Great video. The only concern I have with anyone doing this is that the garage ceiling itself was not built with this in mind. I am sure it will be fine for some "lighter" items, but eventually someone will try to lift something too heavy and collapse the ceiling.
Hello! Nice video, very helpful since it stimulates the brain. I pick and choose the additional replies left by your viewers. I skip over the negativity but weigh the safety concerns. Just finished with installation of a two door 30' wide 35' deep all steel garage. I'm happy the roof trusses are designed and bent to provide the cross pieces for bicycle racks and such. The concern being the lifting and hoisting kayaks up for storing when not in use, also removing them from roof racks on vehicles. Your electric hoist is a much better choice over the "by hand manual" method which also is not good for the backbone! Excellent! I especially like the idea of mounting the components to a "ceiling" with clear view of structural design. Please keep an eye on your mountings in the ceiling of your garage, they DO scare me a bit! I haven't watched your 2nd video yet but will after this comment. Thanks to other viewers for pointing out their concerns, use positive reinforcement in comments. Nice goes a long way!
Thanks, I appreciated it. I value the opinions, good or bad, of others who are much more knowledgeable than me. I went back and bolstered the mounting bolts in the second video. My largest jet ski is about 700 lbs., all others are between 550 and 650. So far, I haven't had any issues, and I check it pretty often.
I've had the parts to do this for two years and am just getting around to it now. I bought different unistrut trollies and would have had to waste half a day making the t mount style you used. Thanks for the info!
YES.. I BOUGHT MY UNISTRUT /PARTS FROM A DISTRIBUTOR,,HAVE TO PUT BOLTS TO KEEP THEM FROM SPREADING ,ALSO 3" 9/16" LAG BOLT IS A LITTLE SKETCHY-I,M ASSUMING YOU HAV 2X 10S IN THE CIELING, BUT IF YOU HAVE 2X 4 JOISTS YOUR IN TROUBLE..BUT DO A HANG TEST W 3 OF UR FAT BUDDIES..LOL
This is something that I see myself needing at some point in the near future. I'm hoping to get a jet ski or two myself. Hopefully within the next couple of months so that I can get them repaired/rebuilt or whatever is needed, for this next year. Hopefully, I will get better at making videos by then. Regardless, thanks for the content you have provided so far. It does help people.
I'm Guessing you figured out that you cannot hook up the hook that way on the bottom as it will trash your handle on the pressure washer. the hook needs to be free so that the cable can go through the pulley on it. But you know that by now!
Seems like the weakest link are the lag screws/bolts. What is each rated for? I see the weight is somewhat spread over the 10 foot trolley rail but you only have 5 screws into the beam. Is that enough to hold/lift a 1000lb jet ski? Especially at the ends? Looks great but just curious?
That is my thinking as well. I've been told those lag bolts are strong enough to hold, but I'm still a little concerned when it comes to lifting an entire jet ski. The only weight rating I could find on the bolts is around 200 to 250 lbs. each, depending on the kind of wood. What I read was 100 pounds per inch of thread. The largest ski I own is the Yamaha XL800 which has a spec weight of 692 lbs. With fuel, oil, and accessories it is over 700 lbs. The other skis have spec weights around 600 lbs. each. I'm going to continue asking around for a definite answer.
@@papadonjetski9535 It is probably fine. I just would worry about the bolts pulling out, but that's me. I usually over engineer the design especially if there is a chance of it ripping out and crashing to the floor...lol. The area above my garage was built to put a bonus room, so much more solid than a normal attic floor. I want to add a hoist too but would have to use the floor joists for support. They are 2 x 12's spaced 12 inches apart. I've seen it done but not sure it is safe.
When the hoist is at the end of the track, almost all of the weight will be held by one lag screw, not all 5, so be careful. Maybe double up the brackets and lag bolts at the ends?
That is awesome, great idea for moving the ski's around. I'm planning on doing the same to move my ski on and off the trailer. Having trouble finding the right bearing trolley to suit and noticed your one will bolt directly to the hoist and I wondered if you could let me know where you purchased them from? Cheers. Also check out the aquasling which fits on the gunwhale to lift the ski as may be better than lifting strops under the hull.
I bought them from RHKing through Amazon. Here is the address, just copy to your browser. www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G The aquasling looks great, but a little steep in price right now. Who knows, if I have trouble with the straps I may just buy the sling.
I own a 2005 Sea Doo GTX. It weighs around 835 pounds. I would be extremely careful if you plan to lift a complete jet ski with the engine. I use a two ton shop crane with a sling specifically made for lifting jet skis. I have a 220/440 pound H.F. hoist, which looks like the one you have. I use my hoist to lift motorcycle engines while they're on my motorcycle lift.
Your 2005 GTX must be a four stroke. My heaviest ski is a 2001 Yamaha XL800 and it weighs 700 pounds. You are right though. My plan is to use it more for engine pulls than lifting jet skis.
I don't think setup could handle 1300 lbs if that is what you are asking. That kind of weight would probably rip the bolts out of the beam. It has been a while now, so I don't remember where I got everything. Check the comments because a few others asked and I think I gave links to where I purchased the supplies.
Thanks for the quick reply, I bought the unistrut rail at Lowe's, waiting for the other items as I used your l;inks to order all needed items. Do you have a suggestion for a sling? Thanks again.
I've spent hours looking for a jeep hard top removal solution. After hours of research and several overpriced options, this is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Do you have any idea on what weight rating this would have? You're bolted into a supporting beam, I would have to run it into joints. Ultimately I'd love to be able to life jeep roof, rack and tent and suspend it. probably around 500lbs.
Sorry for my slow response. Not sure I understand your weight rating question, but I'll try and answer. My hoist has a weight rating of 800 lbs. i followed my video with another in which I reinforced the hoist by adding larger bolts with a higher weight rating and I added bolts to go through the brackets holding the rail. I did this to improve my overall weight rating so that I never lose a jet ski. If the joints you will bolt it to can handle 500 lbs then you should be good to go. Let me know if I totally misunderstood your question.
CONCERNS: The lag bolts you used are not only thin, but short. The washers you used are known as FENDER WASHERS and they can be easily bent. You should replace them while replacing the lag bolt with much more substantial bolts. Next, the brackets have holes crosswise and they are there for bolts to cross through and retain the shape of the brackets, (keep them from spreading), under load. Last, do you know what the uni-strut is rated for?? I realize you don't "PLAN" to lift anything too heavy, but I can tell you from many, many safety meetings in the steel industry, SHIP HAPPENS!!!!!! ALLLLLWAYS overbuild.....
can you please give the sources for the hardware you bought? Having a hard time finding the parts to do this? Where did you buy the trolly railing at, Lowes does'nt have a clue, not sure about hm depot?
The 4 wheel roller trolleys came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel. I bought the trolley rail at Home Depot. It is actually called a unistrut rail. Look it up on their website.
What did you use to nut drive the lag through the hanger into the ceiling beam? I guess you need an extension on the drill driver to clear the sides of hanger.
I bought the 10ft strut channel rail, bolts and washers from Home Depot. The hoist came from Harbor Freight and the 4 wheel roller trolley came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel
@@papadonjetski9535 thank you Just built a hoist to lower someone into a bath tub, and may be building an elevator or lift /sled to move groceries up 4 feet from the garage to the house. I am going to wire it in with a gfi and afi breaker . You you have many good ideas thanks
That was my original plan, but there wasn't enough clearance inside the unistrut for the bearing wheels to pass through. I tried using a flat head bolt, but it still wouldn't work. I was going to point that out in the video, but totally forgot.
I want to build one similar for hoisting stuff up into garage mezzanine. Going to build a platform with eye bolts on corners and lift up. My challenge is no beam across ceiling and roof trusses are parallel not perpendicular to mezzanine. Ideas on how to suspend from parallel ceiling trusses? Plywood on ceiling by the way not drywall.
The 4 wheel roller trolleys came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel
I mounted mine across several trusses and I will only be lifting about 300 pounds of 5th wheel hitch. I believe it will work fine. Thanks for your response.
That was the first thing I tried. The bolt heads prevented it from working. I even tried flat head deck screws, but it still did not allow enough room for the bearing wheels to pass through.
Theirs programs in your local tech center that can help teach you numbers and addition. It’s adults like this who can’t even count that prove our educational system is terrible!
Great video. The only concern I have with anyone doing this is that the garage ceiling itself was not built with this in mind. I am sure it will be fine for some "lighter" items, but eventually someone will try to lift something too heavy and collapse the ceiling.
Hello! Nice video, very helpful since it stimulates the brain. I pick and choose the additional replies left by your viewers. I skip over the negativity but weigh the safety concerns.
Just finished with installation of a two door 30' wide 35' deep all steel garage. I'm happy the roof trusses are designed and bent to provide the cross pieces for bicycle racks and such. The concern being the lifting and hoisting kayaks up for storing when not in use, also removing them from roof racks on vehicles. Your electric hoist is a much better choice over the "by hand manual" method which also is not good for the backbone! Excellent! I especially like the idea of mounting the components to a "ceiling" with clear view of structural design. Please keep an eye on your mountings in the ceiling of your garage, they DO scare me a bit! I haven't watched your 2nd video yet but will after this comment.
Thanks to other viewers for pointing out their concerns, use positive reinforcement in comments. Nice goes a long way!
Thanks, I appreciated it. I value the opinions, good or bad, of others who are much more knowledgeable than me. I went back and bolstered the mounting bolts in the second video. My largest jet ski is about 700 lbs., all others are between 550 and 650. So far, I haven't had any issues, and I check it pretty often.
This is exactly what I’m gonna use for my rooftop tent and MANY other things
I've had the parts to do this for two years and am just getting around to it now. I bought different unistrut trollies and would have had to waste half a day making the t mount style you used. Thanks for the info!
Brilliant. I love it. Any way you could share a parts list and where you got them?
Don't forget to add bolts to keep the unistrut hangers from opening under weight.
Thanks, I totally missed that.
YES.. I BOUGHT MY UNISTRUT /PARTS FROM A DISTRIBUTOR,,HAVE TO PUT BOLTS TO KEEP THEM FROM SPREADING ,ALSO 3" 9/16" LAG BOLT IS A LITTLE SKETCHY-I,M ASSUMING YOU HAV 2X 10S IN THE CIELING, BUT IF YOU HAVE 2X 4 JOISTS YOUR IN TROUBLE..BUT DO A HANG TEST W 3 OF UR FAT BUDDIES..LOL
This is something that I see myself needing at some point in the near future. I'm hoping to get a jet ski or two myself. Hopefully within the next couple of months so that I can get them repaired/rebuilt or whatever is needed, for this next year. Hopefully, I will get better at making videos by then. Regardless, thanks for the content you have provided so far. It does help people.
That’s awesome!!! But I’d def go up in the attic and add bracing from the bottom rafters to the top and top bracing, great job!
Well, directly above the garage is a spare bedroom/game room and so that limits my ability to brace it further, or at least that is my thinking.
@@papadonjetski9535 u should be good then cause a floor is built stronger than a ceiling
It lag bolts into a beam
I'm Guessing you figured out that you cannot hook up the hook that way on the bottom as it will trash your handle on the pressure washer. the hook needs to be free so that the cable can go through the pulley on it. But you know that by now!
Thank you for sharing this video. I'm going to do something similar in my garage hopefully soon!
Good luck!
Seems like the weakest link are the lag screws/bolts. What is each rated for? I see the weight is somewhat spread over the 10 foot trolley rail but you only have 5 screws into the beam. Is that enough to hold/lift a 1000lb jet ski? Especially at the ends? Looks great but just curious?
That is my thinking as well. I've been told those lag bolts are strong enough to hold, but I'm still a little concerned when it comes to lifting an entire jet ski. The only weight rating I could find on the bolts is around 200 to 250 lbs. each, depending on the kind of wood. What I read was 100 pounds per inch of thread. The largest ski I own is the Yamaha XL800 which has a spec weight of 692 lbs. With fuel, oil, and accessories it is over 700 lbs. The other skis have spec weights around 600 lbs. each. I'm going to continue asking around for a definite answer.
@@papadonjetski9535 It is probably fine. I just would worry about the bolts pulling out, but that's me. I usually over engineer the design especially if there is a chance of it ripping out and crashing to the floor...lol. The area above my garage was built to put a bonus room, so much more solid than a normal attic floor. I want to add a hoist too but would have to use the floor joists for support. They are 2 x 12's spaced 12 inches apart. I've seen it done but not sure it is safe.
When the hoist is at the end of the track, almost all of the weight will be held by one lag screw, not all 5, so be careful. Maybe double up the brackets and lag bolts at the ends?
@@dangreen3702 Or triple on the ends and double all the others. Either way, good point!
I think you should install the retaining bolts on the track hanger bracket. These bolts will keep the hangers from opening up.
In my follow-up video I added bracket retaining bolts and larger bolts for the rail.
How you have not injured yourself I will never know - putting hook around double cable and wrapping electric cable around wire cable !
That is awesome, great idea for moving the ski's around. I'm planning on doing the same to move my ski on and off the trailer. Having trouble finding the right bearing trolley to suit and noticed your one will bolt directly to the hoist and I wondered if you could let me know where you purchased them from? Cheers. Also check out the aquasling which fits on the gunwhale to lift the ski as may be better than lifting strops under the hull.
I bought them from RHKing through Amazon. Here is the address, just copy to your browser. www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G
The aquasling looks great, but a little steep in price right now. Who knows, if I have trouble with the straps I may just buy the sling.
@@papadonjetski9535 cheers, will have a look.
I own a 2005 Sea Doo GTX. It weighs around 835 pounds. I would be extremely careful if you plan to lift a complete jet ski with the engine. I use a two ton shop crane with a sling specifically made for lifting jet skis. I have a 220/440 pound H.F. hoist, which looks like the one you have. I use my hoist to lift motorcycle engines while they're on my motorcycle lift.
Your 2005 GTX must be a four stroke. My heaviest ski is a 2001 Yamaha XL800 and it weighs 700 pounds. You are right though. My plan is to use it more for engine pulls than lifting jet skis.
Great Video, Quick questions you think it will work for 1300lb hoist. and where did get the other hardware from lag bolts, roller bearings, etc...
I don't think setup could handle 1300 lbs if that is what you are asking. That kind of weight would probably rip the bolts out of the beam. It has been a while now, so I don't remember where I got everything. Check the comments because a few others asked and I think I gave links to where I purchased the supplies.
Thanks for the quick reply, I bought the unistrut rail at Lowe's, waiting for the other items as I used your l;inks to order all needed items. Do you have a suggestion for a sling? Thanks again.
I don't have a sling, but I'm going to go that route myself soon. Using rachet straps can be a little sketchy.
I've spent hours looking for a jeep hard top removal solution. After hours of research and several overpriced options, this is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Do you have any idea on what weight rating this would have? You're bolted into a supporting beam, I would have to run it into joints. Ultimately I'd love to be able to life jeep roof, rack and tent and suspend it. probably around 500lbs.
Sorry for my slow response. Not sure I understand your weight rating question, but I'll try and answer. My hoist has a weight rating of 800 lbs. i followed my video with another in which I reinforced the hoist by adding larger bolts with a higher weight rating and I added bolts to go through the brackets holding the rail. I did this to improve my overall weight rating so that I never lose a jet ski. If the joints you will bolt it to can handle 500 lbs then you should be good to go. Let me know if I totally misunderstood your question.
CONCERNS: The lag bolts you used are not only thin, but short. The washers you used are known as FENDER WASHERS and they can be easily bent. You should replace them while replacing the lag bolt with much more substantial bolts. Next, the brackets have holes crosswise and they are there for bolts to cross through and retain the shape of the brackets, (keep them from spreading), under load. Last, do you know what the uni-strut is rated for?? I realize you don't "PLAN" to lift anything too heavy, but I can tell you from many, many safety meetings in the steel industry, SHIP HAPPENS!!!!!! ALLLLLWAYS overbuild.....
Valid points, and I think I addressed them in the follow-up video i made on the hoist. I reinforced the bolts and brackets.
can you please give the sources for the hardware you bought? Having a hard time finding the parts to do this? Where did you buy the trolly railing at, Lowes does'nt have a clue, not sure about hm depot?
The 4 wheel roller trolleys came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel. I bought the trolley rail at Home Depot. It is actually called a unistrut rail. Look it up on their website.
Is it drilled into a solid wood or LVL beam?
Hi, thanks for the video. Can you please tell me how long of the metal track you can buy?
It comes in 10 ft sections. I believe I got it at Home Depot.
Thank you!!!
You can get them shorter, amazon 5ft if needed
What did you use to nut drive the lag through the hanger into the ceiling beam? I guess you need an extension on the drill driver to clear the sides of hanger.
I just used a short extension along with a deep socket. There was plenty of clearance through the bottom of the bracket.
What weight do you think you can lift with that system?
I've been lifting my 600 lb plus jet skis without any issues.
Good in theory but that system is only as good as the threads on those lags. Don’t be surprised when they start getting loose over time
Use the unisrtut in a h pattern to have 3d movement
Hi great idea where did your get the parts?
I bought the 10ft strut channel rail, bolts and washers from Home Depot. The hoist came from Harbor Freight and the 4 wheel roller trolley came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel
@@papadonjetski9535 thank you Just built a hoist to lower someone into a bath tub, and may be building an elevator or lift /sled to move groceries up 4 feet from the garage to the house. I am going to wire it in with a gfi and afi breaker . You you have many good ideas thanks
How did you mount the hoist to the rollers?
Why not just screw the unistrut right into the ceiling? Seems like the extra brackets are unnecessary? Or am I missing something
That was my original plan, but there wasn't enough clearance inside the unistrut for the bearing wheels to pass through. I tried using a flat head bolt, but it still wouldn't work. I was going to point that out in the video, but totally forgot.
@@papadonjetski9535 ah ok now I get it thx
I want to build one similar for hoisting stuff up into garage mezzanine. Going to build a platform with eye bolts on corners and lift up. My challenge is no beam across ceiling and roof trusses are parallel not perpendicular to mezzanine. Ideas on how to suspend from parallel ceiling trusses? Plywood on ceiling by the way not drywall.
You obviously hooked that up wrong. Your bottom pulley is bound up.
Thanks for the info
Where did you get the trolleys and hangers
The 4 wheel roller trolleys came from www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G. The support bracket came from www.unistrutohio.com/unistrut-p1834a-trolley-track-hanger-support-1-58-channel
Where can I buy the wheel bearing?
www.amazon.com/RHKING-Electric-Installation-Trolley-Assembly/dp/B09JFDH39G
Do you know how much weight the ceiling will hold?
I don't. If it were just a ceiling, I wouldn't have mounted the hoist. I probably need to get a building guy over here to give me some idea.
I mounted mine across several trusses and I will only be lifting about 300 pounds of 5th wheel hitch. I believe it will work fine. Thanks for your response.
@@Mstredtrusses or joists? I did mine across 5 joists. I think you’re fine over multiple trusses.
Yeah, I have mine over multiple trusses. It works great.@@miami3863
Why bother with the brackets, rail could have been screwed directly to the ceiling and have it go the full width.
That was the first thing I tried. The bolt heads prevented it from working. I even tried flat head deck screws, but it still did not allow enough room for the bearing wheels to pass through.
Extremely dangerous!
This set up is only as strong as those lag screws pulling out under load!
You are right. I addressed that in the follow-up video.
Definitely wrong way to attach the cable . The block pulley is needed to cut the lifting force needed in half !!!
I know, I've heard it from many people. I've never used a hoist before this so I'm learning.
NEVER EVER hook the snatch block on the cable like you just did. VERY DUMB!!!!!
Yeah, I know that now. I've gotten a lot of messages letting me know how dumb that was.
You don't know how to rig. Your killing your cable.....
Man. Can’t even count the things you did wrong.
Theirs programs in your local tech center that can help teach you numbers and addition. It’s adults like this who can’t even count that prove our educational system is terrible!