just a FYI, there is a special 1" drive socket for taking off BUDD wheels. it does both sizes all in one. Also, you would enjoy some prestone tire skid as well. Oh, if you have ballance issues on the front, i reccomend centramatics. beads and powders usually suck.
Dear Mr Mobile, I anti sieze the crap out of everything including wheel studs. I live in the Midwest. The rust holds everything together pretty tight. I would suggest you watch some zip ties and bias plies videos. I think you'll feel right at home there.
Pro tip (in case nobody has pointed it out yet): Don't use oil on the tires. I know you're probably not going to reuse THOSE old tires, but use soapy water from a spray bottle. Just cheap dollar-store soap, and tap water. Mix ratio of no more than 5% soap at the most. Using oil on tires can become a habit, and any oil begins breaking down vulcanized rubber. The professionals keep linseed soap, (sometimes called "tire snot" ) on hand. Tire snot serves a few purposes... It's a lubricant, so you can brush (or wipe a handful) it around the bead and lubricate the rubber. It's also sticky or snotty enough that you can use it as a sealant when you are seating the bead, if you don't have a "cheetah" air bead blaster. Mount the rubber on the rim, and attach the air chuck. If air comes rushing out one side or the other, use the tire snot as a semi-solid barrier. It keeps the air from escaping, lubes the contact points, and squishes out as the rubber bead seats down. You'll get 99% of it back and can use your hand to gather it and return it to the bucket it came from. p.s. Tire snot is NOT to be confused with that tire slime that can help seal leaks in an already-mounted tire.
You speak true facts. And yes, definitely don’t use oil if the tire will be reused. I ensured these can’t be used again, they have holes drilled in the sidewalls.
On steel 22.5'' wheels the tires will only come off the non-disc or concave side of the wheel. On most aluminum rims it will come off both sides and with 19.5'' aluminum wheels the tire usually comes off the disc or convex side of the wheel.
When you have the wheel off, inspect the brakes and clean every matting surface of the drum & wheel for a clean flat surface, a drop of oil on the thread and use a torque wrench (multiplier)
I don't have the leveling jacks. When the blowout makes the sidewall height once it then makes the front axle too low to get a bottle jack under. So how to jack up?
Been there done this.. 19.5 x8 rv tiers.. fun... So did you guy's balance them . Or just poor in the bead's.. It's much better to spine balance them.... Which brand or tier y'all use..
I'd say it's a huge liability to use that little impact to tighten those lug nuts. You should have a 1 inch impact with proper sized hose. I hope it all goes well.
I would use anti seize and torque it with regular tools. That way you have a fighting chance to take those wheels of on the road. You never know if you catch a flat. If you are afraid of the nuts/studs coming loose by putting lube on them, anti seize has something inside to prevent that.
Bruce Jenner fluid to remove the tires. Mint!
humm you're supposed to torque the lug nuts to 450 as the finishing touch and then recheck after the first 50 miles
I'm glad you ended up putting the outer lugs on the right way. Noticed you threaded the first one on backwards at first on the rear.
Why would you use oil on rubber all you need is soap and water .
Love that your posting regularly again, keep up the good work👍🏻
Did you happen to check your brakes would've been a good time not sure if you did. Thanks for the vid
I love how these guys keep making references to zip ties n bias plies, good one y’all!👍🏻
He has been saying that stuff for 10 years bud
Caleb Gooding thanks bud
You're supposed to lube those lug studs. I do state inspections
Put some antii seize on them
just a FYI, there is a special 1" drive socket for taking off BUDD wheels. it does both sizes all in one. Also, you would enjoy some prestone tire skid as well. Oh, if you have ballance issues on the front, i reccomend centramatics. beads and powders usually suck.
Dear Mr Mobile, I anti sieze the crap out of everything including wheel studs. I live in the Midwest. The rust holds everything together pretty tight. I would suggest you watch some zip ties and bias plies videos. I think you'll feel right at home there.
Never use a cutting torch to do your heating. Use a welding tip. Good job.
hint hint, wire wheel/cup brush the studs clean and spray with some penetrant/light oil taking apart...
Pro tip (in case nobody has pointed it out yet): Don't use oil on the tires. I know you're probably not going to reuse THOSE old tires, but use soapy water from a spray bottle. Just cheap dollar-store soap, and tap water. Mix ratio of no more than 5% soap at the most. Using oil on tires can become a habit, and any oil begins breaking down vulcanized rubber. The professionals keep linseed soap, (sometimes called "tire snot" ) on hand. Tire snot serves a few purposes... It's a lubricant, so you can brush (or wipe a handful) it around the bead and lubricate the rubber. It's also sticky or snotty enough that you can use it as a sealant when you are seating the bead, if you don't have a "cheetah" air bead blaster. Mount the rubber on the rim, and attach the air chuck. If air comes rushing out one side or the other, use the tire snot as a semi-solid barrier. It keeps the air from escaping, lubes the contact points, and squishes out as the rubber bead seats down. You'll get 99% of it back and can use your hand to gather it and return it to the bucket it came from. p.s. Tire snot is NOT to be confused with that tire slime that can help seal leaks in an already-mounted tire.
You speak true facts. And yes, definitely don’t use oil if the tire will be reused. I ensured these can’t be used again, they have holes drilled in the sidewalls.
On steel 22.5'' wheels the tires will only come off the non-disc or concave side of the wheel. On most aluminum rims it will come off both sides and with 19.5'' aluminum wheels the tire usually comes off the disc or convex side of the wheel.
Can you record a Video from the Allison gearbox shifting? Like on a Highway?
When you have the wheel off, inspect the brakes and clean every matting surface of the drum & wheel for a clean flat surface, a drop of oil on the thread and use a torque wrench (multiplier)
Great job gentlemen.
13:30 if you lube the treads you can apply more torque and break studs and stuff.
A drop of oil is perfect and use a torque wrench so you cannot over torque!
I don't have the leveling jacks. When the blowout makes the sidewall height once it then makes the front axle too low to get a bottle jack under. So how to jack up?
8:30 start on a saturday morning, better be giving the neighbors free oil changes...
"Reverse threads interesting" best words 🗿
Jack up wheel 1 to 1/2 inches off the ground. Easier to take on @ off.
Been there done this..
19.5 x8 rv tiers.. fun...
So did you guy's balance them . Or just poor in the bead's..
It's much better to spine balance them.... Which brand or tier y'all use..
I spray WD-40 on my lug nuts on my truck can I get a real actual reading when I'm put torque on them it also keeps water moisture out
Freddy I actually do the same thing on studs that are rusty and have never had a problem.
lubricating the threads like that you actually end up over-torquing the stud as it requires less torque to achieve the same stretch of bolt.
Loving the fact that you keep referencing Peg, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside :D
Do those rears need balanced?
I do this for a living this was funny and cringe worthy at the same time
What do you think a tire shop would have charged for this job??
i think 60s and 70s chrysler vehicles had the same reverse thread thing
What model tire machine is that?
I'd say it's a huge liability to use that little impact to tighten those lug nuts. You should have a 1 inch impact with proper sized hose. I hope it all goes well.
Maybe you can use torque wrench 1” 1:78
I would use anti seize and torque it with regular tools. That way you have a fighting chance to take those wheels of on the road. You never know if you catch a flat.
If you are afraid of the nuts/studs coming loose by putting lube on them, anti seize has something inside to prevent that.
Try changing 11r 24.5 😆
Or 10.00r20 those suck
Those are fun, especially when the unit is fully loaded.
Why not use the tire machine to remove the tires?
And yes anything torqued needs lubrication. You don't want to torque against rust and crud.
Regular tire machines can't remove 22.5 tires sidewalls are too stiff they have to be done by hand
@@that309dipper3
Hogwash - so why could he fit the new tires using the machine?
@@Peter_Riis_DK tire machines are not rated for those they have to be mounted how they where taken off due to the drop center of the wheel
@@that309dipper3
What are you on about?
Try blast buster penetrating all instead of using the torch that heat is not good for these studs
reverse threads damn i woulda messed that up
You should do a 100k subscriber video!
I thinking everyone should have torque wrench
use anticize
Hey dude don't quit your day job.
Due like truck driver in old school bar
Wo from Aleskyfinis
Wow 😬
Funny.
Why do you live in a yuppie neighborhood
Better than living in a crackhead neighborhood!