The muzzle device and gas tube come off before removal of the barrel nut. doing it like you did at 4:54 is a fantastic way to damage your gas block, which can be averted entirely by doing it in the right order.
Instead of blue, use green 620 loctite on the barrel extension. It is designed for cylindrical slip fits, like the barrel extension. And helps to shore up the movement in the receiver. Not as good as a thermal fit or shimming, but nearly as good. I honestly doubt blue loctite does anything there. Some people use 609, but it is for tighter tolerances like press fits, not slip fits.
Yeah, followed Criterion's how to install a barrel to a T and discovered using the green Loctite afterward. I will say we are at about 2.5K rounds and haven't experienced any problems just yet. but good looking out. I am certainly only an amature builder right now. Thank you!
Oh yeah, you won’t see any problems. Just may not see the benefits of using the appropriate loctite. All that said, the benefits are extremely small. Joe Carlos from the Army Marksmanship Unit has tested and found using shim stock+green loctite or thermal fit will shave about 33% off a group size when using match ammo in a match barrel. And just doing green loctite alone I believe he said gives about 25% off the group size. With normal ammo, one may not see as large percentage improvements because the group was bigger to begin with. Me personally, I find using shims is a pain in the ass, so for my competition guns I use thermal fit receivers like BCM. But the rest of my uppers I just use 620 loctite. th-cam.com/video/pJL-IscH_jo/w-d-xo.html
The screw will center itself in the dimple once you have it lined up. If you want to feel it, screw it in and wiggle it a little as you tighten. You’ll feel it seat.
Also, a piece of spaghetti in the barrel gas port will help you align it. Get a dried spaghetti noodle and place it in the gas port. Mark it and break it at the mark. Slide the gas block on and turn the barrel over and continue sliding the gas block on until the noodle stops it. Check your dimple and then tighten. I took an air hose and blew the noodle out. I blew in the gas tube and it exited the barrel.
Great vid, I have a few Criterion Core barrels including the 13.9”. All are sub MOA builds, including my 12.5” that I take out to 300yrds with no problems. They are my Go To barrels at this point. I use BCM Stripped uppers that are thermo fit to the barrel, as well as lap the receiver and use a bedding compound to ensure the best accuracy as possible I’ve had others try out my builds and they have all purchased Criterion Core barrels after shooting mine. I used the Ripcord Inds. Gas’s Hole on my last build and after the PITA install it actually a great design and supper tight and will not need to pin for it to stay in place.
@@LONEWOLF_LCD how do you remove the barrel if you use the bedding compound? Do you need to heat up the upper and barrel connection before you can remove it?
WAY better. BA is a great brand and is actually owned by Aero. I don’t have any experience with Rosco because of their materials. I only put chrome lined barrels in my guns.
I have 2 Rosco builds. A 12.5 and 18, both 1/7. The 12.5 has a 1/2 full 5 gal bucket worth of rounds through it and shooting 77g IMI groups between .4-.75 inch groups at 100. w a 1-6 razor hd The 18” has 200-300 rounds through it and shoots .5-.8 inch groups w 77g IMI w a PST 3-15 For the money I’m blown away by the accuracy. Looking at the Criterion barrels to match it in accuracy with a chrome line for longevity. My 16” BA is ok.. 1.2-1.5 inch groups with 77g. It’s good, but will always go w Rosco at that price range from here on out.
Nice rifle! I am curious, what buffer weight spring combo are you running? I saw a couple of things on the build process that made me cringe (not trying to talk crap). I am just trying to help out so go watch this video for muzzle device shimming and torque. I think if you mixed match the different shim sizes you might be able to only using 2 or 3 shims instead of all of them. Good luck th-cam.com/video/lmHocET2SUU/w-d-xo.html
Did say like 3 times this wasn’t a gunsmithing vid. Did try this method first and still ended up with all the damn shims. Dunno bud. Thanks for the vid tho.
I can't vouch for the media relationships.of Criterion, but I can vouch for their barrel accuracy. I haven't spent much time shooting for groups aside of finding the ammo brand and load my Core barrel likes. So far at 100 yards, 0.73" using Black Hills MK262 and almost identical feoup using AAC 77 OTM.
@@madride858585 small update. My BCM BCG failed me at a Runenation class. Gas rings were blown after about 1,500 rounds and the bolt didn’t come with an extractor spring O ring. Had to fix it on the fly. Thank god I had an extra bolt.
The muzzle device and gas tube come off before removal of the barrel nut. doing it like you did at 4:54 is a fantastic way to damage your gas block, which can be averted entirely by doing it in the right order.
Criterion is King
GG shout out! Thanks, Marty.
Of course!
Just assembled aero m4e1 with a Geissele taper barrel. I luv it.
Instead of blue, use green 620 loctite on the barrel extension. It is designed for cylindrical slip fits, like the barrel extension. And helps to shore up the movement in the receiver. Not as good as a thermal fit or shimming, but nearly as good. I honestly doubt blue loctite does anything there. Some people use 609, but it is for tighter tolerances like press fits, not slip fits.
Yeah, followed Criterion's how to install a barrel to a T and discovered using the green Loctite afterward. I will say we are at about 2.5K rounds and haven't experienced any problems just yet. but good looking out. I am certainly only an amature builder right now. Thank you!
Oh yeah, you won’t see any problems. Just may not see the benefits of using the appropriate loctite. All that said, the benefits are extremely small. Joe Carlos from the Army Marksmanship Unit has tested and found using shim stock+green loctite or thermal fit will shave about 33% off a group size when using match ammo in a match barrel. And just doing green loctite alone I believe he said gives about 25% off the group size. With normal ammo, one may not see as large percentage improvements because the group was bigger to begin with. Me personally, I find using shims is a pain in the ass, so for my competition guns I use thermal fit receivers like BCM. But the rest of my uppers I just use 620 loctite.
th-cam.com/video/pJL-IscH_jo/w-d-xo.html
The screw will center itself in the dimple once you have it lined up. If you want to feel it, screw it in and wiggle it a little as you tighten. You’ll feel it seat.
Also, a piece of spaghetti in the barrel gas port will help you align it. Get a dried spaghetti noodle and place it in the gas port. Mark it and break it at the mark. Slide the gas block on and turn the barrel over and continue sliding the gas block on until the noodle stops it. Check your dimple and then tighten. I took an air hose and blew the noodle out. I blew in the gas tube and it exited the barrel.
Great vid, I have a few Criterion Core barrels including the 13.9”. All are sub MOA builds, including my 12.5” that I take out to 300yrds with no problems. They are my Go To barrels at this point. I use BCM Stripped uppers that are thermo fit to the barrel, as well as lap the receiver and use a bedding compound to ensure the best accuracy as possible I’ve had others try out my builds and they have all purchased Criterion Core barrels after shooting mine. I used the Ripcord Inds. Gas’s Hole on my last build and after the PITA install it actually a great design and supper tight and will not need to pin for it to stay in place.
Yeah I am loving this barrel. I think next instal I’ll also lap the upper and thermo fit.
What do you use as a bedding compound?
@@tizben loctite 609, it’s a blue sleeve retaining compound
@@LONEWOLF_LCD how do you remove the barrel if you use the bedding compound? Do you need to heat up the upper and barrel connection before you can remove it?
@@tizben sorry took a bit but yes if you need to remove the barrel after bedding it just heat it up a bit and use a wood dowl and tap it out
Use Aeroshell grease on the barrel nut threads. It wont be stuck anymore.
Have you ran steel and or ran it in the cold? How does it fair? Thanks.
Yes and yes. It has done amazing so far.
@@Mtn_Marty Thank you. Would you happen to know the gas port size also?
Man I’m in Loveland! That’s close for me.
What bench vise is that? Looks sweet
Tipton!
Wonder how Criterion barrels run versus Ballistic Advantage and Rosco
WAY better. BA is a great brand and is actually owned by Aero. I don’t have any experience with Rosco because of their materials. I only put chrome lined barrels in my guns.
I have 2 Rosco builds. A 12.5 and 18, both 1/7.
The 12.5 has a 1/2 full 5 gal bucket worth of rounds through it and shooting 77g IMI groups between .4-.75 inch groups at 100. w a 1-6 razor hd
The 18” has 200-300 rounds through it and shoots .5-.8 inch groups w 77g IMI w a PST 3-15
For the money I’m blown away by the accuracy.
Looking at the Criterion barrels to match it in accuracy with a chrome line for longevity.
My 16” BA is ok.. 1.2-1.5 inch groups with 77g. It’s good, but will always go w Rosco at that price range from here on out.
I like the belt man. Who makes the molle sleeve?
Trex arms
Which buffer and spring would you recommend after putting more round through it?
Standard was working fine but I upgraded to a geissele 42 braided buffer spring. And I like it better.
Appreciate it bro! H1 or H2?
@@sleepyoreoszzz5681 still an H1
Vltor a 5 is the best
Would enjoy to see how you painted that rifle, looks very good
There will be a video on how to paint your rifle!
Same.
Im surprised that you were able to build a rifle with that vise.Never thought it would be sturdy enough to torque down a barrel nut.
Honestly, me too. This build has changed a ton since this vid and I’m still using the same set up.
I’m outside Denver. Too far to check out ur range. ☹️
I’m in Denver. Just all depends on your drive.
Nice rifle! I am curious, what buffer weight spring combo are you running? I saw a couple of things on the build process that made me cringe (not trying to talk crap). I am just trying to help out so go watch this video for muzzle device shimming and torque. I think if you mixed match the different shim sizes you might be able to only using 2 or 3 shims instead of all of them. Good luck
th-cam.com/video/lmHocET2SUU/w-d-xo.html
Did say like 3 times this wasn’t a gunsmithing vid. Did try this method first and still ended up with all the damn shims. Dunno bud. Thanks for the vid tho.
Criterion sending out barrels to channels with less than 100k subs I smell Cap
No cap sir. It’s all about who you know these days.
I can't vouch for the media relationships.of Criterion, but I can vouch for their barrel accuracy. I haven't spent much time shooting for groups aside of finding the ammo brand and load my Core barrel likes. So far at 100 yards, 0.73" using Black Hills MK262 and almost identical feoup using AAC 77 OTM.
Makes barrel review, says this is not a gun smithing video. Proceeds to gun smith 95% of the video.
Listen…I’m not exactly a smart man. I was basically saying “this probably isn’t the way to do this…don’t copy me”
Installing a barrel is not gunsmithing.
Why do you need a sling to sight in a rifle?
…so I can run it after I aight it in…
@@Mtn_Marty 10-4 just being a dick. I have the same barrel with the headspaced bcm. Love it.
@@madride858585 small update. My BCM BCG failed me at a Runenation class. Gas rings were blown after about 1,500 rounds and the bolt didn’t come with an extractor spring O ring.
Had to fix it on the fly. Thank god I had an extra bolt.