I changed the shocks on my daughter's 06 ML350 (non air suspension) . no need to remove the the floor. all you need is to loosen the bolts on the side panels lift and flex them out. then rip through the rubber foam to reveal the 13mm bolts on the top of the shock mounts. i removed those first, then the 24 mm mounting bolts, then I lifted the car and pulled the shocks out ( need to compress a bit) then put the body on jack stands and lift the a arm to lign up the mounting holes. tool me under an hour and DONE.
its coming waiting for some parts and need to clean her up. Also need to figure out a good street and track wheel combo. the current wheels are going to kill me lol
The power outlet is a special feature... on my 2014 the outlet is actually under the rear passengers legs. From the drivers seat, I can turn around and plug things right into it...as long as they're two pronged ;)
@@top6ear you are SO WELCOME!!! Imagjne the humiliation you must feel when someone as dumb and useless as me, no seriuodly useless as me, reminds you with 10 grade sentances and 7th grade spelling to do something a child would know to do. It's so valuable... isn't the internet amazing!!??? How did anyone figure out the most simplest bullshit without a free ocean of asssholes on hand to remind them of the simplist fix and to record the moment as though tthey fixed world fucking hunger. I don't know either, but eat well. And thakn you for recognizing me for my hunger solving contributions!!
Thanks, good video, turns out 2015 GLK 350 is similar, the shock is NOT inside a coil. Also turns out the oil drip I had was from a sloppy (MB dealer) oil change. Bubba spilled oil on the under tray(s) and driving/wind pushed it back under the car (trays) eventually to the RR shock area where it exited onto the garage floor. I ASSUMED a leaky shock which it was not. The clue I missed was the oil was VERY dark/black & I don't think a shock leak would have been that dark. Froggy. :)
Thank you for the video. I have a 2011 W164 and I think I’ll need to do the same thing. My suspension doesn’t feel like too much roll though, it’s just harsh over bumps. Trying to decide between HD or Sport Bilsteins.
If you want the stock ride back go with the OEM stuff but if you want it a little more stiff for handling then these are a good option. So far so good for me.
so I had my family car, a 2012 ML350 4Matic for transmission fluid change at 70K+ miles and the mechanic noticed that one of the rear coil spring was broken. I just bought the part, a Bilstein coil spring from FCP Euro. I decided to browse for the shocks/struts as well. Now I am worried if the front struts and rear shocks may be nearing their shelf life. I live in Minneapolis and the weather is really harsh each year with the snow and the salted roads. Assuming the worst case scenario of having to get the front and the back replaced I would like to know the below from experts please. 1. Can the front struts’ brand be different than the back? I plan to go with Sachs (Kit-166320) in the front and Bilstein B4 (BIL-24271011 x 2) on the back. 2. What exactly is Bilstein B6 (BIL-24273671) and how is it compared to the B4? Is B6 really worth more dollars? 3. Now that I have already bought the Bilstein rear coil springs, should I buy only Bilstein rear shocks or can I opt for Sachs rear if I change my mind? 4. Is there a vendor/website other than FCP whom you would like to recommend considering the expenses now that I may run into on parts and labor? 5. Lastly, how many hours do you guys think would take getting all 4, the front and back struts/shocks replaced? I plan to start calling the mechanics around and negotiate on the labor. What is a nominal per hour rate? Please note that I hardly put a maximum of 6000 miles per year on the vehicle since this is not for every day use. At the same time I want to make it safe for wife and kids considering the weather here. Please suggest your thoughts.
Hi World Peace, Hope the answers below help you. 1. Can the front struts’ brand be different than the back? I plan to go with Sachs (Kit-166320) in the front and Bilstein B4 (BIL-24271011 x 2) on the back. The Front and Rear can be different, but I don’t like to do it as most company’s products are meant to work together and there might be a difference in spring rates or valving of the shocks. Now seeing these are not performance vehicles it might not be noticeable. I don’t know much about Sachs and would say go with Bilstein all around if possible. 2. What exactly is Bilstein B6 (BIL-24273671) and how is it compared to the B4? Is B6 really worth more dollars? The B6 shocks are more of a performance shock and are stiffer than stock and helps with body roll when turning and changing lanes but I doubt many people would like the stiffer ride it does not bother me. If you want a more comfortable ride, I would stick with the B4 shocks. 3. Now that I have already bought the Bilstein rear coil springs, should I buy only Bilstein rear shocks or can I opt for Sachs rear if I change my mind? I would suggest sticking to the same brand front and back if you can. I like Bilstein and don’t know much about Sachs but if it’s a budget shock I rather do Bilstein as I don’t want to have to go and change them again if the other brand does not last as long. 4. Is there a vendor/website other than FCP whom you would like to recommend considering the expenses now that I may run into on parts and labor? I normally check a bunch of sites and cross check the part numbers. Some of the other sites I would check are ecs tuning, 4x4 parts, Europa parts and even jegs. 5. Lastly, how many hours do you guys think would take getting all 4, the front and back struts/shocks replaced? I plan to start calling the mechanics around and negotiate on the labor. What is a nominal per hour rate? I am not a professional and with filming I would say a better part of two days. I’m sure a professional shop can do it a lot faster so you will need to shop around but make sure they deal with European cars as some places say they can do it and might make a mess of it so check reviews and ask questions.
hello, how do these shock absorbers perform, is there any loss of comfort? I want to buy, but I'm wondering whether to choose standard or the B6 model ... hello from Poland
After driving for a couple hundred miles they are stiffer than the standard and you can tell the difference right away on small bumps but i feel the better control at highway speeds was worth the added stiffness in the ride. Also i think a better tire would help as i have some cheap tires on it right now i'm going to switch out to some continentals which i feel will help improve the ride comfort.
YOOOOoooOOOOoooo how are these B6's holding up? I've had a kit from europe on order for 8 weeks, and possibly waiting another 6 or so, and Im wondering if its worth it? Ive got the matching eibach lowering springs to go with it. I'm just wondering if I need to go with B4's and lowering springs if the ride is super harsh
IM not sure have not done it on a GLK but it might be similar. you might want to poke around first before you decide to do it and see if everything is in the same place.
I changed the shocks on my daughter's 06 ML350 (non air suspension) . no need to remove the the floor. all you need is to loosen the bolts on the side panels lift and flex them out. then rip through the rubber foam to reveal the 13mm bolts on the top of the shock mounts.
i removed those first, then the 24 mm mounting bolts, then I lifted the car and pulled the shocks out ( need to compress a bit) then put the body on jack stands and lift the a arm to lign up the mounting holes. tool me under an hour and DONE.
Should do a vid of the ride after the install.
Cant wait for the 350z content bro 🙌🏾🙌🏾💪🏾💪🏾
its coming waiting for some parts and need to clean her up. Also need to figure out a good street and track wheel combo. the current wheels are going to kill me lol
The power outlet is a special feature... on my 2014 the outlet is actually under the rear passengers legs. From the drivers seat, I can turn around and plug things right into it...as long as they're two pronged ;)
Thanks for the info
Omg thank you for reminding me to reconnect the power outlet
@@top6ear you are SO WELCOME!!! Imagjne the humiliation you must feel when someone as dumb and useless as me, no seriuodly useless as me, reminds you with 10 grade sentances and 7th grade spelling to do something a child would know to do. It's so valuable... isn't the internet amazing!!??? How did anyone figure out the most simplest bullshit without a free ocean of asssholes on hand to remind them of the simplist fix and to record the moment as though tthey fixed world fucking hunger. I don't know either, but eat well. And thakn you for recognizing me for my hunger solving contributions!!
I love you. I miss you.
Thanks, good video, turns out 2015 GLK 350 is similar, the shock is NOT inside a coil. Also turns out the oil drip I had was from a sloppy (MB dealer) oil change. Bubba spilled oil on the under tray(s) and driving/wind pushed it back under the car (trays) eventually to the RR shock area where it exited onto the garage floor. I ASSUMED a leaky shock which it was not. The clue I missed was the oil was VERY dark/black & I don't think a shock leak would have been that dark. Froggy. :)
Thank you for the video. I have a 2011 W164 and I think I’ll need to do the same thing. My suspension doesn’t feel like too much roll though, it’s just harsh over bumps. Trying to decide between HD or Sport Bilsteins.
If you want the stock ride back go with the OEM stuff but if you want it a little more stiff for handling then these are a good option. So far so good for me.
God Bless you for this video - thank you.
I'm glad i could help.
great vid
Nice video. You make only one mistake. Wheels bolts you need 17mm socket.
Would this be similar to glk350 2015 (not air shocks)?
Sorry not sure we have only done this to our ML350.
Good video bro i have to do that next weekend on my 2008 ml350 about how long did it take if you don't mind me asking boss
We did this over a weekend. We took our time did the rear first then the front.
so I had my family car, a 2012 ML350 4Matic for transmission fluid change at 70K+ miles and the mechanic noticed that one of the rear coil spring was broken. I just bought the part, a Bilstein coil spring from FCP Euro. I decided to browse for the shocks/struts as well. Now I am worried if the front struts and rear shocks may be nearing their shelf life. I live in Minneapolis and the weather is really harsh each year with the snow and the salted roads. Assuming the worst case scenario of having to get the front and the back replaced I would like to know the below from experts please.
1. Can the front struts’ brand be different than the back? I plan to go with Sachs (Kit-166320) in the front and Bilstein B4 (BIL-24271011 x 2) on the back.
2. What exactly is Bilstein B6 (BIL-24273671) and how is it compared to the B4? Is B6 really worth more dollars?
3. Now that I have already bought the Bilstein rear coil springs, should I buy only Bilstein rear shocks or can I opt for Sachs rear if I change my mind?
4. Is there a vendor/website other than FCP whom you would like to recommend considering the expenses now that I may run into on parts and labor?
5. Lastly, how many hours do you guys think would take getting all 4, the front and back struts/shocks replaced? I plan to start calling the mechanics around and negotiate on the labor. What is a nominal per hour rate?
Please note that I hardly put a maximum of 6000 miles per year on the vehicle since this is not for every day use. At the same time I want to make it safe for wife and kids considering the weather here. Please suggest your thoughts.
Hi World Peace,
Hope the answers below help you.
1. Can the front struts’ brand be different than the back? I plan to go with Sachs (Kit-166320) in the front and Bilstein B4 (BIL-24271011 x 2) on the back.
The Front and Rear can be different, but I don’t like to do it as most company’s products are meant to work together and there might be a difference in spring rates or valving of the shocks. Now seeing these are not performance vehicles it might not be noticeable. I don’t know much about Sachs and would say go with Bilstein all around if possible.
2. What exactly is Bilstein B6 (BIL-24273671) and how is it compared to the B4? Is B6 really worth more dollars? The B6 shocks are more of a performance shock and are stiffer than stock and helps with body roll when turning and changing lanes but I doubt many people would like the stiffer ride it does not bother me. If you want a more comfortable ride, I would stick with the B4 shocks.
3. Now that I have already bought the Bilstein rear coil springs, should I buy only Bilstein rear shocks or can I opt for Sachs rear if I change my mind? I would suggest sticking to the same brand front and back if you can. I like Bilstein and don’t know much about Sachs but if it’s a budget shock I rather do Bilstein as I don’t want to have to go and change them again if the other brand does not last as long.
4. Is there a vendor/website other than FCP whom you would like to recommend considering the expenses now that I may run into on parts and labor? I normally check a bunch of sites and cross check the part numbers. Some of the other sites I would check are ecs tuning, 4x4 parts, Europa parts and even jegs.
5. Lastly, how many hours do you guys think would take getting all 4, the front and back struts/shocks replaced? I plan to start calling the mechanics around and negotiate on the labor. What is a nominal per hour rate?
I am not a professional and with filming I would say a better part of two days. I’m sure a professional shop can do it a lot faster so you will need to shop around but make sure they deal with European cars as some places say they can do it and might make a mess of it so check reviews and ask questions.
@@ProjectZGarage Thank you so much for the clarity. This really helps me. I appreciate your time again!
@@worldpeace5853 no problem
hello, how do these shock absorbers perform, is there any loss of comfort? I want to buy, but I'm wondering whether to choose standard or the B6 model ... hello from Poland
After driving for a couple hundred miles they are stiffer than the standard and you can tell the difference right away on small bumps but i feel the better control at highway speeds was worth the added stiffness in the ride. Also i think a better tire would help as i have some cheap tires on it right now i'm going to switch out to some continentals which i feel will help improve the ride comfort.
@@ProjectZGarage love my Michelin Defenders. Makes for a great ride weather sunny, rain, snow, & even ice. hold up better!
Cześć! I jaką decyzję podjąłeś? Zastanawiam się dokładnie nad tym samym. Pozdrawiam, Maciej
Same for 2012 ML350 Bluetec?
I'm not sure I think some of those had air suspension.
How's the ride with the new shocks? Is it much stiffer than stock?
YOOOOoooOOOOoooo how are these B6's holding up? I've had a kit from europe on order for 8 weeks, and possibly waiting another 6 or so, and Im wondering if its worth it? Ive got the matching eibach lowering springs to go with it. I'm just wondering if I need to go with B4's and lowering springs if the ride is super harsh
It is defiantly stiffer than stock and you will feel it at low speeds but on the highway it feels good and I like that it has less body roll.
How do go adjust the Height now!!
If you go off-road!
This ML350 did not have the air suspension.
Would this be similar to a 2014 350 glk
IM not sure have not done it on a GLK but it might be similar. you might want to poke around first before you decide to do it and see if everything is in the same place.