interesting, learn something every day. copper pipe was a temp spacer for crap bearing. fixing 2 lawnmowers here, lost a drive nut as cats nocked bits off bench, will measure nut and pitch and hunt for a drive rear nut. thankyou,great videos. £50 hour from mechanic,bugger that. just bought an oil sucker tool they are cool, no mess. take care duns,scotland.
Planned obsolescence…It’s killing our planet- but keeping the share holders rich. Why wouldn’t you add £5 of bearings to ensure it works for 20 years unless you need consumers to keep re-buying. Great fix Mick 👍🏻
Glad u had spares to upgrade those wheels there. Better bearings on that one plastic only lasts so long like u had i think design flaw there. great video
You make due right now Mick ! Have a mower drive in the front and I can't get one wheel off ? Turns when I lift the front up but it don't drive ! Have you ever had trouble getting a wheel off argh ! 🤯
Appears your customer watched Steves Saloon woobly wheel fix using copper pipe to repair the situation but it leaves roughly 0.028" clearance and if you do not get your 5/8" hole drilled in the true centre then it is offset and not a good idea on the drive wheels but ok on push wheels. We use isostatic bushings with 0.001" clearance to repair worn push wheels.
It's just like 2 mowers I have at the moment, XCEED and SANLI, trying to get parts for them is a total nightmare. Plus they're all made to a budget and not a standard.
The copper thing is a pre soldered copper coupler. Presumably in there to take up the wear in the wheel. It is a bit pants. That brand is also sold in tool station.
You missed the washer on the shaft before the wheel goes on. That is why the wheel stiffens up when you tighten the nut, You also need the smaller washer on before the nut. The threaded shaft is narrower than the bearing shaft and the washers allow the nut to tighten down on the ridge whilst still allowing the wheel to spin freely. JMOO. Good Videos and entertaining content. Thank You.
The issue it seems there is with the metal drive gear. It has a series of spring loaded metal pieces inside which 'grip' the driven shaft in one direction only, which allows them to work as the mower drive is engaged, but then it can freewheel when the drive is released. These metal pieces get corroded up and then don't spring back properly, resulting in them not gripping the metal shaft correctly. Soaking in wd40 or similar can free them up, also using a screwdriver to try pushing them in and out can help. Similar design on other machines. Einhell is a company in its own right so sold in lots of places online.
just as catcha cow says its planned obsolescence use a design with several points of wear then use cheap plastics and poor quality bearings ensuring it will fail after a season or two in the hopes the owner just buys another one where if the same design was made up of decent quality materials it would run for years. cars are the same as well now with key components made of cheese that last just long enough to see out the warranty!
Nothing wrong with secondhand parts. Insurance companies are happy with car repair shops using then. Not much is built to last nowadays, everything seems to fail just after the warranty period expires. Copper pipe was used as a bush to try take the wobble out.
Hi Mick. i have just picked my self up a Hayter Hayterette. its the older style with the carb that bolts into the petrol tank. i may need some spares and wondered where would be the best place to contact. Any help would be appreciated.
![Self Propelled Lawnmower Wheels Locked Up [Easy Fix]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OF1KYP8NPv8/mqdefault.jpg)
Just love it when you kick those fiddle fairies into touch Mick. Well done.
Thanks, Mick...You're a great Mowtivational speaker!
interesting, learn something every day. copper pipe was a temp spacer for crap bearing. fixing 2 lawnmowers here, lost a drive nut as cats nocked bits off bench, will measure nut and pitch and hunt for a drive rear nut. thankyou,great videos. £50 hour from mechanic,bugger that. just bought an oil sucker tool they are cool, no mess. take care duns,scotland.
Ta for watching mate
Sorted, ive seen a couple of vids where people use copper pipe but not on the drive wheels. Great vid.
Good video Mick its handy when you keep spare parts
Great video and fix. Looking forward to the stream after the kids are put to bed. Have a nice day!
Once again saved by the old spares. Another great video thanks for sharing.
excellent work
Sweet job it's awesome when a job barely gets hands dirty 👏
Going to cut the grass today with my Mountfield after watching your videos Mick 👍
Nice upgrade. That should last the rest of the mowers life!
Another happy customer Spot on 👍👍👍👍
Good fix Mick. Here Einhell parts are hard to come by
Mick can i say your knowledge on lawnmowers has really helped me. Any chance could you send me one of your hats pls. Thanks Derek
Hi mate .. I have an online store where you can get the from..
micksmowersthemowerman.myspreadshop.co.uk/accessories+caps+%26+hats?q=P46
Brilliant video mate
Planned obsolescence…It’s killing our planet- but keeping the share holders rich. Why wouldn’t you add £5 of bearings to ensure it works for 20 years unless you need consumers to keep re-buying. Great fix Mick 👍🏻
Very nice .
Glad u had spares to upgrade those wheels there. Better bearings on that one plastic only lasts so long like u had i think design flaw there. great video
You make due right now Mick ! Have a mower drive in the front and I can't get one wheel off ? Turns when I lift the front up but it don't drive ! Have you ever had trouble getting a wheel off argh ! 🤯
Could be a belt of cable adjustment needed.. if not sound like the gearbox mate
That piece of copper pipe is actually a Yorkshire straight connector. I suppose the raised parts of the joint are the nearest to the correct diameter.
Hi mick I always thought it was said ironhell that's what my powertool rep used to say
Appears your customer watched Steves Saloon woobly wheel fix using copper pipe to repair the situation but it leaves roughly 0.028" clearance and if you do not get your 5/8" hole drilled in the true centre then it is offset and not a good idea on the drive wheels but ok on push wheels. We use isostatic bushings with 0.001" clearance to repair worn push wheels.
Enjoyed this one mick,,, not built to last,, shame isn’t it
Hi mick sometimes you have to use second hand parts I do a lot the copper pipe is a old trick when the wheels are shot
Another great video Mick. Such a shame that we are living in a throw away world !!
Good job Mick 👍
It's just like 2 mowers I have at the moment, XCEED and SANLI, trying to get parts for them is a total nightmare.
Plus they're all made to a budget and not a standard.
Hi Mick. Another great video. Those neck tube things are really great. They can stop your hair blowing in your eyes.😜
Was feeling the pain all the way through this one Mick, been there got the T shirt mate
it wasnt a mend it man fix he uses coke cans bless him it was a favourite quick fix if we couldnt get the parts
The copper thing is a pre soldered copper coupler. Presumably in there to take up the wear in the wheel. It is a bit pants. That brand is also sold in tool station.
You missed the washer on the shaft before the wheel goes on. That is why the wheel stiffens up when you tighten the nut, You also need the smaller washer on before the nut. The threaded shaft is narrower than the bearing shaft and the washers allow the nut to tighten down on the ridge whilst still allowing the wheel to spin freely. JMOO. Good Videos and entertaining content. Thank You.
It's called a 15mm pre soldered Yorkshire fitting I think..
Good job Mick, I loved the "Ha Ha Ha" laugh of contentment when the donor drive gears worked as they should.
Love it when a plan comes together
Heck yeah!!! 🙂👍🏼
Good video Mick. Ive been getting some Tesco special in lately. Nightmare.
The issue it seems there is with the metal drive gear. It has a series of spring loaded metal pieces inside which 'grip' the driven shaft in one direction only, which allows them to work as the mower drive is engaged, but then it can freewheel when the drive is released. These metal pieces get corroded up and then don't spring back properly, resulting in them not gripping the metal shaft correctly. Soaking in wd40 or similar can free them up, also using a screwdriver to try pushing them in and out can help. Similar design on other machines. Einhell is a company in its own right so sold in lots of places online.
just as catcha cow says its planned obsolescence use a design with several points of wear then use cheap plastics and poor quality bearings ensuring it will fail after a season or two in the hopes the owner just buys another one where if the same design was made up of decent quality materials it would run for years. cars are the same as well now with key components made of cheese that last just long enough to see out the warranty!
Nothing wrong with secondhand parts. Insurance companies are happy with car repair shops using then. Not much is built to last nowadays, everything seems to fail just after the warranty period expires. Copper pipe was used as a bush to try take the wobble out.
Hey mick I love your vids can I have a shoutout please
Hi Mick. i have just picked my self up a Hayter Hayterette. its the older style with the carb that bolts into the petrol tank. i may need some spares and wondered where would be the best place to contact.
Any help would be appreciated.
Amazon,eBay, or garden hire spares..
Jobs a good un mick