. Some days are brutal with a lot of crawling, ladder climbing and overhead presses. Made the mistake of pushing through after a hard day at work and ended up getting injured and sick.
And hydration! Super important!
That jogging bit is a joke right?
I would like to give my two cents about the topic. In my experience, gaining size is more about eating than the number of reps you do. For me, it's good to alter intensity and volume, both for consistency, tendon health and even strength gains. I didn't got bigger while doing higher volume and intensity. I did got bigger when I got a gym bro fase, but I was eating like a fucking pig. I didn't train volume, just intensity, and got bigger because of my wannabe powerlifter diet
This was super helpful thank you!!
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful and thanks for commenting.
I think it's great that you point out specificity and the difference between strength and hypertrophy training. I have a related question: I started caliesthenics and weight training for bouldering about 1 year ago. Because I was pretty weak initially, i focused on building volume in all kinds of exercises first (from zero to 15 pull-ups, 5 to 25 ring push-ups, etc.). Then, I realized that I gained quite a lot of weight, I went from about 55kg to 62kg (if anything, losing fat on the way). I then switched to strength-training, so doing sets of at most 5 high-intensity reps, and have increased strength without adding more weight since. Because I look pretty burly relative to other boulderers, and 62kg is quite a lot already for a 1,68m male, I recently asked myself whether I built too much muscle (weight) - after all, climbing is easier the lighter you are - and if there is a way to go back on hypertrophy gains without sacrificing (much) strength, do you know if this is possible and if so, what can be done to achieve it?
Use an overall lower training volume with higher intensity to keep your strength gains but not add any more hypertrophy (bodyweight) as he mentions @7:00. Beyond that, it's mostly diet and overall energy balance that determines your leanness level. You could try lowering carbs to drop some water weight, but in my experience, the slight drop in weight (2-3%) is outweighed by a larger drop in strength, intensity and energy.
Personally I find the use of cables, especially obtuse angle dual cables allow for a lot of very climbing specific exercise opportunities. Pulling and pushing from various angles which seem to come up in climbing often and are not possible to recreate via free weights or most machines. Specificity.
Great use of your equipment / available tools! Nice to do different angles to help emulate the different forces you may experience while climbing :)
@@HoopersBeta precisely. A personal favorite is simply standing feet shoulder width or wider square to midpoint of the structure, cables at about head height, standing a couple feet past the plane of the cables so my extended position is pulling me forward and using a handle. This places me in a position digging my toes down into the ground leaning back slightly and arms in a Y. Then I retract one arm like loading up for a punch while twisting my hips and pivoting my feet to face the same arm. The opposite arm continues to pull me and I must stabilize against it along with tabalizing my core and keeping my feet planted against the forward tilt. Reset and repeat to the other side. Do for reps. This had really done wonders for my ability to keep my hips into the wall when rotating in overhanging situation. It's like doing partial drop knees for power but not quite so extreme. Sounds weird, but it's done wonders for my stability in my ability to keep myself close. That's just one example I've found with the versatility of dual obtuse cables.
I just found your vids a month or two ago. I am hooked. Your advice is fantastic and your videos are entertaining. Between you and Magnus, I have little use for the rest of youtube. Do you see people for one-time consultations? I covid-over-used my hangboard about a year ago and cannot get rid of left shoulder pain and crepitus. I saw a PT here in Portland for quite a while and made a lot of gains but you might have the best climbing specific rehab/recovery input that I could imagine.
Stoked that you found us and thanks for the positive comments!!
I'm only at an early stage, but I might try occasional weight training as an additional way of quantifying my progress. I say this because V grades can vary, but a kilogram is a kilogram.
I'll answer your question before the video even starts. Should you? YES. is it needed? NO. the fact is weight training is good for all athletes that want to take their sport to the next level. the hard part is finding a good program for you and your desired results.
The problem with deadlifts and squats is that you get DOMS for 3 days and it’s really hard to do them often enough to not get DOMS.
Should climbers weight train. My guess before even watching is probably yes.
My baby lives in mass and just climbed a v9. I think he understands how to specifically train groups. I think they call the big lifters, “peacocks”. Great sport
Hey Jason! I was wondering if you considered a Olympic Rings workout a good supplement for climbing instead of lifting weights. Hope you keep putting amazing content out!
Yeah I love using rings! One of my training days is working on body calisthenics and some of that includes rings. I even have a cool setup that allows me to perform single arm inverted rows on the rings while using my legs as if cave climbing and reaching to the next hold :) They are helpful in building strength and awareness. I actually do more calisthenics than weight training, BUT, I still thinking lifting weights has it's purpose (I do dead lifts every week and I use weights for my forearm and shoulder prehab).
Good question!
@@HoopersBeta Hope you can make a rings workout video with different level progressions in the future!
Loved the video, very insightful. I was wondering though if this applies to any kind of resistance training like calisthenics or other body weight exercise regimes or strictly to lifting?
I completely disagree with your argument at 7:20. Are you suggesting that cycling builds bigger legs that heavy squats?
Just depends on the circumstances (how each exercise is used). You could build bigger legs with cycling than heavy squats if you wanted to, and you could also build bigger legs with squats than with cycling if you programmed it right. Just depends.
Hello, can you please clarify targeting a specific energy system? From my understanding, as a lead climber, I should focus on endurance style weight training. However, this training style can cause me to put on too much muscle mass? What set and rep ranges can I do to build strength and endurance but not bulk up.
Bodybuilder/Setter here. Just go watch pure strength training vids. Wenning strength would be a good start. I say this because strength and endurance are opposite sides of the training spectrum and if you want to make your goals you need to understand training from outside the climber world because most don't understand training outside of calisthenic movements.
You could try bouldering for strength ;)
So you recommend spending more time climbing and less time weight training.
It may be just me but I find I can't climb as often as I like even without time constraints.
My skin and fingers/forearms need at least two days between each session.
I had the same problem because my climbing sessions were way too hard! I climbed all out every single time and never went out of the gym < 4 to 5 hours. This way i could only go for one to two sessions per week. Now i do "only" two to three hours per session with more focus (on technique OR max power OR endurance) and i can easily do 3 sessions per week. Even my skin isn't as damaged as before!
I hope this may help you.
This is a great response, Christkind! There are many components to look at as to why you can't climb (esp. if it's a skin issue), and you nailed one of them. Often people feel like they need to do these monsterous sessions to feel absolutely crushed in order to make progress, which just isn't the truth. You should be doing enough work, in an efficient time, and trust the numbers (if you're tracking your training, which you should), not just basing it off of how long you go for. Thanks for commenting!
Low volume, high intensity, so like 3 sets of 5,3, 1-2 reps? Im guessing only top rep matters as long as you are tracking strength gains? Coach Horst loves this set and rep range for the DL. But i have often wondered if this applies to pullups, floor presses, etc
Yeah that's a great model. If you're not warmed up then I typically do 4-5 total sets, 10, 6, 5, 3, 1-2 to get settled in better. It can be used for a lot of strength training from dead lifts to weighted pull ups! Good question
Yes
So I play other sports besides climbing and I lift for them, and I have to say climbing alone gets you aesthetic but it doesn't get me as strong for the sports
I’d like to know how to deal with burnout and being disciplined to resist ego. cuz I have a bad habit of being overhyped and climbing for 3 hours. I wanna do a day of weight training and some extra calisthenics without overtraining and fatiguing myself to the point where I feel week and get frustrated
The link for the notes about this video is not valid (can access directly from the website though :p ). Great work as always :D
Thank you! Fixed :)
Mark Ripatoe would destroy this guy’s arguments. Science is off. Size mass is based on eating. If you do low reps with high weight it’s called progressive overload. That’s how you get bigger.. not smaller. The bike example is also BS. To much to pick apart.
I started weight lifting and got stronger, unfortunately I put on too much weight doing so. Wish I knew. Now I have to figure how to lose the weight but somehow keeps the gains. Any advice?
Is there a video about how to prevent injuries
I don't want to be funny buuut.... where was the promised science? I'm halfway through didn't see any studies or any data? Just armchair reasoning? I went to the link in the description for "in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles" and there were just more links to videos there?
Great video, what's your take on calisthenics
Love Calisthenics! I have my own calisthenics routine I do once a week.
Could you do a video on nerve related pain in the elbow area? I'm suffering from ulnar nerve pain which is caused by an entrapment in the neck shoulder area and it is slowly getting better. Maybe you have experience with other climbers which had the same issues. Especially in compression boulders the tension in my suffering arm is unbearable... Maybe you got some tips for me, thanks
Good call! Yes, we definitely can. Nerve entrapment unfortunately can be common in climbing due to some of the extreme positions we go into as well as sometimes just overdevelopment of muscles that may entrap the nerves. We'll get to work on it!
As for your specific case. Finding out if the compression is indeed coming from your neck versus someplace else (elbow, shoulder, and wrist/hand are also possible) is key to treating it. Then, understanding that once you free up the nerve it still takes a bit to heal/recover is important so we give it time to properly recover.
I've noticed a sore Acromioclavicular (ac) joint after using the moonboard? Could you do a video on rehabbing (exercising/stretching/rom) to assist the ac joint? This videos are awesome thanks.
have you had an AC joint injury in the past? Are we certain it's the AC joint? Are you falling a lot off the moonboard?
@@HoopersBeta I know the shoulder is extremely complex but from what I could tell on my own the pain is only at the point of the prominent protruding bone at the end of my clavicle. I didn't notice the pain is much while I was warm and working on the moon board but afterwards it was quite sore for almost 2 weeks. I rehabbed it for a few weeks and it's doing much better but now I'm trying to figure out what I can strengthen to prevent that from happening again. I had a project I was working on where I had to cut feet and grab with a very outreached arm. I'm assuming I didn't protect or engage my shoulder enough before waiting that arm. I didn't fall on my shoulder on my shoulder.
The assumption you make me be the correct one. Not engaging your shoulders, particularly when cutting feet, is common but is a mistake which places a lot of strain and stress on the shoulders and can cause numerous injuries. Proper shoulder training, warm ups, and practice on keeping them engaged while climbing may be your solution.
Should weightlifters climb?
There's a big misconseption that weight training immediately makes you "bulk out". Even with hyoertrophy training, gaining muscle is hard! especially if you're already a trained athlete, Also I'd say calorie consumption is a bigger factor than the type of training you do.
Great additional point! Often people will start weight training and then think they need to consume drastically increase their calorie consumption perhaps pre and post-workout, and they often over do it. That in it's own may add to them feeling "bulked out" when really they may just be over-eating. It's a tough balance sometimes!
Intermittent fasting bro :) find a timeframe that works for you I tend to go for an 18/6 or 20/4 split :)
@@HoopersBeta additional point? This should be one of the primary points, since all these climbers are wary of gaining muscle, thinking the +10lbs of noobie gains from 12 months of dedicated lifting will lower them a solid grade purely off of weight.
Strongest guy in my gym is the strongest guy because he just climbs a lot. That's all he does.
Do you have a list somewhere of weight workouts that are super specific to climbers?
We have some body weight and resistance band videos but no, haven't done that yet. We will keep it in mind, although! We have just been keeping them more simple, equipment wise, since we started doing more training videos around the time that the pandemic started.
What if I've been lifting for years and only started climbing recently, does it all still apply when my activities are not fully climbing related?
I think it only applies if you want to maximize gains specifically for climbing. Generalists will be generalists :p
What is your view on weight training (or training in general) for teenagers?
Weight lifting can be beneficial for teenagers, absolutely. It can help reduce injury risk particularly if they have good guidance and they don't try and lift too much weight too quickly. That can be a hard balance with teenagers because they will get strong fast thanks to all the hormones circulating in their body.
Do calisthenics, if you learn to front lever, one arm pullup now before you finish growing you'll pick it up quick because you're light then you've just got to maintain as you grow, way harder to learn as an adult when you weigh more :)
hm, im currently doing bodyweight and weight training 100% of the time, I’ve only tried climbing once, I loved it, but I want to keep my main focus on calisthenics, what is your advice?
Climbing is bodyweight training? hah! Find balance! Slightly reduce some of your other training and incorporate climbing once or twice a week. But most importantly, do the things you love!
@@HoopersBeta thanks for the advice 🤙🤙, ill try to swap at least one workout session per week for climbing 🧗♀️
The statement “specificity and weight training is very important” is at best inaccurate, at worst, plain wrong. Specific muscles will probably be trained quite well just climbing. But there is little to no reason that accomplished climbers, climbing routes or bouldering, should at least deadlift, squat and bench press/press at least 1.5-2 times their own body weight. No reason at all.
what if I do one set of 10 bicep curls to warm up my shoulder? Is this a long-term deffect?
Bicep curls to warm up the shoulders.?
@@frommetoyou5450 the bicep muscle is attached to the shoulder. Its actually the main muscle supporting the shoulder, from what I know. So I think its a descent exercise to warm the shoulder up. Although rotator cuffs are also important to warm up...
Ok so i'm a beginner in climbing, think skinny girl who hasn't done much sports and basically has spaghetti arms (can't do a single pull up) . i climb 3 days a week but I've gotten to a point where i seem to get stuck at a certain level and can't do any more difficult climbs because of weakness. so i started some weight training to get stronger to climb better.. now iv'e definitely gotten so sore and tired from weight training that my climbing suffered even more from it. got any tips of how to train better?
You cant do everything at once. If you are trying to get strong in the gym, make that you priority for 4 weeks while doing easier and less frequent climbing training. After that lower the gym volume and start climbing more.
Finding that balance is important. Your initial improvements in climbing may have been more based upon improving your technique (with some neurological and physical changes as well). Think, improved tension, improved foot placement, learning to not overgrip, etc. Like you mentioned, you are newer at this, so the adaptations will come slowly, but they will come if you are patient. 1) make sure you aren't over doing it. If you're sore, you may need to rest. Think of your life / work schedule and try to base your training around that. 2) find a healthy balance, you can still get stronger by continuing to climb, but you may want to supplement it with some weight training. 3) work on different styles of climbing! Cave climbing will work your muscles in a different manner than slab climbing will. 4) make sure it stays fun. If you love climbing, you will need to do some training to become better at it, but don't lose sight of the ultimate goal: to have fun climbing :)
you only get sore when it's new and your body is not used to it. Keep at it and you won't feel all that sore from it anymore. If you reach 10 pullups, you'll probably add half a grade. If your core improves a lot as well, you'll add another half grade. Add some finger strength and you'll add another grade. So all this can get you from say v3 to v5 in 2 to 6 months depending on your dedication. Since you're a beginner, better climbing technique probably gets you one to two additional grades up as well so that's where the most gains might come from. So in a dream world you can go from v3 to v7 in a year. More realistically, v3 to v5 unless you're insane and climbing is your life. Good luck :)
"high intensity doesn't add weight" look at powerlifters and olympic lifters just saying
@Hooper"s Beta i used to do alot of fitness and muscle gain (volume), there were 2 types of training: 1)volume and ability to lift more wheight and 2) strength endurance
Just for climbing i would say you want endurance and strength without the volume and weight.. Which is achieved by plenty of repetition with lower weight instead of like 4 reps with heavy weight because that would give you volume?
If i wanted to be shreded and lift max weights i did lower weight high rep and cardio (running)
body building = heavy weight and low reps
(im stating this because you say the opposite in your video)
I thought bicep curls are great for getting blood into the elbows and injury prevention. especially if you're working on high impact moves like one arm chinup
Thoughts on climbing with a weight vest?
Start slow, with 10lbs. Don't progress the weight as quickly as in the weight room.
PPppfffffttt!! What is this “science” you speak of? Meh…
Love your advice, but could do without the humorous interludes. More science, less 3 Stooges; you don't need it.