I agree that the problem potentially was the grounding lug and wire no longer has a tight connection, which leads to intermittent problems or it jusy not working, but dude fix the car and include it in the video!!! These vehicles have crapy grounds, just like the 1 on the transmission under the radiator hose. Thank You for the video, was a good video, other than seeing it fixed!!!
Hey man my kobalt 2005 was dead for about a month The battery and when I went to start it the key lock thing ain't on but it's not firing I ain't getting no fire to my fuel injectors I can pour gas in the carburetor and it
I’m going to go out and try this now. I have a 2005 classic with a 2.2. The shop had it for a week with a no start and then it mysteriously started after wiggling wires. Go out there this morning won’t start. The kid needs to go to college. And it can’t get towed out of the parking garage. It’s too tight.
It’s fixed. The shop did not listen to me about the pass lock. As soon as I turn the key, I could see it flashing. I checked the resistor I put in couple years ago. It was no longer 2200. It was 1860. So anyways, that’s what was wrong. And that’s why I do my own work.
My daughter called me today and said her 2010 Chevy Cobalt wouldn't start. It was a crank, start for a second or two and then die. I go over to see if I can figure it out. Put the scanner on it and no codes. I check for fuel at the access port and it has fuel pressure. I have her turn on the key and I go listen for the fuel pump and I can hear it turn on. I go to the under hood fuse box and start checking fuses with my test light. With the key on, almost the entire right half of the fuse box has no power to the fuses including the fuel pump fuse which is weird because the fuel pump comes on. I even had her turn the key off and than back on as I held the test light to the top of the fuse and never got power during the prime. I move away from the fuse box for the moment and then decide to unplug the MAF sensor and see if it will start which it doesn't. I decide to pull the MAF sensor out and look it over and don't see anything wrong with it but I clean it with some MAF cleaner and re-install it and plug it back in and now the car starts. I don't have access to a wiring diagram for her car so I can't see when the fuses should be hot but it was strange to me that at least for the fuel pump fuse I could never get my test light to light up during my initial checking. I forgot to check it after I got the car running. I did pull the fuse initially and it was not blown. Do you have any idea why I experienced what I did and why half of the fuses in the under hood fuse box had no power with the key on?
Try taking fuse box cover off and check if there is two sets of power lines feeding each side the fuse box who knows maybe there's two grounds and one of the grounds was bad I'm only writing this because my car just shut off on me while driving yesterday and I'm having a crank but no start issue I'm not a mechanic but definitely mechanically inclined and I know my 2005 Chevy Cobalt is a rust bucket including all connections
@@johnnymackbrownjr8660 Everything else on the car works so maybe some of the stuff is not powered unless it's in use such as some accessories. I did end up putting a new MAF sensor in it because the cleaning of the old one didn't last. No problems since the replacement.
Thank You!!! My Dad’s car shut down and left him stranded. After replacing many things, I watched you video and fixed it !!!!
I agree that the problem potentially was the grounding lug and wire no longer has a tight connection, which leads to intermittent problems or it jusy not working, but dude fix the car and include it in the video!!!
These vehicles have crapy grounds, just like the 1 on the transmission under the radiator hose.
Thank You for the video, was a good video, other than seeing it fixed!!!
Did it work?
but did it fix the problem?
Found that the coil grounds broke from the bolt. Can I put the grounds anywhere to ground them?
Yes
What is the correct voltage to your coil grounds with the proper block ground?
Need to know where each of the engine compartment harness connectors connect to? Thanks
Hey man my kobalt 2005 was dead for about a month The battery and when I went to start it the key lock thing ain't on but it's not firing I ain't getting no fire to my fuel injectors I can pour gas in the carburetor and it
My cobalt tach doesn't move,it no run, help?😊
This car's electrical system will be the end of me.
I’d rather kms than keep working on this pos
thank you for your video. it help me out..
Nice work buddy
I’m going to go out and try this now. I have a 2005 classic with a 2.2. The shop had it for a week with a no start and then it mysteriously started after wiggling wires. Go out there this morning won’t start. The kid needs to go to college. And it can’t get towed out of the parking garage. It’s too tight.
It’s fixed. The shop did not listen to me about the pass lock. As soon as I turn the key, I could see it flashing. I checked the resistor I put in couple years ago. It was no longer 2200. It was 1860. So anyways, that’s what was wrong. And that’s why I do my own work.
My daughter called me today and said her 2010 Chevy Cobalt wouldn't start. It was a crank, start for a second or two and then die. I go over to see if I can figure it out. Put the scanner on it and no codes. I check for fuel at the access port and it has fuel pressure. I have her turn on the key and I go listen for the fuel pump and I can hear it turn on. I go to the under hood fuse box and start checking fuses with my test light. With the key on, almost the entire right half of the fuse box has no power to the fuses including the fuel pump fuse which is weird because the fuel pump comes on. I even had her turn the key off and than back on as I held the test light to the top of the fuse and never got power during the prime. I move away from the fuse box for the moment and then decide to unplug the MAF sensor and see if it will start which it doesn't. I decide to pull the MAF sensor out and look it over and don't see anything wrong with it but I clean it with some MAF cleaner and re-install it and plug it back in and now the car starts.
I don't have access to a wiring diagram for her car so I can't see when the fuses should be hot but it was strange to me that at least for the fuel pump fuse I could never get my test light to light up during my initial checking. I forgot to check it after I got the car running. I did pull the fuse initially and it was not blown. Do you have any idea why I experienced what I did and why half of the fuses in the under hood fuse box had no power with the key on?
Try taking fuse box cover off and check if there is two sets of power lines feeding each side the fuse box who knows maybe there's two grounds and one of the grounds was bad I'm only writing this because my car just shut off on me while driving yesterday and I'm having a crank but no start issue I'm not a mechanic but definitely mechanically inclined and I know my 2005 Chevy Cobalt is a rust bucket including all connections
@@johnnymackbrownjr8660 Everything else on the car works so maybe some of the stuff is not powered unless it's in use such as some accessories. I did end up putting a new MAF sensor in it because the cleaning of the old one didn't last. No problems since the replacement.
Did you figure out what caused this?
@@sbond1963 The new MAF sensor fixed the car. It's been fine since the replacement. I did use an AC-Delco replacement.
And shows reduced engine power and code reader won't connect
2006 colbalt cran k inyeter 1 stay Open why
مرحبا ممكن إرسال المخططات محتاجها جدا
Common bad ground connection with gm especially 2.2 2.0 2.4 engines