Unleashing Power in Your Zero Turn Mower! Diagnosing and Fixing Loss of Power & Bogging Issues
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2023
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We uncover the secrets behind diagnosing and fixing the loss of power in your zero turn mower.
Is your once-mighty machine now sluggish, struggling, and leaving you frustrated? Common symptoms of this are bogging down when the blades are engaged, loss of power or low engine speed when cutting or going uphill, won't cut right or sounds like it is struggling.
Fear not! We've got you covered with step-by-step instructions, expert tips, and proven troubleshooting techniques that will unleash the untapped potential of your mower.
Watch as we dive deep into the heart of the issue, identifying common culprits such as clogged fuel lines, dirty air filters, faulty spark plugs, and more.
This comprehensive guide will empower you to reclaim the power and efficiency of your zero turn mower, ensuring that your lawn is beautifully manicured in no time. Get ready to revitalize your mowing experience and join those who have already transformed their machines with our tried-and-true methods.
See part two if you realized something different about the right cylinder!
• Part 2 Unleashing Powe...
The valve spacing is fully adjustable on these mowers. I speak about it being hydraulic in the video like most of the Kohler engines of this type but that is not correct. You can find the adjustment process at • Zero Turn Mower No Pow... if you are needing to adjust your valves
This is a Kawasaki FR691V engine on a Toro Timecutter Z5035 with model number 74376
Don't let power loss hold you back - it's time to reclaim the throne of mowing supremacy!
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#toro #kawasaki #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
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Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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My mower was surging. Checked EVERYTHING Spark, air, adjusted the throttle cable, cleaned the carb. I blew out the fuel line, and checked the fuel pump. Nothing I trouble shot worked. Because I was lazy I didn’t check the pick up tube or elbow. The last resort was to check the pickup tube and elbow. When I removed the elbow it was clogged. Cleaned it and at last my problem was solved. I wish I had seen this vid, it would have saved me so much time.
Only reason I put out these videos. I have been there and had all of these issues multiple times over the almost 20 years I have been doing this! Hopefully I can help someone and save them some money!
Thorough and excellent, as always! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks man, i have the same engine and this helps me to keep an eye on those kill wires.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
You put out some good videos! Thx
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Pardon me thought I’d mention that you do have adjustment there to set the valve clearance. Set your key on crankshaft to top dead center compression stroke with key facing piston 1 or 2 then loosen nut on side of rocker then rotate the bolt going through the rocker because it’s on like a lobe or cam like. As u rotate it the rock will move slightly up then back down while sliding a 0.006 th feeler gage until feeling a slight drag then tighten and done.
Good info! When I looked at it originally I thought they were hydraulic like the Kohler but they weren't. We have another video at th-cam.com/video/RiaiIbPsWkE/w-d-xo.html that shows the process on this engine. Thanks for watching!
Noticed right off the exhaust pipes were different in color so it has not been firing on the left side for a while. I use a heat infrared gun a candle, or crayon, to diagnose no firing on the cylinder. Old race car quick diagnoses. Thanks for you time doing a video.
Nice! Good tips! Thanks for watching!
I try to do a leak down test to decide the overall condition of the engine,
I just had a bad spark plug and first new bad plug in years
Was very surprised to 😂
It is never a bad idea to do at least a compression test and/or a leakdown test to gauge engine condition!
Theres definitely an adjustment on those rockers. Its a cam style adjustment. You loosen the nut holding the rocker to the rocker arm. As you turn the screw it increases or decreases the valve lash. Should be .004"-.006." While they do have hydraulic lifters, theres still adjustmente.
Definitely so
Seen it too where the little plastic tab that holds the choke linkage onto the carburetor had a crack in it... Was incredibly hard to track down.
Interesting! Thanks for watching and for sharing!
Hey Martin, how can you adjust the low idle on the carb on the FR651V? I was working on one and the choke was sticking I fixed that and it runs great under load and all. But now it wont run on low idle, it dies. How can I adjust that up?
Look at the throttle plate, at low speed it rests against a screw. You will want to turn this screw clockwise until it is at the speed you want it at
$3,500 for a head gasket on a lawnmower!! My sons SUV has a blown head gasket and the dealer wanted $3,500. I'm hopefully going to be finishing it today (I work for free).
Sounds a wee bit steep!!
Those valves on the Kawasaki fr691are adjustable and not hydraulic. You loosen the center nut and bolt on the rocker The spacer in between them has an off center hole that allows you to set the valves.
Good info! When I looked at it originally I thought they were hydraulic like the Kohler but they weren't. We have another video at th-cam.com/video/RiaiIbPsWkE/w-d-xo.html that shows the process on this engine. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair I thought the same at first on the one I worked on as well. I put it back together and had the same problem. Did some research and found they were adjustable. Great video!
Hi. 😊😊😊
How you doing?
Have a Husqavana Z254F Z/T that runs great. When engage PTO Engine dies Replace all Safety switch and engine still dies when engage PTO. Any Ideal of cause
Have you ruled out a safety issue or is it because the engine is killing itself? Easy to test by seeming if it will stay runningnwhile using some starting fluid in the intake when it starts to die. If it stays running longer St that point you know you have a fuel/air mixture issue, bad fuel or a carb issue
Would this fix my current issue of having the arms fully forward but struggling to go up hill once I start up the hill it’s alright but once I get almost to the top I have a loss of forward motion and struggles
It definitely could bog down under a full load on the hill but normally you will notice it if you are in thick grass or under a big load in different instances also
@@IndRepair I got about 2-4 cuts where it went up the hill no problem and the last 3-4 cuts it’s gradually slowed going up hill to where I’d have to push one arm further and kinda walk it up the hill I got a 50 inch Troy built with the 25hp Koehler
@@IndRepair when I bought the machine it had all new pulleys new tires sold rubber fronts new belts fresh fluids new new blades with about 192 hrs on it I think I just broke 200 hrs today after I cut my yard
Check your fuel filter, it could be dirt and could be a cheap fix before taking other steps . 1.99 fo me as it's running like it should.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
I’ve always checked the heat of both exhaust pipes. Do find any issues with unplugging one HT lead at a time with newer models?
Never an issue even on EFI versions, they always seem to try and adjust but can atleast make sure both will run independently
@@IndRepair thanks. I know it’s old school. Another was to take plug cap off a push mower. By hand spin the blades. If compression is good the blade will bounce back.
@@steveriggenbach90 Good tip!
What’s that t handle and spring driver calles? Or where can I get one?
I am not sure what exactly you are asking about?
Dude, you're up too early. It was running on the left cylinder.😳
Lmao 🤣 who would have thought it!! Wow that's embarrassing! Update to come!
This happening, a chipmunk coming out of a blower tube and high heat make for an interesting day!!
I did a Comp test and my #1 has 50 PSI and #2 is at 120.. Valve adjustment ?Valves ? bad Cam ? I think they has Comp release on both sides ?
Any Idea on what the compression should be ?
I would pull the low comp side valve cover and see what's going on may have a stuck valve or improper spacing. Inspect the valve movement/spacing and go from there. If you don't find any issues there the head gasket could be blown out, can check further with a leakdown tester if available, which would tell you where your losing the compression. Thanks for watching!
Did Valve adjust ment set to .005 on Both Valves. Leaks down fast. Oiled Cylinder NO Help..same same
You can't tell where the air is escaping? Should be able to hear/feel it pretty easily. All valves are moving properly?
Valves seem to be moving correctly. I do see that this model is supposed to have compression release. think I will Pull the Heads off and have a Look @@IndRepair
@@AP-514did you get it fixed up?
Would have been better to have replaceable rod insert than hyd lifters
When I looked at it originally I thought they were hydraulic like the Kohler but they weren't. We have another video at th-cam.com/video/RiaiIbPsWkE/w-d-xo.html that shows the process on this engine. Thanks for watching!
They are, he made a mistake not recognizing the rocker type. It has solid lifters and push rods. The lash adjustment threw him off as they're not center mounted like most engines. In some ways this is a better design kawi came up with years ago. No Torx bits to deal with on this type plus it removes the lash being effected from locking them down onto your filler gauge on the prior center mount type.
Uhhh... kawasaki valves are definitely adjustable... and easily at that
Definitely! See part two description and video where I mention this
Bro, I'm embarrassed for you. Those valves are fully adjustable with push rods, not hydraulic.
Maybe I missed something but I swear you chose the wrong side as being weak. It ran on the left side (from camera view) and when you removed the left side plug wire, installed the right side wire it didn't run implying the right side isn't firing or has an issue.
You didn't rotate the engine to TDC and check valve clearance.
Those valve rockers are on a cam offset bolt. You break them loose with a 10mm and then adjust the cam (not the internal cam) followed by tightening the other end at between 4 to 6 thousands.
Look man, I'm not flaming on ya as i know you're trying to help, but if you're going to make an instructional video teaching people, make sure you're familiar with the subject first.
You might consider deleting this video, I landed here because it's the exact model as mine and thought I'd check it out.
I'm only commenting out of concern for others that may be mislead.
Those rockers ARE adjustable guys. Set the lash to .004 - .006 and lock em down.
Thanks,, and i apologize if this reads in a bad way. I'm only trying to help as well.
Haha yes I absolutely showed the wrong side! I explain this a little in the follow up video linked in the description. I thought it was like a Kohler design with the hydraulic lifters and mis-spoke in this video. Checking out the valve spacing can be done without going to TDC as we were just making sure they were functioning properly not setting or checking them. I thought there was going to be a third video where I would speak on this but the customer chose not to do the full repair.
We also have a video at th-cam.com/video/RiaiIbPsWkE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G_m-4i9t2Cq79ko- on the valve adjustment process of an engine like this. All of the diagnostics and troubleshooting processes still hold and will work well to find an issue. Constructive criticism just makes everything we do better in the end! Thanks for watching and thanks for trying to help people with mentioning these things!
Thanks for talking about the cam being adjustable
Uhmmm You pulled coil wire off plug right side(engine starts and still same low power) it runs, reinstalled, then pulled left side coil wire off plug(engine would not start/run)....... that tells me problem is on the right side ?!?!?! because it doesn't run on right side piston, yet runs on left side piston....... anyway you didn't complete the left side repair to show it runs smoothly....... could have just insulated wire to stop the arching/shorting to coil pack.....just to prove your diagnosis... No ?? what am I missing ??
Haha! Right you are! You are just missing the description and follow up video. We are all only human my friend. Check it out and thanks for watching!
All good no worries, I thought I wasn't smoking anything......COol Thankx for the reply and video Take care@@IndRepair
You also!