FLSUN Q5 REVIEW - A 90% great machine!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- The FLSUN Q5 is one of the most affordable delta 3D printers on the market today. It offers great features, like a 32bit control board, silent stepper motor drivers a color touch screen, and a bed leveling probe. Too good to be true?
🛒 Check the best deals (Affiliate Links):
FLSUN Q5 on AMAZON: geni.us/EJz4
FLSUN Q5 on Aliexpress: geni.us/wgLE3j
FLSUN Q5 on Banggood: geni.us/1p1AgOO
FLSUN Q5 on Gearbest: geni.us/orPQV
Ender-3 PRO (~$200)
Directly from Creality: geni.us/r7I5
Banggood: geni.us/u0todSj
AMAZON: geni.us/ZmOa3
Gearbest: geni.us/N0IFh
3DJake(EU): geni.us/4VvGDe
Matterhackers(US): geni.us/ZQ4Fc
Ender-3 V2 (~$260)
Banggood: geni.us/lbhfVU
AMAZON: geni.us/9k7MKs
Gearbest: geni.us/JmdFYNN
Directly from Creality: geni.us/WLRS
Aliexpress: geni.us/ijtt
3DJake (EU): geni.us/LN6lZ
Website article: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/flsun...
PrusaSlicer profile: bassoon-fennel-6sw9.squarespa...
Marlin 2.0 for the FLSUN Q5: github.com/jnordberg/Marlin
💚 Support me 💚
Patreon: / cnckitchen
Join as a TH-cam member!
Original CNC Kitchen Threaded Inserts: geni.us/CNCKInsertsChoice
Merch: teespring.com/stores/cnckitchen
Buy an Original Prusa i3 printer: geni.us/CNCKPrusa
PayPal: www.paypal.me/CNCKitchen
Shop at Matterhackers(US): www.matterhackers.com/?aff=7479
Shop at 3DJake(EU): geni.us/zHvnB
🎙Check out my PODCAST with Tom Sanladerer
/ @themeltzone
🎥 Related videos:
Decoupling for less noise: • Seriously the BEST $2 ...
Ender-3 Pro review: • Flexible Bed VS Touchs...
Getting rid of blobs: • (How) I finally got ri...
Sapphire Pro review: • $320 Linear Rail 3D Pr...
🖨 Printed models:
Lumpy Bumpy Vase: www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Buddy: www.prusaprinters.org/de/prin...
Deadpool Bust: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
3D Benchy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Calibration Test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:100...
⚙ My gear (Affiliate Links):
🎥 CAMERAS & LENSES
Panasonic GH5 - Professional 4k60 camera: geni.us/LMN0CmS
Panasonic GX80/GX85 - Great value system camera: geni.us/M2Sm
30mm f2.8 macro - Great Macro Lens (80% of my videos): geni.us/vEwqD
10-25mm f1.7 - Awesome Lens: geni.us/ZTBH
12-35mm f2.6 - Great Allround Lens: geni.us/S9GOsr
14-140mm f3.5-5.6 - My go-to travel Lens: geni.us/fSAyKo
25mm f1.4 - Nice prime for photography: geni.us/mqWM
🎙AUDIO
Rode Video Mic Pro - Shotgun mic: geni.us/6JFRdJ
Rode Film Maker Kit - Wireless mic: geni.us/XMD2N
Rode NT-USB - Studio Mic: geni.us/YVONvy
🔴 LIVE STREAMING
Elgatoo Stream Deck: geni.us/ppIiAL
Elgatoo HDMI USB Capture Card: geni.us/imhD
Logitech C920 - Overhead camera: geni.us/ViVgB
Follow me on Twitter: / cnc_kitchen
Follow me on Instagram: / cnckitchenyt
Chapters:
00:00 Introduction
01:10 Assembly
02:24 Specifications
04:38 Electronics
06:50 Print Quality
08:55 Noise
09:20 Verdict - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
First...because I can.
Hahahahah
Hahahhaha
😂🤣
Fabulous! 😆
Comedian
I bought a Q5 6 weeks ago, and it is impressive. All of the points in the review are correct:
- Underextrusion can be fixed with a 110-115% standard flow rate
- Cooling and noise are easily addressed with a Noctua replacement fan, silicone sock, and custom printed shroud and duct from Thingiverse
- The mainboard is fine unless you want to do extremely fast printing. Replacing the extruder stepper driver is another easy quality of life upgrade.
- I finished all upgrades and I now have a very fast and silent printer that has equal or better quality than the Ender 3, takes up far less space and prints almost twice as fast
- DELTAS ARE MESMERIZING. Your friends will think you spent $2000. They seem so amazingly smooth and robotic. It is science fiction in motion. Poetic to watch...
Thank you, your a life saver do you still have the thingiverse link?
Never did I expect to see a trustworthy youtuber review one of these cheap deltas. As kossel owner, thank you =)
It is a very good value. Easily worth the novelty value of watching a Delta work away. As a Kossel owner, you know the “Wow” factor a Delta creates.
I love it.
Definitely do! It was my first printer, and man.. It's been interesting experience.
Im also s kossel owner
I want a Kossel...nowhere to buy :(
I have the Kossel also. Pain to get started but once she is going she is great
One other upside of note, perhaps - The table footprint appears to be very small for its build volume, which might be a significant advantage to a maker with a very limited shop space.
Good point, it can be literally tucked into a corner since you don't have to make sure there's space for the bed to move backwards/forwards.
Good point! Forgot to mention that.
Yes, I currently have one sitting on about a 30cm shelf. It actually performs beautifully once you get it dialed in. I always set flow rate at 115% and underextrusion problems have disappearred. I believe shortening the tube and replacing with Capricorn tubing will achieve the same result.
I just purchased a Noctua replacement fan and printed a custom shroud and duct. A silicone sock assists in cooling as well.
I am actually amazed at the quality it can deliver at high speeds. I am seeing Ender 3 quality at 70% of print times.
Delta printers are so cool that you can tell your friends it cost $2000 and they will believe you. It is mesmerizing how they move.
This only matters if you use a 2D space to compare a 3D volume. In this matter, I could build any 3D printer as a skyscraper and meet the same criteria. The taller I make it, since you're ignoring this axis entirely in this comparison, the larger the ratio of "footprint to build volume" you have. It's not a really good way to compare printers.
@@ThantiK While I agree it's not the whole story, X/Y volume on a tabletop in a shop is typically *significantly* more limited than Z volume, given that very few people have ~5-6ft in X or Y to spare on a table, compared to basically everyone having that available in Z. X/Y area tends to be more valuable in terms of storage in a small shop compared to total volume.
I bought one a few weeks ago and I agree 90% with you but have some suggestions for you. A silent stepper for the extruder is probably going to be my first upgrade.
My machine seems to have less problems than yours though, I have a suggestion for you:
I used a similarly sized filament roll, and it was printing next to me when I noticed some strange noises. It was the filament roll not rolling well on the squared holder... worst shape for a filament holder. I designed and printed a spool holder for the roll itself to essentially make the I.D. of the filament roll 30mm and all prints improved and it got a little quieter. I made a holder for the holder... but the large I.D. also effects my A10T so everyone gets a holder! I have 15 1kg rolls, trust me it works WONDERS. I won't post a thingiverse link unless someone wants it, this isn't spam for my thingiverse haha.
I have another tip for anyone trying to use post script commands like "pause at". You have to use the BQ "method" (only one available in Cura that worked for me). It works though, I have 2 nuts embedded in my new shift knob as proof!
I love this printer! Like you said it's "90%" and I can agree with that. Then again 100% probably would've been another $100!
Good review, thanks!
Hey, mind sharing the thingiverse link? I own one
@@lugaidster www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601253
I'm uploading V2 and a longer shaft version at some point today.
Would love the link too please 🙂
Wold be nice to see "nonplanar surface printing" with this one :)
This is the first printer I bought (and only one I own) and it has been very easy to set up and use. took some messing around with slicer settings and learning what sort of things can and can't be 3D printed but I'd say it's fast and easy.
Thanks for the great review. As always good. Straight to the point, high quality cutted and also smooth. Weiter so - ich find deine Videos einfach klasse!
I use the flsun QQ-s now for about a year. Since I don't have experience with other printers, I love it.
And sometimes hate it..
Are you printing with various materials
Is there going to be a video of upgrading this machine? I'd love to see how that is done. It seems like a good machine, and I am thinking about getting one. Well, I'd really like to get it. I love watching deltas print, I've stared at them for over an hour before just watching them move so this would be an awesome printer to have.
Check out: th-cam.com/video/VXBr3MTs50c/w-d-xo.html
@@mskerritt1 Thank you!
My thought as well, which I have done on my Ender 3 Laurie NZ
I bought the FLSun Q5 based primarily on this video, but I did watch others. It is my first printer. I had it built in a half hour and have been very pleased overall with it's simplicity. The only problems I've encountered have been my slicing and gcode, not the printer. Yes the cooling fan is loud. Almost as loud as my PC after playing KSP for an hour. I think the Q5 will make a nice backup printer one day when my modeling skills require a higher resolution printer. This is only a hobby for me and I'm happy with a simpler machine that's less intimidating without all those mods and features that I'm supposed to need. With my skill set, I could have a $28k printer and my prints wouldn't look any different.
Thanks Stefan for an honest review and opinion of the FLSun Q5. I am very happy with my printer.
FWIW; I bought the Q5, four 1kg rolls of PLA, and the Sunlu S1 filament drier for less than an Ender 5 Pro and nothing else.
I experienced the same underextrusion problem you described. It got better when I switched to a capricorn bowden tube an increased the extrusion multiplier.
After some (ok a lot) slicer profile tuning I now have a really good printer for the price.
Another big pro of this printer is the small footprints - it's only 1,5 normal printer papers big.
Another pro is that it looks really cool during printing, even my wife likes it.
All in all I can recommend the printer.
I have had one for a couple of months now and I am really happy with it. I'm using simplify for my slicing and have never experienced the blobs shown in the video. Regarding the under extrusion I did have a little of that but that was quickly fixed by bumping the extrusion multiplier up a bit. I just held a workshop at a school and it was perfect for transportation as it is really light and the students were very impressed by the movement system. The speed curtainly made it easier to pump out some useful parts the the students to print home. I have the machine sitting on my desk and I forget that it's even there at times and I don't think it will be coming down any time soon 😊
This is my experience EXACTLY. No blobs, some minor underextrusion, easily addressed at 110-115% multiplier.
Deltas are magical to watch!
I remember you or someone else doing a video on filament oiling. What I remember is that using cooking oil had minimal strength effects, but significantly reduced bowden tube friction. Worth a try as a simple upgrade.
First of, sorry for probably some strange grammar, but I'm german and I don't have much practice speaking english after I finished school 20 years ago. ;-)
I bought the FLSUN Q5 end of april. It was my first 3D printer (and so far only one). One of the reasons I chosed it was the small footprint, because i have limited space on my desk and no other option of placing it at the moment. The other reason was the affordable price. I would have been capable of spending more, but my first try on 3D printing shouldn't be that expensive in case it turns out I don't use it as much or it turns out 3D printing is just not working for me.
But I'm very glad I dared to try it, after quite some time of arguing with myself.
My experience with that printer is equal to your review.
It has some quirks, but it still does decent job and the price tag is well placed.
I bought a better bowden tube as I had the same thought about it as you, but I didn't installed it so far. Same for a flex plate. I bought one because the adhesion on big parts can be so strong, I was able to lift the whole printer while only holding the printed part and once it took me 10 minutes to get my part off without damaging something. That depends on the filament though. Some just snap of once the print is finished and the build plate cools down and just wait to be taken of.
Next thing I want to change is that hot end cooler. It is quite loud. Even though it doesn't bother me as much because it is a steady noise, I think a little bit optimisation is worth it.
Maybe a better mainboard will come after that. I noticed the little blobs, but didn't know how to handle them. I saw a video of... i believe it was Chep, where he showed a solution with Cura settigs, but my settings already watched good in that regard. A better board might be the right solution here. That would handle the firmware "problem" as well. And by problem I mean the proprietary part. That could be a good opportunity to upgrade the extruder stepper driver as well.
As with many printers you can make them a little bit better with self printed parts.
Most importantly the part cooling. The fan only blowing from one side makes overhangs from the right quite good but realy bad from the left side.
I printed this replacement: bit.ly/30xcqF2 (thingiverse link)
That made my overhangs way better. Meanwhile there is another design where the fan duct is easily detachable but I have not printed it yet.
Another thing i did was printing these little hooks from thingiverse: bit.ly/2CzbNTa
My studs had a slight rattling noise. The rubberbands fixed this. But that didn't affact print quality as far as I can tell.
Last I made this carriage covers from thingiverse: bit.ly/2E2slTX
Just to have less moving weight.
For the same reason I want to try printing the support frame for the hotend and partcooling fan. But that have wait until I have the time and mood for it. ;-)
I think the biggest downside of a delta printer can be the round build plate. This one has a diameter of 20cm. I think it is decent and works for many parts. But as soon as you have something with a rectangular footprint it can be an issue. Largest one I designed myself and printed so far was a Nintendo switch stand. It is 164mm wide and 72mm in depth. That was pretty near to the edges, leving only a little bit space for the purge skirt. On a "similar sized" cartesian printer with a 20cm x 20cm print bed you could print two of them at the same time and still have room for some other smaller parts if you so desire. But a cartesian printer with that printbed would take more place on the desk as well. So you can't realy compare 20cm diameter with 20x20 rectangular. But I think just because of the same number some people might expect kind of the same build size you can achive.
Last but not least I want to thank you for your awesome channel. This is one of the channels that tought me quite a bit about 3D printing and made my life easier.
Update:
A small Update down in the further comments.
Ich hab dir den auch neulich geholt und gleich die Lüfter gewechselt.
Das einzige Problem das ich habe ist das die Drucke in x 1% in y 2% zu groß sind und in z eher zu klein.
Hast du eine Idee was man da tun kann?
Hey, thanks about this! I needed this :)
Update:
I have to make a small update. All of the above is correct, but I noticed something on the part with the little blobs.
As Stefan noticed, the blobs on round surfaces happen because the printer makes small stops due to not enough processing power. That was never a big issue for me because in the beginning I mostly printed decorative parts. These parts where printed slowly, mostly at 30 mm/s. At this speed there are barely any blobs. Meanwhile I noticed, that they introduce at about 40 mm/s. At 60 mm/s the survice beomes quite rough due to uneven printed walls. At 80mm/s the printer doesn't make small pauses anymore. It becomes very noticible stuttering. The print of a bowl at this speed was horrible and very ugly. Straight walls and corners on the other hand are still good at 80mm/s. So it's just an issue with round objects.
I already have a new mainboard laying around (had nothing else I wanted for christmas so a free upgrade), but I'm lacking the time to work on the printer. Planing on doing some test cylinders for a comparision of before and after the upgrade.
@@BBFPV
Entschuldigung, habe die Benachrichtigung über den Kommentar wohl übersehen.
Ich bin selbst noch neu beim 3D Druck, aber so wie ich das bisher mitbekommen habe, ist es nicht so einfach die Stock Firmware zu ändern. Aber in der Hinsicht habe ich eh noch keine Erfahrung und könnte da keine Tipps geben.
Spontan würde ich sagen ist es am einfachsten wenn du in deinem Slicer die Größe von Objekten in X auf 99% und in Y auf 98% stellst und schaust ob es dann korrekt ist. Was die Z Achse angeht könnte es auch sein, dass du zu zu niedrig gelevelt hast. Cura hat als Standardeinstellung, dass die erste Schicht mit 0,3 mm Dicke gedruckt werden soll. Hast du aber niedriger gelevelt so das z.B. nur 0.2 über bleiben ist der Druck also knapp zu niedrig. Nun sind die Druckbetten aber auch nie 100% eben, so dass unter Umständen so vorgegangen werden muss um überall eine gute Haftung zu gewährleisten. In dem Fall kann ein Raft helfen. Das Raft bügelt dann die Unebenheiten aus und der Druck oben drauf sollte dann entsprechend genau sein. Tritt auch dann noch eine regelmäßige Abweichung auf, kannst du natürlich auch Z auf z.B 101% skalieren.
Ich habe auch an vielen Stellen schon gelesen, dass sie das Problem haben, das z.B. von einem Viereck zwei Seiten schön gerade sind, die anderen beiden aber leicht gebogen. Davon bin ich nicht betroffen. Vielleicht eine Frage von Firmware Updates. Aber da man das nicht über Slicer Settings Ändern kann, war bei diesen Leuten die einzige Lösung sich ein neues Mainboard ein zu bauen, welches die Möglichkeit gab den Drucker entsprechend zu kalibrieren.
@@JelleGrutterink
Hi,
I made a little update here in the comments regarding print speed and quality. Maybe it is no longer an issue due to a possible newer hardware revision. But I wanted to share that additional experience I made so far.
I built my own delta based on the Kossel design a number of years ago. The best upgrade I ever installed on it was the Zesty Nimble extruder to get rid of the Bowden tube. It makes changing filament a snap, and completely did away with jams and ground up filament.
Just bought one ... thanks for the review!
I agree with your review. I also changed the firmware, the extruder stepper driver, added a fly-extruder. It is a great wee machine for prototyping. As always, thank you for your great work.
Great review
Interesting printer.
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍😁
I considered this one, but ultimately went for the ender 3 due to the vast amount of documentation and community projects. I sort of wish I'd gone for the Q5 though, deltas are mesmerising as you said.
Anyone have a recommended choice for a 4010 blower-style fan if you're looking for something really quiet?
I'd print a mount for a noctua axial fan but I don't want the extra weight on my hotend.
You can install Marlin2 to robin nano and use most of it's features. I believe even linear advace can work good with a short bowden tube like we have here. And there is an option to place extruder on the top of the head using springs attached to carets, and get shorter retracts and better K-factor.
Best review of FLSUN Q5. Thanks.
one of my favoutire printer i just love the way ti works i have upgraded the fan with a noctua had to use a voltage step down cuz the old fan was 24V but it was easy also instaled a led stip on the top and i have lights as well
I got one about 2 weeks ago. Lube the ball joints. Watch that the tube doesn't get in the way of the homing switches. Changing some of the settings during a print causes the machine pause very briefly. The stepper motors on mine are not all that quiet, much louder than my CR-10 with a silent board. The extruder motor makes an annoying sound on retract. With all that being said I still like it. Easy to get going. I used the Flsun QQ profile and adjusted the bed dimensions. I plan on using it for smallish fast parts.
Have you tried vacuum epoxy impregnation for prints?
Possible strength or water absorption property alterations would be very interesting.
Hi, thanks for this review, if i had not yet bought one, i think i had been convinced to do it! As you said, i choose it because it is so easy to assemble for a first 3D printer, the ratio between printing/printer volume is very good as it is a delta printer! And the dance of the head and arms of a delta printer during printing as something hypnotic... It also have a very good printing quality out of the box ( tmc2208 are already installed for axes), and is relatively quiet compare to printer of the same price range. The spool holder is the first thing to change, it is so easy to print a good one! Then i've installed a tmc2209 for the extruder and it become completly quiet ( change motor direction and put extruder max acceleration to 250 in firmware). Now i can only ear the fans, and it is difficult to find a good 24v replacement ( i've tested some noctua and noiseblocker 12v with buck converter, but then they are not powerfull enought compare to stock fans). There is a good program (certainly made by FLSun) that almost automaticaly calibrate prinitng dimensions ( you enter the theorical and reel dimension of a test print, that's it):facebook.com/groups/120961628750040/permalink/708716593307871/
Just got mine a few days ago. I’m really happy so far. I replaced the filament holder with one on thingiverse. Great value for money. We’ll see how it holds up.
I am 6 weeks in...still quite happy. The issues I have had are not really the printer. I recommend a higher than 100% flow rate, however. The long tube can create resistance on tall prints. At 115%, the print can accept the extra material, no problem, but underextrusion never happens. You get a stronger print and better consistency.
It is extremely fast in vase mode. You can do 100mm/s and not see any degradation.
Duet is such a good Upgrade for these Delta / Kossel style Printers. Upgraded my Anycubic Kossel to an duetwifi2, Printspeeds of around 150mm/s and Movement around 400mm/s are no Problem for big parts.
Great upgrade unless your printer cheaper than Duet. At first everyone should try to upgrade to 3-5 cheaper boards before buying Duet. It seems there full industry for those who bought cheapest printers.
What's the point? :)) It's not a cheap mobo... If you're about printing more than about tinkering (your machine) then it's better to start with a decent h-bot. It will be faster and much more reliable (and understandable!).
Printer came with a 8Bit Board, which really had its limits. The skr1.3 wasn’t available back then, so i went Duet and never regret it so far
@@darkengel1210 Can the skr1.3 work with delta printers? I'm using one for my ender 3 and it's amazing.
Sure, why not? Just a configuration thing.
I'm using the Q5 sind 4 weeks now and since one week I have a working marlin configuration. I don't like closed source firmware. The Q5 simply does his job very well. At the moment I'm tuning the slic3r profiles for PLA an PETG.
regards and thank you for your content !
Michael
Thx for the video
Is there a chance that you will test the performance of the printer with the mentioned upgrades? I'm in the market for a delta printer (tall narrow prints is a problem on moving bed designs) but I want clean prints or I can use lots of support material on a ender style printer
With it's footprint so small, you could make an enclosure using just a large pipe from the home store. Size and cost would make this an easy sell for me.
As alwasy awesome video! also I hope you make an in depth testing on resin printer and fiber glass mesh.
Brought one. Great printer. Easy set up out of the box. Great quality prints using pla for such a cheap printer. Well worth it. Easy to move around the building. Use a cable tie to hold leveling attachment in place when using as may move if not. I found the magnets not quite strong enough. Otherwise a great buy.
Picked this up back in July and I've been very happy with it being new to 3d printing. Only things I've done is add a pei magnetic build plate, and I will need to clean
ebuild my hot end due to it starting to leak recently. It's def ruined me for cartesian printers due to the faster print times.
Could you share your Prusa profile you used for the machine? I'd like to compare what you have set to what i'm using on my q5 right now.
I am a month late on commenting but I have a Q5 and I love it. I actually just a week ago finished an upgrade to allow dual color printing from a single nozzle. I upgraded all of the steppers to tmc2209, changed out the hotend fan, changed the parts cooling duct, changed the power supply fan, added second extruder, changed to bmg dual gear extruders (for better flexible filament printing), and went over to Marlin 2.0.6.1.
The issue you were having in this video is most likely related to Linear Advance. If I enable Linear Advance then it does the same thing that you showed in the video however if I disable it then it works fine.
Overall you can print out upgrades for this printer than improve it a tremendous amount and change out a few parts for very cheap to make it a quieter more flexible printer.
The best and quietest printer I have ever seen.
I've had an Ender 3 that I keep buying parts for and trying to upgrade to get it where I want it to be, but for almost half of what I've spent I could just get this printer that already comes with all of those upgrades out of the box
I got my first big delta last year in the form of an Anycubic Predator. The machine was very nice out of the box, but nowhere was it listed what kind of software it was running, so my first few prints were totally jacked up as I tried everything under the sun. Eventually I figured out it was based on RepRap, and presto, back in business. After a fairly extensive fine tuning of settings and trying all the slicers I've racked up, Cura made the best prints for this machine in the best print times. I've upgraded a lot of the parts too, added TL Smoothers and motor mount vibration dampeners, print head, etc. The heat bed was great at first too, but after a dozen or so, the topical additive the manufacturer adds to the bed has worn away and I have to use good ol' glue stick and clean that sucker surgical smooth to get prints to stick. Last little quibble--and I've tuned the mechanical parts to perfection now--but the print head would occasionally hit the print, knocking supports off or in the case of my last print (a marathon print trying to get a 185mm prototype turbine part), embedded itself in the model and ruined a print head due to a full spool turning into a gigantic blobby of filament spaghetti. After months of waiting and importing several replacement third-party heads as Anycubic wanted $9.00 for a print head but $50.00 to ship it, only one of the four would register to the firmware and accept readings from the thermistor, etc. That was more of a pain than I was expecting, so if you go with any of their FDM printers, you'll probably want to upgrade to a better print head sooner than later...
I bought one, my first 3d printer, it seems quite good
@CNC Kitchen:
Hi Stefan,
would you mind sharing your Prusa slicer profile. Mine is some kind of weird and so I do use Cura (derived from standard QQ profile). But there is a bug in Cura 4.7.X when doing circles with not being able to keep the speed constant and that way creating blobs. Not being able to have nice circles on a round build plate is not optimal to say the least.
My experience with the Q5 so far:
It is as great printer for the money you have to pay. But I am a little concerned about keeping quality. My printer is making a rattling noise when printig (especially infill). That noise comes from the print head and i was not able to locate it so far. I printed for about 200h which is not that much in my opinion. I think i will have to investigate this noise which is not too easy as the screws are hidden quite well. Apart from that i am totally pleased with it. I could sit and watch the movement of a delta for hours. It is such a beauty to see a delta printer doing it's business.
cheers (Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße)
Peer
I am curious of your method used for testing the thermal runaway. For instance on the Sapphire Pro, what they call thermal runaway is just a sanity check for sensor readings. But if the sensor should come detached from the heater cartridge while printing, the printer keeps pumping heat into the heater block until it melts. When addressing TwoTrees, they seemed to not be aware that a temperature sensor sanity check and thermal runaway protection are in fact different things.
I have an flsun cube. Great printer when tuned up properly. I recently got a tenlog 3d pro idex printer. This new one does dual the right way with independent exteyders that get out of each other's way. I will use my cube as a single extrusion machine and the new tenlog as my choice for dual extrusion projects.
Got my Q5 for about a week or so and am mostly satisfied...PLA sticks too heavy but some brands of PETG work fine. Surprisingly, two different brands of PETG printed from flop to top with exactly the same gcode file. Going to check out your PrusaSlicer settings :-)
It£s also good that the delta arms are connected to the extrusions with thick frames that go all the way around, it's easy to manually move the nozzle.
Small thing: check that in PrusaSlicer (or whatever slicer you’re using) your XY and Z jerk and accelerations are the same in the machine limits. That was causing very similar stuttering to yours for me as PrusaSlicer overwrites these values in the start GCode.
I've always wondered if these printers would benefit from using the extra degrees of freedom. I mean, printing horizontally is something every 3D printer can do, but this one could also print diagonally without too much effort which could make a huge difference in surface finish.
I've been running Marlin on my delta for quite some time without any problems. You might want to check your Marlin config again.
Did you ever loosen that bottom zip tie along your tube, that might be crushing the feed tube a little 👍
Seems to be very sturdy and looks like a bigger version of the Magician that I have. I love delta printers. The first printer I ever bought was a delta printer kit from China. The fan on mine is also quite loud. Mine runs Marlin. I'f love to upgrade but have know knowledge about how to do it in a right way. Mine has a limit switch as a touch probe. I always have to do some calculations which have to be uploaded to the machine manually.
i was thinking about these and ended up going the big brother, being the QQS-PRO which is a bit different after watching your video. I've been enjoying using mine for a few months, like it better than my stock ender 3.
Might pick one of these up as a project unit. Deltas intrigue me and if the stock performance isn't great, I have no qualms learning how to throw a Duet into it. Already in-process of putting a SKR in my Monoprice Select Mini Pro (Malyan M200v3).
Great vid, keep up the good work!
I just got one of those because of all the good reviews. BUT I still can not find the optimal cura print settings :( and also I can not find out what print nozzle it use when I want to replace it.
That twist in the Bowden tube will be creating some constriction and hence drag.
Would you try Klipper firmware? Have seen someone on youtube print super fast on a (heavily modified) Anycubic Kossel with Klipper.
FLSun provides a good product, my (linear rod and bearing kit version) FLSun i3 is still running strong after three years and many mods later, with the only issue being a solder joint breaking off an end stop switch once.
I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro. Is my first printer and I love it!
I just ordered one are you able to use various materials
PLA and PETG shouldn't be a problem, ABS could work as well.
@@CNCKitchen thanks for response I'm at the learning phase I can see Soo much potential now I'm so interested
PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU goes very very well.
I'm way late here, but in case it helps someone, turning off the recover after power loss feature really helped the main board keep up during printing and reduce the blobs like you saw on the lumpy bumpy vase. This was actually on my QQ-S, but it looks like the Q5 is electronically the same.
was the deadpool printed on FLsun q5 printer??? if yes what setting did you use,
they really thought well about the total user experience design for the assembly and setup
I bought one a week or two ago and I have to say I am quite happy. As far as the fan noise I do not find objectionable. Steppers are quite quiet except for the extruder and it is not that bad.
will there be upgrade video for this printer ?
Hello Stefan! Could you try out something, and make a video about it?
I need to print a model that have 1,6mm wall. I thought i have the 0,2 nozzle, and i set in Simplify3d to that 0,2 dia. The model it printed out nicely, but i said hey, it's actually 0,2 the nozzle? I lifted the nozzle Z100 exteuded, and the filament was 0,4! Though the print still good.
Can you make a video how the print changes with 0,2; 0,4; 0,6 nozzles, with 0,2;0,4;0,6 sliced programs?
Isn't the MKS Robon Mini comparable to the MKS Robin E3D? The later one is a really great mainboard for my CR-10. Combined with the old Creality Displays with click wheel it is just awesome.
So maybe replacing it with a Bigtreetech Display would be a good idea? Those have their own CPU and control the printer similar to a connected PC, so less CPU cycles are wasted on the mainboard
Just wondering - isn't this printer perfect for nonplaner printing? With this extended nozzle and with the theoretical ability of tilting the head.
Stefan as of lately I have come across people applying thermal paste to their PTFE lined throat claiming it increases the thermal conductivity and increasing heat dissipation to the heat sink, I am not convinced of this as surly it also draws more heat to the throat from the block by the same process and potentially cause blocks and retraction issues.
What are your thoughts on this? and could ou do some experimentation on this?
Bought one at an auction but have had problems. Initially the extruder was moving in reverse but I managed to fix it by reversing a couple wires on it. Second problem is that the pla won't stick to the plate. I've tried many things including changing temperature of plate and tip. Cleaning with several degreasers. Adding glue stick. Spraying with hairspray. Nothing works.
I have an awesome video idea for you... bonding/glueing PETG parts together and which is the best method. You could check the strength of all the bonding methods (super glue, plastic weld, hot glue gun, ect) PETG is an awesome plastic and the middle ground between PLA and ABS but it has a terrible time bonding to itself with glues. We need a CNC Kitchen assessment for the best scientific method for attaching PETG parts together. Keep up the great work, cheers!
Hi Stefan, I got my Flsun Q5 a few days ago, it's my first printer and I'm quite impressed. I only had one minor inconvience when assembling because the motor from the extruder didn't quite turn freely. I disassembled the extruder because I thought it was a broken gear but as it turned out it was only a loose cable which I completely plugged in again and then everything worked fine. Do you have any suggestions on the slicer settings, especially when it comes to fast printing. As I'm printing mostly functional parts and prototypes I don't mind stringing, blobs, etc but speed, and stability matters. Also I would like to see another video on the mentioned upgrades, can you recommend any resources on swapping the Mainboard?
The Mainboard seems fine to be honest. I've compiled Marlin and handles much better.
Moin Stefan, I got a flsun qq-s pro as my first 3d printer and got a lemon... First it was great but it didn't age well... Belts bend right of the box, the bed warped very badly after a 2 weeks to the point that's unusable. Many others in the Facebook group have similar problems. And it also lost the leveling a few times on different firmwares (including marlin)
More details please on the upgrades you mentioned!
I'm brand new to this stuff, how does the printer know what you want to print?
Have you already reviewed the Qidi X Plus?
How’s the quality of you’re printing with TPU filament? So far only the Ender3 works well with TPU, PLA’s fine but too stiff and not a lot of flexibility.
ik this is a bit of an odd request, but it would be cool to see what the temperature resistance of SLA resins is compared to our standard filaments
Thumbs up for pronouncing Bowden correctly and a great review, of course.
Nice with a engineers look at things.,. Keep up the good work..
Consider Klipper as firmware for this type of printers.. My Anycubic kossel topped at 1,1m/s.. but normal printing speeds around 250 and travel at 500..
Just ordered one
I am really considering buying one...but eventually the QQ...or both! Christmas is coming!!!🙂
I've used a Delta for the last 6 years, coming from a Prusa Mendel i2. It has its upsides and downsides. My next machine will definitely be a cartesian machine again.
2:20 Wipe that screen for your hero shot! lol
Who are we?
-Makers!
What do we want?
-Noctua fans on 3D printers!
I have that stuttering on my Delta as well When I select the wrong marlin flavour in the slicer. Just Test another flavour Of the firmware
I just bought q5 just because it was super cheap.. Only thing I did for now is change to capricorn bovden... So far I am surprised how well it works.. the default cura setting seem to work fine - the resolution of 0.5mm seem to help the slow board, so the print quality is good.. the sound of the fan is a bit on the high pitch but it is also on enders... I only own enders with that cubic type nozzle set (ender3pro, ender5 and ender5plus), also I dont know for ender 5plus it is a talk about having silent drivers which are not silent at all(they were the same as on the stock ender5)... I rly like all enders but the simplicity and ease of making enclosure for q5 would make me reconsider which one to chose between the 2(if i had to choose)..
I was able to get this for under $200 and ran identical models side by side for at least 6/7 straight prints. Every model was arguably the same quality and a few even better. The real benefit was time, each print started at the same time but the Q5 blew the Ender 3 away every time. The benchy was half, other models were 1 to 3 hrs faster. This was with the E3 printing at .2 and 50mm and the Q5 at 1.5 and 50mm which is the default for the Cura profile (modified QQ). I agree the fan and extruder are noisy but my E3 stock was much worse. For the upgrades to my E3 I’m in it for over $250 and the new V2 reflects that price point. For under $200 the Q5 has been awesome and is my go to for quick prints. I also on a CR6 and thought it was going to be my go to but with all the issues with that line it spends a lot of time off. I hope you Stephan, come up with a replacement board option that makes the Q5 even better.
I have an FLSUN QQ-S and I'm not happy. It had trouble getting the print to stick to the bed. Auto levelling is poor, multipoint manual levelling didn't help. Then a fan broke, my own fault, but support was nearly non-existent. Couldn't get spare parts from FLSUN, had to find some on Ali myself. I bought a Prusa instead, that works and is a lot smaller with only a slightly smaller footprint and print volume. Still fascinated by the delta though, maybe I'll get it up and running again someday.
FLSUN Q5 and QQ-S are cheap but NOT RECOMMENDABLE FOR BEGINNERS!
You link to a FLSUN Q5 profile for Prusa Slicer, is there one for the QQ-S as well?
I'm liking this a lot
@CNC Kitchen, you mention replacing the mainboard, which boards would you consider to be a suitable replacement? Are the SKR boards (such as the 1.4/1.4 Turbo) which are in a similar price bracket any better, or is everything around that price not worth it?
Check out Review from Design Prototype Test. He suggests the Duet and I agree. The SKR turbo runs 32 bit 120MHZ @64kbSRAM. Duet at 32 bit 120MHZ @512kb SRAM. U won’t need Pi with duet. Duet would be the best choice for running the delta at speed
@@hayden9944 only downside is the price of the duet right? arent they 5 times the price of a SKR?
Try Marlin before changing it.
Hello Stefan. I have question - can you 3D print using fishing line as a filament?
That's like asking if you can use mud to make houses...
I have been eyeballing this, it's been getting good reviews all over and looks to be a good footprint for the volume :)
I own one and I can highly recommend.
Kinda offtopic, but are there any good tutorials to calibrate delta printers?
My anycubic XL has been building up dust since its so frustrating to get it working. firmwares, official and marlin, calibration, bed temps, under extrusion, among other things. I've shouted so many curse words and ruined one printbed.
Does this go with firmware? I wonder if the board is broken, how can we upload its fw to a replaced board?
Hi Stephan, zuerst hatte ich sonderbare Probleme mit dem extruder, der knackte während des Druckens, dann starb scheinbar das mainbord. Er zeigt jetzt beim einschalten die Meldung an, dass das file fehlt. Ich denke, er Meint das Betriebssystem
Vielleicht BBC spendiere ich ihm ein Einsyboard. Oder ein Duet. Mal sehen.
Spiel doch mal Marlin drauf, ich hab erst gestern 2.0.7 dafür compiliert.
Coole Idee!
Got one for myself... Keep having trouble with Z offset, it doesn't seem to home in a repeatable manner.
The screen looks like an mks tft28 which has its own firmware, essentially like another computer just sending commands to the mainboard. I think the board itself uses marlin and can be upgraded to klipper fw.
I also have a Sapphire Pro with the Robin Nano and I can confirm that the firmware is very bad. But the board itself is fine, I actually think it's the best solution for a cheap board with a modern interface; the MCU is very good, the screen is responsive and decent quality, firmware update is easy enough, it just lacks a second fan interface for the Hotend fan. The real problem is the software support from 3D printer manufacturer. It seems you download the official Marlin, but you should try the version on MKS Github, it works fine for me (I'm also working on an improved version of it for the Sapphire Pro, I will add it under here when it's done).
My version of Marlin for MKS Robin Nano and Sapphire pro is available here : github.com/quentinDeroo/Marlin
A lot of work has been done to improve the UI, it's now much more modern and faster than the version Stefan used in this video.
@@Spitfire17139 can read from the files it works with the robin nano but you built it for a sapphire pro which is not a delta, how do we use this on the printer this review is about the flsun q5
@@max1mus2k You need to modify the configuration.h file in the Marlin folder to set it up for this printer. I can't help you more than that, I don't have one unfortunately. Note that the screen is different, I believe it's a TFT32 on the FLSUN (compared to a TFT35 on Sapphire) so keep in mind to change that in addition to all the usual settings (it's near the end of the configuration file under "Graphical TFTs").
My Q5 does not have a V6 style hotend. The heatbreak is not threaded into the heatsink but is instead a smooth pipe held in the heatsink by two set screws. The heatsink is in turn screwed into the effector which holds the hotend in place. I would *love* it if the hotend was more easily upgradeable to a V6 style so I can use all my existing parts!
Yes it's a mistake. Its a V5
A design I like very much.
how the print quality compare to Ender 3 V2?