You did my heart good by the amount of finish you used. I see so many using the finish sparingly and not really getting and good depth of finish in the woods. Thank you for all your videos.
I have a 50 y/o table in my backyard in Michigan, and it's clear redwood. Other than greying out, and some squirrel toothmarks from digging seeds from the cracks, it's in excellent condition.
Hi, another very interesting outdoor wood is black locust. While somewhat difficult to work with, black locust is very rot resistant, hard and strong. Plus it’s a “weed” tree most people are happy to get rid of.
These days I'd pick an outdoor wood species that is most related to your region. For instance in the south I'd use cypress because it'll be easier and cheaper to obtain and weather nicely in the region of origin.
Best outdoors? Ipe. Coney Island boardwalk was made out of Ipe and lasted decades even when exposed to salt water and stampede like traffic. Crazy dense wood. Make sure your have sharp or new blades.
I’ve inherited a Burma teak bench from my great grandparents. Its over 100 years old, made of very rare Burmese teak and its still going fairly strong, its still in use at least. After scrubbing all the algae off and adding a brace underneath using a scrap piece of oak and then some osmo exterior oil. It looks great! Fairly solid when sitting on it, joints are still pretty loose though since they’ve weathered away over the years. Teak sure is a winner though! Amazing!
Ive found that more basic joints tend to last longest outdoors, dowels, or even screws. Mortise and tenons tend to rot around the joint and their not really salvageable after that and they have to be filled or rebuilt. Dowels can just be knocked back in or replaced, same with screws
just a crazy thing I do with exterior wood projects is use little blocks of pvc/azek for under leg areas so no wood is sitting in water...if the project is painted paint them and they blend in or paint them black for stained wood. usually 1/4 - 3/8" in ht gives it enough clearance without showing them off to help a lot of water soak during rain.
Super Storm Sandy blew up the Long Beach Long Island Boardwalk. The rebuild selection was IPE. The wood is dense...won't float....if another Super Storm rolls in and undoes the Boardwalk, the wood will sink in place or close by and can be reused to build the boardwalk back. Thanks for the video. You've got this figured out.
I’ve been using thermally modified (poplar, red oak, ash) and I’m really impressed. I plan on using it for the exterior of my home at some point. Can’t say enough good things about it.
Personally I LOVE Penofin. I have a Mahogany front door which I finished with Penofin Ipe oil. Looks amazing, has UV protection and after a very cold and wet PNW winter it still glimmers and looks amazing. It is a bit pricey but well worth it! Love the table!
As usual, excellent video and very informative. Thanks for producing all the videos you do, they’re a tremendous resource for novice woodworkers like myself!!
My favorite outdoor furniture timber is Silver Ash from Australia. It turns grey, as most unimproved timbers are, but there is a feature about that timber that is not shared amongst ordinary wood. Silver Ash develops a metallic sheen that is wonderful. It adds depth to that timber that cannot be beat. Teak, Birdseye Maple and Champher Laurel have the same effect. They do not easily rot, and are immune to wood borers. Shipwrights know of these beautiful timbers.
Instead of epoxy for capping the end grain on the bottom of the legs, have you considered CA glue? I often use thin CA glue to saturate the end grain and have had good luck with that technique. My thought for using it is that it actually absorbs into the structure of the wood from the ends which would prevent in my mind the water from seeping in that same area.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom wouldn't it have been better to have the bottom piece go under the vertical pieces? Not that the table is going to be holding a lot of weight, but it just seems logical to have the weight be transferred to the bottom "plate" rather than straight to the ground. Either way though, some sort of "foot" pad to go on the corners to keep the whole thing off the ground would be a must. Love the look of the table, though. Both the design and the wood choice. Very cool.
I've been building live edge slab furniture (mostly outdoor pieces) with California Incense-cedar (Calocedrus decurrens) for 25 years. I either leave it raw or use Minwax tongue oil finish. This wood is soft, but if you use all heartwood, it lasts many years. I've also built a lot of pieces using heart Redwood, and it also lasts a very long time and can be left raw. Leaving either of these woods raw will allow natural weathering to turn them grey. After about three years the pieces look like driftwood found on a beach. For hardwood try Locust. This wood is so hard that when I mill it, I typically go through a regular Woodmizer blade on one log. It has so many natural preservatives in it that settlers made their fence posts and rails from them. I read somewhere that Abe Lincoln used to split locust fence rails and posts by hand as a job when he was young. It is quite beautiful, and leaving it raw or just hand-rubbed with a light penetrating oil is all that it is needed.
I'm a repeat customer. In fact, I recently purchased some African Mahogany as my first big-boy hardwood project. A 3' by 5' Cross for the Church. And it came out nice, if I do say so myself. Next up is the wine rack. I wish you were a YT'er instead of a HW dealer 😁 You have a great way of presenting the information and *clearly* chock full of knowledge. Love your company, love your videos.
You should also try Vitex / Molave wood. its also called as Malayan Teak, Pacific Teak, New Guinea Teak, etc. its native in south east asia. Most Indonesian wood workers now mostly working with this wood rather than using Teak, because old teak just getting hard to find the price getting higher. this also came from same family with Teak. its durable and dense
1st time watching your video and it was not only informative but also fun and carefree, so subscribed immediately! Thank you for a wonderful video, plus I love that table so much that I'm going to build it.
I have thermowood Ash (thermo essen) on my facade. Which naturally greys completely after a few years. It is a soft wood made suitable for the outdoors.
Another wood to use for outdoor projects is goncalo alves - usually called tigerwood in the US. It is used for decks quite a bit. It's super durable and dense - not as dense as ipe, but nearly so. A deck made from tigerwood will weather and turn gray, but will last on the order of 25 years, or even more, if the end grain is sealed properly. If it is cared for, re-stained every few years, and the end grain kept sealed, it should last several decades. It is really heavy, so if you use it to make outdoor furniture, it isn't going to be easy to move around, but it will last a long, long time and look great. Because it is so dense, many stains will not penetrate the wood. Penofin stain/protectant made for tigerwood works well, and it's just about the only finish I would trust for it. I had bad, bad experiences with other stains on my tigerwood deck.
Great video as always! I would like to see for the more exotic species is a discussion of the reactions that you can develop from the dust and exposure to them. The last teak project I worked on was probably 20 years ago (a gift for my father in law’s boat). What I didn’t realize is that teak is a sensitizer. For me I got a allergic reaction that developed over the course of the time that I was working with the wood. By the time I finished the project I had to wear gloves taped up to a long sleeve shirt and wear a respirator because I was breaking out from the dust. Teak is notorious for this as I found out later. Can you comment on the potential for sensitivities for the other species? Thanks!
Oof ... that sucks ... really lost for words, other than I hope you find a work around that allows you to enjoy this hobby. I learned to focus on other things to ... Squirrel!
That is an awesome design. Always love watching your videos. Can’t wait for the next one. I’ve been watching all your species specials or whatever you call them. If I’m ever in the area I’ll stop by!
Here in Souther California the biggest thing is to protect from UV rays damaging everything, we have just had rain for a few days and it’s a really big deal. Lol
spar urethane is a really good coat for outdoor stuff, I made a little ramp from the concrete of the back porch down to the grass for my mom cuz she doesn't handle steps very well. I live in Florida and it's position right underneath the edge of the roof means when it rains it comes down like a waterfall on the ramp and after a year on the grass in the Florida humidity, rain and sun it looks and is as sturdy as the day it finished drying. it's made outta some live oak from a tree I cut down in the woods out back. if I had the money though I would have made it outta Ipe or Brazilian tigerwood for the looks although the live oak looks nice too
Ever tried marsh water glass approach for outdoor wood furniture ... Sodium silicate, with lavender oil, Tea tree oil, Jojoba oil, Citronella oil, methylated spirits & silicon? I'm told it's a thing down south in the marsh area's.
Awesome Mark brother, great video. I really enjoy the detail in each step you went through. Nicely done, once I get into a better spot financially, I'll be placing an order for sure, and I can't wait. I digress, I really just wanted to say that you're videos are very informative. Had a lot of really great information. Great work, how you went through each step, picking material, picking glue, building, finish, the all the way around video start to finish in under ten min. Awesome my friend. Alright sorry about the novel! Keep it up! Till next time. Take care!
What about Ekki, this wood is rot resistance, very durable and has good resistance to insect attack. It also takes 50 years to season and is used in new Lock Gates in the UK canal system.
I've had great success building outdoor stuff using Siberian larch. Here in Sweden larch is very reasonable priced compared to the alternatives. Finished with outdoor rated tung oil it looks pretty good, but as usual it needs to be reapplied regularly.
If you are actually wanting the best wood for outdoor furniture it wasn't even included on your list. You are looking at Osage Orange (also known as hedge). Granted this is not typically able to be sourced from many lumber yards. However its natural properties have resistance to rot, bugs, mold, etc... Osage orange has a stunning look as well.
Thanks for this great video! I love the table I might make some myself! If I was in Arizona (one day) I would start today… but I’ll save for spring in NJ… gross here now!
As always, a great video with fair presentation of _factual information_ avoiding slant based on your business, or general speculative throwaway opinion. Thank you. I've worked with marine architecture and fittings from ocean cruise ships down to small coastal boats, and yes, Teak really should be stopped from being used. Much the same could be said of Iroko and many others on the list, but that's a whole other conversation. Regrading Titebond II/III. Titebond II is not for direct water contact, and I've always termed it "porch" or for workpieces that see outdoor environmental moisture but not in direct contact. Out of the rain and snow. III is still not entirely waterproof, but works very well with direct water contact. In addition, it's made to be more flexible to allow for wood movement in reaction to environmental moisture. II also, but less so. Here in Europe I always go to the spec sheets, or going by known standards like "D3" glue, etc. I love Owatrol D1 and D2 as finishes....D1 is a penetrating marine oil and D2 is a compatible building finish for marine.
I should probably point out that I would never use Titebond on marine....haha! Epoxies, two-part phenolics, etc. Terrible for health, but just incredible performance as marine adhesives.
Come on Tristan. Don’t just toss out that Teak and most of the other woods on the list shouldn’t be used. Why ? Give us a list of good woods to use. I know here in the US we have plenty of Red and White Oak
@@RayRay-tw6gv I don't think the average home gamer (which I am also, outside of work!) shouldn't use them, since we aren't really the drivers of unsustainable practice and indiscriminate harvesting to satisfy worldwide demand. The industrial marine end of things I come from (literally big six figures in Teak per month, many cubic metres in large gauges) in cruise ship and super yacht outfitting and that sort of level of high-cash demand definitely is. Any sort of process to reproduce the properties and look of Teak in sustainable materials would be a literal money printer. I've even been involved in projects exploring that (albeit not the ones I think have the highest chances of success, the biochemical end of the game is where that's at) but even then, big indiscriminate money will continue to get real Teak one way or another until the species just fails. Without starting that discussion, think "Rosewood, China, CITES Appendix II debacle" for an example. Just don't get used to it if you do use them, because they're not forever woods. White Oak is a great wood if you do the necessary design work to prevent ingress and pooling, and have a good maintenance schedule. The same goes for common domestics like Larch, etc. Exotics and special imports do create an "eyes bigger than our belly" desire issue that we're just too comfortable with.
Cool vid. Yuppp teak is great but there are about 10+ types of Teak and its not cheap. If its lower grade Teak, its not all that great for the price, its just the Tree name your paying for. Burmese Teak A - heart wood...that's the good stuff, it has a great strong distinct aromatic scent to it. Its also the kind used for Yachts because of its natural oily wax that repels water from the ocean and rain. That grey has a mold to it and needs to be scrubbed off more than people think, its just alot of work. Its tough wood to hurt. Gluing it is tricky. I got tired of being told alot of furniture was made of " Teak " and it wasn't or it was very low grade Teak. I Have not seen too much Burmese Teak furniture, but there is alot of Indonesian Teak stuff around. Why people Stain it... is stupid.... it hides the natural beauty of it. Once stained...anything can be Teak. White rustic Oak is also a very good outdoor alternative. White oak is used for wine Barrels, boats and ships and on the USS Constitution ( Old Ironside ), where the cannon balls would bounce off because of the toughness of the Oak.
Mark........looking at the video, I noticed you were wearing a respirator while handling and applying the wood finish. Were you using something more than just a dust mask? So I'm curious about what safety measures you undertook with that highly volatile stuff? The SDS for the material carries a lot of precautions: avoiding breathing fumes, ventilation, avoiding skin contact, avoiding eye contact, and handling of contaminated clothing. I have two tables built and now am ready to apply finish; thus the question about safety. Thanks.
How often do you expect to have to refinish the tables and what is involved with that using the oil finish you used? Stripping the old finish first, etc? I live just down I-10 from your Tucson store in Cochise county. You sold me all the hardwoods to make all of the cabinetry and moldings when building our home a few years ago and I am gearing up to build an outdoor table for my Big Green Egg BBQ grill in the next couple months. My plan was to just use SPAR varnish, but I absolutely HATE working with it! If the option you used is easier and will hold up to the AZ sun at 5000 feet...
Great video. You now have a new subscriber. I’m making an Adirondack chair out of Spanish and Western Red cedar. I’m only using the Spanish because of the cost of WR. Is this ok? What other wood would you recommend? I’m going to use a home made combination of Mineral Spirits, Linseed oil and wax, followed by a sealer. I’d like your thoughts on this. I will seriously consider your recommendations. Thanks, Paul
Spruce is by far the cheapest. It is also by weight the ultimate carbon fiber. Plus in wet areas as the coast of scandinavia, it is the main wood used. And, surprise, surprice, it is outside. As all wood it need dry periods. In tropical climate, soak the end grain in kerosene.
Hi. Thanks for doing these useful videos. I have a question - my new entrance door has been made of solid wood, but I need to finish it with nice walnut for outside and white colour for inside. I know you have used Danish Oil for walnut before, but what would be the best finish for exterior side? It won't be exposed to rain or snow, but to hot/cold temperatures.
Very nice Mark, I have had good luck using Teak oil on my outdoor builds I live in the northeast so our summers are short but I have a bench I built 25+yrs ago & I just re coat it every couple years. My next project is to build 2 outdoor rocking chairs, Do you have any 6/4 or 8/4 stock I only need enough for both curved legs the rest I can use 4/4. Thanks
Hola...hermosos acabados que das a la madera...una pregunta y si usara la cera FEED AND WAX DE HOWARD me serviría para exterior?... mi plan es ponerle a una casita que hice para mi perro, ponerle aceite de teka de WATCO y luego podría poner el FEED AND WAX para no tener que gastar en el HOWARD para exteriores?...Muchas gracias!!!!
If I was going to make a outdoor towel hanger for a couple of friends that just got a new pool installed in their backyard what wood would you recommend for that?
You didn't mention acacia wood. There's lots of imported outdoor furniture on the market that use acacia. Much less expensive than most of the other woods. Wikipedia cites two million hectares of commercial plantations have been established.
That table looks great! Not my style with the angles but great construction, great final color and I love the slats. Thanks for the vid. One question: was the choice to go with oak purely because you're familiar with it, color, and it's relatively inexpensive or are there some performance benefits over the others you had?
Bois d'arc.
It's plentiful, beautiful, and bulletproof durable.
You did my heart good by the amount of finish you used. I see so many using the finish sparingly and not really getting and good depth of finish in the woods. Thank you for all your videos.
I have a 50 y/o table in my backyard in Michigan, and it's clear redwood. Other than greying out, and some squirrel toothmarks from digging seeds from the cracks, it's in excellent condition.
Great topic !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi, another very interesting outdoor wood is black locust. While somewhat difficult to work with, black locust is very rot resistant, hard and strong. Plus it’s a “weed” tree most people are happy to get rid of.
These days I'd pick an outdoor wood species that is most related to your region. For instance in the south I'd use cypress because it'll be easier and cheaper to obtain and weather nicely in the region of origin.
Best outdoors? Ipe. Coney Island boardwalk was made out of Ipe and lasted decades even when exposed to salt water and stampede like traffic. Crazy dense wood. Make sure your have sharp or new blades.
True, I build decks out of it in Ontario Canada.
I built a deck from ipe and it came out fantastic. You must seal the end grain though.
I’ve inherited a Burma teak bench from my great grandparents. Its over 100 years old, made of very rare Burmese teak and its still going fairly strong, its still in use at least. After scrubbing all the algae off and adding a brace underneath using a scrap piece of oak and then some osmo exterior oil. It looks great! Fairly solid when sitting on it, joints are still pretty loose though since they’ve weathered away over the years. Teak sure is a winner though! Amazing!
Ive found that more basic joints tend to last longest outdoors, dowels, or even screws. Mortise and tenons tend to rot around the joint and their not really salvageable after that and they have to be filled or rebuilt. Dowels can just be knocked back in or replaced, same with screws
just a crazy thing I do with exterior wood projects is use little blocks of pvc/azek for under leg areas so no wood is sitting in water...if the project is painted paint them and they blend in or paint them black for stained wood. usually 1/4 - 3/8" in ht gives it enough clearance without showing them off to help a lot of water soak during rain.
Super Storm Sandy blew up the Long Beach Long Island Boardwalk. The rebuild selection was IPE. The wood is dense...won't float....if another Super Storm rolls in and undoes the Boardwalk, the wood will sink in place or close by and can be reused to build the boardwalk back. Thanks for the video. You've got this figured out.
Mark,
Thanks for the video, I've been watching for a few years. I do appreciate your passion and teaching style.
I’ve been using thermally modified (poplar, red oak, ash) and I’m really impressed. I plan on using it for the exterior of my home at some point. Can’t say enough good things about it.
Personally I LOVE Penofin. I have a Mahogany front door which I finished with Penofin Ipe oil. Looks amazing, has UV protection and after a very cold and wet PNW winter it still glimmers and looks amazing. It is a bit pricey but well worth it!
Love the table!
As usual, excellent video and very informative. Thanks for producing all the videos you do, they’re a tremendous resource for novice woodworkers like myself!!
I have been buying wood from yall for just over a year and only had 1 piece of hard maple that was cracked. Love your videos and your woods
Hey Drew! if you ever get a board that won’t work for you, let customer service know and we can work out a solution one way or another 👍👍👍
I may need to take a trip to the US to try and get some of that beautiful roasted oak. Feels wrong to say it but that red oak looks amazing!
Worse things have happened 😎
Ah, Mark, I never cease to be in awe of you and your woodworking knowledge and ability. Another great video.
Thank you Andy 👍👍
Awesome video! Love the shot of Teak, Iroko & Afromosia getting dripped on with that Walrus Oil. Informative video as always, quality job gentelmen!
My favorite outdoor furniture timber is Silver Ash from Australia. It turns grey, as most unimproved timbers are, but there is a feature about that timber that is not shared amongst ordinary wood. Silver Ash develops a metallic sheen that is wonderful. It adds depth to that timber that cannot be beat. Teak, Birdseye Maple and Champher Laurel have the same effect. They do not easily rot, and are immune to wood borers. Shipwrights know of these beautiful timbers.
Love the angles you ripped on the sides of the slats. Nice touch!
Hey Mark, did you put together a design plan for that table? I really like it and I'd like to try making it if that's okay with you.
Painted Wood.... Yep. Hoping my patio box stays together. Went cheap as possible. Then trimmed, caulked, painted to increase its water resistance.
Mark a nice outdoor table--have you got plans for it
wish I had something more respectable than what you see in the drawing at 3:45 in the video. Pretty much worked out the nitty gritty as we went.
Love the table. Also the explanations!
Instead of epoxy for capping the end grain on the bottom of the legs, have you considered CA glue? I often use thin CA glue to saturate the end grain and have had good luck with that technique. My thought for using it is that it actually absorbs into the structure of the wood from the ends which would prevent in my mind the water from seeping in that same area.
That would have been a better way to go. Much faster for sure! Thanks.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom wouldn't it have been better to have the bottom piece go under the vertical pieces? Not that the table is going to be holding a lot of weight, but it just seems logical to have the weight be transferred to the bottom "plate" rather than straight to the ground. Either way though, some sort of "foot" pad to go on the corners to keep the whole thing off the ground would be a must.
Love the look of the table, though. Both the design and the wood choice. Very cool.
Now that is a good idea
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 yes, that would have been way better.
I've been building live edge slab furniture (mostly outdoor pieces) with California Incense-cedar (Calocedrus decurrens) for 25 years. I either leave it raw or use Minwax tongue oil finish. This wood is soft, but if you use all heartwood, it lasts many years. I've also built a lot of pieces using heart Redwood, and it also lasts a very long time and can be left raw. Leaving either of these woods raw will allow natural weathering to turn them grey. After about three years the pieces look like driftwood found on a beach. For hardwood try Locust. This wood is so hard that when I mill it, I typically go through a regular Woodmizer blade on one log. It has so many natural preservatives in it that settlers made their fence posts and rails from them. I read somewhere that Abe Lincoln used to split locust fence rails and posts by hand as a job when he was young. It is quite beautiful, and leaving it raw or just hand-rubbed with a light penetrating oil is all that it is needed.
The design of that table is rad.
This was really excellent information presented so effectively. I especially appreciate the emphasis on outdoor durability and finishes!
Awesome, so glad you enjoyed it
Beautiful design. Also I love how chill this dude is, pretty relaxing compared to the carnival sideshow that is TH-cam
*inserts The Greatest Showman soundtrack *
Very nice . Thanks for sharing. You are a fantastic educator.
The finish came out great! Wonderful project and very informative video!
Another great video Mark. Packed with great info. Thank you for sharing. 👍🏻
I'm a repeat customer. In fact, I recently purchased some African Mahogany as my first big-boy hardwood project. A 3' by 5' Cross for the Church. And it came out nice, if I do say so myself. Next up is the wine rack. I wish you were a YT'er instead of a HW dealer 😁 You have a great way of presenting the information and *clearly* chock full of knowledge. Love your company, love your videos.
Haha! Well we keep making vids because it helps us sell wood 😇😉
Great content and presentation. Wondering why Paulownia did not make the list? Great wood, does not rot and easy to work with.
You should also try Vitex / Molave wood.
its also called as Malayan Teak, Pacific Teak, New Guinea Teak, etc.
its native in south east asia.
Most Indonesian wood workers now mostly working with this wood rather than using Teak, because old teak just getting hard to find the price getting higher.
this also came from same family with Teak.
its durable and dense
1st time watching your video and it was not only informative but also fun and carefree, so subscribed immediately! Thank you for a wonderful video, plus I love that table so much that I'm going to build it.
I have thermowood Ash (thermo essen) on my facade. Which naturally greys completely after a few years. It is a soft wood made suitable for the outdoors.
9:30 - Teak oil isn't from the teak tree. It is just a name for the product similar to Danish oil. It would be a combination of drying oils.
I love the angled cuts on those slats. And as always, thanks for the info on woods!
Agreed! Looks classy!
10 degrees, I watched the video again and it shows the angle set on the saw.
🙏🙏🙏
Another wood to use for outdoor projects is goncalo alves - usually called tigerwood in the US. It is used for decks quite a bit. It's super durable and dense - not as dense as ipe, but nearly so. A deck made from tigerwood will weather and turn gray, but will last on the order of 25 years, or even more, if the end grain is sealed properly. If it is cared for, re-stained every few years, and the end grain kept sealed, it should last several decades. It is really heavy, so if you use it to make outdoor furniture, it isn't going to be easy to move around, but it will last a long, long time and look great. Because it is so dense, many stains will not penetrate the wood. Penofin stain/protectant made for tigerwood works well, and it's just about the only finish I would trust for it. I had bad, bad experiences with other stains on my tigerwood deck.
Love how that table turned out and thanks for the helpful information about good choices for outdoor wood and finishes!
I like Cypress or swamp oak. They're both relatively stable in rain
Great video as always! I would like to see for the more exotic species is a discussion of the reactions that you can develop from the dust and exposure to them. The last teak project I worked on was probably 20 years ago (a gift for my father in law’s boat). What I didn’t realize is that teak is a sensitizer. For me I got a allergic reaction that developed over the course of the time that I was working with the wood. By the time I finished the project I had to wear gloves taped up to a long sleeve shirt and wear a respirator because I was breaking out from the dust. Teak is notorious for this as I found out later. Can you comment on the potential for sensitivities for the other species? Thanks!
Oof ... that sucks ... really lost for words, other than I hope you find a work around that allows you to enjoy this hobby. I learned to focus on other things to ... Squirrel!
That is an awesome design. Always love watching your videos. Can’t wait for the next one. I’ve been watching all your species specials or whatever you call them. If I’m ever in the area I’ll stop by!
Thanks Mark, really nice project!
Gorgeous table Mark!
Here in Souther California the biggest thing is to protect from UV rays damaging everything, we have just had rain for a few days and it’s a really big deal. Lol
Try Pennsylvania Larch. Bug resistant and holds up outside. Amish have been using it a long time.
Roasted oak really looks nice!
spar urethane is a really good coat for outdoor stuff, I made a little ramp from the concrete of the back porch down to the grass for my mom cuz she doesn't handle steps very well. I live in Florida and it's position right underneath the edge of the roof means when it rains it comes down like a waterfall on the ramp and after a year on the grass in the Florida humidity, rain and sun it looks and is as sturdy as the day it finished drying. it's made outta some live oak from a tree I cut down in the woods out back. if I had the money though I would have made it outta Ipe or Brazilian tigerwood for the looks although the live oak looks nice too
I wish Black Locust would get more love. It's another great wood for outdoor projects.
Thank you, great clip full of info.
Thank you 😇
Ever tried marsh water glass approach for outdoor wood furniture ... Sodium silicate, with lavender oil, Tea tree oil, Jojoba oil, Citronella oil, methylated spirits & silicon? I'm told it's a thing down south in the marsh area's.
Awesome Mark brother, great video. I really enjoy the detail in each step you went through. Nicely done, once I get into a better spot financially, I'll be placing an order for sure, and I can't wait. I digress, I really just wanted to say that you're videos are very informative. Had a lot of really great information. Great work, how you went through each step, picking material, picking glue, building, finish, the all the way around video start to finish in under ten min. Awesome my friend. Alright sorry about the novel! Keep it up! Till next time. Take care!
What about Ekki, this wood is rot resistance, very durable and has good resistance to insect attack. It also
takes 50 years to season and is used in new Lock Gates in the UK canal system.
I've had great success building outdoor stuff using Siberian larch.
Here in Sweden larch is very reasonable priced compared to the alternatives.
Finished with outdoor rated tung oil it looks pretty good, but as usual it needs to be reapplied regularly.
If you are actually wanting the best wood for outdoor furniture it wasn't even included on your list. You are looking at Osage Orange (also known as hedge). Granted this is not typically able to be sourced from many lumber yards. However its natural properties have resistance to rot, bugs, mold, etc... Osage orange has a stunning look as well.
Likewise, black Locust
Correction. “The best wood you can actually buy”
Woodworkers Source regrets the error 😎😎
Thanks for this great video! I love the table I might make some myself! If I was in Arizona (one day) I would start today… but I’ll save for spring in NJ… gross here now!
Thank you 😊
As always, a great video with fair presentation of _factual information_ avoiding slant based on your business, or general speculative throwaway opinion. Thank you. I've worked with marine architecture and fittings from ocean cruise ships down to small coastal boats, and yes, Teak really should be stopped from being used. Much the same could be said of Iroko and many others on the list, but that's a whole other conversation. Regrading Titebond II/III. Titebond II is not for direct water contact, and I've always termed it "porch" or for workpieces that see outdoor environmental moisture but not in direct contact. Out of the rain and snow. III is still not entirely waterproof, but works very well with direct water contact. In addition, it's made to be more flexible to allow for wood movement in reaction to environmental moisture. II also, but less so. Here in Europe I always go to the spec sheets, or going by known standards like "D3" glue, etc. I love Owatrol D1 and D2 as finishes....D1 is a penetrating marine oil and D2 is a compatible building finish for marine.
I should probably point out that I would never use Titebond on marine....haha! Epoxies, two-part phenolics, etc. Terrible for health, but just incredible performance as marine adhesives.
Good info! Thanks.
Come on Tristan. Don’t just toss out that Teak and most of the other woods on the list shouldn’t be used. Why ? Give us a list of good woods to use. I know here in the US we have plenty of Red and White Oak
@@RayRay-tw6gv I don't think the average home gamer (which I am also, outside of work!) shouldn't use them, since we aren't really the drivers of unsustainable practice and indiscriminate harvesting to satisfy worldwide demand. The industrial marine end of things I come from (literally big six figures in Teak per month, many cubic metres in large gauges) in cruise ship and super yacht outfitting and that sort of level of high-cash demand definitely is. Any sort of process to reproduce the properties and look of Teak in sustainable materials would be a literal money printer. I've even been involved in projects exploring that (albeit not the ones I think have the highest chances of success, the biochemical end of the game is where that's at) but even then, big indiscriminate money will continue to get real Teak one way or another until the species just fails. Without starting that discussion, think "Rosewood, China, CITES Appendix II debacle" for an example. Just don't get used to it if you do use them, because they're not forever woods. White Oak is a great wood if you do the necessary design work to prevent ingress and pooling, and have a good maintenance schedule. The same goes for common domestics like Larch, etc. Exotics and special imports do create an "eyes bigger than our belly" desire issue that we're just too comfortable with.
I learn so much about wood from your videos Mark thanks as always. No plans? When can I get a hat lol
Woo! We’ve got them available at our website 😎
Super Idee
und Klasse umgesetzt
Thanks!
Where did you bet the table you are working on, or should I say where is there a plan available? Awesome small table data. Thank you for sharing.
great video Mark - Thanks
Cool vid.
Yuppp teak is great but there are about 10+ types of Teak and its not cheap. If its lower grade Teak, its not all that great for the price, its just the Tree name your paying for. Burmese Teak A - heart wood...that's the good stuff, it has a great strong distinct aromatic scent to it. Its also the kind used for Yachts because of its natural oily wax that repels water from the ocean and rain. That grey has a mold to it and needs to be scrubbed off more than people think, its just alot of work. Its tough wood to hurt. Gluing it is tricky.
I got tired of being told alot of furniture was made of " Teak " and it wasn't or it was very low grade Teak. I Have not seen too much Burmese Teak furniture, but there is alot of Indonesian Teak stuff around. Why people Stain it... is stupid.... it hides the natural beauty of it. Once stained...anything can be Teak.
White rustic Oak is also a very good outdoor alternative. White oak is used for wine Barrels, boats and ships and on the USS Constitution ( Old Ironside ), where the cannon balls would bounce off because of the toughness of the Oak.
Teakwood one of the best wood to invest in
Mark........looking at the video, I noticed you were wearing a respirator while handling and applying the wood finish. Were you using something more than just a dust mask? So I'm curious about what safety measures you undertook with that highly volatile stuff? The SDS for the material carries a lot of precautions: avoiding breathing fumes, ventilation, avoiding skin contact, avoiding eye contact, and handling of contaminated clothing. I have two tables built and now am ready to apply finish; thus the question about safety. Thanks.
Acid treated wood (otherwise known as acetylated wood, sold as Accoya) lasts as well as anything
Beautiful table and Thank you for showing how to build. I have a question: Can you use Tung Oil? Thanks
Wow ,,amazing..awasome.!!
How often do you expect to have to refinish the tables and what is involved with that using the oil finish you used? Stripping the old finish first, etc?
I live just down I-10 from your Tucson store in Cochise county. You sold me all the hardwoods to make all of the cabinetry and moldings when building our home a few years ago and I am gearing up to build an outdoor table for my Big Green Egg BBQ grill in the next couple months. My plan was to just use SPAR varnish, but I absolutely HATE working with it! If the option you used is easier and will hold up to the AZ sun at 5000 feet...
Except for the sanding and the UV protector do these tips apply to a shower stool as well?
Great videos. Always enjoy and learn something from them. Kudos!
Thanks for watching👍👍
Great idea 💡 👍 👏
Hey that looks good
Great video. You now have a new subscriber.
I’m making an Adirondack chair out of Spanish and Western Red cedar. I’m only using the Spanish because of the cost of WR. Is this ok? What other wood would you recommend?
I’m going to use a home made combination of Mineral Spirits, Linseed oil and wax, followed by a sealer. I’d like your thoughts on this.
I will seriously consider your recommendations.
Thanks,
Paul
Can you explain the adhesive and fastener choice? Unusual for woodworking but I'm assuming there was a logic to it
What product would be best to seal a "dark red meranti wood" outdoor planter box in a wet climate?
What’s an inexpensive outdoor friendly for chairs?
Spruce is by far the cheapest. It is also by weight the ultimate carbon fiber. Plus in wet areas as the coast of scandinavia, it is the main wood used. And, surprise, surprice, it is outside. As all wood it need dry periods. In tropical climate, soak the end grain in kerosene.
Good looking table!
You’re the best! Thx
Over time when the painted wood contracts and expands will this cause the dried paint to crack?
Have you ever heard or worked with black locust? I was told it's great for exterior use. But I haven't been able to get my hands on any yet.
@@Magoover1 that doesn't sound like a fun type of wood to work with.
Hi. Thanks for doing these useful videos. I have a question - my new entrance door has been made of solid wood, but I need to finish it with nice walnut for outside and white colour for inside. I know you have used Danish Oil for walnut before, but what would be the best finish for exterior side? It won't be exposed to rain or snow, but to hot/cold temperatures.
Hmmm. Roasted oak. I’m going to have to look into this. Did you do a video on that before or no? Your project looks great.
Yep, here ya go: th-cam.com/video/TdJCdcCe-ro/w-d-xo.html
Nice table, why no plans??
For the adventure 😇
What woods are best for boat building?
What about Locust and Hemlock?
Very nice Mark, I have had good luck using Teak oil on my outdoor builds I live in the northeast so our summers are short but I have a bench I built 25+yrs ago & I just re coat it every couple years. My next project is to build 2 outdoor rocking chairs, Do you have any 6/4 or 8/4 stock I only need enough for both curved legs the rest I can use 4/4. Thanks
6/4 and 8/4 yes, in many types of wood but not all
Hola...hermosos acabados que das a la madera...una pregunta y si usara la cera FEED AND WAX DE HOWARD me serviría para exterior?... mi plan es ponerle a una casita que hice para mi perro, ponerle aceite de teka de WATCO y luego podría poner el FEED AND WAX para no tener que gastar en el HOWARD para exteriores?...Muchas gracias!!!!
Iron wood also called Ipe.
If I was going to make a outdoor towel hanger for a couple of friends that just got a new pool installed in their backyard what wood would you recommend for that?
Teak, white oak, iroko, red grandis or afrormosia
You didn't mention acacia wood. There's lots of imported outdoor furniture on the market that use acacia. Much less expensive than most of the other woods. Wikipedia cites two million hectares of commercial plantations have been established.
Black locust is the best outdoor wood of all
That table looks great! Not my style with the angles but great construction, great final color and I love the slats. Thanks for the vid.
One question: was the choice to go with oak purely because you're familiar with it, color, and it's relatively inexpensive or are there some performance benefits over the others you had?
Great question. Honestly I just like the color.
I was told that osage orange a.k.a. hedge trees hart wood is extremely rot resistant. Do you have any information?
Iroko is super sensitizer. I used to get sick every time mill and breath the dust. At least for me. I wouldn’t ever use it again.