Thanks for the in person coaching session and this super in-depth video! I can't wait to get back onto the wall and see how my deadlift training affects my climbing!
Stumbling upon your channel was one of the best things to happen in my climbing journey! Great advice on how I can be more safe and deal with injuries! Thank you! 🙏
Love the bloopers at the end! As a PTA and a climber I really appreciate the incorporation of making things functional to your sport. Always enjoy the alerts for new posts.
My physiotherapist actually recommended me to do RDL a while back. i've been doing it once a week on top of my other training and i did notice way more stability over all when i climb. Good to see this being recommended here :)
A few months ago I started incorporating RDLs into my training as I often strain my legs or at the very least get severe cramp when heelhooking. I can really struggle to top out on outdoor boulders without heel power! Anyway, I watched this video and realised I was doing it all wrong haha. So I've gone right back to the beginning with a smaller weight to make sure I get it right this time. Thanks for the great content as always :)
I started deadlifting again recently to try and get that hormonal response for improving healing in my injured finger, nice to see a video which supports the idea :)
Check out movement for climbers. He goes over some basics that you can do from day one and what you can accomplish in your first year of climbing. If you're talking about how to stay interested, you need to keep pushing yourself.
I have been considering these for my next phase of strength training so this is perfect timing. Great video guys! Also, I'm just getting into video editing myself and those tracking callouts at 2:20 are solid! The work it takes to produce this level of content week after week is immense, so thanks for the hours you're putting in.
Good collab with Geekclimber and good video. Liked the subtle jokery (is that a word ha ha ha). I do dumbbell squats with weights to sides of legs; only recently started back into weightlifting, but was bodybuilder/powerlifter before climbing. Going to check out the weightlifting video you mentioned. Out takes were fun too.
This is great! Deadlifting has always been my favorite lift and I've been doing it way before I started with climbing. I've definitely noticed how it's helpful for body tension while climbing. Only downside I've noticed with deadlifting (at least if you climb alot) is actually the grip part of it - you don't get to rest your grip and forearms between climbing sessions and don't feel completely fresh the day after deadlifting. This is why I will start using straps since I don't do deadlifting for grip strength but for the other benefits. Thanks for the video!
Question about hangboarding and your video breaking down emils 30 day routine: If stiffness (improves max strength) and compliance (improves tendon health) exist on a continuum does this mean that we are constantly undoing one or the other through training, ie taking steps backward by one or the other metric? Or does a compliance block after a max strength block improve tendon health without reducing our maximum strength? How does tendon hypertrophy fit in? Is the primary aspect by which we make permanent forward progress in tendon strength and health at the same time through additional tendon hypertrophy? My thoughts are creating a regime where i cycle the stiffness and compliance training throughout the year maybe 2 weeks on emils routine into 2 weeks into stiffness. maybe applying Stiffness and Compliance training into 1 rounded routine could be the most optimum, or a Stiffness regime in the morning and compliance in the evening? Or maybe the best way is to cycle it into pre / post / during the season. WOuld be great to get a reply, love the channel, thanks!
How cool is that! Thank you for making and sharing this! I was wondering how to incorporate DLs !! (I indeed need the feel good part of it to compensate climbing V0 :))))
i recommend going as far as you with the hip hinge- for some people this will be above the knees. for me it’s a bit below the knees. depends on hamstring flexibility also i trained RDL for years before picking up climbing, and it greatly increased my hamstring flexibility, which was great for when i started climbing
Great video! I showed this to a personal trainer who is also a powerlifter. She said that the RDL's form is much better because for the conventional you are quite sit back. She also said that you should work also on your thoracic mobility for the squat. Hope this could be useful!
Oh cool thanks for sharing! I definitely agree! And yes I have recently included working on more spinal mobility including thoracic extension into m daily routine :) we all have areas we can work on for sure! Thanks for commenting
@@HoopersBeta Absolutely! And thanks for bringing out again the importance of deadlifting! One of my main issues is ankle mobility because of untreated injuries. No one told my parents I should have done some rehab :/ I'm working on it but my ROM is extremely limited (if I put the tip of the toe against the wall, my knee can barely touch the wall; if I get the foot just a centimeter off the wall I cannot touch it with the knee). This hinders my squat, conventional deadlift and also my climbing form (difficult to do rockovers, reach far holds in a static manner, staying close to the wall).
Thx for this Dr Hooper! Would you consider making more videos on wrist injuries? The TFCC one mostly focuses on traumatic rather overuse injuries, and many climbers I know (and I) have chronic wrist pain from slopers and crimps
I recently watched your climbing and weight training video and was looking out for more information on the deadlift. So good timing :-) And very informative. I will try to integrate it into my training routine. Thanks for sharing :)
Twice a week heavy deadlifts is a lot of volume for climbers in my opinion. Especially if you're doing sets in the 2-3 rep range. This is quite taxing on the body and detrimental to your climbing since it takes away a good amount of recovery time. I think once a week is enough and you dont neet to go as low as 2 reps. You can get a stregth training stimulus with 5 rep sets, which lowers injury risk. Also in your video How to NOT Get Injured Climbing (NO GYM - PRO’S ROUTINE), you said that ideally we should include deadlifting in that routine (if equipment is avaiable) and that we shoul only do it once a week. So it seems a bit of a contradiction to me.
Fantastic content every time. The wiggly deadlift got me rolling for sure. Real story: had a friend who never trained hamstrings, did a heel hook by her head, felt a pop and couldn't walk right afterwards. Popped 2 of her proximal hamstrings tendons right off her pelvis and needed to have them surgically reattached. These injuries can be the real deal!
Oh wow! That's terrifying. I have definitely worked with patients post op for avulsion fractures of the hamstrings from the origin and it's a tough surgery. BUT, with guidance they can definitely get back and get strong again :) I hope your friend is doing well now! Hah, glad you enjoyed the wiggle ;P
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the response! Always love the videos. As a fellow DPT I thoroughly appreciate and admire your approach, keep up the great work. (my friend is back crushing again by the way)
Is there really any risk in using mixed grip? Would alternating sides between sets mitigate it? For someone doing gym after a climbing session I can see grip strenght being a limiting factor in getting a progressive overload pretty fast. If doing complementing strenght training on top of climbing session is good idea is another question, but there are only so many days in a week.
What’s the best way to figure out your max weight? Just pulling the heaviest weight I can sounds a little scary. Is there a recommended starting weight for beginners to this exercise?
You're right, can definitely be scary! But, there are many good 1 rep max protocols out there to keep you safe :) The principle is starting with a weight that you can do higher weight with, and then slowly increasing the weight as you decrease reps. You want to start by selecting a weight that you believe you could do ~10 reps of. Rest for a good period (3-5 minutes) then increase the weight to where you believe you could safely do ~6 repetitions. Rest, then shoot for ~3 repetitions. Rest. Finally, start adding weight until you achieve your "1 rep max". Your 1 rep max should be achieved within ~3-4 additional rounds. If you way underestimated your abilities and need more sets, do that on a different day. You don't want to perform loads of 1 rep max tests because then may be increasing injury risk.
3:05 smaller range of motion doesnt make it inherently safer, if anything bigger ROM forces people to use less weights and display more control, just like how a full squat forces you to squat 225 properly instead of quarter reps with 405.
Hi Hooper, I am binging your videos as I just discovered your content. I really appreciate your scientific analysis on different aspects of climbing, especially your consideration of the available literature in combination with real world experience. I know this video is older, but if you do see this comment and have the time to respond I would love to hear your thoughts on one legged deadlifts versus RDLs. Do you think there is any additional benefit or detraction from performing one-legged deadlifts?
Great video! Once the gm opens up agaij I'm gonna be right in these! A question for you though: When people talk about finger strength and training it, I always assumed the goal was thickening of the tendons, but when I searched around all I could find was stuff about trying to reduce the thickness. If thickness isn't the factor controlling finger strength, what is? And is there an science around the most effective way to increase it?
Great, but I would not limit the range of motion, rather I would look to progressively increase it (maybe even do deficits). Climbing is about being strong in many positions, not just very limited range of motion.
While being widely available in gyms in the US I guess, bars and weights are not so common in Europe's gyms (or at home...). We need to dig deeper to find a ring / TRX alternative ;-) !
Double overhand is kinda lame when you get to higher weights, especially so if you have smaller hands/fingers. If I had to double overhand then I could never lift enough to push my posterior chain strength, grip will get plenty of other training.
Are you familiar with Foundation Training? I got into it years ago and "The founder" seems like a great warm-up as well, in that you are engaging more of the upper body... Maybe this could help save some time? Thoughts? I love this idea and seeing a focus on the posterior chain. Thanks!
I think going heavy enough to do sets of 2-3 is too aggressive for someone new to deadlifting. Sure once they have been deadlifting for say 6 months or so and have learned the motion well and have a bit of work capacity you can increase the intensity. I think for beginners they are way better off in the 5-8 rep range to really learn the form better and so the intensity is lower as they learn how to use their body. Not a big deal either way though. Awesome video! Tons of amazing information.
That is a fair point! I would advise a little lower than that (and would be more agreeable to the 4-6 range in some cases) with the small counter argument of fatigue can also play a role in changing form and by the 8th rep at a heavier weight could cause compensations. But that just goes back to one of the most important aspects: not increasing weight too quickly :) Thanks for the great comment!
Love your videos! I'm a physio student and want to focus on sports physiotherapy (especially climbing) later on! I have one question about heel hooking... yes, it's mostly hamstrings that do the work, but aren't adductors also big players? I'm saying it because after a session where I've had to heelhook a lot, I find myself with sore adductors the next day. Do you have any thougth on this? Also, does one actually want to train adductors when yuo want them to be nice and stretched out for hip flexibility? Thanks :)
I consider the deadlift a core exercise for climbing. By core I don't mean abs, but the ability to transfer force from the feet through the hips and shoulders and out to the hands.
Way better for a climber. Professional football player trainers even advise against straight bar deadlifts. They are also getting paid millions of dollars so I’m sure they’re any to protect their investments.
Yes, do full rom or progressively increase it. Partials only if you have pain or flexibility issues that prevent full rom. Climbing is about being strong in all ranges of motion.
Im no expert in the topic but if you want to focus on the legs and back would't it be better to use straps? Otherwise if you just use a double overhand grip it will become the limiting factor. Also, since the intent is to build stregth why not use a variation more focused on the concentric, such as the stiffed-legged deadlift?
We want to work on it all :) That includes our grip strength. Especially since this is for climbers, it is great to incorporate strength of the hands/forearms while engaging the posterior chain to really teach that connection from the fingers all the way to the foot!
@@gezzapk If your grip fails before your legs, are you really training your legs efficiently? If you could prevent that while also saving grip for climbing specific training, wouldnt that be smarter?
12 sets of deadlift especially at 95% is a lot. You may feel under recovered so start out at a lower volume like the set he described but just the first four sets.
why dont just do one leg deadlifts? they also improve stability because they are a unilateral movement. So they are superior to Romanian Deadlifts. Also there is just the need for dumbbells/kettlebells or maybe even resistance bands. Usually climbing gyms (at least in my experience) rarely possess (olympic) barbells. And even if they do, it's even rarer that they can provide enough weight plates to really train RDL.
These are the people that have figured out they should be deadlifting. Gymnasts, pitchers, climbers, golfers, linebackers, ballerinas, swimmers, humans, this is a partial list. Deadlifting is also the best way to learn belly breathing. That and singing.
I just sent my first V9 after doing some light deadlifts for less than a month. I think it helped with coordination and awareness of my lower body/core while climbing. Too bad y'all just gave away my secret!!!
Now all your friends are going to immediately catch up with you ;) Haha that's awesome though! Congrats on the V9 AND on the new coordination and awareness :)
I am a bit sceptical about the heel hook strength gained from deadlifting. The deadlift is all hip extension with the hamstrings, whereas heel hooking is all knee flexion of the hamstrings. You might get an increase in general muscle mass in the hamstrings from deadlifting, and obviously more muscle=more strength, but to get greater, more specific heel hooking strength, would it be better to hop onto a hamstring curl machine? Anecdotally, I can conventional deadlift 2.3 x bodyweight and never include knee extension hamstring exercises in my routine as they aren't relevant to the deadlift, and my heel hooking feels very weak during climbs, especially when done high or at odd angles. I'm also a bit sceptical about the recommendation of the double overhand grip, instead of hook-grip or straps. The double overhand hampers the execution of the deadlift beyond certain weights, as your posterior chain easily exceeds what your hands can grip double overhand, making it unsuitable long term if you want to load up your posterior chain. Even if the weights used by climbers are light, would you really want to hamper the recovery of your grip by doing deadlifts on your off day, instead of using straps and focusing on the posterior chain benefits of the lift, while resting your grip for actual climbing? Of course, if you are a beginner doing RDLS with less than half your bodyweight, then this grip concern doesn't come into play, but more advanced trainees should move away from the double overhand grip Finally, I think the RDL form shown in this video is wrong, there is no reason to stop at the knees on an RDL, provided your hamstrings are flexible enough to go lower. You get more hamstring activation the more your hamstrings stretch, aka during the ROM below the knee, and that top range of motion above the knees is done mostly by the glutes. Lowering the RDL as far as your hamstring ROM allows also adds the extra benefit of increasing hamstring flexibility long term, which is very helpful for climbers. If you see this and feel like replying, please comment especially on the hamstring curl vs deadlift comparison, as I have been wondering if I should add heavy hamstring curls to my gym routine to help with heel hooks!
I bet your heel hooking problems are due to lacking flexibility, not strength. I deadlifted 200kg st 83kg bw and my hooking abilities improved quickly as I gained more and more flexibility. Never had any problems with strength and havent trained my legs for 3 years. Can still dl 170kg tho...
What??? Something which is helpful in other sports can be also helpful for climbing???? Crazy... In many ways climbing is such a great workout, but instead of then also targeting what is not trained prejudices kick in... Doesn't matter what sport or what education most have, there is always the opportunity to make the other atleath bad instead of learning from them. Humans are so slow in learning sadly...
As a PhD in exercise physiology and CSCS teaching weight training at a University, I respectfully disagree. I competed in the powerlifting (USAPL) and the deadlift for years before I found climbing. The grip strengths opposition of thumb and fingers doesn't translate to climbing well. The posterior chain (hamstring, glute, low back) are some of the least used muscles in climbing and require more endurance to consistently keep your hips near the wall rather than max strength capabilities of a deadlift. Entertaining information, but I didn't see any real science.
The fact that you’re a climber and think the posterior chain are some of the least used muscles in climbing is mind boggling unless you literally just started climbing. Why do you think pros like Kyra Condie and Brooke Raboutou deadlift? Considering hamstring strains and tears are some of the most common injuries in climbing, you might want to reconsider your argument. Or, if you prefer, try this instead: Climb literally any route on an overhang without using your posterior chain. (Spoiler: you can, because then you’d be campusing not climbing.)
@@EmileModesitt I'm honestly just trying to progress the field. If you are just climbing overhangs and heel hooking a ton there is some use but that's not most climbers. There is no evidence the deadlift will protect the hamstring which is one of the most injured muscles in any athlete due to its high eccentric stress. The positions of the deadlift fails to mimic any climbing movements (principle of specificity) and is best used for max strength, which isn't practical for body weight climbing. A front loaded squat would be more specific to mobility and stress the more highly used quadriceps. No professional research has highlighted the importance of the hamstring and the deadlift is an even bigger stretch. Check out (Physiology of Rock Climbing, Watts, 2004) and (The Physiology of Rock Climbing Giles, 2006). I'm open to change my mind, but anecdotal support with no physiology/biomechanics basis is just your opinion. Send me some primary research supporting your deadlift and I'll be happy to read it.
I’m not interested in an academic debate on anatomy with you; that’s not my field anyways. I’m just here to tell you’re not “progressing” anything by telling people the posterior chain isn’t really used in climbing. You don’t need a research article to tell you this is inaccurate. If you want proof, refer the challenge in my previous comment of climbing on an overhang without using your posterior chain. I’ll even make it easy on you: you don’t have to heel hook either. Send me a video of you climbing V5 or above on a 30+ degree overhang without using your posterior chain and you’ll have changed the sport of climbing forever with the new amazing technique you’ve somehow developed. We’ll feature it on this channel, Reddit will go crazy, and you’ll become an international sensation. Alternatively, if you can’t, you might consider getting a little more climbing experience or talking to other climbers before making such bold claims about climbing technique.
Check out Geek Climber's video to see his 30-day deadlift challenge! th-cam.com/video/3uuNz9eJWag/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the in person coaching session and this super in-depth video! I can't wait to get back onto the wall and see how my deadlift training affects my climbing!
I’m an Exercise Physiologist and I appreciate your frequent use of peer reviewed literature in your videos!
Thank you 🙏🏋️♂️
Stumbling upon your channel was one of the best things to happen in my climbing journey! Great advice on how I can be more safe and deal with injuries! Thank you! 🙏
Love the bloopers at the end! As a PTA and a climber I really appreciate the incorporation of making things functional to your sport. Always enjoy the alerts for new posts.
Stoked to see the growth and collabs. Slowly but surely, get it gents!
My physiotherapist actually recommended me to do RDL a while back. i've been doing it once a week on top of my other training and i did notice way more stability over all when i climb. Good to see this being recommended here :)
That's awesome! Glad you got that excellent recommendation :)
You've become must-watch.
Thank you for the support!
Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
Absolutely! Especially to Emile for the killer editing job on this one! Thanks for your support.
Thanks to this video I did deadlifts for the first time and met Alex Honnold, became a pro, and now living at the Red! warning: results may vary
Perfect! It's what we all hope for.
A few months ago I started incorporating RDLs into my training as I often strain my legs or at the very least get severe cramp when heelhooking. I can really struggle to top out on outdoor boulders without heel power! Anyway, I watched this video and realised I was doing it all wrong haha. So I've gone right back to the beginning with a smaller weight to make sure I get it right this time. Thanks for the great content as always :)
Can’t wait to check out the geek climber collab, finally!!!
I started deadlifting again recently to try and get that hormonal response for improving healing in my injured finger, nice to see a video which supports the idea :)
The hormonal response is not specific to deadlifting and wont help you heal
Dear Superus Hooperus Duperus, I'm curious when you started climbing and how you got into it.
Check out movement for climbers. He goes over some basics that you can do from day one and what you can accomplish in your first year of climbing.
If you're talking about how to stay interested, you need to keep pushing yourself.
@@cluerip I started climbing a while ago. I was actually asking Dr. Hoopy when and how he started climbing.
@@cluerip you’re jumping to conclusions and answering questions OP didn’t ask.
I have been considering these for my next phase of strength training so this is perfect timing. Great video guys!
Also, I'm just getting into video editing myself and those tracking callouts at 2:20 are solid! The work it takes to produce this level of content week after week is immense, so thanks for the hours you're putting in.
Good collab with Geekclimber and good video. Liked the subtle jokery (is that a word ha ha ha). I do dumbbell squats with weights to sides of legs; only recently started back into weightlifting, but was bodybuilder/powerlifter before climbing. Going to check out the weightlifting video you mentioned. Out takes were fun too.
Thanks for subbing and the comments!
Very clearly explained with ample details. 10/10 would recommend your videos.
Thank you! We greatly appreciate your support.
I love deadlifts, conventional uses more glute than RDL wich helps you engage your hips.
Oh, and single leg RDL's also takes care of counterrotation
This one was funny.
Great info. I'll start doing these today; slowly; slow progression! :)
I love the collaboration and the content! Kudos!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Rdl! Love all the entertaining nuggets in the fantastic well researched and comprehensive how to and why
This is great! Deadlifting has always been my favorite lift and I've been doing it way before I started with climbing. I've definitely noticed how it's helpful for body tension while climbing. Only downside I've noticed with deadlifting (at least if you climb alot) is actually the grip part of it - you don't get to rest your grip and forearms between climbing sessions and don't feel completely fresh the day after deadlifting. This is why I will start using straps since I don't do deadlifting for grip strength but for the other benefits. Thanks for the video!
How heavy do you deadlift?
Question about hangboarding and your video breaking down emils 30 day routine:
If stiffness (improves max strength) and compliance (improves tendon health) exist on a continuum does this mean that we are constantly undoing one or the other through training, ie taking steps backward by one or the other metric? Or does a compliance block after a max strength block improve tendon health without reducing our maximum strength?
How does tendon hypertrophy fit in? Is the primary aspect by which we make permanent forward progress in tendon strength and health at the same time through additional tendon hypertrophy?
My thoughts are creating a regime where i cycle the stiffness and compliance training throughout the year maybe 2 weeks on emils routine into 2 weeks into stiffness. maybe applying Stiffness and Compliance training into 1 rounded routine could be the most optimum, or a Stiffness regime in the morning and compliance in the evening? Or maybe the best way is to cycle it into pre / post / during the season.
WOuld be great to get a reply, love the channel, thanks!
How cool is that! Thank you for making and sharing this!
I was wondering how to incorporate DLs !! (I indeed need the feel good part of it to compensate climbing V0 :))))
Shoutout Emile for summarizing hoops words at 3:50 so well
😆❤️❤️
i recommend going as far as you with the hip hinge- for some people this will be above the knees. for me it’s a bit below the knees. depends on hamstring flexibility
also i trained RDL for years before picking up climbing, and it greatly increased my hamstring flexibility, which was great for when i started climbing
Glad you found it helpful for your climbing!
Great video! I showed this to a personal trainer who is also a powerlifter. She said that the RDL's form is much better because for the conventional you are quite sit back. She also said that you should work also on your thoracic mobility for the squat. Hope this could be useful!
Oh cool thanks for sharing! I definitely agree! And yes I have recently included working on more spinal mobility including thoracic extension into m daily routine :) we all have areas we can work on for sure! Thanks for commenting
@@HoopersBeta Absolutely! And thanks for bringing out again the importance of deadlifting! One of my main issues is ankle mobility because of untreated injuries. No one told my parents I should have done some rehab :/ I'm working on it but my ROM is extremely limited (if I put the tip of the toe against the wall, my knee can barely touch the wall; if I get the foot just a centimeter off the wall I cannot touch it with the knee). This hinders my squat, conventional deadlift and also my climbing form (difficult to do rockovers, reach far holds in a static manner, staying close to the wall).
Thx for this Dr Hooper! Would you consider making more videos on wrist injuries? The TFCC one mostly focuses on traumatic rather overuse injuries, and many climbers I know (and I) have chronic wrist pain from slopers and crimps
I recently watched your climbing and weight training video and was looking out for more information on the deadlift. So good timing :-) And very informative. I will try to integrate it into my training routine. Thanks for sharing :)
Awesome! Thank you!
This is VERY well done - thank you!
Twice a week heavy deadlifts is a lot of volume for climbers in my opinion. Especially if you're doing sets in the 2-3 rep range. This is quite taxing on the body and detrimental to your climbing since it takes away a good amount of recovery time. I think once a week is enough and you dont neet to go as low as 2 reps. You can get a stregth training stimulus with 5 rep sets, which lowers injury risk.
Also in your video How to NOT Get Injured Climbing (NO GYM - PRO’S ROUTINE), you said that ideally we should include deadlifting in that routine (if equipment is avaiable) and that we shoul only do it once a week. So it seems a bit of a contradiction to me.
Once a week is a great addition to training!
I go 2/week in the winter to build and 1/week in-season for exactly that reason.
@@msilv8335 that's a great idea!
@@HoopersBeta I wish I could take credit. I work with a coach at climb strong. :)
Just seen on EPicTV a deadlift based video for climbing with a phenomenal girl, I wrote her and she says she does once a week
Fantastic content every time. The wiggly deadlift got me rolling for sure.
Real story: had a friend who never trained hamstrings, did a heel hook by her head, felt a pop and couldn't walk right afterwards. Popped 2 of her proximal hamstrings tendons right off her pelvis and needed to have them surgically reattached. These injuries can be the real deal!
Oh wow! That's terrifying. I have definitely worked with patients post op for avulsion fractures of the hamstrings from the origin and it's a tough surgery. BUT, with guidance they can definitely get back and get strong again :)
I hope your friend is doing well now!
Hah, glad you enjoyed the wiggle ;P
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the response! Always love the videos. As a fellow DPT I thoroughly appreciate and admire your approach, keep up the great work.
(my friend is back crushing again by the way)
Awesome video! 💪🏻
I've missed it and definitely found benefit to my climbing. I'll be back at deadlifts, as soon as it is legal for me to go to the gym.
I quite from barbel gym exercises to train climbing, I guess I should get back to DL and combine both!
Is there really any risk in using mixed grip? Would alternating sides between sets mitigate it? For someone doing gym after a climbing session I can see grip strenght being a limiting factor in getting a progressive overload pretty fast. If doing complementing strenght training on top of climbing session is good idea is another question, but there are only so many days in a week.
What’s the best way to figure out your max weight? Just pulling the heaviest weight I can sounds a little scary. Is there a recommended starting weight for beginners to this exercise?
You're right, can definitely be scary! But, there are many good 1 rep max protocols out there to keep you safe :) The principle is starting with a weight that you can do higher weight with, and then slowly increasing the weight as you decrease reps. You want to start by selecting a weight that you believe you could do ~10 reps of. Rest for a good period (3-5 minutes) then increase the weight to where you believe you could safely do ~6 repetitions. Rest, then shoot for ~3 repetitions. Rest. Finally, start adding weight until you achieve your "1 rep max". Your 1 rep max should be achieved within ~3-4 additional rounds. If you way underestimated your abilities and need more sets, do that on a different day. You don't want to perform loads of 1 rep max tests because then may be increasing injury risk.
Beatrice Colli in yesterday video on EpicTv does tre rep with 115Kg and in the vdeo she say he started two years ago
3:05 smaller range of motion doesnt make it inherently safer, if anything bigger ROM forces people to use less weights and display more control, just like how a full squat forces you to squat 225 properly instead of quarter reps with 405.
Exactly. In climbing you need strength in all ranges of motion
Hey loved the video! Any plans on doing a video dedicated to supplementation(i.e. Creatine)? Would love to hear your perspectives!
That's definitely on the list! So stayed tuned :)
Thank you, great content!! Du you use a teleprompter?
Hi Hooper, I am binging your videos as I just discovered your content. I really appreciate your scientific analysis on different aspects of climbing, especially your consideration of the available literature in combination with real world experience.
I know this video is older, but if you do see this comment and have the time to respond I would love to hear your thoughts on one legged deadlifts versus RDLs. Do you think there is any additional benefit or detraction from performing one-legged deadlifts?
Great video! Once the gm opens up agaij I'm gonna be right in these!
A question for you though: When people talk about finger strength and training it, I always assumed the goal was thickening of the tendons, but when I searched around all I could find was stuff about trying to reduce the thickness. If thickness isn't the factor controlling finger strength, what is? And is there an science around the most effective way to increase it?
Great, but I would not limit the range of motion, rather I would look to progressively increase it (maybe even do deficits). Climbing is about being strong in many positions, not just very limited range of motion.
While being widely available in gyms in the US I guess, bars and weights are not so common in Europe's gyms (or at home...). We need to dig deeper to find a ring / TRX alternative ;-) !
Ahh good to know! Thank you for sharing.
MORE!!
Double overhand is kinda lame when you get to higher weights, especially so if you have smaller hands/fingers. If I had to double overhand then I could never lift enough to push my posterior chain strength, grip will get plenty of other training.
Are you familiar with Foundation Training?
I got into it years ago and "The founder" seems like a great warm-up as well, in that you are engaging more of the upper body...
Maybe this could help save some time?
Thoughts?
I love this idea and seeing a focus on the posterior chain. Thanks!
I think going heavy enough to do sets of 2-3 is too aggressive for someone new to deadlifting. Sure once they have been deadlifting for say 6 months or so and have learned the motion well and have a bit of work capacity you can increase the intensity. I think for beginners they are way better off in the 5-8 rep range to really learn the form better and so the intensity is lower as they learn how to use their body. Not a big deal either way though. Awesome video! Tons of amazing information.
That is a fair point! I would advise a little lower than that (and would be more agreeable to the 4-6 range in some cases) with the small counter argument of fatigue can also play a role in changing form and by the 8th rep at a heavier weight could cause compensations. But that just goes back to one of the most important aspects: not increasing weight too quickly :) Thanks for the great comment!
@@HoopersBeta do you have some idea for a benchmark what an average intermediate climber should be able to deadlift (in body weight percentage)?
Love your videos! I'm a physio student and want to focus on sports physiotherapy (especially climbing) later on!
I have one question about heel hooking... yes, it's mostly hamstrings that do the work, but aren't adductors also big players? I'm saying it because after a session where I've had to heelhook a lot, I find myself with sore adductors the next day. Do you have any thougth on this? Also, does one actually want to train adductors when yuo want them to be nice and stretched out for hip flexibility?
Thanks :)
I consider the deadlift a core exercise for climbing. By core I don't mean abs, but the ability to transfer force from the feet through the hips and shoulders and out to the hands.
Same,
Absolutely! It's amazing to feel the connection between all of the body parts and how integral the core is to maintaining that tension.
I love to deadlift along with my climbing but I do Trap Bar Deadlift to reduce the back strain a small amount. Any thoughts on Trap Bar Deadlift?
Way better for a climber. Professional football player trainers even advise against straight bar deadlifts. They are also getting paid millions of dollars so I’m sure they’re any to protect their investments.
Another great form if you have the equipment available!
quality channel!
The link to the show notes is going to the wrong link.
Corrected! Thank you and apologies. That is my mistake :) - Jason
@@HoopersBeta Glad I could help. Thanks for the great content.
I heart this so much
When do you increase Weight?
What's your reasoning on shorter range of motion being safer? Wouldn't you be better developing strength through the full rom?
Yes, do full rom or progressively increase it. Partials only if you have pain or flexibility issues that prevent full rom. Climbing is about being strong in all ranges of motion.
Im no expert in the topic but if you want to focus on the legs and back would't it be better to use straps? Otherwise if you just use a double overhand grip it will become the limiting factor. Also, since the intent is to build stregth why not use a variation more focused on the concentric, such as the stiffed-legged deadlift?
We want to work on it all :) That includes our grip strength. Especially since this is for climbers, it is great to incorporate strength of the hands/forearms while engaging the posterior chain to really teach that connection from the fingers all the way to the foot!
@@HoopersBeta a question on ROM, would you recommend going further down if you hace the mobility to do so without losing spine or shoulder posicition?
I use straps, because there is no point in fatiguing your forearms with junk volume. Use the forearm strength in climbing.
@@Mylada it's not junk mileage lol. It's going to make your grip strength stronger regardless as long as you recover properly.
@@gezzapk If your grip fails before your legs, are you really training your legs efficiently? If you could prevent that while also saving grip for climbing specific training, wouldnt that be smarter?
12 sets of deadlift especially at 95% is a lot. You may feel under recovered so start out at a lower volume like the set he described but just the first four sets.
why dont just do one leg deadlifts? they also improve stability because they are a unilateral movement. So they are superior to Romanian Deadlifts. Also there is just the need for dumbbells/kettlebells or maybe even resistance bands. Usually climbing gyms (at least in my experience) rarely possess (olympic) barbells. And even if they do, it's even rarer that they can provide enough weight plates to really train RDL.
Great video! Is the 1rm including your body weight?
Thanks! 1rm does not include body weight, just the weight of the bar + any additional weight on it
@@HoopersBeta Excellent! Thank you so much!
These are the people that have figured out they should be deadlifting. Gymnasts, pitchers, climbers, golfers, linebackers, ballerinas, swimmers, humans, this is a partial list. Deadlifting is also the best way to learn belly breathing. That and singing.
I hate deadlifts so much. But RDL’s are actually something I like. Lots of grip strength endurance building
I just sent my first V9 after doing some light deadlifts for less than a month. I think it helped with coordination and awareness of my lower body/core while climbing. Too bad y'all just gave away my secret!!!
Now all your friends are going to immediately catch up with you ;) Haha that's awesome though! Congrats on the V9 AND on the new coordination and awareness :)
Why just pull some ridiculous amount of weight off the ground and drop it aggressively acting all cool?
Does that question not answer itself?
Excellent!!
My climbing is reasonably good, but I can't grow a fine beard. Thanks - for the Testo Tip! :D
“[..] all thanks to your hamstring!” 😅
Ok, ill deadlift to meet Alex Honald
Same! Great motivation ;)
Now I know why my heel hook felt like a decoration most of the time. Time to deadlifting.
Yeah definitely need some strength in the hamstrings to use heel hooks effectively!
Where'd "like and subscribe for more super sweet veedeeo" go?
I am a bit sceptical about the heel hook strength gained from deadlifting. The deadlift is all hip extension with the hamstrings, whereas heel hooking is all knee flexion of the hamstrings. You might get an increase in general muscle mass in the hamstrings from deadlifting, and obviously more muscle=more strength, but to get greater, more specific heel hooking strength, would it be better to hop onto a hamstring curl machine? Anecdotally, I can conventional deadlift 2.3 x bodyweight and never include knee extension hamstring exercises in my routine as they aren't relevant to the deadlift, and my heel hooking feels very weak during climbs, especially when done high or at odd angles.
I'm also a bit sceptical about the recommendation of the double overhand grip, instead of hook-grip or straps. The double overhand hampers the execution of the deadlift beyond certain weights, as your posterior chain easily exceeds what your hands can grip double overhand, making it unsuitable long term if you want to load up your posterior chain. Even if the weights used by climbers are light, would you really want to hamper the recovery of your grip by doing deadlifts on your off day, instead of using straps and focusing on the posterior chain benefits of the lift, while resting your grip for actual climbing? Of course, if you are a beginner doing RDLS with less than half your bodyweight, then this grip concern doesn't come into play, but more advanced trainees should move away from the double overhand grip
Finally, I think the RDL form shown in this video is wrong, there is no reason to stop at the knees on an RDL, provided your hamstrings are flexible enough to go lower. You get more hamstring activation the more your hamstrings stretch, aka during the ROM below the knee, and that top range of motion above the knees is done mostly by the glutes. Lowering the RDL as far as your hamstring ROM allows also adds the extra benefit of increasing hamstring flexibility long term, which is very helpful for climbers.
If you see this and feel like replying, please comment especially on the hamstring curl vs deadlift comparison, as I have been wondering if I should add heavy hamstring curls to my gym routine to help with heel hooks!
I bet your heel hooking problems are due to lacking flexibility, not strength. I deadlifted 200kg st 83kg bw and my hooking abilities improved quickly as I gained more and more flexibility. Never had any problems with strength and havent trained my legs for 3 years. Can still dl 170kg tho...
yes to all of those questions T_T
I’ve argued this for a decade…
Not watching this video will negatively impact your brain gains
Haha 😅 👍
What??? Something which is helpful in other sports can be also helpful for climbing???? Crazy...
In many ways climbing is such a great workout, but instead of then also targeting what is not trained prejudices kick in... Doesn't matter what sport or what education most have, there is always the opportunity to make the other atleath bad instead of learning from them. Humans are so slow in learning sadly...
wrong shoes bro.
hahahha V-Shrd guy
just in case, 100 lbs = 45 kg
Nice video! But your technique can improve!
nah deadlift still trash , romanian deadlift tho worth doing with proper form and caution
Kettlebell swings > deadlifts
Deadlifts are important. Only wimps say it isn't.
That makes me an ex-wimp then right? Haha
@@HoopersBeta yeh, it does. Soon you will be stronk.
As a PhD in exercise physiology and CSCS teaching weight training at a University, I respectfully disagree. I competed in the powerlifting (USAPL) and the deadlift for years before I found climbing. The grip strengths opposition of thumb and fingers doesn't translate to climbing well. The posterior chain (hamstring, glute, low back) are some of the least used muscles in climbing and require more endurance to consistently keep your hips near the wall rather than max strength capabilities of a deadlift. Entertaining information, but I didn't see any real science.
The fact that you’re a climber and think the posterior chain are some of the least used muscles in climbing is mind boggling unless you literally just started climbing. Why do you think pros like Kyra Condie and Brooke Raboutou deadlift?
Considering hamstring strains and tears are some of the most common injuries in climbing, you might want to reconsider your argument.
Or, if you prefer, try this instead: Climb literally any route on an overhang without using your posterior chain. (Spoiler: you can, because then you’d be campusing not climbing.)
@@EmileModesitt I'm honestly just trying to progress the field. If you are just climbing overhangs and heel hooking a ton there is some use but that's not most climbers. There is no evidence the deadlift will protect the hamstring which is one of the most injured muscles in any athlete due to its high eccentric stress.
The positions of the deadlift fails to mimic any climbing movements (principle of specificity) and is best used for max strength, which isn't practical for body weight climbing. A front loaded squat would be more specific to mobility and stress the more highly used quadriceps.
No professional research has highlighted the importance of the hamstring and the deadlift is an even bigger stretch. Check out (Physiology of Rock Climbing, Watts, 2004) and (The Physiology of Rock Climbing Giles, 2006). I'm open to change my mind, but anecdotal support with no physiology/biomechanics basis is just your opinion. Send me some primary research supporting your deadlift and I'll be happy to read it.
I’m not interested in an academic debate on anatomy with you; that’s not my field anyways. I’m just here to tell you’re not “progressing” anything by telling people the posterior chain isn’t really used in climbing. You don’t need a research article to tell you this is inaccurate. If you want proof, refer the challenge in my previous comment of climbing on an overhang without using your posterior chain. I’ll even make it easy on you: you don’t have to heel hook either. Send me a video of you climbing V5 or above on a 30+ degree overhang without using your posterior chain and you’ll have changed the sport of climbing forever with the new amazing technique you’ve somehow developed. We’ll feature it on this channel, Reddit will go crazy, and you’ll become an international sensation. Alternatively, if you can’t, you might consider getting a little more climbing experience or talking to other climbers before making such bold claims about climbing technique.