Low Oil Pressure Issue on GMC Truck Fix | Oil PSI Sensor Screen Replacement | P0011 P0521 DTC
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ธ.ค. 2022
- In Part 2 we tackle fixing the cause of sudden oil pressure loss on the 2011 Yukon Denali Hybrid. A $5 sensor screen is what's between you and a catastrophic failure! This is a common issue on GM's Active Fuel Management/Displacement on Demand engines. In this video we replace the oil pressure sensor screen and finish up the new brake pad/rotor bedding in process.
Part 1: Brake job and initial occurrence of oil pressure drop • 2011 Yukon Denali Hybr...
GMC Low Oil Pressure Stop Engine
Chevy low oil pressure
Oil pressure gauge problem
Clogged oil pressure sensor screen - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Removal of some of sound barrier seems like a great idea, now I know that. I had declined to try this job when we had a 2005 Yukon with a Driver Information Center warning, but its oil pressure gauge still worked fine.
One should know that I watched quite a few TH-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.
Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).
So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.
I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!
So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.
Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic.
Nice video bud! Cheers!
Good thing you still had oil pressure and it was just the sensor
For sure, but if the screen is clogged it will also choke off the oil from the top end of the motor. Best thing to do is shut it down and clean/replace the filter and not drive it when the gauge drops below 10-20PSI!
I pulled the intake when I replaced my sensors, mostly because I did the vlom block off too. but man, I wish I would have thought to remove that bracket while I was there. it's always in the way of everything.
you probably said in the other video. what brakes did you do with? I think mine has 135k on what looks like the oem brakes. kinda wild.
Agree!!
Sorry, I missed you had asked about the brakes until now…I went with ACDelco black hat Gold rotors abd Wagner OEX pads. Great performance a year later!
Was the lifters making a clicking sound
@HA-gs7tq Thankfully no, I shut it down quick enough the first time and would turn it off every time the psi dropped on the way home
Remember dear
From 2003 to 2008 models, the item number differs from 2009 to 2013
Thanks, I came out to start mine 6.2l Yukon and its knocking like crazy, all fluids are full no engine light BUT oil pressure is very low just below 40. What could it be. it only has 88,000 and the oil is just as clean as when I bought it and never had to add oil to it. Whats your thoughts?
Hmmm…40 PSI isnt so bad for a warm idle, but cold that seems a little low (still shouldn’t be an issue at that PSI). I see anywhere from 60-75PSI on cold starts with both my 150k mile 6.0L and 86k 6.2L. If I get below 20 on any DOD/AFM engine I go on high alert and shut it down if it inches lower to 15. Might be worth checking your sensor screen because it can be somewhat intermittent…though I’ve heard it doesn’t take much at low oil PSI (below 15 IMO) to collapse a lifter or bend a pushrod. Does the noise go away after warming up?
The bad thing about these screens is when they clog they starve the top end of oil!
@@AdamPE21 No, when I accelerate it gets louder
Are you seeing any flakes in the oil or anything? Seems odd it would start doing this without losing pressure. I wonder if it lost pressure in the past and something now finally broke
Mines is doing the same did you find out what it was???
I had to get the motor swapped, thank goodness it was under Carmax warranty
@@abeldontworryaboutt3256
I changed sensor and filter still get check engine light sometimes P0521
Interesting, I wonder if you have a wiring issue or the oil pressure itself is critically low. Do you have an oil psi sensor on the dash?
What is the shield in the way ? Can it be removed?
I believe it’s called the fuel injection rail stop bracket (L shaped with a lollipop on the end)…my sensor clogging issue was happening frequently enough I left it off, but I have to believe it’s there for support if the engine shifts in any way, or maybe to protect fuel rail during vehicle assembly.
Oddly enough (knock on wood), I have not had this issue happen since this video. Switched back to 5w-30 Mobil 1 and use an ACDelco PF63 (larger filter with lower psi bypass) with this truck now.
@@AdamPE21 the black shield with the hole in it that you can see the sensor through?
@markcheatwood5106 The two things you have to remove to get at the sensor easiest are the engine cover (snapped in on top) and the fuel injection rail stop metal bracket. Your configuration might be a little different, once you get those two things out of the way you’ll be able to get at the sensor connector to disconnect and put the special socket on it
@@AdamPE21 are you talking about the plastic shield by the sensor? I thought about cutting it out but if it can be removed I'll remove it
@markbauer9393 I don’t remember seeing a shield there other than the cowl cover on top and the metal lollipop bracket