A $400 Dollar WML | Cloud Rein 3.0
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Yes I know, generally you can get it for $350, but you can also get a modlight for 275 on sale. so whatever.
It's a lotta money.
But is it worth it?
Today on the ass facts, the Cloud Rein 3.0
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“Buy what you need; be happy with what you have.” -No truer words spoken.
How do u consistently release videos on the exact products I’m already researching ARE YOU IN MY HEAD!?
im not in your head dude...
that being said, do not check under your computer. or behind the fridge. Those took awhile to install.
He's in your walls
He’s in all our heads. Is his channel even real?
“Buy what you need, be happy with what you have”, this comment needs to be heard and really sink in for a lot of people! I see so many freakin people chasing the next best greatest version of the widget, all the while not even using their version 1.0 widget to even 50% of its capabilities! It’s ridiculous to see the consumption and replacement of all these products for no other reason than there is a so-called improvement or update and most people won’t even be able to appreciate all the features of the previous 3 generations! Great information and video as always!
But I want it 😢
When you take your Gen 1 widget to a 2-day class, you see that SHTF conditions require that Gen 2 functionality. All of a sudden it's crystal clear that the only reason you ever thought Gen 1 was adequate was because you never ran it hard enough.
I just got home from such a course. And I now know why the cool kids carry the expensive kit.
Less time gear-obsessing and more time actual use in training would remedy that issue for most, but not all, of those people. Their participation is limited to obsessing over what's "latest" or "most innovative" or "most features" and they are easy prey for marketing lingo, and YT "influencers" who swoon over the latest widget's countless innovations. Hell, all they need to say is "this is innovative, game-changing, THE FUTURE!" and everyone's rushing to buy it. And buy another "latest and greatest" in a few months. Meantime, no rounds sent downrange, no training classes attended, no other in-use testing. Just fad-following, and online chatter about it. A grim life, or that's how it looks from here.
People forget that folks have won wars and conflicts with way less impressive gear. Training is the importance and many don't take theirs to the full potential
Actually 399 isn't bad considering all the other products end up costing over 400 once you add in the tape switch and tailcaps. I like that this is more powerful future thinking and comes with everything you need right out of the box.
Only $327 w/tax if you do the trade in program. Shipped a harbor freight freebie light for 1.74, damn good deal. Arisaka mount was $40, $370 total for a full package
@@youreright7534 Had no idea about this program. Going to jump on it now for sure
@@youreright7534what shipping did you use
You got 100 off for a harbor freight light? Which one did you send in?
@D. T cheapest I could, and a small padded envelope.
The main thing that set my REIN 1.0 and OWLs apart from other high-end lights was its yellow or warmer beam for me. This made for a lot easier time shooting during precipitation, especially snow which is important since most of my after dark shooting is in the winter, and it doesn't cause as much flash blinding so to speak inside the home. I found it much easier on my light sensitive eyes than my much weaker but colder (bluer) HL-Xs. Sadly my later REIN 1.0s and my 2.0 are much colder
The 3.0 is definitely a cooler temp color than my early production Rein 1.0. I prefer the warmer too because it shows true color and better detail.
@@weduhpeople8504 From using lights to ride MTB at night, there are advantages and disadvantages to warmer or cooler light. Warmer lights have truer color rendering for most people's eyes, but only in natural settings lacking manmade lighting. Manmade lighting that's powerful and cooler temperature will dominate your warmer light and render it useless. I've experienced this when riders behind me had more powerful lights of a bluer, colder tone, which left mine pointless while they were near enough behind me. I've also seen it with handhelds. Warmer tones don't cast as far for me, either. Or maybe from an engineer's POV, they take more energy to throw farther.
@@seanoneil277I think most candle holders tend to jump onto the blue light wagon because its specs say it "has more lumens". But only after first hand experience do more seasoned candle holders go for the warm light. Or at least perhaps the white light. This happens because humans function better with warmer light. It's just all around better. And in my opinion it is actually pleasant to look at. Blue light is more prone to cause headaches too.
I understand that when a man has a criminal at gun point, he may want that criminal to be less comfortable, given the blue light and stuff. But what if it's a foggy night, or a smoky room. And the criminal being held at gun point is very very pale white, and the guy making the arrest cannot see his other hand. And because he is using blue light which he chose because it has 300 more lumens than the warm light, but it don't cut thru smoke, fog, and it's bouncing off the super white guys head. Super white guy recognizes officers discombobulatiin, so he draws a gun from his left side. Pew, pew. The officer is shot and criminal escaped.
I never understood spending this much on lights until I started doing night shooting, since then I bought surefire, arisaka, rein 1.0 and a rein 3.0. The streamlight hlx is probably the best light you can buy for the money, I still have 3 of them, but it's night and day difference between those and the cloud at 130yds. Cloud blows the rest out of the water.
Nah
You should do a video for solid budget option and a buy once, cry once option for all the stuff. Lights, optics, lasers, etc.
I'll help you
Aimpoint RDS or Eotech
For LPVO vortex 1-6
Surefire 30 cal can
Light stream lights are great
Plates Hesco l210
Used plate carrier will do any barry compliant
For rifle best to build PSA lower BCM parts kit Upper high quality BCG 200 and up barrel I would recommend Criteron 13.9 surefire warcomp solow
Any mlok free float handguard
Kit beyond clothing when they have a sale for shooting top and pants
Hope that helps
@@IntellectualTerritory have you tried any of the primary arms lpvo's? Got one and I love it. Compared to my vortex it seems to be pretty on par.
@@luketimmer6108 primary arms vs vortex breaks down (mostly) like this.
SLX line>strike eagle (roughly the same price)
GLX line>viper PST (also roughly the same price)
PLX line
I got one, and I’ve used it primarily in a CQB environment. Just in first looks, dudes with SF 600 DF’s and Arisaka lights would point them at the wall, and when I kicked on the 3.0, you couldn’t even tell those other lights were on.
The spill was enough to give you good situational awareness and light up a room, and the hot spot was intense enough to control targets with white light in a force on force type scenario.
Additionally, the 3.0 excels when working around vehicles in the dark, particularly when the headlights are on, and maybe pointing at you. The candela and lumens of the 3.0 gives you enough horsepower to push through those photonic barriers and illuminate your target.
Overall, I’m very happy with my purchase, but I do agree with your stance. It’s probably not worth upgrading if you don’t need to, but if you need another light or you need the capability the 3.0 provides, this is the move.
If you are patient and look around you can find the Rein 3.0 kits for $299. I bought one yesterday for that price. 300 is a solid deal imo.
@@cannaventureseeds2909 I believe this was first published when they were still new on the market. Prices have come down, which only makes it more competitively priced. Honestly, best performance at the best price…. if you need a light, why look at anything else?
I get the flash light on a rifle being a total necessity, but for 400.00 it should emit some money back when you turn it on.
Or maybe a HJ.
Cheaper than others for a couple reasons:
1.) cloud constantly does a trade in program where you give them your existing rifle light for $100 off a cloud one (they will accept anything including a plastic light with tape for a handguard)
This will bring it back to the same price as others
2.) comes with a full sized dual function button tail cap and a mod button lite style pressure pad (on the current gen REIN 3.0s) which you’d have to buy a Unity GASCAP and Mod-button Lite to do on any other light which is way more expensive
3.) the light also comes with an mlok mount, battery/s, and a battery charger
So if you price out any other high performance high quality light setup you’ll find CD has the best power, durability, and value
4.) not really a cheapness thing but if you like any of the scout compatible tail caps you can find “Legacy Bodies” for the REIN 3.0 which accepts surefire compatible tail caps, all REIN mounts are surefire scout light mount compatible
I recently just found out why I like my rein 3.0 over anything else I have. Simply put, it cuts through fog, smoke ect... very well. Some other lights I have, I had to wait for the smoke to clear before I could see my target.
At a recent shoot with ~25 other shooters, my SF was useless at 75-100 yds. I borrowed a demo Rein 2.0 and it “lasered” right through the smoke and darkness. There was no comparison.
I currently have 5 reins right now and like them a lot. My theory is that the constant on button on the tape switch is/can also be used as your momentary, hence why it's so sensitive. Concept: HRT/SWAT team clearing suspect house. Turn light to constant via the switch, keep light off with pressure when you don't need it, release pressure when light is needed and needed immediately. Just another way to skin the cat. Could be wrong 🤷♂️
I was thinking the exact same thing as well.
I considered that, but I think it would make more sense to just use the momentary as the momentary, and not have your actual momentary flicker under usage.
I don’t use the momentary. I have my switch in reverse, with the click in the front. I prefer to when turning the light on, to stay on. As well to make a deliberate choice to turn it off and on.
I sold my phlv2 setup for $420 (modlite phlv2 + ds00 + modlite button) and bought a $312 rein 3.0. I bougut a better light all the way around and saved $100. I will say the tap switch does indeed SUCK! However a lot of CD users say that there is a breakdown period on the momentary switch, and it gets easier once its been pushed enough. I dont have enough time on it to verify that but thats what I heard. $300 for currently the best performance light SETUP is 100% a no brainer.
the only reason i consider this over cheaper options like you said 400 for a white light is ridiculous but i’m still new to building pistols/rifles and don’t have any WML currently so i don’t have any switches, endcaps, mounts and such so buying a regular surefire+end cap+switch+aftermarket heads+mounts would cost more of the cost of a REIN 3.0 that comes with everything you need practically, i don’t like the mount but that’s another 40 i can spare down the road and have the best performance from the start.
One way to kind of get around the large tapeswitch around laser device is to literally cut the wire and make it button only, put it on the left side, make it simpler to operate too, give a bit of naked rail for actual C clamping, I actually like it better that way. I would actually advocate to buy one in that case since it is brighter, cheaper(if you account the shipping cost for shopping around different head,body, mount,and button), and cloud really stand with 2A and against the ATF
Cloud blems are the best deal on the light market. Got my rein 2 for $280 straight from Cloud and couldn’t even find a blem, not that it would matter if it had one. That’s significantly cheaper than a surefire and the rein is the brightest light I’ve ever personally seen
I also don’t have the picky picky issues with the pressure switch you have, but to each their own
You and Delta34 are my new favorite channels on TH-cam. Thank you for so much amazing content. It has been very helpful in helping me plan and budget for getting into night shooting.
I’m sure you were very safe when shooting but not gonna lie I almost pooped myself when I saw the first vehicle drive by in the background as you were shooting in the vehicles general direction lol
Delta 34 is legit! Criminally underrated channel..
Cloud products along with customer service really are top notch. They are expensive BUT if you shop blems or utilize the weapon light trade in program they are much less so. Yes I know 3.0 is not yet eligible for this but be patient or try another model. I have an owl and 1.0 and I've never yet been disappointed.
Really aren’t even more expensive than the competition as the cloud light comes in a kit and when you add up all the other lights body,head, tailcap, tape switch ect
I am pretty sure CD made the constant on button on the tape switch so sensitive so that it could be used like a "reverse momentary". As in, turn the light on, and support hand stays on the button, and barely adjusting pressure will turn the light on or off, with on being the default.
If you pay more than 20 dollars for a WML... you're crazy I don't get why people complain saying oh you need a WML for HD... just open your eyes and train until you have natural night vision...plus you know how many eggs can I buy for 400?...I can probably buy a dozen for that price.
clearly, you never worked at night. Buy once cry once. Dont support CCP junk
eat carrots noobs.
Just mount more to your gun, blind them with the sun
Not all of us have had the good fortune to be confined to a dark basement from a young age @BasementOpetator
Ok Batman😅
Still have my reign 1.0 from years ago, it's been getting blasted by my muzzle devices for a little while now lol, still works amazingly, really wanna get one of these to try out
Try the surefire warden blast forward device saves on blasting your light. My OWL light has piting from my AR-10 . The only drawback with the OWL is it’s top rail mounting then try putting on a B E meyers mawl good luck .
@@scottcampbell2585 got a nox for my dead air, surefire makes me sad
@@Minutes-Mils looking into yankee hill machine for a suppressor. Not looking for Hollywood quite but a reduction in noise. 308 beats everyone up at the range.
I have a few Rein 3.0's. I upgraded from the Streamlight HLX's. A no brainer upgrade in my opinion. Streamlight HLX flicker on recoil out of the box, but you can spend almost another $100 for the Arisaka adapter and the Surefire clicky cap. Now its nearly $200. Thats at the minimum. Now if you want the Surefire tape switch cap and the tape switch....well now you just spent a lot of money on an inferior light.
Going directly Surefire was a non starter for me after considering anything I have seen/read and cost.
I dont have any experience with Modlite so I can not speak for it.
I do know that I am really happy with the Rein 3.0. Now I do not run NV on the rifle so I dont have the space issues that Brass was talking about. I do agree that the tape switch is awkward at first, but I can tell you that it gets easier - either you get use to operating more efficiently or it does "break in".
What I think is a great feature is that I can have both the clicky cap and the tape switch on the same setup in case one goes down. I have experimented with a few positions - mostly 12:00 and 1:00 in either position I can get to either the tape switch or clicky cap very easily.
Yes 12:00 - all my mounts are at least 1.93" so I have clearance. On my 2.26"'s even more so.
Now add in light performance - and it becomes an easier decision. You can take a Streamlight HLX and spend $200+ easily trying to make this light something it isnt, or buy once cry once and spend $350 and a great light that comes with a mount, tape switch, tape switch mount, battery, and battery charger.
Another thing about the tape switch mount is the cable management ability. With that - set up correctly there is zero chance of a snag happening.
I dont know - for me its not that hard of a decision.
I think your first paragraph explains how Modlite, Cloud Defensive, Arisaka came to be. Cost barriers on Surefire, reliability issues with Streamlight, improving the core unit gets spendy. The Rein gives you the whole package. I can't imagine spending for big-candela Rein power on a 150yds max situation, but for reaching out it's irreplaceable. Makes good sense for target ID at distance. For urban, suburban or home defense it seems a good product put into an "overkill" use category. I think that's what the OWL was for, wasn't it?
@@seanoneil277 I always rather have too much that I dont need than too little that I may need. Odds are I will never need the full potential of the Rein 3.0, but by some small chance I do - I have it.
The Owl is in and out of stock so that becomes another issue.
@@paulyp9853 Yeah I get that mindset, it's just that the beam pattern and its use of light energy is not optimal for 150yds and in. Even their spilliest light head still punches way out there. There are much better uses of your batteries' energy for nearer distance lighting. It's best to set yourself up for the 85+% of uses you'll encounter, rather than for the 15% you might see. But in any case, you chose an excellent light by all accounts.
@@seanoneil277 I have to disagree the spill is excellent as well. I wouldnt have kept them if it didnt spill as well. Any light is going to be stronger in one area (spill vs beam), but this light has it covered pretty well. At 150 and in it is still excellent in my opinion.
@@paulyp9853 I don't think you're disagreeing, as I'm talking about where you want your light energy to go -- not whether this overall excellent light can be used at nearer distances. I'm talking about optimization. It's what I'd choose for a rifle that reaches out a long ways, and would spend my money differently for nearer situations. For one rifle suiting all situations it's an excellent choice, and no doubt worth what they're asking when you compare to the newer Surefire Scout boosted (or whatever they call them) models and consider what switch you'll end up running. It's a great light in a turnkey package, where there are so many tailcap & switch options that can cloud the mix.
Just got a 3.0 yesterday, I like it alot so far.
The show and tell about the tape switch is what sets this video apart from other reviewers.
Proprietary Is a more a preference thing. One of the reasons I returned mine. The main reason I returned mine was a concern of reliability. The metal housing On the bezzle is way more thin to accommodate the wider reflector thing and lens, so less of buffer to absorb shock maybe?
The head rolled off a coffee table at 3ft and hit the tile when i was taking out the batterie. The hotspot in the light shifted, amd was off center to the spill. Also got an artifact. At the time I thought the artifact was caused by the fall, but it could've been a piece of dust, cause the same thing happened my OKW head, and it was dust. But for sure the led shifted inside the bezzle or something. Still worked just fine just an ocd ish thing.
It was just Is my unit. I bought the thing right when It was available on retail the market. So take that into consideration. And maybe this is the thing with all lights and I'm complaining about nothing.
Still trying to see if the new Surefire Turbo will perform the same as the Cloud Defensive Rein 3.0. The reason is that Surefire’s hinge mlok mount and low profile tape switch is superior to the Cloud Defensive Rein mounting options and their high profile remote switch. The Rein definitely pushes through photonic barriers with situational awareness spill.
Yea I’m wondering the same
I upgraded from the REIN 1 to the 3.0 almost entirely for the dual fuel feature. Yes it's brighter and technically better but not as big a leap in performance as the 1.0 was from my old Streamlight HLX.
I think the Cloud light is a solid buy since it's near top tier performance and comes with everything you need to get started: basic Pic mount, battery, charger and tape switch.
The algorithm requires engagement
Why doesn’t anyone ever talk about the Arisaka 18650 lights. Less money and more throw/candela than a Surefire. Another thing to consider also is the added cost of tape switches, 3rd party mounting hardware, and in my opinion the necessary Surefire DS tail cap which runs over $100. This is my setup and all said and done it was $400. Same price as the rein 3.0 with Surefire parts interchangeability.
You're slightly confused
arisaka doesn't make lights, they make bodies.
You're thinking of malkoff (which i mentioned several times) which is sold on arisaka's website.
@@BrassFacts I didn’t mean they made the light itself, just that people often don’t mention that you can get a functional light setup from Arisaka with the exceptional Malkoff head for $300 or so, and add a pressure pad later if you desire.
Agree on the switch. I already had two modlites. I tried a Gen 1 rein, sent it back because of how bad the switch was. I voiced these concerns on Facebook comment sections and of course, the fan bois were out in force defending their monetary decisions. I agree with everything you said. I had to use the tip of my thumb to actuate the light. It actually made my thumb get in the way of my sight picture. Sent it back and refuse to use the cloud reins because of the proprietary switch. Also, I have lots of surefire compatible products, like tail caps and bodies. It makes no sense for me to get a cloud defensive rein unless I switch all of my weapon lights to Cloud defensive Reins. However, I'm still waiting for the cloud defensive EPL.
11:00 I believe this is correct. My modlite is significantly darker with a surefire sr07 switch, but I have a surefire tape switch from like 2007 and it works better than the sr07. I can provide pictures if you want.
I’m extremely happy with my HLX so far. Plenty bright enough for the area I live in with very few clear distances near 100 yards. And it’s built like a tank
On the cloud rain tail switch you can click the constant on and depress it and let off on it to get a really quick pulse of light if you need.
Cloud really should just swallow their pride and allow Surefire tailcaps on their lights. I sold both my Reins because I couldn’t get over how bad the switch was.
All the performance in the world doesn’t matter if turning it on is a chore.
yeeeeeahh. I could have worded the tape switch section much more strongly.
@@BrassFacts Driven Arms Co. makes a replacement mount for the switch that lets you mount it at the 11 or 1 o’clock position on an M-lok rail. I had one on mine and it made a world of difference when it came to ease of use. Might be worth looking into if you plan on keeping the light.
That'll be on the next iteration I'm sure.
@@riskyflash6812 I just went to their website and they actually make a lot of neat stuff
At about 4:50 you can clearly see there are cars driving by beyond his target. He's not aiming at them, but bullets do weird things after impact, and ricochet in odd directions. They can also travel farther than you might think. To me, this is completely insane that he would be firing with traffic beyond his target.
Yeah….Accidents Do Happen
They’ll be fine.
@@JEJAK5396 Surface Danger Zones is the relevant concept here.
armypubs.army.mil/epubs/DR_pubs/DR_a/pdf/web/p385_63.pdf
@@JEJAK5396 most likely, but if only takes one incident for them to happily say…no more shooting over there, even in the the most 2A friendly areas. When it’s so easily avoidable.
look at the targets, I'm shooting on the right side of the screen. the cars are on the far left, I'm also shooting down into a valley. This is literally safer than most shooting ranges as ricochet cannot actually go anywhere (straight into the mountain above).
The high profile remote switch is even worse on my tall profile Scar 16 receiver. I’ve also experienced that you have to dig you finger tip on the rubber buttons if not it will flicker because it’s not getting full contact. A solution I found was to mount the switch on an Mlok to picatinny rail adapter. I used a polymer Magpul adapter but had to cut a little of the both ends of the picatinny side because it only has a center slot. At a 45 degree position I can actuate the buttons alot easier.
I got my rein 3.0 on sale for $280, with an included inline Mlok mount. and just recently emailed Cloud defensive and got a free new model improved tape switch no problem. And its awesome.
I was HLX gang FOREVER, and refused to spend money on the light for performance I didn't think I needed (although I should mention the six separate Streamlight pressure pads that I have had to return over the last few years.. f*** that I don't trust them anymore.. was a huge part of why i finally ditched it. Its on a shotgun now with a push button cap. Streamlight pressure pads SUCK) BUT...
The Rein 3.0 is fucking insane. And it goes beyond just the range you get out of the light.
You hit somebody with this white light inside a structure, and it is 100% truly blinding. Not just bright but will physically force them to close their eyes and turn their head, it is retina burning, and is a HUGE force multipier as far as im concerned... as well as the obvious already mentioned fact of cutting through smoke and fog ect which is ALSO important..
I very commonly see them on sale for under 350, and if there's Any light on the market that's worth the money, it's this one....
Get one on sale, and call it good to go.
Every decent wml is about $350-$400 when you add tailcaps, batteries, tapeswitches and the actual light. I think the better question is how did we come to becoming comfortable with buying $350-$400 worth of lights for all our set ups.
dude no idea. I still wince everytime
I've been shopping around and this is the conclusion I came to as well. By the time you ad all the things the rein gives you, you are at 400 or more. Even Arisaka is right around that price if you get the 18650 model
@@GirthQuake3 I lucked out and ended up buying an Arisaka 18650 body, Malkoff E2XLT head w/ momentary tailcap, and offset mlok mount on sale thinking that was the regular pricing. I really thought Arisaka was the one at $217 for the entire set up shipped to my door lol.
Wait your department doesn't buy you lights?
@@boygonewhoopdataZZ if I belonged to a dept then yes but my dept is "pay up dude".
Great video, I recently just bought an Arisaka 18650 because of Hoplopfheil's video, got it today and it works a lot better than the streamlight protac I have on my wife's budget rifle.
i think the idea of using a high candela spot light on your gun is pretty limited in its applications. We spent thousands on flash hiders, suppressors, nods, lams for signature reduction, but hey lets use a 200 m spotlight so anyone within 10 miles can see exactly where we are. I think surefire has it right, the realistic application fro white light is in structures, in close quarters where NODS don't give you enough field of view or with others without nods.
What's your opinion on the practical applications of the streamlight TLR RM2? It appears to be only around 10,000 candela, and known for spill.
This is why Zbolt's LEP is so good, it gives you two different applications to use.
That’s not really how this gets utilized
Engaging targets taking cover within buildings at distance (100-200yds) where they could be partially obscured by a lack of ambient light, lighting up dark environments during daytime (shadows, vehicles, buildings) where pushing through photonic barriers like sunlight, (or at night pushing through light that your target has used to hide behind, hence obscuring them) is an important thing to look at when talking about lights on a "fighting rifle" and not a home defense gun where greater spill and less output would not mean as much
@@mghegotagun I really like my RM2, but I've only tried it indoors, never seen how far I can push it outside.
That said, I would rather have something that uses 16350 or 18350 in that type of form factor to run it at the 12 o'clock position.
The constant on button issues mentioned in this video have not been an issue for me in real world use. I also don’t recommend having a white light that does not have a constant on function that is separate from momentary activation.
You can chop off the tape switch cable and use just the tail cap. .. I know, but it’s an option. And it’s designed to work that way. Having both on provides redundancy if one fails the other works independently
I would hate to destroy a 70 dollar tape switch, to get the same functionality as a 300 dollar light
@@BrassFacts exactly
The CR123 option is the thing I care about. I want to get rid of all my gen 1 REINs for this one.
I went with the HRT with the nipple - Functional light, mount, and nipple-errrr switch, out the door for $300. But I decided I didn't want/need the tape switch, so it worked for me.
You still liking it? I've been thinking I want the nipple
Isn't it awkward to tongue the nipple when you're trying to maintain a good shooting posture?
The shot at 4:20 is gorgeous, can be an advertisement for that camo
He literally disappears
Fyi, Cloud Defensive has released a new "legacy" light body for the Rein that fits Surefire tailcaps. You can get it with a 90,000 candela head for $250 or just the body for $90
Love my Rein 2.0 Micro on my 12.5. I did elect to go with the Valhalla Tactical Baldr light body w/ integrated mount in order to get the light as close as possible to my rail though. Well worth it, btw. Great product.
I think the OKW is still the sweet spot for performance, and it is still modular with other surefire accessories.
Indeed… especially if going the DF OKW route.
My streamlights work well so far. Good review; I showed up for it. I'll buy one one day but for now, I can equip two rifles for the price of one. Shit, almost 3.
Nice to see someone actually compare these, in use, instead of posting reddit threads and selling it on GAFS two months later because they "upgraded".
Same here my streamlight Hlx will do for now.
Sat on the toilet, opened TH-cam, was glad to see this as my first suggested video
4:33
The car moving in the background
Lmao, I love that you left the clip in of the truck driving through your direct shooting direction.
angles are angles, that is about 90 degrees off set, and I'm shooting down into a shielded valley.
Most shooting ranges are less safe.
@@BrassFacts Yea, I fully trust you of all people are being as safe as can be and doing everything by the book.... I just imagined that I was driving by on the road in the vid and looked out the window to see someone busting out shots that looked like it was pointed in my direction. Here in Maryland you have to go downtown Baltimore for that kind of action.
That was a good review, I've got a 2.0, 3.0, OG OWL, and 2 80k OWLs and I love them all.
Thanks for this video. This is the light I'm considering out of all the research I've done. It'll be my first WML.
I’ve had the flickering issue on my PLHV2 and UE tailcap. I fixed it by adding dielectric grease to all the threads and to the spring in the tailcap
I have the 1.0 and the tapeswitch attachment was such a disappointment for my 10.5" SBR setup, you basically lose a bunch of usable space in either direction to the point it's an unacceptable compromise and a different product entirely is the solution.
I think the 1.0 is perfect for a 10.5. IF you are not running nods and a laser and such. Otherwise i agree that the switch is just to big.
That's why I went with the OWL on mine. Solves the real-estate issue.
@@Kycirion It's so heavy though!
Awesome review on the CD Rein 3.0. May I ask what backpack you have and in what configuration (add-ons?) you've opted for? Very unique. Thanks.
What happen to the S7 Tool Steel bezel ring. Heat-treated to 53 Rockwell that the Cloud Defensive REIN 1.0 had???
4:30 woow not gonna lie,
if I was driving in one of those cars down the road and happened to see some guy on a mountain shooting down like that
I'd probably think he's shooting at me and call the cops. I couldn't tell the angle of where he's shooting (obviously you weren't aiming anywhere near the cars)
One could make the argument that you're camouflaged so they wouldn't call cops, but that's a weak argument IMO.
Anyway, stay safe out there.
I was thinking the same thing bold to be shooting in that general direction.
i have the 3.0 and it's impressively bright. my constant button is much stiffer than yours, i would find it hard to accidentally set mine off
I may be broke now, but at least I feel cool when I play with it.
Same😂
I grabbed one of these as one of the gift items at Red Oktober. The light is fantastic. The switch is meh and I would rather have a click switch on the back. They do offer a click switch only but it is currently out of stock. I just threw it on an Arisaka Mlok mount and it fits quite well on my URG-I. Their surefire switch mounts are my favorite solution for rail mounting switches.
What is your shooting spot setup like? The camera angle makes it seem like there’s public road directly down range of your target, I know angles can be deceiving but that seems like some pucker-factor level of risk
commenting to find out. was curious as well.
Yeah I wouldn't put shots like this onto a video. If you want to shoot off of elevated rocks maybe find a spot without a road as a backstop.
@@scruggs6633 I noticed the exact same thing. To me this is insane that you would be firing with a public road right beyond your target. Bullets do very weird things after impact in terms of ricochet and distance. They can travel much farther than you might think. Sometimes they can scale over hills or berms.
I-80
10:06 Could that be a feature?
Once you've clicked into constant ON, you can temporarily turn the light off. Otherwise the buttons have zero function, because you're already constant ON.
Kinda crazy watching him shooting towards the road with vehicles driving by
me: I really should ball out on some Malkoff/Arisaka lights for my guns that don't have them
also me: I really like the price of the HLX and it covers all my bases
🥴
Me sitting here listening wether or not this light is any good as I struggle to afford anything better that an Amazon Feyachi rifle light🧐
omg is part of the reason the surefire is so weak because it's own remote switches are holding it back and so they designed the light around the switch limitation?
I'd rather get the new Turbo rifle lights. The Turbo Mini is 95,000 candela and 650 lumens when using the 18350 battery. And it has duel fuel functionality. Specs get lowered when you use CR123A's: 55,000 candela and 350 lumens. You can get them at pretty steep discounts on various sites.
Zbolt's LEP is dual fuel and is the far superior buy.
@@boygonewhoopdataZZ just check BF video and the specs on the site. The performance for candela does eclipse Turbo. Only problems I see is that the beam is so focused that it has little to no spill to spot shapes in your surrounding area. BF said it was like looking through a straw. Also, I would be worried about the reliability from a smaller company.
@@TROY-MCCLURE-1991 it uses diffusers one that completely destroys the OKW and another that destroys the Surefire 600 series. Reliability isn't even a concern, CD was littered with reliability hence already in the 3rd generation. Zbolt just had a crappy first gen diffuser design that limited the light.
Shooting towards a highway?! Mustve been a bad guy...
Also, in terms of practicality and usability for tactical/combat, long range fighting at night without night vision (like if your NV goes down or something), which is better: the rein or the HRT AWLS
This guy would defend his home with a compound bow and a hunting knife
I have an Arisaka 300 body, Malkoff head, and a Surefire DS07 tailcap/switch which I plan to replace with a modlight button to shrink the size of the switch and I don't care for a constant-on setting on the remote switch.
I'm not saying I have the best set up, but I am saying that all these other lights are really cool yet I have no desire to change my light set-up
Depending on your rail it can be very awkward to activate the switch with your finger/thumb tip. I’ve found that using the bone on the bottom of my thumb knuckle works much better than trying to press with my thumb tip.
Where do you have it mounted on the rail? I'm thinking about using the RSMA mount to attach the tape switch at the 10:30 position on my handguard. Do you think that would work well?
@@TheMsdos25 Mine is at 1200 on the top of the rail. It works for me there as I shoot with a C clamp when I’m standing. Where ever you put it you’ll need to be able to bring some force to the buttons. The challenge with the factory switch is that it’s a full rubber membrane over a switch. It’s exactly like some of the rain proof equipment I used in the military decades ago. The membrane is so thick and the switch is designed so that it’s not activated by mistake. That combination makes pressing the switch hard. Like I said it feels like a piece of radio gear from the 80’s military, you just have to get used to it.
I don't have NV but I do have a rein 2.0 micro. It's a great light and the tape switch is just fine with me.
Yeah I love the REIN 3.0 it’s a monster bada$$ tac light, the price is a monster as well.
Here I am rocking a Streamlight Protac HL-X that cost less than $150. Works for me. Think I’ll keep it and spend $ on ammo and training rather than a wizbang $300 light. YMMV.
I picked up a used 1.0, dual spring model for $200 with an arasaka mount and extra battery late last year. It was like new. I try to buy used if the price and shape is right.
How much training are you getting for $150?
Good luck.....I've had two Protac's crap the bed.
that is what I did until I had to buy these lights for review
Yes sirr
Funny thing is, there was at least one dealer selling it for $300 at launch so you know the profit margins are huge.
That's good they should be making lots of money
@@LehewTech yup they should make all the money they absolutely can until their competition beats them on price and performance, this is the way
People waste a lot of money on accessories that don’t actually add capability, WML’s aren’t one of them. You absolutely should get expensive lights and I’ll never buy a good enough light again after using modlights. Two reasons beyond being irresponsible with money, rechargeable bats that don’t kill performance and durability, your light shitting the bed will ruin your night.
Yeah I'll just keep building my own for a fourth of the cost of this, with pretty much identical components. WML pricing is bullshit.
@@coltonowens2742 you’re paying for potted electronics, coated glass, switches that won’t break and battery life that doesn’t suck, and usually modlights run cheaper than cloud defense
@@noneyabusiness2779 My lights are potted, with heavy duty springs, orings, and good cells. With a little tinkering, I can get surefire tape switches working, or just run a basic forward clicky tailcap.
@@coltonowens2742 “building my own” you mean buying crap and putting it together? Or are you machining your own?
@@ACGBLR I mean if the semantics matter that much to you, I'm assembling quality components, to put together quality lights.
Love this one man! Got a rein 1 vs 2 vs 3 coming out... Some day lol I'll link to yours!
-Walsh
Streamlight polytac is undefeated
I need a patch of that intro incon with the dog. PLEASE
I've got an OWL and 2 Rein lights, excellent products!
Tape switch is silly if all you have is a white light. More money, weight, complexity, and it lowers the waterproof rating to remove the simple tail cap switch
They are dropping a solution for this. You can also convert these to run any surefire switch... An adapter exists.
I'll spend $400 to make nighttime into daytime since spending 6-7k for nightvision is a little outside my means.
Im a cheapass and I still prefer surefire stuff but Im warming to the malkoff e2ht heads, arasaka bodies and sturefire switches because thats the industry standard even if some companies like to prolaps with them
Still have my 1.0, haven't really felt the need to upgrade it.
@5:09 Wow your camo is working very nicely there
before i watch let me say, if you cost more than a full length scout light, ill pass. however, after going through the m640df fiasco myself, i can see why one might not want that sf goodness after being hurt so bad.
Who is the larper shooting in the direction of a highway, the one with the tanker driving on it?
Good vid
Side note, how is the US Night Vision DIR-V working out now that you have more time with it? I'm stuck in civ laser hell, and am struggling to decide what to purchase.
it's okay, the constant on function broke.
I mean my surefire M640DF is like $380 these days and the tailcap and switch is another $175 so $400 doesn’t seem bad at all in today’s prices.
that's MSRP, I just checked, most places sell the DF for 300. The 380 dollar one is the turbo. Which infact is a significantly better deal than this imo
that being said you can get the Rein 3 for 350 now.
Does CD still do the thing where they’ll give you $100 off if you send in any old WML?
do you have a video on tape switches?
I've got the 1.0 and 2.0...and I think I'm good.
The lights themselves are excellent and the tape switch is workable. Would I like to use a mod button or something instead? Yes. Especially on the short boi.
But they're definitely nice for what you're paying.
I mean i guess its perspective, but I always think I can get 90% function for half the cost.
I got an OWL when they were first released and haven't looked for another light - I only have one rifle and it has good shit on it.
The Weltool T8 and W3Pro LEP heads are unofficially compatible.
This was my first CD product and for the release price of $400+ after everything is said and done, I was disappointed. Pressure pad like you said is ridiculously hard to activate momentary. Without a C clamp, good luck not moving your POI as you try and finger your rifle a new one if you have to actuate it from the side. The head is a bit massive compared to lets say Modlite and is not compatible with some LAMS in certain orientations, such as my D2.
Would not recommend for $400ish. For 300, yes, if you can get over the downsides. If I had to choose again, Modlite OWK with clicky cap. Braindead simple.
thanks for the input
What side are you mounting your light? I have a rein 1.0 with the massive head it it works with my D2 on the right side
Maybe you should lift some weights if the momentary is too hard to push. Lol
@@ACGBLR no amount of weights will make it so you can push plastic out of the way.
@@fury556 I prefer mine at the 10-11ish position. I could do 9 or even 8, but not my preference.
I’ll stick with Streamlight, thanks tho Lol it’s nice, absolutely!! Never paying that stupidity tho!! I’ll build it before I do that 😉😂