How to 'Properly' Hang a Wall Cabinet
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2022
- A fully loaded wall cabinet is a heavy item so hanging one in a wall that will stay one the wall is important. Watch me as I modify the suggested fixing and make sure my wall cabinet will be up forever.
Easy, Strong Dot and Dab Fixing Video: • How to Fix Heavy Items...
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It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
When holes are need to be drilled from the back of the cabinet, I use a very fine drill to start with from the back, then drill the size required from the inside of the cabinet. No splaying of finishing on the inside. Good videos Stuart I enjoying watching them each week, keep it up.
A client wanted a 2 metre wide Oak "Welsh Dresser" cabinet weighing over 60kg, fitted to a single skin breeze block dot & dabbed plasterboard wall. Dresser was to hold/display finest crockery. Used a 2 metre long cabinet hanging wall rail (cut down to fit inside of cabinet width end panels) & fixed rail to wall using nine Corefix Metal & Plastic Heavy Duty Dot & Dab wall fixings (10 × 95mm). Fitted a pair of 130 Kg rated Hafele Spider Concealed Cabinet Hangers (each with 4 off 10mm diameter metal dowel fixings) to inside back of cabinet end panels. Two of us lifted Cabinet onto Wall Rail & vertically/horizontally adjusted each cabinet hanger through two 25mm diameter holes in cabinet back panel, prior to fitting cover caps. That was several years ago & cabinet still on wall 👍
Fascinates me to see how meticulous you are and your level of detail and thought process is second to none, absolutely brilliant
Same cabinets that I have used and not a fan of those hangers, used a French cleat system similar to your idea but each batten is cut at a 45° angle so the two pieces slot into each other, used this system for more years than I care to mention.
I’ll probably never need to do this type of job but I loved watching the video anyway. Your skills are admirable.
Just wanted to mention: be careful boiling the kettle underneath the cupboard. I have a relative who did this for years and eventually the surface of the cupboard door started to separate from the door. Hope you have a nice Easter weekend!
Yes that's a pain in the deriair when that happens.
Yes agree, I have a similar set up, need to pull out the toaster when in use as the heat will eventually damage/burn the cupboard.....
Move the spout away when boiling
Uyea I have a friend that whenever they come by they seem to have this annoying habit of when they boil my kettle they turn it to face the wall and under a cabinet!! I tell them not to!!!🤦♀️🤦♀️🤯they don't come around much anymore thankfully!!🤣🤣🤣🤣😉
I was surprised how low that cabinet was. I didn't want to be a wise guy commenting on it but since I saw your comment I did want to at least reply to that.
It doesn't seem to be the "kitchen standard" height, i.e. it's not 60cm above the workbench.
I have ten of those cabinets hung on my kitchen walls (plasterboard) using blue Grippit fixings to mount the brackets and 2 1/2 years later they're holding perfectly well 👍👍
Only you could make a video about hanging a cabinet on a wall interesting & enjoyable to watch. Top job as always
Thank you
I love these types of videos from your channel. When I see them I know that this is a method I can trust to be practical and safe and accessible to DIYers. There's a reason your channel is growing so fast - keep doing what you're doing!
Thank you
Great video love how well you explain things without it being to complicated to understand some videos that others make I just can’t wrap my head around
And hey that workshop looks amazing thank you love watching the vids
Another fantastic video, really appreciated the way you approached fitting the heavy cabinet, it’s always a worry not knowing if one has done enough to ensure a positive fixing, but using your recent lessons/video on plasterboard fixing you have shown how it’s done yet again ……. Brilliant video
Another excellent video, thank you. Your way of explaining how to do various DIY jobs is easy to understand and put into practice. Some very good tips of hanging cabinets etc is much appreciated.
Excellent stuff, as always. Some really useful tips to make you more confident of your next project. Thank you!
From 1 chippy to a non chippy, I must say kudos man 👌
The best sort of extractor fan in a utility room is one auto operated by humidity.
When condensation from drying clothes overnight, etc. causes condensation indoors, a humidistat fan automatically removes it so all is dry by morning!
When fitting end panels I would normally set them forward and scribe the back edge so they finish flush with the front of the door.
So many tips and easy instructions . Love this channel . I don’t do anything DIY without checking this channel playlist
Thank you
Excellent video
Thank you for your valuable time and effort in making this very useful video.
Nice job! (As usual 🙂). One thing I sometimes do when mounting cabinets and other heavy items is to drill the holes into the wall sloping slightly downwards, which reduces the chance of the screws pulling out as the vector force on them is nearer 90 degrees to the line of the screw. I'm not sure how much difference this would make in a plasterboard-faced wall, though: most of my installs have been against solid brick walls.
Close to none … 😂😂😂
Good job! It's a pleasure to see you working!
You do excellent work chap. I love watching your videos
I was expecting you to use a french cleat, which is what I did at my old house. Also I never felt the need to use felt on my cupboard doors, they are always quiet no matter how hard you close them!!!
Great job... Good dod of filler in those holes and great fixing... buying a house you've lived in must be a big win- more solid than when it was built!
I follow your videos from the south of Spain, I see them very complete and always with a bit of humor. keep it up Stuart
Thank you Jose
Me gustó su trabajo, quedó muy bien. Un saludo
I do something very similar to your hangers but I do it at the bottom of the cabinet. This means the bottom is supported and held tight to the wall so there is no sagging of the bottom shelf if you really load it up.
Nice work. When we do fillers we put a block behind and screw into that. Then the filler sits forward flush with the door.
Top Class video. Clear broadcast of your skills. Thank you greatly, found your video just in time for my kitchen arriving. Peace be unto you.
Can you come round to my house please? The cabinets in my kitchen are nearly up to the ceiling (don’t know if the last person was about 8ft tall) and I need a step ladder to use them and I’m getting old 😩 These videos are great because you show how easy it is to do a job properly. I just wish most “professionals” would do that too!
Nice thorough explanation of the job!
Thanks
Those makeshift block brackets you have connected on the back are such a simple but great idea, I kick myself now for not using them when I did my kitchen
Another great job Stuart,,, Love watching your videos
Thanks Ray
Great Job Stu, but how annoying is the small chip on the inside corner of the left door?
If you use plain threaded rod you can unwind the threaded bar by using 2 nuts locked together then unwind the bottom nut, to prevent the removal of the threaded bar suppliers grind a flat section on the end of the stud which will prevent any rotation, brilliant video and they are great fixings, I use to work for a well know seating company and we sometimes had to use chemical fixings on our installations. 👍
Stuart,
As a wise man once said "Perfick, Ma, Perfick".
You made that look so easy!
Thank you so much, trying to do things myself and this was super helpful. Appreciate.
Clean job. Thanks for the tutorial!
Nice Job, To avoid chipout I always do it with a router clean cuts
Rigifix M8 are by far the best heavy duty dot and dab fixings I’ve ever used. They are superb.
Not tried the rigifix..
Used corefix plenty of times they are pretty good ..
Might give the rigifix a try
@@davewright9312 I’ve used both… Rigifix… good enough for a security/gun cabinet.. as good as M10 rawlbolts in brick IMO.
A brilliant video as always. I have to laugh though, because all of your details to making it perfect (which absolutely makes for a great finished cabinet), you go and spoil it by leaving the left hand door with a big chip in the inside bottom corner....shown at 15:30. 😂😂😂
Another awesome video, thanks Stuart
Thanks Paul
Great video thanks Stuart
Informative and easy to follow as usual.
An under cabinet light with a feed from the extractor fan would have been good though...
Nice job, Stuart. For a similar application, I incorporated a French cleat in my store bought cupboard as the fixings looked a bit dodgy to me. BTW, I was hoping so much for you to reveal a cupboard full of your mugs and was very pleased to see it in the end!
Was the mugs tging so obvious?
I've done the very same thing with French Cleats. Discovering French Cleats several years ago was quite an eye-opener. Such a simple idea yet so incredibly effective.
@@ProperDIY ha! I think I’m well tuned in to your sense of humour - which I hope is a good thing for both of us :-).
Very nice job!
Lovely bit of improvisation and customisation. We've all done it. 😁
Must say Ikea's solution for securely hanging is a good notch better. On some occasions I've just added a few more of their L-brackets when needed since the bracket's holes fits the shelf's holes. And they used to be freely available at their service desk (unfortunately not anymore).
Those soft close plastic mechanisms are cheap and cheerful, but won't last longer than a year if that. We bought them as well from B&Q and most of them broke off or the damper give up.
I highly recommend getting something better them .
Why dont you use the old fan switch to feed some under cabinet lighting? perhaps your next project on here?
Yes you could do but if i did on video i get significant grief from electricians
@@ProperDIY taking their job away eh?
At 11:30, can you clarify if that is a damp proof membrane or just a plain rubble bag?
Does it need to be flame retardant insulation ?
Do you use any insulation around the fan outlet when fitting a new fan?
I came on the comments section to say the exact same thing ! 😊
Very nice job mate .. 👍
Nice! I suppose if you wanted to keep the fan, you could fix-on a dressed 2"x2" frame first, which would give an excellent fixing for cabinet, & use a round to flat adapter for the fan vent, & route it through the back framing to come out through the side where it meets the wall.? 🤔
Great job
Great video, thanks !!
Cant you use the vent wires to add led strip light to the bottom of the cabinet?
Keep up the good work!
This video made my Easter weekend...
Thanks Stuart ,great Video as usual, but I just learnt something from it, you put the Felt dampeners on the door :) for all this time I have been putting them on the Cupboard not the door. 👍
Thanks
Great video , very helpful , what plugs / screws are you using to hang unit on wall , thanks
Great video Stuart and yet again useful information and tips for any future jobs. Also a bit of a reveal about your 'old' channel, might just have to check a few of those out (not that I have any intentions of going there). Cheers. 😁👍
Thank you 👍
God, I love your vids, buddy! Keep them coming!
Thanks
Looks great!
For adjoining cabinets, its worth chasing out for the wall hangers, that way you don't get the ridiculous situation where even if fitted perfectly, the wall hangers are only holding it out of centre which causes more stress on the hangers. Better to have the wall hangers spanning unit, making it far less likely it won't have a firm hold.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks Larry
Great video, as always. I don't get the fan. Why remove it?
Hi another great clear video , what did you do with the wires to the extractor fan? keep up the good work ,
G.
Now had chance to watch it all. Great video and exactly what I’ll need for an upcoming project. I was waiting for the gag from the moment you mentioned the kettle and sure enough you didn’t disappoint although I had to wait until the very end! Couple of observations - when you added the load-spreading bar across the top did you consider a french cleat (I thought that was where you were heading)? Could’ve then done away with those supplied metal hooks completely. And - a bit more tongue in cheek - but I thought you might have asked Peter M to supply the cabinet itself :-)
I didn't think of a French cleat - I suppose I was looking for the quickest solution. I didn't think about getting Peter to make me one as even though he would go e me a good discount I doubt I could afford Peter's craftsmanship.
Great video , can you tell us the brand / model of watch your are wearing .Looks very functional.
I was also worried that two small wall fixings was too flimsy for all that weight, but Howdens and probably other reputable kitchen suppliers sell the same wall fixing in 600mm or 1200mm lengths that allow you to make multiple secure fixes. The other benefit of this is that you get no dog leg where two units are fitted side by side.
Keep up the good content.. where did you purchase the cordless vacuum cleaner from please?
Did you consider using the french cleat system like someone mentioned earlier ?
Hi Tom could you do a video on consealed kitchen unit hinges
Good video as usual, do you have a link to the tools that you use anywhere?
Great video thank you it's a great shame about the chip on the bottom hinge side of the left door 15:20 . I'd be cussing like mad LOL
I do something similar but screw a piece of 2x4 to the wall underneath so the weight rests on it. I also use a din rail to give me more screw locations
Snap
Superb Stuff. Followed your method (GIve or Take ) that was a while back. It's still there and it's full of half full tins of paint.later.
Nice one
Great video aways, informative and easy to understand. Thank you P D
Thank you PQ
Tidy job as always matey !
Hi please could you post the link for the Cabinet Door Soft Closer that you used in this video? i have seen other ones online but i like the one which you used. Thanks.
The result looks good. But please what was your intention drilling first 2x 4 horizontal (upper) holes, but instead of using them for mounting, secondly filling them directly with gypsum/plaster filler ? Reserved for future use ?
Before installing dry walls, I have good expierience screwing wooden plate behind the dry wall backside, to create a screwable montage zone behind the dry wall for heavy cabinets.
Brilliant - I could never get mine to turn out like that 😆
Nice videos. Just wondered why you did not use the 'resin anchors' you seemed to love a video or 2 back...?
Nice video. Love country music. How would you fix this to a plaserboard stud partition wall?
Always a professional 👌 👏
Thanks Martyn
thank you for the video my installer ocd kicks in im afraid, the mitre joint wasnt tight enough for my liking and i usually wax the joins also so then the disappear.
why is the decor panel not level with door? when ever tape is added either side of a caulk line its leaves a line the thickness of the tape which all ways look horrid.
Very nice and clean installation, just have to give you some tips on masticing. Lol
Hi stuart
Can you get a bracket that fixes the full length of the wall ? Almost like a tv bracket so you can hang a bank of cupboards in a row,iv got a diy kitchen on the go it would make life a lot easier
Top lads doing top jobs. What's not to like.
Thanks Sunny Jim!
Use the Red And White Mag 😂 Great Work
That detector any good? As ive yet to find 1 that is? If it is what 1 was it?
Toaster and kettle in the utility room Stuart? Sounds more like a second kitchen to me :-) Going to need to save this video as I’ve had the same job on my list for a long time after I messed up putting some shelves in our utility room last year. Cabinet will be better option.
Good to get the kettle out of the main kitchen.
What if you wanted to keep that fan driven vent working through the cabinet, possibly vented through the top of the cabinet?
Crikey! I've NeVeR EvEr thought about doing that much extra wrk jus 2 hang a standard cabinet! 🤪 Looked great tho 👍
Shame about the small chip on the inside bottom corner of the left hand door. Put some white sealer on it it's only going to get on your nerves over time or worse the missus will say so! Good video though as always, thank you.
No, it saved me £15 and it is just my utility room
I’ve used a small dab of Tippex to mask similar chips in the past. It’s not perfect but more than enough to stop it catching my eye all the time.
When I saw the title, my immediate thought was "French Cleat" 🤪
I like your vids but you need to look into how you fit a dec end panel and hide your screws with the hinges
Where do I buy sheets of white high gloss panels? I need some for my bathroom
The brackets hold the cupboards no problem at all. 👍🏻
Does your toaster heat up/discolour the underside of the unit? Looks like it's a bit too close.
Fabulous
Can u do a vido on adjusting thos cabnit hinges. I cant get them right.no matter what i do. Ther on wardrob doors