Small Engine Manufacturers rather sell you parts than add this simple accessory to save you money!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2023
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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@Chickanic Is the Ethanol Shield different from the STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer?
I've been shutting off the fuel and letting the engine run dry for about 50 years now, and you are 100% right. That and changing the oil at least once per season, and stuff runs for ever. Thank you for your informative videos.
Psssh I bought my snow blower a decade ago and have never changed the oil lol
Yes yes I know I should, but I’ve got a plow truck and a skid steer so it really sees very very little use and is basically a garage ornament.
@@jaydunbar7538 Just lucky
This is great info.
I just poo-pood her answer yet I am giving you an up-vote. Seems like a contradiction, but you both have valid points which I do not disagree with. My no-valve, new gas in the spring, run dry B 4 winter has worked for 40 years too. Is there a need to use some dry gas during the season? Maybe?
Hey i wanted u to know out o alll lawn mowers and smalk engine chanbels i ve seen !!Way better than guys by fdd
55 yr old son of a mechanic and never heard of this hack. THANK YOU!
Took a small motor class at community college and was told exactly this. The teacher also owned his own repair shop.
Great videos. It's a real pleasure to see a woman destroy stereotypes.
I enjoy watching your knowledge and experience with small engines.
Keep them coming.
Good for you, when you get done praising her you can get fitted for a nice apro
So you admit the stereotypes are correct? You do understand how stereotypes work right?
I always run non-ethanol gas, drain the tank at the end of the season and run the carb dry. Thanks for another great video!
Me too!
Dallas Ft Worth area has no ethanol free gas station; criminals. I have to travel out of that counties to buy real gas.
@PDB Long QuikTrip has zero ethanol in the DFW area.
Bucee’s in Denton also carries E0.
I run non-alcohol gas, don't drain the carb, and start first pull on my old brigs and stratton after sitting for 5 months. Good fuel makes all the difference.
The draining the tank and carb thing is a good practice, but it is only /needed/ for gasohol. Gasohol has a shelf life of 2 months sealed, and only a week in a fuel tank. Regular gas will last years (with a little stabil added).
I shut the fuel off and run the carb every time. No problems in 5 years since I started doing it. Great tip.
Hello. You mean run it till its dry and engine dies? Do you do that with 2 strokes? Because that will run lean for a while and i was always afraid to do that because i did not want to damage the entine.
@@HonzaZalabak you cannot damage the engine by Just shutting the fuel, unless you are revving It like hell or using It under heavy load, at idle the Little leaning when the fuel ends doesnt do anything
@@gillespriod5509 i thought that because somewhere I read that you shold not run yoirch chainsaw completly dry because of this
Don't run it dry unless you're putting it away for the year, there's several problems that can occur from running them dry one of which is the float can stick in the fully open position and the next time you turn the fuel on it'll flood and run out the overflow making a mess, if that does happen tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle a couple times that usually frees them up.
Running them dry everytime you shut them off is unnecessary anyways, all you're doing is increasing the chances of several problems that can occur from doing it, the only advantage to running them dry is for long term storage to avoid things like the gas in small passages and jets turning to varnish and getting gummy, otherwise it's simply unnecessary and invites problems associated with running them dry, gaskets getting wet and drying out regularly can also cause issues, just leave the gas in it between mowings it won't hurt anything, they're designed to have gas in them, just not long term.
@@dukecraig2402 thank you for this information. Makes sence.
I'm an old (72-year-old) retired Army fellow. But, I like to learn. You seem to enjoy teaching. I stumbled around like a Blind Hog and found you on TH-cam and subscribed. I've been cutting grass for decades with lawn mowers without knowing what I needed to know about my equipment! Now, I have a chance after finding your channel. Thanks!
Ok, you're one of my favorite channels, but I still have a special place in my heart for the beer drinking Canadian guy. Good stuff, keep it up!
I agree, great channel, learn plenty here. Canadian beer drinker has Ytube channel? Have a link? I don't drink beer when grass cutting lol, cheers to those who do!
@@kowen3959 I think Jeff was referring to Steve's Small Engine Saloon.
The anti backfire solenoid is not a fuel shut off for the carburetor it's the needle valve on the float
That solenoid shuts off the fuel when the oil pressure drops below a specified level, and has nothing to do with backfires.
I been using sta-bil and 91 chevron non ethanol gas, storing gas for a year in plastic cans its been total fine, never had any issues.. I used the fuel shut off trick on the generator, etc; it works great..
Thank you for the advice to install a fuel shutoff on mower or other gas-powered tool fuel lines.
I try to keep my motorcycle gas tanks full, same with mowers, and have never had the moisture invasion problem. We're talking a half-century of doing that. My thought is that an empty or partly empty tank will inhale air as it cools off (nighttime, when the dew point drops and air takes up less volume) and exhale during the day as the air or vapor in the tank warms up. I believe that the more full I keep the tanks, the less "breathing" they will do every day. Never seen rust in any of my tanks yet. (I'm in my 70s now, still ride 3 motorcycles, have 2 gas mowers, a rider and a push, and the push is 30 years old.)
Happy mower using, y'all!
I drilled a hole in a gas cap, take the feed tube off carb. Use an blow nozzle and blow the system dry, then clean the carb 😀
The 1953 firetruck in my avatar had an electric fuel pump installed which gets shut off prior to shutting down the 800cubic inch Wakesha engine. Running the carb empty prevents vapor lock in restarting a hot engine. Works winter, summer for us since 1976 and we have never been in the carb.
Wonderful channel. Lots of knowledge presented in the understandable way.
After 32 years as a small engine shop owner your advice is sound..spot on!
Thanks, I just bought a John Deere S140 after watching your videos. I was looking at a Craftsman 19 hp until i saw U!
Also be attentive of small engines that have a painted carburetor bowl. They will also paint them on the inside. The paint will break down and clog the valves. Especially if it has set up over the winter 👍
A word of caution concerning shut-offs. There are two after-market valves commonly available, (in Oz, at least) one with a red tap & one with a yellow. I have learned, the hard way, that the yellow shut-offs don't flow as much fuel as the red ones. If your motor is larger than 17 - 18 horsepower & tends to be worked hard, make sure you use the shut-off with the RED tap. In most applications the difference may not be noticeable. But every now & then you might encounter a fuel supply issue under load. May your grass always be greener!
Sweet !
I agree, I have a red one on a 12hp mower, but no fuel filter. This year it would run for a few minutes then conk out. It was some junk partly blocking the hole in the shut off. I clean it out, and installed a fuel filter, running well again. I always use the fuel shut off, just in case the float ever decides to leak. I drain the tank each fall, then refill with new gas in the spring.
Better:
fuel sediment bowl SEARCH
Dump if you see water & fuel separation or all water, repeat until only fuel appears in bulb.
remove carburetor bowl and dump that if sediment bulb was filled with water, drain a little fuel through the hose into the loose carburetor bowl to clear out water in that, then re-attach carburetor bowl.
Warm air has a much higher water capacity than cooler air.
For small engine, refill tank immediately after use to displace warm wet air.
Small aircraft fuel tanks have a sump with a valve opened by fuel tester probe pin. 100LL has a blue dye that eventually stains the plastic fuel tester. You look for separation between clear water and blue gas. In my experience during preflight I checked by visual inspection after removing gas caps to see tanks were full. Then sumped Cessna 152 gas tanks, one each wing 12 gallon s, 24 gallons total. I always had some water, usually removed during first sump. Capacity of fuel tester probably 2.5 oz, so always 1 Oz or so of water. One time I sumped a tank 3 times and fuel tester was stained, I thought it must have been me. I went to the other tank and after the second sump I saw some fuel in the stained tester. I went back to the first tank and after a total of 5 full fuel testers finally saw some fuel. In my experience cold aircraft are not started before a preflight including sumping of tanks, so water in lines from tank is not a common issue.
Per another comment, make sure whatever you use has sufficient flow capacity especially for larger engines.
I’m glad your honest about this I run all of my equipment dry at the end of the season and always use the fuel shut off valves
I counted four that I need. I know I'll acquire more stuff so I'm just going to get six. Thank you for the tip
I just finished changing the carb on my Swisher rider mower. I bought the carb on Ebay for $32 but it included a shutoff valve, air filter, spark plug, and gaskets with it. The air filter was the right shape but too thick to fit properly. My biggest problem though was the carb itself. It had a little piece of plastic sticking up top of the choke control. I put it together twice and both times the choke would stick. I finally looked and the little knub of plastic was rubbing on the air filter case. The knub was only a little more than a quarter inch but there wasn't clearance for it so I clipped it off with my end cutter and now the mower runs fine. I noticed the little knub right away but being so small I thought it wouldn't interfer with anything. I was wrong. What a crazy thing to add to a carb.
Thanks so very much Bre, for all your hard work and help to us, you re dearly appreciated ! ❤
Aw! Thanks Buddy!!
A local shop here would install these shut offs on every machine they worked on. It is amazing on the amount of time an money it has saved me with not having down equipment. Great vid!!!👍👍👍
Thats Exactly what the Manufactures think .. Save Money . Hence you dont get these little additions .
Gas is more water than gas,cars now have a water drain hole in the muffler years ago water coming out of the exhaust meant a blown head gasket.we haven't had real has for yrs.petroleum is being used to make plastic
10yrs.ago I let a gallon of gas sit for 2months and it turned to plain water and put out a fire with it.and when put a shut off on your equipment you shut it off and run all fuel out and this does keep your carb
From fouling up su quickly for sure.
@@larrygooch62332 months???Surely you mean 2 years.
Good shop
I personally use true fuel as well. Run the equipment dry, add some true fuel then run to clear fuel out of the carb. Hit the cutoff, let it run out and your good.
True fuel is ethanol free and pre stabilized. Good for 2 years in the can, 1 year in the equipment. I can tell you I let some sit in a snowblower for 2 years. Yes it went from a full tank to 1/4 tank but that machine started on the second pull once I opened the cutoff. Great stuff for storage.
I'll do this, I like to empty the gas from my mower and put the rest of the fuel in the snowblower... then start fresh with whatever the season! Adding the shut off valve will save me time and with your added suggestion, the water...
started using fuel shut offs about 10 years ago, saved me many a headache I believe. Love this channel helped me with so many problems not to mention money
I read in a flyers handbook decades ago, that as soon as light aircraft owners land back at their airport, it stressed the importance of filling the gas tank/s up again. This gets rid of the air inside the tank preventing water vapor in the air from finding its way into the fuel. I don't know if this applies to any other machines with much smaller tanks, but there you are. Cheers.
Boats! Always stop at the ethanol free pump at your marina slip/ boat ramp and top off the tank. Storing a boat with air in the tank, ESPECIALLY on water at a marina, is asking for an expensive bill.
Float/needle seat/ gasket. Simple stuff that does wonders.
It just removes the air so that condensation isn't an issue, as mentioned it often an issue on boats.
I've done the fill up on my cars in winter for 45 yrs. On the advice of a pair of old school mechanics.
That is standard advice in the large engine industry as well. Even the manual for my 1952 D4 bulldozer tells me to top up the tank after shutting down for the day.
I put a shut-off between the tank and carb. I had my crankcase fill with gas once on one of my riders. My wife happens to work at a small engine shop in sales. I got her the info of the engine and had her order the carb. Installed it and added the manuel shut off. No problems since. (4 years)
If you keep your tank full, there is no (little) air for condensation. But this is a great thing, too. Also, my Brother (a Mechanic) says to _never_ use "mother nature's fuel" (alcohol additives) - use straight petroleum, as it saves the mixing thingie. Oh - carb!
This was a great tip! I would add that, when running the carb dry at the end of the season, shut the gas off, let it run, then as it starts to run rough, start adding in choke. Continue adding in choke to keep it running smoothly until it runs dry and quits at full choke. This will get you closer to a fully dry carburetor. You're now ready to start cold at next running. I've done this with a 15 year old Ariens snowblower since new, and have never had to do carburetor work on it.
Agreed
Great tip!
When its so dry it won't run anymore, I spray the air filter with quick-start, and the extra 10 or 15 secs of running sucks the bowl dry.
I have a new Ariens snowblower and just run it dry then drain the bowl through the plug at the bottom.
Great additional tip. Because I just run it dry. But I will open the choke and let it run smooth then it can become even more dry. Sounds crazy but I understand.
Great advice, Bre. I have these on all my lawn equipment and run them dry after each use. The reason for modern gas deteriorating rapidly and attracting moisture as you have shown, is ethanol. I use non-ethanol gas in all my small engines and never have that jellylike gunk in the carb bowls. Will also keep your fuel lines from deteriorating. In a modern car, no problem, but in small engines ethanol is a real problem.
I started putting ethanol neutralizer in my master supply for all my lawn and garden equipment 5 years ago, which I draw my gas for my 2 stroke equipment from, and all my ethanol related problems went away, I can even let my equipment sit all winter (my snowblower all summer) with fuel in them and just like in the days of ethanol free gas everything starts right up the next spring.
I've got too much property to take care of with trimmers, mowers (push and riding), chainsaws and everything else to pay for that ridiculously high priced canned gas and there's only one station in my area that has ethanol free gas out of a pump and it's ridiculously expensive also.
In the 5 years I've been doing it everything is just like years ago as far as how I store and take care of my equipment, and I don't have some kind of white jelly built up in anything like all kinds of people said I'd have according to the guy who has the channel Project Farm, I quit watching his videos years back because of huge flaws I saw in some of his supposed testing, last time on this channel that I mentioned using ethanol neutralizer I had all kinds of guy's screaming at me referencing a video of his claiming it'd cause some kind of white jelly in my fuel systems that'll clog them up in a short amount of time according to him, it's like I told them "5 years now and I don't have anything at all like that in ANY of my equipment, so apparently there's a serious flaw in the way he supposedly proved it".
@@dukecraig2402 What do you use to neutralize ethanol?
@@beingthere597 Add water. Not kidding. Ethanol is hydrophilic. After settling, the water/ethanol will drop to the bottom. Then just siphon out one or the other.
I don't know how much, but ethanol adds octane so you should probably get premium.
@@sansoucie1969 Fortunately, the premium grade at the local Walmart (Murphy Oil Co.) is non-ethanol. I just have to put the first gallon in my car, since there is probably 10% ethanol gas in the line from the last user.
@@dukecraig2402 I also saw problems with Project Farm videos and stopped watching. Too many people can't think for themselves and believe whatever anyone tells them.
Fuel shut of valve is a must. Because, when the mower or riding mower is transported, the up and down movement caused by the vehicle will cause to move the float up and down, will cause to flood it. Some time to engine too
Regarding your comment about sometimes not enough room for a shut off valve; I have addressed that by rerouting the fuel line, even if it means adding more. Adding that valve is the best thing i ever did for my small engines.
Thanks for sharing Bre. I've been doing this for 50+ years. My equipment ALWAYS starts on the first pull or the click of the key.
And....you're absolutely right about what we have to use that they call gasoline nowadays. It is definitely getting worse & worse.
Keep up the good work. You are definitely helping a lot of people out with your channel.
@@mariicancersorry to hear your bad news stay positive you will beat it
Wow! From one fix-it chick to another I’m so glad I stumbled on your sight. This is a brilliant, simple trick that definitely should just come standard on small engines. Thanks so much for sharing sister. I wish I had your knowledge of engines! I’ll definitely be checking out your posts. Your neighbor from Oklahoma, Kasie
I discovered your videos a week or two ago and loved them. I'm a 69-year-old do-it-yourself chick. It’s just the way I was raised.
Thank you for your videos! I'm in Darwin Australia, and I get something from each of your videos. I do most of my maintenance myself and love having a resource such as yourself to help.
You lot can just park it in the sun, dry up all the water :-)
@@lot6129 It can be very humid in Darwin, even in the sun.
I'm an expert on water in your gas (diesel) by now. John Deere 75hp tractor and it has been a nightmare keeping it running smoothly. Every time with no exceptions it's the diesel not the tractor. Yes, I have went to several different places to buy, yes I keep it indoors, yes I do everything right, or so I thought. I finally have figured it out and now have zero issues. 1) Water separator prior to putting it in my tank. 2) Keep a full tank during cold weather so water will not form in the headspace and drop into the tank. 3) Add a water remover, an anti-gel additive and yes even an anti-fungal additive. My tractor almost stopped running because of slime in my tank, injectors and entire fuel system. i know this isn't a small engine but I'm telling you I have learned the hard way to start with the fuel when sh*t hits the fan.
Hi Bre. I bought 2 of the weed watcher replacement heads I saw your video on. Boy we’re they easy to install . I also adapted them with aunt and washers to bump the head on to save the plastic head that was a 10 minute job. Thanks again for all the good advice your giving everyone
Just one more reason I love living in a dry climate (SE Wyoming). We pretty much never have to use fuel stabilizers in anything we have here, and have no issues with water getting into the fuel, even when the fuel is over a year old.
Love her advice! I have used fuel stabilizer for 25 years anyway. Solved a lot of chainsaw problems. Also I too noticed the lack of fuel shutoffs and have added them to about everything. Makes draining the tank (for any reason) a bit easier.
Just for that reason alone it is worth adding, you’d think they would just make it standard, ya know the brilliant engineers!
@@iloveit9468 What, Make Things Better lol
This lady knows her stuff.
Great tip!
Ethanol has caused me so much grief with my lawn equipment over the years, and I had cursed, repaired or replaced several lawn tools due to hard starting and poor performance. Until I was enlightened about using premium (zero ethanol) gasoline and instantly all troubles just disappeared. The premium gasoline is more expensive, but honestly the time and frustration it saves is worth it. Also while it may seem wasteful, running the tool dry helps a lot in preventing hard starts after long storage.
Randy, not all "premium" gasoline is ethanol free. Be sure to check the pump labels or better still ask the station attendant if their premium grade gas is actually ethanol free. Premium, regular, etc. normally relates to octane ratings.
You can Add seafoam to ethanol gas and get the same result
Premium is a SCAM
Treat your fuel with Stabil 360 even though the fuel will not be sitting very long. 360 has additives to counter the ethanol issue. I have used it for many years and all of the issues I had in the past have disappeared.
@@joejohnston2035 Not in a "high compression" car engine. Regular is for lawn and garden equipment, unless stated otherwise by manufacturer.
We fuel haulers test for water in fuel tanks, by putting a dab of water test paste on the end of our tank measuring stick. The stuff is called Gasolia AP02, and it turns coolant green when it touches water (the reaction creates the same green chemical as NileRed used to color his liquid soap). It could be useful to spot-check and show them visually that there is indeed water in the fuel. Undeniable proof!
Good advice, I'm 70 and have been repairing small engines since early 1960s. I like the videos. They will help a lot of people.
Great video! Ethanol in fuel is a total menace isn't it? Not only is it hygroscopic but it destroys so many rubber parts. Even with a fuel tap, the tank will breath with the temperature cycling and pull moisture in.
My favourite mistake is thinking I'll use the thing once more and so not drain it and then forget until the next year.
Yes, I put a shut off on my mowers but also a filter as well. Mow the lawn, dirt and everything else goes flying in the air, covers the mower, especially around the filler cap, and dirt goes in and doesn't come out, and clogs the needle. Now, no more clogs. So I recommend both, especially when you have to work on it.
The number 1 thing I tell people that bring me engines for carb work is if you can find non ethanol gas buy it for all your small engines. Ethanol absorbs water in the air which causes phase separation, that’s why you see so many carburetors gum up and even start to corrode.
Thanks so much for sharing. I usually use Sta bil with ethanol shield. Never had a problem.
Makes more sense now why I’ve seen rust form inside the float bowl before. I have a Honda walk behind and never use the fuel shutoff that it came equipped with 🙄 maybe I’ll start 😁 thanks for the helpful video!! 🤟
I agree, I’ve always “closed down” small motors by turning off the fuel. Other tips are: always clean your air filter; change the oil at least every 50 hours of use (shorter if it’s a 2 stroke); sharpen the blades of mowers regularly; sharpen the chain saw chains; keep the thing clean, you can spot problems before they get big; go over the nuts and bolts regularly (or use Loc title or lock nuts; hit the threads of bolts with oil or WD40 regularly, to stop rusting.
How do you change oil on a 2 stroke
@Philadelphia19147 I change the oil on my 2 stroke engines every time I fill the fuel tank. 😊
All good advice. Clean, sharpen and oil after you finish the job, not before you start the next one.
As for changing 2 stroke oil without changing the fuel, add some degreaser? Pour the fuel back into the mixer bottle, shake it backwards and pour the oil off the top? I guess if you mixed 100 gallons of 1:25 when it should have been 1:40 you could freeze the oil out.
Great Tip - Thanks for sharing!
Great tip for those who don't know👍🏻 all my riding mowers/garden tractors have a fuel shutoff valve. If they didn't come with one, I installed one within the first month of owning it!
As you said, if you'll use it. My elderly neighbor bought a 1 year old crapsman rider 14 years ago when it had 6 hours on it. Still has under 30 hours on it this year. Anyway, almost every year I have to clean its carb. (She'll use it once or twice and let it sit the next 10 months with gas in it) about 8 years ago its nikki carb was corroded beyond cleaning, and when I replaced the carb, I installed a shutoff valve. She used the shutoff valve properly that first year and never since🤬 oh well... I tried🤷♂️😅
OUTSTANDING advice for your clientelle. Shows that you have strong ethics and morals. You are absolutely the type of mechanic more people should bring their equipment to. Its always better to give your customers little hints like this to help them save money on the "little things", which (as you and i both know), cause many unnecessary problems and more expensive repairs. This helps you concentrate on the more "legitimate", complex repairs, instead of the annoying ones that wouldn't happen if people would just learn what "operator maintenance" means, and how to do it.
It seems to me that the main reason ANY customer gets mad at the repair shop is that when you tell them that what started out as a "simple" repair, has BALLOONED into an expensive, parts replacement nightmare, they are realizing that you are actually telling them that its THEIR FAULT (which it is, and they know it).
@@charliepatterson9321no friggin way would I give my doctor permission to do as he feels is necessary without my knowledge . Thats just sheer lunacy!
Thanks For Always Helping Us Wanta Be Mechanics !
Wooop! I did something smart. Got my first riding mower couple seasons ago and heard I should install a fuel shutoff. Super cheap fix.
I met the owner of B3C Fuel Solutions a few years ago. I real passionate chemist and cool dude to talk to and learn. Started using their products and have not been disappointed. Also installed that exact manual shut off valve because solenoids fail. Love your content and passion for sharing!
I have a 1993 Snapper push mower with the B & S flathead that's still going strong. I always treat my gas with StaBil and let it run out at the end of the season. It usually starts right up in the spring.. if not, a little starting fluid works wonders 👍 Thanks for the info 👌😀
I install a 3-way valve just upstream of the shut off. Just before starting I draw off a little gas into a glass jar to check for water. There’s almost always some there.
I’ve used sta-bil for decades and it works. I have also worked on small engines for decades and I will say 90 plus percent of small engine problems are bad old fuel.
LOVE THAT SHIRT! I added a fuel shutoff on my 2006 Snapper, after I found the crankcase full of gasoline. I close it and run it dry after every use. It cranks on the 3rd pull every time. Oh yeah, I took out the electrical starting system and all the safety crap too. It's been a great machine and still going strong 17 years later.
I"ve been installing shut offs for years also,eliminates 75% of problems.Great info for those who don"t know.Keep up the good work!
Having been in the liquid fuel business for42 + years I can say that all liquid fuels dispensed from a refinery or storage is called low E fuel designed to be used within 24 hrs.Originaly designed for around cities to lessen emissions it have migrated to the public.As far as LP or bottled nat gas they to have an issue allow by the government (up to 20%)of inert liquids to be used as a filler.We in the business refer this to what's called (wet gas).
"these (carburetors) work like a toilet" LOL!! The first time I've heard that!
Good advice, indeed. I bought a new snowblower recently, and was shocked to find it had no fuel cutoff valve. Very annoying, and there's no room to install one. Also, when it comes to the fuel itself, I go to the local airport and buy 5 or 6 gallons of 100LL avgas- no alcohol. I treat it with Sta-bil right away, and use it on ALL of my small engines.
Avgas is stabile up to about 10 years on its own.
@@DblIre I have heard that- and I have had some experience with old leaded automotive gas going back many years (the gas, that is) that was still quite usable, but I am a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy.
After spending multiples of what I spent to buy a mower on repairs, I am so grateful I found your channel. Subscribed.
Absolutely brilliant ! Thank you !
Was doing some research on a John D riding mower, 30 minutes or so later, you came up as a "you might like to watch' from TH-cam. I hit subscribe before you even mentioned it - I like your attitude and content. As the terminator said, "I'll be back"!
The shut off is needed in a gravity feed supply system. If you have a pump feed system it is not as important but still a good idea. A sight glass and water trap/drain would be a good addition.
Great video! It's something I probably wouldn't have thought of. Fortunately, everything I own has a shut off valve.
One thing I'd like to mention, and it's a bit unorthodox; I don't use fuel stabilizers but every spring I add a little bit of acetone to the fuel. It absorbs moisture and, being a great solvent, removes any varnish that may have built up. I've been doing this for years and I've never had a problem. I even use it in my gas fueled cars to keep the injectors clean. I use about 1 gallon of acetone per 25 gallons of gasoline (about 4% mixture).
From information I've been able to find, Acetone also helps the fuel vaporize and raises the octane rating of the fuel.
How much does a gallon cost and where can you buy it? Thanks
You can buy water finding paste to check for water in your fuel. We use it all the time at work for checking fuel station tanks for water. You just spread it thin on a stick and it will turn colour on contact with water instantly. They make it for regular gas and ethanol blends, some do both. (the ethanol essentially coats the water so the regular paste won't detect it all the time)
Best thing I ever did was add this 10 years ago on my riding mower. I shut the fuel off and let it run until it stops. Works like a charm.
Serendipity! Several years ago I pulled a big pressure washer out of winter storage and found the crankcase was full of water! OH NOES the pump must have cracked when it froze…but the pump was okay and the pressure washer worked fine and still does. I never could figure that out.
Just found your channel and enjoyed this video. I only started working on outdoor power equipment a few years ago for my stuff/friends & family and I thought it odd that I was seeing equipment without fuel shutoff +/- fuel filters. I thought it was only about running a carb dry, imagine my surprise to learn I was inadvertently also saving engines from a world of hurt! Thanks for taking me to school- Greetings from Ontario, Canada!
I wish I had seen this ten years ago. I learned this the hard way plus a lot of labor. Thanks for the video. You are in my favorites.
Had a bunch of fuel go bad this year in Jerry cans and in bikes tanks. Some of the "fresh" regular gas I've gotten doesn't pass the sniff test, couple months in a can and you can pour a cup and ask anyone and they'll guess paint or lacquer, I'm amazed my van runs on that crap, but you gotta travel to next town and pay another buck a gallon for no cornsyrup gas. I'll use regular sometimes if I'm sure I'll run it all through mower immediately. Anyhow, glad to find this Chanel! Cool community and content.
I have been operating small engines for 40 years, She is dead on.
I learned more about carbourators in this video then I did in a semester in vo-ag tearing down a small engine! Or maybe it just makes more sense because I'm the one paying when things go wrong! Thanks for this great tip.
Ok..Heres my idea..First buy a real Mr. Funnel to seperate water and junk to all fuel tanks..Second..Use Star Tron Fuel Enzyme treatment for gas and also works on diesel fuel..All small engines run the fuel to dry for extra protection..0w20-30-40 Syn Oil and 2 cycle oil when required...
We always run the mower out of gas. Good advise.
Thank you posting these videos!! I have learned SO MUCH!! We have so many broken down equipment here and usually end up replacing everything. You have given me the confidence to break out my toolbox and tackle them one by one!!! My husband is not a "fixer"...😂😂😂. So, keep up the good work!!!
Why is it your husbands job at all?
Why even mention him.
If a man did the same thing abiut a cooking and his wife all you fruit cakes would call it mysonagist.
You go for it Betty. If Bre can do it then so can you. Just take your time, work in a methodical manner and a manual always helps. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Great addition for units which I find myself trying to empty of fuel each autumn. Word of advice for all: Do not use ethanol in your small engines if you can avoid it. I use only high-octane REC fuel, 0% ethanol 👍
REC fuel? I use 93 octane in my lawn equipment also because of the ethanol in regular.
So where exactly would you put the shut off valve? I’m new to working on my mower so excuse my ignorance. I know it goes on the fuel line but where.
@@janetriggle1011between the fuel tank and the carburetor.
It's the alcohol that deteriorates everything including metals since alcohol is hygroscopic which promotes metal corrosion. Alcohol also absorbs into organic materials like paper gaskets and other materials that have an organic ingredients in them and this makes them brittle by dissolving into them. The best solution as you stated is to have a fuel shut off and then drain out the float bowl then pull start motor several times to draw out remaining fuel.
Modern E10 fuel should be stored in a HDPE canister that is air tight to prevent absorbing water from air and loss of lighter distillates from evaporation. I've stored this type of fuel in said containers for years and they always run when stored this way.
A little gas in bowl will gel and shellac. Need to drain for long storage
I'll say this, you had taught me how to! and it's saved me a lot of money by repairing it myself. And I thank you for it.
Glad I could help!
I ran a boat tour business in Maine for 25 years using a variety of 90 hp outboard engines…both 2 stroke and 4 stroke. I was meticulous about fueling the boat and made sure that old fuel did not accumulate in the tank. One day I bought 10 gals of gas at the local gas station and set off on a tour. One mile from the dock my engine quit and I had to be towed back. I got a glass jar, removed the end of the fuel pickup hose from the engine and pumped a half quart of fuel into the jar. It was pure water! I then had to spend several hours totally emptying my 27 gallon tank by squeezing the fuel line primer bulb. Worse yet after paying $2 a gallon to have the fuel reconditioned by the outboard dealer I was told I could not use it in my boat but had to add it by the half gallon when I filled up my pickup truck fuel tank. Not long afterwards I spent $25 for a special water separating fuel funnel that lets gas through but not water. Best $25 I have ever spent!
Do you have a link for that water seperator
If you use ethanol gas you won't have that problem. I've had water separators on boats for years and they work. Once ethanol in gas became a thing no need for the separators any more.
Thank you I’m Mike and I’m 65 years old and like your videos. I to work on small equipment and you help a lot,So Thank you. ✌️
I have a thing called Mr. Funnel. It is a funnel with a very fine mesh brass filter that lets gasoline flow through it but it blocks and traps water. It has become a Spring routine for me to filter any stored gas from one tank into another to make sure I get rid of any water. It is satisfying to catch the problem before it happens.
Yeah, the water starts at the gas station inside the tanks below ground. It's usually due to rainfall. Years ago, I used to go around removing that water from various gas stations throughout the day. It's a fairly simple process. We used a very long steel pipe that would touch the bottom of the tank and syphon from there. Probably the same process in your gas can, I suppose.
But if the station is putting water in your gas, that probably means (in most cases, anyway) they're too cheap to pay for this regular maintenance. I recommend not using them in the future to get your gas.
If a fuel supply tanker has just filled, or is filling the station's tank, avoid that station for a while. The water in the bottom of the tank can be churned up during the tanker's filling process and allow "bottom water" to be pumped into YOUR tank along with the fuel you are expecting.
@@oleran4569 Well, that would likely depend on how deep their pumping hoses/pipes reach down into the tank. If it's reaching toward the bottom, that would be moot, as the water is heavier than the fuel.
Hello Chickanic. Glad to see you're doing well - as always. Thanks for sharing your advice regarding small engine manufacturers. 😁😉
I been using fuel shut offs for many many years and my motor cycles, tractors and small motors all start right up in the spring…turn the valve off run carbs dry …also I remove batteries and put them on a good battery tender ,they work.🇺🇸😎
A old friend of mine told me about this years ago. Never knew what he meant. But he would say when you are done cutting, “Run it Dry”. I was like what?!? So he explained and I do it every single time. I install mine right before the fuel pump. No problems. I may need to get a new one.
Always use fuel shutoff whenever i can, and running engine out of gas is excellent as well as the ethanol shield, good stuff bre, thank you.👍👍
A friend of mine had a boat and motor repair shop. He told me 75% of the motor problems was gas related. Enjoy your videos!
I always delete fuel shutoff solenoids on every piece of equipment I work on. I get a shallow bolt with the appropriate thread pitch, make a gasket for the bolt, and install a manual fuel shutoff.
I had a John Deere L111 that just happened to have the only japanese-made carburetor. The solenoid went bad and I priced them at $60 so I said nope and I proceeded to find a bolt that would fit that hole that was short enough and of course with a petroleum resistant gasket. I then got a $5 shutoff valve and with 2 adjustable hose clamps I cut the fuel line in half and installed the shut-off switch. When I got done mowing I would turn the shut-off switch to off and allow the engine to die then turn the key off. It worked great was cheap and easy to install.
Just started watching your videos. Great lessons. No longer afraid to repair small engines. Keep up the great work. Your a great teacher.
Robert Kuschel 😊
Great advice! I do this always, and I also added T-fittings and another valve to make draining old gas easy. When something won't start or run, the FIRST thing to do is use fresh gas.
Collosal THANKS to Awesome Chickanic for this Most Wise Tip of advice. Adding them valve's ASAP.😎🏄
Love your shirt
I've just discovered your channel and find it very informative. Living on the Gulf Coast, with its very high humidity, condensation is always a problem. I am fortunate to have non-ethanol gasoline available from Conoco, which I use exclusively in my cars, trucks, and lawn equipment. For my lawn tractor, I add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. I've had no gasoline related issues, but the fuel cutoff you recommend is a good idea. The only real issues I've had is with two-cycle engines, which will gum up (especially over the winter), and there's no way to run them dry. Here in SW Louisiana, non-ethanol stations are available, but are in the minority. Thank goodness for Conoco, which is top-tier. I never buy ethanol gas - never.