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Thank you for sharing these insightful tips. Currently using these products to build RC airplane plugs to cast fiberglass fuselages and other parts. Your tips promote working efficiently which saves on time and material consumption. Lastly, awesome job to the videographer!!
This is literally the best channel I've found on TH-cam. The details you provide are awesome. Can't wait for the polyester portion. That's what I'll be using. Also I've seen people use polyester cloth to make smooth transitions on curved pieces.
So glad I found your channel. I’m prepping my ‘81 , 34’ Californian to paint. I’m a little west of you in Slidell, LA so same Temps and humidity. I’ve been watching you tube videos boat repair videos for a couple of years in anticipation of getting this painting done. Yours are top notch. So glad one yours popped up in my feed. Thanks so much.
I believe Joe may be the most dangerous man on youtube, you have an incredible ability to explain things so well I believe I can actually do it myself. Seriously, you deliver the best instructional videos I've ever seen. Thank you. I'm working on replacing stringers on my first fiberglass repair project. Even using slow hardener I can not get colloidal silica to mix in before the epoxy starts to kick off. It is hot and humid here in the northeast, 80-90f and relative humidity usually 70%+. I am keeping the epoxy out of the UV until it's applied though. I'm not sure if it's the temperature kicking the epoxy off too fast, if it's because I bought a different epoxy (Total Boat), or a combination of both. Either way just a heads up to anyone looking to do the same process. Otherwise I'm very happy with the end result of the epoxy, but working in small batches in a rush is not ideal for a first time educational project. I will try vinyl ester on the next project anywhere prolonged water exposure is a concern. I'm glad I chose to practice on this old 1990 17' bowrider I got for almost nothing (and have already used for a few years) before getting a nice center console I want to keep long term.
Wow, thank you so much! Try mixing the silica into just the resin first. Then add the hardener to it. Be sure to thoroughly mix it in well, then empty the contents onto a large mixing board and spread it out into a thin layer. This will extend your working time considerably. Hope this helps!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks Joe. I took your advice and mixed the filler with the resin prior to the catalyst, It definitely bought me a little more working time. I was concerned that the epoxy wouldn't mix adequately once thickened, but it was not an issue. My structure is done, finally moving on to the new floor. Thanks again for sharing the huge wealth of knowledge and experience. Watching these videos is like having an apprenticeship I can jump into on my own schedule, the format is perfect, great job!
I love your presentation and delivery. I like that you show the efficient way with power tools but, are clear about any manual tools to get the same job done, and your trick with the round sanding disc on a square sander alone worth following you, that just seems to make so much more sense and I could have used this info on my current restoration. I also understand now I could have sanded sooner with the thickened epoxy I laid, but at least I’ll be patient now when I get to fairing the patches down.🤷🏼♂️
We do use a 2 pound density 2 part pour foam under the floor for flotation on so of our boats under 20 feet in length. I will try to do a video on its use for you guys very soon. Thanks for watching!
Captain-- Have you ever tried to cut a deep 1' wide channel with nice radiuses for your stringer tops? You can run it square to your stingers or drag it with a slight angle to make it thinner. I've done a lot of custom profiles for drywall and plaster and fine stuccos. Also flexible drywall stainless mud knives [In my experience] work better and cleaner, once you get the feel, this can eliminate a lot of time in finishing with less material needing to be sanded away. Just trying to be helpful as you are always helping us tremendously
really enjoy these videos very informative sorry i didn.t know about this when i did the stringers and floor of my boat keep up the great work. from Perth WA
Just recently found your channel and I'm enjoting it very much. Ive done quite a bit of cosmetic maintenece on my old 25' single inboard cruiser with some minor structural and below the waterline repairs, with the help of youtube. Everything has been seatrialed to this point. Last summer Inpulled the engine and will be installing a brand new 350, but am seriously contemplating a stringer repair. They are still mostly solid, glass encapsulated fir, but there is water intrusion. My plan so far is to cut off the top cap of the glass layer and spread the sides of the glass apart and pull/cut out the fir. Then, hopefully insert a new fir stringer and seal it all back up. Most of my experience u til now is with epoxy more than polyester. Im wondering if it would he better to use thickened epoxy, or stay with polyester? I bet taking one of these mocked up stringers you just made and demonstrating what your method might be to remove the wood stringer and replace, would make a great video for a few of us trying to save older boats. Thanks for the consideration. Don
With the gelcoat matching, but I suggest doing white or faded white since there's so many white surfaces on the boat. My boat is an old boat and I'm working on trying to color match it even though it's white it's pretty tough.
The amazon link for the mixing cups isn't working. Are the cups you are using waxed? I know West says your supposed to use non-waxed. Thanks, very helpful video.
Thank you for all of your videos! I am binge watching them to learn as much as I can since there are several places on our 1989 42’ Marine Trader Tradewinds that need some patching up. I already put down the first layer of epoxy and am getting ready for the next layer. Question on the West System products: I noticed they sell a white tint to add to the resin mix. Is it worth adding the white to the peanut butter phase?
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and finding them helpful! I don't typically add the white pigment to the epoxy peanut butter mix, I don't know if it would change the color that much. You could leave out the filleting blend, which gives it the brown color and just go with colloidal silica and microfiber then add some white pigment. That should give you a white filler if that is what you are looking for. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
I really enjoy your videos and the knowledge you have. Thank you so much. I am currently restoring a 94 model bass tracker. I have cut all the new Marine plywood out. What would you recommend to seal the plywood with? I have ordered the original carpet from tractor boats in Springfield. So I will be recarpeting the boat to restore it to original, but the old plywood rotted and it had wet foam underneath the floor. It was soaked. I am not planning on putting the foam back. I am adding a larger section of foam under the casting deck to equal what I am removing under the floor.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Either resin could be used on a job like this. When we are building new boats we use a high quality iso polyester resin. But it seems like many Diyers like working with epoxy because of its low odor, long work times and high strength. I plan on doing a resin selection video very soon for you guys that should help you decide. As far as thee foam under the floor goes, sometimes the foam is there not only for flotation but it can help add strength or support to the hull. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In regards to the topic Epoxy and specially structural strength. Epoxy creates a very strong bond but then also the corners should be filled with a radius because the fibers of the cloth don´t like the sharp corners. Now to this radius.... some make it bigger like for example 1 inch and others a lot smaller. Now besides the impact on further processing/sanding, fairing and cosmetics is there a technical guide line as to why this radius should be bigger or smaller and what is the ideal radius ? what creates the better structural strength? THXs ❤
I am not sure what the perfect radius for fiberglass would be. I do know that the radius I show in the videos has worked well for me for many builds and repairs with no problems. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Capt Joe one final thought gelcoat colors tinting starting from the basic white gelcoat which are the most common black, gray , so we're able to make or own custom colors I know you guys like customized projects just thinking outside to box Lol, I was also told you can add Areosil and Duratec to gelcoat to make a very strong patch ? Was hoping for some confirmation on this I am sure y'all have seen a lot of things like this over the years in family business y'all take care!
Thanks for the suggestions! I usually use duratec as a thinner or patch aid in gelcoat. Areosil will behave the same as colloidal silica in gel. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! We actually have an Awlgrip video that we posted a few months back. We were spraying a 42 ft Tayana sailboat. It's a big blue sailboat on the thumbnail. I hope you find it interesting, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
New to the Channel. Another great video. Thank you for your content. Glancing through your videos, I didn’t see one regarding fixing/fiberglass repair, removing old air pockets, etc on old stringers, specifically the prep work. If you have one that may have touched this process can you direct me to it? Keep up the content.
Welcome to the channel! I don't have a video on that topic, but I will try to get something along those lines out to you guys soon. Thanks for watching
Capt Joe & Fish bump family this stuff looks like Classic bondo fantastic video! In one of my requests tinting gelcoat was really trying to see what colors makes ice blue or Bahama blue or what colors to add to make oyster white? For folks on a budget hoping for video making a polyester fillet putty or bonding structural putty verses spending 100 dollars gallon polyester filler or homemade gelcoat putty would really what material can be added to gelcoat to make it bonding with the hull some mixology variety of polyester products Thank y'all so much appreciated everything you are putting out there have a great day moving forward!
Glad you are enjoying the videos! We plan on doing the gelcoat video very soon for you guys, but in the meantime a small amount of blue pigment to base white will get your ice blue. Mixing yellow and red with a tiny amount of blue will give you brown, add that to base white for oyster white. Add some colloidal silica to your gelcoat for a thickend gel filler, and colloidal silica and micro or milled fibers to resin for a thickened body filler. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Yes, it's a technique that I use often in my shop when the air is cold and damp or if I suspect any moisture on the materials I am working with. You do need to be very careful when working with a heat gun, though. Do not stay in one place to long, or get to close to the materials as it could ignite or overheat the materials. Our most popular video on our channel is how to fiberglass over plywood. It shows the heat gun technique, plus many others that you might find helpful. Thanks for watching!
Oh and at some point can u teach us how to replace our bump rails and such that's around the boat please. I know it sounds easy. I just want your experience know how to do such project. If u can sometime brother. Anyways love yalls work and content
Thanks so much, glad you are enjoying the videos! We have a video in our boatbuilding series for our 29 that shows the rubrail installation, as well as pumps switches hardware etc. You might find those videos interesting and helpful!
Where were you and utube 18 yrs ago when I started on my boat restoration project? lol. Enjoy watching you work and the knowledge you are sharing with us. Have you used a product call E-SPHERES. I used that and talc a lot when making my fillers back then.
Haha, yep! TH-cam is a great place to learn, that is for sure! Yes, E-SPERES and I believe micro sphere are some different names for popular resin additives. There are lots of good products out there, some are very simular, just called by different names. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
@FishBumpTV As side note, I added some shredded coconut to our panko breadcrumbs just like your mum did in our last fish cook up. Yummy will do that again 😋
Could you please explain what this blushes you’re talking about and would peel ply stop this from happening ? Thank you very much I really like your channel and the time you take to show us how long we should take and that you’re not just blessing through. It is a better understanding. It’s like you’re running an apprenticeship program. Thank you very much again.
I guess I should’ve watched longer before I asked my question. Also, if you had a inside radius tool to leave a fillet through the corners that give you a lot more strengths if you let me know, what episode were you actually built the stringer piece so I can see how you attach the stringer to the plywood
Capt Joe, thank you for your videos. I am repairing/replacing a complete deck of a 47' Vagabond. I started with epoxies and can't go back to polyester but I am still puzzled how to UV protect the final epoxy layer where I would have used a flow coat if I was using polyester?
Thanks for watching! If we are topcoating over epoxy, we would usually use Awlgrip by U.S paints. They have a very good epoxy primer called 545. Of course there are other marine paint systems out there, but that is one I have the most experience with. Hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
Another nicely done and informative video! I'm interested on your thoughts why you choose to mix 406 and 407. 406 is not generally used as a fairing compound, but I can certainly see that it helps in reducing sag and may give a slightly harder surface. What are you looking for in a fairing mix?
Yes, the reduced sagging and toughness are exactly why I used that mix. I tried to point out that you can mix the fillers in a variety of combinations to get the results you are looking for in different applications. Thanks for watching!
I was wondering if I could get your professional opinion. I'm looking to buy a center console. Big Bay boat 19 to 21 feet. Something that can handle the Chesapeake Bay relatively decently. As far as older boats go, what do you recommend? The best built boat models between 2010 and 2020.
I have bought a good number of 3M masks before, so I knew that a large worked for me. Medium was tight across the nose area. I don't know if it would help to know this, but I am 6 ft tall and weigh around 185 as a overall size reference. I hope this helps.
Hi from New Zealand.. I manage and repair sail boats in Auckland. Are there powders to add to poly resin to make fillers in the same way that exist for the West epoxy range? I’m not able to locate any, or perhaps I’m looking for something that doesn’t exist..
Thanks for watching all the way from New Zealand! I have not tried every combo of the west additives, but most can be added to Polyester or vinyl Ester resin except for the 410 additive. If in doubt I always recommend experimenting with some small batches to see if you like the results you get. I might make a video on this topic if it has much interest to you guys. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hi Joe, I’ve just moved from working with polyester resin to the West system because I’m commencing making motorcycle body parts using moulds made from polystyrene sheets (which polyester likes to eat, but epoxy is quite kind to), and I’ve notice epoxy works up a lot less sticky (ie runnier) on lay up compared to epoxy. Any suggestions on how to make the epoxy less runny? I have microspheres on hand but want to save them for serious work adding in nuts and bolt and other fittings where I want the resin to sit against the fittings without running. Dave in Oz.
You could try working with a faster hardener in the epoxy so that it has less time to run or sag before setting up. Also be sure to not over saturate the fiberglass with to much epoxy resin during your layup of the materials. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
We usually use a epoxy based primer like awlgrip 545. Awlgrip by U.S paints makes a very good marine paint system. Interlux also makes a good marine paint line. Thanks for watching
@@FishBumpTV Ain't no thing. I did my 1970 Olympic slalom kayak ( dry lay up 11.5' 30#). It's durable and flexible plenty for whitewater work and play. Good finish for more than a decade now.
Yes, epoxy and polyester- vinyl ester resins compatability is one of those things that many folks are unaware of. Epoxy resins and fillers can be applied over polyester and vinyl Ester, but not the other way around. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Reading some of the comments. I too noticed that he didn't have csm and "Resin" all over everything, roller handles, putty knives, arms, face, shirt, pants, the floor... Almost like he has done this before. Are you kidding me, I have like 3 pants and shirts I wear when I am in the goop.
You made me laugh about eating the PB(I've had that thought too "that looks good enough to eat")But that would be a case that ExLax wouldn't touch.. LOL On a side note I gave up on time and being efficient several years ago. I realized early on trying to have a time line was futile in my case. Hopefully In a 100 years I will get it done. Some more twisted humor. Cheers
Haha, I'm telling you man, it looked tasty! Yep, time and boats are a funny thing, it always takes more time than you think! Main thing is doing it right. I Wish you the best of luck with your project, and I appreciate your comment!
I’ve got like a 1957 chevy boat. Biggest one with biggest fins lol I bought all the 1957 chevy belair chrome lol. They really call it 1959 glass ply Olympian. Or Olympic. Lol. Only one or 2 on utube lol. 17 foot. To put floor in it I was going with one stringer and couple more cross members.??? . I can save on glass. Under floor. Lol I think non wax fiberglass.?? Transome looks good but I was going to box in both sides. Then connect to the one stringer somehow. . ?? Need to get out on water fast . And cheapest. . I’ve seen one vidio that ran a bracket from transome to stringer. Just for exstra protection just incase transome rots soon. I could drill hole .? See if I get rotten chunks.?? But it seems good. But I know it’s old. It’s Ben in eastern Washington. Lol . Thanks.
Sorry, but tile filling materials are not something we work with in our boat shop. Maybe someone reading the comments can make some suggestions. Thanks for watching
Hey, question for you. I have a small sailboat (force 5) with damage on the nose/hull under the water line. Someone patched it up years ago and whatever they used was coming apart, so I pried everything off and found a small (less than 2 inch) hole that goes through the fiber glass and its a bit soft for a few inches around the hole. Sometime in the future I plan to cut away the compromised area and re-glass it. For now, I would like to just get the boat in the water. I was wondering what would make for the best "patch" job until I can fix it properly? I was considering something like TotalBoat polyester structural repair putty followed by a layer or two of gel coat. I also heard you mention formula 27 in a video, would that work better/worse for this? Any better ideas? I've heard some videos mention not to use polyester products in some cases but I don't understand the difference or when not to use it. Any reason it wouldn't work in this case? Thanks!
In my opinion, if you have a actual hole through your boat I would focus my time and energy on the structural fiberglass repair part of the job over the cosmetic parts.Patching damage like you are describing with light putty or fillers is potentially dangerous, as this is not really what these kind of materials are designed for. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Very interesting! Women are usually very good at fiberglass work. In lots of boat factories they make up the majority of the fiberglass laminating crew. Hope the videos are helpful and I appreciate you watching!
I appreciate the knowledge you're sharing, but are most people really going to be fairing the stringers? I think a better video would be fairing a transome or fixing a hole in a console.
Haha! it's just a demo piece for you guys! The process would be the same no matter what you are fairing out. Obviously you don't usually fair out stringers, but maybe some would want to in a finished compartment. Hope this helps clarify. Thanks for Watching
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
Wondering if peanut butter with some microfibers added would be good to glue a console down? Just like you small skiffs you guys build
I really love your channel. I’m completely redoing a boat that I just got for 1000 bucks and you’re making it so much easier.
Wow, thanks! Glad the videos are helpful!
Joe you are killing it and your camera guy getting those close ups . You do wonderful with the details love the long videos
Thanks so much!
Thank you for sharing these insightful tips. Currently using these products to build RC airplane plugs to cast fiberglass fuselages and other parts. Your tips promote working efficiently which saves on time and material consumption. Lastly, awesome job to the videographer!!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is literally the best channel I've found on TH-cam. The details you provide are awesome. Can't wait for the polyester portion. That's what I'll be using. Also I've seen people use polyester cloth to make smooth transitions on curved pieces.
Wow, thanks so much! We will be doing the resin comparison video very soon for you guys. I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
No problem. So far I've watched every episode lol.
@@jjfishing1208 Nice!
Content par excellence! Fish Bump TV wins the Oscar across the board. Other channels should copy your style.
Wow, thank you so much! I really appreciate your comment! We will try to keep quality content rolling out for you guys.
So glad I found your channel. I’m prepping my ‘81 , 34’ Californian to paint. I’m a little west of you in Slidell, LA so same Temps and humidity. I’ve been watching you tube videos boat repair videos for a couple of years in anticipation of getting this painting done. Yours are top notch. So glad one yours popped up in my feed. Thanks so much.
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and best of luck with your painting project!
Very informative vids...luv to see primer and top coat finish👍
Thanks for the suggestion!
Logan awesome camera guy really getting some close content Thanks fish bump family!
Thanks 👍glad you are enjoying the camera work!
The long videos are great 👍
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching
My favorite part of this epoxy series is how you never get any on your shirt... 😅😅😅
Haha, Thanks!
I will definitely buy from your link to keep it strong
Awesome thank you!
Super helpful! Thanks so much
You're so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I believe Joe may be the most dangerous man on youtube, you have an incredible ability to explain things so well I believe I can actually do it myself. Seriously, you deliver the best instructional videos I've ever seen. Thank you.
I'm working on replacing stringers on my first fiberglass repair project. Even using slow hardener I can not get colloidal silica to mix in before the epoxy starts to kick off. It is hot and humid here in the northeast, 80-90f and relative humidity usually 70%+. I am keeping the epoxy out of the UV until it's applied though. I'm not sure if it's the temperature kicking the epoxy off too fast, if it's because I bought a different epoxy (Total Boat), or a combination of both. Either way just a heads up to anyone looking to do the same process. Otherwise I'm very happy with the end result of the epoxy, but working in small batches in a rush is not ideal for a first time educational project. I will try vinyl ester on the next project anywhere prolonged water exposure is a concern.
I'm glad I chose to practice on this old 1990 17' bowrider I got for almost nothing (and have already used for a few years) before getting a nice center console I want to keep long term.
Wow, thank you so much! Try mixing the silica into just the resin first. Then add the hardener to it. Be sure to thoroughly mix it in well, then empty the contents onto a large mixing board and spread it out into a thin layer. This will extend your working time considerably. Hope this helps!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks Joe. I took your advice and mixed the filler with the resin prior to the catalyst, It definitely bought me a little more working time. I was concerned that the epoxy wouldn't mix adequately once thickened, but it was not an issue.
My structure is done, finally moving on to the new floor. Thanks again for sharing the huge wealth of knowledge and experience. Watching these videos is like having an apprenticeship I can jump into on my own schedule, the format is perfect, great job!
@@StubGKG Glad to help! I wish you the very best with your project!
Really appreciate your in-depth knowledge. I will be signing up to patron..
Awesome, thank you!
I love your presentation and delivery.
I like that you show the efficient way with power tools but, are clear about any manual tools to get the same job done, and your trick with the round sanding disc on a square sander alone worth following you, that just seems to make so much more sense and I could have used this info on my current restoration.
I also understand now I could have sanded sooner with the thickened epoxy I laid, but at least I’ll be patient now when I get to fairing the patches down.🤷🏼♂️
Wow, thank you very much! Glad the videos are helpful and I wish you the very best with your projects!
Hey Joe, do you like using expanding foam? And maybe can you do a video on it. Thanks man!
We do use a 2 pound density 2 part pour foam under the floor for flotation on so of our boats under 20 feet in length. I will try to do a video on its use for you guys very soon. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! It’s been very helpful!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
Captain-- Have you ever tried to cut a deep 1' wide channel with nice radiuses for your stringer tops? You can run it square to your stingers or drag it with a slight angle to make it thinner. I've done a lot of custom profiles for drywall and plaster and fine stuccos. Also flexible drywall stainless mud knives [In my experience] work better and cleaner, once you get the feel, this can eliminate a lot of time in finishing with less material needing to be sanded away. Just trying to be helpful as you are always helping us tremendously
Thanks for the suggestion and I appreciate you watching!
Great videos, so far, I’m sure I’ll learn enough to repair my 30 year old boat soon. Thanks😅
Thank you, and best of luck with your project!
Keep it going! Great content - stick with it - learning so much.
Thanks, will do! Your comment is much appreciated!
Thoroughly enjoy learning from these videos. Thanks for explaining everything so well.
Glad you like them! I really appreciate your comment
really enjoy these videos very informative sorry i didn.t know about this when i did the stringers and floor of my boat keep up the great work. from Perth WA
Glad you are enjoying the videos and thanks for commenting!
Great review as Im in the process of doing some repairs on boat. Thanks
Glad to help
Just recently found your channel and I'm enjoting it very much. Ive done quite a bit of cosmetic maintenece on my old 25' single inboard cruiser with some minor structural and below the waterline repairs, with the help of youtube. Everything has been seatrialed to this point. Last summer Inpulled the engine and will be installing a brand new 350, but am seriously contemplating a stringer repair. They are still mostly solid, glass encapsulated fir, but there is water intrusion. My plan so far is to cut off the top cap of the glass layer and spread the sides of the glass apart and pull/cut out the fir. Then, hopefully insert a new fir stringer and seal it all back up. Most of my experience u til now is with epoxy more than polyester. Im wondering if it would he better to use thickened epoxy, or stay with polyester? I bet taking one of these mocked up stringers you just made and demonstrating what your method might be to remove the wood stringer and replace, would make a great video for a few of us trying to save older boats.
Thanks for the consideration.
Don
With the gelcoat matching, but I suggest doing white or faded white since there's so many white surfaces on the boat. My boat is an old boat and I'm working on trying to color match it even though it's white it's pretty tough.
The amazon link for the mixing cups isn't working. Are the cups you are using waxed? I know West says your supposed to use non-waxed. Thanks, very helpful video.
Thank you for all of your videos! I am binge watching them to learn as much as I can since there are several places on our 1989 42’ Marine Trader Tradewinds that need some patching up. I already put down the first layer of epoxy and am getting ready for the next layer. Question on the West System products: I noticed they sell a white tint to add to the resin mix. Is it worth adding the white to the peanut butter phase?
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and finding them helpful! I don't typically add the white pigment to the epoxy peanut butter mix, I don't know if it would change the color that much. You could leave out the filleting blend, which gives it the brown color and just go with colloidal silica and microfiber then add some white pigment. That should give you a white filler if that is what you are looking for. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
I really enjoy your videos and the knowledge you have. Thank you so much. I am currently restoring a 94 model bass tracker. I have cut all the new Marine plywood out. What would you recommend to seal the plywood with? I have ordered the original carpet from tractor boats in Springfield. So I will be recarpeting the boat to restore it to original, but the old plywood rotted and it had wet foam underneath the floor. It was soaked. I am not planning on putting the foam back. I am adding a larger section of foam under the casting deck to equal what I am removing under the floor.
I was wondering whether I should go epoxy or fiberglass resin
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Either resin could be used on a job like this. When we are building new boats we use a high quality iso polyester resin. But it seems like many Diyers like working with epoxy because of its low odor, long work times and high strength. I plan on doing a resin selection video very soon for you guys that should help you decide. As far as thee foam under the floor goes, sometimes the foam is there not only for flotation but it can help add strength or support to the hull. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In regards to the topic Epoxy and specially structural strength. Epoxy creates a very strong bond but then also the corners should be filled with a radius because the fibers of the cloth don´t like the sharp corners. Now to this radius.... some make it bigger like for example 1 inch and others a lot smaller. Now besides the impact on further processing/sanding, fairing and cosmetics is there a technical guide line as to why this radius should be bigger or smaller and what is the ideal radius ? what creates the better structural strength? THXs ❤
I am not sure what the perfect radius for fiberglass would be. I do know that the radius I show in the videos has worked well for me for many builds and repairs with no problems. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Capt Joe one final thought gelcoat colors tinting starting from the basic white gelcoat which are the most common black, gray , so we're able to make or own custom colors I know you guys like customized projects just thinking outside to box Lol, I was also told you can add Areosil and Duratec to gelcoat to make a very strong patch ? Was hoping for some confirmation on this I am sure y'all have seen a lot of things like this over the years in family business y'all take care!
Thanks for the suggestions! I usually use duratec as a thinner or patch aid in gelcoat. Areosil will behave the same as colloidal silica in gel. Thanks for watching!
I bet you would do a great awl grip how to
Thanks! We actually have an Awlgrip video that we posted a few months back. We were spraying a 42 ft Tayana sailboat. It's a big blue sailboat on the thumbnail. I hope you find it interesting, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
@ I’ll have to check it out ! Do you do any roll n tip awlgrip
Hi Joe, thanks for the content. May i ask why are these coats necessary? Is it for strength, water protection?
New to the Channel. Another great video. Thank you for your content. Glancing through your videos, I didn’t see one regarding fixing/fiberglass repair, removing old air pockets, etc on old stringers, specifically the prep work. If you have one that may have touched this process can you direct me to it? Keep up the content.
Welcome to the channel! I don't have a video on that topic, but I will try to get something along those lines out to you guys soon. Thanks for watching
Capt Joe & Fish bump family this stuff looks like Classic bondo fantastic video! In one of my requests tinting gelcoat was really trying to see what colors makes ice blue or Bahama blue or what colors to add to make oyster white? For folks on a budget hoping for video making a polyester fillet putty or bonding structural putty verses spending 100 dollars gallon polyester filler or homemade gelcoat putty would really what material can be added to gelcoat to make it bonding with the hull some mixology variety of polyester products Thank y'all so much appreciated everything you are putting out there have a great day moving forward!
Glad you are enjoying the videos! We plan on doing the gelcoat video very soon for you guys, but in the meantime a small amount of blue pigment to base white will get your ice blue. Mixing yellow and red with a tiny amount of blue will give you brown, add that to base white for oyster white. Add some colloidal silica to your gelcoat for a thickend gel filler, and colloidal silica and micro or milled fibers to resin for a thickened body filler. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks again for your sharing !
Thank you,
Reza
Your welcome!
Interesting to see the heat gun for filler in high humidity, does that work for laying glass with epoxy as well Captain Joe?
Yes, it's a technique that I use often in my shop when the air is cold and damp or if I suspect any moisture on the materials I am working with. You do need to be very careful when working with a heat gun, though. Do not stay in one place to long, or get to close to the materials as it could ignite or overheat the materials. Our most popular video on our channel is how to fiberglass over plywood. It shows the heat gun technique, plus many others that you might find helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks!
Love yalls content. Great job and thank u again for teaching me some stuff. Much love from Maryland❤❤❤.
Oh and at some point can u teach us how to replace our bump rails and such that's around the boat please. I know it sounds easy. I just want your experience know how to do such project. If u can sometime brother. Anyways love yalls work and content
Thanks so much, glad you are enjoying the videos! We have a video in our boatbuilding series for our 29 that shows the rubrail installation, as well as pumps switches hardware etc. You might find those videos interesting and helpful!
Love it!
Thanks!! Appreciate you watching!
Where were you and utube 18 yrs ago when I started on my boat restoration project? lol. Enjoy watching you work and the knowledge you are sharing with us. Have you used a product call E-SPHERES. I used that and talc a lot when making my fillers back then.
Haha, yep! TH-cam is a great place to learn, that is for sure! Yes, E-SPERES and I believe micro sphere are some different names for popular resin additives. There are lots of good products out there, some are very simular, just called by different names. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
@FishBumpTV As side note, I added some shredded coconut to our panko breadcrumbs just like your mum did in our last fish cook up. Yummy will do that again 😋
New to the channel! Slowly working watching all the videos. What’s recommended for outside hull repair on the keel?
Could you please explain what this blushes you’re talking about and would peel ply stop this from happening ?
Thank you very much I really like your channel and the time you take to show us how long we should take and that you’re not just blessing through. It is a better understanding. It’s like you’re running an apprenticeship program. Thank you very much again.
I guess I should’ve watched longer before I asked my question. Also, if you had a inside radius tool to leave a fillet through the corners that give you a lot more strengths if you let me know, what episode were you actually built the stringer piece so I can see how you attach the stringer to the plywood
Yes, peel ply would work great for stopping or removing the amine blush. Glad you are enjoying the channel, and I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for videos
Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Thanks, will do!
Capt Joe, thank you for your videos. I am repairing/replacing a complete deck of a 47' Vagabond. I started with epoxies and can't go back to polyester but I am still puzzled how to UV protect the final epoxy layer where I would have used a flow coat if I was using polyester?
Thanks for watching! If we are topcoating over epoxy, we would usually use Awlgrip by U.S paints. They have a very good epoxy primer called 545. Of course there are other marine paint systems out there, but that is one I have the most experience with. Hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
Another nicely done and informative video! I'm interested on your thoughts why you choose to mix 406 and 407. 406 is not generally used as a fairing compound, but I can certainly see that it helps in reducing sag and may give a slightly harder surface. What are you looking for in a fairing mix?
Yes, the reduced sagging and toughness are exactly why I used that mix. I tried to point out that you can mix the fillers in a variety of combinations to get the results you are looking for in different applications. Thanks for watching!
Thank you really love your videos
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching
Great videos,,, thank you so much,,
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I was wondering if I could get your professional opinion. I'm looking to buy a center console. Big Bay boat 19 to 21 feet. Something that can handle the Chesapeake Bay relatively decently. As far as older boats go, what do you recommend? The best built boat models between 2010 and 2020.
I wish we had bigger water aluminum center. Consoles like australia uses
Was there a method you used to know what size mask to buy?
Over a $100 to be guessing if one needs a small, medium or large.
Thanks
I have bought a good number of 3M masks before, so I knew that a large worked for me. Medium was tight across the nose area. I don't know if it would help to know this, but I am 6 ft tall and weigh around 185 as a overall size reference. I hope this helps.
Hi from New Zealand.. I manage and repair sail boats in Auckland. Are there powders to add to poly resin to make fillers in the same way that exist for the West epoxy range? I’m not able to locate any, or perhaps I’m looking for something that doesn’t exist..
Thanks for watching all the way from New Zealand! I have not tried every combo of the west additives, but most can be added to Polyester or vinyl Ester resin except for the 410 additive. If in doubt I always recommend experimenting with some small batches to see if you like the results you get. I might make a video on this topic if it has much interest to you guys. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hi Joe, I’ve just moved from working with polyester resin to the West system because I’m commencing making motorcycle body parts using moulds made from polystyrene sheets (which polyester likes to eat, but epoxy is quite kind to), and I’ve notice epoxy works up a lot less sticky (ie runnier) on lay up compared to epoxy. Any suggestions on how to make the epoxy less runny? I have microspheres on hand but want to save them for serious work adding in nuts and bolt and other fittings where I want the resin to sit against the fittings without running. Dave in Oz.
You could try working with a faster hardener in the epoxy so that it has less time to run or sag before setting up. Also be sure to not over saturate the fiberglass with to much epoxy resin during your layup of the materials. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks for ultra-fast reply. On reflection, you may be right regarding over-saturation. I’ll lay up the resin a bit more frugally!
Hello Capt Joe. Are these combinations of fillers good to use below the waterline or what combination would be indicated bellow the waterline? Thanks.
I might lean more towards using just colloidal silica with epoxy resin for below the waterline. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I vote for 1/2 paint and 1/2 gelcoat.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Where did you purchase the mask?
I searched 3M’s website and Amazon’s site and did not see that particular one.
Thanks
There is a Amazon link to the mask below the videos description. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching
@@FishBumpTV thanks
What types of paints/ primers work with epoxy resin fiberglass?
We usually use a epoxy based primer like awlgrip 545. Awlgrip by U.S paints makes a very good marine paint system. Interlux also makes a good marine paint line. Thanks for watching
Is this mixture like Body filler for auto body work?
Yes, it is simular.
I like etching primer, base coat color, and polyurethane clear top coat. ✌🏻🧙♂️🚬
Thanks for sharing!
@@FishBumpTV Ain't no thing. I did my 1970 Olympic slalom kayak ( dry lay up 11.5' 30#). It's durable and flexible plenty for whitewater work and play. Good finish for more than a decade now.
I was unaware that there is a difference between "polyester" and "epoxy" fillers- I though any filler can be used with either resin.
Yes, epoxy and polyester- vinyl ester resins compatability is one of those things that many folks are unaware of. Epoxy resins and fillers can be applied over polyester and vinyl Ester, but not the other way around. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
What is the difference to using that filler vs cab o sil
They basically do the same thing. Either one could work. Thanks for watching
Reading some of the comments.
I too noticed that he didn't have csm and "Resin" all over everything, roller handles, putty knives, arms, face, shirt, pants, the floor...
Almost like he has done this before.
Are you kidding me, I have like 3 pants and shirts I wear when I am in the goop.
It can be pretty messy stuff for sure! We have just had a lot of practice, that's all. Thanks for watching!
You made me laugh about eating the PB(I've had that thought too "that looks good enough to eat")But that would be a case that ExLax wouldn't touch.. LOL
On a side note I gave up on time and being efficient several years ago.
I realized early on trying to have a time line was futile in my case.
Hopefully In a 100 years I will get it done.
Some more twisted humor.
Cheers
Haha, I'm telling you man, it looked tasty! Yep, time and boats are a funny thing, it always takes more time than you think! Main thing is doing it right. I Wish you the best of luck with your project, and I appreciate your comment!
I’ve got like a 1957 chevy boat. Biggest one with biggest fins lol I bought all the 1957 chevy belair chrome lol. They really call it 1959 glass ply Olympian. Or Olympic. Lol. Only one or 2 on utube lol. 17 foot. To put floor in it I was going with one stringer and couple more cross members.??? . I can save on glass. Under floor. Lol I think non wax fiberglass.?? Transome looks good but I was going to box in both sides. Then connect to the one stringer somehow. . ?? Need to get out on water fast . And cheapest. . I’ve seen one vidio that ran a bracket from transome to stringer. Just for exstra protection just incase transome rots soon. I could drill hole .? See if I get rotten chunks.?? But it seems good. But I know it’s old. It’s Ben in eastern Washington. Lol . Thanks.
Question? Has anyone had experience thickening their epoxy with sanding dust? Which of course consists of cured epoxy, fiberglass, and epoxy paint?
I have heard it can be done, but I prefer fresh additives that you know what kind of results you can expect to get. Thanks for watching
Sir please I request to you again tell me about material of epoxy tile filling grouting. Please reply me.
I will be thankful to you.
Sorry, but tile filling materials are not something we work with in our boat shop. Maybe someone reading the comments can make some suggestions. Thanks for watching
Hey, question for you. I have a small sailboat (force 5) with damage on the nose/hull under the water line. Someone patched it up years ago and whatever they used was coming apart, so I pried everything off and found a small (less than 2 inch) hole that goes through the fiber glass and its a bit soft for a few inches around the hole. Sometime in the future I plan to cut away the compromised area and re-glass it. For now, I would like to just get the boat in the water. I was wondering what would make for the best "patch" job until I can fix it properly? I was considering something like TotalBoat polyester structural repair putty followed by a layer or two of gel coat. I also heard you mention formula 27 in a video, would that work better/worse for this? Any better ideas? I've heard some videos mention not to use polyester products in some cases but I don't understand the difference or when not to use it. Any reason it wouldn't work in this case? Thanks!
In my opinion, if you have a actual hole through your boat I would focus my time and energy on the structural fiberglass repair part of the job over the cosmetic parts.Patching damage like you are describing with light putty or fillers is potentially dangerous, as this is not really what these kind of materials are designed for. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
What is your pallet?
Looks like a for sale sign… 228-
Haha, good eyes! It is a piece of a sign that we had on a rental pontoon boat. I took the signs off when we sold it. Makes great mixing boards!
At work we have thee women that make poles and they hardly get anything on them and do a great job ! the guys are covered
Very interesting! Women are usually very good at fiberglass work. In lots of boat factories they make up the majority of the fiberglass laminating crew. Hope the videos are helpful and I appreciate you watching!
I appreciate the knowledge you're sharing, but are most people really going to be fairing the stringers? I think a better video would be fairing a transome or fixing a hole in a console.
Haha! it's just a demo piece for you guys! The process would be the same no matter what you are fairing out. Obviously you don't usually fair out stringers, but maybe some would want to in a finished compartment. Hope this helps clarify. Thanks for Watching