A good advice to all would be DIY enthusiasts. It is better to own two cars so that you can work on one while the other car is standing by ready to go to harbor freight to buy more tools or parts.
Great advice. I don't own two cars so I rent a U-Haul to get parts and leave my car parked until I get it going. The U-Haul costs me about 40.00-60.00 usd for 24 hours. Estimate as low mileage as possible so it will be even cheaper.
Really appreciate the video. I was feeling really confident about doing this repair until you got to the part with resetting the adaptations. Where can I get more details on that? I understood the comment about the software, but not sure if that is PC software or something for a scan tool? Also, what cable is needed and what does it plug into?
There's even more plastic on the E90 than the E46, and I thought that was bad. BMW supposed to be premier product, you're paying good money, give us quality BMW! ie not cheap plastics :(
Recently did this on my 6hp21, but I happened to break the pins on the connector of the mechatronics unit not, SO PLZ PEOPLE When your plugging it back in MAKE sure you get it in the correct orientation, otherwise you’ll have to spend 300 plus like I had to on another used unit.
I did my seals without the solenoids in a 2009 E87 with a ZF 6HP21 (in Australia) @ 230K's........yes 230Ks young !! I did not reset the adaptations and just drove it. Although the issues caused by the leaking seals had gone.... (slight flaring and not changing down smoothly), the software had "learnt" some poor "new" change patterns while it was flaring and poor changes - all the research I did all said that the software is "programmable" via driving style BUT it also said that it's a good idea to do the adaptations when you buy a used vehicle so it will "learn" your driving/shifting style. I found that after a few days of driving the software learnt my style and everything smoothed out anyway. I freaking love my BMW's.
TOO ALL OF YOU WATCHING THIS. this is the rwd model without xdrive. if you have xdrive some more stuff has to come off to get the mechtronic sleeve out and the new one in. exhaust has to come off, as well as heat shield, and transfer case mounting bracket, as well as the front wheels driveshaft (only need to remove the end near the tc. replace those 4 bolts though as they are stretch tty bolts. since the tc bracket has to come off, might as well change that tc fluid too (takes bmw -df spec fluid which is about 40 usd a quart)
Outstanding video! I have two question for you please. 1. I also used the FEBI fluid instead ZF or BMW - I have read that it may not have been the smartest choice. Have you seen any issues (shift quality deterioration)? Do you think there are any issues with using this fluid in 6HP19? 2. After changing the fluid and resetting adaptation, I am still experiencing slight hesitation/a bit rough shift 2-3 only. Any ideas? I have not changed an mechatronic seals, etc. Thank you kindly in advance for any insight!
I made the mistake of reset the adaptations without doing the sleeves, solenoids and fluid service.. now it studders and hesitates when i drive at constant speed. It still makes the jerk from 2 to 1 when i stop. So my next thing is to do this job. Thanx!
@@prajp9795 I dont think i got any codes reguarding transmission after that.. but the studdering was around for a while, it didnt just go away fast.. maybe a few weeks.. and now it behaves like it did before.. i still havent had the chanse to do the transmissionservice.. i have to change the mecatronic sleeves and fill new oil..
Is this the same transmission ZF as on my 2006 Range Rover sports ? Was driving perfect and then just stopped and won't go into any gear's. looking for an indie to fix it for me in London 🙏
If you drain and fill the fluid with an electric pump from the trans cooler line like I do the fluid can be reused in the event you're not sure about the solenoids and don't want to throw away brand new fluid to test them. I actually modified the line with a Y valve so the fluid can be flushed in 10 minutes (make's me more likely to find time to do it every 25-30k miles)...the line pressure is only about 16-25PSI and the valve is rated for 80+ so there's no real downside plus the car becomes more servicable.
Almost but not quite remove fill plug BEFORE you remove drain plug. Air will enter pan as it drains via the fill plug and allow fluid to drain nice and smooth. Next tip. Remove all but the two pan bolts that are on opposite side of drain hole. As you begin to loosen pan, end with drain hole will drop down, allowing remaining fluid in pan to drain via drain hole and not over the sides of the pan. As flow through drain plug slows, gradually loosen last 2 drain pan bolts to allow more fluid to drain via drain hole. Once flow stops, remove last 2 pan bolts and pan. Much cleaner method. Lastly the pan bolts are ONE TIME USE ONLY and must be replaced after removal. The are aluminum and cannot be reused SAFELY as they cannot be safely retorqued to spec.
Almost, but not quite. I did remove the fill plug first. I've drained pans using the method you describe and I find it be more messy sometimes when the drain plug is on the shallow side of the pan -- often the remaining fluid will overspill the edges before managing to drain out of the hole. The bolts are not one time use and they are not aluminum.
Great video! I have a e90 335i, some times it goes to limp mode and lock the car in (5/6 gear) i have to delete the codes so I can keep driving normal. Do you think this would fix the problem or should I buy a new transmission?
-I wonder what is the actual relevance of those four black sleeves...what kind of symptoms their poor condtion might cause? Thank you for the excellent video.
I had a harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop and transmission malfunction would come on as soon as car warmed up it would throw a check engine light and get stuck in a higher gear 4F8D gear ratio monitoring 5-4 (2007 335i). I changed fluid and pan didn't work, I changed mechatronic seal kit (didn't seem cracked) didn't work. So i connected to protools for bmw went into transmission functions and reset the adaptations in there and it fixed it, Been driving it for a week now everyday and it shifts great with no transmission malfunction.
Fantastic video ! My trans on my 08 650 also makes a clicking sound when driving. Would that also be a symptom to look for ? The trans also surges when driving. Also is there a way to rest the adaption with out using the computer with software ?
Hello there, I have 535i my transmission jerking from 1 to 2 gear in cold weather or morning when car parked more than 8hrs, after that car shifts as normal , no code show on dashboard, new solenoids bridge seal and tube , pan also been chase the issue in couple months but no luck, can you give me some advice Thank
Jason, absolutely best 6hp19 video I’ve seen!! Wish I had seen this about a year ago . I did our 2007 530i transmission because it went into limp mode an would not allow the transmission to go into gear via locked the gear shifter. Had to use the red emergency lever to limp it home 2miles . Anyway I had a Solenoid go bad. Went to the junkyard and got the entire valve body an replaced it . But I used Valvoline max life because I had seen few others do that . It’s been about 12k miles an no issues. Actually doing better than ever before. Would you suggest I drain an swap filter an fluids to lifeguard? Or just leave it ? Because of the immediate rush I was in I reused the sleeves but they were ok. Since then I ordered them so I do plan to install them at some point . I’m just wondering when I do to go back with max life or the life guard since it’s all mixed already? Thanks for the great an best bmw videos !!
I would absolutely recommend you drain and flush and use the proper fluid. Use what I used, febi 34608 as its half the price of the ZF. Oembimmerparts has a great price on it!
@@50sKid thanks for the advice, I still need to acquire INPA myself. I have the cord but it came with no software on the disc provided. Plus I’m not very swift on the laptop . Lol
I work on these cars for a living and will tell you that Max Life fluid will kill these units. It doesn't happen right away, it's a slow gradual death. Max Lofe only works in the GM built units. Not the ZF units. Use Febi, or Liqui Moly if you don't want to pay premium for the ZF fluid. Although, that fluid can be had for 13-18 dollars a quart if you look hard enough these days.
Hey there. Can you help me as I'm getting a 421342 code on a BMW F30. Error says: Position specification undesired power transmission in Neutral detected!!!!
EMERGENCY MY FRIEND IM FROM PUERTO RICO THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS I GOT A PROBLEM I DO EVERYTHING IN THE VIDEO BUT WHEN I REMOVE THE SOLENOID ANOTHER 1/2 SECTION SEPARED AND SOME CREW WITH SPRING COME OUT AND SOME BALLINS TOO...I NEED THE POSITION OF THOSE SPRINGS AND THE BALLINS...PLEASE HELP.😢😢😢😢😢
I have some issues with my 08 528i transmission replaced solenoids and mechatronic sleeves because had a transmission malfunction message and wouldn’t come out of park. Changed everything you did in this video now it goes in gear but lugs and tries to kill the engine. Any ideas?
I’ve got faulty transmission reduced acceleration so do I change solenoids, sleeves, fluid? When we put it on the computer the fault says 3rd and 4th gear fault
You will benefit from shifting from park to neutral to reverse to neutral then adaptive shift from 1st tot 2nd and repeat that process twice with a 3 second delay between each shift. This is done with the oil temp at 40 deg celcius. This ensures that the transmission will have the exact correct amount of fluid as per ZF fluid fill instructions. After you reset the adaptations the vehicle will relearn the best shift pressures over approximately 60 klm of normal stop start traffic driving. Great video.
Very helpful and informative video 😃. I have an E90 whose transmission needs servicing. I appreciate this video. I live in an area wherein mechanics who don't really know what they're doing are willing and eager to experiment with your car. I took my car to replace my bad turbocharger some months ago, that is the day I came back and decided to do it myself - Videos like these are really helpful. Thanks 😊
I'm sitting on my 2001 e46 with lifetime fill.. 187K miles... never been changed.....I'm thinking lifetime fill my be lifetime fill.. transmission shifts fine, it is the ZF, never been serviced, never rebuilt.. still shifts smooth...
@@50sKid getting to spitting distance of 200K and over 20 years old seems lifetime enough for a car these days! This one will eventually be rebuilt (entire car).. right now it runs and drives just fine (well after a new valve cover, disa valve, all the bushings, all the gaskets replaced, new radiator (after 185K miles) new alternator (after 170K miles) ......
Thanks a lot, Jason, for this very informative video. It makes me feel less anxious about trying to repair a downshift issue from 2nd to 1st. My concern is getting the software to do the adapt shift mode things - because without that, the transmission may not work right! Argh!
Not trying to throw shade, but why didn't you split the valve body and replace the dampners? I have done this job several times and the dampners are always really flattened compared to stock. Just curious...
@@50sKid When you split the two separate halves of the valve body and remove the separator plate there will be 7 accumulators/dampers. I am not aware of a part number. I don't think Real OEM shows the internal parts for the valve body, but I could be wrong. I get all my parts from Nat and Eriksson Industries, they specialize in ZF transmissions. I am sure if you watch videos from Gary Ferraro he talks about how worn down the dampeners get and shows side by sides of new versus old. When these wear down they effect the shift quality of the transmission.
Very good your video. Just making a correction, its transmission is a 6hp21, it is clearly seen by the design of the mechatronics. All N54 engined 335i automatics came out with 6hp21 transmission which is a second generation transmission. What is confusing is that BMW calls the 6hp21 the 6hp19TU. First generation: 6hp19z, 6hp26 and 6hp32 Second generation: 6hp21, 6hp28 and 6hp34
Great video! Just curious: did You consider DKG instead of normal automatic? I haven't seen any e90 335i with it (only e92). Btw you should make video about your favourite junkyard. You mention it very ofthen when it comes to used parts.
I did my 2008 330d m sport auto, had 2 loose screws holding the valve body together, surprisingly. Its a good idea to check all screws. Gear box is running much smoother. Great job. 👍
My e92 330d xdrive has had shifting problems for a while. It’s started by just revving up instead of shifting when driving. I also felt like small bumps from behind in 2-1 downshifts. Sometimes it jumped into some kind of neutral were it wouldn’t drive in reverse. Sometimes it also throws a faulty code “transmission malfunction” but when you restart the car it disappears and appears again after driving a bit. And now it has come to the point where the car barely drives farward sometimes, but when it does it runs great then the faulty code appears and it barely drives. Could changing sleaves and solinoids fix this or is the transmission unsavable? Grateful for any tips or advice🙏
adaptations should never be reset unless a major overhaul like mechatronics unit replacements, solenoids, clutches is done. if you reset adaptations, computer this use default values during gear changes and end of burning cluthes fast with in 2 -3 years. There is a reason, mechatronics and tcu remembers and keeps learning these values
It learns those adaptations very quickly, within a few drives. You’re not going to burn the clutches out. Think about it. A brand new car essentially has no adaptations stored. If what you say is true, all transmissions would have burned out 3 years later lol
The solenoids don't normally go bad unless this sleeves have been bad and solenoids have been working their butt off to get the pressure up high enough. That is normally what causes the solenoids to go bad. If the sleeves have been bad for a while then you may have solenoid issues but that's not very common. There are many fluids you can use in this transmission. The BMW fluid ZF fluid the one AR using pentosin ATF 1, and also the Valvoline I believe it is maxlife. The purpose of using Valvoline fluid if you have a transmission with the clutches are worn a little bit the Valvoline fluid is slightly thicker. Whenever you remove gritty transmission fluid which normally is clutch material and you put in back Sharif in fluid it's going to cause slippage. So it will cause a transmission to last longer. A lot of people in this applies to any transmission start having transmission issues get it serviced remove the gritty fluid out of it was just clutch material and then put in clean fluid that is Silky whatever and the next thing you know they lose the gear and it's because the fluid has gotten thinner. I have had four 530i and I have spent a lot of time dealing with that specific transmission. Overall it is a good unit but every 10 to 15 years you do need to change the valve body sleeves. Have a wonderful afternoon
No, pentosin ATF 1 or Valvoline Maxlife are NOT the correct fluids for this transmission. You cannot use regular synthetic red colored ATF. You must use fluid that is specifically made for this transmission, either ZF Lifeguard 6 or Febi 34608. It is yellow in color.
Did the fix hold up? Also, did you have to do a full relearn drive cycle procedure after resetting the adaptations or did you just drive normally? My car shifts great when it's cold but garbage when hot. Might have to try this.
If you have an xdrive and you feel that jolt or clunk when slowing down, or when accelerating or going up hill or around corners please try changing your transfer case fluid first. That 100% fixed this issue for me (2006 325xi). Just an FYI.
I bought my E46 6 years ago at 131k and your videos are the reason why It runs better now than it did when I bought it! 210k and running strong! I'm here now just to learn new tricks from a great teacher!
I've been looking up if you are supposed to reset adaptations, and you are NOT supposed to ever reset adaptations unless you do a full rebuild. You are supposed to just drive your car for 500+ miles, and it will reset/relearn by itself. Ask ZF, xHP, or other people that specialize in these transmissions......resetting the adaptations is a bad idea, unless you do a full rebuild.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
A good advice to all would be DIY enthusiasts. It is better to own two cars so that you can work on one while the other car is standing by ready to go to harbor freight to buy more tools or parts.
Great advice. I don't own two cars so I rent a U-Haul to get parts and leave my car parked until I get it going. The U-Haul costs me about 40.00-60.00 usd for 24 hours. Estimate as low mileage as possible so it will be even cheaper.
For, me I'd use uber
Great video !! Did it completely fix it? No more light?
Really appreciate the video. I was feeling really confident about doing this repair until you got to the part with resetting the adaptations. Where can I get more details on that? I understood the comment about the software, but not sure if that is PC software or something for a scan tool? Also, what cable is needed and what does it plug into?
Also, my car is a 2003 Z4 (HP5). I don't see the parts available on oembimmer.com Other suggestions on where to get the parts? Where are you located?
There's even more plastic on the E90 than the E46, and I thought that was bad. BMW supposed to be premier product, you're paying good money, give us quality BMW! ie not cheap plastics :(
Recently did this on my 6hp21, but I happened to break the pins on the connector of the mechatronics unit not, SO PLZ PEOPLE When your plugging it back in MAKE sure you get it in the correct orientation, otherwise you’ll have to spend 300 plus like I had to on another used unit.
So cool to see the E46 in the background. IMHO the best looking 3 series ever. Keep it up Jason!
That's a e90 sir.. I own an e46. 👌🏻
@@bambolamar2797 Look in the background at the 6:30 mark :-) Thats an E46.
I did my seals without the solenoids in a 2009 E87 with a ZF 6HP21 (in Australia) @ 230K's........yes 230Ks young !! I did not reset the adaptations and just drove it. Although the issues caused by the leaking seals had gone.... (slight flaring and not changing down smoothly), the software had "learnt" some poor "new" change patterns while it was flaring and poor changes - all the research I did all said that the software is "programmable" via driving style BUT it also said that it's a good idea to do the adaptations when you buy a used vehicle so it will "learn" your driving/shifting style. I found that after a few days of driving the software learnt my style and everything smoothed out anyway. I freaking love my BMW's.
Yeah eventually it will relearn
TOO ALL OF YOU WATCHING THIS. this is the rwd model without xdrive. if you have xdrive some more stuff has to come off to get the mechtronic sleeve out and the new one in. exhaust has to come off, as well as heat shield, and transfer case mounting bracket, as well as the front wheels driveshaft (only need to remove the end near the tc. replace those 4 bolts though as they are stretch tty bolts. since the tc bracket has to come off, might as well change that tc fluid too (takes bmw -df spec fluid which is about 40 usd a quart)
UUUUW...YOU ARE BACK!!!! PLEASE IN EVERYDAY....THANX YOUNG MAN!!!!!!
Awesome video, thank you for your contributions to the car enthusiastic mechanics out there.
Outstanding video! I have two question for you please. 1. I also used the FEBI fluid instead ZF or BMW - I have read that it may not have been the smartest choice. Have you seen any issues (shift quality deterioration)? Do you think there are any issues with using this fluid in 6HP19? 2. After changing the fluid and resetting adaptation, I am still experiencing slight hesitation/a bit rough shift 2-3 only. Any ideas? I have not changed an mechatronic seals, etc. Thank you kindly in advance for any insight!
me too damn it.... have you solf the problem?
Bought it. And then on the way home went into limp mode. Sounds about right. Beamers are junk. Lol
Slush box work seemed intimidating but your video made it less so. Thanks.
“The gasket is the gasket”. Great video, thanks ‘kid.
I wish I had an English version of INPA. Nice job 👍
I made the mistake of reset the adaptations without doing the sleeves, solenoids and fluid service.. now it studders and hesitates when i drive at constant speed. It still makes the jerk from 2 to 1 when i stop. So my next thing is to do this job. Thanx!
did your problem get fixed? what did you do? i did the same dumb thing and reset adaptation without any service at all
@@prajp9795 I did nothing just drove it, and it made new adaptations and behaves like before hehe
@@vladito80 where you getting ratio clutch monitoring codes? cause i am 😅😓
@@prajp9795 I dont think i got any codes reguarding transmission after that.. but the studdering was around for a while, it didnt just go away fast.. maybe a few weeks.. and now it behaves like it did before.. i still havent had the chanse to do the transmissionservice.. i have to change the mecatronic sleeves and fill new oil..
Dude! You just saved my car! God Bless! BTW, YOU MUST PUT IN 9 to 10 LITERS IN! Look at the BMW/ZF service manual for this. 6 Liters is NOT ENOUGH!
Good vid, going to be a lot of people having to do this job in the near future as more of these cars get to the bmw diy community.
Gotta say. No rust at all on your E90. My 2012 E92 is much more rusty because it has always lived up in the north.
What’s rust?
Is this the same transmission ZF as on my 2006 Range Rover sports ? Was driving perfect and then just stopped and won't go into any gear's. looking for an indie to fix it for me in London 🙏
If you drain and fill the fluid with an electric pump from the trans cooler line like I do the fluid can be reused in the event you're not sure about the solenoids and don't want to throw away brand new fluid to test them.
I actually modified the line with a Y valve so the fluid can be flushed in 10 minutes (make's me more likely to find time to do it every 25-30k miles)...the line pressure is only about 16-25PSI and the valve is rated for 80+ so there's no real downside plus the car becomes more servicable.
Almost but not quite remove fill plug BEFORE you remove drain plug. Air will enter pan as it drains via the fill plug and allow fluid to drain nice and smooth. Next tip. Remove all but the two pan bolts that are on opposite side of drain hole. As you begin to loosen pan, end with drain hole will drop down, allowing remaining fluid in pan to drain via drain hole and not over the sides of the pan. As flow through drain plug slows, gradually loosen last 2 drain pan bolts to allow more fluid to drain via drain hole. Once flow stops, remove last 2 pan bolts and pan. Much cleaner method. Lastly the pan bolts are ONE TIME USE ONLY and must be replaced after removal. The are aluminum and cannot be reused SAFELY as they cannot be safely retorqued to spec.
Almost, but not quite. I did remove the fill plug first. I've drained pans using the method you describe and I find it be more messy sometimes when the drain plug is on the shallow side of the pan -- often the remaining fluid will overspill the edges before managing to drain out of the hole. The bolts are not one time use and they are not aluminum.
U are the Man U make it possible for anyone to own a bmw there is no support like yours on any other brand keep it up never leave us again
Great video! I have a e90 335i, some times it goes to limp mode and lock the car in (5/6 gear) i have to delete the codes so I can keep driving normal.
Do you think this would fix the problem or should I buy a new transmission?
A comment on another ZF tranny rebuild video mentioned that you should clean or replace the pistons behind the solenoids. Would such a thing be true?
Also, I do believe you are supposed to reset adaptations when replacing solenoids but I may be wrong, great content as always.
I did reset adaptations at the end and showed how
-I wonder what is the actual relevance of those four black sleeves...what kind of symptoms their poor condtion might cause? Thank you for the excellent video.
I had a harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop and transmission malfunction would come on as soon as car warmed up it would throw a check engine light and get stuck in a higher gear 4F8D gear ratio monitoring 5-4 (2007 335i). I changed fluid and pan didn't work, I changed mechatronic seal kit (didn't seem cracked) didn't work. So i connected to protools for bmw went into transmission functions and reset the adaptations in there and it fixed it, Been driving it for a week now everyday and it shifts great with no transmission malfunction.
Love it
Fantastic video ! My trans on my 08 650 also makes a clicking sound when driving. Would that also be a symptom to look for ? The trans also surges when driving. Also is there a way to rest the adaption with out using the computer with software ?
Hello there,
I have 535i my transmission jerking from 1 to 2 gear in cold weather or morning when car parked more than 8hrs, after that car shifts as normal , no code show on dashboard, new solenoids bridge seal and tube , pan also been chase the issue in couple months but no luck, can you give me some advice
Thank
Jason, absolutely best 6hp19 video I’ve seen!! Wish I had seen this about a year ago . I did our 2007 530i transmission because it went into limp mode an would not allow the transmission to go into gear via locked the gear shifter. Had to use the red emergency lever to limp it home 2miles . Anyway I had a Solenoid go bad. Went to the junkyard and got the entire valve body an replaced it . But I used Valvoline max life because I had seen few others do that . It’s been about 12k miles an no issues. Actually doing better than ever before. Would you suggest I drain an swap filter an fluids to lifeguard? Or just leave it ? Because of the immediate rush I was in I reused the sleeves but they were ok. Since then I ordered them so I do plan to install them at some point . I’m just wondering when I do to go back with max life or the life guard since it’s all mixed already? Thanks for the great an best bmw videos !!
I would absolutely recommend you drain and flush and use the proper fluid. Use what I used, febi 34608 as its half the price of the ZF. Oembimmerparts has a great price on it!
I do the same in my 2009 528ix junkyard valve body an valvoline at oil over year ago an still running
@@50sKid thanks for the advice, I still need to acquire INPA myself. I have the cord but it came with no software on the disc provided. Plus I’m not very swift on the laptop . Lol
people have been running maxlife in these transmissions for years with no problems, it's the same spec.
I work on these cars for a living and will tell you that Max Life fluid will kill these units. It doesn't happen right away, it's a slow gradual death. Max Lofe only works in the GM built units. Not the ZF units. Use Febi, or Liqui Moly if you don't want to pay premium for the ZF fluid. Although, that fluid can be had for 13-18 dollars a quart if you look hard enough these days.
Hey there. Can you help me as I'm getting a 421342 code on a BMW F30. Error says: Position specification undesired power transmission in Neutral detected!!!!
This is a fantastic video extremely well presented great stuff thanks Baza 🇬🇧
Another great DYI video, Thanks good job.
EMERGENCY MY FRIEND IM FROM PUERTO RICO THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS I GOT A PROBLEM I DO EVERYTHING IN THE VIDEO BUT WHEN I REMOVE THE SOLENOID ANOTHER 1/2 SECTION SEPARED AND SOME CREW WITH SPRING COME OUT AND SOME BALLINS TOO...I NEED THE POSITION OF THOSE SPRINGS AND THE BALLINS...PLEASE HELP.😢😢😢😢😢
I have some issues with my 08 528i transmission replaced solenoids and mechatronic sleeves because had a transmission malfunction message and wouldn’t come out of park. Changed everything you did in this video now it goes in gear but lugs and tries to kill the engine. Any ideas?
I’ve got faulty transmission reduced acceleration so do I change solenoids, sleeves, fluid? When we put it on the computer the fault says 3rd and 4th gear fault
You will benefit from shifting from park to neutral to reverse to neutral then adaptive shift from 1st tot 2nd and repeat that process twice with a 3 second delay between each shift. This is done with the oil temp at 40 deg celcius. This ensures that the transmission will have the exact correct amount of fluid as per ZF fluid fill instructions. After you reset the adaptations the vehicle will relearn the best shift pressures over approximately 60 klm of normal stop start traffic driving. Great video.
PLEASE I NEED THE DIAGRAM OF THE SHIFH UPPER VALVE ..WHEN I WAS DOING THIS WORK THE SHIFH UPPER SEPARED AND SOME BALLS AND SPRINGS FELL OUT😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Very helpful and informative video 😃. I have an E90 whose transmission needs servicing. I appreciate this video. I live in an area wherein mechanics who don't really know what they're doing are willing and eager to experiment with your car.
I took my car to replace my bad turbocharger some months ago, that is the day I came back and decided to do it myself - Videos like these are really helpful. Thanks 😊
So my 2008 335i likes to lounge when i let go of gas sometimes. It almost feels like a delay in getting out of gear. What could be the problem?
I'm sitting on my 2001 e46 with lifetime fill.. 187K miles... never been changed.....I'm thinking lifetime fill my be lifetime fill.. transmission shifts fine, it is the ZF, never been serviced, never rebuilt.. still shifts smooth...
Fingers crossed!
@@50sKid getting to spitting distance of 200K and over 20 years old seems lifetime enough for a car these days! This one will eventually be rebuilt (entire car).. right now it runs and drives just fine (well after a new valve cover, disa valve, all the bushings, all the gaskets replaced, new radiator (after 185K miles) new alternator (after 170K miles) ......
Can you update the links? They are dead. I need to do this on my trans and I am having issues finding the kits. And no idea what all parts to order.
Man, thanks a lot for sharing all the process. Really fun video to watch and also I learnt so much. Great job 50sKid! 🙌🏻 🔧
Hello, what scanner do you use and link for reprogramming?
shold not you have calculated how much came out and than put the exactly same amount? how do you know you drained the whole 7 liter?
Excellent video, very helpful! Love your content :)
OMFG DUDE YOUR SHIRT IS SO 🔥
YOU WOULD DEFINITELY WIN A DUNDIE
Ps please get a purple bandanna, I want to see prison Mike!
Thanks a lot, Jason, for this very informative video. It makes me feel less anxious about trying to repair a downshift issue from 2nd to 1st. My concern is getting the software to do the adapt shift mode things - because without that, the transmission may not work right! Argh!
I need to do this so bad got gear slip only ever get a day off work tho and worry I won’t have her back together for the next morning
What are you talking about? it is lifetime. the lifetime of a BMW is 50k.
Not trying to throw shade, but why didn't you split the valve body and replace the dampners? I have done this job several times and the dampners are always really flattened compared to stock. Just curious...
I'm not sure which part you're referring to. Do you have a part number so I can research?
@@50sKid When you split the two separate halves of the valve body and remove the separator plate there will be 7 accumulators/dampers. I am not aware of a part number. I don't think Real OEM shows the internal parts for the valve body, but I could be wrong. I get all my parts from Nat and Eriksson Industries, they specialize in ZF transmissions. I am sure if you watch videos from Gary Ferraro he talks about how worn down the dampeners get and shows side by sides of new versus old. When these wear down they effect the shift quality of the transmission.
6hp28 Egs electric control of the transmission selenoid valve 2. Can you help me?
Hey man, I’d be really cool if your next project is a EV! :) thanks for keeping my e46 running
Very good your video. Just making a correction, its transmission is a 6hp21, it is clearly seen by the design of the mechatronics.
All N54 engined 335i automatics came out with 6hp21 transmission which is a second generation transmission. What is confusing is that BMW calls the 6hp21 the 6hp19TU.
First generation: 6hp19z, 6hp26 and 6hp32
Second generation: 6hp21, 6hp28 and 6hp34
Great video! Just curious: did You consider DKG instead of normal automatic? I haven't seen any e90 335i with it (only e92). Btw you should make video about your favourite junkyard. You mention it very ofthen when it comes to used parts.
I believe that wasn’t offered till the 2009-
2010 years
I’ve done a video at lkq before. Search my channel!
What it's a correct temperature function on a transmission bmw 335i 2008 E92??
ITS PRONOUNCED “BEEMER” NOT “BIMMER” ! Lol I don’t know why that bothered me so much.
Thanks for the time stamps Jason! Keep up the great work. Is it necessary to change solenoids, or overkill?
I can’t say. Every trans has different internal wear in the valve body
Is this the same gearbox like the zf6hp19z on the N43?
Where do you buy the kit (solenoid etc.) being used in the video? Thanks.
Thank you for this video, was a big help with my 6HP26 in my 550i!!!
I didn't see where you shift through rev and drive on stands for 30 sec thenbone final top off.
I did my 2008 330d m sport auto, had 2 loose screws holding the valve body together, surprisingly. Its a good idea to check all screws. Gear box is running much smoother. Great job. 👍
I would have replaced that plastic me chat tonight plate. Plastic gets brittle with heat over time.
Perfect :) Literally just about to put my car on the lift and do this lol. Talk about timing
This is a very informative and educational video bro.
Where can I find (ideally for free) the ista or inpa software to reset adaptations?
My e92 330d xdrive has had shifting problems for a while. It’s started by just revving up instead of shifting when driving. I also felt like small bumps from behind in 2-1 downshifts. Sometimes it jumped into some kind of neutral were it wouldn’t drive in reverse. Sometimes it also throws a faulty code “transmission malfunction” but when you restart the car it disappears and appears again after driving a bit. And now it has come to the point where the car barely drives farward sometimes, but when it does it runs great then the faulty code appears and it barely drives. Could changing sleaves and solinoids fix this or is the transmission unsavable?
Grateful for any tips or advice🙏
Did you fix this issue?
Can I buy solenoids? Can’t get my hands on em here in Australia
thanks for the video, good idea on the long nose pliers for the connector sleeve
Nice video, very clear and thorough. I am looking to do my E91 trans soon, so this was invaluable.
adaptations should never be reset unless a major overhaul like mechatronics unit replacements, solenoids, clutches is done. if you reset adaptations, computer this use default values during gear changes and end of burning cluthes fast with in 2 -3 years. There is a reason, mechatronics and tcu remembers and keeps learning these values
It learns those adaptations very quickly, within a few drives. You’re not going to burn the clutches out. Think about it. A brand new car essentially has no adaptations stored. If what you say is true, all transmissions would have burned out 3 years later lol
Wow, you're a very talented instructor, and very easy to listen to. Can't believe anyone could possibly give this video a thumbs down.
Didn’t have time to watch the entire video but I hope you did bridge seal and all the rubber pieces inside as well.
That would be the mechatronics seals. I did
I did mines, transmission is stuck in park any clue why ?
has anyone ever told you that you could be dana white's stunt double
Thanks for very good video Jason!. Glad to have you back making very good stuff here.
Very handy that fill pump.
Good info
Good video with a lot of good informations as usual 👌 good job buddy
The solenoids don't normally go bad unless this sleeves have been bad and solenoids have been working their butt off to get the pressure up high enough. That is normally what causes the solenoids to go bad. If the sleeves have been bad for a while then you may have solenoid issues but that's not very common. There are many fluids you can use in this transmission. The BMW fluid ZF fluid the one AR using pentosin ATF 1, and also the Valvoline I believe it is maxlife. The purpose of using Valvoline fluid if you have a transmission with the clutches are worn a little bit the Valvoline fluid is slightly thicker. Whenever you remove gritty transmission fluid which normally is clutch material and you put in back Sharif in fluid it's going to cause slippage. So it will cause a transmission to last longer. A lot of people in this applies to any transmission start having transmission issues get it serviced remove the gritty fluid out of it was just clutch material and then put in clean fluid that is Silky whatever and the next thing you know they lose the gear and it's because the fluid has gotten thinner. I have had four 530i and I have spent a lot of time dealing with that specific transmission. Overall it is a good unit but every 10 to 15 years you do need to change the valve body sleeves. Have a wonderful afternoon
great info
No, pentosin ATF 1 or Valvoline Maxlife are NOT the correct fluids for this transmission. You cannot use regular synthetic red colored ATF. You must use fluid that is specifically made for this transmission, either ZF Lifeguard 6 or Febi 34608. It is yellow in color.
Why are you measuring in metrics and not feet and stones and clouds per mountains.
Thanks for the indepth video man appreciate it
I actually made my own with a pump garden sprayer and a connecting hose. Just stick the hose into the fill hole to fill it up. Much cheaper option.
Good idea. just put a hose barb on the end and your good to go.
Glad you’re back I missed the realism of your videos
Have to shift through the gears after the initial fill
This guy is such a BMW community legend
Did the fix hold up? Also, did you have to do a full relearn drive cycle procedure after resetting the adaptations or did you just drive normally?
My car shifts great when it's cold but garbage when hot. Might have to try this.
Well made video and also a good job. Thanks.
awesome video, thank you
Car won’t start or crack at all after it
Just replaced my solenoids and now my car won’t come out of park lol
Realign the shaft piston with the shft pins on the valve body.
@ 12:10 "that's what she said".......
It's great to see you back loving the content
hy where find pirated INPA ?
If you have an xdrive and you feel that jolt or clunk when slowing down, or when accelerating or going up hill or around corners please try changing your transfer case fluid first. That 100% fixed this issue for me (2006 325xi). Just an FYI.
Nice video. Thank you
I bought my E46 6 years ago at 131k and your videos are the reason why It runs better now than it did when I bought it! 210k and running strong! I'm here now just to learn new tricks from a great teacher!
E46 is a different animal. Cannot be compared to the janky, plasticy, leaky, garbage that is the e9x and beyond chassis.
I've been looking up if you are supposed to reset adaptations, and you are NOT supposed to ever reset adaptations unless you do a full rebuild. You are supposed to just drive your car for 500+ miles, and it will reset/relearn by itself. Ask ZF, xHP, or other people that specialize in these transmissions......resetting the adaptations is a bad idea, unless you do a full rebuild.
Great vid pal. What impact ratchet are you using? Interested in buying one myself. Would you have a recommended torque setting?