TOO ALL OF YOU WATCHING THIS. this is the rwd model without xdrive. if you have xdrive some more stuff has to come off to get the mechtronic sleeve out and the new one in. exhaust has to come off, as well as heat shield, and transfer case mounting bracket, as well as the front wheels driveshaft (only need to remove the end near the tc. replace those 4 bolts though as they are stretch tty bolts. since the tc bracket has to come off, might as well change that tc fluid too (takes bmw -df spec fluid which is about 40 usd a quart)
I have an Xdrive 2007 e61 Wagon and got the sleeve out without taking any brackets or exhaust off. Its a tight fit to get it in and out but the sleeve will come out if you play with it. To get leverage for install get, I used a handle of a big screw driver and it popped right in. Save yourself hours of work and try it!
@@cameronlaurent if you got it without removing extra stuff then all the more power to you. i live in an area with high salt content on the roads in the winter so EVERYTHING on this pig is super glued on with either rust or corrosion. sometimes taking stuff off the get more room to man handle things is all you can do
@@hughneutron5303 Yeah this was a clean Cali car. I thought about dropping everything believe me. It took an hour to figure out it could be done but for sure have to be patient to figure it out. That was for a 2007 E61 Wagon and other cars with transfer cases might have different mounting points so it might not be possible for all.
A good advice to all would be DIY enthusiasts. It is better to own two cars so that you can work on one while the other car is standing by ready to go to harbor freight to buy more tools or parts.
Great advice. I don't own two cars so I rent a U-Haul to get parts and leave my car parked until I get it going. The U-Haul costs me about 40.00-60.00 usd for 24 hours. Estimate as low mileage as possible so it will be even cheaper.
You will benefit from shifting from park to neutral to reverse to neutral then adaptive shift from 1st tot 2nd and repeat that process twice with a 3 second delay between each shift. This is done with the oil temp at 40 deg celcius. This ensures that the transmission will have the exact correct amount of fluid as per ZF fluid fill instructions. After you reset the adaptations the vehicle will relearn the best shift pressures over approximately 60 klm of normal stop start traffic driving. Great video.
I bought my E46 6 years ago at 131k and your videos are the reason why It runs better now than it did when I bought it! 210k and running strong! I'm here now just to learn new tricks from a great teacher!
I had a harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop and transmission malfunction would come on as soon as car warmed up it would throw a check engine light and get stuck in a higher gear 4F8D gear ratio monitoring 5-4 (2007 335i). I changed fluid and pan didn't work, I changed mechatronic seal kit (didn't seem cracked) didn't work. So i connected to protools for bmw went into transmission functions and reset the adaptations in there and it fixed it, Been driving it for a week now everyday and it shifts great with no transmission malfunction.
I did my seals without the solenoids in a 2009 E87 with a ZF 6HP21 (in Australia) @ 230K's........yes 230Ks young !! I did not reset the adaptations and just drove it. Although the issues caused by the leaking seals had gone.... (slight flaring and not changing down smoothly), the software had "learnt" some poor "new" change patterns while it was flaring and poor changes - all the research I did all said that the software is "programmable" via driving style BUT it also said that it's a good idea to do the adaptations when you buy a used vehicle so it will "learn" your driving/shifting style. I found that after a few days of driving the software learnt my style and everything smoothed out anyway. I freaking love my BMW's.
Very good your video. Just making a correction, its transmission is a 6hp21, it is clearly seen by the design of the mechatronics. All N54 engined 335i automatics came out with 6hp21 transmission which is a second generation transmission. What is confusing is that BMW calls the 6hp21 the 6hp19TU. First generation: 6hp19z, 6hp26 and 6hp32 Second generation: 6hp21, 6hp28 and 6hp34
Recently did this on my 6hp21, but I happened to break the pins on the connector of the mechatronics unit not, SO PLZ PEOPLE When your plugging it back in MAKE sure you get it in the correct orientation, otherwise you’ll have to spend 300 plus like I had to on another used unit.
If you drain and fill the fluid with an electric pump from the trans cooler line like I do the fluid can be reused in the event you're not sure about the solenoids and don't want to throw away brand new fluid to test them. I actually modified the line with a Y valve so the fluid can be flushed in 10 minutes (make's me more likely to find time to do it every 25-30k miles)...the line pressure is only about 16-25PSI and the valve is rated for 80+ so there's no real downside plus the car becomes more servicable.
Very helpful and informative video 😃. I have an E90 whose transmission needs servicing. I appreciate this video. I live in an area wherein mechanics who don't really know what they're doing are willing and eager to experiment with your car. I took my car to replace my bad turbocharger some months ago, that is the day I came back and decided to do it myself - Videos like these are really helpful. Thanks 😊
Thanks a lot, Jason, for this very informative video. It makes me feel less anxious about trying to repair a downshift issue from 2nd to 1st. My concern is getting the software to do the adapt shift mode things - because without that, the transmission may not work right! Argh!
If you have an xdrive and you feel that jolt or clunk when slowing down, or when accelerating or going up hill or around corners please try changing your transfer case fluid first. That 100% fixed this issue for me (2006 325xi). Just an FYI.
Great complete tutorial on this topic. Thanks for this. It's surprising that 7+ liters of transmission fluid drained out; it looked like only 1 or 2 liters drained out.
Great video. Good to know that not all DIY peeps have lifts and a big garage to attempt such a task. My garage is about the same size and I don't have a lift. I am having a sluggish shift from 2nd to 3rd. Not sure if I should do the full service or just the sleeves.
-I wonder what is the actual relevance of those four black sleeves...what kind of symptoms their poor condtion might cause? Thank you for the excellent video.
Fantastic video ! My trans on my 08 650 also makes a clicking sound when driving. Would that also be a symptom to look for ? The trans also surges when driving. Also is there a way to rest the adaption with out using the computer with software ?
I did my 2008 330d m sport auto, had 2 loose screws holding the valve body together, surprisingly. Its a good idea to check all screws. Gear box is running much smoother. Great job. 👍
Excellent video. Very clear instructions. Great audio and video quality. I recommend watching other videos to capture a couple missed points, one being the shift sequence during the second fill (1st, 2nd, Rev, etc (not necessarily in this order).
EMERGENCY MY FRIEND IM FROM PUERTO RICO THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS I GOT A PROBLEM I DO EVERYTHING IN THE VIDEO BUT WHEN I REMOVE THE SOLENOID ANOTHER 1/2 SECTION SEPARED AND SOME CREW WITH SPRING COME OUT AND SOME BALLINS TOO...I NEED THE POSITION OF THOSE SPRINGS AND THE BALLINS...PLEASE HELP.😢😢😢😢😢
Is this the same transmission ZF as on my 2006 Range Rover sports ? Was driving perfect and then just stopped and won't go into any gear's. looking for an indie to fix it for me in London 🙏
Thank you so much for this brilliant demo. I have BMW 320i with limp mood gear problem especially when cold. After changing the gear box oil the Fault code says gear lever switch pack and speed sensor. The garage (BSR Scotter Village Gainsborough) is not sure what to do next and asked me to ask you for your expert advice Please .
I’ve got faulty transmission reduced acceleration so do I change solenoids, sleeves, fluid? When we put it on the computer the fault says 3rd and 4th gear fault
Great video! I have a e90 335i, some times it goes to limp mode and lock the car in (5/6 gear) i have to delete the codes so I can keep driving normal. Do you think this would fix the problem or should I buy a new transmission?
I made the mistake of reset the adaptations without doing the sleeves, solenoids and fluid service.. now it studders and hesitates when i drive at constant speed. It still makes the jerk from 2 to 1 when i stop. So my next thing is to do this job. Thanx!
@@prajp9795 I dont think i got any codes reguarding transmission after that.. but the studdering was around for a while, it didnt just go away fast.. maybe a few weeks.. and now it behaves like it did before.. i still havent had the chanse to do the transmissionservice.. i have to change the mecatronic sleeves and fill new oil..
Outstanding video! I have two question for you please. 1. I also used the FEBI fluid instead ZF or BMW - I have read that it may not have been the smartest choice. Have you seen any issues (shift quality deterioration)? Do you think there are any issues with using this fluid in 6HP19? 2. After changing the fluid and resetting adaptation, I am still experiencing slight hesitation/a bit rough shift 2-3 only. Any ideas? I have not changed an mechatronic seals, etc. Thank you kindly in advance for any insight!
Which orientation those different length rubber sleeves go in the four holes. You mentioned the long one goes in the very left hole. Do you remember orientation on the other three sleeves?
The solenoids don't normally go bad unless this sleeves have been bad and solenoids have been working their butt off to get the pressure up high enough. That is normally what causes the solenoids to go bad. If the sleeves have been bad for a while then you may have solenoid issues but that's not very common. There are many fluids you can use in this transmission. The BMW fluid ZF fluid the one AR using pentosin ATF 1, and also the Valvoline I believe it is maxlife. The purpose of using Valvoline fluid if you have a transmission with the clutches are worn a little bit the Valvoline fluid is slightly thicker. Whenever you remove gritty transmission fluid which normally is clutch material and you put in back Sharif in fluid it's going to cause slippage. So it will cause a transmission to last longer. A lot of people in this applies to any transmission start having transmission issues get it serviced remove the gritty fluid out of it was just clutch material and then put in clean fluid that is Silky whatever and the next thing you know they lose the gear and it's because the fluid has gotten thinner. I have had four 530i and I have spent a lot of time dealing with that specific transmission. Overall it is a good unit but every 10 to 15 years you do need to change the valve body sleeves. Have a wonderful afternoon
No, pentosin ATF 1 or Valvoline Maxlife are NOT the correct fluids for this transmission. You cannot use regular synthetic red colored ATF. You must use fluid that is specifically made for this transmission, either ZF Lifeguard 6 or Febi 34608. It is yellow in color.
Good morning, So I just watched your video about cables for INPA and BMW Scanner1.4. I see you put up the link to purchase the cable for INPA. Does the cable come with the INPA software as well? In the description, I saw that there was a CD in the package for cable on Amazon. Is that the INPA software?
Not trying to throw shade, but why didn't you split the valve body and replace the dampners? I have done this job several times and the dampners are always really flattened compared to stock. Just curious...
@@50sKid When you split the two separate halves of the valve body and remove the separator plate there will be 7 accumulators/dampers. I am not aware of a part number. I don't think Real OEM shows the internal parts for the valve body, but I could be wrong. I get all my parts from Nat and Eriksson Industries, they specialize in ZF transmissions. I am sure if you watch videos from Gary Ferraro he talks about how worn down the dampeners get and shows side by sides of new versus old. When these wear down they effect the shift quality of the transmission.
Don't even have a e90 (yet). still in the e36/e46 world!!!! but love watching your vid's!. Also bad for my wallet - first sold me a Milwaukee tools - now just opened the wallet for one of those pumps. Memory of my last (Very messy fluid change on my Sons e36 came flooding back! Have to change my other sons e46 on the next service.
Almost but not quite remove fill plug BEFORE you remove drain plug. Air will enter pan as it drains via the fill plug and allow fluid to drain nice and smooth. Next tip. Remove all but the two pan bolts that are on opposite side of drain hole. As you begin to loosen pan, end with drain hole will drop down, allowing remaining fluid in pan to drain via drain hole and not over the sides of the pan. As flow through drain plug slows, gradually loosen last 2 drain pan bolts to allow more fluid to drain via drain hole. Once flow stops, remove last 2 pan bolts and pan. Much cleaner method. Lastly the pan bolts are ONE TIME USE ONLY and must be replaced after removal. The are aluminum and cannot be reused SAFELY as they cannot be safely retorqued to spec.
Almost, but not quite. I did remove the fill plug first. I've drained pans using the method you describe and I find it be more messy sometimes when the drain plug is on the shallow side of the pan -- often the remaining fluid will overspill the edges before managing to drain out of the hole. The bolts are not one time use and they are not aluminum.
Hi, great work! Why we love these cars, they are such a pain in the as! For ruff shifting, for - rev, there might be a lack of oil reason. Replacing solenoids is quite expensive. Also, you mixed different types of oil, who knows which was in before.
hi there! im planning to do this to mt car as well and i noticed you said not to use red AFT the brand I chose to go with is liquid molly 1800 AFT that is gold not red and purchased from fcp euro… the reviews say its great just wondering your opinion since i thought this one in particular would still be good thanks!
Hello, I have been following your content for a while and I think everyone agrees with me that it is one of the best on TH-cam. I own a BMW x3 2010 E83 3.0 automatic transmission GM. I replaced the transmission fluid with a product (ZF LifeguardFluid 6) My question to you is is it suitable or should I replace it again with Dixion 6 liquid
Jason, absolutely best 6hp19 video I’ve seen!! Wish I had seen this about a year ago . I did our 2007 530i transmission because it went into limp mode an would not allow the transmission to go into gear via locked the gear shifter. Had to use the red emergency lever to limp it home 2miles . Anyway I had a Solenoid go bad. Went to the junkyard and got the entire valve body an replaced it . But I used Valvoline max life because I had seen few others do that . It’s been about 12k miles an no issues. Actually doing better than ever before. Would you suggest I drain an swap filter an fluids to lifeguard? Or just leave it ? Because of the immediate rush I was in I reused the sleeves but they were ok. Since then I ordered them so I do plan to install them at some point . I’m just wondering when I do to go back with max life or the life guard since it’s all mixed already? Thanks for the great an best bmw videos !!
I would absolutely recommend you drain and flush and use the proper fluid. Use what I used, febi 34608 as its half the price of the ZF. Oembimmerparts has a great price on it!
@@50sKid thanks for the advice, I still need to acquire INPA myself. I have the cord but it came with no software on the disc provided. Plus I’m not very swift on the laptop . Lol
I work on these cars for a living and will tell you that Max Life fluid will kill these units. It doesn't happen right away, it's a slow gradual death. Max Lofe only works in the GM built units. Not the ZF units. Use Febi, or Liqui Moly if you don't want to pay premium for the ZF fluid. Although, that fluid can be had for 13-18 dollars a quart if you look hard enough these days.
Salut dans quel situation tu remplace le mechatronic ? mes vitesses saute et tournent dans le vide . Après couper le contact le défaut disparaît . 🤔🤔🤔 défaut 4F8A
I followed every single step you did, but the engine is not started when I turned on the key even though I had the light on my dashboard. Do you have recommendation what would be the issue?
Great video really helped I didn’t replace the solenoids, but my trans still will not go into park and won’t move under a load. I have an e70 so the shifter says park but you could still roll the vehicle. Any thoughts?
Excellent walk through. I am looking at doing this on my Audi S4 with the same ZF6HP19 transmission. I have a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st but mine loses it's position and goes into limp mode. Error code reads shift position range sensor. Not sure if rebuilding the mechatronics will correct my main issue. A4's have the range sensor on the exterior of the tranny. A euro shop in town told me the S4 didn't have one and that rebuilding the mechatronics would correct it.
@BrokeMahWallet So I rebuilt the mechatronics with new solenoids and it shifts better but it did not fix the range position sensor fault that causes the tranny to go into limp mode. I have since figured out that the S4 does indeed have a range sensor, it's just built into the TCM. So basically I'll need the trans computer repaired.
i have a 2006 750i w a 6hp26, im about to replace the bridge seal and the 4 other vertical seals and replace to piston dampeners..... what do i need to do AFTER all that?
Did the fix hold up? Also, did you have to do a full relearn drive cycle procedure after resetting the adaptations or did you just drive normally? My car shifts great when it's cold but garbage when hot. Might have to try this.
Hi. First off, GREAT VID. your explaining and footage is excellent. thanx for this great vid. Ive got an Audi 3.0litre v6 diesel quattro. with gearbox ZF 6HP-19. Said in yer vid the hp-26 has the wiring inside, but my -19 does have it. the rest looks mostly the same as your box, except the pan and filter. (they seperate from each other). now, here my question. i cannot find replacement parts for the Audi like you got for the BMW. possible you could help me with a link to where find the Audi spares for her transmission?
Hey man! Love your TH-cam channel. Just bought a ‘09 750iL and it’s having some issues shifting into D and R when it’s hot. It’ll pop into park and not want to go into gear. It’ll also take a few secs to get into gear as well, like the symptom you were having. Reving a small amount sometimes helps but it will thud into gear which isn’t a good sound. Definitely been trying to avoid that. It’s a zf 6speed transmission. Watching some of your videos and from what I’ve gathered, it may be the valve solenoids. I plan on servicing the the trans, solenoids, and sleeves, plugs etc. Does this sound like the right route to take? Thank you!
I have a 2008 528i im having issues with the trans. It wont go into drive or reverse when its cold. I will have to turn off car and turn back on over and over and immediately put it in gear for it to work. Ince its warm it works most of the time. Under hard acceleration it will go into neutral also and ill have to power car off and back on. The obdII codes show torque converter clutch. I bought the sleeves and want to get the solenoids. But im hesitant on getting the torque clutch bc its a trans removal job. Do you think the sleeves and solenoids will fix the issue?
Hello there, I have 535i my transmission jerking from 1 to 2 gear in cold weather or morning when car parked more than 8hrs, after that car shifts as normal , no code show on dashboard, new solenoids bridge seal and tube , pan also been chase the issue in couple months but no luck, can you give me some advice Thank
Hi I have a e60 530i and was having problems with my gear box, when it was cold star the car wouldn't go to drive, it would go back to park, then I decided to let it warm for 10-15 minutes and then the shifts would work, so I got the 4f81 code error and I decided to change the sleeves, filter, solenoides and after that the car startes shifting to drive in cold start (got all the parts from oembimmerparts) but I've notice (1 week from repair) that sometimes shifting up gets in with a kick, is that normal the first days? would that mean another transmision problem?
My e92 330d xdrive has had shifting problems for a while. It’s started by just revving up instead of shifting when driving. I also felt like small bumps from behind in 2-1 downshifts. Sometimes it jumped into some kind of neutral were it wouldn’t drive in reverse. Sometimes it also throws a faulty code “transmission malfunction” but when you restart the car it disappears and appears again after driving a bit. And now it has come to the point where the car barely drives farward sometimes, but when it does it runs great then the faulty code appears and it barely drives. Could changing sleaves and solinoids fix this or is the transmission unsavable? Grateful for any tips or advice🙏
TOO ALL OF YOU WATCHING THIS. this is the rwd model without xdrive. if you have xdrive some more stuff has to come off to get the mechtronic sleeve out and the new one in. exhaust has to come off, as well as heat shield, and transfer case mounting bracket, as well as the front wheels driveshaft (only need to remove the end near the tc. replace those 4 bolts though as they are stretch tty bolts. since the tc bracket has to come off, might as well change that tc fluid too (takes bmw -df spec fluid which is about 40 usd a quart)
I have an Xdrive 2007 e61 Wagon and got the sleeve out without taking any brackets or exhaust off. Its a tight fit to get it in and out but the sleeve will come out if you play with it. To get leverage for install get, I used a handle of a big screw driver and it popped right in. Save yourself hours of work and try it!
@@cameronlaurent if you got it without removing extra stuff then all the more power to you. i live in an area with high salt content on the roads in the winter so EVERYTHING on this pig is super glued on with either rust or corrosion. sometimes taking stuff off the get more room to man handle things is all you can do
@@hughneutron5303 Yeah this was a clean Cali car. I thought about dropping everything believe me. It took an hour to figure out it could be done but for sure have to be patient to figure it out. That was for a 2007 E61 Wagon and other cars with transfer cases might have different mounting points so it might not be possible for all.
A good advice to all would be DIY enthusiasts. It is better to own two cars so that you can work on one while the other car is standing by ready to go to harbor freight to buy more tools or parts.
Great advice. I don't own two cars so I rent a U-Haul to get parts and leave my car parked until I get it going. The U-Haul costs me about 40.00-60.00 usd for 24 hours. Estimate as low mileage as possible so it will be even cheaper.
For, me I'd use uber
Jackstand life
You will benefit from shifting from park to neutral to reverse to neutral then adaptive shift from 1st tot 2nd and repeat that process twice with a 3 second delay between each shift. This is done with the oil temp at 40 deg celcius. This ensures that the transmission will have the exact correct amount of fluid as per ZF fluid fill instructions. After you reset the adaptations the vehicle will relearn the best shift pressures over approximately 60 klm of normal stop start traffic driving. Great video.
Dude! You just saved my car! God Bless! BTW, YOU MUST PUT IN 9 to 10 LITERS IN! Look at the BMW/ZF service manual for this. 6 Liters is NOT ENOUGH!
So cool to see the E46 in the background. IMHO the best looking 3 series ever. Keep it up Jason!
That's a e90 sir.. I own an e46. 👌🏻
@@Alpha_B95 Look in the background at the 6:30 mark :-) Thats an E46.
“The gasket is the gasket”. Great video, thanks ‘kid.
UUUUW...YOU ARE BACK!!!! PLEASE IN EVERYDAY....THANX YOUNG MAN!!!!!!
I bought my E46 6 years ago at 131k and your videos are the reason why It runs better now than it did when I bought it! 210k and running strong! I'm here now just to learn new tricks from a great teacher!
E46 is a different animal. Cannot be compared to the janky, plasticy, leaky, garbage that is the e9x and beyond chassis.
Glad you’re back I missed the realism of your videos
I had a harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop and transmission malfunction would come on as soon as car warmed up it would throw a check engine light and get stuck in a higher gear 4F8D gear ratio monitoring 5-4 (2007 335i). I changed fluid and pan didn't work, I changed mechatronic seal kit (didn't seem cracked) didn't work. So i connected to protools for bmw went into transmission functions and reset the adaptations in there and it fixed it, Been driving it for a week now everyday and it shifts great with no transmission malfunction.
I did my seals without the solenoids in a 2009 E87 with a ZF 6HP21 (in Australia) @ 230K's........yes 230Ks young !! I did not reset the adaptations and just drove it. Although the issues caused by the leaking seals had gone.... (slight flaring and not changing down smoothly), the software had "learnt" some poor "new" change patterns while it was flaring and poor changes - all the research I did all said that the software is "programmable" via driving style BUT it also said that it's a good idea to do the adaptations when you buy a used vehicle so it will "learn" your driving/shifting style. I found that after a few days of driving the software learnt my style and everything smoothed out anyway. I freaking love my BMW's.
Yeah eventually it will relearn
U are the Man U make it possible for anyone to own a bmw there is no support like yours on any other brand keep it up never leave us again
Best you-tuber he adds all the Information needed ! And a clear view on how to do the job step by step! Great videos !
Very good your video. Just making a correction, its transmission is a 6hp21, it is clearly seen by the design of the mechatronics.
All N54 engined 335i automatics came out with 6hp21 transmission which is a second generation transmission. What is confusing is that BMW calls the 6hp21 the 6hp19TU.
First generation: 6hp19z, 6hp26 and 6hp32
Second generation: 6hp21, 6hp28 and 6hp34
50skid is an icon in the bmw diy community
Why thank you!
Recently did this on my 6hp21, but I happened to break the pins on the connector of the mechatronics unit not, SO PLZ PEOPLE When your plugging it back in MAKE sure you get it in the correct orientation, otherwise you’ll have to spend 300 plus like I had to on another used unit.
Awesome video, thank you for your contributions to the car enthusiastic mechanics out there.
This guy is such a BMW community legend
If you drain and fill the fluid with an electric pump from the trans cooler line like I do the fluid can be reused in the event you're not sure about the solenoids and don't want to throw away brand new fluid to test them.
I actually modified the line with a Y valve so the fluid can be flushed in 10 minutes (make's me more likely to find time to do it every 25-30k miles)...the line pressure is only about 16-25PSI and the valve is rated for 80+ so there's no real downside plus the car becomes more servicable.
Very helpful and informative video 😃. I have an E90 whose transmission needs servicing. I appreciate this video. I live in an area wherein mechanics who don't really know what they're doing are willing and eager to experiment with your car.
I took my car to replace my bad turbocharger some months ago, that is the day I came back and decided to do it myself - Videos like these are really helpful. Thanks 😊
Just completed this job on a 2005 530i and if you follow it, it will come out awesome! One of the best DIY videos on YT! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
What was your symptom on the e60 before you put in the new solenoids?
@@aldoamen limp mode and when I ran a scan it listed a bad solenoid.
Thanks a lot, Jason, for this very informative video. It makes me feel less anxious about trying to repair a downshift issue from 2nd to 1st. My concern is getting the software to do the adapt shift mode things - because without that, the transmission may not work right! Argh!
I need to do this so bad got gear slip only ever get a day off work tho and worry I won’t have her back together for the next morning
Wow, you're a very talented instructor, and very easy to listen to. Can't believe anyone could possibly give this video a thumbs down.
If you have an xdrive and you feel that jolt or clunk when slowing down, or when accelerating or going up hill or around corners please try changing your transfer case fluid first. That 100% fixed this issue for me (2006 325xi). Just an FYI.
I wish I had an English version of INPA. Nice job 👍
Good vid, going to be a lot of people having to do this job in the near future as more of these cars get to the bmw diy community.
Also, I do believe you are supposed to reset adaptations when replacing solenoids but I may be wrong, great content as always.
I did reset adaptations at the end and showed how
Great complete tutorial on this topic. Thanks for this. It's surprising that 7+ liters of transmission fluid drained out; it looked like only 1 or 2 liters drained out.
It's great to see you back loving the content
OMFG DUDE YOUR SHIRT IS SO 🔥
YOU WOULD DEFINITELY WIN A DUNDIE
Ps please get a purple bandanna, I want to see prison Mike!
Great video. Good to know that not all DIY peeps have lifts and a big garage to attempt such a task. My garage is about the same size and I don't have a lift. I am having a sluggish shift from 2nd to 3rd. Not sure if I should do the full service or just the sleeves.
-I wonder what is the actual relevance of those four black sleeves...what kind of symptoms their poor condtion might cause? Thank you for the excellent video.
Fantastic video ! My trans on my 08 650 also makes a clicking sound when driving. Would that also be a symptom to look for ? The trans also surges when driving. Also is there a way to rest the adaption with out using the computer with software ?
I did my 2008 330d m sport auto, had 2 loose screws holding the valve body together, surprisingly. Its a good idea to check all screws. Gear box is running much smoother. Great job. 👍
Excellent video. Very clear instructions. Great audio and video quality.
I recommend watching other videos to capture a couple missed points, one being the shift sequence during the second fill (1st, 2nd, Rev, etc (not necessarily in this order).
Thanks for very good video Jason!. Glad to have you back making very good stuff here.
Very handy that fill pump.
EMERGENCY MY FRIEND IM FROM PUERTO RICO THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS I GOT A PROBLEM I DO EVERYTHING IN THE VIDEO BUT WHEN I REMOVE THE SOLENOID ANOTHER 1/2 SECTION SEPARED AND SOME CREW WITH SPRING COME OUT AND SOME BALLINS TOO...I NEED THE POSITION OF THOSE SPRINGS AND THE BALLINS...PLEASE HELP.😢😢😢😢😢
I nominate you for the best bmw diy dundee award
Hello would you know which is the solenoid valve 2 as a diagnostics computer shows that it might have a short but the resistances were all okay
A comment on another ZF tranny rebuild video mentioned that you should clean or replace the pistons behind the solenoids. Would such a thing be true?
Is this the same transmission ZF as on my 2006 Range Rover sports ? Was driving perfect and then just stopped and won't go into any gear's. looking for an indie to fix it for me in London 🙏
Thank you so much for this brilliant demo. I have BMW 320i with limp mood gear problem especially when cold. After changing the gear box oil the Fault code says gear lever switch pack and speed sensor. The garage (BSR Scotter Village Gainsborough) is not sure what to do next and asked me to ask you for your expert advice Please .
I’ve got faulty transmission reduced acceleration so do I change solenoids, sleeves, fluid? When we put it on the computer the fault says 3rd and 4th gear fault
Great video! I have a e90 335i, some times it goes to limp mode and lock the car in (5/6 gear) i have to delete the codes so I can keep driving normal.
Do you think this would fix the problem or should I buy a new transmission?
I made the mistake of reset the adaptations without doing the sleeves, solenoids and fluid service.. now it studders and hesitates when i drive at constant speed. It still makes the jerk from 2 to 1 when i stop. So my next thing is to do this job. Thanx!
did your problem get fixed? what did you do? i did the same dumb thing and reset adaptation without any service at all
@@prajp9795 I did nothing just drove it, and it made new adaptations and behaves like before hehe
@@vladito80 where you getting ratio clutch monitoring codes? cause i am 😅😓
@@prajp9795 I dont think i got any codes reguarding transmission after that.. but the studdering was around for a while, it didnt just go away fast.. maybe a few weeks.. and now it behaves like it did before.. i still havent had the chanse to do the transmissionservice.. i have to change the mecatronic sleeves and fill new oil..
Where do you buy the kit (solenoid etc.) being used in the video? Thanks.
Thank you for this video, was a big help with my 6HP26 in my 550i!!!
I run the Valvoline in this particular transmission in a 2010 E60 550i, no issues.
Another great DYI video, Thanks good job.
Outstanding video! I have two question for you please. 1. I also used the FEBI fluid instead ZF or BMW - I have read that it may not have been the smartest choice. Have you seen any issues (shift quality deterioration)? Do you think there are any issues with using this fluid in 6HP19? 2. After changing the fluid and resetting adaptation, I am still experiencing slight hesitation/a bit rough shift 2-3 only. Any ideas? I have not changed an mechatronic seals, etc. Thank you kindly in advance for any insight!
me too damn it.... have you solf the problem?
Man, thanks a lot for sharing all the process. Really fun video to watch and also I learnt so much. Great job 50sKid! 🙌🏻 🔧
Nice video, very clear and thorough. I am looking to do my E91 trans soon, so this was invaluable.
Which orientation those different length rubber sleeves go in the four holes. You mentioned the long one goes in the very left hole. Do you remember orientation on the other three sleeves?
Slush box work seemed intimidating but your video made it less so. Thanks.
This is a fantastic video extremely well presented great stuff thanks Baza 🇬🇧
Awesome video and this is exactly the trans I have but in an 09 X5 3.0i. I couldn't find a video on this trans it was driving me crazy.
The solenoids don't normally go bad unless this sleeves have been bad and solenoids have been working their butt off to get the pressure up high enough. That is normally what causes the solenoids to go bad. If the sleeves have been bad for a while then you may have solenoid issues but that's not very common. There are many fluids you can use in this transmission. The BMW fluid ZF fluid the one AR using pentosin ATF 1, and also the Valvoline I believe it is maxlife. The purpose of using Valvoline fluid if you have a transmission with the clutches are worn a little bit the Valvoline fluid is slightly thicker. Whenever you remove gritty transmission fluid which normally is clutch material and you put in back Sharif in fluid it's going to cause slippage. So it will cause a transmission to last longer. A lot of people in this applies to any transmission start having transmission issues get it serviced remove the gritty fluid out of it was just clutch material and then put in clean fluid that is Silky whatever and the next thing you know they lose the gear and it's because the fluid has gotten thinner. I have had four 530i and I have spent a lot of time dealing with that specific transmission. Overall it is a good unit but every 10 to 15 years you do need to change the valve body sleeves. Have a wonderful afternoon
great info
No, pentosin ATF 1 or Valvoline Maxlife are NOT the correct fluids for this transmission. You cannot use regular synthetic red colored ATF. You must use fluid that is specifically made for this transmission, either ZF Lifeguard 6 or Febi 34608. It is yellow in color.
Good morning, So I just watched your video about cables for INPA and BMW Scanner1.4. I see you put up the link to purchase the cable for INPA. Does the cable come with the INPA software as well? In the description, I saw that there was a CD in the package for cable on Amazon. Is that the INPA software?
Not trying to throw shade, but why didn't you split the valve body and replace the dampners? I have done this job several times and the dampners are always really flattened compared to stock. Just curious...
I'm not sure which part you're referring to. Do you have a part number so I can research?
@@50sKid When you split the two separate halves of the valve body and remove the separator plate there will be 7 accumulators/dampers. I am not aware of a part number. I don't think Real OEM shows the internal parts for the valve body, but I could be wrong. I get all my parts from Nat and Eriksson Industries, they specialize in ZF transmissions. I am sure if you watch videos from Gary Ferraro he talks about how worn down the dampeners get and shows side by sides of new versus old. When these wear down they effect the shift quality of the transmission.
thanks for the video, good idea on the long nose pliers for the connector sleeve
Don't even have a e90 (yet). still in the e36/e46 world!!!! but love watching your vid's!. Also bad for my wallet - first sold me a Milwaukee tools - now just opened the wallet for one of those pumps. Memory of my last (Very messy fluid change on my Sons e36 came flooding back! Have to change my other sons e46 on the next service.
Good video with a lot of good informations as usual 👌 good job buddy
Great video with a lot of explaining. I really appreciate it.
Man thanks for the video
Did you drain the torque converter too
I'm about to do mine
Almost but not quite remove fill plug BEFORE you remove drain plug. Air will enter pan as it drains via the fill plug and allow fluid to drain nice and smooth. Next tip. Remove all but the two pan bolts that are on opposite side of drain hole. As you begin to loosen pan, end with drain hole will drop down, allowing remaining fluid in pan to drain via drain hole and not over the sides of the pan. As flow through drain plug slows, gradually loosen last 2 drain pan bolts to allow more fluid to drain via drain hole. Once flow stops, remove last 2 pan bolts and pan. Much cleaner method. Lastly the pan bolts are ONE TIME USE ONLY and must be replaced after removal. The are aluminum and cannot be reused SAFELY as they cannot be safely retorqued to spec.
Almost, but not quite. I did remove the fill plug first. I've drained pans using the method you describe and I find it be more messy sometimes when the drain plug is on the shallow side of the pan -- often the remaining fluid will overspill the edges before managing to drain out of the hole. The bolts are not one time use and they are not aluminum.
Hi, great work! Why we love these cars, they are such a pain in the as! For ruff shifting, for - rev, there might be a lack of oil reason. Replacing solenoids is quite expensive. Also, you mixed different types of oil, who knows which was in before.
This is a very informative and educational video bro.
hi there! im planning to do this to mt car as well and i noticed you said not to use red AFT the brand I chose to go with is liquid molly 1800 AFT that is gold not red and purchased from fcp euro… the reviews say its great just wondering your opinion since i thought this one in particular would still be good thanks!
Hello, I have been following your content for a while and I think everyone agrees with me that it is one of the best on TH-cam. I own a BMW x3 2010 E83 3.0 automatic transmission GM. I replaced the transmission fluid with a product (ZF LifeguardFluid 6) My question to you is is it suitable or should I replace it again with Dixion 6 liquid
Jason, absolutely best 6hp19 video I’ve seen!! Wish I had seen this about a year ago . I did our 2007 530i transmission because it went into limp mode an would not allow the transmission to go into gear via locked the gear shifter. Had to use the red emergency lever to limp it home 2miles . Anyway I had a Solenoid go bad. Went to the junkyard and got the entire valve body an replaced it . But I used Valvoline max life because I had seen few others do that . It’s been about 12k miles an no issues. Actually doing better than ever before. Would you suggest I drain an swap filter an fluids to lifeguard? Or just leave it ? Because of the immediate rush I was in I reused the sleeves but they were ok. Since then I ordered them so I do plan to install them at some point . I’m just wondering when I do to go back with max life or the life guard since it’s all mixed already? Thanks for the great an best bmw videos !!
I would absolutely recommend you drain and flush and use the proper fluid. Use what I used, febi 34608 as its half the price of the ZF. Oembimmerparts has a great price on it!
I do the same in my 2009 528ix junkyard valve body an valvoline at oil over year ago an still running
@@50sKid thanks for the advice, I still need to acquire INPA myself. I have the cord but it came with no software on the disc provided. Plus I’m not very swift on the laptop . Lol
people have been running maxlife in these transmissions for years with no problems, it's the same spec.
I work on these cars for a living and will tell you that Max Life fluid will kill these units. It doesn't happen right away, it's a slow gradual death. Max Lofe only works in the GM built units. Not the ZF units. Use Febi, or Liqui Moly if you don't want to pay premium for the ZF fluid. Although, that fluid can be had for 13-18 dollars a quart if you look hard enough these days.
Salut dans quel situation tu remplace le mechatronic ? mes vitesses saute et tournent dans le vide . Après couper le contact le défaut disparaît . 🤔🤔🤔 défaut 4F8A
Excellent video, very helpful! Love your content :)
I followed every single step you did, but the engine is not started when I turned on the key even though I had the light on my dashboard. Do you have recommendation what would be the issue?
Perfect :) Literally just about to put my car on the lift and do this lol. Talk about timing
after resetting adaptation did you have to do a relearn process or just drive and enjoy the car?
Great video really helped I didn’t replace the solenoids, but my trans still will not go into park and won’t move under a load. I have an e70 so the shifter says park but you could still roll the vehicle. Any thoughts?
Parking prawl prolly broken I guess
Great video !! Did it completely fix it? No more light?
My 2011 335 with 100k miles started slipping and now doesn’t go into gear at all. Not sure if sleeves or splendid
Thanks for the indepth video man appreciate it
Didn’t have time to watch the entire video but I hope you did bridge seal and all the rubber pieces inside as well.
That would be the mechatronics seals. I did
Excellent walk through. I am looking at doing this on my Audi S4 with the same ZF6HP19 transmission. I have a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st but mine loses it's position and goes into limp mode. Error code reads shift position range sensor. Not sure if rebuilding the mechatronics will correct my main issue. A4's have the range sensor on the exterior of the tranny. A euro shop in town told me the S4 didn't have one and that rebuilding the mechatronics would correct it.
How’d it go
@BrokeMahWallet So I rebuilt the mechatronics with new solenoids and it shifts better but it did not fix the range position sensor fault that causes the tranny to go into limp mode. I have since figured out that the S4 does indeed have a range sensor, it's just built into the TCM. So basically I'll need the trans computer repaired.
i have a 2006 750i w a 6hp26, im about to replace the bridge seal and the 4 other vertical seals and replace to piston dampeners..... what do i need to do AFTER all that?
Did the fix hold up? Also, did you have to do a full relearn drive cycle procedure after resetting the adaptations or did you just drive normally?
My car shifts great when it's cold but garbage when hot. Might have to try this.
Thanks for the time stamps Jason! Keep up the great work. Is it necessary to change solenoids, or overkill?
I can’t say. Every trans has different internal wear in the valve body
Hi. First off, GREAT VID. your explaining and footage is excellent. thanx for this great vid. Ive got an Audi 3.0litre v6 diesel quattro. with gearbox ZF 6HP-19. Said in yer vid the hp-26 has the wiring inside, but my -19 does have it. the rest looks mostly the same as your box, except the pan and filter. (they seperate from each other). now, here my question. i cannot find replacement parts for the Audi like you got for the BMW. possible you could help me with a link to where find the Audi spares for her transmission?
forgot tomention the Audi is a 2006. B6/B7... i dont know
Hey man! Love your TH-cam channel. Just bought a ‘09 750iL and it’s having some issues shifting into D and R when it’s hot. It’ll pop into park and not want to go into gear. It’ll also take a few secs to get into gear as well, like the symptom you were having. Reving a small amount sometimes helps but it will thud into gear which isn’t a good sound. Definitely been trying to avoid that. It’s a zf 6speed transmission. Watching some of your videos and from what I’ve gathered, it may be the valve solenoids. I plan on servicing the the trans, solenoids, and sleeves, plugs etc. Does this sound like the right route to take? Thank you!
Great video. I am glad that I have my E46. Don't have to worry about having ISTA OR INPA.
Adaptations can be reset on the e46 too. Ya just usually don’t have to ;-)
PLEASE I NEED THE DIAGRAM OF THE SHIFH UPPER VALVE ..WHEN I WAS DOING THIS WORK THE SHIFH UPPER SEPARED AND SOME BALLS AND SPRINGS FELL OUT😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Subbed in a heartbeat.
I have a 2008 528i im having issues with the trans. It wont go into drive or reverse when its cold. I will have to turn off car and turn back on over and over and immediately put it in gear for it to work. Ince its warm it works most of the time. Under hard acceleration it will go into neutral also and ill have to power car off and back on. The obdII codes show torque converter clutch. I bought the sleeves and want to get the solenoids. But im hesitant on getting the torque clutch bc its a trans removal job. Do you think the sleeves and solenoids will fix the issue?
Hello, what scanner do you use and link for reprogramming?
Hello there,
I have 535i my transmission jerking from 1 to 2 gear in cold weather or morning when car parked more than 8hrs, after that car shifts as normal , no code show on dashboard, new solenoids bridge seal and tube , pan also been chase the issue in couple months but no luck, can you give me some advice
Thank
Did the solenoids solve the slow reverse engagement? I'm experiencing this after it is warmed up. Engages quickly when cold.
Hi I have a e60 530i and was having problems with my gear box, when it was cold star the car wouldn't go to drive, it would go back to park, then I decided to let it warm for 10-15 minutes and then the shifts would work, so I got the 4f81 code error and I decided to change the sleeves, filter, solenoides and after that the car startes shifting to drive in cold start (got all the parts from oembimmerparts) but I've notice (1 week from repair) that sometimes shifting up gets in with a kick, is that normal the first days? would that mean another transmision problem?
Respect to you this job scares the hell outta me
My e92 330d xdrive has had shifting problems for a while. It’s started by just revving up instead of shifting when driving. I also felt like small bumps from behind in 2-1 downshifts. Sometimes it jumped into some kind of neutral were it wouldn’t drive in reverse. Sometimes it also throws a faulty code “transmission malfunction” but when you restart the car it disappears and appears again after driving a bit. And now it has come to the point where the car barely drives farward sometimes, but when it does it runs great then the faulty code appears and it barely drives. Could changing sleaves and solinoids fix this or is the transmission unsavable?
Grateful for any tips or advice🙏
Did you fix this issue?
I was wondering I’m going to do mine tomorrow how much fluid did u end up putting in
Where can I find (ideally for free) the ista or inpa software to reset adaptations?
Superb video and narration. Thanks. I learned a lot.