People - don't over think it..... I just use my 4200 PSI pressure washer (0 degree tip) with Dawn dish washing liquid (filled up in a bucket used to mix tile grout) followed up by a Brillo pad along with a Scotchbrite sponge to get those stubborn June bugs off. I use the dried up beach towel from the spare tire well (complete with beach sand and small sea shells) to dry it off after I've let the sun do most of the work. I usually "wax" it with NuFinish every 5-7 years if the paint looks a little dull... Just kidding - great video (as always) Scott and stay safe with that storm coming!
Hi Scott! I love the fact that you tell the truth! Finally an honest youtube detailer! Many are afraid of using acidic or alcaline products. Used right it will not hurt the paint. However, if left on the paint, it might do some damage. When you think you have rinsed the product off, rinse once or twice more to be ultra safe. Greetings from Norway
Right. Skip the spray wax. Find a sealant that can resist a non-pH neutral detergent. Determine when the sealant is losing effectiveness, or noad contamination is excessive, clean the finish and reapply.
That's my takeaway. Spray wax is counter productive. A high durability synthetic sealant (Duragloss, FK1000p etc etc) should handle dish soap for a couple months, right?. Wash it well with dawn and dry. Rewax every couple washes. Problem?
Rather than use a leaf blower or buffing the spray wax in, I like to mist the car with spray wax while it's still wet and then dry it with only the most minimal towel pressure, which simultaneously thins out the wax to the point where it dries and the streaks evaporate.
You are 110% correct in your philosophy Ive had the same thought process on this. But you just set it in stone by making this video. Thank you. We are intelligent species.
Welp....the "chemicals" I use to wash the Big Rigs are what is called a Two-step..... apply a low pH acid followed by a high pH soap.... this two-step breaks the magnetic bond of the road film from the surface without using a brush and if you add hot water on the rinsing, boy o boy....and these chemicals can be used on passenger cars as well....However, you need the right equipment to apply all this stuff.... downstream injectors etc etc....... also there may be at times when you might have to break out the brush......Chemistry Chemistry
Mario montes I recently got with chem-x and they offer this two step process. It has been one of the best processes I’ve ever used. I do have two bottles so I put the chemical undiluted in the foamer. I will not touch the paint unless I do a 100 rag wash. I just blow the water off and go about my day. Mainly I only do this when it’s cold and I want to get the salt off.
My theory is that the film you are talking about sits on top of the sealant and is quite easy to remove with most normal soaps. Even tar etc that is visible is usually easy to get of with just a mitt and normal car wash as long as it has not dried too long and/or is on a surface with no protection.
The issue i think is that once there is some missed spots of traffic film for reasons such as (it is older and baked on, or not using the wash mitt aggressively enough on the lower third of the car for fear of scratching it) then new sealant or wax is used trapping it and bonding it to the clear coat where it can degrade the clear coat over time hidden, protected with a layer of wax on top of it even when weekly washes are done because the soap is ph neutral and cant get through the waxes to the layer of junk behind the clear coat.
Imho, it's pretty simple tbh.. As the video title said, The key word is 'regular maintenance'. If you're doing it for instance once a week at least, your ph netral soap will degrade all those oily films, 'layer by layer' each time you do a car wash. And if there is a layer of wax underneath, it's even better. That's why everytime we wash the car, we'll notice the old stubborn dirt or anything on the paint will break drown more and more. Just like you said, don't overthink it.. :D
Thanks Scott! I bought a new black car 4yrs ago and Ive seen every scenario Scott describes. I had to become a detective of sorts to finally come to the conclusion that I only needed to follow a few rules to keep from killing myself when it comes to keeping my daily looking great. Where I live we have a good water supply but are hammered by industry and fallout. The crazy things I witnessed on my clearcoat while trying to maintain/save the best sealants with ph neutral washes was a frustrating experience. Now--2 bucket wash w/ Purple Power,-electric blower and a good spray sealant once a week on a properly machined polished clearcoat is money in the bank. Cutting the hype!
Scott, you remind me of the Amsoil 25,000 oil change. I had never heard of Amsoil until 2 years ago. It's an oil that doesn't need to be changed until you hit 25,000 miles. Wait. What?! When you hear that you can buy an oil that lasts 25,000 miles and you don't need to change it until you hit that number and will not harm your car is mind blowing! Most people can't let go of that magic 3,000 mile oil change interval in their head and way of thinking. They think if you don't change your oil at 3,000 miles that you're a bad man, a very bad man. You Scott, like Amsoil , have destroyed my conventional thinking that washing my car with a ph neutral soap is doing my dirty car some good. But nooooo! You have destroyed my brain by saying that washing my car with a ph neutral soap is crazy and not doing any good. Wait. What!? And then you say I have to use 30 grit sandpaper to remove all the contaminants. Ok you didn't say that. But you might as well have said that! J/K But you must use a ph of 10ish to get the grime. It seems to make sense. But how do we reconcile the cognitive dissonance within our thinking that says, Hey my car is dirty I need to clean it. But when you clean it, you're not actually cleaning it. Whoa! Boom! Brain meltdown! Break out the Belt Sander and the 30 grit sandpaper. I'll get that traffic film if it kills the little turtles in my wax! LOL Love your videos Scott. Keep up the good, no, great work.
You are absolutely right. What I do is rinse the vehicle using pressure washer to remove loose debris. Then I spray TFR and let it dwell on the body to dissolve the traffic film. Then I'll wash it off and use snow foam. Followed by a mitt wash using strong cleaner. Then blow dry using leaf blower. Finish off with a spray wax to protect the paint.
I do not think so. you said it. That you are just washing, you are not removing the contaminants from the paint. Well, that's what I think. I'm confused now. And I'm just going into the detailing business. I think I have to read more my products and do more insights on the products I am using.
If I understand correctly.. Wax does not protect the paint. The clearcoat does. Wax give you the shine or "POP" your looking for. For paint enhancements. If the car is really dirty, all steps are required. Wash (w/ph soap), clay, apply favorite sealer. If car not very dirty. Wash (w/ph neutral soap), then dry. When it's time to reapply sealer. Wash (w/ph soap), apply sealer. No need to clay if you've been keeping the car and not let bonded contaminates (road film) build up. Scott, please correct me if I'm working. Just a newbie here trying to understand
Purple Power Vehicle and Boat Wash then apply a good spray wax. Car will always be 100% decontaminated and 100% waxed. Megs Ultimate Quick Wax (black bottle, not red bottle) Turtle Wax Ice (spray) or Megs Ultimate Fast Finish are the best.
The best thing about a white, silver, yellow or other light colored car finishes is that they look clean when washed with minimal additional work. Wax shine, swirl-marks, etc. don't show up as much as they do on darker colored cars so just a quick wash is usually all you need. A white or light colored car, just washed, looks great without any extra steps. I've had great success with the Meguires Ultimate Car Wash & Wax (yellow liquidated) then a quick spray wax-n-buff with the Meguires Ultimate Spray Wax every three or four washes to heighten the gloss. This works very well for my dark colored cars (Navy blue metallic and Red pearl metallic finishes) BTW, hope you escaped hurricane Harvey. Thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected for a fast recovery.
Can't argue with your points...agreed. But I'd say the term "maintenance wash" means (to me at least) simply a basic weekly wash just to get typical daily driving crud off the car. I pressure rinse, foam, rinse, contact wash, distilled rinse and air dry. And a detail spray wax every couple months. I don't do strips or decon really at all, and my cars look great for years. Of course, I live in Florida so dont have nasty winters/infrequent washes due to cold weather either. Oh, and I use the Worx pressure washer to do my final distilled rinse. Love it!
I have applied a sealant on my brand new car when I bought it last may, and for the whole summertime I have washed my car with soap and water only once and then used nothing else but a waterless wash product. I had absolutely no problem removing tar from the paint when there was some of it quite easily, therefore it proves that as long as you have applied a sealant, using any kind of soap will remove traffic film. That's my humble opinion.
Looking forward to your view on what "Joe blow" car owner who washes his car here and there should do to wash the car. I really enjoy your videos thanks for putting in the time to make them.
pH neutral soap will not remove the road film, so you use stronger soap that removes the road film but also the wax, now you have to reapply the layer of wax that you just removed.
I understand all of that. We have this problem with fine leather and harness in our stable. For cars, the intention is to preserve the paint. For us, it is to preserve the leather because tack is extremely expensive but can last for decades if properly cared for. Which means we have to get the salt off the leather after every use and not apply leather dressing unless the leather is fully cleaned of salt, horse hair, dust, dirt etc. Otherwise, we will only seal the salt between the top of the leather and the bottom of the dressing. Not putting wax on top of road film makes sense to me. I wash the car with ph neutral soap to preserve the wax which is on it. I don't have a big blower to dry it so I dry it by hand with clean micro fibre towels. I do no more in regular washings except have the undercarriage fully power washed to get any road salt off at the end of winter. Three times a year, the car goes to the professional detail shop to be washed and waxed and all surfaces which require it, applied with preservatives against sun damage. The car lives in a garage when not in use. It's now seven years old and looks like it did the day it was taken out of the show room. What am I doing which I shouldn't do and what should I be doing that I'm not doing. I'd bring it to Dallas but I'm near Philly and that's a long way to drive to get an assessment! How do I know as a consumer that what the detail people do to it is what's right to protect the life of the paint and the seal coat? The advice in the videos is great!
Got me. Am just an ole practically lame gal on fixed sm income. who just bought a used 2004 Dodge Dakota Quad with a beautiful color paint job. Trying to figure out how to maintain it's very nice condition in and out, given my limitations. REALLY ENJOY all your videos, Scott. Seem like an ace of a good man. Blessings.
Hi Scott, I am confused now - but my reasoning is you don't have to understand everything, just use the recommended stuff follow the steps and it'll turn out fine. You can tell I'm not a detailer cant you, just want my car to look great. Keep the videos coming I love you and can't wait for next one.
I feel like I've got an idea of where you are going with this and it seems to be the only logical answer for people who are going to clean their cars on a weekly basis anyways. Wash the car with a foaming degreaser, get rid of old wax and new road film, rinse, blow dry, and spray wax. Spray wax isn't as durable or "protective" as traditional waxes/sealants but you are washing your car (and typically finishing with a spray wax) anyways... badda bing, less steps, more clean, still protected, it's a realistic approach. Still feels wrong to not wax the car and treat that as your top surface (vice clear coat+ spray wax) but we all know wax doesn't really protect anything, it's all about looks, and if you can get a good, durable shine for 1 week+ and can't tell a different between spray and (brand name product) then why bother going through the accepted status quo process with all it's logical errors?
In his other video I think his concerns of protection were related to UV light damage. I still think wax offers protection - in my case it helps prevent water spots by beading water which falls off the car better. It also makes things less likely to stick to the car, and it makes stuff come off easier - I would call that protection. Sealants probably also help prevent scratching of the real clear coat when using a wash mitt.
Whiskey Gunner- You talk as if you know, but I'm not so sure about this statement: "we all know wax doesn't really protect anything" My understanding is that paint protection, whether it's natural or synthetic is there to protect the paint. Is this wrong? What will help keep stuff from sticking to the paint? What will help control penetration of salt air by the ocean? If paint protectants don't actually do anything but make it shine, then where can we find a true paint protectant?
Scott , we listen to you bud. As large as the viewer base is that you have , you give us phenomial information. You will always have more positive feedback than negative. There will always be those ' haters ' no matter what you do. It's just life man. Keep the spirits high . Keep up the good work because this video brought alot of attention to how things are done. I know I won't be the only one. I watch all of the uploads so keep them coming !
So, if you clayed it 2 weeks prior and you're doing a maintenance wash, would you use a soap that would remove the road grime then do the spray wax? If you clayed it 2 weeks ago, would it really need it again? Or, would you just use a the soap and not worry about the wax? I'm just a car owner who likes to be informed and loves your videos.
What an amazing perspective !...most of us car buffs never think of this...especially about applying spray wax after the wash... was know I’ve done it many times...
When I started using high quality soaps, this same thing crossed my mind. I was thinking what's the point of this shit if it's not really cleaning the surface?
I got your point Scott! Get your soap out in the market, and thanks, I’ve learned so much from you. My neighbors bust on me for having the absolute shiniest vehicle in our community. Hell, I tell my wife to put her sun glasses on at night when she’s near our car. Keep up the great videos!!
I know what you are getting at, and for me a maintenance wash is just that, a quick and fast get-it-done asap weekly wash. I tend to rush my personal cars on the weekends sometimes when I'm strapped for time. Just get the base level of grime off, and spray some quick wax, dry, and be done with it. What you are talking about here is doing something like a pre-spray with an apc or some mild alkaline cleaner to strip grease and oil on a weekly basis. Which as we know will quickly diminish your lsp/wax/sealant. Personally I feel it's worth the trade off to keep a bit of longevity with my sealant instead so I only have to reapply it every few months. I don't have time to reapply weekly or bi-weekly.
Scott, always watch your videos & love your point of view. I have a question, are maintenance washes worth it when doing mobile detailing? I find these type of customers expecting more.
Hopefully this is followed up with a proper maintenance wash video? Because yeah.. I do exactly what you did in the start of this video. Its just not practical to claybar and polish the car every time and start with a fresh base... From your recent soap video I'm thinking the best practice is a non-neutral pH soap to wash and a spray on sealant for after? I still think a spray on product helps prevent fallout from sticking to the car.
Scott great video that's exactly what I do as well. So my question is cause I was trying to see if you made a video on how to properly clean the car. Do you put a ounce of super clean into a bucket of water and soap to wash it? I have Sean lots of time oily film as I clean a car in the past my self.
On your own vehicles, do you use purple power every wash? For example each week? Kind of defeats the purpose of using the Megs UFF if you're taking it off every week if that's how you're using it. Just curious if you do this every once in a while on your vehicles or do it every week.
Ok so what do you suggest we clean our cars with. Meguires degreasers. APC? Please make a video on what you think is the proper solution. And let’s see the results. The difference should be noticeable right? Anyway great video. Keep up the great work
This video is 100% facts. The truth of auto detailing industry. Very toxic. Keep doing what you do boss. Hope people that has common sense and a brain to take notes.
Scott, I didn't see any beading on the windshield.....just saying Great video, I see where you were going with it and it makes a lot of sense. Knowing that most anyone watching this video uses some sort of paint protection as an LSP whether its a spray wax or a spray sealant for lubrication while drying and extra protection why not use a soap that is a little more aggressive to break down the oils from the road.
I never thought of that , thanks for pointing this out. I do just what u did. Never look at it that way. Thanks for this. Now what's the correct way. Is there a video?
Old video, but hey, I'll comment on it. Strip wash and spray sealant or spray wax throughout the year, but when winter come and might not wash your car for 2 months, this is when a higher quality paint sealant would be more benificial? You know, those ones that say they last 6+ months. Apply quality sealant on your last wash to add a layer of protection, then when weather gets better, fully strip it all off and go back to strip washing and spray sealant. Sound about right?
I have watched your video regarding traffic film. So from your videos wat i hv understood is , " always do a strip wash even if sealant is there, and redo the sealent after every strip wash. Doesnt matter how durable ur sealent is . So better buy a cheap sealant which lasts just till your next wash. " Am i right Scott ?
Thanks for the great videos. You have a valid theory but the challenge is that most people don't have the time to do a complete wash, clay, and wax/seal every other weekend. If you can show how to do this quickly but correctly I think you'll win over the masses.
MurphTX Exactly the point. Hopefully Scott has the answer of how to rid the grime and leave the wax/sealant. Also, I live in the north. I'm using a car wash for months of the year but when I do get to wash my car, I want to do it right.
Going back to washing snd detailing my own cars since the CA drought is over. Looking forward to more videos on maintenance washing before I buy the Purple Power Vehicle and Boat product. But it looks good so far.
i will..i just wanted to open some minds and get people thinking...hell i had to do it on my own and figure it out:)...i am also in the process of getting a patent on a soap i created..if you can be patient i will share all in due time but i understand your point of view:)...i love you on the channel and thanks for always being so kind with your comments...much love John
Dennis Menace start by using Purple Power RV & Boat Wash. it’ll strip a wax or sealant off if you use enough of it. Dry with a leaf blower so your not touching your unsealed panels add a sealant too it and presto! Give it time to cure and you can add another layer.
Scott, one question will meguiars wash plus soap work the same as purple power vehicle and boat soap? Keep them videos coming much love from San Diego CA
That is and was GREAT, except for one thing. You didn't tell us what was the right way and is there a Ph [right] soap to use that will break the contaminant bond without touch? Meguiar's Wash Plus seems to remove EVERYTHING, but you have to touch it and re-seal and wax. So is there a RIGHT way available - other than the two step process with special equipment as mentioned by the guy cleaning big rigs in the comment below?
An interesting conundrum! I think I’ll wash my car with meguiars wash + to start fresh, wax the car, and then just do “ph balanced” washes in between the full waxes even if it leaves the traffic film... until I’m ready for another full fresh start wash/wax.
Mr. Scott I used to detail cars back in the 80s in the early 90s and then I had a health problem and so I had to quit so I'm trying to get back into it so I'm watching your videos they help me out I like to send you a donated van show you what it looks like I've watched everything else you have I will continue to watch you and no one else
Maybe the answer you want us to use is Paint Prep. Because even APC Doesnt work as good as it should after washing and clay. Greatings from Venezuela Country.
I actually only apply sealant and wax evry 6 months when I do a full exterior detail. During maintenance washes I just wash with soap with wax in it and thats it. The only part of my car that I fully detail every maintenance wash are my wheels.
So... every maintenance wash Rinse Foam pre wash ( to remove surface loose contaminants) touchless Rinse Purple power car and boat wash (with mit?) Rinse Foam with ph soap ( just as added step ) and extra rinse just to help potentially neutralize the pH of purple Power Power car and boat wash Touchless Blow Dry then apply fresh paint sealant.
Is there a certain ph level that will remove road film but not a wax? Or are you getting at that we should just strip and rewax every other week when I clean my car?
A maintenance wash is just simply a maintenance wash and not a full blown detail. That’s why you don’t try to get every single thing on one you leave it for the other. By logical extension we would be detailing our cars every time we go to wash them because there is some thing we left out.
Hi buddy, have you ever used Nu- Finish ??, some really helpful tips, I cleaned my works mini bus windows yesterday after washing all the minibus and the other drivers couldn’t believe how much time I spent on the windows alone but they were shocked at how clean the glass is, one driver thought the windows were down, keep the tips and hints coming
How often should you remove traffic film? What should a maintenance wash look like Should I get my car detailed, to get it fully cleaned? This is mind boggling.
This video is almost philosophical, to protect the sealant or kill everything with soap. I know this is two years old but to me the answer would be using a sealant that protects the paint from the road film and every six months use a soap that completely decontaminates the car, then reapply the products. But the average driver doesn't really think about this, hell even using a wax is something that maybe 20% of car owners do.
Vous connaissez votre job , cela se sent...., voila pourquoi j'aime vos tutos. Bravo Scott you're not wrong . Ph neutral soap don't remove trafic film.totally agree with you . Have a good day from Martinique carribean 10.54pm 18 mai2024
Is a high pH soap REALLY safe for the clear coat in the long run. Wouldn't it strip too much of the natural oil's out of the clear coat when you use it regularly. Hence why MOST/ALL auto detailing manufacturer's sell pH neutral to protect themselves from possible long term damage from selling stronger products. I love efficiency and easier solutions but just want to make sure your theory is founded in fact, before people accidentally ruin the-clearcoat, plastics, rubbers etc.. thinking they are using a better method.
How would you price maintance washes??? Or how do those packages work? I'm trying to offer it for my detailing business and thanks for all the great content we love you Scott
erik estrada I’m currently struggling with determining what pricing and services for maintenance washes. I was wondering what you decided for your packages?
I don’t know! Then why use a wax or seal the paint? Is it not the job of a wax and sealer to protect the paint and create a slick Service on the car paint so that the traffic film slides off and won’t stick? Water beads so why not oil and other fallout?
Does the sealant make the traffic film not adhere to the paint? So when we maintenance wash doesn't the traffic film fall off cause the sealant is slick and a coating ontop of the paint? Or no?
Also to add to this i weekly wash my vehicle with purple Power vehicle and boat wash and I lose my wax and sealing and just reapply Meguiar's Ultimate fast finish every week as recommended by Scott.
When I was a kid, there was a pill that you chewed after brushing your teeth. It would stain the remaining tarter on your teeth so you could see where you didn’t brush completely. Too bad there’s not a similar product to reveal the invisible contaminants on a car.
I think the answer is to accept that having a spotless clean car is cyclic, does it need to be at the top detail every day of the week?... for me its no... its kind of like going to the barber, do I go once a week ? No . I go when I feel the need or start to look shaggy and yes it gives you a boost to have it done much the same as having a really clean car. What ido is with our latest,/best car is do the full detail and when it gets dirty go to the car wash - spray it with bug soap/cleaner from the machine and wheels as well, then power rinse it , if the water beads there is still sealant, I use the wax spray from the machine the rinseless wash. I do not touch the car with any wash mit brush etc only clean using jets at the carwash, it takes about 15min and max 10 euro giving the the wheels a double go over because they are hard to get clean but I suppose using a brush on the rims would be good. Yes i suppose the traffic film may not be removed but at least it is not rubbed into the paint, top coat.... all the layers of contamination would then be removed when the car is fully detailed.
Would Meguiar's Wash Plus clean road film? You recommended it as a strip type wash a couple of months ago and I have used for that purpose with good result.
now your just being silly...let me ask you a question..if you had ky jelly on your hands and you wanted to remove it, would you reach for more ky jelly and water to remove the ky jelly you already have on your hands?...the car soap is highly lubricated (everyone loves that plus all that suds)you also apply very little pressure with your favorite soft and plush wash mitt and you gently glide across the panel...what could you possibly remove from the panel BUT loose dirt and nothing else:)..why don't you ask the wax or sealant company for the proof that their said wax has "POLYMERS" that actually protect your paint from uv light and if you wanted maximum protection from uv light how often should you apply their product?...what if the waxes we are all buying are just jars of oil that give you water beading and can fill the panel to give you a glossy and shiny finish?...lets look at the product called meguiars ultimate fast finish, on the can and on the outside of the box it will tell you the said called wax will last 100 car washes...this is a huge hint by them..if your only using a ph neutral soap and water why would it only last 100 washes?..why would meguiars even mention the wash cycle at all?....remember meguirs knows you will be using a ph neutral soap and that you will be using a soft wash mitt and applying very little pressure:)...what is actually removing the wax after 100 washes?...i would love your thoughts
so basically looking for a soap that can remove traffic film but not removing the sealant/wax. maybe dilute the purple power to a degree so it wont move wax but traffic film???
After wash with pH shampoo simply use Quick Detailer With good Cleaning abilities contains no protection you already use Megs Ultimate Fast Finish then you need to use UQD .
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People - don't over think it.....
I just use my 4200 PSI pressure washer (0 degree tip) with Dawn dish washing liquid (filled up in a bucket used to mix tile grout) followed up by a Brillo pad along with a Scotchbrite sponge to get those stubborn June bugs off. I use the dried up beach towel from the spare tire well (complete with beach sand and small sea shells) to dry it off after I've let the sun do most of the work. I usually "wax" it with NuFinish every 5-7 years if the paint looks a little dull...
Just kidding - great video (as always) Scott and stay safe with that storm coming!
İ was in a dull mood today, but after reading your comment I am now smiling and feeling amused. Thank you for the injection of fun in to the day.
So what do I use. I'm not a pro yet trying to get there but y'all confuse me a lot.
after seeing 4200 psi i started laughing
Hi Scott! I love the fact that you tell the truth! Finally an honest youtube detailer!
Many are afraid of using acidic or alcaline products. Used right it will not hurt the paint. However, if left on the paint, it might do some damage. When you think you have rinsed the product off, rinse once or twice more to be ultra safe.
Greetings from Norway
What's your update after all these years, do you still feel this is the best way to clean the car by using a pH10 soap?
I just wanted to thank you for being so honest and forward with sharing your knowledge!
Right. Skip the spray wax. Find a sealant that can resist a non-pH neutral detergent. Determine when the sealant is losing effectiveness, or noad contamination is excessive, clean the finish and reapply.
i like that:)...that could work but perhaps we can all come up with a better solution
Is there a sealant out there that won't be removed with a non pH neutral soap??
That's my takeaway. Spray wax is counter productive. A high durability synthetic sealant (Duragloss, FK1000p etc etc) should handle dish soap for a couple months, right?. Wash it well with dawn and dry. Rewax every couple washes. Problem?
Rather than use a leaf blower or buffing the spray wax in, I like to mist the car with spray wax while it's still wet and then dry it with only the most minimal towel pressure, which simultaneously thins out the wax to the point where it dries and the streaks evaporate.
You are 110% correct in your philosophy
Ive had the same thought process on this. But you just set it in stone by making this video. Thank you. We are intelligent species.
Welp....the "chemicals" I use to wash the Big Rigs are what is called a Two-step..... apply a low pH acid followed by a high pH soap.... this two-step breaks the magnetic bond of the road film from the surface without using a brush and if you add hot water on the rinsing, boy o boy....and these chemicals can be used on passenger cars as well....However, you need the right equipment to apply all this stuff.... downstream injectors etc etc....... also there may be at times when you might have to break out the brush......Chemistry Chemistry
i love this comment:)
Mario montes I recently got with chem-x and they offer this two step process. It has been one of the best processes I’ve ever used. I do have two bottles so I put the chemical undiluted in the foamer. I will not touch the paint unless I do a 100 rag wash. I just blow the water off and go about my day. Mainly I only do this when it’s cold and I want to get the salt off.
Mario montes your knowledge is OUR key
I assume the high pH soap is brown?
@@terrysmith1973 what's the chem you use ?
My theory is that the film you are talking about sits on top of the sealant and is quite easy to remove with most normal soaps. Even tar etc that is visible is usually easy to get of with just a mitt and normal car wash as long as it has not dried too long and/or is on a surface with no protection.
my thoughts as well
Mee couldn't have said it better myself!
The issue i think is that once there is some missed spots of traffic film for reasons such as (it is older and baked on, or not using the wash mitt aggressively enough on the lower third of the car for fear of scratching it) then new sealant or wax is used trapping it and bonding it to the clear coat where it can degrade the clear coat over time hidden, protected with a layer of wax on top of it even when weekly washes are done because the soap is ph neutral and cant get through the waxes to the layer of junk behind the clear coat.
Imho, it's pretty simple tbh.. As the video title said, The key word is 'regular maintenance'.
If you're doing it for instance once a week at least, your ph netral soap will degrade all those oily films, 'layer by layer' each time you do a car wash. And if there is a layer of wax underneath, it's even better. That's why everytime we wash the car, we'll notice the old stubborn dirt or anything on the paint will break drown more and more.
Just like you said, don't overthink it.. :D
Thanks Scott! I bought a new black car 4yrs ago and Ive seen every scenario Scott describes. I had to become a detective of sorts to finally come to the conclusion that I only needed to follow a few rules to keep from killing myself when it comes to keeping my daily looking great. Where I live we have a good water supply but are hammered by industry and fallout. The crazy things I witnessed on my clearcoat while trying to maintain/save the best sealants with ph neutral washes was a frustrating experience. Now--2 bucket wash w/ Purple Power,-electric blower and a good spray sealant once a week on a properly machined polished clearcoat is money in the bank. Cutting the hype!
The more you talk about it the more I get it. I'm digging your philosophy. Cool stuff. 👍
Hi Scott, I'm a detailer from Portugal. I understand your point to of view but.....
What is the answer for you?
If this is wrong then how should a proper maintenance wash be conducted?
Scott, you remind me of the Amsoil 25,000 oil change. I had never heard of Amsoil until 2 years ago. It's an oil that doesn't need to be changed until you hit 25,000 miles. Wait. What?! When you hear that you can buy an oil that lasts 25,000 miles and you don't need to change it until you hit that number and will not harm your car is mind blowing! Most people can't let go of that magic 3,000 mile oil change interval in their head and way of thinking. They think if you don't change your oil at 3,000 miles that you're a bad man, a very bad man.
You Scott, like Amsoil , have destroyed my conventional thinking that washing my car with a ph neutral soap is doing my dirty car some good. But nooooo! You have destroyed my brain by saying that washing my car with a ph neutral soap is crazy and not doing any good. Wait. What!? And then you say I have to use 30 grit sandpaper to remove all the contaminants. Ok you didn't say that. But you might as well have said that! J/K
But you must use a ph of 10ish to get the grime. It seems to make sense. But how do we reconcile the cognitive dissonance within our thinking that says, Hey my car is dirty I need to clean it. But when you clean it, you're not actually cleaning it. Whoa! Boom! Brain meltdown! Break out the Belt Sander and the 30 grit sandpaper. I'll get that traffic film if it kills the little turtles in my wax! LOL Love your videos Scott. Keep up the good, no, great work.
Its like the final episode of the sopranos it dosnt give you an answer
Watching his videos reminds me of the popular Monty Python refrain "GET ON WITH IT!"
@@matthewwebb2498 exactly what I thought .
You are absolutely right. What I do is rinse the vehicle using pressure washer to remove loose debris. Then I spray TFR and let it dwell on the body to dissolve the traffic film. Then I'll wash it off and use snow foam. Followed by a mitt wash using strong cleaner. Then blow dry using leaf blower. Finish off with a spray wax to protect the paint.
I do not think so. you said it. That you are just washing, you are not removing the contaminants from the paint. Well, that's what I think. I'm confused now. And I'm just going into the detailing business. I think I have to read more my products and do more insights on the products I am using.
My old banger still looks good for her age. I still love driving her she shines in the Spanish sun! Love you videos keep em coming!
If I understand correctly.. Wax does not protect the paint. The clearcoat does.
Wax give you the shine or "POP" your looking for.
For paint enhancements.
If the car is really dirty, all steps are required. Wash (w/ph soap), clay, apply favorite sealer.
If car not very dirty.
Wash (w/ph neutral soap), then dry.
When it's time to reapply sealer.
Wash (w/ph soap), apply sealer. No need to clay if you've been keeping the car and not let bonded contaminates (road film) build up.
Scott, please correct me if I'm working. Just a newbie here trying to understand
Purple Power Vehicle and Boat Wash then apply a good spray wax. Car will always be 100% decontaminated and 100% waxed. Megs Ultimate Quick Wax (black bottle, not red bottle) Turtle Wax Ice (spray) or Megs Ultimate Fast Finish are the best.
The best thing about a white, silver, yellow or other light colored car finishes is that they look clean when washed with minimal additional work. Wax shine, swirl-marks, etc. don't show up as much as they do on darker colored cars so just a quick wash is usually all you need. A white or light colored car, just washed, looks great without any extra steps. I've had great success with the Meguires Ultimate Car Wash & Wax (yellow liquidated) then a quick spray wax-n-buff with the Meguires Ultimate Spray Wax every three or four washes to heighten the gloss. This works very well for my dark colored cars (Navy blue metallic and Red pearl metallic finishes) BTW, hope you escaped hurricane Harvey. Thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected for a fast recovery.
Can't argue with your points...agreed. But I'd say the term "maintenance wash" means (to me at least) simply a basic weekly wash just to get typical daily driving crud off the car. I pressure rinse, foam, rinse, contact wash, distilled rinse and air dry. And a detail spray wax every couple months. I don't do strips or decon really at all, and my cars look great for years. Of course, I live in Florida so dont have nasty winters/infrequent washes due to cold weather either. Oh, and I use the Worx pressure washer to do my final distilled rinse. Love it!
I have applied a sealant on my brand new car when I bought it last may, and for the whole summertime I have washed my car with soap and water only once and then used nothing else but a waterless wash product. I had absolutely no problem removing tar from the paint when there was some of it quite easily, therefore it proves that as long as you have applied a sealant, using any kind of soap will remove traffic film. That's my humble opinion.
Looking forward to your view on what "Joe blow" car owner who washes his car here and there should do to wash the car. I really enjoy your videos thanks for putting in the time to make them.
pH neutral soap will not remove the road film, so you use stronger soap that removes the road film but also the wax, now you have to reapply the layer of wax that you just removed.
I understand all of that. We have this problem with fine leather and harness in our stable. For cars, the intention is to preserve the paint. For us, it is to preserve the leather because tack is extremely expensive but can last for decades if properly cared for. Which means we have to get the salt off the leather after every use and not apply leather dressing unless the leather is fully cleaned of salt, horse hair, dust, dirt etc. Otherwise, we will only seal the salt between the top of the leather and the bottom of the dressing. Not putting wax on top of road film makes sense to me. I wash the car with ph neutral soap to preserve the wax which is on it. I don't have a big blower to dry it so I dry it by hand with clean micro fibre towels. I do no more in regular washings except have the undercarriage fully power washed to get any road salt off at the end of winter. Three times a year, the car goes to the professional detail shop to be washed and waxed and all surfaces which require it, applied with preservatives against sun damage. The car lives in a garage when not in use. It's now seven years old and looks like it did the day it was taken out of the show room. What am I doing which I shouldn't do and what should I be doing that I'm not doing. I'd bring it to Dallas but I'm near Philly and that's a long way to drive to get an assessment! How do I know as a consumer that what the detail people do to it is what's right to protect the life of the paint and the seal coat? The advice in the videos is great!
Got me. Am just an ole practically lame gal on fixed sm income. who just bought a used 2004 Dodge Dakota Quad with a beautiful color paint job. Trying to figure out how to maintain it's very nice condition in and out, given my limitations. REALLY ENJOY all your videos, Scott. Seem like an ace of a good man. Blessings.
Hi Scott, I am confused now - but my reasoning is you don't have to understand everything, just use the recommended stuff follow the steps and it'll turn out fine. You can tell I'm not a detailer cant you, just want my car to look great. Keep the videos coming I love you and can't wait for next one.
Your soo right.
Uk bilt hamber snow foam has powerful sufactent.
Big respect from the U.K. my good man
I would love for you to clay that hood and find out just how much road grime is left after the ph neutral soap.
I feel like I've got an idea of where you are going with this and it seems to be the only logical answer for people who are going to clean their cars on a weekly basis anyways. Wash the car with a foaming degreaser, get rid of old wax and new road film, rinse, blow dry, and spray wax. Spray wax isn't as durable or "protective" as traditional waxes/sealants but you are washing your car (and typically finishing with a spray wax) anyways... badda bing, less steps, more clean, still protected, it's a realistic approach. Still feels wrong to not wax the car and treat that as your top surface (vice clear coat+ spray wax) but we all know wax doesn't really protect anything, it's all about looks, and if you can get a good, durable shine for 1 week+ and can't tell a different between spray and (brand name product) then why bother going through the accepted status quo process with all it's logical errors?
In his other video I think his concerns of protection were related to UV light damage. I still think wax offers protection - in my case it helps prevent water spots by beading water which falls off the car better. It also makes things less likely to stick to the car, and it makes stuff come off easier - I would call that protection. Sealants probably also help prevent scratching of the real clear coat when using a wash mitt.
Whiskey Gunner- You talk as if you know, but I'm not so sure about this statement: "we all know wax doesn't really protect anything" My understanding is that paint protection, whether it's natural or synthetic is there to protect the paint. Is this wrong? What will help keep stuff from sticking to the paint? What will help control penetration of salt air by the ocean?
If paint protectants don't actually do anything but make it shine, then where can we find a true paint protectant?
Scott , we listen to you bud. As large as the viewer base is that you have , you give us phenomial information. You will always have more positive feedback than negative. There will always be those ' haters ' no matter what you do. It's just life man. Keep the spirits high . Keep up the good work because this video brought alot of attention to how things are done. I know I won't be the only one. I watch all of the uploads so keep them coming !
What's your update after all these years, do you still feel this is the best way to clean the car by using a pH10 soap?
So, if you clayed it 2 weeks prior and you're doing a maintenance wash, would you use a soap that would remove the road grime then do the spray wax? If you clayed it 2 weeks ago, would it really need it again? Or, would you just use a the soap and not worry about the wax?
I'm just a car owner who likes to be informed and loves your videos.
What an amazing perspective !...most of us car buffs never think of this...especially about applying spray wax after the wash... was know I’ve done it many times...
Great video but whats the solution? To use a soap with degreaser in it which removes the contaminates but also removes your sealant or wax?
When I started using high quality soaps, this same thing crossed my mind. I was thinking what's the point of this shit if it's not really cleaning the surface?
I got your point Scott! Get your soap out in the market, and thanks, I’ve learned so much from you. My neighbors bust on me for having the absolute shiniest vehicle in our community. Hell, I tell my wife to put her sun glasses on at night when she’s near our car. Keep up the great videos!!
I know what you are getting at, and for me a maintenance wash is just that, a quick and fast get-it-done asap weekly wash. I tend to rush my personal cars on the weekends sometimes when I'm strapped for time. Just get the base level of grime off, and spray some quick wax, dry, and be done with it. What you are talking about here is doing something like a pre-spray with an apc or some mild alkaline cleaner to strip grease and oil on a weekly basis. Which as we know will quickly diminish your lsp/wax/sealant. Personally I feel it's worth the trade off to keep a bit of longevity with my sealant instead so I only have to reapply it every few months. I don't have time to reapply weekly or bi-weekly.
Should of used a ph7-10 to remove road film. And then use a quick sealant to seal the paint again. Meguiars ultimate finish is what I use
Scott, always watch your videos & love your point of view. I have a question, are maintenance washes worth it when doing mobile detailing? I find these type of customers expecting more.
Hopefully this is followed up with a proper maintenance wash video? Because yeah.. I do exactly what you did in the start of this video. Its just not practical to claybar and polish the car every time and start with a fresh base... From your recent soap video I'm thinking the best practice is a non-neutral pH soap to wash and a spray on sealant for after? I still think a spray on product helps prevent fallout from sticking to the car.
Scott great video that's exactly what I do as well. So my question is cause I was trying to see if you made a video on how to properly clean the car. Do you put a ounce of super clean into a bucket of water and soap to wash it? I have Sean lots of time oily film as I clean a car in the past my self.
On your own vehicles, do you use purple power every wash? For example each week? Kind of defeats the purpose of using the Megs UFF if you're taking it off every week if that's how you're using it. Just curious if you do this every once in a while on your vehicles or do it every week.
Scott you opened some eyes. Keep going you are totally right. Make sense to me. Cheers
Ok so what do you suggest we clean our cars with. Meguires degreasers. APC? Please make a video on what you think is the proper solution. And let’s see the results. The difference should be noticeable right? Anyway great video. Keep up the great work
This video is 100% facts.
The truth of auto detailing industry.
Very toxic. Keep doing what you do boss.
Hope people that has common sense and a brain to take notes.
Scott, I didn't see any beading on the windshield.....just saying Great video, I see where you were going with it and it makes a lot of sense. Knowing that most anyone watching this video uses some sort of paint protection as an LSP whether its a spray wax or a spray sealant for lubrication while drying and extra protection why not use a soap that is a little more aggressive to break down the oils from the road.
I never thought of that , thanks for pointing this out. I do just what u did. Never look at it that way. Thanks for this. Now what's the correct way. Is there a video?
Then what is the best way for a maintenance wash?
Old video, but hey, I'll comment on it.
Strip wash and spray sealant or spray wax throughout the year, but when winter come and might not wash your car for 2 months, this is when a higher quality paint sealant would be more benificial? You know, those ones that say they last 6+ months. Apply quality sealant on your last wash to add a layer of protection, then when weather gets better, fully strip it all off and go back to strip washing and spray sealant.
Sound about right?
I have watched your video regarding traffic film. So from your videos wat i hv understood is , " always do a strip wash even if sealant is there, and redo the sealent after every strip wash. Doesnt matter how durable ur sealent is . So better buy a cheap sealant which lasts just till your next wash. " Am i right Scott ?
I had never thought about traffic film. Got to watch some more of your videos.
Ok awesome I totally believe (understand) you Scott, what you are saying does make sense.
I agree with you, but what that traffic film can cause to the clear coat and the paint of the car?
Thanks for the great videos. You have a valid theory but the challenge is that most people don't have the time to do a complete wash, clay, and wax/seal every other weekend. If you can show how to do this quickly but correctly I think you'll win over the masses.
coming soon:)
MurphTX Exactly the point. Hopefully Scott has the answer of how to rid the grime and leave the wax/sealant. Also, I live in the north. I'm using a car wash for months of the year but when I do get to wash my car, I want to do it right.
Going back to washing snd detailing my own cars since the CA drought is over. Looking forward to more videos on maintenance washing before I buy the Purple Power Vehicle and Boat product. But it looks good so far.
Enough already show the right way Scott!
i will..i just wanted to open some minds and get people thinking...hell i had to do it on my own and figure it out:)...i am also in the process of getting a patent on a soap i created..if you can be patient i will share all in due time but i understand your point of view:)...i love you on the channel and thanks for always being so kind with your comments...much love John
I have to wait and wait and wait for the answers. I don't have all day.
Dennis Menace start by using Purple Power RV & Boat Wash. it’ll strip a wax or sealant off if you use enough of it. Dry with a leaf blower so your not touching your unsealed panels add a sealant too it and presto! Give it time to cure and you can add another layer.
Scott, thank you for clearing that up! How then do you maintenance clean your clients cars
Scott, one question will meguiars wash plus soap work the same as purple power vehicle and boat soap? Keep them videos coming much love from San Diego CA
One is ph neutral one is not cant be the same
That is and was GREAT, except for one thing. You didn't tell us what was the right way and is there a Ph [right] soap to use that will break the contaminant bond without touch? Meguiar's Wash Plus seems to remove EVERYTHING, but you have to touch it and re-seal and wax. So is there a RIGHT way available - other than the two step process with special equipment as mentioned by the guy cleaning big rigs in the comment below?
An interesting conundrum! I think I’ll wash my car with meguiars wash + to start fresh, wax the car, and then just do “ph balanced” washes in between the full waxes even if it leaves the traffic film... until I’m ready for another full fresh start wash/wax.
Feels like you need a phd to wash a car nowadays! Thanks for the vids!
From one Scott to another, great video and keep up the good work.
I've learned a lot from you my friend.
Mr. Scott I used to detail cars back in the 80s in the early 90s and then I had a health problem and so I had to quit so I'm trying to get back into it so I'm watching your videos they help me out I like to send you a donated van show you what it looks like I've watched everything else you have I will continue to watch you and no one else
Maybe the answer you want us to use is Paint Prep. Because even APC Doesnt work as good as it should after washing and clay. Greatings from Venezuela Country.
I actually only apply sealant and wax evry 6 months when I do a full exterior detail. During maintenance washes I just wash with soap with wax in it and thats it.
The only part of my car that I fully detail every maintenance wash are my wheels.
I don't even use soap, just the wash mitt and water. I dry off and use detail spray in between washes, my cars look great.
Lobo 176 hello swirls
Lobo 176 LMAO
After washing, clay bar or surface prep mitt. Then you can use the spray wax!
So... every maintenance wash
Rinse
Foam pre wash ( to remove surface loose contaminants) touchless
Rinse
Purple power car and boat wash (with mit?)
Rinse
Foam with ph soap ( just as added step ) and extra rinse just to help potentially neutralize the pH of purple Power Power car and boat wash Touchless
Blow Dry
then apply fresh paint sealant.
Is there a certain ph level that will remove road film but not a wax? Or are you getting at that we should just strip and rewax every other week when I clean my car?
A maintenance wash is just simply a maintenance wash and not a full blown detail. That’s why you don’t try to get every single thing on one you leave it for the other. By logical extension we would be detailing our cars every time we go to wash them because there is some thing we left out.
And there's 10 minutes of my life I'm never getting back. Thanks.
Scott great video how many ozs to a gallon of water with the purple power vehicle wash do you use Thanks
Hi buddy, have you ever used Nu- Finish ??, some really helpful tips, I cleaned my works mini bus windows yesterday after washing all the minibus and the other drivers couldn’t believe how much time I spent on the windows alone but they were shocked at how clean the glass is, one driver thought the windows were down, keep the tips and hints coming
When you're told the sky is red and someone tells you the sky is really blue it's not easy to change.
What dilution would you use? How much Purple power vehicle and boat cleaner to how much water?
Scott stay safe down there during the hurricane
How often should you remove traffic film?
What should a maintenance wash look like
Should I get my car detailed, to get it fully cleaned?
This is mind boggling.
This video is almost philosophical, to protect the sealant or kill everything with soap. I know this is two years old but to me the answer would be using a sealant that protects the paint from the road film and every six months use a soap that completely decontaminates the car, then reapply the products. But the average driver doesn't really think about this, hell even using a wax is something that maybe 20% of car owners do.
Vous connaissez votre job , cela se sent...., voila pourquoi j'aime vos tutos. Bravo Scott you're not wrong . Ph neutral soap don't remove trafic film.totally agree with you . Have a good day from Martinique carribean 10.54pm 18 mai2024
What about using megs apc as a foaming agent? Let it dwell.. Rinse... Then touch wash with "normal" car soap?
Is there any way to talk to you about how to price a maintenance plan thanks keep up the good work
Is a high pH soap REALLY safe for the clear coat in the long run. Wouldn't it strip too much of the natural oil's out of the clear coat when you use it regularly. Hence why MOST/ALL auto detailing manufacturer's sell pH neutral to protect themselves from possible long term damage from selling stronger products. I love efficiency and easier solutions but just want to make sure your theory is founded in fact, before people accidentally ruin the-clearcoat, plastics, rubbers etc.. thinking they are using a better method.
hi scott...what particular wax did you use on your car? after you apply menzerna power lock sealant, thanks
I'm with you strip it back re apply! So many quick and easy products to do it wash plus then fast finish I like to think l got most of it!
How would you price maintance washes??? Or how do those packages work? I'm trying to offer it for my detailing business and thanks for all the great content we love you Scott
erik estrada I’m currently struggling with determining what pricing and services for maintenance washes. I was wondering what you decided for your packages?
I have CQuartz Finest on my F-150 what do you recommend as a maintenance wash soap? I use Car Pro Reset for each wash.
Hey Scott, do you think its ok to wash car twice a week?
I don’t know! Then why use a wax or seal the paint? Is it not the job of a wax and sealer to protect the paint and create a slick Service on the car paint so that the traffic film slides off and won’t stick? Water beads so why not oil and other fallout?
Does the sealant make the traffic film not adhere to the paint? So when we maintenance wash doesn't the traffic film fall off cause the sealant is slick and a coating ontop of the paint? Or no?
Also to add to this i weekly wash my vehicle with purple Power vehicle and boat wash and I lose my wax and sealing and just reapply Meguiar's Ultimate fast finish every week as recommended by Scott.
what is a good drying agent for a paint sealed car or waxed car?
So if I do a maintenance wash every week, what should I use?
When I was a kid, there was a pill that you chewed after brushing your teeth. It would stain the remaining tarter on your teeth so you could see where you didn’t brush completely. Too bad there’s not a similar product to reveal the invisible contaminants on a car.
I think the answer is to accept that having a spotless clean car is cyclic, does it need to be at the top detail every day of the week?... for me its no... its kind of like going to the barber, do I go once a week ? No . I go when I feel the need or start to look shaggy and yes it gives you a boost to have it done much the same as having a really clean car.
What ido is with our latest,/best car is do the full detail and when it gets dirty go to the car wash - spray it with bug soap/cleaner from the machine and wheels as well, then power rinse it , if the water beads there is still sealant, I use the wax spray from the machine the rinseless wash. I do not touch the car with any wash mit brush etc only clean using jets at the carwash, it takes about 15min and max 10 euro giving the the wheels a double go over because they are hard to get clean but I suppose using a brush on the rims would be good.
Yes i suppose the traffic film may not be removed but at least it is not rubbed into the paint, top coat.... all the layers of contamination would then be removed when the car is fully detailed.
Good point Scott.
You talked about all the wrong.. Well then what is the correct way?
Here in Boston due to the lack of climate change (it is cold here) for 5 months of the year a maintenance wash = the local car wash
You have a nice Lexus, I've always liked that one. Is it your car or a client's car?
Boi you better be ready for hurricane Harvey
i don't think dallas is getting hit all that bad...but thanks
Would Meguiar's Wash Plus clean road film? You recommended it as a strip type wash a couple of months ago and I have used for that purpose with good result.
What do you suggest I do with my car soap? What the name of soap you use? The non ph balance one
Scott do you know for a fact that the oils in traffic film/road grime is the same type of oil that can be found in wax and sealants?
I dint think so
now your just being silly...let me ask you a question..if you had ky jelly on your hands and you wanted to remove it, would you reach for more ky jelly and water to remove the ky jelly you already have on your hands?...the car soap is highly lubricated (everyone loves that plus all that suds)you also apply very little pressure with your favorite soft and plush wash mitt and you gently glide across the panel...what could you possibly remove from the panel BUT loose dirt and nothing else:)..why don't you ask the wax or sealant company for the proof that their said wax has "POLYMERS" that actually protect your paint from uv light and if you wanted maximum protection from uv light how often should you apply their product?...what if the waxes we are all buying are just jars of oil that give you water beading and can fill the panel to give you a glossy and shiny finish?...lets look at the product called meguiars ultimate fast finish, on the can and on the outside of the box it will tell you the said called wax will last 100 car washes...this is a huge hint by them..if your only using a ph neutral soap and water why would it only last 100 washes?..why would meguiars even mention the wash cycle at all?....remember meguirs knows you will be using a ph neutral soap and that you will be using a soft wash mitt and applying very little pressure:)...what is actually removing the wax after 100 washes?...i would love your thoughts
so basically looking for a soap that can remove traffic film but not removing the sealant/wax. maybe dilute the purple power to a degree so it wont move wax but traffic film???
After wash with pH shampoo simply use Quick Detailer With good Cleaning abilities contains no protection you already use Megs Ultimate Fast Finish then you need to use UQD .