I just bought a 55 westerner, well it was a 55 westerner lol! It is a pile and I'm doing a frame up restoration, it's my first vintage trailer and am so excited! Thank you for your videos they will come in handy helping me along the way!
A couple of years ago, I bought a 2000 Homemade Trailer (this is how it is registered) that has a 50s-early 60s Layton body on top of it. The brothers from whom I purchased it basically made a very sturdy, very rustic interior with 1"x6" planks for hunting. I'm taking it down a little at a time to get the soaking-wet paneling & insulation out, then will put some of it back for stability while I remove the skin. Not trying to restore it, but if it's original and I can use it, I will. Have fun!
Thanks Larry....I will just seal the roof right now, in the hopes my buggered arm and neck will heal. Unfortunately, the new trailer cover 'caught' a snag on the problem area of the roof that caused the leak in the shower area this last winter. I will just stop the minor leak at this point. Thank you Larry for helping all of us out! I will. Donate when the financial timing is right ;-)
You won't be able to get a roof with no seams in anything other than .040 inch aluminum and that stuff is very hard to bend. There is no reason to use it. The seams do not leak unless badly damaged. Go watch this video on how an aluminum roof is made. th-cam.com/video/3cX8rt7gyH4/w-d-xo.html
It is an older camper and I'm trying to find the year. It has 2x2 framing all around and the metal is attached just on the sides like you are doing in these videos, which are great by the way, so the metal roof just sits on top. I am wanting to cover it with seamless aluminum once I repair all the rotten wood. I think I will deck the roof with plywood then glue the seamless aluminum to it. I'm not that concerned with being original. Any tips for this kind of a re-do? Thanks for your feed back, and Love your videos....
+eddielehman1 You might like my website better than trying to follow here. All my videos are listed there and much easier to find what you need. I've never covered any of my trailers with plywood so I have no idea how it would work. Glad you like the videos though. I'm not an expert and my knowledge is limited to just these types of trailers. Let me know how it turns out though. My email addy is on my website and much easier to ask questions that way. Good luck with your project.
Hemet Valley does not appear to carry this particular material anymore. All I can find on there is corrugated stuff. Bummer! I'm looking for something with which to replace the rusted-out roof on a Dodge W400 ambulance body and this may have done the trick. Guess I'll keep on looking...
I was wondering if it's necessary to add that plastic (vapor barrier?) before installing my new roof (68 Shasta Starflyte) I replaced the fiberglass insulation with foamboard insulation and I'm about ready to install my new roof (which arrived today!!) Your video was very helpful!
I'm contemplating the same. I'm thinking yea to protect the wood frame, and nay because I'm insulating with sheet Armaflex which I would likely glue to the aluminum in between the rafters & studs. Decisions, decisions
Have been working on a blues-y, jazz-y tune called Jalousie Windows Make Me Happy. If Neil Young can write a song about his car, I can write one about my canned-ham camper, dammit!
@@mobiltec Good, because I spent most of last night removing some crappy moulding on what I suspect was a jalousie door window that now contains a sheet of plexiglas. Yes, they are a security risk, but said camper lives on a friend's land and the door is never locked unless I'm working inside
I'm about to install a roof on a vintage trailer, but I also need to install the sidings. Maybe a dumb question, but what's the right order? Siding first, and then roof edge goes on top, or roof first, and then siding goes on top of the roof flap? I'm also not sure if I should put anything on top of the ceiling before putting the roof back, besides the insulation that goes between the trusses. What are good steps to weatherproof? Would a layer of rubber roof coating on the ceiling make any sense? I saw that applying a strip of Eternabond on all the roof edges by the wall may be good to prevent any leaks there, before the roof goes on. Any advice on the right sequence to put the roof and wall back with proper weatherstripping would be so appreciated!
You need to watch all my roofing and siding videos. Go to my website and they are all listed in order of build. That will answer all your questions. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
+mobiltec is it ok to install new metal onto the existing roof of my '69 Shasta Loflyte? I only have one problem-area, but at the same time it would be nice to make it look fresh. And I wouldn't want to go all the way to the Pittsburgh locks. Is this possible? Many thanks for any replies
Not really. You're going to have a huge gap that the J Rail has to cover and it will leak there. The system just doesn't work that way. It's not hard at all to remove the old metal. You need to see under there any how and fix what ever is rotten. Watch a bunch of my videos. Watch the entire 57 Westerner Build series. It's on my website easy to find. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
Would there be any benefit to ordering the material even longer - and just bringing it down to the existing panel? Or do you need to lock in the ends in a "Z" channel?
As you will see in future videos of this trailer, once you see the roof finished I will be putting new metal on the front too. That will come up the window to meet up with that S lock that's there now and I will carve out the bottom of the window with the router. Most of the time you have an S lock or Pittsburg Lock at the top and the bottom of the front and rear window and that is in order to conserve on materials from a manufacturing point of view. A 4 foot piece will now fit on the front and cover it all right up to the bottom of where the roof is now.
I need to replace my metal roof on my camper, The existing roof needs to be removed, should I deck the roof with plywood and then glue down new aluminum roofing?
+eddielehman1 Rebuild your old roof framing and paneling just like it was built at the factory if it needs it. I really can't help you without seeing what you are working with. I restore 1950s and 1960 campers. Nothing else. I have no idea how your camper was built.
@@mobiltec I hear ya, I'm taking a hybrid approach with my Layton, as it has already been redone to suit the previous owners, I've been given materials that would install differently than it was originally built, but there's enough original stuff here to take it slow & restore the stuff I like (such as the linoleum in the banquette, tag light/mount, badges, etc). So it's both a resto and a mod, but it only has to please me, and my cat
Rudy Hernandez Now I use one inch webbing and it can be found easily on line by googling "one inch tubular webbing"... Go watch my latest video. It's not listed on the website as of yet. It's all about strapping the roof material to the trailer.
First things first: I only gave $800 for my hormel, and the appliances & other goodies in it would cost that much, and I didn't hafta purchase a different vehicle with which to tow it, so there's that. I started on the inside, one rainy night, pulling down some of the wet insulation and doubled-up paneling, just to see what I had. The inside of the aluminum skin is a gorgeous turquoise color, except for a few lovely butter-yellow panels. What would you expect to find, finish-wise, under the self-leveler and flat white exterior latex paint someone slapped on it? I'm assuming the skin is made this way so that manufacturers could do a two-tone exterior. Bought some aircraft paint remover, so I may be fixing to answer my own question. Maybe I'll make a vid of this with my phone: If I was better at editing, would have already done so. TIA, and love your videos
+Jon “the squirrel” Clark Hi Jon... If you go to my website you will see a link in my links section for Hemet Valley RV Siding. And I have all my videos listed there from full restores to handy tips. Everything you want to know is there.
I just bought a 55 westerner, well it was a 55 westerner lol! It is a pile and I'm doing a frame up restoration, it's my first vintage trailer and am so excited! Thank you for your videos they will come in handy helping me along the way!
A couple of years ago, I bought a 2000 Homemade Trailer (this is how it is registered) that has a 50s-early 60s Layton body on top of it. The brothers from whom I purchased it basically made a very sturdy, very rustic interior with 1"x6" planks for hunting. I'm taking it down a little at a time to get the soaking-wet paneling & insulation out, then will put some of it back for stability while I remove the skin. Not trying to restore it, but if it's original and I can use it, I will. Have fun!
Thanks Larry....I will just seal the roof right now, in the hopes my buggered arm and neck will heal. Unfortunately, the new trailer cover 'caught' a snag on the problem area of the roof that caused the leak in the shower area this last winter. I will just stop the minor leak at this point. Thank you Larry for helping all of us out! I will. Donate when the financial timing is right ;-)
You're welcome sir.
our 1954 18' Aljoa has like 3 seams in roof . if replacing it should we just do one solid piece with no seams?
You won't be able to get a roof with no seams in anything other than .040 inch aluminum and that stuff is very hard to bend. There is no reason to use it. The seams do not leak unless badly damaged. Go watch this video on how an aluminum roof is made. th-cam.com/video/3cX8rt7gyH4/w-d-xo.html
why did u replace the roof on the outside
Because the old one leaked. Watch the entire series.
It is an older camper and I'm trying to find the year. It has 2x2 framing all around and the metal is attached just on the sides like you are doing in these videos, which are great by the way, so the metal roof just sits on top. I am wanting to cover it with seamless aluminum once I repair all the rotten wood. I think I will deck the roof with plywood then glue the seamless aluminum to it. I'm not that concerned with being original. Any tips for this kind of a re-do? Thanks for your feed back, and Love your videos....
+eddielehman1 You might like my website better than trying to follow here. All my videos are listed there and much easier to find what you need. I've never covered any of my trailers with plywood so I have no idea how it would work. Glad you like the videos though. I'm not an expert and my knowledge is limited to just these types of trailers. Let me know how it turns out though. My email addy is on my website and much easier to ask questions that way. Good luck with your project.
Hemet Valley does not appear to carry this particular material anymore. All I can find on there is corrugated stuff. Bummer! I'm looking for something with which to replace the rusted-out roof on a Dodge W400 ambulance body and this may have done the trick. Guess I'll keep on looking...
I was wondering if it's necessary to add that plastic (vapor barrier?) before installing my new roof (68 Shasta Starflyte) I replaced the fiberglass insulation with foamboard insulation and I'm about ready to install my new roof (which arrived today!!) Your video was very helpful!
I'm contemplating the same. I'm thinking yea to protect the wood frame, and nay because I'm insulating with sheet Armaflex which I would likely glue to the aluminum in between the rafters & studs. Decisions, decisions
Where do you buy your metal roofs?
Hemet Valley RV and Siding. They ship. There is a link on my website in the Canned Ham Links section. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
Have been working on a blues-y, jazz-y tune called Jalousie Windows Make Me Happy. If Neil Young can write a song about his car, I can write one about my canned-ham camper, dammit!
I have videos on restoring Jalousie windows... Check out my website. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
@@mobiltec Good, because I spent most of last night removing some crappy moulding on what I suspect was a jalousie door window that now contains a sheet of plexiglas. Yes, they are a security risk, but said camper lives on a friend's land and the door is never locked unless I'm working inside
I'm about to install a roof on a vintage trailer, but I also need to install the sidings. Maybe a dumb question, but what's the right order? Siding first, and then roof edge goes on top, or roof first, and then siding goes on top of the roof flap? I'm also not sure if I should put anything on top of the ceiling before putting the roof back, besides the insulation that goes between the trusses. What are good steps to weatherproof? Would a layer of rubber roof coating on the ceiling make any sense? I saw that applying a strip of Eternabond on all the roof edges by the wall may be good to prevent any leaks there, before the roof goes on. Any advice on the right sequence to put the roof and wall back with proper weatherstripping would be so appreciated!
You need to watch all my roofing and siding videos. Go to my website and they are all listed in order of build. That will answer all your questions. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
+mobiltec is it ok to install new metal onto the existing roof of my '69 Shasta Loflyte? I only have one problem-area, but at the same time it would be nice to make it look fresh. And I wouldn't want to go all the way to the Pittsburgh locks. Is this possible? Many thanks for any replies
Not really. You're going to have a huge gap that the J Rail has to cover and it will leak there. The system just doesn't work that way. It's not hard at all to remove the old metal. You need to see under there any how and fix what ever is rotten. Watch a bunch of my videos. Watch the entire 57 Westerner Build series. It's on my website easy to find. www.cannedhamtrailers.com
Would there be any benefit to ordering the material even longer - and just bringing it down to the existing panel? Or do you need to lock in the ends in a "Z" channel?
As you will see in future videos of this trailer, once you see the roof finished I will be putting new metal on the front too. That will come up the window to meet up with that S lock that's there now and I will carve out the bottom of the window with the router. Most of the time you have an S lock or Pittsburg Lock at the top and the bottom of the front and rear window and that is in order to conserve on materials from a manufacturing point of view. A 4 foot piece will now fit on the front and cover it all right up to the bottom of where the roof is now.
I need to replace my metal roof on my camper, The existing roof needs to be removed, should I deck the roof with plywood and then glue down new aluminum roofing?
+eddielehman1 Rebuild your old roof framing and paneling just like it was built at the factory if it needs it. I really can't help you without seeing what you are working with. I restore 1950s and 1960 campers. Nothing else. I have no idea how your camper was built.
@@mobiltec I hear ya, I'm taking a hybrid approach with my Layton, as it has already been redone to suit the previous owners, I've been given materials that would install differently than it was originally built, but there's enough original stuff here to take it slow & restore the stuff I like (such as the linoleum in the banquette, tag light/mount, badges, etc). So it's both a resto and a mod, but it only has to please me, and my cat
Where did you find your 1/2" webbing? Man I'm leaning a lot watch ing your videos Thanks...
Rudy Hernandez Now I use one inch webbing and it can be found easily on line by googling "one inch tubular webbing"... Go watch my latest video. It's not listed on the website as of yet. It's all about strapping the roof material to the trailer.
You would have made a pretty good Cowboy Larry!
Gosh what a horrible thing to say to someone!
There's a Toby Keith song in that!
What the heck is that loud humming?
That's my helper sanding the inside of a trailer.
@@mobiltec Alas, my helper has four legs. He does help clean the dishes and keeps the place rodent-free, though :-)
First things first: I only gave $800 for my hormel, and the appliances & other goodies in it would cost that much, and I didn't hafta purchase a different vehicle with which to tow it, so there's that. I started on the inside, one rainy night, pulling down some of the wet insulation and doubled-up paneling, just to see what I had. The inside of the aluminum skin is a gorgeous turquoise color, except for a few lovely butter-yellow panels. What would you expect to find, finish-wise, under the self-leveler and flat white exterior latex paint someone slapped on it? I'm assuming the skin is made this way so that manufacturers could do a two-tone exterior. Bought some aircraft paint remover, so I may be fixing to answer my own question. Maybe I'll make a vid of this with my phone: If I was better at editing, would have already done so. TIA, and love your videos
where did you get you material iv been looking online and cant really find it
+Jon “the squirrel” Clark Hi Jon... If you go to my website you will see a link in my links section for Hemet Valley RV Siding. And I have all my videos listed there from full restores to handy tips. Everything you want to know is there.
THANK YOU!
YOU'RE WELCOME!