How to remove and replace a rotted fence post anchored in concrete
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- On this video I will show you how to remove a rotted fence post and the old concrete anchor. Also you will show you how to dig and pour a new cement anchor as well as leveling the fence 4x4 post.
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very good video. Much better than the big channels that just talk and talk and never show anything.
Thank you so much.
This is the best, clearest, most detailed and most concise tutorial I've seen.
Thank you so much Marvin . See you around!
Thank you for sharing your video. Tomorrow, I'm helping a friend replace 3 posts. Your video helped me understand what we need to do.
All the best!
Jim, thanks a lot for sharing . Good luck with your project. Remember to buy extra cement in case you need it. You can return it if you don't use it.
Great video! One of my posts just gave up in 90mph winds, same as a few others as I didn't know what to do i'd overcomplicated it in my head, now i'm ready to go.
Thank you Terry!!! I have tons of other videos. See you around!
Thank you for showing it's possible to brute force it with a shovel. I don't have fancy tools, or trucks, or chains, so this is really helpful. Thank you x a million
Thank you Hannah. Take your time. Rest often. It is hard work.
Extremely useful video, thank you!
Mission accomplished! Thanks again for your help!
I think for this situation this was the easiest method. Others mentioning chipping concrete or using a jack I think they both work but depends. If your ground is soft digging is easier. I made a video with my popular fence build of removing old posts and left this part out because it really didn't work. On my first 3 poles I drilled and chipped out the old rotted wood leaving a nice smooth cast 4x4 hole in the concrete and wedged in the new 4x4 problem was the falling of the fence made the concrete not square and the only way the 4x4 would fit was trimming them and even sledge driving them in they still had a wiggle. On the rest I chipped out the rotted wood and then used a sledge hitting the inside at a angle with a drift till it cracked and removed the broken sections. I used a lever and fulcrum sometimes the nice thing is you can press it into a bump on the side and pry upward or screw in some wood and seems like that makes more sense then a jack. a jack hammer would work but with the rotted center removed they cracked pretty easily. keep in mind no one does this professionally fence builders just dig a new hole as I should have. Its a pain to remove concrete so its really just us handymen that do this and its really trial and error. So try all 4 methods and see what works for you.
John,Thank you so much for sharing and taking the time. Very good information. Thx
Thanks for posting this! It is our exact situation.
Hello Jennifer,
Im glad i can help. Buy 1 or 2 extra bags of cement. Depending on how big is your hole you might need more. thanks so much for subscribing. . I have lots of cools videos coming up.
That looks like a lot of hard work to remove the concrete!
Thank you so much for this video!! I am doing exactly this today and this video will help guide me through the process. I appreciate it so much 🙌
Allison,
Thank you so much for your comment. How was it.? Did you finish it? If you haven't start it. Get an extra bag of cement just in case. Alex
@@alexthehandyman3494 Yes, I finished it up yesterday! That’s funny, I said the exact same thing when I got done, “For the next post I’m gonna get an extra bag of concrete.”
Thank you again for the guidance in the video!
Me too. Big help
Using two bags of cement is a over kill. Dig 30” deep hole, fill bottom of hole with 3” gravel. Insert post into hole, fill in around post with more gravel. Tamp down gravel as you fill in around post. Fill hole 50% with gravel. Then use one bag of cement to complete filling the hole.
Another alternative is to completely fill the hold around post with nothing but gravel and tamp in as you fill the hole. This will provide a very strong foundation for the fence post and make removal much easier in the future. I have done this method for years and it works great and minimizes rot at the surface where post meets the ground. The post isn’t going anywhere when its base is buried 30” into the ground surrounded by gravel.
Exactly what I needed from TH-cam
Great informative video Alex.
thank you Kathy. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! I am adding a repair spur to a wobbly fence post tomorrow morning and breaking up the old concrete is what I am NOT looking forward to you.
I like your laid back presentation 🙂
thank you so much KaREN good luck with your project. Buy and extra bag of concrete just in case. Some people preferred to rent a jack hammer and brake the concrete in pieces. let me know how it goes.
@@alexthehandyman3494 Hi Alex. Thanks for replying. I just finished. It was 4 hrs of hell breaking the old concrete with various tools 🤪 total time , for me whole job 6 hrs. I would never attempt again without a jackhammer.
You were right. I needed an extra half bag of concrete mix, but I didn’t have it. I saw your reply after I finished, half hour ago.
I can get it tomorrow but of course the bag I used to today will have set. I am thinking of scoring the new concrete and then just topping up with half a bag, is it worth it?
Hello Karen,
Wow!! You did awesome!!!
you should feel proud of yourself!!
I am!!
Regarding the half of concrete bag, if you have noting to do and time to kill, do it.
Otherwise don't worry about it. (thats if is sturdy or strong enough as it is right now)
Let me know what you decide.
@@alexthehandyman3494 thanks Alex, I couldn’t face any more 😂😂 so I packed the soil back on top, which is quite dry anyway. Thanks for your support 👍
Great video thanks bro!
thank you. great job!
U did a GREAT job in making this video! Per instructions on quikcrete bags, they recommend putting in 4-6" gravel at the base of the dug out hole for drainage purposes. U didn't do that but rest was VERY nicely done!
Once again, GREAT job in making a very thorough video!
You are right. Thanks for that comment.
Ill keep that on mind.
Thanks for the pointer with the gravel!
There's an easier way ,
Just shout over the fence "hey neighbour your fence is falling down " 😂
Great video !!
Very helpful brother! Thanks
Glad it helped!
I can't think of one good reason to replace a rotted wooden fence post with another wood fence post. I ALWAYS put in a steel fence post and never have to worry about it again.
This is why you hire a pro !
Great video.
I just had this exact thing happen, and this is by far the best solution, and step-by-step directions to fix it the right way! Many thanks!!!
Thank you so much. I appreciated!!
Thanks! I have a kind of the same rotten post set on concrete and want to replace it by self.
40 degrees, sounds like beautiful weather. Here in Florida it's always a hassle to work in the heat
Hello Samuel,
You are totally right!!!
I don't like extreme weather. Our winters are harsh, but florida summers can get nasty too. Thanks for your comment.
Save yourself a lot of backache and digging by using a truck jack and a chain to lift the post right out the ground within a few minutes. Use a piece of plywood and place it next to the post and set the truck jack on top of it. Connect one end of the chain to the jack and wrap the rest of it a few times around the post and hook it back to the part of the chain closest to the jack. Now just start jacking up the and the post will come out. The jack may need to be reposition as it will want to lean in towards the post as it goes up. You can also move the jack over a bit and keep jacking. The tall jack has enough height to pull out the post. It save my a lot of time and digging. You may have to dig a little around the post to help get it started to get loose, but that depends on how hard the ground is. Also, if the chain tends to slip upwards a little, you can nail or screw in a small piece of 2x4 on the post as a stop. Oh, if the post is broken off, then you will have to dig down a ways to get the chain around the concrete itself. Then, jack it out.
Thanks, my fence is slightly different but I have a good idea what to do now with our broken post.
Thanks for your comment Sean. See you next video. Please like and subscribe if you haven't.
Good work.
Thank you for sharing brother!
thank you!! I appriciate you!!
Thanks, though i have a post that was broken off that is set in concrete that has parking lot blacktop all around it i think i can use your example to fix it thanks im also in the Chicago area!
THANK YOU!
What, no sonotube with top above ground level, then fill with concrete? That way you'd have no ground contact with 4x4.
Good job thanks
Thanks for the video, that’s my project for tomorrow
Good luck Aaron, Buy an extra bag of cement just incase. Some times when digging the old concrete out, you end up with a big, big hole you can compact with dirt or more cement.
@@alexthehandyman3494 thank you, I was aiming for 2 bags but I’ll do 3 to be on the safe side. After this repair I’m thinking of doing a 5x5 of cement for a shed, maybe that can be the next video
When I replaced the post in my fence I just chiselled out the old postcrete with my sds drill with a chisel bit in
I would let it set a day or two before I screwed the rest of the fence to it. I would put some braces on it, 2x4 on atleast one side and let it set a few days even if it says quick setting. A strong gust of wind can throw it off center.
Thankyou for your help
Thank you so much!!
great video bro
Thanks Simon. I have tons of other videos. thanks, See you around.
I have replaced many posts. I remove the old post. I then use a large auger bit in my drill to loosen rotted remains. I then pull out rotted debris and use my shop vac to clean out the hole. Then you have an existing concrete hole to put the new post in. No need for new concrete. Works every time.
thank you so much for your input!! Greetings!!
I mix the postcrete in a wheelbarrow then you can scoop it one handed with a shovel while the other hand is holding the post plumb 👍
no need cutting that root as it was not affecting the concrete and damages the tree
I would do it differently. First, attach two bracing 2X4s to the post at about half way up and at right angles to each other. Make sure the braces pivot freely and are long enough to extend about three feet from the base of the post at grade when the post is fully in the hole. These will be used to keep the post plumb while the concrete sets. Second, I would not use fast set concrete. When properly cured, regular cement is much stronger. Third, do not mix the concrete in the hole. Do it in a wheelbarrow or other suitable container and make sure to use precisely the amount of water specified in the bag's instructions. Again, this will ensure a strong mix. Fourth, use a cylindrical mold near the top to extend the top of the concrete at least 2-3 inches above grade. This keeps the wood clear of the soil line where your post is certain to rot prematurely, regardless of what it is made of or how it has been treated. Make sure you have enough concrete to fill to the top of the mold. Once you get the post and concrete in, adjust the braces so that each free end extends into the soil and adjust them to get a perfectly plumb post. Wait a day for the concrete to set before attaching the fence to the post. Concrete, when kept from drying out prematurely, will continue to cure indefinitely, thus ensuring a very strong set.
I appreciate your comments. Thanks a lot.
I think you’re the type of person I want
to learn from. Great explanation
is it necessary to keep wetting the concrete as it continues to dry or set it and forget it?
@Atg Radio no need to continue to wet it.
Thanks!
I am replacing 2 posts now
That was some sound info. Awesome. 😊
Alex can I hire you? I need 3 broken posts to replaced the same way.
I can understand the difficulty of removing concrete from around an original post - that does take time. Here in the UK we have a product called 'Postcrete' - it sets within five minutes. Also, rather than using builders string for alignment, we place our posts & set them level with a spirit level, then use a 2" X 1" stick at roughly 45 degrees - dig one end into the soil & attach the other end to the post (when all square). What I found interesting (at that property), there were no running boards at the base between each post, & for which we mount the fence planks upon - this prevents rot of the fence boards - it's easier to replace the runners. Also, I note that you didn't treat the submerged part of the post with a sealant/pitch - this too, reduces rotting time of the post base; finally, I was surprised that the above ground fencing was left untreated - but I guess that's down to the owner of the land. Thank you !
Hey Andrew, Thank you so much. Great information.
YOu are awesome!
No problem, Alex - it's great to see how other nations do the same job - wishing you well,
Best,
Andrew.
Thanks man this will help.
5:37 Proof that if you don't test your tools once plugged in, preferably
In an upward direction, they won't work.
Thanks for the video, and, especially, for mentioning how long this job took you; since, I work as a handyman, and I'm bidding on a very similar job.
whats your handyman business? ill be sure not to call you up lol
@@chaocoordinator6972 why not? what an ignorant thing to say. Why do you hate yourself so much? Who hurt you?
Thanks for show us how fix the fence!!! I have a question : how much I can charge for fix an fence like this ?? Tks ...
Whats up Rafa? Como estas? It depends. How much do you want to make an hour? This will take you about 3-4 hrs Including going to the store and clean up. 150 to 250 or whatever you want to make an hr. (at least 50 and hr.) Thanks for subscribing. See you next video.
@@alexthehandyman3494 gracias Alex !! See you in the next video Bro !!! 👊🏼
strange to see the old concrete without post inside it, it seems that the old post was just standing on the concrete shadowy.
and how come putting back soil to touch the new post? let it rot again?
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps the level of the cement should be at the same height as the ground?
I hope in America you guys have a concrete repair spur. In uk 🇬🇧 we fix rotted fence with concrete repair spur it’s about 1 meter half of it goes in to the ground, put in concrete mix in to the ground and the other half of concrete repair spur has 3 holes, all you then have to do is put in 3 big screws through the holes in to the post. This way your post will stay for a very long time. Putting in a new post is not a solution because after sometime it will rot again. Concrete spur won’t rot, so it’s a long term solution. I hope you understand.
Hello ,
Thank you so much for your comment. I never heard of the concrete spurs, so I looked it up. It make sense it would never rot, However I would not like to see all those concrete spurs all over my yard . They are pretty ugly. I guess I just will replace the 4x4 again in 15 yrs or so.
Thanks so much!!
So to remove a post in the ground, you dig it out? Wow! And there was me thinking that there was some sneaky trick or fancy machine to do it?
Hello Bryan!! Yes you have to dig it out since you are replacing the old concrete with new in the same spot.
And yes there are fancy machines that do that:
excavators and bulldozers, but we can't afford those. LOL Thanks for your comment.
@@alexthehandyman3494 - sorry Alex, you miss my point (irony).
LOL thanks
I use my jack hammer to break up the concrete, then i just lift out the broken up concrete.
One way we do it if the concrete is good is to drill a 1/2" hole in the top, place an anchor and use an old style bumper jack, come-a-long or even a breaker bar to pull it out.
Pretty quick method of removal and less back breaking.
Time is money....
good job and it is not level but plumb
Did the tree survive? I don't see why the root had to be cut when you dug out the footing?
I agree. It didn't look like the root was in the way.
I can't wait to see the next two videos: "How to Remove a Dying Tree From a Freshly Repaired Fence" and "How to Replace a Crushed Fence". 😁
LOL That root was one from many far from tree. No biggie. Nature will heel itself up.
Alex The Handyman 🤣 I know that. I was just playing. One severed root isn't going to kill a tree. I have a tree in my front yard that should be taller than my 3 story house right now, but every late autumn I cut it down to a stub (above bottommost branch) while passersby laugh; and every spring it has a full thick growth of leaves. It's not getting taller, but it is getting wider. 🙂
@@flxmkr LOL Catch you later!
Job security
It's nice to have soft soil not filled with rocks. Mine is gonna take a little longer to dig out. Already an hour of work and I'm half way. Any tips for me for ground filled with rocks? I'm using a pick axe and a 6ft metal rod.
Hello, you can use a jack hammer to break the rocks. Rent one for 40 -60$ or buy one online for 100-120
@@alexthehandyman3494 Thanks Alex, I ordered one today. It'll take a few days so my back can recover.
Excellent video. Question. How long the new 4x4 post lasts before rotting. Any way to prevent it?
use a lift jack and metal chain to pull it up the old base.
no stones in ground, lucky you !
Two stupid question: How difficult would it be to dig out the rotted fence from the concrete, add a bit more concrete inside, and simply slip a new 4x4 in the hole where the old fence post was, instead of digging up all that concrete? Also, I saw some stuff in Lowes that waterproofs stuff. Wouldn't it be beneficial to paint that on the bottom of the posts before pushing the poles in the ground, to prevent woodrot? It comes in clear, so you can't see it.
If you are able to remove the old 4x4 clean and put the new one in....I dont see why not but usually doesn't work that way.
And yes waterproofing the 4x4 will stop or slow the rot. Good luck on your project.
It's a great video....but! I removed one of my fence post's concrete & it did not come out like this. No matter how far down i dug I couldn't lift it out. In the end I had to smash it out.
Hello DD. Life is like a box of chocolates..... you never know what your are going to get.
Most people want it to come in pieces so they don't deal with the big concrete piece. I guess you did good. Thanks for your comment.
Jack hammer the old concrete, keep the hole as narrow as possible, fit a postsaver sleeve to the new post and install new post. Guaranteed for 20+ years 👍
Sooo true. Thanks so much for your comment.
..part of the tree that is fed by that root will eventually die---put some concrete in the bottom of the hole before putting the post in, this prevents termites and moister coming in from the bottom ---1/4 stick of dynamite usually takes care of the concrete and the root in one feld swoop.
I know this sounds stupid to ask....but how did you attach the fence slats to the post on the other side?? Did you just use long screws on the back side that went all the way through? Doing a DIY and am at a crossroad woth that last step.
I was think I had to put L brackets on the inside
Hello Frankling. The slats are 3/4 or 1/2 thick. you need at least 1 inch on the 4x4. So a 2 inch deck screw is fine. you can go 2 1/2
see you next video. Thanks for subscribing.
@@alexthehandyman3494 thank you, good simple video 👍
If you don’t like concrete spur you can put post buddy it’s about 1 meter flat metal bar all you have to do put them in the ground using your club hammer it goes half way in the ground and other half has holes it gets screws in to the post, you have to put 2 metal flat bars in to the post. It’s easier this way because their is no digging to do, quicker to to repair rotted post.
I have seen those. Thanks a lot.
So you filled that entire hole with concrete? Isn’t that going to be a problem when it’s time to replace the post again?
Sorry to see you put concrete in the bottom and dirt back on top. The top 8-10" is where the post will rot, just as the one you replaced. I had a number of pressure treated posts that were placed with no concrete and all were starting to rot in the top 8-10". Several were so bad I had to replace them, but most were ok just to wrap the top 8-10" in concrete with 1" or so of concrete above grade to to keep water and rot away from the wood.
Hey David thanks for your comment. Technically you are right. the less dirt is touching the wood the longer it will last. The original lasted 20 years, so hopefully they get another 20 yrs. Thank so much.
exactly, the place where post mostly rot is covered with dirt again, not a good idea as a handyman
never cut your post until you dig hole
Good video. That’s not chicago.. no neighborhoods look like that here
Thanks for posting. So no matter how big you dig the hole to remove the old concrete, you have to refill the extra space with concrete again. There is no easy way to put the soil around the hole so you only use as much concrete as what you started with? I have to do something similar and worried about doubling the amount of concrete I started with.
Hello John, this is a very good question. depending on how big is your hole after you take the old concrete out, you are going to need more concrete that two bags. To be honest, I needed it one more. Be prepared with at least three.
If the hole is humongous try refilling int with dirt or gravel, and then tamper with the same 4x4 to compact it. Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
I was thinking maybe you could put a 5 gallon bucket in the hole first, then put the post in the bucket and then just fill the bucket with concrete? Then once dry, fill around the bucket and over the top with dirt. I’ve never done it, but it occurred to me when watching the video.
Has anyone tried drilling the rotted part
With a long drill ,several times, removing
What is left.Drop newpost into existing
Concrete base????
@@ivansteele4562 Hello Ivan. Sounds like a good idea. I haven't. If you do let me know how it goes. thanks
Thats the hard way.
I'm confused as to why the concrete looks like a tube. When I built a fence my holes were dug out into a bell like shape, I set my posts and then the concrete went around them. So if you ever tried to dig them out the post would be encased in concrete.
Hello, that's because the installer used a narrow post digger . The hole is not that big and the cement surrounds the post just a couple inches all the way around.www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-47-in-L-Wood-Handle-Steel-Post-Hole-Digger-77568-948/313597426?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_011_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_011_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-71700000112731967--&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVIB8BMT2wwTr7MMtYKmqLmy85GEe9U5X59Ok8LyRFjgRjDLn04igAhoCZL0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Better to mix up concrete in concrete mix tub and pour some down the hole before you put your 4 by 4 in probably good 4 to 6 inches of concrete at the bottom of the hole then put your 4 by 4 on top
exactly 100%
Well I guess that is the hardest way!
Don’t you need to mix pebbles / rock into the concrete? I wish you would have shown the other side, how you drilled the fence back onto the pool. What acres you used and where on the wood and how you did that
No if you get the one is ready mixed. The one I am using here I don't need any pebbles . It is ready to go.
On the other side there is nothing but the fence and the post. You just drive screws on the fence onto the post. "just to fasting it"
Use a Farm Jack to pull old post out. Takes a few minutes. Plenty of videos demonstrating.
No one has a fucking farm jack
there is a gap in the video between uncovering the top of old concrete and pocking at it with a crowbar and getting out 1.5 meter chunk out of the hole by hand. you can't do that with a crowbar and a shovel. I suspect that you had a big lever to pull it out first.
Hello akhrissnov,
It was very hard to pull out. I used the shovel and the crowbar you see in the video. little by little right left, pry, dig, right left, pry, dig. It took me 50 min just to remove the concrete and 4x4.
thanks.
Pouring dry cement into a hole is the reason the posts are rotting so fast. ALWAYS mix cement with water in a wheelbarrow or something outside of the hole, then pour this into the hole. Never never never EVER pour dry cement into a hole in the ground. You will never get good, solid concrete this way, ever. It will always have holes that will allow water to seep into the wood, and it's just a matter of time before the wood rots.
the wood post rots and shears at soil level, never seen one rot in the concrete, wish it would, be easier to get out
You want the concrete around post to go an inch above ground level sloped away from post to prevent clay rotting the new post like the old one did
You are so right!! Thank s o much
Why would you go through all that trouble just to cover the partially rotted post with dirt AGAIN!?
Next time you might want to try only digging out one side of the footing and then prying it loose from the dirt on the opposite side. Its half the digging and then you have a tighter hole for the new footing.
thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
One side of the old post is exposed. Probably why the post rotted at the bottom.
I live in the west suburbs of chicago and I have to be honest, for the first minute or so, i thought maybe this was my fence from the opposite side. haha. I have a 30 yr old fence that needs replacement and I've wondered if i could just remove the old footings and pour new. This video helps my confidence in that.
Hello Peter, Maybe e this is your house. This is Wheaton. Im glad I could help.
Hopefully it survives!!!! 😆 😆
Ha ha. That was almost three years ago and it is as strong as ever. Thanks for watching
Don't forget da chovels
LOL. Thanks for the comment !
That seems way too easy to just pull that up! I use a farm jack and chain but often the concrete breaks up and have to dig it out the hard way with a shove, hammer, chisel and sometimes I use a hammer drill to break the concrete.
Was the old concrete hard to take out you skipped that part
Hello Keanu. Wach minute 3 to 7 . Yes it was hard . At least 45 minutes digging. back breaker. Take your time!! Good luck!
level...I think you mean plumb! level = horizontal plumb = vertical
This is a joke, mix the concrete then keep moving the post! every time it moves it makes a gap.
You are allowed to move it as much as you want within the time frame 10-15 min Thx
Except, if that fence post is rotted, you know darn well all the others are on the way out too - probably be better replacing the whole fence honestly.
Hello Airtocuh67 You are correct 100 percent.
two weeks previous to this repair I had fixed another one in the same house.. Its just a mater of time and $$$$.
Thanks for stopping by. See you next video.
Small jack hammer rented from HD..done way quicker
Whats up Ernesto ? You might bet right. it took me 2:45 Not bad . Going to the store to rent the jack hammer and then return it afterwards adds another two hrs and 60 Dollars for the rental. if i was going to do more posts... then maybe. Thanks for your comment. See you around the block.
That pry bar is plenty for just one post. Maybe if you you were replacing a whole fence but not for just one post.
Please do not cut a root that large.
Sorry Kyle I won't next time. Thanks for your comment.
Another cowboy.
If you are going to,show how to,fit a fence post, do it right. I will give that post 5 years before its rotted.
You don't know what you're talking about. Bonehead
Wtaf did i just watch?!
That fence will be back down in no time
The devils own job digging out old lumps of concrete I reckon 😒
Man, I hate when people don't understand
how to use post mix. Then they go and make
a YT video, spreading the misinformation.
Sheesh.
The wrong video
Thank you for the tutorial. By the way, my tree died. Turned out that was its only root. 🥲
Ha ha. Mine still strong. LOL