Thanks for watching, everyone! See the video description for detailed notes. BTW, I don't know why my closing animation has no audio. It just does that sometimes and I didn't feel like re-rendering the video this time.
How do you dispose of the hazardous chemicals? do you neutralize them or do you take them to a place that accepts hazardous chemicals?Very interesting and informative videoThank you
I really appreciate the style of your videos - they're instructional by being demonstrative, no looping funky music track (SO APPRECIATED!) and voiceover only when necessary. Very enjoyable.
but I still dont know anything.. can anybody finally link me a tutorial or somethign? How does this witchcraft work? How does the etching differenciate between black and white? This is regular printer ink? HOW DOES IT WORK?
You used to come into my job all the time! Thia is so crazy that your this successful! I can’t wait to spend all afternoon watching your videos man!!!!
Those look super cool. I love the idea of stamping the date/serial number on it. It makes me really want to start doing that for my projects. Can't wait to see how you do it with the CNC! Keep up the good work!
Interesting to see the same results being made in a different way. We cut and etch with two different laser machines, then infill with a flatbed uv printer. Keep up the good work.
In doing circuit boards, I've found glossy magazine paper to work about the best and cheap too. It doesn't slide off, but after soaking, just a rub of the thumb usually leaves just the toner with a thin layer of paper attached to the toner.
Is that a printable etch resist you printed out? Or what was it? Used to run an etching company back in the 80s, we made plates in high quantity. Brass, stainless or alum. We had a nice camera to make film with to apply over KPR (Kodak photo resist) for ultimate fine detail. coat the metal with KPR, lay film on top in a vacuum glass holder, expose, develop, then ready to etch. Its a lost art.
Your videos have got to be the sharpest and best lit of any DIY channel on YT. They are crystal clear! Any info on what camera and lighting rig you use?
I know you mentioned you were going to be using you're CNC for future name plates. But just a tip if you take old vinyl release liner and cut it to size then run regular toner on it. It works better then any other type of papers.
I do the same process with copper, brass and bronze. It's nice to know you can use hydrogen peroxide and muriatic on the aluminum. Ferric Chloride is way too strong on aluminum and usually pulls off the resist. Excellent video - thanks!! (BTW - that lacquer stick is amazing. I've never seen those!!)
@@rimmersbryggeri No that is too mild. Some use salt water and electricity with the part to be etched on the negative pole. Citric acid, lye or vinegar may also work on aluminium. When in doubt try it out with some aluminium foil.
What about disposal of the chemicals? Is one of them safer than the other to simply dump down the drain (after neutralizing) or do they have to be neutralized as best you can and disposed of at a chemical waste station?
I too am strongly interested in disposal. Basically the only thing holding me back from doing my own etching is "how much of a pain will it be to safely dispose of this?"
While I have a laminator, I also have a heat press which provides good heat and pressure. I wonder if that would work as well? You could certainly do a lot of them quickly at one time that way.
Great tutorial! Thanks. Just btw, the Pulsar transfer paper doesn't work in the amazon brand laminator. The metal plates get pretty hot, but the transfer does not occur at all. So I guess I'll try a different paper. Okay, I tried a different paper, but everything I try leaves the toner partially stuck to the backing paper. I'm wondering if there a certain type of laser cartridge required. The image only ever partially transfers, even when using a range of heat and time settings with the iron. Disappointing.
Mark Trombley, that was exactly my thought. But there is something super cool knowing it was hand made. Please do share your new process too if you find the time. It would be nice to compare.
How deep is the 5 minute etch? I need it deep for info recovery after long term outdoor abuse, even after the clear and laquerstick has weathered away and the tag beat up by wind and sticks.
Have you tried using white vinegar for cleaning 2 part epoxy from your hands. 10% works best, but 5% will work too. Thanks for the videos, Billy in Canada
Would you be able to use a 3d print as a resist in order to save material? Or maybe wood. Not sure if it will eat through it. Trying to etch .25 inch stainless steel using the salt water electro etching method. Thanks.
nice video. Quick question. After you apply the lacker with the stick it doesn´t need to be coated with a varnish? or it does dry and you can leave as it is. Thank you
Hallo thanlk you so much for your video. I have to do a etching on a really big aluminiumplade 200x100 cm, i cant find anyplastic container thats big enouf to handle that. do any one know if it would be possible to make one out of thick cover plastic in a wooden box? all the best Johan
That's cool! I never thought to use Muriatic that way. I do something similar but with a laser etcher. The transfer sheets and muriatic is WAY cheaper however.
In other videos I have seen, they use a ferric chloride solution. Is there a difference between ferric chloride and this hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid solution?
Where do you buy Clecos from? Years ago Harbor Freight sold the tool but had no idea what it was for, nor did they sell the Clecos. I'd like to have a set of different sizes. Jim
I forget where I got my clecos, but I'm pretty sure my pliers are the same ones from Harbor Freight. Here's a kit of various sizes you can get online: amzn.to/2PVQUEL
Many years ago my father had the opportunity to start what at the time would have been one of only a few printed circuit board companies in the US (He worked for a small newspaper at the time), but he passed citing having a family to support and didn't want to take the risk of failure. The newspaper eventually folded and he went onto other things that technology eventually swallowed up. For many years he's regretted not doing so. I was at the time still in diapers. Now dad is 90 and I'm in my 60s..
I love your channel. great tip i think i am going to try to make some of my own. Keep up the great content i know i am hooked. and bourbon doesn't count in my book.
Well, they turned out not to be the final run, since I couldn't get very good results from my CNC at first. (I learned a lot from the recent vending machine badge, though, so I might give it another shot.) Message me over on FB and I can see if I've got enough left from my latest batch to send your way if you still want one from a non-so-special run. :)
Thanks for the quick reply! I've been testing it out since watching your video the other day. I tried it on copper, and it is absolutely beautiful! I'm struggling to get the toner to stick to aluminum, and to get a good etch on it, but I'm sure I'll get there. Thank you so much! It's exactly what I've been looking for.
Thank you so much for this video. It was very clear and helpful. I have a question: If I wanted to etch a whole A4 size sheet of text on a copper plate, how would I do it, and what equipment would I need?
Lucky you :) whenever i try the toner transfer method on aluminum and use muriatic acid, it basically rips the toner right off the aluminum within 20 seconds, i just a heat press 250 for 3 mins and when i dunk it in the container with the acid boom u can watch it just come off and start floating in the acid, any hints?
Make sure the substrate is very, very clean. It may also be the brand of toner you're using. Some work better than others. You could also try diluting the acid a bit more or trying to etch a smaller piece. I've had it happen when trying to etch a piece too large and the acid gets too active and starts to get hot.
@@WesleyTreat yes unfortunatly the piece im etching is 9" by 9" but i have a friend thats done bigger using only stick on vinyl as a mask, when i do it that way it also lifts the vinyl
What gauge aluminum did you use for the plates? I'm working on Metal Business cards but having trouble with etching them via acid or sale water methods, this bath method might be better, or I could move to aluminum instead of steel.
I had to try this, and am mid project when I ran into an issue. I don't have a decent inkjet printer at home, so I had my design printed on premium presentation paper. I'm using black anodized aluminum btw. Both the aluminum and the toner negative where run through the laminator several times and put in a water bath, but now they are REALLY stuck together. I'm going to let it sit in the water for awhile to try and dissolve the paper, but I'm think I may need to take a razor blade to it. Do you think that with compromise the toner adhered to the aluminum?
When I use the HP paper, I usually have to rub off a thin layer of it with my thumb. It doesn't float off like the toner-transfer paper does. If the paper is REALLY stuck on there, it sounds like the laminator may have been too hot or you may have just run it through too many times. In that case, I'd remove it all with acetone and try again, running it through fewer times.
Hi Wesley. I'm wanting to etch right through aluminium to create a stencil with which to burn my name/insignia into wood using a gas flame torch. The problem I can foresee is that the middle parts of letters enclosed completely by etching will be lost and it won't look right. Do you know if there's a way around this other than to use a graphics program to join up all the middle parts manually as with traiditional stencils?
Thanks for watching, everyone! See the video description for detailed notes.
BTW, I don't know why my closing animation has no audio. It just does that sometimes and I didn't feel like re-rendering the video this time.
How do you dispose of the hazardous chemicals? do you neutralize them or do you take them to a place that accepts hazardous chemicals?Very interesting and informative videoThank you
Can i use Vinyl instead of Toner transfer paper.
Or Can I use regular transfer paper designed for Tshirt printing?
Saludos y bendiciones!! ✌️👍🙏🙏🙏
I really appreciate the style of your videos - they're instructional by being demonstrative, no looping funky music track (SO APPRECIATED!) and voiceover only when necessary. Very enjoyable.
but I still dont know anything.. can anybody finally link me a tutorial or somethign? How does this witchcraft work? How does the etching differenciate between black and white? This is regular printer ink? HOW DOES IT WORK?
You used to come into my job all the time! Thia is so crazy that your this successful! I can’t wait to spend all afternoon watching your videos man!!!!
Really? Where did you work?
Wesley Treat Einstein bagle bros!
@@briandimmitt4314 Ah, yes! I started cutting back on eating out. Then, the whole pandemic thing hit. I'll be back someday!
Those look super cool. I love the idea of stamping the date/serial number on it. It makes me really want to start doing that for my projects. Can't wait to see how you do it with the CNC! Keep up the good work!
Greetings how do I get in touch with you?
Interesting to see the same results being made in a different way. We cut and etch with two different laser machines, then infill with a flatbed uv printer. Keep up the good work.
In doing circuit boards, I've found glossy magazine paper to work about the best and cheap too. It doesn't slide off, but after soaking, just a rub of the thumb usually leaves just the toner with a thin layer of paper attached to the toner.
This is incredibly informative. Thank you for sharing.
I can't stop watching your video.
Great video and walk through of the process!
Faster then CNC ! Bravo....Man
Excellent video format and production !
Is that a printable etch resist you printed out? Or what was it? Used to run an etching company back in the 80s, we made plates in high quantity. Brass, stainless or alum. We had a nice camera to make film with to apply over KPR (Kodak photo resist) for ultimate fine detail. coat the metal with KPR, lay film on top in a vacuum glass holder, expose, develop, then ready to etch. Its a lost art.
Awesome! I will be binge watching your channel tonight lol
been binge watching these since i found your channel, i really like the look of these..
These look really good. I love the retro vibe.
Hola como estas excelente video gracias por compartir tus conocimientos,que ácido se usa para este trabajo.Gracias(Leonardo de Argentina 🇦🇷👍
Your videos have got to be the sharpest and best lit of any DIY channel on YT. They are crystal clear! Any info on what camera and lighting rig you use?
Thanks! Right now, I use an EOS M3 with a kit lens and these lights: amzn.to/3n8zO6j
Sorry, I just realized the M3 was my older camera. I'm using an M6 now.
Love all of your videos. You are very talented sir. Keep em coming
I know you mentioned you were going to be using you're CNC for future name plates. But just a tip if you take old vinyl release liner and cut it to size then run regular toner on it. It works better then any other type of papers.
Wesley, these are wonderful videos.... I was just last week looking for a similar solution
I do the same process with copper, brass and bronze. It's nice to know you can use hydrogen peroxide and muriatic on the aluminum. Ferric Chloride is way too strong on aluminum and usually pulls off the resist. Excellent video - thanks!! (BTW - that lacquer stick is amazing. I've never seen those!!)
For aluminium just muriatic acid is enough actually. The peroxide is only needed for metals the acid isn't strong enough for like copper.
@@rubenproost2552 what about washing soda?
@@rimmersbryggeri No that is too mild. Some use salt water and electricity with the part to be etched on the negative pole. Citric acid, lye or vinegar may also work on aluminium. When in doubt try it out with some aluminium foil.
What about disposal of the chemicals? Is one of them safer than the other to simply dump down the drain (after neutralizing) or do they have to be neutralized as best you can and disposed of at a chemical waste station?
I too am strongly interested in disposal. Basically the only thing holding me back from doing my own etching is "how much of a pain will it be to safely dispose of this?"
Word of the day... "Pharmacological" thanks for the video
Beautiful production values!
Great work! Content, editing, everything! Cheers
Almost exactly 3 years later -- Aug 3 2020 -- 99.9K subs.... Almost to 100K!!!!!!!! Go go go!!
While I have a laminator, I also have a heat press which provides good heat and pressure. I wonder if that would work as well? You could certainly do a lot of them quickly at one time that way.
Hello and thanks . Is the ink in the photo copper just standard ink
Hello, what kind of paper and printing did you use that the color returned to the metal?
Great tutorial! Thanks. Just btw, the Pulsar transfer paper doesn't work in the amazon brand laminator. The metal plates get pretty hot, but the transfer does not occur at all. So I guess I'll try a different paper.
Okay, I tried a different paper, but everything I try leaves the toner partially stuck to the backing paper. I'm wondering if there a certain type of laser cartridge required. The image only ever partially transfers, even when using a range of heat and time settings with the iron. Disappointing.
Very cool. What software did you use to design the nameplate?
Artwork looks nice! Will try this. Thanks!
So, if you wanted the letters to be the raised portion and the background painted what would you do?
Wow, that is a labor intensive process.
Nah, not really. I can do a batch of these in about 30-45 minutes. And most of it is sitting down.
Mark Trombley, that was exactly my thought. But there is something super cool knowing it was hand made.
Please do share your new process too if you find the time. It would be nice to compare.
Very cool! Can you etch all the way through and still get a nice clean line?
great tutorial.
what type of laminating machine do you use ??
Impressive work. BIG thanks for sharing.
I like that the way you process of aluminum plate let me know others if ever 20x30 inches of plate it could engraving accurate?
How deep is the 5 minute etch? I need it deep for info recovery after long term outdoor abuse, even after the clear and laquerstick has weathered away and the tag beat up by wind and sticks.
Brilliant!
Like a BOSS. Great work man.
3:00
Perfect, you win, 24 hit super combo finish.
amazing technique
Great video - nice work.
Wonderful sir
sir can i know what kind of materials and equipment , I want to learn I want to crate that in my country
What kind of printer is that you used in the beginning and what kind of paper?
Have you tried using white vinegar for cleaning 2 part epoxy from your hands. 10% works best, but 5% will work too. Thanks for the videos, Billy in Canada
Would you be able to use a 3d print as a resist in order to save material? Or maybe wood. Not sure if it will eat through it. Trying to etch .25 inch stainless steel using the salt water electro etching method. Thanks.
Bourbon is definitely medicinal.
very nice !
nice video. Quick question. After you apply the lacker with the stick it doesn´t need to be coated with a varnish? or it does dry and you can leave as it is. Thank you
Hallo thanlk you so much for your video. I have to do a etching on a really big aluminiumplade 200x100 cm, i cant find anyplastic container thats big enouf to handle that. do any one know if it would be possible to make one out of thick cover plastic in a wooden box? all the best Johan
I need those exact size and font of the metal stamps you were smacking with the hammer. Haven't been able to find them. Thanks. Great video!
There's a link in the video description. You can also get them at Harbor Freight.
Great video . Thanks subbed
That's cool! I never thought to use Muriatic that way. I do something similar but with a laser etcher. The transfer sheets and muriatic is WAY cheaper however.
REALLY slick!!!
Awesome video, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Can you use a regular laminater to laminate those?
In other videos I have seen, they use a ferric chloride solution. Is there a difference between ferric chloride and this hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid solution?
I love this guy
Looks absolutely amazing. Is this some special kind of toner? sorry in case i missed it, cheers!
Wesley. Would a vinyl sticker have the same protection effect?
I have a round object so not sure how I would heat transfer to the round object
1:03 you need to watch more This Old Tony videos. His stuff cutting technique is superb:D
Where do you buy Clecos from? Years ago Harbor Freight sold the tool but had no idea what it was for, nor did they sell the Clecos. I'd like to have a set of different sizes. Jim
I forget where I got my clecos, but I'm pretty sure my pliers are the same ones from Harbor Freight. Here's a kit of various sizes you can get online: amzn.to/2PVQUEL
Always wanted to know how to make these. Wow
my dear very wonderfull work
Many years ago my father had the opportunity to start what at the time would have been one of only a few printed circuit board companies in the US (He worked for a small newspaper at the time), but he passed citing having a family to support and didn't want to take the risk of failure. The newspaper eventually folded and he went onto other things that technology eventually swallowed up.
For many years he's regretted not doing so. I was at the time still in diapers. Now dad is 90 and I'm in my 60s..
You're like the cool dad I never had
Your mom's name isn't Cheryl, is it?
what was the tool and supplies that you used at the final step to rivet the finished/etched label to the metal box and where can i get it?
Wow, that really works a treat.
Your channel is really cool.
I love your channel. great tip i think i am going to try to make some of my own. Keep up the great content i know i am hooked. and bourbon doesn't count in my book.
I don't know where ya'll are from but where I'm from Bourbon is considered a medical necessity!
What kinda drill bit was that? Reminds me almost of a vicks bit but I don't think it's meant for that purpose
You are amazing. Thank you!
Nice video. Do you use 3% or 6% Hydrogen Peroxide solution?
Great video! Always wondered how to do this. I'm going to use this technique for an Aliens xenomorph defence locker I'm making.
Do you have any of these final run nameplates left? I would seriously buy one from you for my shop!
Well, they turned out not to be the final run, since I couldn't get very good results from my CNC at first. (I learned a lot from the recent vending machine badge, though, so I might give it another shot.) Message me over on FB and I can see if I've got enough left from my latest batch to send your way if you still want one from a non-so-special run. :)
Cool stuff.
Do you make 'on-offs'... I'm building a kit car and I need a retro-looking vehicle engine number plate. I'm in the UK
You are funny, interesting and keep me from going to bed when I should!! :-)
Is it possible to do the same on brass?
When will you come out with a video on making enclosures for electronic projects from molds ? That should be cool!
Would this Tober transfer method work on other metals? Thanks for the video!
Yes, brass is a popular choice.
Thanks for the quick reply! I've been testing it out since watching your video the other day. I tried it on copper, and it is absolutely beautiful! I'm struggling to get the toner to stick to aluminum, and to get a good etch on it, but I'm sure I'll get there. Thank you so much! It's exactly what I've been looking for.
Where do you get your aluminum stock?
Fantastic video ! will it work on thin brass ? (sorry I dont know about the correct gauge thickness but I would say about 0.020 '') Thanks !
I'm pretty sure it works on brass. I've read it's a good way to clean it, too.
Which software u used to make the design?
Thank you. Peace and love.
Thanks for sharing Wes!
God bless you Son!
looks great!!
Does it dig deeper the longer it stays in?
Cool video
Thank you so much for this video. It was very clear and helpful. I have a question: If I wanted to etch a whole A4 size sheet of text on a copper plate, how would I do it, and what equipment would I need?
very nice job.
Loved it.
Lucky you :) whenever i try the toner transfer method on aluminum and use muriatic acid, it basically rips the toner right off the aluminum within 20 seconds, i just a heat press 250 for 3 mins and when i dunk it in the container with the acid boom u can watch it just come off and start floating in the acid, any hints?
Make sure the substrate is very, very clean. It may also be the brand of toner you're using. Some work better than others. You could also try diluting the acid a bit more or trying to etch a smaller piece. I've had it happen when trying to etch a piece too large and the acid gets too active and starts to get hot.
@@WesleyTreat yes unfortunatly the piece im etching is 9" by 9" but i have a friend thats done bigger using only stick on vinyl as a mask, when i do it that way it also lifts the vinyl
What gauge aluminum did you use for the plates? I'm working on Metal Business cards but having trouble with etching them via acid or sale water methods, this bath method might be better, or I could move to aluminum instead of steel.
I wish someone on Etsy or something like that did these. I’d probably order a bunch
I had to try this, and am mid project when I ran into an issue. I don't have a decent inkjet printer at home, so I had my design printed on premium presentation paper. I'm using black anodized aluminum btw. Both the aluminum and the toner negative where run through the laminator several times and put in a water bath, but now they are REALLY stuck together. I'm going to let it sit in the water for awhile to try and dissolve the paper, but I'm think I may need to take a razor blade to it. Do you think that with compromise the toner adhered to the aluminum?
You mentioned both inkjet and toner. Which did you use?
I meant to say toner is what I used.
When I use the HP paper, I usually have to rub off a thin layer of it with my thumb. It doesn't float off like the toner-transfer paper does. If the paper is REALLY stuck on there, it sounds like the laminator may have been too hot or you may have just run it through too many times. In that case, I'd remove it all with acetone and try again, running it through fewer times.
Hi Wesley. I'm wanting to etch right through aluminium to create a stencil with which to burn my name/insignia into wood using a gas flame torch. The problem I can foresee is that the middle parts of letters enclosed completely by etching will be lost and it won't look right. Do you know if there's a way around this other than to use a graphics program to join up all the middle parts manually as with traiditional stencils?
Very cool!
❤good wark