Another excellent "how to" video. After 50 years of riding, I only fitted my 1st riveted chain a couple of Yr ago, following Dell Boys Garage. You covered everything very well. The only thing he mentioned was cheap chain tool work perfectly well for assembly Only. £10 did so, but your tool looks far better. As a long time abuser of chains, I fitted a NEMO.2 hand operated oiler to my Meteor. Half turn every 100mls and the chain is perfect, using EP90 gear oil. Came out tops in RyanF9s extensive lube test. Keep them coming., always great.
Yep, l also have a Nemo 2 oiler, brilliant bit of kit for the price though I actually use Scott oil in it, I actually think it’s better than a auto oiler as you can easily adjust how often you use it depending on the conditions you’re in, both of my bikes are cable clutch so I have mounted the reservoir on the left side of the bars easily to use and matches the brake reservoir on the right
Excellent comments. Yes I agree a chain oiler is well worth fitting. I have Scottoiler on my Tiger 900 and the Classic 350 also has one now. That video will be out 19th March 😁 Great to hear that you enjoyed the videos 👍
Great video, could you also perhaps one day show how to tension the chain correctly and wheel alignment please ? There are very few videos out there showing how to do it properly and I believe you would explain and show it better than the ones I’ve seen so far. I found it a more difficult job than I expected and it’s still not right. I have the classic 350 too. Kind regards, Steve ( Bournemouth )
Hi Stephen I’ll add that suggestion to my list of possible videos to make. Thanks for the suggestion and compliments. It’ll probably near the end of the year though as I’ve a lot of things planned for the coming months now that the riding season is about to start here in Scotland. Great to hear that you’re enjoying my videos and finding them helpful 👍
Seeing a micrometer deployed is very pleasing to this old engineer. Vernier caliper's can be handy in some circumstances but are known in the trade as "guessing sticks". Top job fitting the new chain 👍
Yes a micrometer is far more accurate than vernier calliper’s, but they’re better than nothing. Thank you for your kind comments, very much appreciated. I hope your enjoying the videos I’m creating 👍
Thanks for another usefull do it yourself video. Loving your work. Wish someone in Holland made such video's like you guys in england/ scotland make. Really enjoying it. I am still waiting for the performance camshaft and use your video to make that happen. Thanks again. Berry
Hi Berry Glad to be of service 😁 Great to hear that you’re enjoying my videos and hopefully finding them helpful. You’ll love the camshaft when you get it installed, makes a huge difference to the performance of the bike. Cheers TN
Super informative video again, thank you very much, I'm glad that the chain comes with a spring type link too, as I'd need at least 3 of the compression type before I got it right. My old Bullet 500 in the 90's came with a built in chain oiler, a rubber breather tube from the engine which had a flattened end which sprayed oil on the chain (and the road!) Stay safe....
Hi Pete Unfortunately you only get one chance to fit the compression link, unless you buy extra ones 🤣 Like you I wasn’t sure if I could do this, watched lots of videos. I’m pretty capable on the tools so though I would give it a go. I did have the spring clip links to use if it all went wrong. Actually, having the correct tools, as always, made it very easy. Love your old style chain oilers, great idea. Modern bikes recycle that oil back into the engine to be burnt. Glad you enjoyed the video 👍
That was a very comprehensive video indeed, thank you. I am now using Tutoro chain oilers on my bikes. I do miss the large behind the behind number plate reservoirs that Scottoiler offered though. Edward
Hi Edward Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I used to have the behind number plate Scottoiler reservoir on my old Triumph Sprint ST many years ago. It was a great unit but I much prefer the more modern electric X system that I have on my Tiger 900. Ride safe 👍
Hi John Great to hear that you enjoyed my video and found it helpful. I think my camshaft video is partly the reason they keep selling out, it’s had almost 60,000 views, don’t think the chain tool will be as popular as that though 🤣
Another very good how it should be done video 😊 I would have used the split pin, though 😂 when I saw a split pin on my Himalayan I thought that's great I can change the chain now 🙂👍
Thanks A.R. I have a split pin set for the chain that I can use if I ever need to take the chain off the bike. I just thought I would give this a try as I’ve never done it before. It’s a handy tool and experience to have if I need to change a chain on one of my other more powerful bikes. I hate having to go to dealers to get work done that I’m able to do myself 🤣 Great to hear that you enjoyed the video 👍 Ride safe TN
That video will be out on the 19th March. I have one fitted to my Tiger 900, have been using it for years. In my opinion it’s a fantastic bit of kit, highly recommended. Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful 👍
Hello sir, thank you for the video. Today I also waited for my motorbike Royal Enfield Classic 350 to arrive in my city. I bought it five days ago from the city of Jakarta Indonesia and sent it by ship to my city in Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia 😃🙏🎉
I didn’t notice any stop lines on the pins. I installed the new exactly the same as DID recommend doing following watching one of their videos. Hope you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
A very handy how to. I've always had chains replaced at dealers (as they've been 100bhp+) but with my meteor I'd like to do more at home so will be looking to do exactly this job. I was contemplating the split pin route as they are low powered. What I have found is that in over 40 years of owning bikes the chain on the meteor is poor quality. I used a dry lube (wurth) that was recommended and ended up with stiff links after 2000 miles of my usual chain maintenance. I then gave it a good clean and lube with gear oil and then moved to a wet lube (tru tension) and the stiff links have gone and the chain runs fine again (now upto 5500miles).
Hi Walt Many thanks for your input, your method makes a lot of sense. Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it informative. Ride safe 👍
@@brendonhughes4580 So I'm not alone, it has such a good reputation and tested well with bennetts, but I swear it was the cause of my problems on my meteor. Plus, both my meteor and triumph had rust appear on the chains over winter, which had never happened to me before and hasn't happened since stopping using it. Tru tension bannana slip chain lube is now my favourite.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. Yes the Dremel worked a treat, initially I was going to use my angle grinder but thought I would try the Dremel first. Glad I did as it was so much easier to use 😁
Working and getting to really know your own bike is always more satisfying than depending on a dealership. Hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful 👍
On my first service at 300 miles I asked the mechanic to get me a DID chain and fit it while sorting the service. After a couple of hundred miles the new chain was adjusted and all I have done since is run the chain through a gear oil soaked rag. The bike has now done over 3000 miles and the chain looks like new and the tension is still spot on. Just a thought are your sprockets not worn if your old chain was developing tight spots ? Great video and you obviously fitted the chain very well. I must say I never liked the Scott oiler and ended up removing it as I found the face of the links ended up rusting, hence why I now just use gear oil on a clean rag especially as the Classic has a centre stand ! 😊
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful. The sprockets were in very good shape so didn’t need replacing. The Scottoiler works great, especially when backed up with an oily rag as you use 🤣
Another excellent tutorial TN, thanks. As it happens my Classic 350 has just developed stuck links as did a friend’s Meteor, seems like a poor quality chain as my Kawasaki has double the mileage without issue. In the video you say 52 links, Hitchcocks state 104, I’m guessing you’re counting plates and they the pins? Regardless I’m ordering the D.I.D and that tool so thank you; the micrometer tip is also appreciated.
Hi Dondle I inspected the sprockets and they’re both in excellent condition. Changing the chain before it’s really stretched and worn out definitely helps. I recon using that logic you should be able to get 2 or possibly even 3 chains out of a set of sprockets. Great to hear that you enjoyed the video 👍
The chain can also be fitted with a spring clip, as normally used many years ago. Also with the low power of this bike there wouldn’t be any problems with that. The chain came with both options, I chose to use the riveting method. Hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful 👍
My 1986 Yamaha has the original chain... 26K Miles. Seems ok to me. My understanding is to replace both sprockets at the same time as the chain. Not that expensive. I don't know if that matters I changed my front sprocket only, the chain and back sprocket are original.
The sprockets were both in excellent condition and had not stretched so no,need to change them. The chain was only replaced due to rust and stiff links. Hope,you enjoyed the video 👍
The D I D. Gold chains. Are wonderful. I used. Chain wax. And chain spray. Cleaner. I used it on my K T M. Super moto. All the time I used the bike. I only turned two flats on the adjusters. O Ring Chan. Lemay. Nelson. Vancouver Washington. Northwest. U. S A.
Thanks, another excellent video to be saved for future reference. My Kent Cams has eventually arrived from Hitchcocks so will be referencing your Cam fitting video in the next few weeks. I might have to consider unsubscribing, as previously mentioned you do seem to have a habit of making me spend money 😉, I just can not get the thought of a Gold chain out of my head now 😮. Once again thanks for great content. 😀
Hi Mark I sincerely apologise for the devastating effect my channel is having on your bank balance. I fully understand the problem as I’ve been suffering with the very same issue since buying my Classic 350. It’s completely irrational to spend so much money on such an inexpensive bike. But WOW, the enjoyment it’s brought me has been worth every penny, unfortunately I don’t see an end to my suffering 🤣 Ride safe and enjoy the transformation the camshaft will bring. TN 🏍️😁👍
The sprockets were in very good condition so no need to change them. The old chain hadn’t stretched, it was only changes due to rust and still links. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
@tigerness5555 oh OK....I used to remove the chain if it got like that place it in a old saucepan and cover it in old engine oil and bring it up to a sort of simmer the oil lubricates the chain like nothing else...you do have to have a very understanding wife tho.....
The pro chain tool looks fab, will definitely get one. Are you going to do a video on setting the chain tension and squaring up rear wheel ? I know there are a lot out there already but I like your compassion for the jobs you do on the bike.
Hi Jon Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 I’m not planning on doing a video on chain adjustment, as you say there’s plenty already out on TH-cam. I’ve got a lot of much more interesting and hopefully enjoyable videos coming out in the next few months 🏍️😁
Hmm...maybe....However, I noticed that someone has produced a belt drive for a RE...I did enjoy the vid', and it made me wish I had all the right tools for the job....@@tigerness5555
Should be a good quality chain. What mileage did you cover on the standard chain Ian? How you get on with throttle body? Get Cd Copland motors to do this one, at service time.. away out to garage give green Rebel a clean, from Sunday’s run . Weather hopefully improves from now on. Best wishes.😊
Hi Mark The old chain reached almost 6,000 miles. The throttle body is another story. I fitted mine and went for the first start up. Flicked the start switch, nothing. After playing around I discovered that the clutch has to be pulled in before flicking the switch, and it started. Never had to do that before. I then found the engine management light was on. No problem get out my OBD2 reader, find the fault and clear it. Found a U0155 fault code “Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module”. Tried to clear the code but it wouldn’t clear. So the management light stays on. I also noticed when turning on the ignition and when the speedometer does its sweep thing that the neutral light flashed on then off. Once the engine was started the neutral light no longer works. There may be other issues I’ve not discovered but I wasn’t too happy at that point so put the original body back on and the bike was instantly perfect again. I sent a message to Raju this morning detailing my findings. It’s strange that the 2 Meteors that were fitted with the same new body both worked perfectly. I was driving up to Arbroath this afternoon and Raju phoned me. After chatting with him, bearing in mind I was driving and he was speaking Indian English, and he’s supplied lots of the bodies to Hunter and Meteor owners but I’m the first Classic 350 buyer from him. So at the moment I still don’t really know if my bike is incompatible with the body or it’s faulty. As there’s a lot of Meteors around I’m going to offer it to someone who can try it on there bike to see if it works ok for them. If it does then it would prove that it’s not suitable for the Classic 350. No great issue, don’t think I’d really enjoy going everywhere at over 80mph on the wee bike 🤣
@@tigerness5555 i am willing to take it from you, to try. Geezzz O Ian, big hassle, i would be in tears and stressed out. Be nice if their is a fix, so it can fit the Classic. Fingers crossed.
I thought you had ordered one? I’ve just been communicating with Bobster and we’re going to try it on their Meteor to see if it’s ok or faulty. No rush this should happen in the next month or so. If it’s ok then you can have it, should even be able to fit it for as well.
@@tigerness5555 that be fantastic. Bobster, did message me, to say he fitted to Kates bike, and hit more than the indicated 75. Also Calum had fitted the cam/TB to his Meteor, and left Kates in the dust. Just give you more control if you do an overtake. Looking at getting the fuel X too.
Hi Chris LOL, I had that number on two MX5’s a razor blue MK 2.5 Arctic special edition and a silver MK 3.5 GT Sport Tech. It was SL0 5UXS until the police pulled me up so forced to revert back to SL05 UXS I also had a white MK 4 Icon special edition, MX55 BUZ 🤣 All great cars which I had a lot of years trouble free miles of fun with. That number may well be on a red MX5 now though.
Yes you’re correct, you can use this method as well. I put a link to a video made by DID in the video description, the tools and method I followed was exactly the same as they demonstrated. I thought that surely the manufacturer would show the correct method. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Yes the factory chain that I removed from my bike does have the rubber o rings. The DID X link chain that I fitted has rubber X rings. This is an improvement to the O ring apparently.
I had a choice, spring clip link or compression link. Both types came with the chain. I decided to use the compression type. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Hi there. Don't they make quick links for motorbike chains? Getting older, but I thought I replaced many chains on , yes bicycles, but also motorbikes. The Classic 350 has less than 16 HP out the wheel. I know you said it was your first time, but no way anybody would ever pay for that labor to replace the chain. And 99% of the time, you are out in the boonies with no tools when a chain fails on you.
Yes they do still have quick links and the DID chain that I fitted comes with both options. I chose to use the rivet type in this case but you’re correct, with such a low power bike the quick link option wouldn’t be a problem. As to the cost of the tool, yes it was expensive, but I have three bikes and I see the cost as an investment in the maintenance of all of them. A friend of mine’s chain snapped and it almost wrecked his engine and nearly cost him his life. His bike was fitted with a quick link and it was that part that failed. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Another excellent "how to" video.
After 50 years of riding, I only fitted my 1st riveted chain a couple of Yr ago, following Dell Boys Garage.
You covered everything very well.
The only thing he mentioned was cheap chain tool work perfectly well for assembly Only.
£10 did so, but your tool looks far better.
As a long time abuser of chains, I fitted a NEMO.2 hand operated oiler to my Meteor. Half turn every 100mls and the chain is perfect, using EP90 gear oil. Came out tops in RyanF9s extensive lube test.
Keep them coming., always great.
Yep, l also have a Nemo 2 oiler, brilliant bit of kit for the price though I actually use Scott oil in it, I actually think it’s better than a auto oiler as you can easily adjust how often you use it depending on the conditions you’re in, both of my bikes are cable clutch so I have mounted the reservoir on the left side of the bars easily to use and matches the brake reservoir on the right
Excellent comments. Yes I agree a chain oiler is well worth fitting.
I have Scottoiler on my Tiger 900 and the Classic 350 also has one now. That video will be out 19th March 😁
Great to hear that you enjoyed the videos 👍
Great video, could you also perhaps one day show how to tension the chain correctly and wheel alignment please ? There are very few videos out there showing how to do it properly and I believe you would explain and show it better than the ones I’ve seen so far. I found it a more difficult job than I expected and it’s still not right. I have the classic 350 too. Kind regards, Steve ( Bournemouth )
Hi Stephen
I’ll add that suggestion to my list of possible videos to make. Thanks for the suggestion and compliments. It’ll probably near the end of the year though as I’ve a lot of things planned for the coming months now that the riding season is about to start here in Scotland.
Great to hear that you’re enjoying my videos and finding them helpful 👍
Seeing a micrometer deployed is very pleasing to this old engineer. Vernier caliper's can be handy in some circumstances but are known in the trade as "guessing sticks". Top job fitting the new chain 👍
Yes a micrometer is far more accurate than vernier calliper’s, but they’re better than nothing.
Thank you for your kind comments, very much appreciated. I hope your enjoying the videos I’m creating 👍
Congratulations on getting over 4K subscribers. Fantastic 🎉
Thank Mark, another wee milestone on the way to fame but not fortune 🤣
Merci, toujours aussi bon pédagogue, au plaisir de vous revoir !
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
amazing timing. i'm sitting here watching this, waiting for the chain to be delivered. thanks!
Glad to be of service 😁
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and have found it helpful 👍
Good job, you do professional work on your bikes can't wait to see you install the chain lubrication kit. Have a nice day.
Thank you, great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful.
The Scottoiler video will be out on the 19th March 👍
Great video ,I have never done that job before ,you made it look easy ,thankyou.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video David. Hopefully you found it helpful 👍
Thanks for the wonderful video.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Brilliantly explained, masterfully executed & professional finish on a spectacular motorcycle ⭐️ Well done Tiger🥇
Thank you so much for your kind words, it’s very much appreciated 👍
Thanks for another usefull do it yourself video. Loving your work. Wish someone in Holland made such video's like you guys in england/ scotland make. Really enjoying it. I am still waiting for the performance camshaft and use your video to make that happen. Thanks again. Berry
Hi Berry
Glad to be of service 😁
Great to hear that you’re enjoying my videos and hopefully finding them helpful. You’ll love the camshaft when you get it installed, makes a huge difference to the performance of the bike.
Cheers TN
Super informative video again, thank you very much, I'm glad that the chain comes with a spring type link too, as I'd need at least 3 of the compression type before I got it right.
My old Bullet 500 in the 90's came with a built in chain oiler, a rubber breather tube from the engine which had a flattened end which sprayed oil on the chain (and the road!) Stay safe....
Hi Pete
Unfortunately you only get one chance to fit the compression link, unless you buy extra ones 🤣
Like you I wasn’t sure if I could do this, watched lots of videos. I’m pretty capable on the tools so though I would give it a go. I did have the spring clip links to use if it all went wrong. Actually, having the correct tools, as always, made it very easy.
Love your old style chain oilers, great idea. Modern bikes recycle that oil back into the engine to be burnt.
Glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Your welcome, all part of the service 👍
That was a very comprehensive video indeed, thank you. I am now using Tutoro chain oilers on my bikes. I do miss the large behind the behind number plate reservoirs that Scottoiler offered though. Edward
Hi Edward
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful.
I used to have the behind number plate Scottoiler reservoir on my old Triumph Sprint ST many years ago. It was a great unit but I much prefer the more modern electric X system that I have on my Tiger 900.
Ride safe 👍
Good to see a proper chain tool recommended . There is so much junk on ebay etc , so I have ordered one now before you cause a sell out .😉
Hi John
Great to hear that you enjoyed my video and found it helpful. I think my camshaft video is partly the reason they keep selling out, it’s had almost 60,000 views, don’t think the chain tool will be as popular as that though 🤣
Another very good how it should be done video 😊 I would have used the split pin, though 😂 when I saw a split pin on my Himalayan I thought that's great I can change the chain now 🙂👍
Thanks A.R.
I have a split pin set for the chain that I can use if I ever need to take the chain off the bike. I just thought I would give this a try as I’ve never done it before. It’s a handy tool and experience to have if I need to change a chain on one of my other more powerful bikes. I hate having to go to dealers to get work done that I’m able to do myself 🤣
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video 👍
Ride safe TN
Good stuff TN, be interesting to see the fitting and your thoughts on the scottoiler if you go down that route 👍
That video will be out on the 19th March.
I have one fitted to my Tiger 900, have been using it for years. In my opinion it’s a fantastic bit of kit, highly recommended.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful 👍
Hello sir, thank you for the video. Today I also waited for my motorbike Royal Enfield Classic 350 to arrive in my city. I bought it five days ago from the city of Jakarta Indonesia and sent it by ship to my city in Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia 😃🙏🎉
Great 👍
Its MrT the new link with pins if u notice the pins have stop lines so the plate can't go any further when attaching new side plate
I didn’t notice any stop lines on the pins. I installed the new exactly the same as DID recommend doing following watching one of their videos. Hope you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
A very handy how to. I've always had chains replaced at dealers (as they've been 100bhp+) but with my meteor I'd like to do more at home so will be looking to do exactly this job. I was contemplating the split pin route as they are low powered. What I have found is that in over 40 years of owning bikes the chain on the meteor is poor quality. I used a dry lube (wurth) that was recommended and ended up with stiff links after 2000 miles of my usual chain maintenance. I then gave it a good clean and lube with gear oil and then moved to a wet lube (tru tension) and the stiff links have gone and the chain runs fine again (now upto 5500miles).
Hi Walt
Many thanks for your input, your method makes a lot of sense.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it informative. Ride safe 👍
Wurth drylube ruined my did o ring chain within 6 months and i lubed my chain every week, never again, back to the messy castrol no more problems.
@@brendonhughes4580 So I'm not alone, it has such a good reputation and tested well with bennetts, but I swear it was the cause of my problems on my meteor. Plus, both my meteor and triumph had rust appear on the chains over winter, which had never happened to me before and hasn't happened since stopping using it. Tru tension bannana slip chain lube is now my favourite.
Using a Dremel is a great idea... protecting the bike from the sparks would be next level...
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful.
Yes the Dremel worked a treat, initially I was going to use my angle grinder but thought I would try the Dremel first. Glad I did as it was so much easier to use 😁
Is there anything more satisfying than doing a job like this? Of course not 👍
Working and getting to really know your own bike is always more satisfying than depending on a dealership.
Hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful 👍
On my first service at 300 miles I asked the mechanic to get me a DID chain and fit it while sorting the service. After a couple of hundred miles the new chain was adjusted and all I have done since is run the chain through a gear oil soaked rag. The bike has now done over 3000 miles and the chain looks like new and the tension is still spot on. Just a thought are your sprockets not worn if your old chain was developing tight spots ?
Great video and you obviously fitted the chain very well.
I must say I never liked the Scott oiler and ended up removing it as I found the face of the links ended up rusting, hence why I now just use gear oil on a clean rag especially as the Classic has a centre stand ! 😊
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful.
The sprockets were in very good shape so didn’t need replacing. The Scottoiler works great, especially when backed up with an oily rag as you use 🤣
Another excellent tutorial TN, thanks. As it happens my Classic 350 has just developed stuck links as did a friend’s Meteor, seems like a poor quality chain as my Kawasaki has double the mileage without issue. In the video you say 52 links, Hitchcocks state 104, I’m guessing you’re counting plates and they the pins? Regardless I’m ordering the D.I.D and that tool so thank you; the micrometer tip is also appreciated.
Hi Simon
Yes I did count the 52 plates. Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and found it useful 👍
Good vid, I think I would have also renewed the sprockets.
Hi Dondle
I inspected the sprockets and they’re both in excellent condition. Changing the chain before it’s really stretched and worn out definitely helps. I recon using that logic you should be able to get 2 or possibly even 3 chains out of a set of sprockets.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video 👍
Fantastic informative video. Out of curiosity how many miles had the old chain done ? Look forward to more videos 👍
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful.
The old chain had covered almost 6,000 miles 👍
That is good mileage, thanks for the reply
@@tigerness5555
Great job! I admit that I am surprised that the chain is not connected with a pin but has to be pressed, which makes things much more difficult.
The chain can also be fitted with a spring clip, as normally used many years ago. Also with the low power of this bike there wouldn’t be any problems with that. The chain came with both options, I chose to use the riveting method.
Hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful 👍
@@tigerness5555 Ok, so the factory chain with which I bought my classic 350 has these O-rings?
@@krzysztofmat7673you’d be hard pressed to find a bike without o-rings these days.
@@elwood62 Thank you
My 1986 Yamaha has the original chain... 26K Miles. Seems ok to me. My understanding is to replace both sprockets at the same time as the chain. Not that expensive. I don't know if that matters I changed my front sprocket only, the chain and back sprocket are original.
The sprockets were both in excellent condition and had not stretched so no,need to change them. The chain was only replaced due to rust and stiff links.
Hope,you enjoyed the video 👍
How many’s miles did you have on the old chain? Great vid as well!
Great to hear that you enjoyed my video and hopefully found it helpful. The old chain had covered almost 6,000 miles 👍
The D I D. Gold chains. Are wonderful. I used. Chain wax. And chain spray. Cleaner. I used it on my K T M. Super moto. All the time I used the bike. I only turned two flats on the adjusters. O Ring Chan. Lemay. Nelson. Vancouver Washington. Northwest. U. S A.
Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks, another excellent video to be saved for future reference. My Kent Cams has eventually arrived from Hitchcocks so will be referencing your Cam fitting video in the next few weeks. I might have to consider unsubscribing, as previously mentioned you do seem to have a habit of making me spend money 😉, I just can not get the thought of a Gold chain out of my head now 😮. Once again thanks for great content. 😀
Hi Mark
I sincerely apologise for the devastating effect my channel is having on your bank balance. I fully understand the problem as I’ve been suffering with the very same issue since buying my Classic 350. It’s completely irrational to spend so much money on such an inexpensive bike.
But WOW, the enjoyment it’s brought me has been worth every penny, unfortunately I don’t see an end to my suffering 🤣
Ride safe and enjoy the transformation the camshaft will bring.
TN 🏍️😁👍
@@tigerness5555 😀😀😀👍👍👍
Usually a set of sprockets is a good idea as the chain had stretched it damages them
The sprockets were in very good condition so no need to change them. The old chain hadn’t stretched, it was only changes due to rust and still links.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
@tigerness5555 oh OK....I used to remove the chain if it got like that place it in a old saucepan and cover it in old engine oil and bring it up to a sort of simmer the oil lubricates the chain like nothing else...you do have to have a very understanding wife tho.....
The pro chain tool looks fab, will definitely get one. Are you going to do a video on setting the chain tension and squaring up rear wheel ? I know there are a lot out there already but I like your compassion for the jobs you do on the bike.
Hi Jon
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
I’m not planning on doing a video on chain adjustment, as you say there’s plenty already out on TH-cam.
I’ve got a lot of much more interesting and hopefully enjoyable videos coming out in the next few months 🏍️😁
Well done...now I remember why I bought a scooter for my old age.....I hate chains LOL
Nothing wrong with a good old fashioned chain.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Hmm...maybe....However, I noticed that someone has produced a belt drive for a RE...I did enjoy the vid', and it made me wish I had all the right tools for the job....@@tigerness5555
Good choice avoiding a gold chain for the classic, it wouid be like your great Granny wearing Ann Summers
LOL, my sentiments exactly, keep it subtle 🤣
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
@tigerness5555 Aye, always enjoy your uploads, if I had the funds for a 2nd bike it would be the wee Enfield
Should be a good quality chain. What mileage did you cover on the standard chain Ian?
How you get on with throttle body?
Get Cd Copland motors to do this one, at service time..
away out to garage give green Rebel a clean, from Sunday’s run .
Weather hopefully improves from now on. Best wishes.😊
Hi Mark
The old chain reached almost 6,000 miles.
The throttle body is another story.
I fitted mine and went for the first start up. Flicked the start switch, nothing.
After playing around I discovered that the clutch has to be pulled in before flicking the switch, and it started. Never had to do that before.
I then found the engine management light was on.
No problem get out my OBD2 reader, find the fault and clear it.
Found a U0155 fault code “Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module”.
Tried to clear the code but it wouldn’t clear.
So the management light stays on.
I also noticed when turning on the ignition and when the speedometer does its sweep thing that the neutral light flashed on then off.
Once the engine was started the neutral light no longer works.
There may be other issues I’ve not discovered but I wasn’t too happy at that point so put the original body back on and the bike was instantly perfect again.
I sent a message to Raju this morning detailing my findings. It’s strange that the 2 Meteors that were fitted with the same new body both worked perfectly.
I was driving up to Arbroath this afternoon and Raju phoned me. After chatting with him, bearing in mind I was driving and he was speaking Indian English, and he’s supplied lots of the bodies to Hunter and Meteor owners but I’m the first Classic 350 buyer from him.
So at the moment I still don’t really know if my bike is incompatible with the body or it’s faulty.
As there’s a lot of Meteors around I’m going to offer it to someone who can try it on there bike to see if it works ok for them. If it does then it would prove that it’s not suitable for the Classic 350.
No great issue, don’t think I’d really enjoy going everywhere at over 80mph on the wee bike 🤣
@@tigerness5555 i am willing to take it from you, to try.
Geezzz O Ian, big hassle, i would be in tears and stressed out. Be nice if their is a fix, so it can fit the Classic. Fingers crossed.
I thought you had ordered one?
I’ve just been communicating with Bobster and we’re going to try it on their Meteor to see if it’s ok or faulty.
No rush this should happen in the next month or so.
If it’s ok then you can have it, should even be able to fit it for as well.
@@tigerness5555 that be fantastic. Bobster, did message me, to say he fitted to Kates bike, and hit more than the indicated 75.
Also Calum had fitted the cam/TB to his Meteor, and left Kates in the dust. Just give you more control if you do an overtake.
Looking at getting the fuel X too.
I've just noticed that registration plate on the wall ... SLO 5UXS. You didn't used to have a red MK2.5 MX5 did you? :)
Hi Chris
LOL, I had that number on two MX5’s a razor blue MK 2.5 Arctic special edition and a silver MK 3.5 GT Sport Tech. It was SL0 5UXS until the police pulled me up so forced to revert back to SL05 UXS
I also had a white MK 4 Icon special edition, MX55 BUZ 🤣
All great cars which I had a lot of years trouble free miles of fun with.
That number may well be on a red MX5 now though.
Thought the process was to check the diameter of the crimped pins and match it to the two you crimp?
Yes you’re correct, you can use this method as well. I put a link to a video made by DID in the video description, the tools and method I followed was exactly the same as they demonstrated. I thought that surely the manufacturer would show the correct method.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Could you provide a link to the chain tool that you used. Thanks
Hi Nigel
This is the tool I purchased from M&P
www.mandp.co.uk/products/jt-pro-chain-tool-kit-674443
Hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful 👍
and one more thing surprises me, what are the O-rings additionally mounted in the link, are they rubber O-rings?
I was just going to say the same thing, thanks @gilburton 👍
Ok, so the factory chain with which I bought my classic 350 has these O-rings?
Yes the factory chain that I removed from my bike does have the rubber o rings.
The DID X link chain that I fitted has rubber X rings. This is an improvement to the O ring apparently.
@@tigerness5555 thank you
No chain link
I had a choice, spring clip link or compression link. Both types came with the chain.
I decided to use the compression type. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Hi there. Don't they make quick links for motorbike chains? Getting older, but I thought I replaced many chains on , yes bicycles, but also motorbikes. The Classic 350 has less than 16 HP out the wheel. I know you said it was your first time, but no way anybody would ever pay for that labor to replace the chain. And 99% of the time, you are out in the boonies with no tools when a chain fails on you.
Yes they do still have quick links and the DID chain that I fitted comes with both options. I chose to use the rivet type in this case but you’re correct, with such a low power bike the quick link option wouldn’t be a problem. As to the cost of the tool, yes it was expensive, but I have three bikes and I see the cost as an investment in the maintenance of all of them. A friend of mine’s chain snapped and it almost wrecked his engine and nearly cost him his life. His bike was fitted with a quick link and it was that part that failed.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍