The sledgehammer toon had me cracking up . Yet another great video man. You save me a ton of labor when it comes to working on my 3 watercooled VW's. Thanks.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video. I use the tensioner tool (from ebay) to press the tensioner down but the chain remained tight with no room for play. Would you know what I am doing wrong?
Carefully rotate the intake camshaft (with a pair of vice grips) counterclockwise... the slack is on the underside of the tensioner. By rotating the camshaft (slightly), the slack will come up to the top. If you are replacing the tensioner, you will need to remove the intake camshaft. If you are only replacing the tensioner gasket set, you can leave the intake camshaft in place.
Watched this video a few times before attempting it and ran into this same problem. Couldn't work out why the chain wouldn't slacken, now I'll give this a try 👍
I followed the procedures, but got hung up on the right rear corner of the valve cover closest to the driver. There is a hose and metal tube blocking the corner, so that it can't be lifted off the stud. Any suggestions?
Thats some air you have in the shop lmao What are your thoughts on applying rtv on the half moon seal and tensioner gasket? How likely is the pickup screen you mention at 18:20 to clog up on a 2.4(same as 2.8) V6?
RTV around the complete moon? The moon has ridges just like the valve cover gasket and the spark plug well gasket. Those ridges serve a purpose. When RTV is applied, it covers those ridges and creates a single smooth surface which oil can more easily get across (when gaps develop due to gasket shrinkage & loose nuts). I would only put RTV at the corners / places that are mentioned in the service info. I don't use RTV on the chain tensioner gasket... I use "Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket" on the area mentioned in the service manual.
I can follow this to change the chain tensioner as well yes? Instead of picking to get the gasket for it out I could just remove it and replace gasket when new one goes in? Thanks!
I don't know. I always set to TDC. I guess it can be done at any position, as long as the cam gear teeth & chain links are marked... in case the chain or one of the cams move, then you just match up the marks again.
Super helpful video! Just want to know For top dead centre is there marks on the actual cam gear itself that line up with the arrows? I can't seem to find a mark on my block for the crankshaft pulley mark to line up
The cam gear has a notch that lines up with a mark on the valve cover. If you can't see the notch in the crank pulley, look for the tdc mark at the transmission. Turn the engine via the crankshaft pulley bolt (19mm twelve point) until the cam gear notch lines up with the notch in the valve cover (12 o'clock position)... then, look for the crank tdc mark. A service manual has all of this information and can save a lot of time & frustration.
@@EXOVCDS thank you Thomas! Found the mark on the crank pulley! But the TDC mark on the cam pulley Isn't lining up with the TDC mark on the valve cover. Or am i suppose to just keep turning it till it eventually lines up?
@@Gangstarappa691 The cam will only line up every 2 crank rotations. That's why I said turn the engine until the cam is lined up (at which point the crank should be close as well. Once you have things set, send pictures to me so I can verify.
@@EXOVCDS ahhh okk i see where i made the mistake, i thought the semi circle indent on the shroud around the crank pulley was a tdc mark, but from whats ive heard, lots of these cars dont have tdc mark to line up with on the block/ metal shroud, its just on the crank pulley. I think i have it at TDC now though, i will send pics
Hey man i love your videos they always help i got a 03 1.8t awp gti did my timing belt/water pump and got code p1340 cam sensor/engine speed incorect correlation and was wondering if the cam chain tensionner could be the problem engine speed on vcds is same as speedometer and changed the cam sensor for oem one im lost now
Set the camshaft to TDC and post a video showing me the camshaft TDC & crankshaft TDC (at the flywheel). If the code wasn't there before, then cam & crank timing is not correct now.
Okay Thomas...that job was a little more than easy peasy, but always nice work. That tool that you used on the chain. I'm guessing that it slid underneath the chain to raise it up as it was hard to see. Oh, your head lighting really makes the shots look really good...
The tool pushes the upper piston down and pulls the bottom one up... intake camshaft is retarded / advanced by stretching or shortening the chain distance at the top & bottom. Here's a picture of a collapsed tensioner with the tool. images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41yfPuDMMWL._SX355_.jpg
Hey Thomas I was curious as to turning the Engine TDC and if it would make it easier while putting tension on the tensioner or if I could just go ahead an attack as is without turning it TDC? I have been afraid of possibly messing up my timing from not following that step, your thoughts? Also what would be a way not getting one of those pins to shoot out? Lol
You will want to turn the engine to TDC... that way you can see the TDC marks at both camshafts (at the tensioner end), which will help you determine if cam to cam timing is correct and will make it easier to count the links between the cams... to confirm cam timing. Work slow... anticipate the unexpected, so that it will feel like a breeze when things go smoothly.
@@limagalvao6972 I used the pliers to move the camshaft (as you can see in the video). Moving the camshaft moves the chain... so that I can lift the chain higher. Timing does not change because the camshaft gear teeth are still in the chain. If the gear teeth slip in the chain, then yes.. timing moves.
Not enough room... that's why at the beginning of the video I mentioned that things can be done differently. Removing the intake camshaft can provide more room... both cams need to be removed to change the chain.... all depends on how much time one has and what needs to be done.
the leak is on the rear corner on an aum engine just near the half moon and i did not apply any sealant.what do u suggest that i stop the leak because i replaced this gasket 2 months.
Love the vids . I have a mk4 golf gls 1.8t 4door. the steering shaft coming into the car from the rack has begun to move up and down and making a clunk noise. Is this okay to drive for a little till I get a new steering rack? also is this normal?
First make sure that the yoke clamp is tight (which you probably already did). As long as there is no binding (tight spots or loose spots) while turning the steering wheel and no fluid is leaking from the shaft... it should be ok to drive (for how long, I don't know).
There's one on both sides of the tensioner. One is integrated into the valve cover gasket, the other has to go under the chain tensioner gasket. None on the timing belt side.
Thomas, does the cylinder/solenoid part of the cam chain tensioner have oil inside it? I've noticed traces of oil on the 2 -pin electrical connector part of the tensioner on my car - and cant seem to identify the cause of the leak - whether it is a gasket or the tensioner itself. hope you can help
wizkid01 The solenoid pushes against a plunger that controls oil flow through the tensioner. Over time, oil makes its way through the solenoid and out of the connector. Minor oil is not an issue... if it leaks quite a bit, it can make a mess and affect tensioner operation (speculation on my part, have never seen one that bad).
Yes it does seem quite bad, a few drops of oil appearing on the connector each day. It is new and had it on since oct last year. what would my options be? I am gona try and claim on warranty. but is it advisable to remove the solenoid because I was thinking swapping it to the solenoid from the old unit. Thanks
Once you remove the solenoid, warranty is void... or that's the excuse they will use to not warranty it. The solenoid can be removed and I believe there is a small o-ring between the solenoid & the tensioner. The o-ring seals oil from leaking out between the tensioner & solenoid. The oil is going through the solenoid where the push rod is traveling... should definitely qualify for warranty in my mind. It's a hassle having to claim warranty, remove the tensioner and then wait for & install the new one. If you still have your old one, that might be the quickest way to go, without having to remove the whole tensioner.
Thomas EXOVCDS I just think to myself all that hassle of removing the tensioner for a new one.. Was there really any point? Because the old unit worked fine. When it was removed there was very minimal wear on the plastic chain guides.. I only did it because apparently there is a replacement interval of apparently every 100k miles.. I know these engines are getting on a bit now with age but how true is this about its replacement after 100k miles or so, I suppose its better to be safe than sorry..
wizkid01 Yes, it's better to be safe than sorry... but the sorry part is that you can not rely on the new parts as much as the original parts. Fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, plastic coolant flanges, chain tensioners, timing belt tensioners etc. all seem to not last as long as the original parts. =(
Thomas please help me i changed a valve cover gasket and still getting oil leak.what must i apply to help this oil leak on the valve cover issue? thanks in advance.
I have a Audi 2000 1.8t ,looks totally diff . My oil leak is coming from the passenger side ,pretty bad. I seen it could be the cam chain tensioner gasket . I recently replaced that tensioner when I DID THE CAM BELT, were is this gasket?
Valve cover gasket and chain tensioner gasket for the Audi 1.8T is the same as for the VW 1.8T... removal / replacement is similar in both cases. Not sure what you mean when you said "where is this gasket?". The gasket is under the tensioner, along with the 1/2 moon seal. www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/valve-cover-gasket-and-chain-tensioner-seal-kit/058198025a~kt/ c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/452231_x800.jpg As with any oil leak... follow the leak to its source. If it's not coming from the valve cover or chain tensioner gasket, look for turbo oil feed & return line issues. Head gasket or oil pan issues.
I am on to looking at the turbo and others for the leak .That is what I meant about the tensioner , I just don't remember seeing this gasket when I did the timing belt/ tensioner pulley and tensioner. No chain ,Its belt and the motor timing and belts are on the front of the motor, witch is facing the front bumper In order to access that tensioner ,ON A 2000 Audi I have to remove the front clip and swing the radiator out of the way. I just need more specifics on that model car before I do that again ,that's all. My leak is passenger side then under the turbo side, I'll look into the oil feed and return lines ,thank you.
Yes, the Audi A4 is a pain due to it being in the back by the firewall (info is for others)... the gain is raised or lowered by the tensioner... which advances or retards the intake camshaft.
@@BS-ge4ne yes you use silicone on the inside edge and very sparingly on the gasket. There is an oil passage hole in that gasket and it is easy to get some silicone to cover it. That then limits the oil to go to the tensioner and can make it noisy and possibly fail
Thomas EXOVCDS ok thanks and on a different note, when replacing the turbo, is it necessary to drain the oil before removing the old turbo and then adding fresh oil after the install?
Thomas EXOVCDS ah man I have to replace the oil feed line as well 🤦🏻♂️ can you recommend the correct one for me . 2000Vw beetle 1.8t stock k03 to a ko4
@@whatjoshydoestv6741 it's a good idea to replace it, unless you know it's in good shape (no flow restrictions). Contact these guys to get info on what you need. www.ecstuning.com/
EXOVCDS how do you get the Tensioner out? i need to replace mine on my 1.8T but cant find any videos of them pulling the Tensioner out, only changing gaskets
You have to lift the intake camshaft (remove the bearing caps on the intake and the one on the front that covers intake & exhaust). Then you can lift the tensioner and remove from the chain.
Hey Thomas , im going to change It in my 1.8T 2000 A4 AWT engine Code , change the tensioner gasket kit And VC , i bought the 3366 tool from eBay , i Hope everything go well And smooth , i have plenty space to work removing the ventilation oil hose so i think the job looks quite easy , i Will Mark chain to make sure position.
Ok, let me know how it goes / went. If you have a high mileage engine... it's a good idea to change the chain as well (transfer the marks over to the new chain). In order to remove the chain, you have to remove / lift the exhaust camshaft as well.
@@EXOVCDS , 174.000 km around 109k miles , i ve seen when you compress the tensioner then the engine run bad for a moment until oil gets into the tensioner again ? It is true ?
Yes... also has to do with the fact that the hydraulic lifters expand and keep the valves open. That is why you do not want to start the engine for 30min after camshafts are installed. To allow the lifters to collapse... otherwise valves could touch the pistons when the engine is started.
@@EXOVCDS ok , i wont start the car until 12 or 24 hours later , i Will use RTV in VC corners so this is one of the reasons, but i wont remove camshafts , just have enough room to work
My mistake... sorry. I thought you were changing the tensioner. If you are only collapsing the tensioner so that you can change the gasket & seal, you don't have to worry about the hydraulic lifters. When changing the tensioner, the intake camshaft has to be lifted... that's when you have to worry about the lifters. Sorry about the confusion.
Hey Thomas, I have been following for a long time, thank you! When reinstalling the valve cover gasket, tensioner gasket and half moon do you ever use silicone, gasket maker or my thought, hondabond/yamahabond? I am also doing the front camshaft seals......your videos have helped me greatly. I am currently doing, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, pcv system, valve cover gasket, cam tensioner gasket and coolant flange
Service manual shows where to apply sealant. I don't use sealant around the cam seals (some people do, some oil the outer seal area or apply silicone). If it is a PTFE seal, the sealing lip has to stay dry). I lube the lip of the rubber seals with oil, that's it.
You can download as many service manuals that you need for as many VW's that you want for $35 (24hr subscription). The pdf files do not expire. I have downloaded 8GB of manuals in that 24hr time frame.
I see you had a little bit to f an issue removing the tensioner gasket!! I know why!! It is as because MC HAMMER was dancing on it!!!! LOL! Cheers buddy 🍻
Thanks mate, have a pretty good idea of where my oil leak is. I hope its the valve cover gasket as i don't wanna do that much work of replacing cam seals and chain tensioner gaskets lol. I haven't opened it up yet but thanks to you, i have a heads up
@Thomas XOVCDS Hey I just had a shop change out my VC gasket and all others ...spark well CCT half moon... They called me and said my CCT was not right and needed to be changed.. That the tensioner screw was stripped and the special tool broke... Said they can just change VC and Spark well gaskets unless I want the replace CCT.. I said yes I want all gaskets and CCT replaced... I asked if they were TDC before trying to compress CCT and they said it didn't need to be.. ?? I said I don't want my cams to jump timing and they say we know what we are doing... I get a call next day to come pick up car ..drove from shop to my house 5 miles... Shut off car ..from my house to store 2 miles shut off car.. From the store home 2 miles and as soon as I pull into my development car sounds like a diesel and loss of power... Got home shut her down... They how car back to shop because I said I won't risk driving it there ... Called me following day and said the took of my VC plugged up my coil packs.. Started car and was loud like diesel ... They said they watched to CCT lock up .. And car shut off.. No compression.. I had code p0011 before they picked car back up with trailer... So I know it jumped timing I just don't know how or why.. They said they had it timed properly when I picked up car ...I don't know what they did... I never had codes or problems with car other then oil leak a VC.. Car ran great prior My car is a 2003 vw jetta 1.8t engine code is awp..... The cylinder head on my car is stamped ATC...( I think out of an Audi TT 180hp) could it be an issue like my car has VVT but previous owner had a Non VVT head installed and set the ECU for conversion ... And they put the wrong part in or they just installed the CCT wrong Everything was working prior no marks on inside of my VC ..no codes ..no poor idle... I just brought it in to change gaskets cause I got tired of oil spots in my driveway.. Maybe they didn't set it to TDC prior to trying to compress CCT and stripped and broke there tool forcing me to change CCT and they just never times it right??? It drove fine for 9 miles car turned on and off 3 times before failure I'm in desperate need of advice thank you for taking the time to read this
I'm picking up ideas on tools I need to make things go smoother from you. Once my wife finds out I'm spending money because of your videos I'll be banned! lol
There you go. But then she'd figure out my tools last longer than her flowers. Actually she's really good about my tool addiction. After all, they do pay for them self's.
Fun... is hearing something go "snap" or "ting" or fly past your face while compressing the tensioner. "It wasn't broken when I dropped it off"! Yeah... it's also 10+ years old and I had to move it!
@@EXOVCDS Question sir. I am replacing a chain tensioner on a 1.8 turbo. On the intake cam, the cap and cam lobe are off. Count 16 links and mark at the cam lobe to insure correct timing?
@@JimmyPtheman click the fkh161 link in the description. Click "tool request" to send me pictures of what you see. I will reply again tomorrow with service info if need it.
Best automotive repair channel on Yt
You are too kind, thank you... but I know many other channels that are better!
The sledgehammer toon had me cracking up . Yet another great video man. You save me a ton of labor when it comes to working on my 3 watercooled VW's. Thanks.
Thank you for watching... nice to hear that my videos have been of help!
Only a professional can get those one time use clamps off that fast. We applaud you
Haha... if you look carefully, the video was sped up. =)
Thanks for the video! Just replaced my valve cover gaskets and chain tensioner gasket. No more oil leak and car runs very good.
Thank you for watching! Good to hear all went well!
Hello, thank you for the helpful video. I use the tensioner tool (from ebay) to press the tensioner down but the chain remained tight with no room for play. Would you know what I am doing wrong?
Carefully rotate the intake camshaft (with a pair of vice grips) counterclockwise... the slack is on the underside of the tensioner. By rotating the camshaft (slightly), the slack will come up to the top. If you are replacing the tensioner, you will need to remove the intake camshaft. If you are only replacing the tensioner gasket set, you can leave the intake camshaft in place.
Watched this video a few times before attempting it and ran into this same problem. Couldn't work out why the chain wouldn't slacken, now I'll give this a try 👍
I followed the procedures, but got hung up on the right rear corner of the valve cover closest to the driver. There is a hose and metal tube blocking the corner, so that it can't be lifted off the stud. Any suggestions?
Bend the tube slightly... without kinking it.
Thank you so much.
Thats some air you have in the shop lmao
What are your thoughts on applying rtv on the half moon seal and tensioner gasket?
How likely is the pickup screen you mention at 18:20 to clog up on a 2.4(same as 2.8) V6?
RTV around the complete moon? The moon has ridges just like the valve cover gasket and the spark plug well gasket. Those ridges serve a purpose. When RTV is applied, it covers those ridges and creates a single smooth surface which oil can more easily get across (when gaps develop due to gasket shrinkage & loose nuts). I would only put RTV at the corners / places that are mentioned in the service info. I don't use RTV on the chain tensioner gasket... I use "Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket" on the area mentioned in the service manual.
I can follow this to change the chain tensioner as well yes? Instead of picking to get the gasket for it out I could just remove it and replace gasket when new one goes in? Thanks!
Yes, you can follow this, but you will have to remove the intake camshaft if you want to replace the tensioner.
What happens if you don't set it @TDC???
I don't know. I always set to TDC. I guess it can be done at any position, as long as the cam gear teeth & chain links are marked... in case the chain or one of the cams move, then you just match up the marks again.
Super helpful video! Just want to know For top dead centre is there marks on the actual cam gear itself that line up with the arrows? I can't seem to find a mark on my block for the crankshaft pulley mark to line up
The cam gear has a notch that lines up with a mark on the valve cover. If you can't see the notch in the crank pulley, look for the tdc mark at the transmission. Turn the engine via the crankshaft pulley bolt (19mm twelve point) until the cam gear notch lines up with the notch in the valve cover (12 o'clock position)... then, look for the crank tdc mark. A service manual has all of this information and can save a lot of time & frustration.
@@EXOVCDS thank you Thomas! Found the mark on the crank pulley! But the TDC mark on the cam pulley Isn't lining up with the TDC mark on the valve cover. Or am i suppose to just keep turning it till it eventually lines up?
@@Gangstarappa691 The cam will only line up every 2 crank rotations. That's why I said turn the engine until the cam is lined up (at which point the crank should be close as well. Once you have things set, send pictures to me so I can verify.
@@EXOVCDS ahhh okk i see where i made the mistake, i thought the semi circle indent on the shroud around the crank pulley was a tdc mark, but from whats ive heard, lots of these cars dont have tdc mark to line up with on the block/ metal shroud, its just on the crank pulley. I think i have it at TDC now though, i will send pics
Lol im just putting the pictures as my display pictures
Hey quick question I’m doing this job tomorrow on a 05 gti 1.8t AWP is having to put the engine on tdc 1 a must or is it a way to get around it?
Setting to tdc makes things easier because you can see right away if things are not lined up... you don't have to set it to tdc.
Hey bossman, how often should you change the cam shaft chain and tensioner?
No set time frame. I would do the chain when the tensioner rails get quite grooved or you have a cam timing code that won't go away.
@@EXOVCDS ok cool! I will check it out when I do the valve cover gasket. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey man i love your videos they always help i got a 03 1.8t awp gti did my timing belt/water pump and got code p1340 cam sensor/engine speed incorect correlation and was wondering if the cam chain tensionner could be the problem engine speed on vcds is same as speedometer and changed the cam sensor for oem one im lost now
Set the camshaft to TDC and post a video showing me the camshaft TDC & crankshaft TDC (at the flywheel). If the code wasn't there before, then cam & crank timing is not correct now.
@@EXOVCDS oh i didnt think about looking at flywheel i only looked at crankshaft pulley mark ill look at it thanks for your help you are the best
Flywheel TDC mark is more accurate than mark on pulley.
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Okay Thomas...that job was a little more than easy peasy, but always nice work. That tool that you used on the chain. I'm guessing that it slid underneath the chain to raise it up as it was hard to see. Oh, your head lighting really makes the shots look really good...
The tool pushes the upper piston down and pulls the bottom one up... intake camshaft is retarded / advanced by stretching or shortening the chain distance at the top & bottom. Here's a picture of a collapsed tensioner with the tool. images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41yfPuDMMWL._SX355_.jpg
Thanks for the link with the picture. Makes sense now how the tool works...
Hey Thomas I was curious as to turning the Engine TDC and if it would make it easier while putting tension on the tensioner or if I could just go ahead an attack as is without turning it TDC? I have been afraid of possibly messing up my timing from not following that step, your thoughts? Also what would be a way not getting one of those pins to shoot out? Lol
You will want to turn the engine to TDC... that way you can see the TDC marks at both camshafts (at the tensioner end), which will help you determine if cam to cam timing is correct and will make it easier to count the links between the cams... to confirm cam timing. Work slow... anticipate the unexpected, so that it will feel like a breeze when things go smoothly.
18:11 Why do you have to secure it with pliers?
Listen to what I said at 18:29
If you still have questions, let me know.
Make sense? Vice grip may or may not be needed.
@@EXOVCDS I was wondering if it is connected with pliers so that the engine doesn't waste its timing?
@@limagalvao6972 I used the pliers to move the camshaft (as you can see in the video). Moving the camshaft moves the chain... so that I can lift the chain higher. Timing does not change because the camshaft gear teeth are still in the chain. If the gear teeth slip in the chain, then yes.. timing moves.
@@EXOVCDS thank you
This is for future reference due to I don't have this motor (yet). But why couldn't you slide the tensioner out?
Not enough room... that's why at the beginning of the video I mentioned that things can be done differently. Removing the intake camshaft can provide more room... both cams need to be removed to change the chain.... all depends on how much time one has and what needs to be done.
the leak is on the rear corner on an aum engine just near the half moon and i did not apply any sealant.what do u suggest that i stop the leak because i replaced this gasket 2 months.
Did the chain tensioner gasket & 1/2 moon also get replaced?
Love the vids . I have a mk4 golf gls 1.8t 4door. the steering shaft coming into the car from the rack has begun to move up and down and making a clunk noise. Is this okay to drive for a little till I get a new steering rack? also is this normal?
First make sure that the yoke clamp is tight (which you probably already did). As long as there is no binding (tight spots or loose spots) while turning the steering wheel and no fluid is leaking from the shaft... it should be ok to drive (for how long, I don't know).
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for responding. I appreciate it.
Hello Thomas . The dowel pins you mentioned . how many are they ?
For the chain tensioner? Two... the chain tensioner gasket is secured by them at either end.
@@EXOVCDS ok thanks . i will do this job next week
Is there a moon seal on the other side of the chain tensioner?
There's one on both sides of the tensioner. One is integrated into the valve cover gasket, the other has to go under the chain tensioner gasket. None on the timing belt side.
No sir and if i may ask where is the location of the half moon on a aum engine?year 2001 golf 1.8t gti.
Candy Pius At 15:50 you can see me loosen the chain tensioner. The 1/2 moon is index the gasket which is under the tensioner.
thank u i figured that...you doing a great job all the times.
thank u i figured that...you doing a great job all the times.
Thomas, does the cylinder/solenoid part of the cam chain tensioner have oil inside it? I've noticed traces of oil on the 2 -pin electrical connector part of the tensioner on my car - and cant seem to identify the cause of the leak - whether it is a gasket or the tensioner itself. hope you can help
wizkid01 The solenoid pushes against a plunger that controls oil flow through the tensioner. Over time, oil makes its way through the solenoid and out of the connector. Minor oil is not an issue... if it leaks quite a bit, it can make a mess and affect tensioner operation (speculation on my part, have never seen one that bad).
Yes it does seem quite bad, a few drops of oil appearing on the connector each day. It is new and had it on since oct last year. what would my options be? I am gona try and claim on warranty. but is it advisable to remove the solenoid because I was thinking swapping it to the solenoid from the old unit.
Thanks
Once you remove the solenoid, warranty is void... or that's the excuse they will use to not warranty it. The solenoid can be removed and I believe there is a small o-ring between the solenoid & the tensioner. The o-ring seals oil from leaking out between the tensioner & solenoid. The oil is going through the solenoid where the push rod is traveling... should definitely qualify for warranty in my mind. It's a hassle having to claim warranty, remove the tensioner and then wait for & install the new one. If you still have your old one, that might be the quickest way to go, without having to remove the whole tensioner.
Thomas EXOVCDS I just think to myself all that hassle of removing the tensioner for a new one.. Was there really any point? Because the old unit worked fine. When it was removed there was very minimal wear on the plastic chain guides.. I only did it because apparently there is a replacement interval of apparently every 100k miles.. I know these engines are getting on a bit now with age but how true is this about its replacement after 100k miles or so, I suppose its better to be safe than sorry..
wizkid01 Yes, it's better to be safe than sorry... but the sorry part is that you can not rely on the new parts as much as the original parts. Fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, plastic coolant flanges, chain tensioners, timing belt tensioners etc. all seem to not last as long as the original parts. =(
Thomas please help me i changed a valve cover gasket and still getting oil leak.what must i apply to help this oil leak on the valve cover issue? thanks in advance.
Where's the oil leaking? Did you apply sealant in that area?
I have a Audi 2000 1.8t ,looks totally diff . My oil leak is coming from the passenger side ,pretty bad. I seen it could be the cam chain tensioner gasket . I recently replaced that tensioner when I DID THE CAM BELT, were is this gasket?
The video is of a VW A4 (Golf Jetta).... that's why things look different.
I'll get back to you after work tonight.
I know ,just asking if you had any ideas about the Audi.
Valve cover gasket and chain tensioner gasket for the Audi 1.8T is the same as for the VW 1.8T... removal / replacement is similar in both cases. Not sure what you mean when you said "where is this gasket?". The gasket is under the tensioner, along with the 1/2 moon seal.
www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/valve-cover-gasket-and-chain-tensioner-seal-kit/058198025a~kt/
c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/452231_x800.jpg
As with any oil leak... follow the leak to its source. If it's not coming from the valve cover or chain tensioner gasket, look for turbo oil feed & return line issues. Head gasket or oil pan issues.
I am on to looking at the turbo and others for the leak .That is what I meant about the tensioner , I just don't remember seeing this gasket when I did the timing belt/ tensioner pulley and tensioner. No chain ,Its belt and the motor timing and belts are on the front of the motor, witch is facing the front bumper In order to access that tensioner ,ON A 2000 Audi I have to remove the front clip and swing the radiator out of the way. I just need more specifics on that model car before I do that again ,that's all. My leak is passenger side then under the turbo side, I'll look into the oil feed and return lines ,thank you.
Do you use nail polish to mark TDC ? You surely don t like to take additional stuff apart :D
BIC Wite-Out (for correcting mistakes on paper). Nail polish also works.
must be very difficult to do on the A4. By the way, what does the chain do if it already has a timing belt?
Yes, the Audi A4 is a pain due to it being in the back by the firewall (info is for others)... the gain is raised or lowered by the tensioner... which advances or retards the intake camshaft.
Why did you have to go TDC if you didn't remove the cams?
So in case that if something moves, it is easier to see if I am in time or not.
Did you use silicone on the half moon or to seal the gasket?
Rudi Le Goarant the service manual indicates where to apply sealant.
No harm in confirming?
@@BS-ge4ne yes you use silicone on the inside edge and very sparingly on the gasket. There is an oil passage hole in that gasket and it is easy to get some silicone to cover it. That then limits the oil to go to the tensioner and can make it noisy and possibly fail
Using break parts cleaner is ok? It won’t do anything bad for the engine?
Sorry, wrong reply to different post. Brake clean is fine to use.
Thomas EXOVCDS ok thanks and on a different note, when replacing the turbo, is it necessary to drain the oil before removing the old turbo and then adding fresh oil after the install?
@@whatjoshydoestv6741 you will want to use new oil and also replace the oil feed line to the turbo.
Thomas EXOVCDS ah man I have to replace the oil feed line as well 🤦🏻♂️ can you recommend the correct one for me . 2000Vw beetle 1.8t stock k03 to a ko4
@@whatjoshydoestv6741 it's a good idea to replace it, unless you know it's in good shape (no flow restrictions). Contact these guys to get info on what you need.
www.ecstuning.com/
EXOVCDS how do you get the Tensioner out? i need to replace mine on my 1.8T but cant find any videos of them pulling the Tensioner out, only changing gaskets
You have to lift the intake camshaft (remove the bearing caps on the intake and the one on the front that covers intake & exhaust). Then you can lift the tensioner and remove from the chain.
and thats 100% what i was worried about
@@LPKizzle Sounds worse than it is.
do i need to fully Remove the splash guards or just loosen them so i can wiggle the end loose?
@@LPKizzle Splash guard? The 2 plastic squares on top of the intake camshaft?
Hey Thomas , im going to change It in my 1.8T 2000 A4 AWT engine Code , change the tensioner gasket kit And VC , i bought the 3366 tool from eBay , i Hope everything go well And smooth , i have plenty space to work removing the ventilation oil hose so i think the job looks quite easy , i Will Mark chain to make sure position.
Ok, let me know how it goes / went.
If you have a high mileage engine... it's a good idea to change the chain as well (transfer the marks over to the new chain). In order to remove the chain, you have to remove / lift the exhaust camshaft as well.
@@EXOVCDS , 174.000 km around 109k miles , i ve seen when you compress the tensioner then the engine run bad for a moment until oil gets into the tensioner again ? It is true ?
Yes... also has to do with the fact that the hydraulic lifters expand and keep the valves open. That is why you do not want to start the engine for 30min after camshafts are installed. To allow the lifters to collapse... otherwise valves could touch the pistons when the engine is started.
@@EXOVCDS ok , i wont start the car until 12 or 24 hours later , i Will use RTV in VC corners so this is one of the reasons, but i wont remove camshafts , just have enough room to work
My mistake... sorry. I thought you were changing the tensioner. If you are only collapsing the tensioner so that you can change the gasket & seal, you don't have to worry about the hydraulic lifters. When changing the tensioner, the intake camshaft has to be lifted... that's when you have to worry about the lifters. Sorry about the confusion.
Wow DIY haha man that's a scary deal . All pumped up your into the weights big time.
Have to get ready for a Rugged Maniac course.... running it with my 15 year old nephew, can't let him beat me! LOL
Oops, didn't know you needed the special tool. Guess I'm driving my wifes car tomorrow 😆
www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/1.8t_chain_tensioner_tool/
@@EXOVCDS thanks!! We might have one at work, but if not I'll be ordering that one 👍
Hey Thomas, I have been following for a long time, thank you! When reinstalling the valve cover gasket, tensioner gasket and half moon do you ever use silicone, gasket maker or my thought, hondabond/yamahabond? I am also doing the front camshaft seals......your videos have helped me greatly. I am currently doing, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, pcv system, valve cover gasket, cam tensioner gasket and coolant flange
Service manual shows where to apply sealant. I don't use sealant around the cam seals (some people do, some oil the outer seal area or apply silicone). If it is a PTFE seal, the sealing lip has to stay dry). I lube the lip of the rubber seals with oil, that's it.
If only I had a manual! Haha I will add a tad to the corners
You can download as many service manuals that you need for as many VW's that you want for $35 (24hr subscription). The pdf files do not expire. I have downloaded 8GB of manuals in that 24hr time frame.
Sorry... from here: erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do
Lunch burrito 10.45% it must have been a good one 😷
Out of all those gasses... it's the one that lingers the longest!
I see you had a little bit to f an issue removing the tensioner gasket!! I know why!! It is as because MC HAMMER was dancing on it!!!! LOL! Cheers buddy 🍻
Good old MC Hammer!
Is it the same for 1.8 20v 92kw (non turbo?)
Yes, but things might look different... I have not seen a non turbo 1.8L
What year & engine production code? So I can look for service info.
Thomas EXOVCDS year 2001 engine code APG
Thomas EXOVCDS it's an a3 btw
Give me a few minutes.
fkh161.ca/Audi/A3/APG001.pdf
fkh161.ca/Audi/A3/APG002.pdf
haha love the explanation of AIR!
Thank you... I think I got it right. :)
I have no idea but I am going with it
I have the Snap On quick change bit cordless and I tell you that thing is a beast.
Thanks mate, have a pretty good idea of where my oil leak is. I hope its the valve cover gasket as i don't wanna do that much work of replacing cam seals and chain tensioner gaskets lol. I haven't opened it up yet but thanks to you, i have a heads up
Thank you for watching!
СУПЕР
У нас пол машины меняют пока находят или нет причину.
приезжай к нам покоя не будет от работы
I lost it at the jackhammer gif :D haha
Not responsible for spilled coffee! :)
@Thomas XOVCDS Hey I just had a shop change out my VC gasket and all others ...spark well CCT half moon... They called me and said my CCT was not right and needed to be changed.. That the tensioner screw was stripped and the special tool broke... Said they can just change VC and Spark well gaskets unless I want the replace CCT.. I said yes I want all gaskets and CCT replaced... I asked if they were TDC before trying to compress CCT and they said it didn't need to be.. ?? I said I don't want my cams to jump timing and they say we know what we are doing...
I get a call next day to come pick up car ..drove from shop to my house 5 miles... Shut off car ..from my house to store 2 miles shut off car.. From the store home 2 miles and as soon as I pull into my development car sounds like a diesel and loss of power... Got home shut her down... They how car back to shop because I said I won't risk driving it there ... Called me following day and said the took of my VC plugged up my coil packs.. Started car and was loud like diesel ... They said they watched to CCT lock up .. And car shut off.. No compression.. I had code p0011 before they picked car back up with trailer... So I know it jumped timing I just don't know how or why.. They said they had it timed properly when I picked up car ...I don't know what they did... I never had codes or problems with car other then oil leak a VC.. Car ran great prior
My car is a 2003 vw jetta 1.8t engine code is awp..... The cylinder head on my car is stamped ATC...( I think out of an Audi TT 180hp) could it be an issue like my car has VVT but previous owner had a Non VVT head installed and set the ECU for conversion ... And they put the wrong part in or they just installed the CCT wrong
Everything was working prior no marks on inside of my VC ..no codes ..no poor idle... I just brought it in to change gaskets cause I got tired of oil spots in my driveway.. Maybe they didn't set it to TDC prior to trying to compress CCT and stripped and broke there tool forcing me to change CCT and they just never times it right??? It drove fine for 9 miles car turned on and off 3 times before failure
I'm in desperate need of advice thank you for taking the time to read this
@Thomas XOVCDS
Maybe the tensioner oil screen got plugged up, causing oil starvation, making it sound like a diesel and then timing for the intake cam jumped.
HaHa! Lunch Burrito...funny. Back to video..
I was hoping a few people would spot that! :)
stuzman de
good job mate! Nice vid.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
I'm picking up ideas on tools I need to make things go smoother from you. Once my wife finds out I'm spending money because of your videos I'll be banned! lol
You have to mix things up... after every second tool you buy, you need to buy her some flowers! LOL
There you go. But then she'd figure out my tools last longer than her flowers. Actually she's really good about my tool addiction. After all, they do pay for them self's.
that would be fun without the special tool
Fun... is hearing something go "snap" or "ting" or fly past your face while compressing the tensioner. "It wasn't broken when I dropped it off"! Yeah... it's also 10+ years old and I had to move it!
some people watch nature documentaries to fall asleep to......i watch TE
Sleep well!
Nice Green golf look like Rabbit
Magnifico.
Thank you for watching!
cool hammerjack
Busy hard working little guy!
That is not a job I'd look forward to on flat-rate!
If it's sold right... can have 3.6hrs (labor to replace the tensioner) to do it. Not what we charged though.
Sold not old!
Boss tech
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Question sir. I am replacing a chain tensioner on a 1.8 turbo. On the intake cam, the cap and cam lobe are off. Count 16 links and mark at the cam lobe to insure correct timing?
@@JimmyPtheman click the fkh161 link in the description. Click "tool request" to send me pictures of what you see. I will reply again tomorrow with service info if need it.
@@EXOVCDS awesome, thanks