I’m wanting to purchase a trolling motor myself and I’m in the investigating stage before I buy. Thank you for all the info, it is a little overwhelming going into this but I will just keep learning
Just wondering, I am about to purchase a 22 foot boat I see you have the 72 inch shaft on the Minnkota. They said at the boat place 60 inch would be plenty. Just wondering your thoughts
Boat length has nothing to do with trolling motor shaft length, bow height is what matters. You want to have your motor at least 12” or more below the waters surface, so choose shaft length accordingly. th-cam.com/video/1NQjzhaIJx0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CLilLc9QaUWuGRFT
On my 27 foot Center Console, I have a 84" Minn Kota with 36 VDC lead acid system maintained by the Minn Kota battery tender which charges the batteries when ever the twin Suzuki's 175's are running or I can plug the system in to a 115 VAC outlet- the hell with an anchor ever again... Total cost $ 5100.00- lot cheaper than a Suzuki 175 like Capt Dave states below.. Would I ever go lithium? yes for weight, no for cost of a new battery tender and battery.. Until the price drops to the level of a 36 volt lead acid system I don't see the up side.. Love your video and Love your channel.. If I ever get into your neck of the woods again on a fishing rodeo I'll use you for a charter.. God Bless, from a Native Northwest Florida fishing family..
… thanks, I just put my experience and info out there people can take it or leave it. I just think it’s funny someone completely disinterested in trolling motors or lithium battery for trolling motor chooses to watch this video and also leave a comment 🤦♂️🤷♂️, blows my mind sometimes 😂🤣.
The SLA or AGM batteries you have in your boat are good for 3-5 years, depending on how much you fish and whether or not you keep them near 100% charged, all the time. With LiFePO4 (or LFP) batteries you get twice the run-time because you can't draw a lead-acid battery down more than 50% SOC without risking permanent damage. The LFP batteries also weigh half as much and will give you about 4 times as many charge cycles; the batteries will probably last longer than the trolling motor. When you consider total cost over a 6-10 year period, LFP batteries are a much better value. Use your existing batteries until they need to be replaced (which is never very long, with lead-acid) and then make the switch. Anything else is penny wise and pound foolish...in more ways than one. :)
The charger may have been overloaded trying to charge the lithium battery. Just like the voltage stays so constant during discharge, it stays constant during charge. In other words, it has a very high charge acceptance, much higher than lead-acid. This puts a high load on the charger for much longer than charging a lead-acid battery, and some systems not designed for extended high load can be damaged. Now you have a new, it might be good to ask if it can be used with a LiFePO4 battery and if not you might as well sell that charger. LiFePO4 batteries are great, and much safer than the more common lithium chemistry (like used in phones, cars, laptops, power tools, ...). LiFePO4 has less energy stored, or to look at it from the other direction, to store the same energy a LiFePO4 takes about twice as much space and weighs about twice as much. In return it doesn't suffer the thermal runaway problems typically associated with lithium batteries where if they get too hot they start generating even more heat until they burst into flames. In your fire situation I'm sure glad you had the safer LiFePO4 on board! Thanks for the review, and stay Salty!
The charger was made by LithiumPros designed for lithium batteries. I’ve always had lithium batteries , I’ve never used Acid or AGM on this system. Not sure what gave you the idea I was switching from none lithium to lithium 🤷♂️.
… one single 36v , more batteries more problems. This one I have is going on almost two years with zero issues and I’ve put it through it’s paces, almost time for a 2 year review update video.
I lost a new Carolina Cat due to a battery charger fire that combusted over night when not in use and not connected to shore power, just connecting cranking battery to trolling battery. Mine was a red charger. Would like to know if yours was also. I got full insured value pay out but still left me $30K out of pocket if I replaced like for like due to price rises etc. Still bitter about it.
If it's a dual-bank charger with an AGM setting that puts out at least 14.4 volts, you can, but there is a major caveat! You do not want to leave that charger connected all the time, like you should when charging lead-acid/AGM batteries. When LFP (lithium iron phosphate) batteries are fully charged, they do not need a float charge, because they don't have the same risk of self-discharge that all lead-acid chemistry batteries have. Long story short...buy a 24v smart charger, like the ones Noco sells, and put the old Minn Kota charger up for sale.
do you ever struggle with not enough power ..I ordered an 80 lb thrust version with 2 12v 100ah lithium iron phosphate to run in series and 72 inch shaft? your opinion would be apricated? I have seen serval 25 foot plus boats running you 36V setup and it just seems like a little over kill for a R200. Think the 80lb will work for our boats? Plus do you think 2 group 27 battery's will fit in your cut out in the bow/ front seating area?
… be careful some lithium batteries you can’t run in series, you be better off buying a 24v 100ah lithium. There’s been a few time the 36v struggled to keep us in place when the wind and tide current was ripping. Always better to get more than you think you’ll need. I don’t think any batteries will fit in the bow cut out, besides they would take a real beating up there in the chop.
@@SaltyStrikes thank you for the reply. My issue is really running the power from the council to the motor ..if I could, I would like to get them up there without cutting on the boat...I just haven't seen an easy solution for this on a r200 you mentioned it could be done via the gunnel, but I don't really see how? my batteries can be run in series per manufacture. Plus, I like the idea of having another 12v battery on board in case there is an issue with my starting battery. Thanks again for your videos. I also have a ton of questions regarding you charter business. I am in corpus Christi Tx. I have been boating since my son was 2. Hes 27 now but it seems that the coast guard wants 360 logged days. For the 6 pack captain's license .... this seems imposable here I don't think there is 90 days in a 3-year period where you can confidently take offshore a 20-foot boat. Especially if you have another job to work around. I plan on writing a strongly worded letter.
@@myminuteofangle7313 … let me know how the battery placement turns out, email pic too saltystrikes@gmail.com. You can always get your USCG License without the offshore endorsement 🤷♂️
I am on the market for a 36 V stern mount trolling motor. It’s between the motor guide R5 105lb thrust. Or the Minn Kota riptide t112lb thrust. My battery is the Ionic 36v 50ah. I understand you had both of these motors with the exception of them being for Bow mount. If I understand correctly, you got a lot more battery life out of the Motor guide before having to replace it. Did you find the power to be about the same between the two?
Have you seen the comparison video I made for these too? th-cam.com/video/8rYYit9ABAk/w-d-xo.html Minn Kota is slightly strong but both hold the boat in current. There was a few occasions where both struggled a bit
Chris, I noticed that your unit does not set dead center on the bow. I'm leaning toward the same way as you have yours installed. When you mounted your Minn Kota did you use a additional mounting plate to add extra support for the unit. I know you have a quick disconnect, (I also) but is there a another pate that the quick disconnect is attached too. That plate may be 4 X 10,-12 inches ? And is screwed onto the bow? The Quick Disconnect is attached to it. If so, where can I buy one of special piece Plastic or Metal ?
Here’s the link to a video of the install has all the information on it and links for the products in the description area th-cam.com/video/1NQjzhaIJx0/w-d-xo.html
My batteries died, and I decided to replace the 2 AGMs with 1 Lithium. (24 v system). I ordered slow boat from China, but for 500 bucks I got 200 AmpHr 24V.! Should be here in another week or two. weight savings of 60% longer life of a Lithium plus 200 Amp Hr from the 100 amphr I was at... for the same price as the 2 AGM's
The 112 Terrova has a max draw of 46 amps @ 36 volts, so around 1,600 watts. In practice, the draw will generally be 20 amps or less, as it will only be above 40 for a second or two, when going from a dead stop to full power. If you're smart about how you use the trolling motor, and never go from zero to 10, the stress on your battery, along with battery life on a given day, is much better.
You should NEVER cheap out on a lithium battery charger. Get a “hitech” brand charger. They are super poplar in the RC world. Will run about $90 and will properly discharge them at the proper voltage for storage as well.
Gold, yep! Because when it breaks and leaves you without you'll be anchoring! And the repair bills can be more than on a outboard! I'll keep anchoring. Dont need a EZ button
@@bigdghost3319 was it bull sh$t when two friends of mine (I'm sure its not uncommon) had broke trolling motors that cost $8-900 bucks to get repaired? And many ''guides'' I know have spares in the garage, because all electrical things, beat to death in saltwater will break. I had 6 bay boats with older non-gps motors years ago, and each boats trolling motor broke a few times each, in the short time I ran each one. EZ buttons always cost. IT'S THE NATURE of it. People need to know, it's a huge cost, and repairs can be also. Personally, that's a lot of lost anchors to make up that cost. Just stating, I get along fine without a EZ button, that's all. I hate big repair bills, and do all I can to avoid them.
This was recorded almost two years ago, the market has definitely changed and I’m making an update video here shortly, I’ve actually just partnered up with Li Time and new video coming soon.
@@Andy-df5fj correction, video is a little over a year old and the battery is two years old. 12v 100ah batterys where twice what they are now this time last year.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m wanting to purchase a trolling motor myself and I’m in the investigating stage before I buy. Thank you for all the info, it is a little overwhelming going into this but I will just keep learning
It’s definitely a game changer, lithium is the way to go 👍
I have same battery on motorguide 3 days fishing 27 hours of use and still was going . Still read 39.2 at the end started at 39.8
…. Can never go back to lead acid or AGM again 👍👊💥
Great info.. I put 3 blue top Optima's in my boat and one started steaming 75 miles off shore.. Not a good day.. Going to look into your setup
Almost going on two years with this one with zero issues. Links for the battery are in the description area of this video 👍
Do you use your outboard to charge the battery? Or you only charge it when you get home through an AC outlet?
Just wondering, I am about to purchase a 22 foot boat I see you have the 72 inch shaft on the Minnkota. They said at the boat place 60 inch would be plenty. Just wondering your thoughts
Boat length has nothing to do with trolling motor shaft length, bow height is what matters. You want to have your motor at least 12” or more below the waters surface, so choose shaft length accordingly. th-cam.com/video/1NQjzhaIJx0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CLilLc9QaUWuGRFT
Thanks for sharing. Been thinking about moving to Lithium!
Tight Lines!
… glad to help 👍
Good to know.
Also know this. Boat indoor storage companies will not take your boat if it contains lithium ion batteries.
… never heard that, good to know though but I gave up on getting in a boat motel, waiting list in this area is insane.
@@SaltyStrikes Good thing is lithium batteries are small and light enough to easily remove.
@@thearmy88ify definitely 👍
On my 27 foot Center Console, I have a 84" Minn Kota with 36 VDC lead acid system maintained by the Minn Kota battery tender which charges the batteries when ever the twin Suzuki's 175's are running or I can plug the system in to a 115 VAC outlet- the hell with an anchor ever again... Total cost $ 5100.00- lot cheaper than a Suzuki 175 like Capt Dave states below.. Would I ever go lithium? yes for weight, no for cost of a new battery tender and battery.. Until the price drops to the level of a 36 volt lead acid system I don't see the up side.. Love your video and Love your channel.. If I ever get into your neck of the woods again on a fishing rodeo I'll use you for a charter.. God Bless, from a Native Northwest Florida fishing family..
… thanks, I just put my experience and info out there people can take it or leave it. I just think it’s funny someone completely disinterested in trolling motors or lithium battery for trolling motor chooses to watch this video and also leave a comment 🤦♂️🤷♂️, blows my mind sometimes 😂🤣.
Does your 84” motor come out of the water in moderate waves? I have a Century 2600 CC and can’t decide between the motor you have or a 96” Rhodan.
@@alabamaoffshorefishing … we have the 72” shaft, if the motor starts coming out of the water then the seas are too rough and it time to head back in.
@@alabamaoffshorefishing never had it come out of the water... even in 3 foot seas.. 84" Minkoda..
The SLA or AGM batteries you have in your boat are good for 3-5 years, depending on how much you fish and whether or not you keep them near 100% charged, all the time. With LiFePO4 (or LFP) batteries you get twice the run-time because you can't draw a lead-acid battery down more than 50% SOC without risking permanent damage. The LFP batteries also weigh half as much and will give you about 4 times as many charge cycles; the batteries will probably last longer than the trolling motor. When you consider total cost over a 6-10 year period, LFP batteries are a much better value. Use your existing batteries until they need to be replaced (which is never very long, with lead-acid) and then make the switch. Anything else is penny wise and pound foolish...in more ways than one. :)
The charger may have been overloaded trying to charge the lithium battery. Just like the voltage stays so constant during discharge, it stays constant during charge. In other words, it has a very high charge acceptance, much higher than lead-acid. This puts a high load on the charger for much longer than charging a lead-acid battery, and some systems not designed for extended high load can be damaged. Now you have a new, it might be good to ask if it can be used with a LiFePO4 battery and if not you might as well sell that charger.
LiFePO4 batteries are great, and much safer than the more common lithium chemistry (like used in phones, cars, laptops, power tools, ...). LiFePO4 has less energy stored, or to look at it from the other direction, to store the same energy a LiFePO4 takes about twice as much space and weighs about twice as much. In return it doesn't suffer the thermal runaway problems typically associated with lithium batteries where if they get too hot they start generating even more heat until they burst into flames. In your fire situation I'm sure glad you had the safer LiFePO4 on board!
Thanks for the review, and stay Salty!
The charger was made by LithiumPros designed for lithium batteries. I’ve always had lithium batteries , I’ve never used Acid or AGM on this system. Not sure what gave you the idea I was switching from none lithium to lithium 🤷♂️.
I need 36 v for a trolling motor. What option is the best ? 3x12v 100ah or 1x 36v 100ah?
… one single 36v , more batteries more problems. This one I have is going on almost two years with zero issues and I’ve put it through it’s paces, almost time for a 2 year review update video.
I lost a new Carolina Cat due to a battery charger fire that combusted over night when not in use and not connected to shore power, just connecting cranking battery to trolling battery.
Mine was a red charger. Would like to know if yours was also.
I got full insured value pay out but still left me $30K out of pocket if I replaced like for like due to price rises etc. Still bitter about it.
I do t have an on boards charger anymore.
Can I use the min kota on-board alternator charger with a 24v 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery Deep Cycle Lithium iron phosphate Rechargeable Battery?
Have a model number or link to what your talking about?
If it's a dual-bank charger with an AGM setting that puts out at least 14.4 volts, you can, but there is a major caveat! You do not want to leave that charger connected all the time, like you should when charging lead-acid/AGM batteries. When LFP (lithium iron phosphate) batteries are fully charged, they do not need a float charge, because they don't have the same risk of self-discharge that all lead-acid chemistry batteries have. Long story short...buy a 24v smart charger, like the ones Noco sells, and put the old Minn Kota charger up for sale.
do you ever struggle with not enough power ..I ordered an 80 lb thrust version with 2 12v 100ah lithium iron phosphate to run in series and 72 inch shaft? your opinion would be apricated? I have seen serval 25 foot plus boats running you 36V setup and it just seems like a little over kill for a R200. Think the 80lb will work for our boats? Plus do you think 2 group 27 battery's will fit in your cut out in the bow/ front seating area?
… be careful some lithium batteries you can’t run in series, you be better off buying a 24v 100ah lithium. There’s been a few time the 36v struggled to keep us in place when the wind and tide current was ripping. Always better to get more than you think you’ll need. I don’t think any batteries will fit in the bow cut out, besides they would take a real beating up there in the chop.
@@SaltyStrikes thank you for the reply. My issue is really running the power from the council to the motor ..if I could, I would like to get them up there without cutting on the boat...I just haven't seen an easy solution for this on a r200 you mentioned it could be done via the gunnel, but I don't really see how? my batteries can be run in series per manufacture. Plus, I like the idea of having another 12v battery on board in case there is an issue with my starting battery. Thanks again for your videos. I also have a ton of questions regarding you charter business. I am in corpus Christi Tx. I have been boating since my son was 2. Hes 27 now but it seems that the coast guard wants 360 logged days. For the 6 pack captain's license .... this seems imposable here I don't think there is 90 days in a 3-year period where you can confidently take offshore a 20-foot boat. Especially if you have another job to work around. I plan on writing a strongly worded letter.
@@myminuteofangle7313 … let me know how the battery placement turns out, email pic too saltystrikes@gmail.com. You can always get your USCG License without the offshore endorsement 🤷♂️
I am on the market for a 36 V stern mount trolling motor. It’s between the motor guide R5 105lb thrust. Or the Minn Kota riptide t112lb thrust. My battery is the Ionic 36v 50ah. I understand you had both of these motors with the exception of them being for Bow mount. If I understand correctly, you got a lot more battery life out of the Motor guide before having to replace it. Did you find the power to be about the same between the two?
Have you seen the comparison video I made for these too? th-cam.com/video/8rYYit9ABAk/w-d-xo.html
Minn Kota is slightly strong but both hold the boat in current. There was a few occasions where both struggled a bit
Chris, I noticed that your unit does not set dead center on the bow. I'm leaning toward the same way as you have yours installed. When you mounted your Minn Kota did you use a additional mounting plate to add extra support for the unit. I know you have a quick disconnect, (I also) but is there a another pate that the quick disconnect is attached too. That plate may be 4 X 10,-12 inches ? And is screwed onto the bow? The Quick Disconnect is attached to it. If so, where can I buy one of special piece Plastic or Metal ?
Here’s the link to a video of the install has all the information on it and links for the products in the description area th-cam.com/video/1NQjzhaIJx0/w-d-xo.html
How is this battery working for you 1.5 years later
Got a video about that coming out Tuesday 👍
My batteries died, and I decided to replace the 2 AGMs with 1 Lithium. (24 v system). I ordered slow boat from China, but for 500 bucks I got 200 AmpHr 24V.! Should be here in another week or two.
weight savings of 60% longer life of a Lithium plus 200 Amp Hr from the 100 amphr I was at... for the same price as the 2 AGM's
They are definitely coming down in price 👍
Great videos!
Thanks 👊💥
What's the name of the generic battery?
Links are in the description area
Good info!!! bro tight lines!!!
Number 1 a 112lb thrust motor eats amps especially on a little 40ah lithium batt. !
The 112 Terrova has a max draw of 46 amps @ 36 volts, so around 1,600 watts. In practice, the draw will generally be 20 amps or less, as it will only be above 40 for a second or two, when going from a dead stop to full power. If you're smart about how you use the trolling motor, and never go from zero to 10, the stress on your battery, along with battery life on a given day, is much better.
You should NEVER cheap out on a lithium battery charger. Get a “hitech” brand charger. They are super poplar in the RC world. Will run about $90 and will properly discharge them at the proper voltage for storage as well.
The charger that burnt up was from Lithium Pros, it’s probably one of the most expensive high end onboard chargers on the market.
Gold, yep! Because when it breaks and leaves you without you'll be anchoring! And the repair bills can be more than on a outboard! I'll keep anchoring. Dont need a EZ button
Bull Sh%%
@@bigdghost3319 was it bull sh$t when two friends of mine (I'm sure its not uncommon) had broke trolling motors that cost $8-900 bucks to get repaired? And many ''guides'' I know have spares in the garage, because all electrical things, beat to death in saltwater will break. I had 6 bay boats with older non-gps motors years ago, and each boats trolling motor broke a few times each, in the short time I ran each one. EZ buttons always cost. IT'S THE NATURE of it. People need to know, it's a huge cost, and repairs can be also. Personally, that's a lot of lost anchors to make up that cost. Just stating, I get along fine without a EZ button, that's all. I hate big repair bills, and do all I can to avoid them.
You got lucky if the battery caught on fire don’t think that fire extinguisher is gonna do any good
The battery has been great, actually 2 year update video coming soon.
I would keep that charger in your bedroom..No waY after a boat fire I would trust that brand again..
… it’s still in the bedroom 🤣
What brand was it?
You could buy three 12 volt 100AH batteries for less and have 20 more AH.
This was recorded almost two years ago, the market has definitely changed and I’m making an update video here shortly, I’ve actually just partnered up with Li Time and new video coming soon.
@@SaltyStrikes
My apologies. I didn't realize the video was that old.
@@Andy-df5fj correction, video is a little over a year old and the battery is two years old. 12v 100ah batterys where twice what they are now this time last year.