If you need to replace this motor . Buy the motor by Vevor, my1020d it has an internal fan. I drilled the holes from the inside out . They are smaller then the ones you drilled. But I'm running the 48v 2000w motor kit at 60v and after riding you can still touch the motor.
The 72v motors don't have room for fans. Armature is too large. 48v will be much less powerful. The KUNRAY model is better by far than the cheaper models like vevor and boma.
I thought the same... they aren't. Weigh them. the Kunrays perform much better and are a better product. This is coming form vendors adn close friends that sell the product.
I'd love to see an update video or comment on how these upgrades are performing for you. I just got my motor recently and i'm debating weather or not to do some of these myself. I'd been thinking about the vent holes in particular. How are they going for you?
my thoughts exactly, i have one of these motors, i see a lot of people using 3000 watt controllers, i was wondering i see 5000 watt controllers and i think some 9000 watt controllers on different sites, i was wondering if those could be used on these motors?
If you have time and money take 2 of those motors and chain link them together. Put both motors in a custom sealed aluminum box filled with synthetic oil. Have fins on the outside. If you fancy install a pump to cycle the oil through a cooler.
Some thermal paste would help a lot with that heatsink, it’s pretty loose fit. Air gaps are not your friend. Great motor for the price though. Would be great for a riding mower conversion.
These are notabley bullet proof and i think your problem with burning motors out to heat could be installing new bearings without lubricant, and cleaning with alcohol and other lubricants which will caise excess heat buildup.
I cant confirm that the 72 volt goes bad quickly but I have heard they have smaller fan to fit more inside the housing. Just from experience I run my "1800 watt" 48 volt version at 64 volts 40 amps and it doesnt get much hotter under load at full power at all for me in case that makes it easier for you
Don't cut the threads off before putting them on they will strip out the inserts. Also don't countersink to far, no more then halfway. I just made these mistakes waiting on new motor.
Those my1020 motors don't pair well with sine wave controllers. I tried sabvoton and kelly, both of which work very well with other bldc motors but not the my1020 . Also if you run these above 8-9kw the performance drops permanently and stresses the rest of the system. I reckon anywhere over 120amps will definitely kill that motor. Qs motors do a motor the same dimensions (qs90) that pairs well with sine wave controllers and can handle 12kw for short bursts. A friend ran his at 12kw (80v150a) for a full minute (towing test) and the temp gun showed 73 degrees celsius. Just a thought. Maybe in the long run it'll save you some money.
I have two of these and want to run them at 5kw each, 150v or more 50a limit, would they hold up? Ideally i want 160v so i can run stupid high rpms and reduce to get silly torque, all this for a 1.3 ton hybrid electric car , the 1.7 td engine stays possibly with a hoverboard wheel generator to load batteries just af idle
@@clownbooface2624 Sorry for late reply. For a hybrid lightweight car, they should be OK. Personally I'd use a bigger motor run slower because there's other parts, like bearings, gearing, etc that won't handle the rpms. I also suspect that the motors won't last very long under those conditions. I'm not an engineer, so maybe look for videos where people have massively overvolted their motors, or gradually increase the power, measuring heat of the motor along the way. Hope this helps.
@@nissanrazbor7949 Yes it will easily handle that on regular basis easily. These motors are conservatively rated. It can handle that and more, continuously with no problems.
@@colinriches1519 I want to make a light motorcycle. There are only 2 light and cheap motors: my1020 and qs90. My1020 is very cheap, it doesn’t hurt to drill it, if you install a fan, it will withstand 3 kW. But it will become full of holes and debris will get into it. Maybe me buy a qs90, at least no debris will get into it + a sinus controller. Its declared power is only 1 kW. If you apply 3 kW to it for 20 minutes, won't it burn out?
While I 100% appreciate the incalculable value of developmental growth… for the price, it may be a case of “buy it nice or buy it twice.” I ordered the standard MY1020 kit twice, only to cancel those sales, and buy the 5000 watt Electro and Company kit; which fortifies the internals of the motor (they call it the MY1020+) with thicker wires and a larger shaft (insert your own joke here… hehehe… insert). The kit comes with a 200A Kelly Controller and everything is “no brained” for easy installation. Not an advertisement. Heck mine is still in the mail; but I have wasted just as much time as I have money “researching,” trying to get the best on the cheap when I could have valued myself and quality over savings. It’s ultimately cheaper in the long run to do what you want from the get go.
I appreciate your opinion but I have a story of my own lol me and my brother both bought mx650s at the same time I decided to build mine from scratch and he bought the electro and co kit after waiting over 2 months and going back and forth with Austin we finally received his kit , right off the bat his battery was half my size I have a 25ah and his kit came with the “20ah” at the time they now sell there top kit with a 25ah , on our first ride together he ran out at 18 miles and had to be picked up I went 31 , on our second ride his controller was shutting off and making beeping sounds , it was over heating and we had relocate the controller to a cooler location , since then it has been fine , he tops out at 40mph and I top out at 46 flat and I’m 40 more lbs then him , and he still has not gone over 18 miles , so I wouldn’t say E&C is “hassle free” is it easier ? Yes but at cost of nearly double mine and half the range and a very long wait time that I keep hearing about from multiple people I wouldn’t recommend it but hey that’s just my experience hopfully you don’t have a similar one !
@@voltmasterp8470 I would like to take one of the electro and co motors apart and see the internals compare to a Vevor 72v 3000w motor . I think the kelly controller is awesome and if I kill my controller I will pick one up . But they use alot of power . I'm running my Vevor 48v 2000w motor kit at 60v and have had no issues . I shunt modied one and it did 45 but it had to much torque.
@@voltmasterp8470 That’s a fantastic response. Thanks for sharing that story. Without knowing, but hearing the issues you have had, it sounds like you might have had the Version 1.0 kit. They’ve since added more heat sinks to the controller, and maybe modified the motor; certainly in service to fixing some of the directly related concerns you had. Time will only tell. The cool part is that it seems like E&C cares about their customers, and should I have issues, they’ll do right by it. I ordered my kit on the 1st of May, and got word it shipped yesterday or the day before; so I was either lucky, or they’re picking up a bit of steam. In terms of batteries, I have gifted curse: 72v, 40ah triangle of doom. It might be too big, but if not, it’ll serve me well. I’m also working on doing a hot swappable Lawn mower battery setup; which would be great, as I can swap them out along the ride. We’ll see. I’ll certainly share my experience. I definitely appreciate your perspective and (larger body of experience) on this, and am only made better with the collective knowledge we bring to one another. Thanks again!
@@Nohoze Thank you for that !! Please keep me posted and get some vids and pics of your build would love to see it !! your officially addicted lol welcome to the club !! Goodluck 💪🏻
Estan excelentes todas esas mejoras (yo aun no tengo todo lo necesario pero estoy en ese camino con mi MX650), tengo dos dudas a ver si me puedes/pueden ayudar: 1) Con que se pega o asegura el heat sink al motor? 2) Vale la pena poner una malla de metal o plastico por dentro o por fuera de la tapa del motor para evitar en la medida de lo posible entre tierra por lo agujeros mas grandes? Saludos! All these improvements are excellent (I haven't all the necessary yet but I'm on that path with my MX650), I have two questions to see if you can help me: 1) How stick or secure the heat sink to the engine? 2) Is it worth putting a metal or plastic mesh inside or outside the engine cover to avoid as much as possible the dirt due to larger holes? Best regards!
Hey man if this motor blows out I whould say go and buy an electro and company motor their alot more reliable it is a bit more on the pricy side tho but it will last a lot longer
It’s still going strong and they all get The motors from China , my brother bought there kit and I compared them side by side , they have slightly bigger wire recently but trust me when I say there not worth it
im honestly surprised how many motors you have gone through haha i still have the same motors i bought may 2021 and i never did the air flow or bearing upgrades haha
@@voltmasterp8470 haha you might be, my top speed is 45 but im using T8F chain and 54t rear sprocket and the stock motor sprocket these motors come with, but ive never gone dirt riding or climing hills very much, only bike trails and street riding.
@@noce1071 first one I got was the kit from kunray on Amazon, the second one was a no brand one with 80amp controller from eBay, I’m pretty sure they are all made in one factory but vevor and kunray are definitely the two names that we hear/see
Whoa, did you say you had stock razor gearing on this bike when this video was made? 11/80 ? With 11/80 I can’t do better than 32. 13/80 gets me to just over 35. I’m 170lbs. 72v with stock kunray / vevor controller. 72v25Ah btr battery.
I notcied a thing. The lower rated motors has a fan in then to push air thriugh it and cool it down. But, this model that is stronger doesn't. Of course you blow them, they arent cooled. In the 48v videos on YT you see them all having fans built in, but these does not. To me that just cant work becuse of over heating.
Damn. Im impressed! That thing is fast. What kind of controller and where did you buy the motor from? Are the kunray ones off Amazon good? Building a 72v razor right now. I think I blew the first controller
Ayo i made a bike with exactly that motor and i've been riding that since 2021. No problem whatsoever, nothing blew up. Rn i want to do the shunt mod on my controller. The only problem with this setup is that the motor is getting hot when i'm riding on full throttle more then 5 minutes in temperatures over 25°C
When you place the heat sink you should put the high temp silicone heatsink adhesive between. the fins and the motor. Last I would put a high velocity cooling fan blowing into my drilled out holes. I am fixing to make the first 48 volt ShopSmith with one of these. Then a 2x72 knfe m grinder too. Way cheap than buying 3 phase eclectic motor dn mm hg ggghggggggg
@VoltMasterP do you know where to get that round spring that goes in the end of the motor cover. Mine didn't even have one when I opened it and it rattles when I take off. I am sure that's why.
Brillaint video thanks for sharing, do you think this motor would work well in a 130kg quad bike? Currently has a 1500w 60v motor and it does have a decent amount of torque and a top end of about 45 kph what would the difference be using this motor thanks
Is it possible to over volt the motor to say use a 21s battery pack? Or even a 22s? I am hoping to max the motor on an outboard conversion and I want to push it to the max
Did that heat sink and holes do the trick to not frying the motor again? I installed one of these 3000w 72v stock motors on my drift trike at 60v and it overheated, puffed smoke and stopped working in the first hour of riding. Has anyone done rewinding on these motors? Would the 48v 2000w my1020 motor handle the 60v better than the 72v version? Seems like the 72v version would be better as it can handle more amps. What motor to buy now?
They definitely helped a lot but what really did it was the 2 fans ! Check out my other video of the fans ! No problems since and it’s been hot in socal!! I have a full parts list video and my motor is on it with link !
Nice bike was jus wondering what controller are you using or how are you pushing more amps mine only clocks out at 42 11t front sprocket and 54t back sprocket #25chain
Nice, how big of a rear wheel are you running on your setup? Thinking of running a Vevor 3000w 72v 11or 9 tooth to 53 tooth sprocket bolted to disc mounts on rear wheel on my Kona Ute running 29x2.3" tires.. Planning on using the motor to supplement my energy and regenerate for braking.. wondered if it would be underpowered to spin a 29" wheel with that ratio, or it would it be enough? Input appreciated. I'm use to pedaling, but would dig the extra juice and the regen. Thanks!)
@@justinlester88 I would recommend a better engine I tried every thing to keep these motors from over heating and blew 6 of them , electro and co has a good one $299 and the sotion fw11 is getting some good reviews , I’ll be doing a update video on the yellow bike stay tuned with the fw11
Can you please tell me where can I buy battery because I looked every where there five and up and does the brushless motor have to match the voltage and wattage of the battery
Thank you !! Stock gearing and I got one more MPH on this motor lol seems more torquey on the bottom end tho , mods are more for reliability but smoother bearings clean motor and keeping cool should delivery the best performance aswell !
I've got a my1020 motor with a gearbox, I want to get rid of it. Do you know where to get the motor cap (like the ones you drill) to assemble it without the reduction?
Would it be fine if I run a 72v 3000w kit with 48v 20ah battery? That way if I ever want to upgrade to a 72v battery later, I don’t have change out the motor and controller.
Did you have any trouble when you put the motor back together? I did the same upgrade (drilled holes and replaced bearings) and when I put it all together the motor doesn't turn smooth, it catches. I think this is due to the bearings because the ones I took off were very tight on the shaft and the penguin ones are able to be pulled off much easier. Just wondering if you experienced any issues lack this, anything helps I'm at a loss at the moment.
I’ve replace 6 motors with those bearings and havnt had one issue , have you tried taking it back apart ? , trying running the motor just to confirm it’s bound up .
I'm trying to do this with the 2000w version of the motor. I can't get the bearings to come off. Also do you think it would be possible to put thicker power wires running in to the motor?
@@robertindabuilding2876 they do get hot if you run too much power. Also larger wires will make the motor run more efficient. I found a way to order the motor directly from the manufacturer with 6mm phase wires and a temperature sensor. I have more power motors at this point, but I want to see the max that I can get out of an my1020 motor.
I'm looking for a 60v 3000w controller I can find the motor but not the controller to suit would you or anyone know where I can find one I'm upgrading my 2000w 60v evo scooter atm but the best I can find is a 2500w 60v setup
It’s 2 different motors the 500 is a 2 wire brushed motor the silver 1020 motors like in my video are a 3 wire brushless motor so no interchanging controllers
is it worth is to use a higher amperage controller (I'm using a 220a kelly controller) because the motor specs says that it is 45a max, so can it actually draw more?
On average you don’t want to push these motors past 80 amps they will blow , you need a fan setup forsure ! I just upgraded to the electro and co replacement motor they just came out with .
@@dustinday3951 I’ve burnt all mine up but never recorded the temp , I would pour water over mine to cool down on a ride they just get to hot , I’ve moved on to bigger motors QS motors and Sotion motors can handle all the power and heat no problem !
I have the qs138 and I can say that this motor doesn’t even compare if this motor makes 5 hp for example the qs138 makes 30hp , the 165 is right in the middle
So far so good done about 6 rides at 20-30 miles with no problem , but I still have to take breaks or she gets to hot but I’m 220lbs and it’s a small Motor
@@jackvucreative yeah it gets into the 100s but mostly 90s In Summer I’m in Ventura county pretty close to the beach so we get that coolness from the ocean
@voltmasterp i was planning on building an ebike with a custom box made out of hdpe and polycarbonate. Your tips and tricks will help me a lot in the long run. I live in the same area as you too. Once the bikes ready we should meet up🤙🏽
something tells me all these motors are ALL the same just different controllers? i don't thing there is a deference between a 1800 watt and a 3000 watt motors. that would be more work for china to produce, has anyone seen a deference between motor kits other then controllers? what are the physical deference's other then the BS stickers they slap on and charge more for?
The 1800 has an internal fan and and is more narrow to accommodate the fan , the “3000” I’ve never seen a internal fan , but I agree with you they do all look and perform basically the same !
@@voltmasterp8470 I would love to see a video on someone doing a side by side tear down of the two or three different motors and see if one has more copper windings and is heavier? would help when buying just the motor, if all the same one could just buy the cheapest option out there. maybe even do a bench test!
I've opened the 1800w, 2000w,2500w, and the 3000w. The lower wattage ones have a smaller magnet stack and has enough room for a fan inside. All the cases are the same size. 3000w magnets fill up 70%-80% of the can while the 1800w magnets only fill up maybe 50% of the can
Bad video people don’t watch this. Not sure but I think he works for the electric motor company and he wants to sell motors because this guy is brutal on this 1020. He destroys it before install.
I followed the link in Amazon, and it says that bearings were designed in Florida. Designed only. Its probably made in China. Just buy bearings made in Japan. Literaly it must be written Japan on bearing.
@@paper9570 I actually just ordered one of those heatsinks and the diameter is slightly smaller than the motor and leaves an air gap in the middle of the heatsink. If I use that heatsink I’ll be sure to put something to aid in the heat transfer like a thermal pad or paste. Just wondering what others do.
If you need to replace this motor . Buy the motor by Vevor, my1020d it has an internal fan. I drilled the holes from the inside out . They are smaller then the ones you drilled. But I'm running the 48v 2000w motor kit at 60v and after riding you can still touch the motor.
The 72v motors don't have room for fans. Armature is too large. 48v will be much less powerful. The KUNRAY model is better by far than the cheaper models like vevor and boma.
@@AdamOpheim lmfao they all come from the same production plant my man
I thought the same... they aren't. Weigh them. the Kunrays perform much better and are a better product. This is coming form vendors adn close friends that sell the product.
@@AdamOpheim is that all of the motors side by side or just the 72v motors
noce - how fast?
I'd love to see an update video or comment on how these upgrades are performing for you. I just got my motor recently and i'm debating weather or not to do some of these myself. I'd been thinking about the vent holes in particular. How are they going for you?
Very cool video i once got one of these motors but never got around to use em.
I'd smear some thermal paste under that heatsink !
my thoughts exactly, i have one of these motors, i see a lot of people using 3000 watt controllers, i was wondering i see 5000 watt controllers and i think some 9000 watt controllers on different sites, i was wondering if those could be used on these motors?
When you put a heat sink onto an item you use a special white silicone glue to bond thet can f ftwotogether
If you have time and money take 2 of those motors and chain link them together. Put both motors in a custom sealed aluminum box filled with synthetic oil. Have fins on the outside. If you fancy install a pump to cycle the oil through a cooler.
Is it avilable on market or diy? Austin Blake has the same single motor with water cooling
@@stefankristanto6163 I meant Diy.
Some thermal paste would help a lot with that heatsink, it’s pretty loose fit. Air gaps are not your friend. Great motor for the price though. Would be great for a riding mower conversion.
These are notabley bullet proof and i think your problem with burning motors out to heat could be installing new bearings without lubricant, and cleaning with alcohol and other lubricants which will caise excess heat buildup.
Everyone says the 72v version of this motor goes bad quickly, i wanna buy one can u confirm they are bulletproof?
I cant confirm that the 72 volt goes bad quickly but I have heard they have smaller fan to fit more inside the housing. Just from experience I run my "1800 watt" 48 volt version at 64 volts 40 amps and it doesnt get much hotter under load at full power at all for me in case that makes it easier for you
@@padricriley9828 yeah to be honest i might just leave the bike gas and engine swap it cuz its like 5 times cheaper
thanks man. this really is helpful 👍
Don't cut the threads off before putting them on they will strip out the inserts. Also don't countersink to far, no more then halfway. I just made these mistakes waiting on new motor.
Those my1020 motors don't pair well with sine wave controllers. I tried sabvoton and kelly, both of which work very well with other bldc motors but not the my1020 . Also if you run these above 8-9kw the performance drops permanently and stresses the rest of the system. I reckon anywhere over 120amps will definitely kill that motor.
Qs motors do a motor the same dimensions (qs90) that pairs well with sine wave controllers and can handle 12kw for short bursts. A friend ran his at 12kw (80v150a) for a full minute (towing test) and the temp gun showed 73 degrees celsius.
Just a thought. Maybe in the long run it'll save you some money.
I have two of these and want to run them at 5kw each, 150v or more 50a limit, would they hold up? Ideally i want 160v so i can run stupid high rpms and reduce to get silly torque, all this for a 1.3 ton hybrid electric car , the 1.7 td engine stays possibly with a hoverboard wheel generator to load batteries just af idle
Tell me, how much power can the qs90 handle on a regular basis? Will it withstand 3.5 kw?
@@clownbooface2624 Sorry for late reply. For a hybrid lightweight car, they should be OK. Personally I'd use a bigger motor run slower because there's other parts, like bearings, gearing, etc that won't handle the rpms. I also suspect that the motors won't last very long under those conditions. I'm not an engineer, so maybe look for videos where people have massively overvolted their motors, or gradually increase the power, measuring heat of the motor along the way.
Hope this helps.
@@nissanrazbor7949 Yes it will easily handle that on regular basis easily. These motors are conservatively rated. It can handle that and more, continuously with no problems.
@@colinriches1519 I want to make a light motorcycle. There are only 2 light and cheap motors: my1020 and qs90. My1020 is very cheap, it doesn’t hurt to drill it, if you install a fan, it will withstand 3 kW. But it will become full of holes and debris will get into it. Maybe me buy a qs90, at least no debris will get into it + a sinus controller. Its declared power is only 1 kW. If you apply 3 kW to it for 20 minutes, won't it burn out?
While I 100% appreciate the incalculable value of developmental growth… for the price, it may be a case of “buy it nice or buy it twice.” I ordered the standard MY1020 kit twice, only to cancel those sales, and buy the 5000 watt Electro and Company kit; which fortifies the internals of the motor (they call it the MY1020+) with thicker wires and a larger shaft (insert your own joke here… hehehe… insert). The kit comes with a 200A Kelly Controller and everything is “no brained” for easy installation.
Not an advertisement. Heck mine is still in the mail; but I have wasted just as much time as I have money “researching,” trying to get the best on the cheap when I could have valued myself and quality over savings.
It’s ultimately cheaper in the long run to do what you want from the get go.
I appreciate your opinion but I have a story of my own lol me and my brother both bought mx650s at the same time I decided to build mine from scratch and he bought the electro and co kit after waiting over 2 months and going back and forth with Austin we finally received his kit , right off the bat his battery was half my size I have a 25ah and his kit came with the “20ah” at the time they now sell there top kit with a 25ah , on our first ride together he ran out at 18 miles and had to be picked up I went 31 , on our second ride his controller was shutting off and making beeping sounds , it was over heating and we had relocate the controller to a cooler location , since then it has been fine , he tops out at 40mph and I top out at 46 flat and I’m 40 more lbs then him , and he still has not gone over 18 miles , so I wouldn’t say E&C is “hassle free” is it easier ? Yes but at cost of nearly double mine and half the range and a very long wait time that I keep hearing about from multiple people I wouldn’t recommend it but hey that’s just my experience hopfully you don’t have a similar one !
@@voltmasterp8470 I would like to take one of the electro and co motors apart and see the internals compare to a Vevor 72v 3000w motor . I think the kelly controller is awesome and if I kill my controller I will pick one up . But they use alot of power . I'm running my Vevor 48v 2000w motor kit at 60v and have had no issues . I shunt modied one and it did 45 but it had to much torque.
@@voltmasterp8470 That’s a fantastic response. Thanks for sharing that story. Without knowing, but hearing the issues you have had, it sounds like you might have had the Version 1.0 kit. They’ve since added more heat sinks to the controller, and maybe modified the motor; certainly in service to fixing some of the directly related concerns you had. Time will only tell. The cool part is that it seems like E&C cares about their customers, and should I have issues, they’ll do right by it.
I ordered my kit on the 1st of May, and got word it shipped yesterday or the day before; so I was either lucky, or they’re picking up a bit of steam.
In terms of batteries, I have gifted curse: 72v, 40ah triangle of doom. It might be too big, but if not, it’ll serve me well. I’m also working on doing a hot swappable Lawn mower battery setup; which would be great, as I can swap them out along the ride.
We’ll see. I’ll certainly share my experience. I definitely appreciate your perspective and (larger body of experience) on this, and am only made better with the collective knowledge we bring to one another. Thanks again!
@@Nohoze Thank you for that !! Please keep me posted and get some vids and pics of your build would love to see it !! your officially addicted lol welcome to the club !! Goodluck 💪🏻
Estan excelentes todas esas mejoras (yo aun no tengo todo lo necesario pero estoy en ese camino con mi MX650), tengo dos dudas a ver si me puedes/pueden ayudar: 1) Con que se pega o asegura el heat sink al motor? 2) Vale la pena poner una malla de metal o plastico por dentro o por fuera de la tapa del motor para evitar en la medida de lo posible entre tierra por lo agujeros mas grandes? Saludos!
All these improvements are excellent (I haven't all the necessary yet but I'm on that path with my MX650), I have two questions to see if you can help me: 1) How stick or secure the heat sink to the engine? 2) Is it worth putting a metal or plastic mesh inside or outside the engine cover to avoid as much as possible the dirt due to larger holes? Best regards!
Buenas, al final hiciste alguna de estas dos? Gravias
Hey man love this, can I ask what voltage u were using at full charge is it 80v? or full charge is 72v?
A 12v CPU fan bolted over those drill holes will work great
Yeah I saw a guy in a ride with it and did it a couple weeks ago !! Don’t have to stop and give her breaks anymore
or drill a hole in the center of a CPU fan blade part and stick that on the 1020's shaft since it's going to be turning anyways (less wiring needed)
With these mods whats the max power of these motor? Whats a maximum temperature measured internally near the windings
Hey man if this motor blows out I whould say go and buy an electro and company motor their alot more reliable it is a bit more on the pricy side tho but it will last a lot longer
It’s still going strong and they all get The motors from China , my brother bought there kit and I compared them side by side , they have slightly bigger wire recently but trust me when I say there not worth it
im honestly surprised how many motors you have gone through haha i still have the same motors i bought may 2021 and i never did the air flow or bearing upgrades haha
Maybe I’m pushing more amps through mine , what’s your top speed ?
@@voltmasterp8470 haha you might be, my top speed is 45 but im using T8F chain and 54t rear sprocket and the stock motor sprocket these motors come with, but ive never gone dirt riding or climing hills very much, only bike trails and street riding.
@@highvoltfab what company is your motor.
@@noce1071 first one I got was the kit from kunray on Amazon, the second one was a no brand one with 80amp controller from eBay, I’m pretty sure they are all made in one factory but vevor and kunray are definitely the two names that we hear/see
@@highvoltfab I know that vevor spends the 20 cents more to put in a impeller to cool the motor. I have seen kunray with them also.
tell me about that swing arm extension....LOL. It's clean!
50 MPH !!! DAAAAMMM THAT FAST.
Whoa, did you say you had stock razor gearing on this bike when this video was made? 11/80 ? With 11/80 I can’t do better than 32. 13/80 gets me to just over 35. I’m 170lbs. 72v with stock kunray / vevor controller. 72v25Ah btr battery.
I shunt modded the controller and bypassed the battery!
I notcied a thing. The lower rated motors has a fan in then to push air thriugh it and cool it down. But, this model that is stronger doesn't. Of course you blow them, they arent cooled. In the 48v videos on YT you see them all having fans built in, but these does not. To me that just cant work becuse of over heating.
Damn. Im impressed! That thing is fast. What kind of controller and where did you buy the motor from? Are the kunray ones off Amazon good? Building a 72v razor right now. I think I blew the first controller
I just bought the kunrey kit for 269 $ is looks quality but still need to buy a battery
You need to upgrade the sprocket maybe 13 tooth and 51 at the rear maybe easier on engine
Ayo i made a bike with exactly that motor and i've been riding that since 2021. No problem whatsoever, nothing blew up. Rn i want to do the shunt mod on my controller. The only problem with this setup is that the motor is getting hot when i'm riding on full throttle more then 5 minutes in temperatures over 25°C
When you get back from rides do you smell something toasting/burning?
How much you can put in this motor ?
When you place the heat sink you should put the high temp silicone heatsink adhesive between. the fins and the motor. Last I would put a high velocity cooling fan blowing into my drilled out holes. I am fixing to make the first 48 volt ShopSmith with one of these. Then a 2x72 knfe m grinder too. Way cheap than buying 3 phase eclectic motor dn mm hg ggghggggggg
you should post a test ride my man, thanks for the tutorial btw
it would be interesting to know how the older motors actually failed
The heat , they practically melted internally and fused together
@VoltMasterP do you know where to get that round spring that goes in the end of the motor cover. Mine didn't even have one when I opened it and it rattles when I take off. I am sure that's why.
is the torque of this motor enough for mountain bike?
Brillaint video thanks for sharing, do you think this motor would work well in a 130kg quad bike? Currently has a 1500w 60v motor and it does have a decent amount of torque and a top end of about 45 kph what would the difference be using this motor thanks
with this MOTOR maybe 70km/h with a 3000W 72V motor
The motor that blew is it the same motor as that?
Is Kunray a trustworthy company I’m looking to buy a 72v motor
That is FAST
What size sprocket did you get and from where to replace the stock/original sprocket that came on the motor? Thanks!
Is it possible to over volt the motor to say use a 21s battery pack? Or even a 22s? I am hoping to max the motor on an outboard conversion and I want to push it to the max
I wouldn’t recommend it I’m blowing these motors left and right with 100amps at 72v , I would recommend a bigger motor
Did that heat sink and holes do the trick to not frying the motor again? I installed one of these 3000w 72v stock motors on my drift trike at 60v and it overheated, puffed smoke and stopped working in the first hour of riding. Has anyone done rewinding on these motors? Would the 48v 2000w my1020 motor handle the 60v better than the 72v version? Seems like the 72v version would be better as it can handle more amps. What motor to buy now?
They definitely helped a lot but what really did it was the 2 fans ! Check out my other video of the fans ! No problems since and it’s been hot in socal!! I have a full parts list video and my motor is on it with link !
Do you off road with this motor? With both end caps being drilled out ?
what battery do you use with this motor?
Nice bike was jus wondering what controller are you using or how are you pushing more amps mine only clocks out at 42 11t front sprocket and 54t back sprocket #25chain
Nice, how big of a rear wheel are you running on your setup? Thinking of running a Vevor 3000w 72v 11or 9 tooth to 53 tooth sprocket bolted to disc mounts on rear wheel on my Kona Ute running 29x2.3" tires.. Planning on using the motor to supplement my energy and regenerate for braking.. wondered if it would be underpowered to spin a 29" wheel with that ratio, or it would it be enough? Input appreciated. I'm use to pedaling, but would dig the extra juice and the regen. Thanks!)
What about the fan because I have the same motor with no fan where would I get one because my motors overheating
@@justinlester88 I would recommend a better engine I tried every thing to keep these motors from over heating and blew 6 of them , electro and co has a good one $299 and the sotion fw11 is getting some good reviews , I’ll be doing a update video on the yellow bike stay tuned with the fw11
Can you please tell me where can I buy battery because I looked every where there five and up and does the brushless motor have to match the voltage and wattage of the battery
What size drill bit did he use?
MX is looking good. are you running stock tooth sprocket setup? and was performance the same with your new 3k watt motor?
Thank you !! Stock gearing and I got one more MPH on this motor lol seems more torquey on the bottom end tho , mods are more for reliability but smoother bearings clean motor and keeping cool should delivery the best performance aswell !
I've got a my1020 motor with a gearbox, I want to get rid of it. Do you know where to get the motor cap (like the ones you drill) to assemble it without the reduction?
How big is your battery, and how long does it last?
Would it be fine if I run a 72v 3000w kit with 48v 20ah battery? That way if I ever want to upgrade to a 72v battery later, I don’t have change out the motor and controller.
The controller cuts off at 60 v but the motor would be fine to do that !
@@voltmasterp8470 Good to know. Thanks!
What battery are you using?
Did you have any trouble when you put the motor back together? I did the same upgrade (drilled holes and replaced bearings) and when I put it all together the motor doesn't turn smooth, it catches. I think this is due to the bearings because the ones I took off were very tight on the shaft and the penguin ones are able to be pulled off much easier. Just wondering if you experienced any issues lack this, anything helps I'm at a loss at the moment.
I’ve replace 6 motors with those bearings and havnt had one issue , have you tried taking it back apart ? , trying running the motor just to confirm it’s bound up .
It sounds like it's a Hall sensor problem.
I'm trying to do this with the 2000w version of the motor. I can't get the bearings to come off. Also do you think it would be possible to put thicker power wires running in to the motor?
It is possible but why tho? Only if those wires are getting hot you should do it but otherwise it does not make sense
@@robertindabuilding2876 they do get hot if you run too much power. Also larger wires will make the motor run more efficient. I found a way to order the motor directly from the manufacturer with 6mm phase wires and a temperature sensor. I have more power motors at this point, but I want to see the max that I can get out of an my1020 motor.
@@johnjordan2460 how can i order from direct manafactuar
I'm looking for a 60v 3000w controller I can find the motor but not the controller to suit would you or anyone know where I can find one I'm upgrading my 2000w 60v evo scooter atm but the best I can find is a 2500w 60v setup
Or test with razor mx500 stock controller is more like the Q I'm asking cause the 500w motor don't get as hot as the 1800w motor
It’s 2 different motors the 500 is a 2 wire brushed motor the silver 1020 motors like in my video are a 3 wire brushless motor so no interchanging controllers
What is the rough cost of these 72v 3000w Motors?
200 USD
I have a question is it normal for a 72v battery to pop or spark when connecting to the 72v motor
@@grizzly9405 yes it does it every time when I plug in the controller to the battery
Slight downhill shit was a fucking cliff lol 😂
Muito bom
is it worth is to use a higher amperage controller (I'm using a 220a kelly controller) because the motor specs says that it is 45a max, so can it actually draw more?
On average you don’t want to push these motors past 80 amps they will blow , you need a fan setup forsure ! I just upgraded to the electro and co replacement motor they just came out with .
80 amps with cooling? What could it do continuous? I’m looking at these for small utility ATVs, riding mowers or walk behind tillers etc.
How long did this motor last ?
Over 2000 miles
Can u test motor with jus battery and throttle no controller
How hot is normal for these, mine gets to 150f after a few miles.
@@dustinday3951 I’ve burnt all mine up but never recorded the temp , I would pour water over mine to cool down on a ride they just get to hot , I’ve moved on to bigger motors QS motors and Sotion motors can handle all the power and heat no problem !
Do you know if the heat sink will fit on the stock 600watt motor?
I believe it will !! But I have not seen it first hand
How did you get the heat sink on?
It snaps on !! Flexes just enough but it’s tight .
What are you using to lubricate the bearings after the alcohol and all that?
They are sealed bearings that I replace every couple months , I have a link in my videos
What battery are you running a 48 V or a 72 V?
BTR 72v 25ah I get 28-30miles on charge 46mph on flat and I weigh 220lbs
@@voltmasterp8470 lifepo4 or l-ion?
@@MrHydroguy lifepo4
@@voltmasterp8470 is it 72volts full charge?(4.2v) or 72 volts nominal at 3.7v per cell
How good is this motor as a competitor to the motor QS138 - QS165 ?
I have the qs138 and I can say that this motor doesn’t even compare if this motor makes 5 hp for example the qs138 makes 30hp , the 165 is right in the middle
@@voltmasterp8470 That is, the best motor is QS138 ?
What and where for inner fan blade?
Dude, what controller are you running on that!?
Dude! I have the same question! I've purchased a 60A controller and I do not know if I will just blown my 45A rated motor.. What are your thoughts?
hows this holding up? Any issues with debris getting in the motor?
So far so good done about 6 rides at 20-30 miles with no problem , but I still have to take breaks or she gets to hot but I’m 220lbs and it’s a small Motor
@@voltmasterp8470 I hear you. how hot is it there where you're at? it gets up to 110 in the summer whhere i'm at..
@@jackvucreative yeah it gets into the 100s but mostly 90s In Summer I’m in Ventura county pretty close to the beach so we get that coolness from the ocean
@voltmasterp i was planning on building an ebike with a custom box made out of hdpe and polycarbonate. Your tips and tricks will help me a lot in the long run. I live in the same area as you too. Once the bikes ready we should meet up🤙🏽
@@ogclips7467 hit me up we’ll go on a cruise !!!
Hows this new motor coming along? have you done the shunt mod?
It’s great I’ve recently added these cooling fans , two 40mm 12 v a guy on Facebook 3d prints them !
Just made video of fans because of you !! thank you for asking !!
@@voltmasterp8470 hell yeah bro I’m about to do the same thing but with gears!
А где вентилятор который должен стоять внутри двигателя???
Get statorade for it
next time use heat sink glue for pc cpu
wtf,put oil inside to move the heat from coils
pls
something tells me all these motors are ALL the same just different controllers? i don't thing there is a deference between a 1800 watt and a 3000 watt motors. that would be more work for china to produce, has anyone seen a deference between motor kits other then controllers? what are the physical deference's other then the BS stickers they slap on and charge more for?
The 1800 has an internal fan and and is more narrow to accommodate the fan , the “3000” I’ve never seen a internal fan , but I agree with you they do all look and perform basically the same !
@@voltmasterp8470 I would love to see a video on someone doing a side by side tear down of the two or three different motors and see if one has more copper windings and is heavier? would help when buying just the motor, if all the same one could just buy the cheapest option out there. maybe even do a bench test!
I've opened the 1800w, 2000w,2500w, and the 3000w. The lower wattage ones have a smaller magnet stack and has enough room for a fan inside. All the cases are the same size. 3000w magnets fill up 70%-80% of the can while the 1800w magnets only fill up maybe 50% of the can
hey man what battery are you using
BTR 72v 25 amp hour
How heavy are you and the bike
I’m 220lbs and the bike is 105lbs
No entendí lo que hizo con el motor
dude why from eBay…
Bad video people don’t watch this. Not sure but I think he works for the electric motor company and he wants to sell motors because this guy is brutal on this 1020. He destroys it before install.
I followed the link in Amazon, and it says that bearings were designed in Florida. Designed only. Its probably made in China. Just buy bearings made in Japan. Literaly it must be written Japan on bearing.
Will the heat sink fit on, without cutting the bracket of, making go kart the bike gets up an goes cheers an thanx
In my application you have to cut it off., but if it’s mounted to a go cart there’s a good chance you won’t have to cut it
@@voltmasterp8470 thanx you having a good run with it this time, thanx for reply
мотор называется сделай сам
Is Kunray a trustworthy company I’m looking to buy a 72v motor
Did you put any thermal paste on the heatsink?
most likely not, it doesn't need any type of thermal paste
@@paper9570 I actually just ordered one of those heatsinks and the diameter is slightly smaller than the motor and leaves an air gap in the middle of the heatsink. If I use that heatsink I’ll be sure to put something to aid in the heat transfer like a thermal pad or paste. Just wondering what others do.
i got 2 tubes of thermal. made a diff
@@KeatonsCarlott I bet!
@@bj97301 also got some fine mesh stainless steel and marcos shaft driven fan!
What size are the bearings?
There is a link in the description with the bearing.