Stop the stringing with Retraction! 3D Printing 101
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2024
- Retraction is a super useful setting you can use within your slicer to greatly improve the quality of your 3D Prints, but it's very misunderstood! In this 3D Printing 101 we'll go through the basics of what retraction settings are and how you can tweak them.
You'll be amazed by how much of a difference correct retraction can make!
This video is proudly supported by Simplify3D. Visit www.simplify3d.com/ to learn more.
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Travel Speed is the second most important setting for preventing Stringing. The Faster you get from A to B on a travel, the less time there is for filament to ooze out.
I just got my first 3D printer last week, and I'm taking things really slowly, just printing a small thing every now and again before I move on to big stuff.
But one of my favourite things so far is the amount of good info that's out there, like this video.
I pick up one or two good tips from every video and they always make total sense.. It's a really fun journey!
Thanks for the wonderfully clear description of each retraction element. A "must watch" tutorial for anyone seeking perfect prints!
Thank you !!! After I changed my nozzle from 0.4mm to 0.5mm I was plagued with stringing, spent countless hours troubleshooting with no luck.. I also use Flexion extruder. I just copied your Simplify 3D settings and my stringing is gone completely. You are the most useful TH-camr by far, very useful video! Keep doing the good work.
Hey Angus, great video as always. I really love your work and presentation style. I think you're doing a freaking fantastic job and all your videos have undoubtedly helped thousands (even millions) of people get into 3D printing successfully! Thank you again!
Angus,
I am really enjoying the 101 Series of videos. I have only been printing since late February and have picked up a lot by watching tons of TH-cam videos and learning from wonderful people like yourself. I always learn something new or how to do something I know how to do better.
Thanks for the instructional videos!
Norbert
I know this is an older video, but I just wanted to tell you that it has helped more than recent videos have about the same thing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
Most excellent episode of Printing 101! These settings helped improve my prints 110% on the gMax 1.5XT+. Thanks for sharing this very valuable bit of information Angus!
Just started my 3D printing journey and came across your channel. Really like the straight to the point and easy to understand explanations (unlike other channels that love to brag about their millions of upgrades and never get to the point lol). Anyways thanks, you've helped me a lot finding some of the problems I was having!
Thank you Angus! Your channel is the best on TH-cam. Great quality, perfect audio and amazing content. Very entertaining!
lets be honest Angus, Simplify 3D is probably not the software used by the most users, due to its high cost.
most of the users will be using the free solutions available, like slicer and cura, in which the settings that you showed will be a little more hidden and difficult to change.
so i think that a video for that free options would be appreciated by many of the viewers.
other than that good job, and great video.
Personally, I didn't think the cost was that high, in terms of software, it's pretty inexpensive when you look at what you could be paying for modeling software. Just under $150 seems like a kick ass deal for lifetime use, easy to understand adjustments and perfect prints. Unlike Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop where you have to pay yearly... I can't tell you how many times I've thought Simplify3D was worth every penny.
Simplify 3D is must have slicer if you mean 3D printing serious. When I bought it, my prints improve in many ways. I felt like I bought suddenly new, better and more expensive printer, not just piece of software :-D I wish i would buy it directly with the printer, because this way I lost a few months with slic3r and cura which I have not used anymore.
I disagree, a lot of people that want to improve their quality move to simplify3d. Or just want something that works faster.
If you dont like that he used simplify3d you are totally free to go make your own video showing how to do it in the software you prefer to use
Yeah, I also disagree with this. I think if you're really into this "hobby" that extra $150 is not a big deal, not for the outcome you gain with it. At the end of the day, your printer is about $500-$4,000 so well worth the investment.
you guys are missing the point of my comment, (I also use S3D) the point is when you buy your first printer you will not spend $150 in a software without first getting used to you printer, and how are you supposed to get your printer print settings at it best with the free software in the beginning, if you dont now the software?
I guess you will not be spending an extra $150 without knowing what your printer can do with the free software or will you?
I dont know about your wallets, but I'm, guessing most people buy a cheap chinese prusa printer because of their low price (probably, because most of them also can't afford spending 700 to 5000 dollars in one printer).
WOW! I followed this info, using a similar test print on my Longer LK5 and went from strings to almost NOTHING on the final! Awesome!! Thank you!!!!
That "TPU tip" was gold - thanks!
This is awesome, thank you! I really appreciate the detail for flexible material. I will be looking into those settings for Cura.
getting my first 3d Printer, your channel is very well put together an you tips and tricks will save me a lot of hair pulling....
Thanks, very helpful! Never turned retraction off for my flexible material prints. So i'm gonna try this out.
I love your channel dude, I´m a total newbie on 3d printer world and your videos help me a lot. Thank you very much!
Sooo happy to have da vinci mini... out of the box, no calibration - perfect print quality... And retraction is very noticeable in it :) it makes a "squeek", each time, while retracting to a new position.
Awesome to know what the theory behind the "Squeek" is.
These fine calibration details - that's worth paying for. Seriously - you take a machine out of the box, and it simply works. A professional had already calibrated it to perfection. It would takes hours to get things straight on my own. Perhaps days...
Thanks. Sound like I need to play with the settings with that neat little jig you made for testing.
THANK YOU. New 3d printer here so I going through all the fun of "I have no idea what is going on" Retraction helped a ton.
absolutly useful ... had that problem when I start 3Dprinting .. since .. found issue and test and test and test .. your video is perfectly explained .. Great job !!! Thanks for every new 3Dprinter :)
Just discovered your channel, watched 4 videos, subscribed immediately, very informative videos! Thanks from Morocco!
Great explanation. Thanks!
Awesome workspace btw.
Just getting into 3D printing and this is great information. Subscribed!
Hey Angus! thanks for the advice! it really helped me complete the fine tuning of my Anet A8 while using simplify3d. Now I am finally getting perfect prints!! If you are ever in the Puerto Rico, I owe you a few rounds of beers !!!
Iv'e just finished building my second 3D printer, and went through your video to help me fix my really bad stringing issue, printing like a boss now!
And for the Naysayers about Simplift 3D being too expensive, I have a mate that wishes he had S3D like I do, he absolutely loves the supports that S3D has compared to the latest Cura he uses.
I tried a number of the free Slicers, but S3D is the best for configurability I have found so far. Also you have to consider I built my printer, it's not standard, but hundreds have made similar machines to mine (Hypercube). It is definately not a cheap printer, but it's far from expensive.
Another great video Angus and actually better explination of how retraction works than a lot of others i've gone look at. Suggestion would have been to show what having too much retraction looked like on the print ;) that way you help people troubleshoot if they mess it up etc.
I always enjoy your vids. Keep up the great work!
This will correct the last problem I had with my printer, so after I made my adjustment I expect perfection!! Thanks!
Great video Angus. Settings are working great!!
Lots of great information. I am using Simplifi3d because of your channel and this helped to highlight what some of these settings are!
Incredibly well done! I learned from this, keep it up!
Woohoo! Will do :)
I see that you have the Wanhao D6. Will you be reviewing it?
3D Printing Nerd Joel? That really you?!?
Thanks for the great video on Retraction, I am having that issue my self with my TRONXY X5S printer. I will apply these settings and see how she prints.
Love the videos keep up the good work I've learned so much
Great Explanation of Retraction !!!! Thanks !!!!
When using coast at end for 0.2mm what can happen on many small retracts on detailed small prints is that it when the extruded plastic amount is almost (or getting close) the same as the coast distance, it will majorly under extrude. This is really easy to notice as you change layer heights from 0.2mm to 0.1mm as less filament is extruded and you notice this effect much quicker. It is a solution, but it needs to be calibrated and set for each layer height.
well done Angus, I dont believe I've seen a video on this topic. You did awesome
Just getting into 3D printing have had my Ender 3 v2 for 3 days now and it was not as easy as I though I have a lot to learn😂. It is fun learning about all of this though so thanks for your help😁
MM i set my retraction settings from 1mm to 6mm and it is printing Great, no strings at all and the quality of the print is alot better. I did purchase one of your t-shirts. Thank you for this Great video. keep them coming
Damian :)
That's great. Had no idea about the retraction setting.
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
another great 101 video, love these
Very concise, excellent introduction to retraction.
Quick video but good quality, love it. Subbed.
Very good explanation Angus, Thanks.
great job man, as always!!
Another fantastic video this is going to be very useful knowledge!
This is a great video. The only problem I was having with my prints was stringing. After following these guidelines, I only got a few spider web-thin strands. Thank you!
I got my Neptune 3 Pro last October and never knew about these settings or why my prints were turning increasingly 'hairy.' Thank you so much!
This was a great informative video. Thank you!
+1 on the Duplicator 6 review! just got mine 2 weeks ago:)
Great video very helpful thank you for making it.
Man i learn so much from this channel.
Thx this helped a lot with my flexible filament
Thank you for the information.
well I was watching your last stream I made my own fractal cube. It had retraction issues. This should help
The cube is a perfect test of it hey, and cooling... the Duplicator 6 doesn't like the cube.
Great video with a lot of excellent information
Another great video! Would be nice to know more about the rationale of retraction speed and distance and the effects.
Thank you very much! I am printing for years but this is so cool. Even my ninjaflex models are way better now. 10mm retraction and 80mm a sec, never came on this settings.
Great to see an S3D based tutorial, thanks Angus.
Lots of videos refer to 'getting your printer dialled in', but none of them go into a step by step process to say which settings will make what sort of change or a sequence of which settings to tinker with and by how much. A series of tutorials in a separate playlist? And print the same thing on the same printer to illustrate changes. I imagine that is what your maker coin was for initially.
Fusion 360 is a magic program. Getting to grips with it slowly. Can't believe how powerful it is overall; CAD is just the tip of the iceberg (and the only bit I will ever really use I think).
you saved my print's life ! thanksss
Thanks for another awesome video
exactly what i needed. ty
love it. nice and simple. major help. thanks
Great! It was what I was looking for. Very good.
FREAKING HELL IT WORKED THANK YOU SO MUCH ❤❤
Helps a ton, thanks!
Thanks a lot for the information.
awesome tips here, thanks!
once again, thanks!!! great video that should fix 25% of the problems we see on noob facebook group
Thanks Angus! As we say in NJ . . . you da man.
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well.
It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle.
You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament.
Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue
I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
Thanks for this vid to Simplify3D
Great vid, I was just playing with those exact settings. I am wondering if the different hotend designs make a big difference, or just a little. I use a j-head and PLA, but am about to try an all metal on a prusa I3 type printer. It would be interesting to see you present the top 5 best hotend/slicer setting combinations, as everyone wants good prints, but cannot buy tons of hardware combinations. I know a lot would be repreated material, but a summary would be super helpful. thx!
omg this has helped me so muc
Thank you very much. Helped me with my problems. ! :)
Thanks Angus. Legend.
as of this moment im facing this stringing issue too much filament were on trash until i find this video thank you for this stringing is lessen maybe will fine tune the settings until its gone thank you
great video.
what about laywood, algae and other wood like filament? do we need to treat them as both no retraction and no external movement?
Hi Muse. I am very new to 3D printing and your videos are excellent! Please keep it up. Do you have the STL file that you used for this so I can do some tests on my CR-10? Thanks for making these!
Thanks mate! Lots of vids out there on this but I for one haven't seen anyone of them explaining the "why?" of it. And that is fundamental to increase ones skill level. :-)
I couldn't agree more, Angus is one of the few people that explains it all properly.
It's great to know 'what' happens, but having the 'why' is just as important ... if not more so.
thank you so much angus. now i get it.
Turn on wipe nozzle (wipe distance 3 mm ) .This is miracle for problem with stringing. I change everything but this fix all.
Very nice, thanks. Can you suggest any documents that explain, in detail, all of the various 3D printer parameters (How, why and when to use them)?
Great video. Can you do it again more detailed with more examples? Especially about the extra restart distance and retraction speed
WOWThank you very much.This will help too much.AppreciatedBest Regards
better than a college class!
Thanks, still usefull after 6 years.
Thanks!! Nice! We would like to hear a bit about using PVA as support material, plz.
thank you for that movie, great job :)
Very helpful video
3:26 How do you adjust 'Extra Restart Distance' and what is it?
Thanks for all your precious time from a new Subscriber!!!
Awesome video.
Thanks for your video, frecuently I have stringing isuues but using Cura. Have you think make this video using Cura? Best regards.
the pun at 1:00... "while tweaking temperatures can help in some degrees..."
but will screw up layer adhesion.
Thanks for the video. Can you tell us what you learned about the affects of:
1) Temp
2) Layer height
3) Rapid travel distance
4) Feed stock Material
5) Print speed
on the amount of coasting distance and retraction required. The five variables all affect the amount of pressure in the hot end and would therefore affect the amount of oozing. How would you rank these variables in the order of importance?
Hi thank you for explaining the retraction.
Can you say me what for a robot arm is there behind you. You Print it Self ? It look like a kuka robot arm. Thank you
thank you for that viedeo you hellped me verry mutch .
Hi!
black (Tevo's) PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm - layer; 60deg - bed, 210deg - nozzle, 100% fan speed (two fans from sides), 5mm retraction (usual slow speed), glass base, no glue... I've got almost no wires... good brim (~10mm), but at the 40-50th layer the model was detached (and probably moved by the nozzle).
Aborted, re-leveled the bed (need to), bed - 70deg, set Hop on (and 1mm), glued the model's place (some glue stick that easy to remove - Erich Krause). Adhesion was great but I've got strings all over the road. 1st I've thought about the fan's speed (was down to 70%) but then I've raised it to 100% manually. Seems that the main reason is Hop. But (without BLTouch for sure) it's impossible to print without it.
It was the 80mm temperature tower with rect. and round windows + spikes (from 210 to 245 degrees - eight steps). All spikes are messy. In the 1st case (that failed by detaching) I've got very good spikes tough.
What can you advice, please?