How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post | This Old House
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2014
- Adding new life to an old fence with This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tools for How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post:
layout square [amzn.to/33IZ73J]
circular saw [amzn.to/2OOqIMR]
hammer [amzn.to/2RbYdKB]
pointed shovel [amzn.to/2DN3GPP]
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Shopping List for How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post:
cedar fence post [amzn.to/382qV6v]
two 24-inch-long 2x4s [amzn.to/2rbM2CH] for supporting fence section
3/4-inch gravel [amzn.to/385k8sH]
2x3 [amzn.to/2LjbE7Q] get one 8-footer
graded base [amzn.to/2RhTPto]
3-inch decking screws [amzn.to/2YcKuEy]
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How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post | This Old House
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This guys so New England I can’t get enough of it lol
yeah noticed the same thing
Kevin said, "Nice job Roger" but Kevin did all the work. What's so nice Kevin?
Idiot, he told him how to do everything, next time turn on subtitles...
Roger was the brains and Kevin was the muscle.
I've seen every episode . and still have cable box set to record new. now I'm here watching its a drug I'm hooked on
I think the fact they got those screws out after that many years was a mirical of its own
One good thing about this old house episodes, there's always plenty of helping hands available
They say it's a requirement for a man to say "that's not going anywhere" after fixing something.
Who is they? I usually beat my wife after fixing something due to the frustration
@@ThatOneguy-br3uf I hope you didn't beat your wife. Is there a better way to phrase that
Its a funny thing to say "that's not going anywhere" because would a fence post survive the heat death of the universe? maybe but cant say for sure.
That's not always a good thing to hear, like when my mechanic says it.
I always use that line when I try to repair my car.
I'm from LA and all my Dad and I used were pressure treated 4x4s in a 27 inch hole. Bottom 3 inches were crushed rock or sand and set the post on top of that. Filled in the post with concrete, then the top 2-3 inches were top soil. Lasted a long time especially since it is dry there.
This is exactly the way to do it. The way they do it in the video they will be replacing every post on that fence every 3-4 years. Cedar is great for outdoor use but not great for ground contact. Only thing different in the northeast from what you did is the holes have to be 40+ inches deep because they have to be below the frost line.
Almost every time I've seen a rotted post in a fence or deck, the worst rot is close to the ground level where people often add topsoil. They'll last a lot longer if that part of the post is protected with a little concrete. That also simplifies landscaping so you don't hit the post with the weedwacker constantly, and expose more end grain that rots faster.
It’s the combo of moisture and oxygen that contributes to the rot. That’s why the wood was in good shape at depth. Utility company’s will sometimes paint asphalt in this area of their wood poles to extend the life of the pole.
I know people are asking why not go down 48 inches for frost, but over my 65 years in New England I don't ever recall seeing frost more than about 20 inches, and that was a darn cold winter! BTW, I just installed city water and the inspector wanted the main at 48 inches as well, but when I asked why the outdoor meter pit had pipes within 18 inches of the surface he didn't have an answer!
Where's the part where they dug the 100 pound chunk of concrete out of the ground.
Exactly lol. Not to mention it only looked like the post was about 18" below grade. Here in Ontario (Canada) some guys go anywhere from 36 to 42 inches deep encased in concrete
Fax. Gonna rot again & again
@@LOUDsigh They know that, it's a quick repair job that'll last at least as long as the rest of that fence.
Hate to break it to you but you do not need concrete to set a post and by not setting it in concrete you will get a longer life of the post. You pour stone in and then top with dirt and tamp it down. Many areas around the US do not use concrete at all with posts due to the earlier onset of rot compared to just rock and gravel.
That’s the best part…haha
I wish dirt was that nice to dig everywhere jeez
Same dirt they use on the "Garden Weasel'' tiller commercials.
If I had that kind of dirt in my yard, I might have a chance at actually growing grass. What I have is almost half rocks.
What is this dirt you speak of. I have only had the priveledge to dig in cementified clay.
Aaron Mackay same
Soak that dirt a couple hours before you dig.
Don't wanna take the whole fence apaahht
Throw everything on the taahhp
hemah
pahk the kah !!!
@Tony Samson your name is Tony
Tony Samson not all massachusetts people sound like this, I found myself laughing at him and I’m 15 min from Boston
@@cyriously_nick2191 I live in Worcester. Usually people over 50 who grew up in mass sound like that. People who are 30 or 40 usually just pronounce stuff weird .
Roger Cook You are the Best! Thanks for all your information through the Years.
Paint the 'In ground' portion of the new post with roofing tar ! THEN , pour gravel and tamp !
Yes seal the wood below grade and also the end.
The proper way to install that post in the ground. Before placing the new post in the hole apply a coat of roofing cement on the flour sides of the post to about 2 inches above grade. That along with the rocks for drainage would protect the post from rotting.
I can’t say it enough, I LOVE THIS SHOW!!!
Got this post from the yaaaad!!
I love this show.
Nice. In the clay soils down here in TX we need to set the post in Concrete. Would love to see you replace the post in a good neighbor fence
If you really want to put off rot in your fence posts, cover the part of the post that will be underground with 2-3 coats of exterior primer. It seals the wood and prevents water and bugs from getting into the wood.
Preston
The Romans used to put the ends of wooden posts in a fire to scorch the outside of the the wood. Archeologists have discovered old river bridges and the only thing left are scorched part of the posts sunk into river beds. All other material signs have gone.
@@koitorob that's an awesome tip! I am definitely taking the blow torch to my fence post before replacing it today.
Woah they make that look so easy!
Beautiful fall day
smart job indeed ,God bless yours
Thanks Kev
they make everything look so easy
Great idea 💡
“One more”
Bangs it twice 🤯
always a good idea to surround the wood post with at least 6" of topsoil. guaranteed to rot post PDQ and convince homeowner to use metal posts in a bit of concrete convex at surface above grade with proper rock drainage under the post
Great video.
Thats the sweet spot in the land.
Thanks for posting the rotten post job.
Love the videos.
I bet Roger was a beast back on the day!
I was looking for a video for a different fence repair, but somehow I got completely lost in this. Great vid
that fence post is solid - it will be left standing when the other posts fail next spring and entire fence takes flight
One of the best video
Nothing is better than when people use standard pieces so you can fix it later
They didnt even use the weathered pole they used the new one lol
Alot of times we have to flip the script if another post closer to the road is faulty. Curb appeal, but nothing more than trivial where this video is concerned. A year or two they will look almost the same.
Yes they did. Neighbor side there Helen Keller!
Nope, only one side was weathered 5:12
exactly that was just the comment I made , incredible
Didn't know anyone installs the initial fence without concrete.
+MrTommy001 they don't
Most people do unfortunately especially people that diy. That said concrete isn't really needed for the majority of fences, gravy, compacted stone dust mix and more gravel is more then enough in most conventional fences.
But as for me, fuck it i'll use concrete it's not that expensive.
Concrete isn't necessary and can actually hold more water against the post causing more rot.
Then when it is necessary to replace posts you have to deal with the hardened concrete.
Well, people who dig wooden posts into the ground dont know how to do it properly. Wooden postst always have to sit above groundlevel in sockets which are set(or screwed onto) into concrete. Everything else is just wrong.
Hahaha. We never put cement in unless it’s needed
That's a really cool idea I like those cuttings you made that was actually priceless. How deep did you put the post.
Helps to wrap ice and water shield around the first 12" below grade to slow bacteriological activity
Never in my life have i seen such loose and easily dug soil than I do in every This Old House video
3:04 "I want you to open that hole up and see if you can go any deeper" That's what she said lol
Didn’t they just use the “new non-weathered” post?
Yeah not sure what that was all about
Looks like the weathered one doesn't have the same hole spacing when you look close at 0:50
ScienceBitch it’s still the weathered one at 3:33, next scene is using the new one though. I agree it must be due to the hole spacing.
Yeah they started with the other one
Haha, good catch.
Excellent Video! At 0:41 I could see duh post. LOL!
Wow! Roger I’m an old woman, I do not ever notice men, ever! I’m too tired. But for whatever it’s worth, you sir, are very* handsome! I hope it makes your day! Thank you both for the video. It was great!
This is a big help for removal. My problem is that there is a lot of concrete around the hole, not much if any room to "dig out" the broken piece of the post....Do they make any sort of post rectracting tool?
I have a 25 year old fence that hat the posts put in concrete.had to replace the railings but the posts are just fine!
The accents alone are worth the view!
Hey Kevin, what do you mean, Roger didn't do anything, Kevin you did all the work.
What happened? They started with the weathered post and ended with the new post.
Interesting
Easiest job on earth...been fencing for over 40 years....wish I had seen posts without concrete....who the hell does that.They will all be gone 100%
The wind will loosen them lol
Yup. Havent got 40 years but as a point when I'm fixing rotted posts with the concrete under the dirt I will literally just kick the post over and show them the rotted cross section. Then I explain that a lot of home owners dont wanna see the concrete and its exactly why I will have a job replacing fences for life. Always have the concrete slightly above grade and domed at the top. I hear there is a new plastic cap you can put on top of the concrete and blast it with a heat gun that also keeps the concrete dry and creates an even more water tight seal.
Just paint the buried section with roofing tar.
I want this (stay @home thing) done before 4th of July so I can fully celebrate my freedom.
I’m here for the comments.... 😁
Would you recommend anchoring a post with concrete ?
Using metal ground anchor will prevent the wood post coming in contact with the ground thus protecting the wood from rotting.
Rahgah always keeps a tahp in his cah when hes on the jahb to protect the yahd. Wish he would have coated that post with tah though. You wouldnt see it from fah. He woulda been a supah stah.
LOL
most posts are set in concrete, what then about getting the concrete out or do you leave it in?
First time I've seen Kevin WORK
Some gold nuggets right here
HI TOH , it sure is good too see Roger back in his prime , why couldn't you put some kind of oil on these fence posts to help prevent rot !!! 👍😊
I like to pre-soak the bottoms of the posts in zinc napthanate for a day or so before putting them in the ground. Make a sheet metal 3-foot tall box that fits easily around the outside of the posts and solder a bottom on it so it has no leaks. The post should be fairly dry. Stand the post in the box, put on necessary protective clothing, and fill the box with zinc napthanate. After a day of soaking, the post can be put in the ground. At the bottom of the hole there should be 4 inches of the crushed gravel tamped down. Then set in the post and align it and hold it in place with 1×2 braces. Then fill the hole 3/4 with the gravel and sand, tamped down. Then you could top that off with sandy soil or fill it with cement to just above ground level. The cement must be troweled such that water runs away from the post. Put some good sealer around all 4 edges where the cement meets the post to prevent water from seeping in between the concrete and the post. Remove the 1×2's when the cement is set.
We had a tornado blow down part of our fence in NY like 2-3 years ago. Still haven’t fixed it
I built a fence in 1980 with all cypress It weathered a beautiful silver grey. but, the posts all rotted at grade level. Turns out cypress in great above or below grade but at grade it always rots. I replaced the posts with pressure treated pine and the fence lasted over 15 years until I sold the house.
So that's how its done!
3:04 that's what she said😂
By she do you mean your mother?
You made Michael Scott proud.
To prevent rotting post fill hole with concrete to about 2 in before top of hole fill with pebbles and dirt and bam post good
HOWdy T-O-H,
Thanks
COOP
...
I always paint the buried part with tar to prevent rot
What about the other shaky post?
All those leaves on the ground would drive me crazy as a homeowner
TIMBAH
TAAAAHP
Cedah
Only in America can the enthusiasm be of that level for a fence post
Must be nice to not have to go down 40" and use concrete to avoid frost heave :)
40 inches...WTH?
4 feet here in canada.
48" upstate New York minimum lol
" I found dis one out in da yad"
Must be convenient having a fence post that is attached with those pocket hole type braces lol
everythings so perfect up here in Mass, we dont even need cement!
Reading most of these comments shows me that people need how to videos
I hope Roger gets back to game shape like he was in this video...:(...Seeing a big guy like him on the other side of a bad sickness is sad to see...
I've sprayed the parts of the post that contact the ground with spray on car undercoating
Why is wood still used as post if we know it will rot quickly?
Hope you have helpful neighbours allowing allowing you into their back garden.
Why the fence posts don't covered with a liquid tarpaulin?
yeah i noticed they used the $55.00 post, finally roger got him some respect, i learned a thing or two.
They didn't. It was only weathered on one side because it was laying down on top of a stack of posts. Look at when they go around to the back side at. 5:12
Seriously? You ended up putting the 'new $50' post in instead of the 'weathered $20' post that matched the existing fence.
Look closer @5:12
What is graded base?
Never heard of not using concrete
farm fence lines have not used concrete for the better part of 2 centuries.
@@mikez4132
These are not farm fences!
Definitely should have concrete.
These are not like posts that are pounded into undisturbed soil.
@@splash5974 agreed. Only speaking to your statement of never hearing of not using concrete.
@@mikez4132
I never stated that originally
@@splash5974 i see that now. Thought your reply was from the original poster.
5w-30 Full synthetic motor oil on the bottom of those posts, Call it a day! Will last forever.
My son and I worked many hours removing a post that had concrete around it and in your case there was no concrete. you had it easy.
Made for TV.
Ikr. I was looking for a real post replacement.
Come back next year to see the next post replaced...
Now the owner knows how to do it ;-)
Huh
I coated the the portion of my posts that went in the ground with foundation tar, then filled the hole with concrete. We re-landscaped over 15 years later and had to remove a few of the posts. Out of curiosity I broke the concrete away from the post and there was not one bit of rot. They would have been good for another 15 years...
Porsche924Tim - thank you for this information. I have to replace some post. How wide should my hole be and/or should I use those cardboard forms?
I always used a manual post-hole digger and filled in the space around the pole with concrete. The depth is more important to me than width. I usually go down about 2 ft. The cardboard forms are usually used when you are digging with a shovel and the hole can get quite wide. The cardboard restricts the amount of concrete required, usually for post footing under a deck.
Thank you for your quick reply. I do not have any experience with this type of work so I really appreciate it. Just want to get it right the first time.
No problem... my father was a contractor and I started working with him when I was 12... I am 65 now and have been doing this my entire life. I enjoy it...
I should also note that I live outside Nashville and we do not have to worry about frost heaves. If you are up north, you may have to go down 3' to 4' to prevent problems with frost heaves...
I guess I need to head to my hawdware stowah and get me a tahp... ;-)
1:20 Measure Twice, and cut once!!
Now do one on and Aussie fence !
Gravel is an excellent filler and allows water to drain away from post. Will pack and settle around post for as good of stability as concrete. On decks or posts carrying a load put 2 to 4 Inches of concrete in bottom of hole to hold grade, line up post and plumb, fill with grave and your drier post will last much longer and be easy to remove. reuse the gravel on the next one. Gate posts or posts carrying a side load or cantilevered load still need a few inches of concrete at top for stability.
The new poast was $50 dolas and the used poast was $20. So I went ahead and bought them both
Lol...exactly.
What happened to the weathered post?
Putting Kevin to work! Lol
Here is a beautiful weathers post to match.....but we will just slip in the new one cause the weathered one probably was a hassle when we tried it so to make it seem like a hassle free job we went ahead and put in the new one without saying a word.