$750 vs $275 FDM Printers, Did I Waste $750 Purchasing A Prusa.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2020
- I bought the Prusa a while ago, 7 weeks to be exact, in that time i recieved the FLSUN Q5 and its a printer that really blew me away. The quality and dependability i was getting off the Q5 was amazing, far better than i thought possible at this price point. Seeing this, it got me thinking, did i over pay from my Prusa given how well this little $275 printer is. Well i printed some models on both and the result was pretty interesting.
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Having worked with prusa mk3s in our makerspace I am always surprised how "smart" these printers are. We had to resolder the wires to the bed temp sensor on one of them after somebody had mangled it. I was prepared for a painful recalibration of the sensors and other hacks but once we started the printer it instantly realised the bed temp was wrong, asked us to remove the build plate and proceeded to calibrate itself by touching the hot end to a screw in the bed.
Compared to our Makerbots, Creality and ZYYX printers (that cost 2 - 10x as much...!) the prusa is in a league of it's own when it comes to reliability, not to mention print speed!
Helpful comment. Thank you
PRUSA MK3S or ARTILLERY GENIUS?
@@aetronics6064 Prusa all the way
Im still running a prusa mk1. Its dosent even say mk1 on the tag just original prusa i3. Its keeps printing like a workhorse. Had the heat bed connector melt and had to soder directly to the board and the ptfe tube burned upbut other wise it just prints without an issuse. Oh and its still one if the few fdm printers i know of that will print 0.05mm layer's
Thank you for this comment, I am looking into purchasing a 3d printer so putting in some research time.
9:54 The texured print sheet is for Petg and ABS and other filaments, there is a smooth sheet, and that one is the one to use for PLA and it has a layer that sticks to pla.
Did the same error, bought the other smooth plate : wonderfull for pla 🙂
Yeah. I use the textured sheet for PLA all the time since I like the texture, but I use a *tiny* bit of adhesion assistance by putting a little PVA on the bed and rubbing it in with 99% IPA (Maker's Muse trick). Works great. Otherwise the smooth sheet works great too.
Thanks dude. I was wondering why they offered two sheets
I got the smooth sheet too and destroyed one side within the first day by printing flex on it without gluestick... Stuck so God damn well it ripped a couple chips right off the surface
Both smooth and textured sheets are PEI, just the textured is powder coated, and the smooth is a PEI sheet put on the spring steel sheet with high temp adhesive, while you can print PETG on PEI you should use something to go between like gluestick since PEI and PETG are in the same family and can bod together permanently.
A little confused to why you are trying to have two very different machines use the same settings for the print. IMO a more balanced review would be to use the recommended settings from the manufacturers per machine. At ~6:37 you say you used the same speed settings on the delta as the prusa, and at 6:42ish you say you even used the same temp settings. This IMO invalidates it as an accurate comparison because you are forcing one machine to operate out of it's optimal settings while the other is at it's recommended. You should run the test with factory settings for each machine, then compare. Even if you "dialed" in each machine on a basic level - it would be a better and more accurate comparison. The whole point of this video is moot because you somehow think having the machines operate at the same speeds/temps/etc is accurate - when in fact it is not as you have given the Prusa a very obvious and clear advantage. Disclaimer : I don't own either of these.
You just read my mind, bro. Its insane and unprofessional to compare two different mechanics with same setting... So sad most of the ppl trust those review , but they are fake... Why dont you try to make a slice setting to Q5 and then use them at mr. Mk3 to see the results, and to be honest the calibration cube on mk3 was kind ugly
Right....I dont understand. I run new temp towers with EVERY ROLL OF FILAMENT to dial it in. I certainly dont run the same settings between printers. Reiews need to be held to a higher level than this and done in a sound and logical way. This fell short.
@@kristiyantodorov6310 the benchy as well imo, especially the overhang in the front. I love the prusa but his wasn't even dialed in that well.
All in all Not a great comparison between the two machines. But given that Delta printer seems to only lack good cooling and maybe lin adv I might bei getting one of those. The prints looked pretty good
I own a prusa and it's honestly worth it. I couldn't see that many places where I would save money. The places that you could save money are the motors, the guide rods, lead screws, power supply. I've been down this path before in manufacturing and talk about a pain in the ass. Ya your printer might save you $500 but it's going to cost $1000 in engineering time at least. Somewhere down the line you're going to pay.
@@genau14zeichen DO IT! I've had my Flsun q5 for a few weeks and I love it. He did not do it justice. I have mine dialed in and can print that benchy perfectly and in less time.
i can't think about anything but your middlefinger octopus now...
Fucktopus
Octopussy
It is a good way to make the middle finger gesture more friendly,
The printing temperature for different machines and depending on how accurate it needs to be, even on the same machine can be different. The sensors and electronics aren't calibrated in general, so the total error you'll get varies and I wouldn't be surprised if it could even be +-10C. Then there's also the heat transfer and heat capacity of the hot end that plays in how hot the plastic coming out really is.
What I'm saying is, you shouldn't expect hot end settings to be directly transferable between machines. Also crappy part cooling fans seems to be the norm in chinese designs, but they're usually not the hardest part to fix.
With both styles of build plate you can get a perfect stick without any additives. Wash the build plate with soap rinsing properly and it sticks like magic. Textured doesn’t stick as well though you do need a larger piece for it to properly stick on that bed.
I bought 2 MK3S kits and assembling them really helped me to understand how things work. Also it's fun :D
They do their job really well and i think they are worth it
Then there’s me with a really bad 2000 dollar FDM printer
@James. I lubricated my sensor with micronised PTFE, which is bloody fantastic for sticky plastic parts and have not had any problems since. You can get it from a lot of engineering sites or Amazon.
I was quite happy with how easy my CR10S proV2 was to put together. Open box, fix top boom to bed, connect wires, plug in, and go. The 'benchy straight out of the box' IMO was just as good as the better one in the video with the supplied PLA and Cura.
MK3S owner here of 1 year (first personal printer as well). Regarding the octupus it indeed has less adhesion especially at the end of the legs, but do some deep cleaning with isopropyl on the texture bed, obviously clean again before any new print, use 7x7 bed leveling setting instead of 3x3 and most importantly tune you live z height. The last one is the most important. Print a 40x20mm square 0.2mm height, and observe. If you have a micrometer you can tune that to exactly 0.200mm. Doing it by eye it's possible but you need some experience as it was the question i had when i started. I never used a glue stick or any bed adhesive with both beds (textured and smooth) and the only "failure" i had was with the octopus when i started, one end of the leg wasn't printed correctly because it detached at some point in the print (but it managed to pick up after). And i print with PLA/PETG/ASA/Carbon filled edit: as for the filament sensor i never had an issue but yes it needs some precise assembly to work as intended
Ok bro. Great video. I just put together my MK3S kit and the MMU2S multifilament upgrade kit.. what a beast of an assembly.
The shark looks really awesome! Very good video/review, thank you.
The older sensor would fail to detect transparent filaments. I've never had a problem with the MK3S sensor, but I printed my own upgrade parts and filed them as best I could.
Use the smooth plate for PLA and you wont need to use glue. Smooth and textured sides are used for different materials
Glad to know that I'm not the only one to struggle on articulated prints the prusa
This is actually such a great starter video! Thank you 🙏🏻 😊
I got a delta for my first printer a little over a year ago (bold move, I know, but I didn't have problems either), and also just got a Prusa mk3, so this video was a big interest-grabber. I have the classic sheet. Haven't run a bunch of prints yet, but my findings are in pretty good agreement. So far, I'm calling it my minifigure factory. It's worked dramatically better at fine layer heights than my delta, which would knock over narrow support towers or fine features. My delta also got really loud when I enclosed it the easy way, and the prusa is pretty quiet. Due to the static bed and easy enclosure, the delta is going to get rigged for ABS and become my go-to for large (370mm diameter, he's a big boy) and/or functional parts and the Prusa is going to be for minis, fiddly bits, and day-to-day prints.
One thing I think the review skipped over a bit too quickly is how smart the Prusa is. I was extremely surprised. If the nozzle drags or the bed encounters undue resistance when it's starting to print, it'll not only notice, but autonomously recalibrate itself and try again, only halting if it repeatedly detects the same issue. It saved me from a critical cable management error on its first print this way. I have no idea how it does this. It can tell when its belts are tensioned wrong too.
Buying one soon for my business. Cannot wait
I also had problems with the textured sheet adhesion at the start. I never use adhering agent on the textured sheet. I solved my problems by increasing the bed temperature for PLA to 61° C. The actual fan design is so strong that it cools the bed too much on the first layers. hence the plate cools too much and contracts hence releasing the print. Also get a good squish on the first layer and clean your sheet with IPA before printing. Draft is poison for the adhesion on PEI. Oh and something VERY important: Get the spools of that spoolholder and put them onto something else. I recommend a reverse bowden setup. When spools are on there and one starts to wiggle and swing you will see that in your prints. It looks like a strange Z-wobble. I could see that on your Cali-cube. Have fun with the Prusa. Awesome machine. You will love it for its reliability and accuracy.
Thanks for the upload! I'm just getting into 3D printing. I think this from what I've seen and read about, this is the one so far. Although, I would purchase it already assembled. 😂
Our Prusa is a workhorse. Reliable and can print the special filaments like TPU and PC
I've had mine for 2 weeks and it is running non stop without issues. TPU is so much easier on the prusa... I was amazed that it printed TPU perfect onthe first try.
This is thanks to the original e3d v6 full metal hotend, good quality noctua fan etc. You can get that on any printer.
Prusa has nothing to do with that.
As a person who is interested in getting a Prusa, Thanks!
!!!!!! BRO !!!!!! - Try a budget SLA printer! I've worked as a technician repairing industrial 3d printers and the quality you get for below $500 is just amazing. The prints are soo good that there are slicer layers instead of print layer lines. These printers are absolute beasts for small parts especially the fans you make and smooth surfaces. Try them at the very least!
SLA Printers have too small print volume
@@SolidGreenDay I know...😔 It's quite expensive to get a large volume SLA printer. I used to work on those and they cost over 150k. I have nothing against FDM but the quality and repeatability of SLA has just amazed me a ton. I'd recommend anyone who already has a large volume fdm machine to buy a smaller volume sla because the parts comes out so smooth and the awesome resolution.
With a highly tuned printer like mine on the minimum layer height it is virtually indifferent in terms of visual quality. Also FDM allow for a much wider variety of materials and I can’t stomach the cost of resin. I suppose I’m just a functional printer really. ;)
@@lio1234234 I agree, it's quite cost effective to use FDM however it takes a ton of time and patience to understand the machine and get everything calibrated for high quality. Also the UV resins are not entirely kid friendly so both the types have their own places I guess
Devson Butani I do agree, they all have their places, for example I use my Prusas to manufacture loudspeaker enclosures and baffles and for that I need speed, reasonable accuracy but still a nice surface finish without imperfections so FDM suits me well for this. Patience isn’t so much needed with Prusas as long as it is set up fine in the first place, I find I have no issues at all setting up any new prints, and don’t get me started on how many supports SLA printers usually need. :) glad they work for your purpose though. All machines are designed for different use cases, including printer types so. Yeah I agree. XD
My first printer like a lot of peoples is an Ender 3 Pro. I have done tons of upgrades to it so much so that it probably costs as much as a Prusa right now. I have another Ender 3 Pro otw as well as have an order placed for the Prusa MK3s. In my research I found that the Prusa is probably the best option for reliability because he has a large print farm of them all going none stop so if anyone finds issues with the machine it's going to be the maker of the printers. That alones old me on it as well as his story was charming so I wanted to support his efforts.
The most important factor for the better prints imo is the direct extruder. Now for the price diffence you could easily get upgrades like linear rails and a zesty nimble (and much more) on the delta and have the overall better device. But like you mentioned prusa makes sense in work environments where the out of the box experience is more important than huge amounts of money.
Personally i really enjoy "tuning" my printer. I have a chiron with huge build volume and started with little mods like fan designs. In the last 1,5 years i designed my own carriage and direct extruder including basic metal work. Upgrades like linear rails, complete re-wire for 32bit and learned how to use git to keep my own marlin config running. Learned so much from my hobby.
The best way to flip off TH-cam and not get in trouble 🤣🤣🤣
when my filament sensor failed it was a small piece of filament wedged in there! it sucked but it was my fault ultimately. I also found on reassembly if I over tightened the assembly the arm would stick.
I have a prusa mk2s, and I have been running it HARD for 3 years now. I have only run into a couple issues where i needed to replace major components, and those were my own fault, i didnt stick around to make sure the first layer was good before leaving for work one day, and came home to a huge booger the encompased most of of the bottom of the head. it was a disaster. I had to have my work print out a few replacement parts for the head body to get up and running again, as well as order new thermocouple and heating element.
Past that, only regular maintenance in 3 years, and I love this machine. I wish I had space to get more printers, I would hop all over the mk3.
I can relate. Prusa user here, gone through at least 20 filament spools now and still going strong. Had to replace a couple of parts that actually printed using the same machine.
Replaced a the extruded fan with a noctua for noise reduction and it’s been a breeze ever since.
thanks for typing in the comment I was going to! Prusa is a fucking workhorse platform. great first printer. I've been building my own since, but having a reliable Prusa in my back pocket gives me great confidence.
@shane knott I would be interested to know what your printing as an example of hard use please. PLus are you hobby or seeling what you print?
Had the very same problem with my build textured build plate for the prusa. I went through th forums and found that some people were sanding the suface of the plate just once (not sure if this voids the warranty though). So i got a fine grit sand paper and gave it a light once over (actually twice over just to be sure) and wiped it down with isopropyl alcohol and its worked great ever since, no glue required. I do make sure to wiped down the plate with isopropyl between every print.
On another note, if you are just printing PLA I would highly recommend the Smooth PEI build plate as PLA stick so much better to the PEI. I mainly use the textured build plate with PETG as it stick to well to the smooth sheet and rips the PEI off.
great setup for this video. greatwork!
The q5 is only 199$ at the moment
Love that thing, but as I got a delta 6 years ago I understand why all say don't get a delta as a first printer. But that thing is awesome. Only needed to adjust stepped/mm. Made a windshield with 3 printed parts an 12 dinA4 clear pages and it prints even abs like a boss. 15 hour print with 0 problems.
Print the parts for a Prusa clone with mmu with it at the moment ^^
And that the fan doesn't work for you isn't a wonder, the new nozzle you use looks much lower than the original ^^
The justification for a MK3s (which I bought my second one last week) is they're smart, easy to calibrate, technically open source, and a shit ton of other features. My favorite part is not having to worry about endstops as the motors know when they trigger the ends. They require so little maintenance to function fully, and I can go from Fusion 360 to my printer without any work other than copying the file to my SDCard since I'm too damn lazy to setup octoprint.
Can you give me more advice about the Prusa? I recently purchased a LONGER LK5 and it sucks. It is terrible. I wasted about 400$ on that piece of shit, so i really, really, dont want to make that same mistake again. Do you mind helping me out?
Can you print .obj files directly from Fusion 360 to the Prusa?
I resolved the adhesion issues on the textured plate (TPU, and PETG) by cleaning with windex (one time) and using denatured alcohol - rather than 70% isopropyl. Prusa recommends 90% isopropyl- but I don’t know where to find that.
I own and operate a tevo tarantula pro, and some of the issues I had were bed adhesion, filament jamming, and Z-banding like no tomorrow. To fix the bed adhesion, just use common hair spray. Not only is it water soluble, it leaves the work area smelling a bit fresher and is very cheap and easy to get. To fix the Z banding, replace the Z axis coupler with a unit that DOES NOT have that frickin spiral cut into it, or you can do as I did and fill those grooves with JB weld. That coupler allows the Z screw to move up and down during operation, resulting in the mess. To fix the filament jamming, I adjusted the tension nut on the extruder's thumbspring (it's right behind the little pad you put your thumb on). I would also recommend getting a "Nozzle X" for the volcano hot end, as it is hardened and has a non-stick coating on it to help prevent jamming up. It's a bit spendy, but well worth it. If any of this worked out for you, let me know!
Love my q5. Still trying to get my prusa working properly. For the money q5. For the all around prusa.
Looks cool and I can't wait to see what you come up with. Just wondering though, what about those infrared liquid 3d printers?
So, I know I'm commenting late on this video (I just saw it!), but some advice on getting your PLA to stick to the bed of your Prusa Textured sheets might be in order. First, I own 2 Prusa printers, a MK3 (soon to be MK3S and MMU2.0) and a MK2.5S (which was originally a 2.5). I love both of them and shopped for 3 years before I bought the 2.5 about 2.5 years ago. I've had my MK3 for about a year. I too have had the struggles with the textured sheets and PLA, and even PETG (gasp!) sticking to the bed. Here's what I've learned, from practical experience, and some gleanings from discussion groups, which were then verified by personal experience:
1. Don't touch the textured sheets with bare hands--you'll get oils from your hands on the sheets and eventually that can cause issues in getting filament to stick. I just always use cheap, cut-resistant gloves when handling the print or using spatulas to remove things (mostly from the slick beds, but occasionaly and CAREFULLY on the textured if they won't pop off due to small print size, or thin prints). I use the Handy brand gloves (Harbor Freight? that are dipped in yellow rubber.
2. spray the bed lightly with 91% (or higher) Isopropyl Alcohol between prints--ESPECIALLY when switching from several PETG prints back to PLA. wipe off with Blue Shop Towel lintfree paper towel or a coffee filter. Both work and are reasonably inexpensive--especially if you cut the shop towels into 16 smaller squares for this purpose.
3. If you still have a problem with PLA, take the bed (while wearing either the Handy gloves or some nitrile gloves) and give it a light washing with liquid soap and warm water in the sink. DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SCRUBBING PAD!! Just use your hand (hence the nitrile gloves work a bit easier). I know Prusa doesn't recommend this in at least one video, but I got this tip from a long-time Prusa owner in the prusa forums (forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/problem-with-pla-adhering-to-new-textured-build-plate/ and in another place from user @joantabb). Now remember to NOT let your hands or other potentially oil things (kids, animals, other chemicals) come in contact with them. Also you may need to repeat this if you haven't printed in a while, as dust does accumulate on the bed too!
Good luck!
I definitely feel the filament sensor issue. I use the MMU2 on my Prusa mk3s Bear and had the same issues for a while. It uses the FINDA instead and with a magnet I feel it's a lot more reliable than the IR sensor, but the mod also moves the IR sensor to the door so there isn't an arm anymore. Definitely trust it a bit more, though it wouldn't work without the MMU setup.
With my three prusa textured sheets, I had a hell of a time getting PETG to stick, which always stuck way too much on a smooth sheet. Knowing that scuffing my smooth PEI helped get more consistent results with PLA I figured i'd do the same with the textured sheets. I scuffed them with a green scotchbrite pad just like I did the smooth ones and I have not had issues since.
Magigoo would be probably an easier choice. Works great and easy to clean after
Hi! At the beginning I had the same problems with the adhesion to the print bed. Then I calibrated the nozzle even closer to the print bed (first layer) and it held. The problem is that you have to press the filament into the textured print bed, because the larger surface requires more material. Just try it :).
Another commenter said the adhesion issues were due to PLA requiring the smooth build plate rather than the textured one. I don't have a Prusa to verify this but it sounds about right.
Both these printers are standing in my workshop.
I have a lot of fun with the Flsun but you get what you pay for:
- no useful support
- dimensional inaccurate (Print a big square and you see the lines are not straight. -> Design Prototype Test on TH-cam has documented this issue too.)
- part cooling fan insufficient and there seems to be no easy fix
- no removable build plate
Better buy a Prusa Mini if you start with 3d printing.
Which model do you have?
Guillermo Lovato Flsun Q5, Prusa i3 mk3s and Tronxy X5SA Pro. The Tronxy needed most work to be usable. The Prusa has no modifications as it doesn‘t need any.
@@MarkusFotofieber My Q5 worked great out of the box, i did tension everything myself and reattached the homing switches. But for the rest its almost as good as my Michelangelo, only then 2-3 times as fast!
@Joey Poortman, when I print a square, 3 sides are straight and one is slightly curved. As there is only one side of four with a problem and the delta printer has 3 axes, I don‘t think there is a physical problem with the motion system. 😀 As the firmware is not open source and Flsun couldn‘t (wouldn‘t?) help me, I didn‘t want to invest more time. I use it for toys, where accuracy is not that important.
@@MarkusFotofieber Oh that is weird for sure!! I haven't opened mine up but i guess you can flash the board with the newest marlin version ... maybe that could help you. I like the printer alot. Besides that, the 750 dollars for the prusia omg ...what a price :O
The shutter sound when switching to close up shots is a nice touch 👌🏻
The textured build plate is mainly for materials other than PLA. They even tell you that you should use the use the non textured PEI sheet for PLA.
I have had mine for about a year and have had no problems at all. Mine was prebuilt.
2 mods I love for the mk3s are octopi and squash ball legs. Octopi makes it super easy to print and the squash ball legs make the printer damn near silent
And you might want to lower your z height... I have no problems with pla on the coated print bed. If you have any problems prusa have amazing live chat support
I built a reprap pro kit 7 years ago. It took me a week over the christmas holiday's to build and test. I learned a LOT about 3d printers over the next two years. Then I bought a XYZ Da Vinci. It was awful. The number of hours I wasted on making it print properly, upgrades, new parts etc. It was never plug and print. then I saved up and bought a Prusa Mk2s. i loved it so much that I ordered the Mk3 the day after its release! I like you've said.. Long wait for it to turn up. I've since upgraded it to the Mk3s and have added octoprint to it. Recently I added a tasmotoa wi-fi switch to it so now I have a 100%, never fails click and print system that just works. I don't even have to turn the printer on! Prusa printers are expensive but they are backed by a huge development team that are continually improving the firmware, software and hardware and consumables of the Prusa eco system. Money well spent? For me:- Yes it is.
For bed adhesion what I personally found out on the powdered surface. There is one thing that is insanely important and that is keeping it clean.
At first I had issues with it not sticking but after cleaning it with water and soap and then a couple of times with IPA alcohol it sticks perfectly.
Just try to keep it clean and just give it a wipe with alcohol after every print. You generally should not need the glue stick at all.
exactly
Agree never ever used glue and printed hundreds of objects. Now I print without checking the first layer it is always good.
For PLA Smooth sheet is slightly better but I think you can print the octopus also with Textured
Read the Prusa Manual chapter 6.3. here an extract
To achieve the best adhesion on the new surface, it is important to keep the surface clean.
Cleaning the surface is very easy. The best option is Isopropyl alcohol available in
drugstores which is the best for ABS, PLA, and others. Except for PETG in combination with
the smooth PEI sheet, where the adhesion may be too strong, use Windex instead as it
degreases less thoroughly. Pour a little amount on an unscented paper towel and wipe the
print surface. The bed should be cleaned while cold for the best results but it can also be
cleaned when already preheated for PLA, just be careful not to touch the bed surface or the
nozzle. When cleaning at higher temperatures, the alcohol will evaporate before it can clean
anything. Alternatively, you can clean the bed with warm water and a few drops of dish
soap on a paper towel.
For PLA I just wipe the plate with IsoProp (or in a pinch methylated) alchohol. For PETG I wipe it with Windex. Works every single time.
Finally a 2020 video of the mk3! Great review! How long did it take for you to assemble the printer? Also, would you recommend buying a prusa o 2 Ender 3 pro/Artillery? It's for home use and possibly someday start selling prints locally. I have an ender 3 pro and even though I've had some really nice prints, the quantity of time of tweaking, adjusting and re adjusting things is way to much I think, besides of the bltouch, silent board and glass bed I had to buy for it. Thanks and keep the great work!
you should do a side by side comparison of different brands of PLA, if you haven't tried Paramount 3D, you should really give it a try. You will love it.
I have 341 days of printing on my MK3S kit, it never failed me and i never had problems with adhesion unless the textured sheet was uncleaned. a quick clean with IPA 99% and its never a problem.
I think you missed the main strength of the Prusa. After owning 5 printers I was sick and tired of calibrating the bed level and first layer height almost every time I wanted to print something. With other printers I always had to baby sit the printer through the first layer because they failed so often early on. The Prusa is a work horse...I tell it to print and walk away because ninety nine out of one hundred times its going to print successfully the first time. This is because the Prusa mesh measures the bed and measures the extruder height with every print and self corrects. I have even missed a small piece of plastic under the magnetic bed surface and it still printed fine...because it self corrects. You are paying for smarts and it shows with the reliability. Glad you like it, I wish you many happy prints!
I used to work at the makerbot factory in NYC, assembling most of the printers they offered at the time until they shipped our jobs to China. I still have an old rep 2 collecting dust (needs a new bit for the hot end, and a serious cleaning) that I was about to try to sell but you've got me mildly interested in bringing it back to life instead...
CHINA
This channel is getting better and better. Thanks for all the edutainment :-) Also those gummy bears would be consumed immediately ...
for the prusa I may suggest to do another first layer pring and lower the z axix until the lines go away there is an adjustment in that setting just dial the know counter clock wise, from the factory setting it took mine a z setting of _ 1010 to smooth out the layer
The more I see other people’s benchys the more I’m floored by how good the Ender 3 is. I picked up a V1 a few weeks ago (Jan / 2021) and a 3DBenchy was the second thing I printed and it came out even better than his fancy $750 printer easily without me having any clue what I was doing.
Post the pitchures
I bought a cheap one off Amazon in 2015 and it's served me well.
Good stuff ! have you heard anything on timing for the larger Prusa ? (PrusaXL)
it would be cool if You could measure the flow and pressure as well as cooling ability so you have some more quantifiable results
For my Prusa as long as the first layer is perfect, the print will 100% stick
Love a Prusa over the others any day. So reliable. I built my one myself. No printing artefacts just a great experience. It took me 15 hours to build mine, didn’t sleep that day 🤣. Loved your video by the way. :)
I got a Prusa mini. I really wanted something reliable and idiot-proof, so I can build my own Ender 3. After that I want to upgrade to a custom wide format 3D, something at least one meter square.
That way I can print big medium and small parts all at the same time.
Forlarren Nice one dude, bare in mind those large format prints don’t look as nice (weaker frame as it is so large) and they can take weeks to print and heated beds are difficult with that size of a printer. How are you doing with your mini?
@@lio1234234 got it 3 days ago, just now putting it together. My shop was a wreck 🤣.
Because of the coof it took several months to deliver, so I watched a few thousand hours of 3D printing tutorials and videos.
One of my first projects is going to be D&D terrain. Something I noticed is the market still hasn't learned from Heroe's quest.
I plan on combining 3D printing with cardstock printing. So you don't have to paint anything, while still getting the ease-of-use of a plastic structure, while also eliminating all glueing.
Forlarren Sounds awesome, have a look at one of the printer palette colour splicers, I feel you might be interested in one of those for the future. I recommend reading all of the comments left by people for each step in the building process in the online manual. Not only does it make it easier, it gives you a better printer at the end. :) 😉 good luck, any questions you have about 3d printing with prusas, exotic materials etc. I’m ya man, just dm me and I’ll give you 1:1 support for free, I’m nice like that. 😁
@@lio1234234 another idea I had was space engineer assets. Stick those little neodymium magnets in the corners. Spaceship blocks.
In a few years when they make an attachment to embed circuits, make the blocks functional/smart. so you can import a blueprint into the game by building the ship/base/station/whatever with blocks in the real world.
Lol this literally came out on the exact time I was thinking about buying a second printer
Perfect timing
Wow, that's a hell of an assembly manual
It is really well done. There is also an online version that also has user comments with hints for tricky steps. Something about the kit that wasn't covered is the bagging and labeling of all the parts (the kitting). Very well done. A bag for each "chapter" of assembly. Scale outlines on the label of the hardware to make it easier to tell 10mm screws from 12mm screws. It's been a while since I assembled mine so I'm sure I'm forgetting other little nice details to make the assembly process easier.
@@Sembazuru My only criticism is...you never did say how long it took you to assemble. Thoroughly enjoyed the video.
@@wildbikerbill6530 Not sure why you are complaining to me about the video not saying how long it took to assemble... But for completeness my assembly took roughly 8 to 10 hours, taking my time to reread each step at least twice while doing the assembly, spread across 2 days. If I had assembled a second one soon after I would probably take at most half that time. It's been long enough that if I were to assemble one now it would probably take about 2/3rds the time of the first assembly. I could probably go faster, but I enjoy assembling kits like this and take my time to enjoy the process. I also like assembling U-Gears kits, IKEA furniture, etc...
@@Sembazuru Thank you.
The assembly manual is really well done and well structured. It was really fun to assemble
My Prusa has over 2000 hours, few hobbed wheel replaced due to my CF filament and that's all.
My prusa has 3000 hours
@@herman3694 did you ever have issues with stuck bearings? Had the y axis unable to move at one point (after 800 hours print time roughly) and had to remove the bearings and regrease them which was a pain in the arse as I had to disassemble half the hotend to reach them -_-
@@Averell64 there is something wrong with the extruder right now im getting a few new parts
Did you just flip me off while holding an octopus on your finger while talking about Prusa issues?
Good to see that prusa still packages their printers with gummies! Was one of the best parts of building my i3 mk2s
Or you could just buy a bag for $1.00
i have something too look forward too lol
11:00 you can notice how wobbly the Q5 is, i bet that has to do with some of the lack of precision, like the octopus from the Prusa was like perfectly round sphere, while the q5 wasn't
I have an ender 3 with several upgrades and it has never printed right. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I've spent days and an absurd amount of failed prints trying to diagnose the problem. Yesterday I got a prusa mini plus and am getting rid of my ender and never looking back.
Hello! PLA does not seem to stick to the textured plate as it is meant for filaments like PETG, ABS etc, the pei stickered sheet is much better for PLA.
Love your work. Keep it up :)
I kept waiting for the sunlight in the window to cycle and the shirt to change....
Painters tape has fixed my print bed adhesion issues on multiple printers
I see you're using non-Prusa filaments with the Prusa. You could try it with some of their Prusament and the associated PrusaSlicer profile, so the extrusion factor is spot-on for the filament throughout the filament roll. The Prusament has much tighter diameter tolerance than the average filament, and in my experience, that makes a huge difference in print quality.
I ordered one Sunday night. Shows It would have had it today. (Wed) but delay it will be here tomorrow. Sounds like they are caught up.
Did you print the octopus with PLA? I use the smooth sheet for PLA and have add almost no problems with adhesion. I use the textured sheet for PETG where I want less adhesion (as PETG sticks too well on the smooth plate).
Id like to address some things regarding the Prusa vs a cheaper competitor. I think if you are a patient person, who has some mechanical sense of how these devices work, you would be better served to save money and go with a cheaper printer.
However, in my area, I do not have pool of people to call on for troubleshooting, and I lack any technical skill in regards to how steppers etc work. So something being somewhat precise was very important... as were features like bed levelling, well designed and safe components (i didnt want to worry about a fire), adhesion, and QUALITY CONTROL FROM THE MANUFACTURER. I wanted to save money on a creality machine, but once I added all of the parts to it, to make it safe... I found a company stateside that would presassemble the creality and make sure the parts were up to spec... ie, nothing out of whack that a novice would have to try to fix with no clue of what to look for... I was looking at spending almost as much as I would on a Prusa....
Hundreds of dollars is not something i can part with mindlessly. I have a small hobby allowance, that I have to dedicate to the dumb crap i enjoy... so pulling the trigger on a prusa was a BIG DEAL.
I would be hard pressed to think of something I have bought, that I could be happier with. It literally has met every expectation. The assembly instructions were spot on. They are LITERALLY step by step, with photos. It is a great resource. Once together... I found and joined a discord channel (unofficial) for Prusas. This was also a great resource.... I had NO idea what I was doing with calibrating the first layer. The discord was itself an invaluable tool (one I am sure exists for other brands.. .and the prusa group is not exclusive... they do what they can to help everyone.. it is literally the best community I have found on discord. VERY welcoming, VERY helpful) Over the course of getting it dialed in, I discovered I was having bed adhesion issues... The one thing I really do not like about the instructions and included kit.. is that it stresses using IPA for cleeaning the bed, and has a crappy towlette included... I folowed the instructions cleaning the bed... and was having issues still.. when I sent a photo of it to the discord, they were like "no.... clean it with dish soap, and try again." I have never repeated the ISO cleaning process.. anytime I experience adhesion issues, it is either because I didnt add a raft, or because I just need to wash the sheet again. I would GUESS that could have been the adhesion problem you had. Since incorporating that method. Ive never had a problem (with PLA) at all.
In closing, I cannot recommend the Prusa enough. It is a workhorse that JUST WORKS. There is no fiddling with it. I set it up a year ago, and have fed hundreds of hours of prints through it, and just had to clean the sheet, and lube the rails. THAT BEING SAID... Unless you have a SOLID reason for needing the bedspace... I would ABSOLUTELY buy a mini over the mk3, and save some cash.
(i mentioned two issues i had with the printer.. the other, like you... is with the filament sensor. I hope it is addressed with the next gen... because I dont care enough about its functionality to disassemble the print head to replace/troubleshoot it)
Wash the bed with soap and water, sometimes they leave mold release on the plate and it makes it impossible to print. I had this problem too and after washing it I had problems
Smooth build plate..
The i3s+ filament sensor has worked flawlessly for me so far. I think they got it right with the current upgrade so would be interested if anyone else has noticed how good the most resent version has been working.
a friend of mine has a large delta, it actually came with a decent duct, but, the files on the card it cam with, included 4 other ducts you could print, and a base to allow you to change them without tools(little clips to make duct swap...or getting it out of the way to swap tips easier), he told me the opposite of what you had been told, having owned a bakers dozen of dif printers, he said the touch screen deltas are almost always superior to similar priced non-delta units...you may need to update the software, but, most of them you just drop the update on a card or usb stick, plug it in, and, either reboot and it sees the file and updates or go into settings and update from there... either way, his advice for the delta was, keep trying dif duct designs, once you find the right one, you shouldnt have those temp issues anymore... he also owns this one you just got, and likes it, but it tends to be setup doing prints for his daughters ebay/etsy/etc stores, enlarge because he told her she could use it when the other printer was down due to a shit extruder(fully replace with a much better one), anyway, hes got quite a few in his garage, she also runs a few of the others alot of the time, shes still trying to use of the 14 cases....CASES of large spools of PLA that his company gave them, because, "its too old" and...that was mostly because the idiot was printing PLA with ABS settings or something like that from what he says... real...genius work there..ROFL...
he also has a printer he built thats...very odd... the table dosnt slide back and forth...it spins... it only does pints a max of 6" thick..but they can be bigger arround them a family size papas pizza.. yeah..... funny part... he used it to print some temp replacements for broken squrl cage fans using some plastic thats harder to break then most of what people use at home, once they tested them, they sent a 3rd unit in, to have another shop, balance it, then turn it into a mold that could be used for injection molding either with better plastic or metal..... its been 3 years... the company has a set of mag alloy ones waiting..for the printed ones to fail....one of the places techs actually balanced them pretty well just doing it using a high speed drill and finding where the heavy spots were...shave a bit off.. anyway... still everybody is shocked.they are exaust fans and.. everybody expected the stuff being sucked out and pushed into the filters was going to break them down.. they had to replace the drive motor though...it caught fire... like...actual flames..i saw cell phone video of that shit.. they shut everything down and cleared the building.. till a tech confirmed it wasnt any leakage that caused the fire.. the motor just got old and started running hot, the heat melted the lacker on the coils and it caught fire.. they changed it to a dual motor system one for each fan, each the size of the original apparently they talked about swapping the fans out but after inspection they still look fine..years later... after constant use and exposure to vapors of stuff that normally causes plastics to break down....surreal...
Lets get a new fan and cooling shroud for the q5 - I'm happy to test the modification on my end as I have the same printer. Larger fan with a new mount same air shroud might do the trick. I also noticed that you have a different filament nozzle than what came with the q5. Was that a modification that helped out?
Would you say that an extruder upgrade for the FLSUN or possibly water cooling could bring it on par with Prusa for less money overall?
@
Major Hardware witch one do u like? FLSUN but the prusa seems better but is dubble the price. im looking to make shells for custom controllers and simular items.
best part about Prusa, when the mk4 comes out they will do an upgrade kit for the mk3s so you wont have to buy a whole new printer to get the latest tech
when is the mk4 coming out?
@@world-traveler880 dunno, it's just how prusa works
i had this POS PRUSA plate. Couldn't get anything to stick to it. Replaced it with the smooth PRUSA plate, everything worked fine.
Im thinking of buying a Prusa mk3 as my first fdm 3d printer
So I was in the same boat as you with my Anycubic Kossel. HOWEVER, the moment I started building stuff that required deminsional accuracy. My 'affordable' Delta printer was a hot load of garbage. Especially when you start printing out side the first 40-50% of the build plate.
Delta printers are great in concept, but the moment cheap out on hardware components. Every fraction of a mm counts on those arms for dimensional accuracy. The length, exact width at the effector and carriages, as well as the angle and arm spacing\parallelism. I did nothing but fight my delta to get it calibrated, and I am a very technical person. The Marlin 2.0 auto calibration isnt working quite right either. It just never seems to be able to account for all the variables.
Then you wind up fighting the delta radius to level the bed manually.
So there are certainly pros and cons of both. The #1 for me, is that traditional cartesian machines, and even corexy machines have predictable mechanics that do not take a mathematician and engineer to figure out. The moment you need a part to fit something not manufactured on the same machine. The system really can fall apart quickly and its hard to tune it out.
Hey great video, BTW your build plate problem, I bought a few new prusa MK3s for the farm during this same period and got them a few weeks ago. My first prusa everything sticks to the textured steel build plate but the 2 I bought recently everything seemed to be having trouble even after hours recalibrating, verifying great first layers, slicer settings, you name it. I cleaned it over and over with 99% IPA and still nothing was sticking. After being a little frustrated I went and washed the build plates with a non abrasive sponge and dish soap, if felt ultra clean after that and everything stuck to the plates of both of the new machines no problem with no adhesive. I have no idea if these plates have a film after manufacturing right now or something changed recently in their process but that worked for me. Hope that helps, and just a disclaimer I imagine dish soap is fine and wont hurt the pei coating lol but I don't know if dawn soap is a textured steel plates kryptonite... Anyway if your still having trouble, that worked for me.
Logan Zimmerman before I sold my ender 3pro I had adhesion issues. The lower percentage isopropyl alchohol took the film off. The higher percentages didn’t.
@@mitchellkasdin1899 good to know TY.
You are not the only one with problems related to bed adhesion. Despite that you have the better option - powder-coated bed; after some period of time somehow it loses some of its qualities. Got nearly the same issue with the PEI bed. Also I notice that till the end of the spool, specially for the Prusament Gray PLA, it gets a little bit worse. One of the best filaments I have used (personal opinion) is FormFutura Premium PLA - no problems with bed adhesion, flow or final look, every time consistent results. Other vendor which I am happy with is Filamentum.
I have a Prusa MK3S and an upgraded Ender 3 with 32bit board , bltouch and some other stuff. Both print very well, but the thing with the Prusa that I love its that even when the print starts I dont have to baby it. Everytime works great and very consistent. In the Ender 3 I have to always be there at start to take the bits of filament that build up with a tweezer. its a big price difference but for me the reliability and consistency of the Prusa its very nice and worth it if you have the cash.
I prefer direct drive too. The loading/unloading of filament its a breeze and all the extra features that Prusa have that are very nice and gives a better user experience. But for sure the Ender 3 its a great printer and super cheap. I bought mine some months ago in Ali express in a promotion for 147 Eur. Its difficult to get more for your money :)
I have the texture build plate and the smooth one and I prefer the smooth. Don't need to add glue and it sticks everytime. I just clean with IPA and its good to go.
Great video!
I've got a mk2.5s i3. The differences to me are kinda minor (mine is 12v instead of 24v, no power fail protection, and no step skip protection). The reason I upgraded was to get the removable bed and current firmware updates for the printer. The upgraded hot end has improved the print quality substantially too.
Was looking to get a secondary printer, but I wanted to get something that wasn't going to be a substantial downgrade in print quality, while being able to do really tall prints. Looks like the q5 is a great choice to compliment my prusa in that regard.
Look into the flsun qqs. A very good machine and larger volume than the Q5
10:08 clean the bed with ipa, sometimes when you do that the prints stick to well.
I had the same problem, couldn't get prints to stick - tried big brims, temperatures, etc. Then I cleaned it with ipa and everything stuck perfectly first go.
Im actually trying to decide between these two printers right now! Hopefully Ill make the right choice.
What did you pick?
We all need to know
What was the choice?
Ok man which one was it, spill the beans
I haven't heard anything about Prusa working on a Delta printer. I have heard, however, about development on a larger print volume with a coreXY architecture. (Early talks from Jo himself were about trying to get a 400mm cubed print volume. Just to give you an idea of the early design goals, which we all know evolve over time.)
I suggest trying rear seams, a lot of those imperfections are from random layers.
Yes, it is clear that the settings were randomly distributed seams...put them all on ine corner and you are all set...will look great.
I also have a Prusa mk3s amongst other printers, but I use Ultimaker's Cura (v4.7) lol.... do you find the prusa slicer any better?
Also, love the music when building, but did you not eat the gummy bears? You can get in trouble for not eating them....
Not sure if you are aware of this, but the IR sensor issue on the filament sensor is the sensor sitting too low. Prusa forums has a piece you can print, literally a 1min print that gets installed under the sensor to increase the height by 0.5mm and will make the sensor trigger accurately.
I like that sherk I'm going to print something with UV reactive transparent layers and put them in a room with loads of blacklights everywhere it'll be well trippy
Any problems with the bearings (lots of rattling noises from the y and z axis)? I got mine three weeks ago and had to replace almost all of the original bearings... I would defiantly pick up a silicone sock for the hot end (it attracts a LOT of burnt filament) and put a little bit of hot glue in the lcd case (it rattles) otherwise I love the quality of mine. I really don't like the new build plates (I have the smooth and textured) and went with a WhamBam which is awesome.
That's a good question. Is 'apples to apples', using the respective recommended settings, or is it using the same setting on both? And is that setting the recommended setting of neither?
Prusa's secret for cooling is the 40mm noctua fan. Signature better airflow/pressure/noise profile...maybe you can mount one into the q5