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I started as a small engine guy. YES, gasoline has much less aromatics. I'm an old man now but we used to "fog" the engine out then drain the carb for storage. I'm convinced that old trick works best. Fuck the EPA et al,, they are criminals that don't gaf about your equipment. These days, most rubber parts are shit garbage quality. It might be best to stall it out with gas/oil mix, like in a dollar store spray bottle. Run some power steering/ trans oil mix might be better (chemical wise). The idea being to coat the crapy plastic rubber parts.
I've been shutting off the fuel and letting the engine run dry for about 50 years now, and you are 100% right. That and changing the oil at least once per season, and stuff runs for ever. Thank you for your informative videos.
Psssh I bought my snow blower a decade ago and have never changed the oil lol Yes yes I know I should, but I’ve got a plow truck and a skid steer so it really sees very very little use and is basically a garage ornament.
I just poo-pood her answer yet I am giving you an up-vote. Seems like a contradiction, but you both have valid points which I do not disagree with. My no-valve, new gas in the spring, run dry B 4 winter has worked for 40 years too. Is there a need to use some dry gas during the season? Maybe?
Hello. You mean run it till its dry and engine dies? Do you do that with 2 strokes? Because that will run lean for a while and i was always afraid to do that because i did not want to damage the entine.
@@HonzaZalabak you cannot damage the engine by Just shutting the fuel, unless you are revving It like hell or using It under heavy load, at idle the Little leaning when the fuel ends doesnt do anything
Don't run it dry unless you're putting it away for the year, there's several problems that can occur from running them dry one of which is the float can stick in the fully open position and the next time you turn the fuel on it'll flood and run out the overflow making a mess, if that does happen tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle a couple times that usually frees them up. Running them dry everytime you shut them off is unnecessary anyways, all you're doing is increasing the chances of several problems that can occur from doing it, the only advantage to running them dry is for long term storage to avoid things like the gas in small passages and jets turning to varnish and getting gummy, otherwise it's simply unnecessary and invites problems associated with running them dry, gaskets getting wet and drying out regularly can also cause issues, just leave the gas in it between mowings it won't hurt anything, they're designed to have gas in them, just not long term.
I'm an old (72-year-old) retired Army fellow. But, I like to learn. You seem to enjoy teaching. I stumbled around like a Blind Hog and found you on TH-cam and subscribed. I've been cutting grass for decades with lawn mowers without knowing what I needed to know about my equipment! Now, I have a chance after finding your channel. Thanks!
Great videos. It's a real pleasure to see a woman destroy stereotypes. I enjoy watching your knowledge and experience with small engines. Keep them coming.
I run non-alcohol gas, don't drain the carb, and start first pull on my old brigs and stratton after sitting for 5 months. Good fuel makes all the difference. The draining the tank and carb thing is a good practice, but it is only /needed/ for gasohol. Gasohol has a shelf life of 2 months sealed, and only a week in a fuel tank. Regular gas will last years (with a little stabil added).
Thank God you’re a real human being with an actual heart to help your fellow man/woman. Too many money grabbers creating chaos for the rest of us humans with souls.
Just before I watched this video, I bought a couple of these. I have been putting them on my mowers now for a couple of years. I use 2 per mower when I install them and install a Tee inline. What this does is it allows me to shut off the fuel and let the mower run the carburetor dry. It also gives me a place to easily drain the fuel at the end of the season without anything other than a can to catch it in. Since doing this I haven't had any fuel system issues of any kind and haven't had to worry about fuel running through the carburetor into the crankcase, where it would dilute my oil. How I have the connections in my setup made is, I cut into the main fuel line install the first shutoff in the line coming from the fuel tank. Then add small piece of fuel line add the Tee and plug up the fuel line from the carburetor to the other end of the Tee. On the last open end to the Tee, I add a small piece of fuel line then the 2nd shutoff and another longer piece of fuel line long enough to go into a catch container. In normal mode the drain shutoff is closed and the carburetor shutoff open for operation. Both will be closed when burning excess fuel from carburetor at shutdown. After engine stops, open the drain valve and leave the actual fuel shutoff closed. this allows the last bit of fuel in the line to the carburetor to drip out then close the drain valve. If draining the fuel tank for maintenance or end of season, just take drain line put in a fuel container and open both valves. Works great and saves a lot of issues with fuel lines, carburetor and fuel tank.
This young woman is big time honest and correct! Always shut fuel line off to kill engine for storage! It will save you money and much grief! I used to work for Sears in there lawnmower repair shop on North Shepheard in Houston, Texas. Most of all the repairs were from old gas, and water in the crankcase!
The 1953 firetruck in my avatar had an electric fuel pump installed which gets shut off prior to shutting down the 800cubic inch Wakesha engine. Running the carb empty prevents vapor lock in restarting a hot engine. Works winter, summer for us since 1976 and we have never been in the carb. Wonderful channel. Lots of knowledge presented in the understandable way.
I been using sta-bil and 91 chevron non ethanol gas, storing gas for a year in plastic cans its been total fine, never had any issues.. I used the fuel shut off trick on the generator, etc; it works great..
OUTSTANDING advice for your clientelle. Shows that you have strong ethics and morals. You are absolutely the type of mechanic more people should bring their equipment to. Its always better to give your customers little hints like this to help them save money on the "little things", which (as you and i both know), cause many unnecessary problems and more expensive repairs. This helps you concentrate on the more "legitimate", complex repairs, instead of the annoying ones that wouldn't happen if people would just learn what "operator maintenance" means, and how to do it. It seems to me that the main reason ANY customer gets mad at the repair shop is that when you tell them that what started out as a "simple" repair, has BALLOONED into an expensive, parts replacement nightmare, they are realizing that you are actually telling them that its THEIR FAULT (which it is, and they know it).
Great advice, Bre. I have these on all my lawn equipment and run them dry after each use. The reason for modern gas deteriorating rapidly and attracting moisture as you have shown, is ethanol. I use non-ethanol gas in all my small engines and never have that jellylike gunk in the carb bowls. Will also keep your fuel lines from deteriorating. In a modern car, no problem, but in small engines ethanol is a real problem.
I started putting ethanol neutralizer in my master supply for all my lawn and garden equipment 5 years ago, which I draw my gas for my 2 stroke equipment from, and all my ethanol related problems went away, I can even let my equipment sit all winter (my snowblower all summer) with fuel in them and just like in the days of ethanol free gas everything starts right up the next spring. I've got too much property to take care of with trimmers, mowers (push and riding), chainsaws and everything else to pay for that ridiculously high priced canned gas and there's only one station in my area that has ethanol free gas out of a pump and it's ridiculously expensive also. In the 5 years I've been doing it everything is just like years ago as far as how I store and take care of my equipment, and I don't have some kind of white jelly built up in anything like all kinds of people said I'd have according to the guy who has the channel Project Farm, I quit watching his videos years back because of huge flaws I saw in some of his supposed testing, last time on this channel that I mentioned using ethanol neutralizer I had all kinds of guy's screaming at me referencing a video of his claiming it'd cause some kind of white jelly in my fuel systems that'll clog them up in a short amount of time according to him, it's like I told them "5 years now and I don't have anything at all like that in ANY of my equipment, so apparently there's a serious flaw in the way he supposedly proved it".
@@beingthere597 Add water. Not kidding. Ethanol is hydrophilic. After settling, the water/ethanol will drop to the bottom. Then just siphon out one or the other. I don't know how much, but ethanol adds octane so you should probably get premium.
@@sansoucie1969 Fortunately, the premium grade at the local Walmart (Murphy Oil Co.) is non-ethanol. I just have to put the first gallon in my car, since there is probably 10% ethanol gas in the line from the last user.
@@dukecraig2402 I also saw problems with Project Farm videos and stopped watching. Too many people can't think for themselves and believe whatever anyone tells them.
This was a great tip! I would add that, when running the carb dry at the end of the season, shut the gas off, let it run, then as it starts to run rough, start adding in choke. Continue adding in choke to keep it running smoothly until it runs dry and quits at full choke. This will get you closer to a fully dry carburetor. You're now ready to start cold at next running. I've done this with a 15 year old Ariens snowblower since new, and have never had to do carburetor work on it.
Great additional tip. Because I just run it dry. But I will open the choke and let it run smooth then it can become even more dry. Sounds crazy but I understand.
I have been doing this for years and it does work!!!! In fact My dad used to use a turkey baster to remove the fuel from the tank as well at the end of the season. We never had problems from gas going bad.
I read in a flyers handbook decades ago, that as soon as light aircraft owners land back at their airport, it stressed the importance of filling the gas tank/s up again. This gets rid of the air inside the tank preventing water vapor in the air from finding its way into the fuel. I don't know if this applies to any other machines with much smaller tanks, but there you are. Cheers.
Boats! Always stop at the ethanol free pump at your marina slip/ boat ramp and top off the tank. Storing a boat with air in the tank, ESPECIALLY on water at a marina, is asking for an expensive bill.
That is standard advice in the large engine industry as well. Even the manual for my 1952 D4 bulldozer tells me to top up the tank after shutting down for the day.
Love her advice! I have used fuel stabilizer for 25 years anyway. Solved a lot of chainsaw problems. Also I too noticed the lack of fuel shutoffs and have added them to about everything. Makes draining the tank (for any reason) a bit easier.
A word of caution concerning shut-offs. There are two after-market valves commonly available, (in Oz, at least) one with a red tap & one with a yellow. I have learned, the hard way, that the yellow shut-offs don't flow as much fuel as the red ones. If your motor is larger than 17 - 18 horsepower & tends to be worked hard, make sure you use the shut-off with the RED tap. In most applications the difference may not be noticeable. But every now & then you might encounter a fuel supply issue under load. May your grass always be greener!
I agree, I have a red one on a 12hp mower, but no fuel filter. This year it would run for a few minutes then conk out. It was some junk partly blocking the hole in the shut off. I clean it out, and installed a fuel filter, running well again. I always use the fuel shut off, just in case the float ever decides to leak. I drain the tank each fall, then refill with new gas in the spring.
Better: fuel sediment bowl SEARCH Dump if you see water & fuel separation or all water, repeat until only fuel appears in bulb. remove carburetor bowl and dump that if sediment bulb was filled with water, drain a little fuel through the hose into the loose carburetor bowl to clear out water in that, then re-attach carburetor bowl. Warm air has a much higher water capacity than cooler air. For small engine, refill tank immediately after use to displace warm wet air. Small aircraft fuel tanks have a sump with a valve opened by fuel tester probe pin. 100LL has a blue dye that eventually stains the plastic fuel tester. You look for separation between clear water and blue gas. In my experience during preflight I checked by visual inspection after removing gas caps to see tanks were full. Then sumped Cessna 152 gas tanks, one each wing 12 gallon s, 24 gallons total. I always had some water, usually removed during first sump. Capacity of fuel tester probably 2.5 oz, so always 1 Oz or so of water. One time I sumped a tank 3 times and fuel tester was stained, I thought it must have been me. I went to the other tank and after the second sump I saw some fuel in the stained tester. I went back to the first tank and after a total of 5 full fuel testers finally saw some fuel. In my experience cold aircraft are not started before a preflight including sumping of tanks, so water in lines from tank is not a common issue. Per another comment, make sure whatever you use has sufficient flow capacity especially for larger engines.
Thanks, Cickanic! I am an eighty-year-young South African living in beautiful Cape Town. Fortunately, with our wonderful Mediterranean climate, we don't have to worry too much about water in our gardening and other tools. We call "gas" "petrol" in South Africa, and "gas" here is what you might call "propane". However, what you state about a fuel-cock to turn off the fuel is extremely important! I ride a 1982 Suzuki GS1000G shaft-drive motorcycle, and even after replacing the very expensive tap under the petrol tank, I continued having flooding problems in the four carburettors. Problem now is how to install a proper fuel cock which will solve the problem forever! I enjoy your passion for your work! Well done! Serving humankind is the most wonderful exercise in the world!
A local shop here would install these shut offs on every machine they worked on. It is amazing on the amount of time an money it has saved me with not having down equipment. Great vid!!!👍👍👍
Gas is more water than gas,cars now have a water drain hole in the muffler years ago water coming out of the exhaust meant a blown head gasket.we haven't had real has for yrs.petroleum is being used to make plastic
10yrs.ago I let a gallon of gas sit for 2months and it turned to plain water and put out a fire with it.and when put a shut off on your equipment you shut it off and run all fuel out and this does keep your carb From fouling up su quickly for sure.
Regarding your comment about sometimes not enough room for a shut off valve; I have addressed that by rerouting the fuel line, even if it means adding more. Adding that valve is the best thing i ever did for my small engines.
I agree, I’ve always “closed down” small motors by turning off the fuel. Other tips are: always clean your air filter; change the oil at least every 50 hours of use (shorter if it’s a 2 stroke); sharpen the blades of mowers regularly; sharpen the chain saw chains; keep the thing clean, you can spot problems before they get big; go over the nuts and bolts regularly (or use Loc title or lock nuts; hit the threads of bolts with oil or WD40 regularly, to stop rusting.
All good advice. Clean, sharpen and oil after you finish the job, not before you start the next one. As for changing 2 stroke oil without changing the fuel, add some degreaser? Pour the fuel back into the mixer bottle, shake it backwards and pour the oil off the top? I guess if you mixed 100 gallons of 1:25 when it should have been 1:40 you could freeze the oil out.
I've been teaching my son to shut off the fuel and run the piece of equipment dry if you don't know when you are going to use it next for a while now. So far he has done it and no repair bills to boot.
started using fuel shut offs about 10 years ago, saved me many a headache I believe. Love this channel helped me with so many problems not to mention money
Thank you for your videos! I'm in Darwin Australia, and I get something from each of your videos. I do most of my maintenance myself and love having a resource such as yourself to help.
All my equipment have the shut offs and they start each year for over 30 pass years. I use mystery oil in the fuel and in the engine oil. Works great with no problems for over 30 years! This is an old timers hack Im 80!
I have done this same practice all my adult life-since 1978. I now leave for the winter. Upon returning I never have issues. Fresh fuel, no fuel left in carburetor, no water, no problem.
Thanks for sharing Bre. I've been doing this for 50+ years. My equipment ALWAYS starts on the first pull or the click of the key. And....you're absolutely right about what we have to use that they call gasoline nowadays. It is definitely getting worse & worse. Keep up the good work. You are definitely helping a lot of people out with your channel.
LOVE THAT SHIRT! I added a fuel shutoff on my 2006 Snapper, after I found the crankcase full of gasoline. I close it and run it dry after every use. It cranks on the 3rd pull every time. Oh yeah, I took out the electrical starting system and all the safety crap too. It's been a great machine and still going strong 17 years later.
Just finished overhauling my Ryobi 725r trimmer that had been sitting for over 5 years. I had been told by Ace Hardware that fixing it would cost as much as a new one. Took it apart, cleaned it, replaced the carb and fuel lines, and good to go. Very satisfying. Thanks for your straightforward advice.
I met the owner of B3C Fuel Solutions a few years ago. I real passionate chemist and cool dude to talk to and learn. Started using their products and have not been disappointed. Also installed that exact manual shut off valve because solenoids fail. Love your content and passion for sharing!
Not only adding the shutoff it also makes it easier to empty the tank for storage or just for working on the engine or machine if you have to. Thanks for the tip and great video!
Great video! It's something I probably wouldn't have thought of. Fortunately, everything I own has a shut off valve. One thing I'd like to mention, and it's a bit unorthodox; I don't use fuel stabilizers but every spring I add a little bit of acetone to the fuel. It absorbs moisture and, being a great solvent, removes any varnish that may have built up. I've been doing this for years and I've never had a problem. I even use it in my gas fueled cars to keep the injectors clean. I use about 1 gallon of acetone per 25 gallons of gasoline (about 4% mixture).
Hi Bre. I bought 2 of the weed watcher replacement heads I saw your video on. Boy we’re they easy to install . I also adapted them with aunt and washers to bump the head on to save the plastic head that was a 10 minute job. Thanks again for all the good advice your giving everyone
I too have been adding a fuel shut off on all lawn mowers I work on because of just what you have shown ! Thank you for the great information you give , love watching them!
We live eastern Canada and after starting to use high test gas in everything (non ethanol which is the problem) never had a problem since with starting or storing..etc. and occasionally ad some gas line antifreeze to get rid of water from condensation .
Just found your channel and enjoyed this video. I only started working on outdoor power equipment a few years ago for my stuff/friends & family and I thought it odd that I was seeing equipment without fuel shutoff +/- fuel filters. I thought it was only about running a carb dry, imagine my surprise to learn I was inadvertently also saving engines from a world of hurt! Thanks for taking me to school- Greetings from Ontario, Canada!
I ran a boat tour business in Maine for 25 years using a variety of 90 hp outboard engines…both 2 stroke and 4 stroke. I was meticulous about fueling the boat and made sure that old fuel did not accumulate in the tank. One day I bought 10 gals of gas at the local gas station and set off on a tour. One mile from the dock my engine quit and I had to be towed back. I got a glass jar, removed the end of the fuel pickup hose from the engine and pumped a half quart of fuel into the jar. It was pure water! I then had to spend several hours totally emptying my 27 gallon tank by squeezing the fuel line primer bulb. Worse yet after paying $2 a gallon to have the fuel reconditioned by the outboard dealer I was told I could not use it in my boat but had to add it by the half gallon when I filled up my pickup truck fuel tank. Not long afterwards I spent $25 for a special water separating fuel funnel that lets gas through but not water. Best $25 I have ever spent!
If you use ethanol gas you won't have that problem. I've had water separators on boats for years and they work. Once ethanol in gas became a thing no need for the separators any more.
Have a 20 yo Honda push mower and have never had an issue with water in my gas. I use the shut off valve but never knew how important it was. Thank you!
Had a bunch of fuel go bad this year in Jerry cans and in bikes tanks. Some of the "fresh" regular gas I've gotten doesn't pass the sniff test, couple months in a can and you can pour a cup and ask anyone and they'll guess paint or lacquer, I'm amazed my van runs on that crap, but you gotta travel to next town and pay another buck a gallon for no cornsyrup gas. I'll use regular sometimes if I'm sure I'll run it all through mower immediately. Anyhow, glad to find this Chanel! Cool community and content.
Great tip! Ethanol has caused me so much grief with my lawn equipment over the years, and I had cursed, repaired or replaced several lawn tools due to hard starting and poor performance. Until I was enlightened about using premium (zero ethanol) gasoline and instantly all troubles just disappeared. The premium gasoline is more expensive, but honestly the time and frustration it saves is worth it. Also while it may seem wasteful, running the tool dry helps a lot in preventing hard starts after long storage.
Randy, not all "premium" gasoline is ethanol free. Be sure to check the pump labels or better still ask the station attendant if their premium grade gas is actually ethanol free. Premium, regular, etc. normally relates to octane ratings.
Treat your fuel with Stabil 360 even though the fuel will not be sitting very long. 360 has additives to counter the ethanol issue. I have used it for many years and all of the issues I had in the past have disappeared.
Thank you for the advice to install a fuel shutoff on mower or other gas-powered tool fuel lines. I try to keep my motorcycle gas tanks full, same with mowers, and have never had the moisture invasion problem. We're talking a half-century of doing that. My thought is that an empty or partly empty tank will inhale air as it cools off (nighttime, when the dew point drops and air takes up less volume) and exhale during the day as the air or vapor in the tank warms up. I believe that the more full I keep the tanks, the less "breathing" they will do every day. Never seen rust in any of my tanks yet. (I'm in my 70s now, still ride 3 motorcycles, have 2 gas mowers, a rider and a push, and the push is 30 years old.) Happy mower using, y'all!
I learned more about carbourators in this video then I did in a semester in vo-ag tearing down a small engine! Or maybe it just makes more sense because I'm the one paying when things go wrong! Thanks for this great tip.
Yes, I put a shut off on my mowers but also a filter as well. Mow the lawn, dirt and everything else goes flying in the air, covers the mower, especially around the filler cap, and dirt goes in and doesn't come out, and clogs the needle. Now, no more clogs. So I recommend both, especially when you have to work on it.
Good advice, indeed. I bought a new snowblower recently, and was shocked to find it had no fuel cutoff valve. Very annoying, and there's no room to install one. Also, when it comes to the fuel itself, I go to the local airport and buy 5 or 6 gallons of 100LL avgas- no alcohol. I treat it with Sta-bil right away, and use it on ALL of my small engines.
@@DblIre I have heard that- and I have had some experience with old leaded automotive gas going back many years (the gas, that is) that was still quite usable, but I am a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy.
I put a shut-off between the tank and carb. I had my crankcase fill with gas once on one of my riders. My wife happens to work at a small engine shop in sales. I got her the info of the engine and had her order the carb. Installed it and added the manuel shut off. No problems since. (4 years)
On three separate occasions I have come to my commercial Walker Mower and found the fuel had drained into the crank case. I mean complete hydro-lock. I contacted Walker and they were great. They asked if I'd purchased my Walker second hand, which I had. They asked if the previous owner had shown me where the fuel shutoff valve was. He had not. LOL. Lesson learned. On the plus side, you won't find a cleaner crank case anywhere!
Yeah, the water starts at the gas station inside the tanks below ground. It's usually due to rainfall. Years ago, I used to go around removing that water from various gas stations throughout the day. It's a fairly simple process. We used a very long steel pipe that would touch the bottom of the tank and syphon from there. Probably the same process in your gas can, I suppose. But if the station is putting water in your gas, that probably means (in most cases, anyway) they're too cheap to pay for this regular maintenance. I recommend not using them in the future to get your gas.
If a fuel supply tanker has just filled, or is filling the station's tank, avoid that station for a while. The water in the bottom of the tank can be churned up during the tanker's filling process and allow "bottom water" to be pumped into YOUR tank along with the fuel you are expecting.
@@oleran4569 Well, that would likely depend on how deep their pumping hoses/pipes reach down into the tank. If it's reaching toward the bottom, that would be moot, as the water is heavier than the fuel.
Great advice! I do this always, and I also added T-fittings and another valve to make draining old gas easy. When something won't start or run, the FIRST thing to do is use fresh gas.
When I bought an off brand replacment carb for my lawn vac they included a fuel shutoff. Just the other day I said I have to put that on. Works great, the thing starts better than when it was new.
I agree 100 % ! Anyone using a low use gas power tool like a rototiller, dethatcher, generator, ETC needs to pay special attention to this advice ! Anyone buying non ethanol fuel at Murrrys near a Walmart needs to first dump some into the vehicle to flush out the line. At least 99 % of the gas powered tools I've picked up on the side of the road, had been to me had a simple fuel issue. Then Toro comes up with the bright idea the oil never needs changing in their ads. What better way to have them fail and have to buy another mower !
You can buy water finding paste to check for water in your fuel. We use it all the time at work for checking fuel station tanks for water. You just spread it thin on a stick and it will turn colour on contact with water instantly. They make it for regular gas and ethanol blends, some do both. (the ethanol essentially coats the water so the regular paste won't detect it all the time)
Makes more sense now why I’ve seen rust form inside the float bowl before. I have a Honda walk behind and never use the fuel shutoff that it came equipped with 🙄 maybe I’ll start 😁 thanks for the helpful video!! 🤟
Thanks Bre. Great information. For the last 15 yrs, I've always use premium / non-ethanal gas and a marine grade fuel stabalizer for ethanol mixed gas. I've also installed inline shutoff on most of my equipment. ( more for no fuel mess when dismantling equipment) though, now that I think about it, when I put whatever equipment it is , to bed for the winter, I do run them out of fuel by useing the shutoff ang running them dry. I guess I've took your advice already.
I’ve used sta-bil for decades and it works. I have also worked on small engines for decades and I will say 90 plus percent of small engine problems are bad old fuel.
I agree, great channel, learn plenty here. Canadian beer drinker has Ytube channel? Have a link? I don't drink beer when grass cutting lol, cheers to those who do!
Great video! Ethanol in fuel is a total menace isn't it? Not only is it hygroscopic but it destroys so many rubber parts. Even with a fuel tap, the tank will breath with the temperature cycling and pull moisture in. My favourite mistake is thinking I'll use the thing once more and so not drain it and then forget until the next year.
Love ya girlie !! I’m an ATV & Small Engine mechanic and when I’m stumped I always look at your videos and you help me out- so thanks ❤keep being awesome!!
I have a lawncare business I change oil a little ahead of recommended schedule and for off season storage I add seafoam and fuel stabilizer run all equipment dry , this storage and maintenance process allows insures my equipment runs for many yrs . My Ole saying is what you do at end of season depends on how you start next season.
Great addition for units which I find myself trying to empty of fuel each autumn. Word of advice for all: Do not use ethanol in your small engines if you can avoid it. I use only high-octane REC fuel, 0% ethanol 👍
Thank you posting these videos!! I have learned SO MUCH!! We have so many broken down equipment here and usually end up replacing everything. You have given me the confidence to break out my toolbox and tackle them one by one!!! My husband is not a "fixer"...😂😂😂. So, keep up the good work!!!
Why is it your husbands job at all? Why even mention him. If a man did the same thing abiut a cooking and his wife all you fruit cakes would call it mysonagist.
Great tip for those who don't know👍🏻 all my riding mowers/garden tractors have a fuel shutoff valve. If they didn't come with one, I installed one within the first month of owning it! As you said, if you'll use it. My elderly neighbor bought a 1 year old crapsman rider 14 years ago when it had 6 hours on it. Still has under 30 hours on it this year. Anyway, almost every year I have to clean its carb. (She'll use it once or twice and let it sit the next 10 months with gas in it) about 8 years ago its nikki carb was corroded beyond cleaning, and when I replaced the carb, I installed a shutoff valve. She used the shutoff valve properly that first year and never since🤬 oh well... I tried🤷♂️😅
5:30 gas experiment- the process of evaporation causes cooling which causes moisture in the air to condense, much like a cold drink will have moisture condense on it. Important to keep fuel containers sealed and have working vents on your equipment. I agree, all manufacturers should have a shutoff on their products. My oldest engine, a 1956 Briggs HAS a shutoff on the tank. Still runs like a champ. Enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from you. Many thanks!
I had a John Deere L111 that just happened to have the only japanese-made carburetor. The solenoid went bad and I priced them at $60 so I said nope and I proceeded to find a bolt that would fit that hole that was short enough and of course with a petroleum resistant gasket. I then got a $5 shutoff valve and with 2 adjustable hose clamps I cut the fuel line in half and installed the shut-off switch. When I got done mowing I would turn the shut-off switch to off and allow the engine to die then turn the key off. It worked great was cheap and easy to install.
Just started watching your videos. Great lessons. No longer afraid to repair small engines. Keep up the great work. Your a great teacher. Robert Kuschel 😊
While for routine use Honda fuel shut off is convenient, but if you want to clean jets you often have to remove the carburetor! Now what do you do? Plastic deck you can’t easily remove the jet and aeration tube. Separate shut off in line is best solution I think so completely agree with Chickanic.
I have a 7 year old, Walmart MTD 21” w the Briggs 550 engine I believe. Oil each fall, new plug and fresh air filter and fuel. Touch up the blades or replace when needed. It just works.
Great video by the way, and your suggestion is spot on! As opposed to using fuel additives, I found using Chevron or Texaco with Techron is all the fuel with additive I have ever needed. The other thing is I only run Premium in my small engines which seems to help them during the hot summer months when pre-detonation is more of a problem. I have literally gone for decades and all my stuff starts the first pull, or second time once I remember to turn the full on. Lol! I just subscribed to your channel, look forward to more smart tips! Thanks!
I have never ever had a problem with any of my power equipment having pre detonation issues. Premium fuel is never needed unless you are stripping the alcohol out of it.
The best approach is to use non ethanol gasoline. Add some StaBil Storage and you'll never have a problem with water from the atmosphere being absorbed into the fuel. Fuel shutoff is a great addition.
You couldn't be more wrong. Water gets in your tank through condensation, the fuller the tank, the less air gets in and so less water. Ethanol in your gas will absorb water and harmlessly burn it off in your combustion chamber. If you use straight gas the water will sit in your tank. Ethanol cannot suck water out of the air (despite what it may say on Wikipedia).
The new Champion generator we just got has the engine kill switch and fuel shut off married together, so killing the engine shuts the fuel off at the same time. Makes it tough to run the carb dry for storage though, but still an improvement in design.
I recently bought a used Honda mower with Honda engine because that is what everyone recommended. Now, let me preface-I usually do my swaps at the Police station as they have a designated are for just that!! But not big enough for a mower so we met in a parking lot. So he takes out of his truck, shows me everything and it all works well. So, I get it home and I immediately have a problem!! I get about 20-25 feet and it starts doing this rev up and rev back down (repeat repeat repeat). So I try the old fashioned trick of holding the front of the mower in the air hoping that it will just work itself out and go back to normal. NOPE. Now i have the mower wheels set to the highest setting (5) and it set to bag. Still does this over and over again. So I jump on the net and find that fuel thing -a-mig-diggy. Of course it was set to straight up. The wrong setting. So I turn it so that it is flat. IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING!!! Will buying a new one of these fix the problem and how hard is that to replace because I'm more of a computer guy than a mechanical guy..... :) And thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
The valve should be set inline with the fuel line. That is the open position. From what you are describing, I’d recommend definitely changing your air filter. If you’re doing that, might as well do the spark plug as well. Make sure you have new non ethanol gas. If you still have an issue, it’s probably something in your carburetor. I’m not a small engine mechanic. But I am a handyman who maintains a bunch of equipment.
Thanks for the info. It's extremely refreshing to see a woman's face that hasn't been painted with clown makeup! It must be nice not having to remove your face before bed. ....
I put a shut off and a filter on my troy bilt tiller they day it arrived in March of 1979. It has the 7hp K series Kohler engine. I have put three 11 sets of tines. Replaced drive belt and tires. The engine I changed the oil three times per year , air filter and spark plug as needed, and fuel tank because of a rust hole. Everything else is still good. Never have had to open the carburetor open.
I pulled my mower out of the shed after sitting for several years.(been down with health issues). By watching your videos(and a couple others) was able to get my 6.75 B&S started and running perfectly. I know I'm a little late to the party here but also added this fuel shut off valve so I will never have to deal with the issues again. Thanks for what you do!!!
Over the last 5 years I can hardly believe how many riding mowers that have hydrolocked or quit running at first of season use due to water in the fuel just from sitting with fuel in them for months and not having a fuel shut off outer than the one on the bottle of the bowl that hangs up from crappy fuel deposits. Thanks for your great videos and the reminders of the horrible fuel we are getting.
My old Troy Bill filled the oil with gas. I pulled and cleaned the carb, fuel tank, changed oil 3x in an hour, and put a fuel cut off on it. EXACTLY what you just covered. Great advice.
You're the 1st person to mention the gas issue I've been trying to tell ppl about. Almost every vehicle smells like it needs a tuneup or something including my new truck 👍🏾
I installed a gas shut off on my Toro Super Recycler three weeks ago now it starts on the first pull before it was two or three pulls. Well worth the $7.00 part !!!
You are one sharp cookie, I know about ten percent of what you do! The best automatic transmission mechanic I know is a lady, I also know one that can not only build you a house she’ll build you a. neighborhood. Thanks for the education and have a great day.
Good useful info, thanks! Yup, water is everywhere, especially in air! Every time you start and warm up an engine, the crankcase exhales the old air in there. Then when it cools down it takes a deep breath of fresh moist air. Soon, you have a water-oil emulsion. That's how it works. As for gasoline, drain the tank empty if it will set more than 30 days. Most engines perform poorly if at-all with old gasoline. Even Honda!
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
@Chickanic Is the Ethanol Shield different from the STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer?
I started as a small engine guy. YES, gasoline has much less aromatics. I'm an old man now but we used to "fog" the engine out then drain the carb for storage. I'm convinced that old trick works best. Fuck the EPA et al,, they are criminals that don't gaf about your equipment.
These days, most rubber parts are shit garbage quality. It might be best to stall it out with gas/oil mix, like in a dollar store spray bottle.
Run some power steering/ trans oil mix might be better (chemical wise). The idea being to coat the crapy plastic rubber parts.
I've been shutting off the fuel and letting the engine run dry for about 50 years now, and you are 100% right. That and changing the oil at least once per season, and stuff runs for ever. Thank you for your informative videos.
Psssh I bought my snow blower a decade ago and have never changed the oil lol
Yes yes I know I should, but I’ve got a plow truck and a skid steer so it really sees very very little use and is basically a garage ornament.
@@jaydunbar7538 Just lucky
This is great info.
I just poo-pood her answer yet I am giving you an up-vote. Seems like a contradiction, but you both have valid points which I do not disagree with. My no-valve, new gas in the spring, run dry B 4 winter has worked for 40 years too. Is there a need to use some dry gas during the season? Maybe?
Hey i wanted u to know out o alll lawn mowers and smalk engine chanbels i ve seen !!Way better than guys by fdd
55 yr old son of a mechanic and never heard of this hack. THANK YOU!
I shut the fuel off and run the carb every time. No problems in 5 years since I started doing it. Great tip.
Hello. You mean run it till its dry and engine dies? Do you do that with 2 strokes? Because that will run lean for a while and i was always afraid to do that because i did not want to damage the entine.
@@HonzaZalabak you cannot damage the engine by Just shutting the fuel, unless you are revving It like hell or using It under heavy load, at idle the Little leaning when the fuel ends doesnt do anything
@@gillespriod5509 i thought that because somewhere I read that you shold not run yoirch chainsaw completly dry because of this
Don't run it dry unless you're putting it away for the year, there's several problems that can occur from running them dry one of which is the float can stick in the fully open position and the next time you turn the fuel on it'll flood and run out the overflow making a mess, if that does happen tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle a couple times that usually frees them up.
Running them dry everytime you shut them off is unnecessary anyways, all you're doing is increasing the chances of several problems that can occur from doing it, the only advantage to running them dry is for long term storage to avoid things like the gas in small passages and jets turning to varnish and getting gummy, otherwise it's simply unnecessary and invites problems associated with running them dry, gaskets getting wet and drying out regularly can also cause issues, just leave the gas in it between mowings it won't hurt anything, they're designed to have gas in them, just not long term.
@@dukecraig2402 thank you for this information. Makes sence.
I'm an old (72-year-old) retired Army fellow. But, I like to learn. You seem to enjoy teaching. I stumbled around like a Blind Hog and found you on TH-cam and subscribed. I've been cutting grass for decades with lawn mowers without knowing what I needed to know about my equipment! Now, I have a chance after finding your channel. Thanks!
Great videos. It's a real pleasure to see a woman destroy stereotypes.
I enjoy watching your knowledge and experience with small engines.
Keep them coming.
Good for you, when you get done praising her you can get fitted for a nice apro
So you admit the stereotypes are correct? You do understand how stereotypes work right?
I prefer when a man destroys stereotypes. But each to their own.
I always run non-ethanol gas, drain the tank at the end of the season and run the carb dry. Thanks for another great video!
Me too!
Dallas Ft Worth area has no ethanol free gas station; criminals. I have to travel out of that counties to buy real gas.
@PDB Long QuikTrip has zero ethanol in the DFW area.
Bucee’s in Denton also carries E0.
I run non-alcohol gas, don't drain the carb, and start first pull on my old brigs and stratton after sitting for 5 months. Good fuel makes all the difference.
The draining the tank and carb thing is a good practice, but it is only /needed/ for gasohol. Gasohol has a shelf life of 2 months sealed, and only a week in a fuel tank. Regular gas will last years (with a little stabil added).
Thank God you’re a real human being with an actual heart to help your fellow man/woman. Too many money grabbers creating chaos for the rest of us humans with souls.
Easy now - pretty girls tend to be a bit heartless
Just before I watched this video, I bought a couple of these. I have been putting them on my mowers now for a couple of years. I use 2 per mower when I install them and install a Tee inline. What this does is it allows me to shut off the fuel and let the mower run the carburetor dry. It also gives me a place to easily drain the fuel at the end of the season without anything other than a can to catch it in. Since doing this I haven't had any fuel system issues of any kind and haven't had to worry about fuel running through the carburetor into the crankcase, where it would dilute my oil. How I have the connections in my setup made is, I cut into the main fuel line install the first shutoff in the line coming from the fuel tank. Then add small piece of fuel line add the Tee and plug up the fuel line from the carburetor to the other end of the Tee. On the last open end to the Tee, I add a small piece of fuel line then the 2nd shutoff and another longer piece of fuel line long enough to go into a catch container. In normal mode the drain shutoff is closed and the carburetor shutoff open for operation. Both will be closed when burning excess fuel from carburetor at shutdown. After engine stops, open the drain valve and leave the actual fuel shutoff closed. this allows the last bit of fuel in the line to the carburetor to drip out then close the drain valve. If draining the fuel tank for maintenance or end of season, just take drain line put in a fuel container and open both valves. Works great and saves a lot of issues with fuel lines, carburetor and fuel tank.
This young woman is big time honest and correct! Always shut fuel line off to kill engine for storage! It will save you money and much grief! I used to work for Sears in there lawnmower repair shop on North Shepheard in Houston, Texas. Most of all the repairs were from old gas, and water in the crankcase!
I have been operating small engines for 40 years, She is dead on.
The 1953 firetruck in my avatar had an electric fuel pump installed which gets shut off prior to shutting down the 800cubic inch Wakesha engine. Running the carb empty prevents vapor lock in restarting a hot engine. Works winter, summer for us since 1976 and we have never been in the carb.
Wonderful channel. Lots of knowledge presented in the understandable way.
I been using sta-bil and 91 chevron non ethanol gas, storing gas for a year in plastic cans its been total fine, never had any issues.. I used the fuel shut off trick on the generator, etc; it works great..
Thanks so very much Bre, for all your hard work and help to us, you re dearly appreciated ! ❤
Aw! Thanks Buddy!!
Good advice, I'm 70 and have been repairing small engines since early 1960s. I like the videos. They will help a lot of people.
OUTSTANDING advice for your clientelle. Shows that you have strong ethics and morals. You are absolutely the type of mechanic more people should bring their equipment to. Its always better to give your customers little hints like this to help them save money on the "little things", which (as you and i both know), cause many unnecessary problems and more expensive repairs. This helps you concentrate on the more "legitimate", complex repairs, instead of the annoying ones that wouldn't happen if people would just learn what "operator maintenance" means, and how to do it.
It seems to me that the main reason ANY customer gets mad at the repair shop is that when you tell them that what started out as a "simple" repair, has BALLOONED into an expensive, parts replacement nightmare, they are realizing that you are actually telling them that its THEIR FAULT (which it is, and they know it).
@@charliepatterson9321no friggin way would I give my doctor permission to do as he feels is necessary without my knowledge . Thats just sheer lunacy!
Great advice, Bre. I have these on all my lawn equipment and run them dry after each use. The reason for modern gas deteriorating rapidly and attracting moisture as you have shown, is ethanol. I use non-ethanol gas in all my small engines and never have that jellylike gunk in the carb bowls. Will also keep your fuel lines from deteriorating. In a modern car, no problem, but in small engines ethanol is a real problem.
I started putting ethanol neutralizer in my master supply for all my lawn and garden equipment 5 years ago, which I draw my gas for my 2 stroke equipment from, and all my ethanol related problems went away, I can even let my equipment sit all winter (my snowblower all summer) with fuel in them and just like in the days of ethanol free gas everything starts right up the next spring.
I've got too much property to take care of with trimmers, mowers (push and riding), chainsaws and everything else to pay for that ridiculously high priced canned gas and there's only one station in my area that has ethanol free gas out of a pump and it's ridiculously expensive also.
In the 5 years I've been doing it everything is just like years ago as far as how I store and take care of my equipment, and I don't have some kind of white jelly built up in anything like all kinds of people said I'd have according to the guy who has the channel Project Farm, I quit watching his videos years back because of huge flaws I saw in some of his supposed testing, last time on this channel that I mentioned using ethanol neutralizer I had all kinds of guy's screaming at me referencing a video of his claiming it'd cause some kind of white jelly in my fuel systems that'll clog them up in a short amount of time according to him, it's like I told them "5 years now and I don't have anything at all like that in ANY of my equipment, so apparently there's a serious flaw in the way he supposedly proved it".
@@dukecraig2402 What do you use to neutralize ethanol?
@@beingthere597 Add water. Not kidding. Ethanol is hydrophilic. After settling, the water/ethanol will drop to the bottom. Then just siphon out one or the other.
I don't know how much, but ethanol adds octane so you should probably get premium.
@@sansoucie1969 Fortunately, the premium grade at the local Walmart (Murphy Oil Co.) is non-ethanol. I just have to put the first gallon in my car, since there is probably 10% ethanol gas in the line from the last user.
@@dukecraig2402 I also saw problems with Project Farm videos and stopped watching. Too many people can't think for themselves and believe whatever anyone tells them.
After 32 years as a small engine shop owner your advice is sound..spot on!
This was a great tip! I would add that, when running the carb dry at the end of the season, shut the gas off, let it run, then as it starts to run rough, start adding in choke. Continue adding in choke to keep it running smoothly until it runs dry and quits at full choke. This will get you closer to a fully dry carburetor. You're now ready to start cold at next running. I've done this with a 15 year old Ariens snowblower since new, and have never had to do carburetor work on it.
Agreed
Great tip!
When its so dry it won't run anymore, I spray the air filter with quick-start, and the extra 10 or 15 secs of running sucks the bowl dry.
I have a new Ariens snowblower and just run it dry then drain the bowl through the plug at the bottom.
Great additional tip. Because I just run it dry. But I will open the choke and let it run smooth then it can become even more dry. Sounds crazy but I understand.
I have been doing this for years and it does work!!!! In fact My dad used to use a turkey baster to remove the fuel from the tank as well at the end of the season. We never had problems from gas going bad.
I"ve been installing shut offs for years also,eliminates 75% of problems.Great info for those who don"t know.Keep up the good work!
I read in a flyers handbook decades ago, that as soon as light aircraft owners land back at their airport, it stressed the importance of filling the gas tank/s up again. This gets rid of the air inside the tank preventing water vapor in the air from finding its way into the fuel. I don't know if this applies to any other machines with much smaller tanks, but there you are. Cheers.
Boats! Always stop at the ethanol free pump at your marina slip/ boat ramp and top off the tank. Storing a boat with air in the tank, ESPECIALLY on water at a marina, is asking for an expensive bill.
Float/needle seat/ gasket. Simple stuff that does wonders.
It just removes the air so that condensation isn't an issue, as mentioned it often an issue on boats.
I've done the fill up on my cars in winter for 45 yrs. On the advice of a pair of old school mechanics.
That is standard advice in the large engine industry as well. Even the manual for my 1952 D4 bulldozer tells me to top up the tank after shutting down for the day.
Love her advice! I have used fuel stabilizer for 25 years anyway. Solved a lot of chainsaw problems. Also I too noticed the lack of fuel shutoffs and have added them to about everything. Makes draining the tank (for any reason) a bit easier.
Just for that reason alone it is worth adding, you’d think they would just make it standard, ya know the brilliant engineers!
@@iloveitUbet What, Make Things Better lol
This lady knows her stuff.
A word of caution concerning shut-offs. There are two after-market valves commonly available, (in Oz, at least) one with a red tap & one with a yellow. I have learned, the hard way, that the yellow shut-offs don't flow as much fuel as the red ones. If your motor is larger than 17 - 18 horsepower & tends to be worked hard, make sure you use the shut-off with the RED tap. In most applications the difference may not be noticeable. But every now & then you might encounter a fuel supply issue under load. May your grass always be greener!
Sweet !
I agree, I have a red one on a 12hp mower, but no fuel filter. This year it would run for a few minutes then conk out. It was some junk partly blocking the hole in the shut off. I clean it out, and installed a fuel filter, running well again. I always use the fuel shut off, just in case the float ever decides to leak. I drain the tank each fall, then refill with new gas in the spring.
Better:
fuel sediment bowl SEARCH
Dump if you see water & fuel separation or all water, repeat until only fuel appears in bulb.
remove carburetor bowl and dump that if sediment bulb was filled with water, drain a little fuel through the hose into the loose carburetor bowl to clear out water in that, then re-attach carburetor bowl.
Warm air has a much higher water capacity than cooler air.
For small engine, refill tank immediately after use to displace warm wet air.
Small aircraft fuel tanks have a sump with a valve opened by fuel tester probe pin. 100LL has a blue dye that eventually stains the plastic fuel tester. You look for separation between clear water and blue gas. In my experience during preflight I checked by visual inspection after removing gas caps to see tanks were full. Then sumped Cessna 152 gas tanks, one each wing 12 gallon s, 24 gallons total. I always had some water, usually removed during first sump. Capacity of fuel tester probably 2.5 oz, so always 1 Oz or so of water. One time I sumped a tank 3 times and fuel tester was stained, I thought it must have been me. I went to the other tank and after the second sump I saw some fuel in the stained tester. I went back to the first tank and after a total of 5 full fuel testers finally saw some fuel. In my experience cold aircraft are not started before a preflight including sumping of tanks, so water in lines from tank is not a common issue.
Per another comment, make sure whatever you use has sufficient flow capacity especially for larger engines.
I discovered your videos a week or two ago and loved them. I'm a 69-year-old do-it-yourself chick. It’s just the way I was raised.
Thanks, Cickanic! I am an eighty-year-young South African living in beautiful Cape Town. Fortunately, with our wonderful Mediterranean climate, we don't have to worry too much about water in our gardening and other tools. We call "gas" "petrol" in South Africa, and "gas" here is what you might call "propane". However, what you state about a fuel-cock to turn off the fuel is extremely important! I ride a 1982 Suzuki GS1000G shaft-drive motorcycle, and even after replacing the very expensive tap under the petrol tank, I continued having flooding problems in the four carburettors. Problem now is how to install a proper fuel cock which will solve the problem forever! I enjoy your passion for your work! Well done! Serving humankind is the most wonderful exercise in the world!
A local shop here would install these shut offs on every machine they worked on. It is amazing on the amount of time an money it has saved me with not having down equipment. Great vid!!!👍👍👍
Thats Exactly what the Manufactures think .. Save Money . Hence you dont get these little additions .
Gas is more water than gas,cars now have a water drain hole in the muffler years ago water coming out of the exhaust meant a blown head gasket.we haven't had real has for yrs.petroleum is being used to make plastic
10yrs.ago I let a gallon of gas sit for 2months and it turned to plain water and put out a fire with it.and when put a shut off on your equipment you shut it off and run all fuel out and this does keep your carb
From fouling up su quickly for sure.
@@larrygooch62332 months???Surely you mean 2 years.
Good shop
Regarding your comment about sometimes not enough room for a shut off valve; I have addressed that by rerouting the fuel line, even if it means adding more. Adding that valve is the best thing i ever did for my small engines.
I agree, I’ve always “closed down” small motors by turning off the fuel. Other tips are: always clean your air filter; change the oil at least every 50 hours of use (shorter if it’s a 2 stroke); sharpen the blades of mowers regularly; sharpen the chain saw chains; keep the thing clean, you can spot problems before they get big; go over the nuts and bolts regularly (or use Loc title or lock nuts; hit the threads of bolts with oil or WD40 regularly, to stop rusting.
How do you change oil on a 2 stroke
@Philadelphia19147 I change the oil on my 2 stroke engines every time I fill the fuel tank. 😊
All good advice. Clean, sharpen and oil after you finish the job, not before you start the next one.
As for changing 2 stroke oil without changing the fuel, add some degreaser? Pour the fuel back into the mixer bottle, shake it backwards and pour the oil off the top? I guess if you mixed 100 gallons of 1:25 when it should have been 1:40 you could freeze the oil out.
I've been teaching my son to shut off the fuel and run the piece of equipment dry if you don't know when you are going to use it next for a while now. So far he has done it and no repair bills to boot.
started using fuel shut offs about 10 years ago, saved me many a headache I believe. Love this channel helped me with so many problems not to mention money
I’m glad your honest about this I run all of my equipment dry at the end of the season and always use the fuel shut off valves
Thank you for your videos! I'm in Darwin Australia, and I get something from each of your videos. I do most of my maintenance myself and love having a resource such as yourself to help.
You lot can just park it in the sun, dry up all the water :-)
@@lot6129 It can be very humid in Darwin, even in the sun.
All my equipment have the shut offs and they start each year for over 30 pass years. I use mystery oil in the fuel and in the engine oil. Works great with no problems for over 30 years! This is an old timers hack Im 80!
I have done this same practice all my adult life-since 1978.
I now leave for the winter. Upon returning I never have issues. Fresh fuel, no fuel left in carburetor, no water, no problem.
Thanks for sharing Bre. I've been doing this for 50+ years. My equipment ALWAYS starts on the first pull or the click of the key.
And....you're absolutely right about what we have to use that they call gasoline nowadays. It is definitely getting worse & worse.
Keep up the good work. You are definitely helping a lot of people out with your channel.
@mariicancersorry to hear your bad news stay positive you will beat it
After spending multiples of what I spent to buy a mower on repairs, I am so grateful I found your channel. Subscribed.
LOVE THAT SHIRT! I added a fuel shutoff on my 2006 Snapper, after I found the crankcase full of gasoline. I close it and run it dry after every use. It cranks on the 3rd pull every time. Oh yeah, I took out the electrical starting system and all the safety crap too. It's been a great machine and still going strong 17 years later.
Just finished overhauling my Ryobi 725r trimmer that had been sitting for over 5 years. I had been told by Ace Hardware that fixing it would cost as much as a new one. Took it apart, cleaned it, replaced the carb and fuel lines, and good to go. Very satisfying. Thanks for your straightforward advice.
I met the owner of B3C Fuel Solutions a few years ago. I real passionate chemist and cool dude to talk to and learn. Started using their products and have not been disappointed. Also installed that exact manual shut off valve because solenoids fail. Love your content and passion for sharing!
Not only adding the shutoff it also makes it easier to empty the tank for storage or just for working on the engine or machine if you have to. Thanks for the tip and great video!
Great video! It's something I probably wouldn't have thought of. Fortunately, everything I own has a shut off valve.
One thing I'd like to mention, and it's a bit unorthodox; I don't use fuel stabilizers but every spring I add a little bit of acetone to the fuel. It absorbs moisture and, being a great solvent, removes any varnish that may have built up. I've been doing this for years and I've never had a problem. I even use it in my gas fueled cars to keep the injectors clean. I use about 1 gallon of acetone per 25 gallons of gasoline (about 4% mixture).
From information I've been able to find, Acetone also helps the fuel vaporize and raises the octane rating of the fuel.
How much does a gallon cost and where can you buy it? Thanks
Hi Bre. I bought 2 of the weed watcher replacement heads I saw your video on. Boy we’re they easy to install . I also adapted them with aunt and washers to bump the head on to save the plastic head that was a 10 minute job. Thanks again for all the good advice your giving everyone
I too have been adding a fuel shut off on all lawn mowers I work on because of just what you have shown ! Thank you for the great information you give , love watching them!
We live eastern Canada and after starting to use high test gas in everything (non ethanol which is the problem) never had a problem since with starting or storing..etc. and occasionally ad some gas line antifreeze to get rid of water from condensation .
Just found your channel and enjoyed this video. I only started working on outdoor power equipment a few years ago for my stuff/friends & family and I thought it odd that I was seeing equipment without fuel shutoff +/- fuel filters. I thought it was only about running a carb dry, imagine my surprise to learn I was inadvertently also saving engines from a world of hurt! Thanks for taking me to school- Greetings from Ontario, Canada!
I ran a boat tour business in Maine for 25 years using a variety of 90 hp outboard engines…both 2 stroke and 4 stroke. I was meticulous about fueling the boat and made sure that old fuel did not accumulate in the tank. One day I bought 10 gals of gas at the local gas station and set off on a tour. One mile from the dock my engine quit and I had to be towed back. I got a glass jar, removed the end of the fuel pickup hose from the engine and pumped a half quart of fuel into the jar. It was pure water! I then had to spend several hours totally emptying my 27 gallon tank by squeezing the fuel line primer bulb. Worse yet after paying $2 a gallon to have the fuel reconditioned by the outboard dealer I was told I could not use it in my boat but had to add it by the half gallon when I filled up my pickup truck fuel tank. Not long afterwards I spent $25 for a special water separating fuel funnel that lets gas through but not water. Best $25 I have ever spent!
Do you have a link for that water seperator
If you use ethanol gas you won't have that problem. I've had water separators on boats for years and they work. Once ethanol in gas became a thing no need for the separators any more.
Took a small motor class at community college and was told exactly this. The teacher also owned his own repair shop.
Have a 20 yo Honda push mower and have never had an issue with water in my gas. I use the shut off valve but never knew how important it was. Thank you!
Had a bunch of fuel go bad this year in Jerry cans and in bikes tanks. Some of the "fresh" regular gas I've gotten doesn't pass the sniff test, couple months in a can and you can pour a cup and ask anyone and they'll guess paint or lacquer, I'm amazed my van runs on that crap, but you gotta travel to next town and pay another buck a gallon for no cornsyrup gas. I'll use regular sometimes if I'm sure I'll run it all through mower immediately. Anyhow, glad to find this Chanel! Cool community and content.
I'll say this, you had taught me how to! and it's saved me a lot of money by repairing it myself. And I thank you for it.
Glad I could help!
Great tip!
Ethanol has caused me so much grief with my lawn equipment over the years, and I had cursed, repaired or replaced several lawn tools due to hard starting and poor performance. Until I was enlightened about using premium (zero ethanol) gasoline and instantly all troubles just disappeared. The premium gasoline is more expensive, but honestly the time and frustration it saves is worth it. Also while it may seem wasteful, running the tool dry helps a lot in preventing hard starts after long storage.
Randy, not all "premium" gasoline is ethanol free. Be sure to check the pump labels or better still ask the station attendant if their premium grade gas is actually ethanol free. Premium, regular, etc. normally relates to octane ratings.
You can Add seafoam to ethanol gas and get the same result
Premium is a SCAM
Treat your fuel with Stabil 360 even though the fuel will not be sitting very long. 360 has additives to counter the ethanol issue. I have used it for many years and all of the issues I had in the past have disappeared.
@@joejohnston2035 Not in a "high compression" car engine. Regular is for lawn and garden equipment, unless stated otherwise by manufacturer.
Thank you for the advice to install a fuel shutoff on mower or other gas-powered tool fuel lines.
I try to keep my motorcycle gas tanks full, same with mowers, and have never had the moisture invasion problem. We're talking a half-century of doing that. My thought is that an empty or partly empty tank will inhale air as it cools off (nighttime, when the dew point drops and air takes up less volume) and exhale during the day as the air or vapor in the tank warms up. I believe that the more full I keep the tanks, the less "breathing" they will do every day. Never seen rust in any of my tanks yet. (I'm in my 70s now, still ride 3 motorcycles, have 2 gas mowers, a rider and a push, and the push is 30 years old.)
Happy mower using, y'all!
Thank you I’m Mike and I’m 65 years old and like your videos. I to work on small equipment and you help a lot,So Thank you. ✌️
I learned more about carbourators in this video then I did in a semester in vo-ag tearing down a small engine! Or maybe it just makes more sense because I'm the one paying when things go wrong! Thanks for this great tip.
Yes, I put a shut off on my mowers but also a filter as well. Mow the lawn, dirt and everything else goes flying in the air, covers the mower, especially around the filler cap, and dirt goes in and doesn't come out, and clogs the needle. Now, no more clogs. So I recommend both, especially when you have to work on it.
I wish I had seen this ten years ago. I learned this the hard way plus a lot of labor. Thanks for the video. You are in my favorites.
Good advice, indeed. I bought a new snowblower recently, and was shocked to find it had no fuel cutoff valve. Very annoying, and there's no room to install one. Also, when it comes to the fuel itself, I go to the local airport and buy 5 or 6 gallons of 100LL avgas- no alcohol. I treat it with Sta-bil right away, and use it on ALL of my small engines.
Avgas is stabile up to about 10 years on its own.
@@DblIre I have heard that- and I have had some experience with old leaded automotive gas going back many years (the gas, that is) that was still quite usable, but I am a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy.
I put a shut-off between the tank and carb. I had my crankcase fill with gas once on one of my riders. My wife happens to work at a small engine shop in sales. I got her the info of the engine and had her order the carb. Installed it and added the manuel shut off. No problems since. (4 years)
On three separate occasions I have come to my commercial Walker Mower and found the fuel had drained into the crank case. I mean complete hydro-lock. I contacted Walker and they were great. They asked if I'd purchased my Walker second hand, which I had. They asked if the previous owner had shown me where the fuel shutoff valve was. He had not. LOL. Lesson learned.
On the plus side, you won't find a cleaner crank case anywhere!
A friend of mine had a boat and motor repair shop. He told me 75% of the motor problems was gas related. Enjoy your videos!
Yeah, the water starts at the gas station inside the tanks below ground. It's usually due to rainfall. Years ago, I used to go around removing that water from various gas stations throughout the day. It's a fairly simple process. We used a very long steel pipe that would touch the bottom of the tank and syphon from there. Probably the same process in your gas can, I suppose.
But if the station is putting water in your gas, that probably means (in most cases, anyway) they're too cheap to pay for this regular maintenance. I recommend not using them in the future to get your gas.
If a fuel supply tanker has just filled, or is filling the station's tank, avoid that station for a while. The water in the bottom of the tank can be churned up during the tanker's filling process and allow "bottom water" to be pumped into YOUR tank along with the fuel you are expecting.
@@oleran4569 Well, that would likely depend on how deep their pumping hoses/pipes reach down into the tank. If it's reaching toward the bottom, that would be moot, as the water is heavier than the fuel.
Great advice! I do this always, and I also added T-fittings and another valve to make draining old gas easy. When something won't start or run, the FIRST thing to do is use fresh gas.
When I bought an off brand replacment carb for my lawn vac they included a fuel shutoff. Just the other day I said I have to put that on. Works great, the thing starts better than when it was new.
I agree 100 % !
Anyone using a low use gas power tool like a rototiller, dethatcher, generator, ETC needs to pay special attention to this advice !
Anyone buying non ethanol fuel at Murrrys near a Walmart needs to first dump some into the vehicle to flush out the line.
At least 99 % of the gas powered tools I've picked up on the side of the road, had been to me had a simple fuel issue.
Then Toro comes up with the bright idea the oil never needs changing in their ads.
What better way to have them fail and have to buy another mower !
You can buy water finding paste to check for water in your fuel. We use it all the time at work for checking fuel station tanks for water. You just spread it thin on a stick and it will turn colour on contact with water instantly. They make it for regular gas and ethanol blends, some do both. (the ethanol essentially coats the water so the regular paste won't detect it all the time)
Makes more sense now why I’ve seen rust form inside the float bowl before. I have a Honda walk behind and never use the fuel shutoff that it came equipped with 🙄 maybe I’ll start 😁 thanks for the helpful video!! 🤟
Thanks Bre.
Great information. For the last 15 yrs, I've always use premium / non-ethanal gas and a marine grade fuel stabalizer for ethanol mixed gas. I've also installed inline shutoff on most of my equipment. ( more for no fuel mess when dismantling equipment) though, now that I think about it, when I put whatever equipment it is , to bed for the winter, I do run them out of fuel by useing the shutoff ang running them dry. I guess I've took your advice already.
I’ve used sta-bil for decades and it works. I have also worked on small engines for decades and I will say 90 plus percent of small engine problems are bad old fuel.
Best thing I ever did was add this 10 years ago on my riding mower. I shut the fuel off and let it run until it stops. Works like a charm.
Thanks, I just bought a John Deere S140 after watching your videos. I was looking at a Craftsman 19 hp until i saw U!
Ok, you're one of my favorite channels, but I still have a special place in my heart for the beer drinking Canadian guy. Good stuff, keep it up!
I agree, great channel, learn plenty here. Canadian beer drinker has Ytube channel? Have a link? I don't drink beer when grass cutting lol, cheers to those who do!
@@kowen3959 I think Jeff was referring to Steve's Small Engine Saloon.
Great video! Ethanol in fuel is a total menace isn't it? Not only is it hygroscopic but it destroys so many rubber parts. Even with a fuel tap, the tank will breath with the temperature cycling and pull moisture in.
My favourite mistake is thinking I'll use the thing once more and so not drain it and then forget until the next year.
Love ya girlie !! I’m an ATV & Small Engine mechanic and when I’m stumped I always look at your videos and you help me out- so thanks ❤keep being awesome!!
I have a lawncare business I change oil a little ahead of recommended schedule and for off season storage I add seafoam and fuel stabilizer run all equipment dry , this storage and maintenance process allows insures my equipment runs for many yrs . My Ole saying is what you do at end of season depends on how you start next season.
Great addition for units which I find myself trying to empty of fuel each autumn. Word of advice for all: Do not use ethanol in your small engines if you can avoid it. I use only high-octane REC fuel, 0% ethanol 👍
REC fuel? I use 93 octane in my lawn equipment also because of the ethanol in regular.
So where exactly would you put the shut off valve? I’m new to working on my mower so excuse my ignorance. I know it goes on the fuel line but where.
@@janet-o6cbetween the fuel tank and the carburetor.
Thank you posting these videos!! I have learned SO MUCH!! We have so many broken down equipment here and usually end up replacing everything. You have given me the confidence to break out my toolbox and tackle them one by one!!! My husband is not a "fixer"...😂😂😂. So, keep up the good work!!!
Why is it your husbands job at all?
Why even mention him.
If a man did the same thing abiut a cooking and his wife all you fruit cakes would call it mysonagist.
You go for it Betty. If Bre can do it then so can you. Just take your time, work in a methodical manner and a manual always helps. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Great tip for those who don't know👍🏻 all my riding mowers/garden tractors have a fuel shutoff valve. If they didn't come with one, I installed one within the first month of owning it!
As you said, if you'll use it. My elderly neighbor bought a 1 year old crapsman rider 14 years ago when it had 6 hours on it. Still has under 30 hours on it this year. Anyway, almost every year I have to clean its carb. (She'll use it once or twice and let it sit the next 10 months with gas in it) about 8 years ago its nikki carb was corroded beyond cleaning, and when I replaced the carb, I installed a shutoff valve. She used the shutoff valve properly that first year and never since🤬 oh well... I tried🤷♂️😅
5:30 gas experiment- the process of evaporation causes cooling which causes moisture in the air to condense, much like a cold drink will have moisture condense on it. Important to keep fuel containers sealed and have working vents on your equipment. I agree, all manufacturers should have a shutoff on their products. My oldest engine, a 1956 Briggs HAS a shutoff on the tank. Still runs like a champ. Enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from you. Many thanks!
I had a John Deere L111 that just happened to have the only japanese-made carburetor. The solenoid went bad and I priced them at $60 so I said nope and I proceeded to find a bolt that would fit that hole that was short enough and of course with a petroleum resistant gasket. I then got a $5 shutoff valve and with 2 adjustable hose clamps I cut the fuel line in half and installed the shut-off switch. When I got done mowing I would turn the shut-off switch to off and allow the engine to die then turn the key off. It worked great was cheap and easy to install.
Just started watching your videos. Great lessons. No longer afraid to repair small engines. Keep up the great work. Your a great teacher.
Robert Kuschel 😊
Hello Chickanic. Glad to see you're doing well - as always. Thanks for sharing your advice regarding small engine manufacturers. 😁😉
While for routine use Honda fuel shut off is convenient, but if you want to clean jets you often have to remove the carburetor! Now what do you do? Plastic deck you can’t easily remove the jet and aeration tube. Separate shut off in line is best solution I think so completely agree with Chickanic.
I have a 7 year old, Walmart MTD 21” w the Briggs 550 engine I believe. Oil each fall, new plug and fresh air filter and fuel. Touch up the blades or replace when needed. It just works.
Great video by the way, and your suggestion is spot on! As opposed to using fuel additives, I found using Chevron or Texaco with Techron is all the fuel with additive I have ever needed. The other thing is I only run Premium in my small engines which seems to help them during the hot summer months when pre-detonation is more of a problem. I have literally gone for decades and all my stuff starts the first pull, or second time once I remember to turn the full on. Lol! I just subscribed to your channel, look forward to more smart tips! Thanks!
I have never ever had a problem with any of my power equipment having pre detonation issues. Premium fuel is never needed unless you are stripping the alcohol out of it.
The best approach is to use non ethanol gasoline. Add some StaBil Storage and you'll never have a problem with water from the atmosphere being absorbed into the fuel. Fuel shutoff is a great addition.
You couldn't be more wrong. Water gets in your tank through condensation, the fuller the tank, the less air gets in and so less water. Ethanol in your gas will absorb water and harmlessly burn it off in your combustion chamber. If you use straight gas the water will sit in your tank. Ethanol cannot suck water out of the air (despite what it may say on Wikipedia).
The new Champion generator we just got has the engine kill switch and fuel shut off married together, so killing the engine shuts the fuel off at the same time. Makes it tough to run the carb dry for storage though, but still an improvement in design.
Just add you're own shut off where the fuel line comes off the carb.
@@JM-yx1lm don't worry that's what I'm going to do, I have a small engine business myself and have the valves on hand 😉
I don't know if I have seen that yet. Great...
I recently bought a used Honda mower with Honda engine because that is what everyone recommended. Now, let me preface-I usually do my swaps at the Police station as they have a designated are for just that!! But not big enough for a mower so we met in a parking lot. So he takes out of his truck, shows me everything and it all works well. So, I get it home and I immediately have a problem!! I get about 20-25 feet and it starts doing this rev up and rev back down (repeat repeat repeat). So I try the old fashioned trick of holding the front of the mower in the air hoping that it will just work itself out and go back to normal. NOPE. Now i have the mower wheels set to the highest setting (5) and it set to bag. Still does this over and over again. So I jump on the net and find that fuel thing -a-mig-diggy. Of course it was set to straight up. The wrong setting. So I turn it so that it is flat. IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING!!! Will buying a new one of these fix the problem and how hard is that to replace because I'm more of a computer guy than a mechanical guy..... :) And thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
The valve should be set inline with the fuel line. That is the open position. From what you are describing, I’d recommend definitely changing your air filter. If you’re doing that, might as well do the spark plug as well. Make sure you have new non ethanol gas. If you still have an issue, it’s probably something in your carburetor. I’m not a small engine mechanic. But I am a handyman who maintains a bunch of equipment.
I was told this by a small engine repair guy decades ago and yup, no issues with my stuff starting every spring! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the info. It's extremely refreshing to see a woman's face that hasn't been painted with clown makeup! It must be nice not having to remove your face before bed. ....
The anti backfire solenoid is not a fuel shut off for the carburetor it's the needle valve on the float
That solenoid shuts off the fuel when the oil pressure drops below a specified level, and has nothing to do with backfires.
Ethanol free gas!
The problem is, it isn't ALWAYS ethanol free! She has tested ethanol free gas and it comes back having ethanol....ugh so annoying.
@@denisesellers8244 Shell and Bucky's have dedicated pumps
I put a shut off and a filter on my troy bilt tiller they day it arrived in March of 1979. It has the 7hp K series Kohler engine. I have put three 11 sets of tines. Replaced drive belt and tires. The engine I changed the oil three times per year , air filter and spark plug as needed, and fuel tank because of a rust hole. Everything else is still good. Never have had to open the carburetor open.
I pulled my mower out of the shed after sitting for several years.(been down with health issues). By watching your videos(and a couple others) was able to get my 6.75 B&S started and running perfectly. I know I'm a little late to the party here but also added this fuel shut off valve so I will never have to deal with the issues again. Thanks for what you do!!!
Over the last 5 years I can hardly believe how many riding mowers that have hydrolocked or quit running at first of season use due to water in the fuel just from sitting with fuel in them for months and not having a fuel shut off outer than the one on the bottle of the bowl that hangs up from crappy fuel deposits. Thanks for your great videos and the reminders of the horrible fuel we are getting.
My old Troy Bill filled the oil with gas. I pulled and cleaned the carb, fuel tank, changed oil 3x in an hour, and put a fuel cut off on it. EXACTLY what you just covered. Great advice.
You're the 1st person to mention the gas issue I've been trying to tell ppl about. Almost every vehicle smells like it needs a tuneup or something including my new truck 👍🏾
I installed a gas shut off on my Toro Super Recycler three weeks ago now it starts on the first pull before it was two or three pulls. Well worth the $7.00 part !!!
You are one sharp cookie, I know about ten percent of what you do! The best automatic transmission mechanic I know is a lady, I also know one that can not only build you a house she’ll build you a. neighborhood. Thanks for the education and have a great day.
Good useful info, thanks! Yup, water is everywhere, especially in air! Every time you start and warm up an engine, the crankcase exhales the old air in there. Then when it cools down it takes a deep breath of fresh moist air. Soon, you have a water-oil emulsion. That's how it works. As for gasoline, drain the tank empty if it will set more than 30 days. Most engines perform poorly if at-all with old gasoline. Even Honda!