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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2023
- Movable shop hoist with strut channel. In this video I'll be installing an electric ceiling hoist in my home shop. This beats the manual block and tackle I've used for years.
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Trolley assembly
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Channel hangers
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Electric hoist
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Good job explaining everything, went slow so everyone could follow easily, Good Job! Thanks.
I made the same for lifting to the second floor of my barn. I have never pick up more than 150 pounds. It works fine all of the time. You did a great job.
NEVER GET UNDER THE LIFTED LOAD!
Lifting to the second floor is an excellent application. Sometimes wish I would have built in a trap door to my loft.
Nice, I have the Harbor Freight version and have TGI floor joists too. I left a large opening to my attic for passing big items upstairs. I spanned the opening with a steel beam on top of the floor and attached the hoist tight to the bottom. This means I can get my hook above the ceiling plane because the hoist is in the joist cavity.
Smart. That would be a nice setup.
LOL that ending, you deserve more views.
I actually did the same setup but with 3 10' strut channels, I used a "Strut Channel Connector Extend" to combine all 3 struts.
I put this set-up at the ridge of my "shed". I ran a steel cable parallel to the channel. I then attached metal (small ones) links (which have a gap side) every 2' attached to the motor's electrical cable. I then attached these links to the steel cable. This allows the movement of the hoist across the entire length of the channel without a lot of electrical cord hanging down. The most that hangs down is about a foot. It keeps everything tidy.
I attached the same way on the second floor of my shop. I spanned 6 engineered joists directly on the floor. I used 3/16 steel c channel and 1/2 threaded rod with 3/16 2 inch washers. I used a total of 6 strut brackets. I probably went a bit overkill. I noticed you just used plate over the floor. Sure it will be fine but it’s basically just pressed and
glued. The weight is still distributed along the joists but also a lot of pressure directly on the floor. Amazing all the people that just screw or lag. Nice job!
you should measure between your anchor points if you want to see deflection - not between to anchor points that aren't directly subject to the load. I was glad to see you weren't bolting to just the bottom flange of the I joist. I did something similar in my garage but used the lightweight steel beam - it was heavy to install (not recommended) - and the trolleys were more costly. You have a very elegant and strong system, well done. Great video. I woudl also warn others to not assume their garage ceiling can handle something like this! I have seen it - but I wouldn't do it. I plated my I-joists on each side with 12" x 14" piece of ½" OSB (the 14" is from top to bottom- 2" extra below), and added a 2x4 on the bottom. then I glued (liquid nails) and screwed it off the upper and lower flanges and 2x4 (from the sides) . This engages the top flange and bottom flange of the I-joist. the steel beam is bolted through with ⅜" lag bolts (2) per joist. My beam runs perpendicular to the I-Joists. I can lift as much the floor will support - which I plan to stick to under 1,000#.
Thank you for the quick response, I live in "The Country ", so to speak and the smaller Lowe's did not carry it, found it at Hm Depot & Larger Lowe's stores.👍
The straps should connect to the wheels, not to the frame for a couple of reasons.
1. You'll have more clearance underneath because the ATV's suspension won't be hanging.
2. The tension in the *vertical* cable is 650#, but the tension in the angled strap may be split 4 ways but the tension in each strap is also multiplied significantly because of the angle. (Not surprised it bends your fender.)
To keep trolley straight clamp a length of square stock to sides of trolley then tighten bolts. By adding a table clamp to end of one trolly can use it as resistance or brake.
For your power cord…. you could clamp it to the ceiling ear the outlet, the pull the slack to one side with a bungee cord. Great job!
If the ceiling came down, the video would have gone viral. You couldn’t lose!
Easiest way would have been to hang all the brackets then simply slide the strut channel through them. I did that to mine after trying to do the same thing you were doing lol.
I replaced the cable on mine with kevlar rope plenty of capacity and won't get cable burrs. Plus I cut the rope to match the length needed. so I don't have a bunch of extra on the spool. You can also build your own rollers using sliding door rollers.
Thanks for the channel/trolley leads. I can't do what you did because I have low headroom - I was going to bolt the hoist to the bottom of the big wood beam. However I could mount a pair of channels w/trolleys on each side of the beam and then fab a plate "c-section" that would "conform" to the beam that I could bolt the hoist to. A lot of work and some additional cost, but I would only give up about an inch of headroom. Even if directly mounted, I would not use a channel since gives up too much head space.
The trolley is a cool idea. I was just going to bolt it up to lumber directly but I could see being able to move the load left and right being pretty handy.
I was going to do the same thing at first. It’s definitely nice having it move.
Good job planning ahead with the double joists. Can I suggest adding another length of unistrut starting at the wood beam on one end going close to the wood rack on the other. This will give more coverage but also allow you to use 3 or 4 small rollers supporting a coiled electrical cord to get power to the hoist. Look up “festoon” for jib cranes for examples of this system.
Very good demonstration ! Cheers !
You have to get a cheap portable bandsaw. It makes quick work of that all thread and strut. Cuts clean fast and quiet.
Likely the reason it doesn't move well with weight on it is because the winch doesn't pull from the middle. The edge of the drum is about a 1inch to 1 1/2 off set to one side. So when loaded it wants to tilt in the mount. One possible way to lessen this would be to put a roller on the outside of the mount under the Unistrut. I would start by moving all the slop in the mounts to one side so the rollers are the closest to the side the cable comes off the winch drum.
The rollers would hit the hangers if they are running along the bottom of the strut. You have a good idea but I think the only way it would work was if the strut was mounted directly, without the hangers. I honestly don't see why you need the hangers other than if the trolleys take up all the space inside the strut.
Amazing set up!
You can also get winches with a remote control so that would eliminate one wire hanging down.
You could use a jig clamp with a string on it to pull when you want it to stay on place.
Great video, thank you for sharing.
They got this new stuff called Cutting Oil so you don't wear out your drill bits so fast 😊
Use a pole with a large plastic coated hook to pull the load over to you after it is up in the storage area.
I would more than likely just bolted the U track straight to the 2x12 joists with 3 inch lag bolts every 2 feet or so. Would that still allow the trolley and motor parts room to slide?
The trolley wheels take up almost all of the space inside the track so the bolt heads will be in the way.
If you turn the winch 180 degrees your cords will be on the proper end so your cords won't have to come across the front of the winch since your plug-in is on the other end of the track.
What about mounting it with the trollies installed loosely then tighten the mounting bolts once you get yhem aligned eith the track and they roll easily eith no binding
Don't tweak the trolley, level the channel. Also, use another trolley for extra power cord support.
you could run a 10' piece of PVC pipe or 1/2" conduit and zip tie the power cord to some dollar-store shower curtain rings so the power cord will be up and out of the way?
Thanks very informative 😊
I know hind sight is 20/20 but why not use the all-thread to raise and lower the track to level the system so it doesn’t roll to one side?
What are you planning to use the hoist for. You had the block&tackle.😊
I understand why you supported the strut with only the brackets due to the space required by the rollers, but I see that as the weak link where, even tho you have a cross bolt, the entire strut is hanging from the 2 tabs at the bottom. I would weld those tabs to the strut to provide better support and keep the system from moving L to R.
I use 'unistrut' and threaded rod everywhere. It's fantastic what you can do with it !
Where do you buy the channel railing at, tried Lowes, don't carry it.? Can you make a suggestion? Also what is the correct name for the Railing, no one seems top know what I am talking about? Thanks ahead of time.
Strut channel or channel strut. Lowe’s around here carry’s it but otherwise try Home Depot or Menards.
Thanks for the video. I'm having trouble getting the trolley wheels to go in the unistrut channel. Too tight. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it loose enough for the trolley to slide smoothly?
Hmm. I don’t know. I don’t know if they make a shallow version of uni strut and maybe you ended up with that? Or maybe you got an oversized trolley. It should fit right in.
I sent back the trolleys and ordered a different set. About $30 more, but they seem to fit perfectly. Another lesson in “ya get what ya pay for” 😅
Nice I’m planning a similar project in my garage. Where did you get that welding table it looks nice?
The table is from Menards. Pretty basic but works good enough for a weekend warrior like me.
Excellent !
Don’t forget to put some stops at the ends of the track
theres bolt sleaves to fill the void in your bolt holes
😮. Measure center line of wench ,,line up both bracket line up rollers ,,eye ,,,use angle IORN top of rollers with that
I bought one of these, too, but I can’t find the instructions to set it up for 880 pounds vs 440. I’m using mine for a large zero turn mower which is very close in weight to the minimum.
To get 880 you need to double the hook back to the frame of the winch and use the pulley/snatch block. Single line pull is 440
구독과 좋아요 눌리고 갑니다 멋져요 ^^ 굿 👍👍
love your setup. do you have information or link on the bar and hoist?
Good thing you didn’t attach this system to the bottom cord of the TGI or eye joist. They hold incredible weight on top, but the lower cord is Not designed to do the same. Tooo many people screw heavy items to the bottom of these joists, and it is a recipe for disaster.
Thanks for adding this information. I would not have thought of that.
Darwin Canidate. mild steel and lifting
Dam good point, most don’t think like that.
@@matthewmarzec5927
What exactly are you saying??
That this was a bad setup?
Long before any steel beams, massive loads were lifted with wood timbers. Think of all the old wooden sailing ships with the mast, booms ets.
This setup was done well for the loads taken, and the hoist would probably reach its max before the joists would.
Are there better designs out there? Sure, but I’ve seen a Lot scarier than this one.
If you have better design ideas, please let the OP know, otherwise Darwin references does not provide any help.
Nice video
Put a level on the track and shim it level so the track isn't a ski slope.
How do you lock the trolley assembly in place so it doesn't move along the unistrut while working on the hanging load?
That’s why I considered turning the trolley slightly. However not sure it will be an issue. When there’s a heavy load it doesn’t move near as easily. I’ll see soon when there’s a buck hanging from it next month!
Hi Adam, I would appreciate if you also had a link to where you bought the struct channel. I only need to lift like 200lbs
You should be able to get at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Ahead have gone under it and pretend like you were going to change the oil/ May have subbed
Did you drill a hole through the vertical span of your I Joist, the flange or next to the flange? It wasn't clear what you were doing.
Next to the flange. I have two I joists about an inch apart. The bolts runs vertically between the two joists.
Right on. I thought for a second you cut into the flange of the I-joist.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What welding table is that? Thanks.
It’s one I picked up from Menards
@@adamj8293 Thank you. It looks better than the harbor freight one and it’s all I would need. I’m a better grinder than I am a welder anyway. Never had a weld fail though.
Please report to your nearest OSHA office.
How much weight can the actual unistrut handle? Could you lift a moose?
Good question. I’m not exactly sure. What’s a moose carcass, up to 1,000 pounds? Probably could but not sure.
@@adamj8293 Thanks for the reply. Probably better to not risk it I guess.
Depends on the unsupported span between supports. There are charts on the net but a quick look shows 1600# for 24" span down to 850# for 48" and 420#s for 96"
Too low to be of much use. Move the trolley into the attic.
With all of your OCD, i am quite shocked to see that you ran your electric and receptacle drops in BX.
You also didn't bother to at least FIRE TAPE your drywall.... SMH
I love these comments. That’s a stand alone building full of gas and diesel cans, propane bottles, paint, wood and untold other flammables. Half of the walls are plywood. Fire tape on the ceiling is the least of my concerns if I ever have an issue out there!
Ok so I’m curious, what’s the issue with BX? I just used it on the 6x6 posts. The rest of the building is buried boxes with Romex. I thought it was a pretty good solution (still do).